3dtouch Bfb3000 Hot End Replacement Guide

8/11/2019 3dtouch Bfb3000 Hot End Replacement Guide

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Hot-End Replacement Guide

BFB 3000 plus & 3D Touch

Pre assembly checks:

Testing the hot-end before fitting:

Check the heating cable:

Set the multi-meter to read resistance (2000 ohms)

Test the two outside pins (grey wires)

The value should read 4.5 to 5.5 ohms

Check the temperature thermistor:

Set the multi-meter to read resistance (2M ohms)

Test the inner two pins (violet wires)

The value should read approximately 200 to 300 k ohms

If at any stage the value is zero or OL, please do not continue and contact

technical support.


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The X-carriage:

Removal of the motor belts and motors:

Remove any filament that may be in the nozzles by heating and pulling

Loosen the 8 screws circled in red and gently push the motors toward

the extruder bodies to loosen the belts


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Unclip the extruder power loom chain by using a thin flat blade screw

driver between the top fins and pull the PTFE feed tubes back trying not

to bend them too much

Ease the wires from the acrylic plate


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Disconnect the motor wires

Ease the belts over each of the large pulleys as shown, gently turning

the small pulley will help ease the belt free

With the belts removed. Supporting the motor assembly, unscrew

the 9 screws that are highlighted below.


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Remove the motor plate and put to one side

Disconnect the remaining wires from under this plate and remove

the clear loom support brace, put this somewhere safe and secure

the wires away from the head assembly.


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Removing the extruders:

Unscrew the 4 screws from the front of the acrylic top plate

Unscrew the 3 screws from the rear of the acrylic plate, 2 screws

also hold the small pcb.


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The final 3 screws for the extruders are underneath the head

assembly

Lift the extruders off of the carriage and move the blue wire so

that it passes through one of the larger holes next to it.


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Removing the Z limit sensor:

Using the 2.5mm ball driver or Allen key as shown and turn the

grub screw counter clockwise to loosen.

Caution: If this screw is accidentally tightened it will permanently

damage the sensor.

Gently pull the z sensor out and store safely


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Loosen these screws using an Allen key and not the supplied ball

driver. Unscrew the 5 screws highlighted in red and loosen the M5

belt tensioning bolt highlighted in green.

Remove the belt from the belt clamp, if you wish to remove the

heads to work away from the printer, follow the same step aboveon the opposite M5 bolt

Loosen the grub screw holding the belt


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Unscrew the 3 screws which relate to the hot-end you are changing

Flip the steel plate over, push the centre pin on the plastic rivet and

push out as shown in the photo. However if you have new rivets you can

use these when refitting the pcb.


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Refitting the hot-end:

Take your new hot-end; Push the peek tube firmly into the aluminium

nozzle, slide in the PTFE tube, and slide on the aluminium sleeve and

mdf spacer. Screw into place with the M3 x 16 screws removed from

your existing hot-end

Caution: Try not to bend or flex the wires too much as this can damage

the hot-end.


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Replace the hot-end pcb and lock into place with the plastic push fit

rivets.

Note: Test all hot-end resistances before refitting extruder plate.

To refit the x carriage, follow the manual in reverse.

Pay close attention when refitting the acrylic parts as over tightening

will crack them!

When refitting the z-sensor, STOP soon as you feel light resistance

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE GRUB SCREW


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Prepare the filament:

Shape the filament to a rounded point, feed it through the feed

tubes, tighten the pressure bearings and purge the nozzle

Purging the nozzle:

Move the bed down away from the heads.

Set the print temperature to 200 for PLA and 260 for ABS

Set the RPM at 45, once temperature is reached the motor will start

Leave the nozzles to purge for approximately 5 minutes

Congratulations you have completed the hot-end change


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Happy printing

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3dtouch Bfb3000 Hot End Replacement Guide