8
1 http://www.mntca.org Newsletter Date Volume 18, Issue 2 Valerie Price and Jeff Carroll, Managing Editors Photo courtesy of Valerie Price What happens if or when winter returns to our Minnesota spring- time gardens? Well, pardon my rhetoric…it depends. It began long ago. Trees and shrubs begin the long, slow ac- climation period for winter in mid to late August. This ac- climation process is triggered by shorter days, which begins the chemical changes that al- low plant cells to reliably tol- erate temperatures as low as - 40º F or colder. Even though the process begins in August, trees and shrubs aren’t fully ready for winter until well into December in the Southeast region of Minnesota. Winter, the period of rest and occasional dor- mancy (of buds) is a normal and survivable stress for trees and shrubs that are in their cold hardiness range (e.g., zone 4)…as long as they entered the acclima- tion period in a healthy state. Trees that enter the acclima- tion period stressed from drought, nutrient deficiencies or pH stresses, over-pruning or construction damage are less likely to fully tolerate winter’s additional stresses. Their energy reserves are so low that they are more likely to suf- fer frost cracks and cankers, needle or bud death, twig die- back, cambial death, branch death, root death or complete death. Did you water last autumn? Dry soils get colder than moist soils and the cold penetrates deeper in dry soils. Trees and shrubs that entered the winter anchored in dry soils are much more likely to lose a lot of roots to cold temperatures from the recent winter. Roots are the least cold-hardy parts of a woody plant: soil temperatures of 15- 19º F can kill fine roots, the roots that take up the majority of water and nutrients for tree health. Soil temperatures of -5 to - 10º F cause the death of woody roots. If the soils were dry and there was no mulch over the root systems, the damage is likely to be even worse. After a minimum of 40 days, trees and shrubs can potentially begin the deacclimation process, which is now triggered by temperatures. Different plants require different amounts of degree days, those that are provided by daily temperatures greater than the mid-30s, even though it can drop below freezing at night. As you’ve probably noticed, it doesn’t take many degree days to get elms and lilacs started! They’re among the first to show growth – swollen leaf and flower buds. Maples are a bit more subtle, but the flow of their sap is a sign that the deacclimation process has started. Once the deacclimation chemical changes begin, winter hardiness slowly disap- pears and plants once hardy to -40º F can be damaged by temperatures of +25º F! It’s kind of like taking off your winter long-johns Inside this issue: Too Cold for Chlorophyll? pg.1 Your tree is not a cactus: The Importance of watering. - Eric North pg.2 Supercooling of Plant Tissues in Deacclimated Trees and Shrubs pg.3 Japanese Beetles - Jeffery Hahn pg.4 Forest Service Photo Contest pg.4 Education Updates pg.5 Important Program Updates pg.6 TCA Cookbook pg.6 Summer Volunteer Calendar pg. 7 Volunteer Hours Form pg.8 Frost crack on a stressed lileleaf linden. Photo by: Jack Schmidling Productions Too Cold for Chlorophyll? connued on page 2

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cold-hardy parts of a woody plant: soil temperatures of 15- 19º F can kill fine roots, the roots that take up the majority of water and nutrients for tree health. Soil temperatures of -5 to - 10º F cause the death of woody roots. If the soils were dry and there was no mulch over the root systems, the damage is likely to be even worse. Photo by: Jack Schmidling Productions Inside this issue:  Important Program Updates pg.6 Newsletter Date Volume 18, Issue 2 1  TCA Cookbook pg.6

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1

http://www.mntca.org Newsletter Date

Volume 18, Issue 2 Valerie Price and Jeff Carroll, Managing Editors

Photo courtesy of Valerie Price

What happens if or when winter

returns to our Minnesota spring-

time gardens? Well, pardon my

rhetoric…it depends.

It began long ago. Trees and

shrubs begin the long, slow ac-

climation period for winter in

mid to late August. This ac-

climation process is triggered

by shorter days, which begins

the chemical changes that al-

low plant cells to reliably tol-

erate temperatures as low as -

40º F or colder. Even though

the process begins in August,

trees and shrubs aren’t fully

ready for winter until well into

December in the Southeast

region of Minnesota.

Winter, the period of rest and occasional dor-

mancy (of buds) is a normal and survivable

stress for trees and shrubs that are in their cold hardiness

range (e.g., zone 4)…as long as they entered the acclima-

tion period in a healthy state. Trees that enter the acclima-

tion period stressed from drought, nutrient deficiencies or

pH stresses, over-pruning or construction damage are less

likely to fully tolerate winter’s additional stresses. Their

energy reserves are so low that they are more likely to suf-

fer frost cracks and cankers, needle or bud death, twig die-

back, cambial death, branch death, root death or complete

death.

Did you water last autumn? Dry soils get colder than

moist soils and the cold penetrates deeper in dry soils.

Trees and shrubs that entered the winter anchored in dry

soils are much more likely to lose a lot of roots to cold

temperatures from the recent winter. Roots are the least

cold-hardy parts of a woody plant: soil temperatures of 15-

19º F can kill fine roots, the roots that take up the majority

of water and nutrients for tree health. Soil temperatures of

-5 to - 10º F cause the death of woody roots. If the soils

were dry and there was no mulch over the root systems,

the damage is likely to be even worse.

After a minimum of 40 days, trees

and shrubs can potentially begin the

deacclimation process, which is now

triggered by temperatures. Different

plants require different amounts of

degree days, those that are provided

by daily temperatures greater than

the mid-30s, even though it can drop

below freezing at night.

As you’ve probably noticed, it

doesn’t take many degree days to get

elms and lilacs started! They’re

among the first to show

growth – swollen leaf and

flower buds. Maples are a

bit more subtle, but the flow of their sap is a sign that the

deacclimation process has started. Once the deacclimation

chemical changes begin, winter hardiness slowly disap-

pears and plants once hardy to -40º F can be damaged by

temperatures

of +25º F!

It’s kind of

like taking off

your winter

long-johns

Inside this issue: Too Cold for Chlorophyll? pg.1

Your tree is not a cactus: The

Importance of watering. - Eric

North pg.2

Supercooling of Plant Tissues in

Deacclimated Trees and Shrubs

pg.3

Japanese Beetles - Jeffery Hahn

pg.4

Forest Service Photo Contest

pg.4

Education Updates pg.5

Important Program Updates

pg.6

TCA Cookbook pg.6

Summer Volunteer Calendar

pg. 7

Volunteer Hours Form pg.8

Frost crack on a stressed littleleaf linden.

Photo by: Jack Schmidling Productions

Too Cold for Chlorophyll?

continued on

page 2

2

before Memorial Day…not a good idea.

It’s most tender below. Roots are the least cold hardy

parts of a woody plant, followed by the cambium of young

trees and branches, flower buds and needles, and finally the

leaf buds. Since leaf buds are the most cold hardy, they can

emerge and unfold fully in the spring, seemingly unscathed,

yet only to be let down by the damaged roots and/or cambi-

um. If the roots or the cambium have been severely dam-

aged, those perfect leaves that emerged wilt, scorch, die and

fall off. No water, no life.

Crystal ball. What can be expected this spring and sum-

mer? Certainly root death on those trees and shrubs un-

lucky enough to have been in dry landscape soils. Dead

roots mean less water for the rest of the plant.

Less water upstairs means more twig die-back,

frost cankers, frost cracks, needle death and maybe some

flower bud damage. Trees that have leafed-out or are flow-

ering could suffer some (or all) loss of the new foliage and

flowers if temperatures fall down in the mid-20’s (again,

depending on the different species). If the trees are fruit

trees, there’s likely to be a smaller harvest for 2012.

Leaf loss, flower

loss, stem cankers

can all result from

hail storms, yet

very few trees and

shrubs ever die

from hail damage.

Other examples

of inciting events

(sudden, short-

term damage

events) include gypsy moth defoliations, late cold-snaps and

wind storms. Healthy plants can normally tolerate these

types of damage and recover just fine. Only previously

stressed (pre-disposed) trees and shrubs die after inciting

events. Potential damage from a mid-spring cold-snap

could be mild, ugly or enough to finally push the stressed

plants over the edge. Potential damage from 2011’s

droughty autumn is likely to be much more severe, more

damaging to the tree’s entire system.

Damage to the roots from the colder than normal soil tem-

peratures could be the worst damage so far. Damage from

the upcoming summer and autumn is hard to predict, but if

the drought persists (it’s definitely not over yet) the damage

in 2013 could be very severe.

Now, what to do? *Advocate regular irrigation and mulching (2-4 inches of

organic mulch reduces soil moisture evaporation by 30%)

*Have patience. Wait until mid to late summer before

pruning out dead wood or giving up on a plant. It takes a

long time to damage them and a long time for them to re-

cover.

*Don’t fertilize if root damage is suspected…that only

makes the situation worse.

Cambial death on a trunk of a corktree…most often this leads to trunk decay.

Too Cold for Chlorophyll? ... continued

Your Tree is Not a Cactus: The importance of watering -Eric North

Planting trees in your community during Arbor Day can be

an enjoyable and rewarding activity. By planting trees you

are doing something to positively affect your neighbor-

hood’s streets or parks hopefully for generations to come.

However, few of us stop to think about that tree after the

Arbor festivities have passed. We continue on with our

daily lives enjoying the shade and scenery provided from

our large, well- established trees. So, now that you have

planted a tree (or two or three) what comes next?

Watering and tree care

There are lots of things to consider from pruning to pest

control, but what about watering? It’s easily forgotten that

trees, like all plants, need regular doses of water in order to

survive. In order for an environment to support trees there

needs to be about 19 inches of precipitation (rain and

snow) per year. Minnesota has a range of precipitation

from 18 inches to 32 inches annually. So, if we get enough

rain, why bother watering trees at all? You might be think-

ing, “I’ve never seen anyone watering the forests”, and you

Your tree is not a cactus: The importance of watering - Eric North

continued on page 3

3

are probably right, I haven’t seen that either. However city

environments differ quite a bit from forest environments.

Street trees are planted in some pretty small spaces, from 2

foot wide to 8 feet wide along most of our city trees. We

ask trees to put up with a lot in the city, from people lock-

ing bikes to them to dicing salts from our winter weather.

Some of these are difficult to prevent, but we can help trees

deal with the stressful city-life through watering.

Lack of water is the number one cause of stress and stunted

growth for urban trees. Like you, when trees are stressed

they become more susceptible to illness. Stressed trees, like

the paper birch become an easy target for the bronze birch

borer (an insect), which can eventually kill the tree.

Watering your tree can be an

inexpensive and easy way to

reduce trees issues. According

to the City of St. Paul it costs

less than $3 to water a newly

planted tree for a year. Consid-

ering healthy mature trees have

been shown to reduce both

heating and cooling costs for

your home, making $3.00 a

very smart investment. For more information on watering

your street trees please visit http://www.stpaul.gov/

index.aspx?NID=853

Your tree is not a cactus... continued

Supercooling of Plant Tissues in Deacclimated Trees and Shrubs

Ice crystals form most readily when there is a “nucleus”

present in water. This nucleus is the beginning of the for-

mation of the ice and the more nuclei there are, the faster

the ice crystals spread. Ice crystals can in fact become nu-

clei, so once the freezing starts, it progresses rapidly com-

pared to the time that it took to begin freezing.

Nuclei can be in the form of cellular bacteria, polysaccha-

ride molecules, or any other “impurity” in a plant cell’s

water content. Freezing can also start on the outside of

plant parts, especially if the photosynthetic leaf or stem

tissues are moist. Ice crystals start in the water coating the

leaves and progresses into the leaves or tender stems.

Cells in different plant parts (e.g., leaf tissues, petioles,

cambium, xylem) freeze and sustain damage at different

temperatures, all below the traditional “freezing” tempera-

ture of 32 degrees F. More tender plant parts, for instance

young “bedding” plants such as petunias or tomatoes, are

killed at temperatures of 25 degrees F, or even a bit warm-

er. Plants that are native to higher elevations or colder

temperatures tolerate cooler temperatures (reliably to -2

degrees C) depending on the plant part...often to -40 de-

grees F.

Whether or not plant tissues are damaged by spring tem-

peratures once the plants have deacclimated (started active

growth after the winter rest period) depends on a number of

factors:

*Age of the plant tissue. Leaves that are semi-mature are

actually pretty tolerant of cool temperatures, compared to

newly emerged leaves.

*Dehydration of the plant cells. Most plant tissue death is

due to intracellular dehydration. Ice forms in the spaces

between cells and draws moisture from the interior of the

cells. Eventually, if the temperatures stay cold long

enough, the cells become dehydrated.

*Moisture on the outside of the leaves or tender stem tis-

sues. The more moisture on the outside, the more likely

there will be damage due to dehydration to the interior.

Therefore, cold temperatures accompanied by winds are

less damaging than when you see leaves covered with frost

at the same temperatures or even warmer.

*Location of the plant. Interior leaves, trees/shrubs against

buildings (especially masonry buildings) can benefit from

the warmer, more protected spaces. Outer leaves or tender

stems may be damaged while the interior leaves are un-

scathed.

*Ability to supercool. At this time of the year, leaves on

trees and shrubs that have emerged have varying abilities

to supercool, that is, lower the temperature of water in and

between plant cells without actual crystallization and dehy-

dration. With tree leaves, supercooling is possible down to

-2 C...reliably (that’s 28 degrees F), sometimes approach-

ing -10 C (14 degrees F).

*Buds. Any plant part that is still protected by bud scales

is easily able to tolerate cold spring temperatures, far below

freezing. The buds may end up being disfigured by desic-

cation, but still functional.

4

Japanese Beetles - Jeffery Hahn, Asst. Extension Entomologist

As seen on Yard and Garden

There have been a lot of questions concerning Japanese

beetles (JB) as we go into the 2012 growing season. JB

has been increasing in numbers over the last four or five

years, especially in the Twin Cities area, although JB are

also starting to be found more commonly in other areas of

the state as well. They can be challenging to control and

people will take any steps they can to reduce their num-

bers in their gardens and yards.

The first question people ask is

how bad are JB going to be this

year. There isn't an easy answer

to that question and it undoubted-

ly will vary according to where

you live. If JB was abundant last

year, there is a good chance they

will be common again this sum-

mer. However, a factor that can

have an impact on JB numbers is

soil moisture. The eggs and the

young grubs have a harder time

surviving in dry soil so if dry

conditions exist when JB are lay-

ing eggs, that can reduce the numbers of adults that are

seen the following year. Of course, if the turf area is well

watered, that will make it easier for JB to survive.

It is difficult to determine what role the winter weather

had on JB populations. Although the mild temperatures

favored JB, the lack of snow cover could have been po-

tentially detrimental to them. The early spring we have

been experiencing should not have any effect on JB num-

bers. However, expect them to emerge earlier than nor-

mal. In a typical season, JB emerge around the 4th of

July. If the weather holds, the adults could be active as

soon as the 3rd or 4th week of June.

And speaking of the early spring, people are wondering

whether they can still treat JB grubs this spring or wheth-

er it is too late. An important factor to first consider is

whether your primary goal is to control the grubs, be-

cause you are seeing damage in your turf, or the adults

because of damage they have done to garden and land-

scape plants. If your aim is to

reduce the adults by controlling

the grubs, you can save yourself

the effort as this is not effec-

tive. The adults are mobile and

can easily fly in from areas out-

side your property.

If you are finding turf damage

due to JB grubs, and if you have

had a lot of adults on your prop-

erty look carefully for this, then

the best time to treat for grubs is

in July. If you are going to use a

preventative, such as imidaclo-

prid (e.g. Merit), then you should be treating your turf

when you first see the adults flying. About two to three

weeks after the first adults have emerged, JB eggs are

hatching. Preventative insecticides are most effective

against the first instar larvae but not the older second and

third instar larvae so the timing is critical.

If JB grubs are not treated then, it is still possible to con-

trol them with a curative insecticide, such as trichlorfon

(e.g. Dylox). You can effectively treat JB with a curative

insecticide until about mid-August. By spring, the grubs

are too large to effectively treat them.

Forest Service kicks off My Neighborhood Forest photo contest.

Contest to highlight colors of the urban forest

WASHINGTON, April 10, 2012 -- The U.S. Forest Ser-

vice today announced its My Neighborhood Forest photo

contest, celebrating America’s urban and community

forests.

The Grand Prize winner will receive $200 in outdoor

gear courtesy of the National Forest Foundation.

The contest, which runs from April 11 – July 22, seeks to

highlight the natural beauty that spring and summer bring

to U.S. neighborhoods, communities and cities, as well as

the crucial role of trees in the places we call home.

Those interested in competing should visit

www.Challenge.gov for more details on the prizes and con-

test rules.

With 80 percent of the nation's population in urban areas,

there are strong environmental, social, and economic cases

to be made for the conservation of green spaces to guide

growth and revitalize city centers and older suburbs.

Urban forests, through planned connections of green spac-

es, form the green infrastructure system on which commu-

nities depend. This natural life support system sustains

clean air and water, biodiversity, habitat, nesting and travel

corridors for wildlife, and connects people to nature.

5

Education Updates

Inventory Emphasis

Volunteers will be needed to help with inventories in

Dakota County, St. Paul, Mora, Bemidji, Brainerd,

Mankato and Royalton. This training will not only

teach you how to conduct tree surveys but you will

also be able to lead the inventory groups.

These inventories are vital to communities and with

budget constraints they are relying on volunteers to

aid them. Tree inventories help to discover what the

diversity a community has and allows them to create

better urban forestry plans. How can you plant for

diversity when you don’t know what you have? Plan-

ning for diversity will help them to avoid major losses

due to pests and disease.

The training covers:

*The value of tree surveys or in inventories and how

they are conducted.

*A brief overview of common trees and how to I.D.

them.

*How to correctly measure D.B.H and canopy spread.

*How to Condition Rate trees.

*How to complete data forms.

We will be holding the Tree Inventory Emphasis

Training on May 5th from 10:30-5:30 with an hour

break for lunch. The training will cost $25 if you

bring your own lunch and $35 if you want lunch pro-

vided.

To register go to

http://www.mntca.org/emphasis-training-registration/

TCAs Receive Discount on Tree Inspector Program

TCAs receive a 50% off discount on May 24ths Min-

nesota Tree Inspector training and certification test-

ing. This means you only pay $42.50 for the materials,

training and exam! This discount is currently only for

TCAs coming in as a new Tree Inspector and is not for

those renewing their certification.

The certified tree inspector program was implemented

in 1974 in response to Dutch elm disease and oak wilt.

Since then, hundreds of communities have participated

and there are more than 800 certified tree inspectors in

Minnesota. Certified tree inspectors have passed a test

in which they demonstrate proficiency in Emerald Ash

Borer, Dutch elm disease and oak wilt management,

tree identification, firewood identification, and shade

tree management. Tree inspectors must attend annual

recertification workshops to learn the latest infor-

mation on tree care, exotic species management, shade

tree management, tree selection, insect and disease

identification, tree health care and other timely topics.

The workshop you attend includes basic instruction so

that you can demonstrate the following qualifications:

be able to identify all native tree species, with or with-

out leaves, and all felled or downed trees with bark

intact common to your work area; know and under-

stand the biology of Minnesota's most common shade

tree pests; be familiar with symptoms of oak wilt and

Dutch elm disease, and be able to identify other prob-

lems affecting oaks and elms; know the proper method

of collecting samples for disease diagnosis; know the

approved control methods for these common tree

pests; be familiar with recommended tree species used

in replanting programs, their planting requirements,

and the care of these trees after planting.

To register go to www.mntca.org/tree-inspector/

print out the form and send to the address on the form.

Fruits of the City: Renewal Opportunity

There are some opportunities to get in some Renewal Edu-

cation hours through the non-profit Fruits of the City.

Fruits of the City aims to capture fresh fruit that would oth-

erwise go to waste and redistributes it to those in need.

Soil Basics for Thriving Orchards and Gardens will count

for 1 hour of the Plant Selection requirement.

Fruit Pests and Diseases will count for 1 hour of the Plant

Health Issues Requirement.

Those who volunteer for Fruits of the City as a Neighbor-

hood Coordinator receive free classes from them.

For more information or to register go to

http://www.mnproject.org/food-FruitEducation.html

If you attend these sessions as part of your Renewal please

fill out the Renewal Opportunities form on www.mntca.org

April 24th Soil Basics for Thriving Orchards and Gardens – Fred Ro-

zumalski

6

Location: Bachman’s on Lyndale 6:30 – 8:00 P.M.

Cost: $20

http://www.eventbrite.com/event/soilbasics

Description: Soils are the first critical component of a successful or-

chard or garden. It's a deep subject, but understanding

the basics of soil nutrition, aeration, drainage and the

soil food web can go a long way in setting up for

sucess. This 'how to' course will have you walking

away with exact steps for conditioning and maintaining

healthy soil.

Bio: Fred Rozumalski is an ecologist and landscape architect

currently employed in the water resources division of

Barr Engineering Company in Minneapolis, MN. A be-

liever in the power of every land owner's potential to

help regenerate ecological balance, Fred has developed

a specialty in designing practical landscapes that se-

quester carbon, harvest stormwater, and conserve ener-

gy. His work ranges from writing city-wide green infra-

structure plans, to restoring native ecosystems, to de-

signing corporate urban environments that feature per-

ennial food crops. Fred is committed to teaching others

to implement sustainable landscapes.

May 8th Fruit Pests and Diseases – Jeffrey Johnson

Location: Greater Frogtown Community Development

Corporation 6:30 – 8:00 P.M. Cost: $10

http://www.eventbrite.com/event/fruitpests

Description: Come learn how to control the most serious and damag-

ing pests on your fruit trees and shrubs. This class will

cover basics of pest control on Apples, Pears, Apricots,

Raspberries, Blueberries, Grapes, Strawberries and Cur-

rants.

Bio: Jeffrey Johnson is a Landscape Gardener with the Min-

nesota Landscape Arboretum, University of Minnesota.

He is a woody plants specialist maintaining the trees and

shrubs collections throughout the public cultivated areas

in the Arboretum's 1125 acres.

Jeffrey has been a professional horticulturist for 30

years. At the Arboretum he has managed the HRC's or-

chards, Landscape Plants Breeding Program nurseries,

recruited and retained a substantial volunteer corps,

taught adult education classes, given tours and cultivat-

ed donors.

Important Program Updates

Membership Cards

Sent along with this newsletter is a membership card,

which you will see has a membership number on it. Hold

onto this card! I will be sending out information about

what Volunteer hours you have submitted and what Re-

newal hours you have completed. This number will be

your identifier so that I’m not telling everyone how much

you have volunteered this year. So instead of looking for

your name, look for your number. Hopefully this will fix

the issue of folks not remembering which hours they’ve

already turned in

Try it out on the Volunteer Hours and Renewal Hours

Tracker that I sent with the newsletter. Let me know what

you think!

TCA Cookbook Available

The Tree Care Advisor Cookbook, "Growing and Eat-

ing Fruits from Trees and Shrubs in Minnesota", that

was put together by several TCAs and pulled together

and edited by Rebecca Koetter is now available for

purchase! Get a sneak peak at

www.mntca.org/tca-cookbook/

The book gives the growing requirements and recipes

for every fruit including common fruits such as apples

all the way to gooseberries. This book makes for a

great reference and helps you make some great food!

Get one today!

There are 100 pages in total and they cost $32.40 to

print, put in spiral binding. They also have a clear

plastic cover which is great in case of spills. We are

charging $33 for them. It will cost $4.90 if you would

like it shipped to you or you can reserve one for

pickup by sending a check to:

TCA

115 Green Hall

1530 Cleveland Ave. N

St. Paul, MN, 55108

If you would like one please send a check written out

to the University of Minnesota and write TCA in the

memo, for $33 if you want to have one reserved for

you to pick up at a later date, or if you would like one

mailed to you please send a check of $37.90 and one

will be send to you as soon as it is received. This in-

formation is also available on the TCA website, just

look in the menu bar (no pun intended).

If you have any questions about the cookbooks please

feel free to e-mail [email protected]

7

Summer Volunteer Calendar

Great River Greening - Restoration Event Saturday April 21, 8:30am – 12:30pm

Indian Mounds Regional Park, St. Paul, MN

Minneapolis Park and Recreation

Earth Day Watershed Clean Up Saturday, April 21, 9:30am – 12:00pm

Multiple Minneapoils Locations, see description

TCA - DirT Meeting Wednesday, April 25, 6:30pm – 8:30pm

116 Green Hall, 1530 Cleveland Ave. N, St. Paul, MN,

55108

City of Plymouth - Bare Root Tree and Shrub Sale Friday April 27, 12pm – 5pm

Plymouth Maintenance Facility

City of Plymouth - Bare Root Tree and Shrub Sale Saturday, April 28, 7:30am – 1:00pm

Plymouth Maintenance Facility

City of St. Paul - Arbor Day Fruit Tree Event Saturday, April 28, 9am – 12pm

Horton Park, St. Paul, MN

Tree Trust - St. Louis Park Tree Distribution Saturday, May 5, 7:30am – 12:00pm

2231 Edgewood Avenue South, St. Louis Park, 55426

Oakdale Tree Planting Saturday, May 5, 8am – 12pm

Castle Elementary, 6675 50th St. N., Oakdale, MN, 55128

Great River Greening - Invasive Removal Saturday, May 5, 8:30am – 12:30pm

Pilot Knob, Medota Heights, MN

Tree Trust - St. Louis Park Tree Distribution Saturday, May 5, 7:30am – 12:00pm

2231 Edgewood Avenue South, St. Louis Park, 55426

Oakdale Tree Planting Saturday, May 5, 8am – 12pm

Castle Elementary, 6675 50th St. N., Oakdale, MN, 55128

Great River Greening - Invasive Removal Saturday, May 5, 8:30am – 12:30pm

Pilot Knob, Medota Heights, MN

Tree Trust - Minneapolis Tree Distribution Saturday, May 12, 2012

City of Minneapolis Impound Lot - 51 Colfax Avenue

North, Minneapolis

Great River Greening - Restoration Event Saturday, May 12, 8:30am – 12:30pm

Cherokee Bluffs Regional Park, St. Paul, MN

University of Minnesota- Rochester Study Planting Saturday, May 12, 8:30am – 12:30pm or 8:30am-4:30pm

Essex Park, Rochester, MN

Tree Trust

ReForest St. Louis Park Community Planting Saturday, May 12, 9am – 12pm

Oak Hill Park 3201 Rhode Island Avenue South, St. Louis

Park, 55426

Tree Trust- Minneapolis Tree Distribution Sunday, May 13, 2012

City of Minneapolis Impound Lot - 51 Colfax Avenue

North, Minneapolis

Tree Trust - Minneapolis Tree Distribution Monday, May 14, 2:45pm – 7:15pm

City of Minneapolis Impound Lot - 51 Colfax Avenue

North

Great River Greening - Tree Planting Saturday, May 19, 8:30am – 12:30pm

Rum River Easement Property, Cambridge, MN

City of Lake Elmo and MNDot - Lake Elmo Planting Saturday, June 2, 8:45am – 1:00pm

3800 Laverne Avenue N., Lake Elmo, MN, 55042

City of Lake Elmo and MNDot - Lake Elmo Planting Saturday, June 2, 8:45am – 1:00pm

3800 Laverne Avenue N., Lake Elmo, MN, 55042

Fruits of the City - Apple Bagging Saturday, June 23, 2012

Details are to be determined. Check the website for up-

dates.

If any of these events interest you, go to the http://www.mntca.org/volunteer-opportunities/calendar/

The TCA Volunteer Calendar has great descriptions of events and

contact information for those running the events.

8

Tree Care Advisor Volunteer Hours

Current Contact Information (please fill out entirely unless you prefer to turn your hours in on the web)

Name:

Address:

City, State, Zip Code:

Email Address:

Report Duration from to example: mm/dd/yy

Return Mail Address: Tree Care Advisors

115 Green Hall

1530 Cleveland Avenue North

Saint Paul, MN 55108-6112

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