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HIDEAWAY OF THE YEAR ................................. 1

UNITED STATES .............................................. 2

CARIBBEAN/BAHAMAS .................................. 4

SOUTH AMERICA ............................................ 4

EUROPE ......................................................... 6

AFRICA .......................................................... 8

SOUTH PACIFIC .............................................. 8

AUSTRALASIA ................................................ 9

ASIA ............................................................ 10

Plus:

RESTAURANTS OF THE YEAR .......................... 3

SPECIAL RECOGNITION .................................. 5

BEST CRUISE, DRIVING TOUR & ITINERARY .... 11

INDELIBLE MEMORIES OF 2015 ..................... 12

Find more at andrewharper.com/grand-awards.

Each year, we have the pleasure of recalling

our travel experiences over the past 12 months

and singling out a number of particularly

memorable hotels and resorts. To be

considered for our annual awards, properties

must be relatively small in size, possess

strong individual personalities, offer relaxing

atmospheres and demonstrate a consistent

devotion to personal service.

T R AV E L I NG T H E WOR L D I N SE A RCH OF T RU LY E NCH A N T I NG P L ACE S

JANUARY 2016 | Our 37th Year andrewharper.com

Song Saa, CambodiaHIDEAWAY OF THE YEAR

2016 GRANDAWARDS

A 35-minute speedboat ride from

Sihanoukville on Cambodia’s west

coast, Song Saa lies in the pristine

Koh Rong archipelago. Its name means “The

Sweethearts” in Khmer, a reference to the

paired islets, Koh Ouen and Koh Bong, that

comprise the resort. The exquisite beauty

of the setting inspired an Australian couple

who were sailing through the islands to

construct the hotel. Their brainchild, with

its 27 villas, opened in early 2012.

A member of staff escorted us along

a sand pathway to our 2,475-square-foot

Ocean View Villa. With soaring ceilings, its

main room displayed a skillful combination

of woods and fabrics. Local art helped to

create an air of authenticity. My favorite

example was a framed aggregation of faded

planks salvaged from area fishing boats.

A few steps beyond the large four-poster

bed, a sunken seating area opened onto a

wooden deck and a private infinity pool.

There are two other villa categories at

Song Saa: 11 Jungle Villas nestled on the

central hill afford views of the surrounding

islands and waters, while eight Overwater

Villas enable guests to step directly into

the ocean from private balconies.

Although in-villa dining is an attrac-

tive option, we loved going to Vista, set just

off the shoreline, where we enjoyed dishes

such as spring rolls with local crab and

fresh vegetables, and marinated chicken

breast with a mint-cream sauce and cous-

cous. The culinary highlight of our stay,

however, was a Khmer feast, which included

superb beef lok lak, stir-fried chicken with

ginger and spring onion, and prawns with

Kampot pepper.

Although there is no centralized spa

facility, outdoor treatment salas are scat-

tered through the rain forest and along the

ocean shore. Yoga and meditation are also

available. Activities include kayaking, rain

forest tours guided by a member of the

resort’s Conservation Team and snorkeling

trips through nearby coral gardens led by

a marine biologist. The atmosphere of Song

Saa is blissfully relaxing and otherworldly.

This is a truly exceptional hideaway.

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2 HIDEAWAY REPORT JANUARY 2016

Sun Valley LodgeSUN VALLEY, ID

Sun Valley Lodge opened in 1936

as America’s first destination ski

resort. Until recently, however,

the accommodations, especially the

baths, were small and outdated, and

the service could be unpredictable.

The property reopened in June after a

10-month renovation. The lobby is now

much lighter than before, with doors that

lead to terraces overlooking the ice skat-

ing rink. The Duchin Lounge, formerly a

dark albeit cozy bar, is open to the lobby

and has an outdoor seating area. And

Gretchen’s restaurant is more formal and

has expanded onto a terrace.

Our Lodge King Suite proved to

be extremely spacious, with a refined

contemporary aesthetic. A wood wall

with a see-through gas fireplace partially

separated a sitting area and a spacious

bedroom. A custom maple writing desk

caught our eye, as did a kitchenette with

mini-refrigerator and Keurig machine.

The most desirable rooms are the five

Lodge Terrace Suites and the five Lodge

Celebrity Suites. These are more spacious

and have more clearly defined separations

between sitting and sleeping areas. The

new-look lodge now has 94 rooms, down

from the original 148, allowing for vastly

superior accommodations.

The famous circular heated pool has

been augmented by a hot tub, a fire pit,

an expanded heated deck and a poolside

café. Nearby, there is now a magnificent

20,000-square-foot spa with a large

fitness area. The reinvented Sun Valley

Lodge conforms to 21st-century stan-

dards of luxury, but still retains a historic

atmosphere and a feeling of glamour.

Topping Rose HouseLONG ISLAND, NY

At their best, the Hamptons still

exemplify the classic American

seaside summer. Personally,

I prefer to vacation on more peaceful

shores, yet I always find myself happy

to be back. Upscale properties tend to be

concentrated in East Hampton. However,

the new Topping Rose House is located in

nearby Bridgehampton, a pretty village

that is less frenetic than its sister towns.

The inn’s most prominent feature is the

white Greek Revival house built in 1842.

During the renovation a small wing in

a similar style was added. And beyond

a restored barn stand four contempo-

rary “cottages.” We opted for one of the

cottages, which have the advantages of

larger baths and outdoor spaces.

Dinner and breakfast were just a

short stroll away in the main house. The

dining room is a lovely, soothing space

with sedate décor; the menu emphasizes

farm-to-table cooking. Active outdoor

pursuits are readily available. Bicycles

are on hand, and complimentary shuttles

can whisk you to one of the local beaches.

The able front desk staff, as accommo-

dating and pleasant as everyone else we

encountered during our stay, can arrange

for fishing, golf, tennis, horseback riding

and water sports. After a day in the sun,

you might want a facial or a massage,

which feature in the treatment programs

at the small but alluring spa. Topping

Rose House proved a delightful getaway

from the hubbub of Manhattan. How nice

it was to stroll a sunny beach and dip into

the refreshingly brisk Atlantic, knowing

that a hot shower and a fine meal awaited

us back at the inn.

UNITED STATES

Casa PalmeroPEBBLE BEACH, CA

The Pebble Beach Company was

founded in 1919 and today owns

three sumptuous resorts. The

Lodge at Pebble Beach offers glorious

views of Carmel Bay and the 18th green of

the famed Pebble Beach Golf Links. Four

miles to the north, The Inn at Spanish Bay

is set among the Monterey pine groves

of the Del Monte Forest and is fronted

by Scottish-inspired golf links and the

Pacific Ocean.

On my recent trip, however, I opted to

stay at the third property, Casa Palmero

at Pebble Beach, a 24-room hideaway

within a former mansion. Situated next

to The Spa at Pebble Beach and overlook-

ing the first and second fairways of the

Golf Links, its cinnabar tile roofs and

ocher-colored walls give the impression

of a grand Mediterranean villa, as do the

trellised walkways, shaded courtyards

and gurgling fountains.

Inside, we discovered an atmospheric

living room, a billiard room and a library

with rustic beams, hardwood f loors

and well-chosen artwork. Most of the

property’s rooms boast fireplaces and

private patios with Jacuzzis, while the

lavish baths feature radiant-heat floors.

Cocktails are offered in a cozy bar each

evening as part of the regular room rate,

and there is a secluded swimming pool.

Breakfast is served in the guest rooms,

but other meals must be taken elsewhere,

though given the variety of options, this is

scarcely an inconvenience. Overall, Casa

Palmero will appeal to those who prefer

smaller hotels and who are in search of

calm and seclusion. I cannot recommend

this lovely place too highly.

Casa Palmero / © SCOTT CAMPBELL Sun Valley Lodge / COURTESY SUN VALLEY RESORTS © KEVIN SYMS Topping Rose House / © MICHAEL WEBER

JANUARY 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 3

Baccarat HotelNEW YORK CITY, NY

The Baccarat Hotel opened in March,

mid-block on West 53rd Street

directly opposite the Museum of

Modern Art. Skidmore, Owings & Merrill

designed the 50-story tower, the first 12

floors of which contain the hotel’s 114

rooms and suites. Leaving the elevator on

the second floor and entering the Grand

Salon, we were suddenly immersed in

light. Massive chandeliers that might

be out of scale elsewhere here seem

in perfect proportion. Adding to the

impressive room’s appeal is the subtle

blend of materials: parquet floors; dark

wood paneling; touches of silver leaf;

mica-flecked ceilings; and marble and

mirror wall treatments. Large glass doors

lead into the bar, a contrasting aesthetic

realm where wood dominates. The bar

counter is a grand 60 feet, and an outdoor

terrace overlooking MoMA greatly adds

to the allure.

In our suite, floor-to-ceiling windows

again admitted a luxurious flood of light.

Both the living room and the bedroom

were spacious — especially by New York

standards — and filled with graceful

custom-made furniture. An armoire

opened to reveal a red-lacquer cabinet

with an array of Baccarat bar ware and

nibbles from Fauchon. The bath is indul-

gent, right down to the crystal glasses

by the double vanities. The restaurant

attached to the hotel, Chevalier, is named

in tribute to the longtime creative direc-

tor of Baccarat, Georges Chevalier. Other

amenities at the hotel include Spa de

La Mer, with a 50-foot pool. Overall, the

Baccarat makes a notable addition to New

York’s roster of hotels.

RESTAURANTS OF THE YEAR(U.S. FORMAL) Gabriel Kreuther I have long admired the talents of Gabriel Kreuther,

the opening chef at The Modern, Danny Meyer’s restaurant in New York’s Museum of

Modern Art. Earlier this year, Kreuther debuted on East 42nd Street, across from

Bryant Park, in his new place — Gabriel Kreuther. He has lost nothing in the move.

Highlights on the menu include a starter of nori-flavored pasta with Pacific red

crab, a purée of smoked parsnip and dulse seaweed, and a main of spice-rubbed

Mangalica pork (an old Hungarian breed enjoying new vogue) with roasted fennel

and pear. The inviting front bar area serves food rooted in Kreuther’s native Alsace.

(U.S. INFORMAL) 42 grams Now with two Michelin stars, this BYOB restaurant on

Chicago’s North Side started “underground” in chef Jake Bickelhaupt’s apartment.

It still feels like a dinner party, with Bickelhaupt’s wife acting as hostess and master

of ceremonies. Almost all 13 courses on the menu dazzled. A wildly creative dish of

asparagus gelato, salt-cured tuna, sea buckthorn cream, wood sorrel and apricot

kernels created fireworks of flavor, as did courses such as triple-seared Miyazaki

wagyu beef with baby bok choy, pickled plums and rich crumbs of dehydrated beef

marrow. This restaurant is well worth the taxi ride. Reserve far in advance.

(INT’L FORMAL) Jean-François Piège / Le Grand Restaurant When this intimate,

restaurant opened in September on a quiet Parisian side street, 45-year-old chef

Jean-François Piège finally became his own master. Piège trained with Alain

Ducasse before he was tapped to become chef of Les Ambassadeurs at the Hôtel

de Crillon, where he won two Michelin stars. He then went on to create Restaurant

Jean-François Piège on the Left Bank with a business partner (he won two stars

there as well). Now he’s completely on his own, and his new restaurant showcases

his ideas about what a French haute-cuisine meal should be for the 21st century,

to wit, lighter, healthier and more accessibly priced. The menu runs to dishes like

langoustines wrapped in crispy, nearly transparent buckwheat crêpes; lobster

cooked in fig leaves and served with pickled blackberries; and veal sweetbreads

roasted on a bed of walnut shells.

(INT’L INFORMAL) Ristorante del Belbo da Bardon Located in the tiny commune

of San Marzano Oliveto, 20 minutes south of Asti, this old-fashioned country inn

is a simple place with terra-cotta tile floors and wood-beamed ceilings. Due to its

unassuming appearance, the quality of the cooking here comes as even more of a

surprise. Start off with the carne cruda di vitello battuta, a Tuscan version of steak

tartare made with veal. Next, everyone has the raviolini del plin al burro e salvia, tiny

homemade meat-stuffed ravioli garnished with melted butter and fresh sage. The

best main courses include pork braised in Barbera wine, and if you can manage a

dessert, the panna cotta is excellent. The wine list is the size of a phone directory,

and it includes a remarkable assortment of French wines as well as a spectacular

array of Barbarescos, Barolos and Barbera d’Astis.

Nori-flavored pasta with Pacific red crab at Gabriel Kreuther and dining room at Le Grand Restaurant

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Baccarat Hotel / © ERIC LAIGNEL

4 HIDEAWAY REPORT JANUARY 2016

The Cove ELEUTHERA, BAHAMAS

The Cove, a secluded 57-room

resort on the tranquil western

coast of Eleuthera, was acquired

in April by the Arizona-based Enchant-

ment Group. (The company’s portfolio

includes Enchantment Resort in Sedona,

which I have long recommended.) The

40-acre estate slopes down to a rocky

point separating two splendid white-sand

coves. Higher-category accommodations

are spacious, stylish and well-appointed.

Their aesthetic is minimalist, consisting

of white walls, white sofas, sisal matting

on marble floors and contemporary pale-

wood furniture. Given the tropical setting,

our Caribbean Cove Suite felt cool and

uncluttered rather than austere. Master

Caribbean Cove Suites provide oval tubs

and outdoor showers. The most desirable

accommodations are the Ocean Front

One Bedroom Villas and the two three-

bedroom villas. The latter come with

private pools and full kitchens.

The dining room at The Cove is housed

within an airy pavilion. There, the menu

combines Western and Asian elements

and offers a sushi list. We enjoyed local

seafood — grouper, snapper, rock lobster

— that was well-prepared and attractively

presented. In general, the cuisine attained

a much higher level than is customary at

tropical beach resorts. Service was oblig-

ing throughout. At present, spa services

can be requested. A comprehensive spa

facility is apparently under consider-

ation. As far as I could tell, the ownership

transition has been effected seamlessly.

Given the experience and track record

of the Enchantment Group, I confidently

expect this property to flourish.

Tierra ChiloéCHILOE ISLAND, CHILE

Located 660 miles south of Santiago,

remote Chiloé Island meets the

Pacific Ocean in a series of surf-

pounded sea cliffs. Many towns have

preserved their palafitos, colorful stilt

houses built over the water, and 16 wooden

colonial churches have been designated

UNESCO World Heritage sites. Tierra

Chiloé opened two years ago. Perched

on a hillside overlooking the sea, the

sculptural main building has a prism-

shaped second floor hovering over a

glass-enclosed lounge and restaurant.

All 12 accommodations are more or less

identical. Paneled entirely in wood, they

are well-designed, if not particularly

large. A king bed faces a picture window

with mesmerizing views. Local fabrics

give the room a sense of place. There

is no air-conditioning, but evenings are

quite cool, even at the height of summer.

Dinners were invariably delicious. I

particularly enjoyed the crab claws with

mashed cauliflower and avocado cream,

and gnocchi made with local purple pota-

toes in a tomato-beet sauce topped with

a delicate hake fillet. A small spa has a

treatment room, sauna and steam room.

Guests are guaranteed at least one

excursion on the property’s elegant

wooden yacht, Williche. Some couples

elected to explore the archipelago by

Zodiac, but we chose to kayak. The next

day’s hikes proved especially memorable.

After a lunch of empanadas stuffed with

razor clams and corvina, we trekked

along steep coastal sheep pastures to the

Muelle de las Almas, where, local legend

insists, the souls of the dead come to meet

the boatman to the afterlife.

Kamalame Cay ANDROS, BAHAMAS

A hundred miles long and a maxi-

mum of 40 miles wide, Andros is

larger than the rest of the Baha-

mian islands combined. Having landed at

Andros Town, we headed north to Staniard

Creek, where a private ferry transports

guests across a channel to Kamalame Cay.

A pod of dolphins accompanied the ferry,

cavorting just a few feet from its bow.

Having checked in at the “Pineapple

House” reception area — the only place on

the 96-acre island with Wi-Fi access — we

were driven in a golf cart to our Cottage

Suite. This proved to be an attractive

limestone structure overlooking a stretch

of white-sand beach and an expanse of

calm turquoise sea. The octagonal interior

featured a peaked ceiling, a king-size bed,

a small kitchenette and French doors that

opened onto a wide veranda. The décor

was in a traditional island style, with dark

wood furniture, white cotton-covered

armchairs, sisal matting, framed prints

and well-stocked bookshelves. Kamalame

Cay offers a variety of accommodations

(for a maximum of 60 guests) that range

from less expensive Marina Rooms, which

are chiefly suitable for those who to come

to pursue the local bonefish, to lavish

four-bedroom villas ideal for families.

Meals are taken either in the atmo-

spheric Great House or at the Tiki Bar &

Beach Grill next to the swimming pool.

Throughout our stay, we were impressed

by the quality of the cooking and the

charm of the waitstaff. Amenities include

an overwater spa, with panels through

which to observe marine life, at the end

of a long pier. Kamalame Cay is a stylish

hideaway that it was a wrench to leave.

BAHAMAS SOUTH AMERICA

Kamalame Cay / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER The Cove Tierra Chiloé / COURTESY TIERRA HOTELS © STEVE OGLE PHOTOGRAPHY

JANUARY 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 5

The Vines Resort & SpaMENDOZA, ARGENTINA

The Uco Valley lies an hour south of

Mendoza. A lack of sophisticated

lodgings previously relegated the

valley to a long day trip, but the recent

opening of The Vines Resort & Spa has

brought some of the region’s top wineries

such as Clos de los Siete and O. Fournier

within easy reach. Set amid 1,500 acres

of vineyards and gardens, the property

has only 22 villas, arranged in an oval

around a well-groomed meadow cooled

by fountains. Villas 1 through 12 have the

best locations, with unobstructed views

of the Andes. Our One Bedroom Deluxe

Villa offered an impressive 1,975 square

feet of indoor and outdoor space. An array

of hand-knit woolen fabrics softened the

bedroom and gave it a sense of place. And

outside, a wide patio had room for a four-

person dining set, two armchairs, two

loungers, a fire pit and a hot tub.

We had scheduled a private tour

of the on-site winery with sommelier

Martin Krawczyk. He explained how

the facility produces up to 300 different

wines a year for the 150 people who

own vineyard acreage on the property.

The following day, on a horseback ride

through the vineyards, we passed through

a construction site destined to become

a winemakers’ village. A spa is also

under construction and is scheduled to

be finished shortly. In the meantime, a

converted guest villa offers a limited

range of treatments. The resort’s other

main amenities include a striking gym

in its own building perched above the

vineyards, and the restaurant Siete

Fuegos, led by Argentine celebrity chef

Francis Mallmann.

Chef of the Year: Rodolfo Guzmán When chef Rodolfo Guzmán first opened his

innovative restaurant, BORAGó, it was not a success. Santiago’s food critics and

diners did not respect his exclusive use of Chilean ingredients — fine dining had

to be foreign. BORAGó almost failed, in fact, but eventually Guzmán’s dedication

to quality and seasonality paid off. Now 200-some farmers and foragers supply

him with an exciting and unusual array of Chilean ingredients. For example, in

one course, we tried a loco (Chilean sea snail) “sandwich;” and a briny, citrusy bite

of piure, a local tunicate (marine invertebrate). Other memorable dishes included

free-range veal topped with scalded milk skin and tiny chaura fruit, and refreshing

Atacaman rica-rica ice cream. Just as René Redzepi revolutionized Scandinavian

cuisine, Guzmán shook up the Chilean culinary establishment and blazed a new trail.

Sommelier of the Year: Jean-Charles Mahé On my recent trip to Australia, many

people told me that Perth’s dining scene was worth investigating: “They want to

give Melbourne and Sydney a run for their money.” I found no better proof of this

assertion than in the smart restaurant, Print Hall. Not only did we find the food

creative and flavorful, but we greatly enjoyed our encounter with the sommelier

(actually Director of Beverages) Jean-Charles Mahé. A personable fellow who hails

from Brittany, he inspired us with his pairing suggestions (and he has a cellar of

more than 22,000 bottles from which to choose). We also debated the relative merits

of lobsters from Brittany and Maine. On that, we could not agree. But we concurred

that a good Margaret River Chardonnay might be just the thing to go with them.

Hotel Manager of the Year: Denise Pardini Arriving at the Castello di Sinio,

we were greeted by a delightful woman who promptly poured flutes of Prosecco

to sip as we checked in. This wasn’t just the usual proforma business, however.

Instead, owner and manager Denise Pardini took the time to inquire about our

plans in the surrounding Piedmont wine towns over the next few days, offered

a list of preferred restaurants, and presented another of local attractions that

even included scenic picnic spots. Later, we learned that Pardini is a trained chef

from the San Francisco Bay Area who transitioned from a career in high-tech to

hospitality after a coup de foudre led her to take on the daunting project of turning

a derelict 12th-century fortress into a hotel. Her cooking in the hotel restaurant is

just as good as her superb hotel-keeping. Pardini made the Castello di Sinio one of

the most memorable places we’ve stayed in a very long while.

Best Guide: Bruce Maycock While staying at The Berkeley River Lodge in the

remote Kimberley region of Australia, we especially appreciated the company of

on-staff guide, Bruce Maycock. Maycock, who has spent years in this rugged part

of the continent, knows the surrounding natural world the way most of us know

the top of our dresser. His intimate knowledge informed almost every moment of

our forays. In addition, he proved terrific company, full of stories and insights that

added exponentially to our appreciation of this unspoiled land.

SOUTH AMERICA

SPECIAL RECOGNITION

Loco sandwich and piure at BORAGó; chef Rodolfo Guzmán

The Vines Resort & Spa

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6 HIDEAWAY REPORT JANUARY 2016

L’AND Vineyards THE ALENTEJO, PORTUGAL

The 22-room L’AND Vineyards resort is set in countryside 90 minutes south

of Lisbon, about 20 miles from Evora, the best-known town in the Alentejo.

Designed by Brazilian architect Marcio Kogan, it comprises a striking modern

main building and independent villa rooms situated around the adjacent swimming

pool and among the vineyards. Increasingly, it is popular with Lisboans as a weekend

getaway because of its Caudalie spa and notable restaurant.

Arriving at our Sky View Suite, we found a gas fireplace on the front terrace next

to a pair of wood-and-leather armchairs. This turned out to be a pleasant place to sit

after dinner, since nights are cool in the Alentejo even in the middle of summer. On a

hot afternoon, however, the shadowy coolness of our spacious accommodations was

very welcome. The comfortable set of rooms came with locally woven wool rugs. A

wonderful bedroom had an electrically operated roof over the bed. This enabled us

to gaze up at the stars and to breathe cool, clean country air. A spacious bath with

black slate walls was equipped with an enormous soaking tub and separate shower.

At the restaurant, you can dine outside on a sheltered terrace with fine views

over the surrounding countryside. Chef Miguel Laffan has a talent for using Portugal’s

superb produce in appetizing and original dishes such as a game pie accompanied

by a warm salad of cep mushrooms, a starter; and roasted Alentejo pork tenderloin,

with cauliflower and asparagus gratin, peas and black pudding sausage.

Relais San Maurizio PIEDMONT, ITALY

Perched on a steep, v ineyard-

planted hillside just outside of

the town of Santo Stefano Belbo,

the 30-room Relais San Maurizio was

built in 1619 as a Franciscan monastery.

Surrounded by lovely gardens dotted

with ancient cedar trees and modern

sculptures, the property consists of

two main buildings: the original manor

house and a recently opened annex. Our

suite in the handsome two-story brick

annex was attractively furnished with

a mix of contemporary Italian furniture

and antiques. The bedroom contained a

Jacuzzi, while the bath itself came with

stylish Boffi fixtures. As the suite was

on the ground floor, we had two private

terrace gardens, one in front with a

Jacuzzi and lovely views of the coun-

tryside, and the other in back. Overall,

these discreetly luxurious lodgings were

extremely well-designed, well-lit and

comfortable.

Elsewhere, we discovered a delight-

ful conservatory bar filled with flowering

bougainvillea, potted plants and trees.

The excellent Guido da Costigliole restau-

rant occupies a spectacular vaulted cellar.

There, the dish not to miss proved to be

the local Vicciola beef, which is exception-

ally flavorful but so lean that it has less

cholesterol than sea bass. The highlight

of our afternoons was a visit to the spa,

where we took reviving soaks in the

brine pool, followed by turns in the salt

grotto. Excellent massages and a variety

of beauty treatments are also available.

The Relais San Maurizio is a sophisticated

country house hotel that updates the best

of Italian style and hospitality.

URSO Hotel & Spa MADRID, SPAIN

Though the usual instinct when choosing a hotel in a European capital is to

opt for a central location, sometimes a city is best discovered from a real-

people neighborhood instead. The handsome new 78-room URSO Hotel & Spa

is located in the Salesas district, which has much in common with New York City’s

Greenwich Village or London’s Notting Hill. An arty and atmospheric area with lots

of one-of-a-kind boutiques and excellent restaurants, it is nonetheless just 15 minutes

from the Prado museum, ground zero for most visitors to Madrid.

The hotel occupies an elegant early 20th-century limestone palace that was

renovated by hotelier Pablo Carrington. He hired designer Antonio Obrador to

create a look that highlights the original features of the building — wrought-iron

balconies, stained glass, an Otis elevator — as a foil to modern rooms that come with

hardwood floors, earth-tone color schemes, grasscloth-covered headboards, white

cotton duvets and parchment lamp shades. This contrast between the traditional

and the contemporary is even more successful in the hotel’s public spaces. Overall,

the feeling is that of a patrician private house rather than a hotel.

The Table by restaurant showcases a different Spanish chef every month, with an

emphasis on bringing young talent from the provinces to the capital. The URSO also

features Madrid’s first branded luxury hotel spa, which uses products from Spanish

skin care specialist Natura Bissé and includes a wood-lined lap pool and steam room.

EUROPE

L’AND Vineyards / © FERNANDO GUERRA URSO Hotel & Spa Relais San Maurizio

JANUARY 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 7

Das Stue BERLIN, GERMANY

Until now, all of my recommended Berlin hotels have been in the Mitte district,

the prewar heart of the city. Recently, however, the area that was West Berlin

is becoming stylish again. A perfect symbol of its new chic is the 78-room

Das Stue hotel, which opened in 2013 in a building that formerly housed the Royal

Danish Embassy. The functionalist limestone structure was built from 1938-1940,

apparently to the specifications of Third Reich architect Albert Speer. Perhaps

because of its peculiar pedigree, the Danes were always rather reluctant occupants,

and it was finally sold in 1978.

Milan-based designer Patricia Urquiola is responsible for the hotel’s décors,

which display museum-quality contemporary art and photography. Rooms are divided

between the original building and a modern annex, those in the former being prefer-

able since they have more period character. Our Stue Suite came with herringbone

parquet floors, high ceilings, large windows and a huge bed. Danish modern furniture

spoke of the building’s past, and lighting throughout was impeccable.

We loved the hotel’s cozy bar with its friendly and hardworking bartender, and

enjoyed a superb meal of tuna escabeche and morel mushroom rice with pork ribs

and shrimp at Cinco, the excellent restaurant of Michelin-starred Catalan chef Paco

Pérez. In addition to a delightful library, the hotel also has a small spa with a lap

pool, three treatment rooms and a sauna.

Bareiss BLACK FOREST, GERMANY

I’ve always enjoyed the pastoral serenity to be found amid the rolling hills of

southwestern Germany, but on this occasion, I’d decided to visit the area because

a friend had warmly recommended the Bareiss hotel. Arriving at the 99-room

property, we were promptly ushered to a sumptuous pastel-colored suite with a

private balcony. The salon came with a damask-covered sofa, as well as a bar and

writing desk, while the bedroom provided an oversize bed with feather duvets. The

enormous bath was equipped with a whirlpool tub and sauna. Beyond their impressive

degree of comfort, these quarters were immaculately clean and well-maintained.

The Bareiss is an overtly luxurious place, with landscaped gardens, five indoor

and outdoor swimming pools, an outstanding spa and a variety of bars and restau-

rants. But what impressed me most during our visit was that the Bareiss family, which

has owned the hotel over three generations, still practices the refined, old-fashioned

European art of innkeeping. As expected, the highlight of our stay proved to be

lunch at the Restaurant Bareiss, where chef Claus-Peter Lumpp boasts three Michelin

stars. Highlights of the menu gastronomique were langoustines dressed with Impe-

rial caviar, and three cuts of Swabian lamb — the rack, belly and sweetbreads — all

of which were prepared differently and served with individual garnishes. Having

savored this outstanding hotel during fall, I’m now looking forward to discovering

it in winter, when guests take horse-drawn carriage rides through the snowy forest.

Faro Capo-Spartivento SARDINIA, ITALY

The Faro Capo-Spartivento hotel,

housed within an ocher-colored

stone lighthouse built in 1856

by the Italian navy, has recently been

converted into an intimate hotel with

just six junior suites. The design of the

hotel respects the original function of

the structure, but renders it warm and

comfortable, with details such as wide

oak-plank floors, Murano glass chande-

liers, white linen curtains and quarry

stone-lined baths. Although slightly

bemused by the circular bed in our suite,

which followed the curves of the tower,

we found our quarters to be unexpectedly

plush and cozy.

The point of a stay at Faro Capo-

Spartivento is relaxation. Aside from

two nearby white-sand beaches fronting

transparent turquoise water, there is little

to do in the vicinity. The phone service

can be interrupted by high winds, and

the Internet connection is feeble. This

turns out to be a gift, of course, since

lounging beside the infinity pool with a

book and getting lost in the ever-changing

spectacle of the sea is profoundly thera-

peutic. Because of its remote location, we

ate dinner at the hotel during our stay.

Happily, the chef had worked in St. Moritz

for many years, and his food was superb,

with dishes such as octopus carpaccio,

gnocchi with mussels in a zucchini sauce,

and grilled tuna with herbs and tomatoes.

The wine list was brief but interesting, and

service in the dining room was courtly,

quiet and English-speaking. We left Faro

Capo-Spartivento with the intention to

return one day, perhaps having rented

the whole place for a family reunion.

Faro Capo-Spartivento / © ROBERTO PATTI Das Stue Restaurant Bareiss / © RELAIS & CHATEAUX

8 HIDEAWAY REPORT JANUARY 2016

NanukuVITI LEVU, FIJI

Fiji is at its most magical in the

outer islands, which, until now,

have been home to all of my recom-

mended resorts: Laucala Island, Yasawa

Island and The Wakaya Club. However,

Auberge Resorts recently opened a

property on the south coast of Viti Levu.

Curious to see whether Fiji’s main island

had finally acquired a luxury hideaway,

I flew for 30 minutes across the emerald

interior to the resort’s airstrip.

The entire Nanuku development,

which comprises an 18-room resort and

private villas, stretches along almost two

miles of sandy beach. Families tend to stay

in one of the six beachfront villas (which

offer two or more bedrooms), whereas

couples opt for the Vunikau Suites atop a

hill. Thatched roofs give all of the build-

ings traditional profiles and allow them

to blend into the palm-studded landscape

behind the resort. All accommodations

have sea views.

It required some effort, but we did

leave our exceptionally comfortable suite

from time to time, descending the hill

in our golf cart (every accommodation

includes one). Nanuku organizes daily

scheduled activities such as kayaking,

yoga and bike rides. We also went on a

“food safari,” during which we toured a

crab farm and watched a woman fetch

prawns from a creek. We enjoyed the

crustaceans at dinner that evening, along

with kokoda, a ceviche-like appetizer;

feta-stuffed pork fillet with wild ota fern

and a pumpkin croquette; and a papaya

bavarois with passion fruit coulis and

coconut sorbet. Viti Levu finally has a

resort that I can enthusiastically endorse.

AFRICA SOUTH PACIFIC

Singita Pamushana MALILANGWE WILDLIFE RESERVE, ZIMBABWE

For the past two decades, Singita properties in South Africa and Tanzania have

set the standard for luxury wildlife lodges. Only one member of the portfolio

has remained relatively obscure: Singita Pamushana Lodge in Zimbabwe.

Located in the remote southeastern corner of the country, it is surrounded by the

130,000-acre private Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve, a sanctuary for endangered species.

The main lodge at Singita Pamushana is built of stone in a style that evokes Great

Zimbabwe, capital of the Kingdom of Zimbabwe from the 11th to the 15th centuries,

and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Passing through a conical entrance tower,

we emerged onto a wide wooden deck with a cobalt-blue free-form pool and a serene

backdrop of a glassy lake and green wooded hills. The lodge’s seven air-conditioned

suites are on a gentle slope and are surrounded by huge baobab trees and massive

boulders. Inside, we found a sizeable lounge decorated in a vibrant African style. The

separate bedroom opened out onto a deck with a private plunge pool and loungers,

from which it was possible to gaze at the lake 200 or 300 feet below.

The terrain at Malilangwe varies from open grassy plains to tangled bushveld.

Elephant and giraffe are seen frequently, as are cheetah and hyena. And the guides

can usually track down lion. One of the Malilangwe’s great draws, however, is the

ease with which you can observe both black and white rhino. This superb lodge is a

wonderful extension to an itinerary in Botswana or South Africa.

Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp NAMIB DESERT, NAMIBIA

The new Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is located on a private concession close to

the dry bed of the Hoanib River just outside Skeleton Coast National Park. The

Atlantic, and hence the actual coast, lies some 40 miles to the west. We arrived

to find spacious open-sided public areas, covered by steeply pitched tented ceilings,

that flowed unimpeded into the desert landscape. The accommodations comprise

seven tented suites, plus one two-bedroom family unit. They are set wide apart and

come with shaded outdoor decks that are ideal for a languorous afternoon with a

book or a tranquil sundowner. Although partly made of canvas, our suite had large

glass windows, sturdy wooden doors and electric lights. A sizeable bath provided twin

sinks and an excellent shower with abundant hot water from a nearby solar panel.

As well as game drives to view desert-adapted lion and elephant, more adventur-

ous and athletic guests can go on escorted hikes. The one activity that no one passes

up is the four-hour drive across the desert plains and the subsequent dune sea to the

Skeleton Coast. Although the dirt road is rutted and potholed — Land Cruiser tires

last a maximum of six months — the feeling of being somewhere close to the end of

the world is overwhelming. Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp is a remarkable place that

fully deserves its many accolades. It cannot be compared with ultra-luxurious safari

camps such as the Singita properties in South Africa; rather, it aims to provide a

wilderness experience that is nonetheless very comfortable and reassuringly safe.

Singita Pamushana / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Nanuku / COURTESY AUBERGE RESORTS

JANUARY 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 9

Ratua Private IslandVANUATU

The 80 islands that make up the

archipelago of Vanuatu lie 750

miles west of Fiji. Ratua Private

Island is located a 45-minute flight north

of the capital, Port Vila. Guests stay in

one of 13 striking Indonesian wood farm-

houses, estimated to be around 200 years

old, which were painstakingly restored

by artisans on Bali. Our house had a

vaulted thatched roof and a canopy bed.

A furnished terrace faced our private

stretch of beach. It all felt thoroughly

exotic and beguiling. Much as I enjoyed

these accommodations, they are clearly

not for everyone. Travelers unwilling

to forgo air-conditioning, television or

in-room Wi-Fi should look elsewhere.

The Yacht Club is the heart of the

resort and the home of the main restau-

rant, which presents simple but delicious

seafood-focused meals accented by

local produce. Activities include paddle

boarding or kayaking in the channel and

snorkeling around the island’s reef. One

day, we circumnavigated the island by

horseback, riding through its groves of

mature coconut palms and patches of

mangrove forest. Guests can also take

advantage of an overwater spa with two

treatment rooms, one of which has a full-

size bathtub hewn from the trunk of a tree.

Service tended to match the quality

of the facilities, getting everything right

that really mattered. Excursions and

transfers went smoothly, and in general,

everyone seemed anxious to help. Shyness

sometimes prevented proactive service,

but this felt like a small price to pay for

the experience of a place so thoroughly

unique and unspoiled.

SOUTH PACIFIC AUSTRALIA

Cape Lodge MARGARET RIVER, AUSTRALIA

I had long wanted to visit the southwest corner of Australia for its wines, eucalyp-

tus forests, surfing beaches and Mediterranean climate. The town of Margaret

River lies three hours’ drive south of Perth, six miles from the sea. Cape Lodge

is 20 minutes north of Margaret River on Caves Road, the tree-shaded main thor-

oughfare of the wine country. Turning onto the property, we found ourselves amid

vine-covered hills. Following the winding road, we came to the main lodge, a gabled

structure reminiscent of the Cape Dutch architecture of South Africa.

Although the property offers nine attractive Garden Rooms, we had opted for

one of the 12 spacious Lake View Suites. This proved one of those occasions when we

loved our room at first glance. Clean lines and a restrained color scheme created an

atmosphere of deep tranquility, while a peaked ceiling added an element of drama.

Sliding glass doors offered a lake vista. The hotel’s restaurant recently acquired a

new chef, Michael Elfwing, who has worked with gastronomic luminaries such as

Heston Blumenthal. During our stay, there wasn’t a dish we didn’t enjoy. Among the

highlights were a shellfish soup filled with scallops and prawns, and lamb served

two ways — as a perfectly cooked rack and a meaty croquette — both with eggplant,

organic root vegetables and a flavorful tapenade. In addition to wine tours, the lodge’s

concierges can make arrangements for golfing, biking and more. Overall, the whole

area reminded me of another favorite place: the wine country north of San Francisco.

The Berkeley River Lodge KIMBERLEY, AUSTRALIA

Set in the far northwest, the Kimberley is one of the most rugged and remote

regions of Australia. Its 135,600 square miles are home to just 35,000 people.

Cattle stations take up some of that space, but for the most part, the landscape

comprises craggy sienna-hued ranges, emerald forests and wetlands, and forbidding

cliffs that plunge into the ocean. Berkeley River Lodge, which opened in 2012, is located

on towering sand dunes, two hours from Darwin by light aircraft. The main lodge

and the 20 villas had to be specially designed and the materials brought in by barge.

Safari-style vehicles drove us to an airy, triangular pavilion — the best shape for

withstanding cyclones, apparently — with floor-to-ceiling windows, polished wood

floors, a small library nook and a comfortable bar. One level down, the pool beckoned.

Each villa provides an outdoor bath, shower and freestanding soaking tub. Inside, the

spacious, air-conditioned room comes with a king-size bed and screened windows,

plus a sliding glass door that leads out to a sheltered deck with a 180-degree view.

Daily programs give guests ample opportunities to explore. On a memorable hike,

we splashed in freshwater pools and sat beneath thundering waterfalls. On another

morning, we went to view Aboriginal pictographs. Later, we ventured up the Berkeley

River on a boat cruise beneath towering red cliffs. In the evenings, we enjoyed well-

prepared five-course dinners with dishes such as golden snapper with broccolini,

croquettes and beurre blanc. At the end of our stay, we left with real regret.

Ratua Private Island / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Margaret River vineyards / COURTESY CAPE LODGE The Berkeley River Lodge / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

10 HIDEAWAY REPORT JANUARY 2016

SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace JAIPUR, INDIA

The Rajmahal Palace was construct-

ed in the early 18th century as a

serene pavilion surrounded by a

pleasure garden. After independence,

the flamboyant, polo-playing Maharaja

Man Singh II adopted it as his personal

residence. The palace soon became a kind

of guesthouse for the global elite. Now, it

has a new incarnation as a boutique hotel.

At present, Rajmahal offers 14 air-

conditioned rooms and suites, including

two magnificent Royal Apartments, but up

to 15 new accommodations are planned.

The two-bedroom Maharaja’s Apartment

comes with a drawing room that opens

onto a private terrace, a dining room with

seating for eight, and a dedicated butler.

Scarcely less lavish are the four Royal

Suites, which include The Queen Elizabeth

II Suite, built for the British monarch’s

state visit to India in 1961.

The hotel’s principal dining venue

is The Orient Occident, where excellent

Indian and Western cuisine is graciously

served in a grand mirrored space. I

particularly enjoyed taking light meals in

The Colonnade, an exquisite glass-fronted

veranda overlooking the gardens. Nearby,

The Polo Bar displays silver trophies and

black-and-white photographs from the

former maharaja’s polo-playing days,

and provides an atmospheric venue for

an early-evening martini. The property

has an exquisite art deco (unheated)

swimming pool and a small spa.

Rajmahal permits its guests to feel

that they have been personally invited

to stay in a sumptuous private residence

— one with exceptionally gracious and

obliging staff — rather than in a hotel.

Aman TokyoJAPAN

I have long been an admirer of Aman

resorts, with their striking architec-

ture and serene locations. The debut

of the group’s only urban property was

therefore of consuming interest. I was

eager to see whether Aman had main-

tained its signature style of refined luxury

a few minutes’ walk from Tokyo Station.

The new 84-room Aman Tokyo is

set in the top six floors of the 38-story

Otemachi Tower. Designed to evoke

the feeling of being inside a giant shoji

lantern, the atrium lobby has 100-foot

ceilings and a garden with an ikebana

flower arrangement display, as well as

two classic Kyoto-style rock gardens. Our

Deluxe Room on the 35th floor was deco-

rated in cream with jet-black accents and

came with pale pine floors and light wood

walls; a sunken living area featured low-

set furniture, a long daybed and an end

table adorned with a bonsai. Expansive

windows provided unobstructed vistas of

the Imperial Palace gardens during the

day and panoramic views of the scintil-

lating cityscape at night.

The Restaurant by Aman is located

on a corner of the 33rd floor and serves

seasonally inspired European cuisine.

(Indigenous fare is available only at

breakfast.) The chief amenity at the hotel

is a two-floor, 27,000-square-foot spa. The

98-foot basalt-lined indoor infinity pool

is designed so that the nearby skyscrap-

ers are invisible from the water, and on

clear days, Mount Fuji can be seen in

the distance. Aman Tokyo provides a

welcome retreat from the hustle and

bustle. The city has long lacked a boutique

hotel of this caliber.

RAASJODHPUR, INDIA

For many years, my recommended

hotel in Jodhpur has been the

colossal Umaid Bhawan Palace,

part of which is still home to the current

maharaja. For those who prefer smaller

hotels, however, there is now a superb

alternative. RAAS is an 18th-century

haveli (mansion) situated directly beneath

the walls of the city’s spectacular Mehran-

garh Fort that was converted and extended

into a 39-room resort in 2009.

In addition to the four original build-

ings, the resort has three contemporary

structures. These have been designed in

an austere modern style, but incorporate

Rajasthan’s distinctive red sandstone as

well as traditional motifs such as hand-

crafted jhali window screens. One houses

four Duplex Suites with private balco-

nies. We had reserved a Luxury Room

in the main accommodations block. At

484 square feet, this proved to be on the

small side. On a future occasion, I would

probably opt for a Duplex Suite or for one

of the three Heritage Suites in the old

haveli buildings. The latter are much more

spacious and extremely atmospheric.

Darikhana serves Indian cuisine,

while Baradari offers a menu of interna-

tional (chiefly Thai and Mediterranean)

dishes. The setting of the latter, spill-

ing out from an old stone pavilion onto

a terrace overlooking a large heated

swimming pool, is particularly appealing.

The resort’s other amenity is a small but

attractive spa. Throughout our stay, the

staff members were charm personified.

Overall, this is one of the most stylish and

distinctive small hotels I have discovered

in recent years.

ASIA

RAAS / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER SUJÁN Rajmahal Palace / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER Aman Tokyo / COURTESY AMAN

JANUARY 2016 HIDEAWAY REPORT 11

BEST CRUISEAqua Mekong, Cambodia In December 2014, the Aqua Mekong became the first

luxury vessel to ply the Mekong River between Vietnam and Cambodia. This is

the third and newest member of the Aqua fleet; the other two boats operate on the

Peruvian Amazon. The Mekong carries 40 passengers in 20 stylishly appointed

suites. As with its siblings, it comprises three decks, the first two devoted primarily

to guest cabins, with the rear of the second taken up by a lovely dining room. On the

top deck, the Mekong has a spacious bar/lounge with seating areas along floor-to-

ceiling windows, a media room with a large screen, and a small library. At the stern,

a gym provides a selection of aerobic machines, while in the bow, a shaded plunge

pool offers an idyllic place to relax or to sip a glass of wine. The cuisine is under

the supervision of Michelin-starred chef David Thompson, whose restaurant nahm

in Bangkok is justly regarded as one of the finest in Asia. Daily excursions include

bicycle trips through the Cambodian countryside and kayak forays into unspoiled

floating villages. An exceptional staff helps to make this a ship of great distinction.

Seven TerracesPENANG, MALAYSIA

George Town is the capital of the

island of Penang. A mini-boom

has led to many of the city ’s

so-called “shophouses” being converted

into boutique hotels. The shophouse is

George Town’s most emblematic form of

architecture. The idiom became common

as a result of Chinese immigration in the

19th century, which explains why so many

have a Chinese appearance, with ceramic

tile roofs and elaborate decoration.

Hotelier Christopher Ong and Karl

Steinberg acquired seven fire-ruined

shophouses near the center of the city and

undertook the massive task of restoration.

The 18-suite Seven Terraces opened in

2013. While preserving the 19th-century

façades, Ong and Steinberg managed to

create a large, tile-floored central atrium

ornamented with sweet-smelling fran-

gipani trees. The ground floor includes

Kebaya, serving a menu of Indo- and

Straits Chinese dishes, plus a bar, a

library and a lap pool. The public rooms

display Ong’s collection of local antiques,

including lacquered tiffin carriers and

teak couches inlaid with mother of pearl.

The suites are decorated in a similar

style. The most desirable are the duplex

Argus Suites, which overlook a quiet

back street. Ours came with a spacious

lounge furnished with Chinese antiques

and colonial-style furniture of British, Sri

Lankan and local provenance. Reached

via stairs, the bedroom opened onto a

small private balcony overlooking George

Town’s Anglican church. Throughout our

stay, service was outstanding. The Seven

Terraces is a truly distinctive and utterly

delightful hotel.

BEST DRIVING TOURSardinia, Italy Sardinia is the wildest and most unspoiled major island in the Medi-

terranean. It offers a spectacular variety of landscapes, gorgeous empty beaches,

intriguing archaeological sites, superb restaurants and outstanding hotels. Our

eight-day tour proved to be one of the best driving trips we’ve ever taken. After two

days in Cagliari, the island’s largest city, we headed west to Nora, then retraced

our steps and followed the island’s eastern coast north — the SS125 from Santa

Maria Navarrese to Dorgali is one of the most beautiful roads in Europe — before

heading inland to Oliena. Finally we drove up to the old Catalan-inflected seaport

of Alghero. The roads in Sardinia are excellent. To view my trip in detail, visit

andrewharper.com/itinerary/sardinia-road-trip.

BEST ITINERARYChile and Argentina I often find that my journeys, with slight modifications, can

readily be followed by Hideaway Report subscribers. This certainly proved to be the

case with my recent visit to Chile and Argentina, two countries which are easily

connected by a short but memorable flight over the spectacular Andes. The trip

included visits to top wineries, hiking, horseback riding, sailing, kayaking, the

gastronomic delights of Santiago and Buenos Aires, and stays at several delightful

resorts. Find day-by-day details at andrewharper.com/itinerary/chile-argentina.

Infinity pool and Carmenère grapes at Viña Vik resort in the Colchagua Valley, Chile / PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

Seven Terraces

INDELIBLE MEMORIES OF 2015

Lunch on the Skeleton CoastAfter a four-hour drive through the desert

from Hoanib Camp, we finally reached the

Atlantic shore, where hundreds of Cape

fur seals were bobbing in the roiling surf.

Before our arrival, someone had set up a

long table on the beach, and half a dozen

metal-framed canvas chairs had all been

arranged to face the ocean. Our guide

began opening large plastic containers

and scooping their contents onto metal

serving plates. He then uncorked bottles

of red and white South African wine. We

sat down for a lunch of fried chicken,

meatballs, pasta and feta salad. Our chairs

were so close to the sea that exhausted

breakers occasionally washed around

our ankles. We had come to the end of

the earth, it seemed, and all our cares

were behind us.

Bugling elk in the TetonsIt was late October when we arrived at

Jenny Lake Lodge. Aspens glowed with

autumn gold, but low-lying clouds hid

the craggy peaks. We enjoyed a leisurely

dinner in the lodge’s log dining room, so

night had fallen by the time we finished

dessert. Outside, no moon or stars were

visible, and a light mist descended as

hike,” he cautioned, “but I think you'll like

it.” With that, we hopped out and began

flanking a stream punctuated by inviting

pools of water, which would have provided

welcome relief from the sun. “Not yet,”

warned Bruce. “The salties can get up

this far.” So we continued, until, tired and

sweaty, we were high enough to be safe

from the crocodiles. Following Maycock,

we jumped into a big pool fed by a stunning

cascade. The cool water crashed around

our heads and pummeled our backs in a

delirious outdoor massage.

Daydreaming in an Italian lighthouseSardinia’s idyllic Faro Capo-Spartivento

hotel is housed within a former lighthouse.

Having settled in, I set off to explore and

soon discovered a staircase that led up

to the lighthouse keeper’s watch, a perch

made even more companionable by the

fact that it was furnished with two chairs

and a telescope. Lulled by briny breezes,

I spent several quiet hours dividing my

attention between a book and the soul-

stirring views of the azure Mediterranean.

Occasionally, a passing ship would come

within range of my telescope.

we made our way along a path through

smoke-scented air in the darkness. Then,

from the distance, came the eerie sound

of bugling elk. Thrilled, we stopped and

listened as one bull’s challenge was

answered by another, and another. The

next day, the clouds parted and revealed

the majestic Teton spires, powdered with

fresh snow.

An experimental Mendoza wineryRising like a Mayan pyramid from the

vineyards, the Catena Zapata winery is

one of Mendoza’s most popular stops.

We took the basic tour, but what really

made the visit unforgettable was our

private visit to the experimental winery. I

delighted in sampling cutting-edge wines

right from the barrel, such as a rich and

warmly spicy Roussanne and a surpris-

ingly good Criolla, a variety typically

relegated to bulk wine. My favorite was

the gorgeous passito of Malbec, a wine

made from sun-dried grapes.

A hike in the OutbackOn an excursion from The Berkeley River

Lodge in northwestern Australia, our

guide, Bruce Maycock, eased our boat

toward a rocky inlet. “This will be a bit of a

MORE AWARDSVisit andrewharper.com/grand-awards for more

accolades, including best SPA, BEACH and POOL,

the HOTEL I MOST HATED TO LEAVE, WILDLIFE

ENCOUNTER of the year, MOST MEMORABLE

WINE TASTING and GASTRONOMIC HIGHLIGHTS.

To download our 2015 Hotel and Resort Index, visit andrewharper.com/go/hr-index.

Cape fur seals on the Skeleton Coast, Namibia / PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER

The Hideaway Report (ISSN 0884-7622) is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2016 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher.

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JANUARY 2016 | Our 37th Year andrewharper.com

Rotorua, North Island

newzealand.com/luxury

Photo Credit: Pure Cruise

You’re never far from the ocean in New Zealand. Make the most of long hot summer days with sailing, surfing, diving and fishing on thousands of kilometres of stunning coastline. Swim too with the Hector’s Dolphin. The world’s smallest dolphin – found only in New Zealand.

One of the most special things about fall in New Zealand is the colors. Deciduous trees turn brilliant hues of yellow, gold and hot orange, all set against a sky that seems far too blue to be true. Grape vines turn to gold, laden with fruit that will become some of New Zealand’s most lauded wines.

Queenstown, South Island

newzealand.com/luxury

Photo Credit: Julian Apse

From June to September, New Zealand’s South Island transforms into a winter-wonderland. Snow sparkles from alpine peaks and sunshine dances on the waters of crystal clear lakes. For those more accustomed to apres ski, picnic atop a glacier on virgin snow, enjoying champagne on ice - our way.

Jura Glacier, Queenstown

newzealand.com/luxury

Photo Credit: Darryl Ward

Vibrant and uplifting, spring in New Zealand is sublime - crisp days, new blooms and rare wildlife. Cherry blossoms and bluebells nod in the breeze, and baby lambs bleat in the background. Fly-fishing purists come to New Zealand, the ‘world’s best trout fishery’, in springtime to try their luck on ‘fresh’ Brown Trout, fish well rested over the winter months.

West Coast, South Island

newzealand.com/luxury

Photo Credit: David Lambroughton