2010 Spring Home & Garden

SPRINGhome & garden

2 0 1 0

A D V E R T I S I N G S U P P L E M E N T T O T H I S W E E K N E W S P A P E R SA P R I L 2 0 1 0

ThisweekNewspapersAdvertising Supplement

April 23, 2010

��

��

��

� �� !�� "�� #�� "�$ � � ��

�� $ �� %�� &��'�� (�� )� ��' �� * &�'��

� �� &�� "�� "�� &�� '�� '� ��'�� * ��

�� !"#��$!�

� ��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� !�� "�#$�#��%� !�� "�#

2B April 23, 2010 THISWEEK ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT

��

THISWEEK ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT April 23, 2010 3B

by Erin JohnsonTHISWEEK NEWSPAPERS

As the local and organ-ic food movements have grown in popularity, so have community gardens. Last year, when the city of Eagan offered residents the chance to rent one of 12 community garden plots at Holz Farm Park, the wait-ing list quickly grew to 80. Dakota County, which offers 66 plots at Spring Lake Park Reserve in Hast-ings, has had a similar expe-rience. “This year our plots were available starting April 1 at 8 a.m., and they sold out that day,” said Doug Gross, operations coordinator for Dakota County Parks. According to the Ameri-can Community Garden-ing Association, a national nonprofit membership or-ganization, community gar-dening can improve people’s

quality of life by stimulat-ing social interaction, en-couraging self-reliance, and

producing nutritious food. Community gardens can also conserve resources and

create opportunities for rec-reation, exercise, therapy and education.

“People want to know these days where their food is coming from and they

don’t want to use pesticides, and locally grown food is

Interest in community gardens keeps on growing

Submitted photos

Community gardens can yield a bounty of fresh, organic produce, such as the 1-pound, 14-ounce tomato that grew in Eagan resident Michael Huber’s Holz Farm plot last year.

An increasing number of south metro cities, organizations are offering land for residents to flex their green thumbs

See Community, 11B

��

� ��

� ��

� ��

!�� "�� #��

��

��

��

�

��

�

��

��

�� !"#��$%&�� '( )� �* �� +�#,

��

!" �� #��$��

��

�

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�

��

��


The spring season is a time for many things, from rediscovering the great out-doors to clearing the clutter left over from another long winter. For many homeowners, that spring cleaning also means a careful examina-tion of a home’s exterior. Winter can prove especially harsh on a home’s exterior, in particular the roof. While stains on the ceiling or ob-vious leaks are easy ways to detect roof damage, many times problems with a roof are not so obvious. For ho-meowners hoping to give their roof a thorough end-of-winter examination, con-sider the following tips for recognizing roof damage. • Look on the ground surrounding the home. While it might seem odd to look down to see if a roof has been damaged, some of the most telltale signs of roof damage could be right in the yard, nearby bushes

or driveway. Strong winds, common in many regions during the winter months, can blow off shingles. Those shingles can then land in the yard, trees, bushes, drive-way, etc. In areas that receive heavy snowfall during the winter months, these shin-gles can get buried in the snow, all the while giving homeowners a false sense of security with respect to their roof. Once the snow clears, homeowners should take a walk around the property and look on the grounds for any shingles, be it full shingles or pieces of shingle. This is best done as soon as possible and definitely should be done before the first lawn mowing of the spring season. • Get on the ladder and get up on the roof. The best way to detect any roof damage is to go up on the roof. Certain roof damage

requires careful inspection, as not all roof damage an-nounces its presence via a leaky ceiling or blown off shingle. Roof damage from hail, for instance, leaves marks or dents on the shin-gles and can even crack the shingles’ tabs. Oftentimes, such damage isn’t noticeable to the naked eye, requiring a careful rooftop inspection. • Inspect for fire damage. The obvious response to be-ing advised to inspect a roof for fire damage is to ask, “Well, if my home hasn’t been on fire, how can my roof have undergone any fire damage?” Unfortunately, even a neighboring fire can cause fire damage to roofs within its proximity. Heat from a nearby fire can cause dam-age to a roof that was never actually on fire. That damage will mani-fest itself via scorch marks on the roof or areas of the roof that seem inconsis-

tent. Such inconsistencies might be the result of melt-ing, which could also have caused damage to the ma-terial beneath the shingles, be it wood or metal. Hom-eowners living in neighbor-hoods where there was a fire over the winter should look for signs of fire damage. • Inspect the roof’s sup-porting cast. Homeown-ers living in regions where heavy snowfall is common should also look at the sup-port beams in their attics. Roofs tend to take a beating in regions with heavy snow-fall, as the weight of all that snow can take its toll over time. That toll can extend to support beams in the at-tic, resulting in sagging sup-ports or cracks. Even if the roof appears to have made it through an-other harsh winter, it’s still a safe and smart bet to see how well the roof’s support-ing cast handled the harsh weather as well.

Identifying, repairing roof damage

Photo submitted

After a long winter, a roof’s inspection should extend into the attic, which could be showing signs of wear and tear, particularly in regions with heavy snowfall.

��

��

��

�� !�� " �� #�$�� %� &'�� #��& ( (�� '��& ) ��$� �) '�� %�� *�� + ��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� ,-.-./

��

��

� ��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

� ��

��

��

��

��

��

�


by Charlie RohwerSPECIAL TO THISWEEK NEWSPAPERS

If you haven’t noticed, lo-cal food is the next big thing in eating. And nothing is more local than your own backyard. It’s fresh, fun, and in the long run, inexpensive. The myriad ways to start a garden from nothing at all exist on a spectrum, from tomato water walls and micronutrient soil tests to kale in a pot (Farm-ville excluded). Minimal investment and starting simple will work, but gardening successes will en-courage sustained interest. Determining a good loca-tion, choosing what to grow, and matching plant choice with available locations are the simplest first steps to take for success. There are a few important considerations for determin-ing location of a brand new garden. First and most impor-tant is sun exposure. The sunniest spot is the best, with 6 hours or more of direct sun per day. But some

plants will tolerate shade bet-ter than others, provided ad-equate air circulation to dis-courage diseases. Leafy greens and herbs may have larger, more tender leaves with some shade, and crops that tend to prefer cool weather (broccoli and kale, for example) may enjoy a little break from the hot summer sun. Beans are another crop that can tolerate some light shade without yield reduction, and gooseberries and currants thrive in part shade. Location also matters be-cause soil matters. Testing your soil (at the University of Minnesota Soil Testing Lab, for example) will help you de-termine if your soil is suitable for growing. As a beginner in this region, if you want to put as little money in as possible but still get some food out of it, you might assume your soil is OK and not test it. (Al-though $15 now can save you headaches later!) Add a couple inches of

compost before planting, and dig it in when the soil isn’t too wet. Compost will help to buffer any problems your soil may have, and digging helps to alleviate soil compaction. If you can’t find a sunny spot with decent soil, don’t hesitate to grow food in pots. Pots can be moved and the soil can be modified as needed before planting. A potted herb garden is useful and beautiful. Even potatoes can grow in a big enough pot. Constructing a raised bed with quality topsoil and com-post is another option. Your soil needs some fertilizer to grow vigorous plants, so ask at your local garden center and follow the instructions on the bag, box, or bottle. If you’re trying to garden or-ganically, organic fertilizers, including well-rotted manure, will suit your needs fine. Water is crucial for plants. A soaker hose or drip tube next to your plants will make watering easier and reduce leaf diseases, but drip isn’t

necessary. If you are watering with tap water as the plants need it, you should try to use rain water, or at least turn your water softener off if you have one to avoid loading your soil with sodium. Pots can dry out quickly in the sun, so be sure they get enough water. Seed catalogs are delicious reading when the sun is low and the snow is deep. You can sacrifice variety but save on shipping by buying seeds locally. You can also save by sharing seed with friends and neighbors (one packet may be more than enough for one garden). When considering what to grow, especially if you have limited space, first consider what you could buy more eas-ily. Sweet corn, cabbage, and melons are probably better to buy at the farmer’s mar-ket. They’re cheap when in season and may not be worth your garden space. Then con-sider what you’ll actually use.

Backyard garden can flourish from the start

Photo submitted

Strawberries and scallions are suitable plants for a backyard garden in Minnesota. See Rowher, 11B

��

�

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

� � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � � �

�� !�" ��#� �$ % ��&%�� '# " � !�" ��#�&�!(%#� (��)�"�#� $ �)�& *� *+ �� %* � �'�# ,�*� $ %� %$�#& �� (��" �-�$ �) $ �# .-%��*� %#" � ��%/��*��* �� !�" ��#�' � #-�# �� &%� %/�-* %&+

�#"�)�"-%� &�� #* %#"! *�#� *+ �� # "$ �# *+ �� $&+ "-� � 0-� '��1 �$ # ) � 2#�$+ " -#*��

��- %� &�!(� * �� $%*�$2 "�

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� ! � "��# �� $ ��% ��&

'()*+,-*+,+( . 000*#��*��

��

%

�� ! "#��

$��%&� �� $�'

��

�� !

"!� # "�� $%% ��&� &� '�(��

��

��

�

��

��

��

��

��

� ��

� ��

� ��

� !�� "�� #�� $��% "��


by Teri KnightFROM THE GARDEN BITE

With these teasingly warm temperatures garden-ers at every level have been aching to get their garden groove on. If you’ve been in the garden game for any length of time you’ve received a “cagillion” catalogs over the winter and have been planning and plotting new plants you want to try. Half the fun of garden-ing is scoping out the new offerings. I always urge the listeners of my garden show “Garden Bite with Teri Knight” to do some re-search via the internet. You might discover that one catalog lists a perennial for Zone 4 while another calls it a Zone 5 plant. Here in the Twin Cities area we are still considered Zone 4 although there’s been discussion suggesting that we’ve become a Zone 5. I tend to err on the side of caution unless I’ve com-

pletely fallen in love with a certain plant, then I’ll try it but will add layers of mulch for winter. There are some wonder-ful new offerings for foun-dation plantings or just as stand alone accents this

year, including a lilac that will bloom twice in a sea-son and a hydrangea with blooms a foot wide. Both of these beauties were de-veloped by Proven Win-ners. “Bloomerang” is a purple

After a long winter, it’s time to get your garden groove on

Photo submitted

A new twist in the hydrangea arborescens family is a cultivar called “Incrediball,” which boasts very sturdy stems. No more flopping in the rain.

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� !�

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� !

��

�

��

��

��

�� !�" �#

!� ��$ %�&"""'�� '( ��"""'�� ( �"""�)��

��

�� !�� "��

��

beauty that’s hardy to Zone 3 and grows to just 4 feet tall and wide. A very nice compact shrub for founda-tion planting. It blooms in the spring as a typical lilac but then blooms again from midsummer to fall. Can you imagine being able to smell that wonderful scent for months? Ahhhh! It does need full sun but can tolerate wetter soils than most other lilacs. Another very interesting new twist in the hydrangea arborescens family is a cul-tivar called “Incrediball.” This North American na-tive is also hardy to Zone 3 and boasts very sturdy stems. No more flopping in the rain. Now that’s a ma-jor bonus! It grows up to 4 to 5 feet tall with blooms measured at 12 inches wide. Yes, you read that right. It will need some very sturdy stems with those size blooms. Word on the gar-den path is that this new hydrangea will take over for the very popular “Anna-belle.” It’s tolerant of light shade

You’ve perused the pleth-ora of plant catalogs and are now primed and ready for planting. I have some suggestions before you make your pur-chases. Always check your local garden centers first for the plants you want. Oftentimes these nurser-ies have grown the plants or have purchased them from areas that are more con-ducive to our climate. This is really important when you’re planting perennials, shrubs and trees as they are hardened to our climate. If you can’t find what you’re looking for at your favorite nursery ask if they know where you might be able to find it. Still no luck, don’t worry there are some very reputable out-of-state garden centers that I have ordered from. They include: Bluestone Perennials, White Flower Farm, Burpee, and Spring Hill Nursery. Wherever you buy from always inspect the plant ma-terial. You want the health-iest looking plants, that means clean green leaves, no brown or yellow spots and no webbing. Webbing or shot holes in leaves is a sign of insects, while yellowing or browning could be dis-ease or poor watering. Re-member, when you buy lo-cally you are able to return items much easier. If you buy through a Web site, you still have an opportunity to get a return or exchange, it just takes longer. Your plant material has

arrived! Wahoo. Now it’s time to plant. I want you to know that when planting shrubs and/or trees it’s very important not to plant them too deep. Something to help you re-member not to plant too deep is to realize that plants need oxygen. Oxygen is sup-plied from above the soil! Plant your plants at the same depth they were in their pot or, if bareroot, planted where the roots and the stem/trunk starts. Spread roots out horizon-tally from their stem/trunk not down vertically further into the soil. If the soil you’re plant-ing in is compacted it’s im-portant to loosen the soil. Think of being on vaca-tion and what it was like to squish your toes in the sand. That’s what roots want to do, they want to wander into the soil without having to struggle. They’re able to get oxygen, water and nutri-ents much easier when they are closer to the soil surface and can “wiggle their toes” with ease. Whatever you do, re-member, the garden is no place to stress for success, but to soak up some sun and renew your spirit.

Teri Knight is a Dakota County Master Gardener with a radio show called Gar-den Bite with Teri Knight. Her two-minute radio fea-ture is heard on KYMN-AM 1080 in Northfield and on KCHK in New Prague. E-mail her at [email protected].

Photo submitted

One can express themselves in the kinds of vegetables grown, such as purple dragon carrots.


You may not be able to afford a new home, but you can make your old one feel brand new. It’s time to freshen up your home’s exterior and give it a wel-come layer of beauty, especially if you’ve been living in it for a while. There are many ways to enliven your home and beautify its exte-rior – from new paint and decora-tive accents to attractive awnings to simply power washing away years of grime.

Refresh and revive A new paint job for your home is akin to new clothes and a haircut for you. Try new color schemes featuring accented trims. If new paint isn’t in your budget, pressure wash your home sid-ing and dingy deck. Each year, remove mildew or mold on your home’s exterior, as well as your sidewalk and driveway.

Focus on your door It’s the first thing people see when entering. If you can afford a new front door, choose one with

decorative elements, such as lead-ed glass inserts. If you can’t spring for new doors, add new hardware and fresh paint to your existing doors.

New knobs, hinges, mail slots and knockers make a big difference. Consider installing new mold-ing around your front door to make it pop. Or add a fabric aw-

ning or canopy. Not only will it set your house apart from others on the street, it will protect you and your guests from the ele-ments when coming and going.

Create an outdoor oasis No longer relegated to a few folding chairs, backyards are becoming true outdoor living rooms. Install awnings to create an outdoor oasis, while saving money on cooling costs and re-ducing your home’s carbon foot-print. A retractable awning over a deck or back window creates a comfortable seating area in which to enjoy a cool drink, a family meal or simply the great outdoors. And on hot days, shading your windows with awnings can reduce cooling energy consumption by 25 percent or more, according to the Center for Sustainable Build-ing Research at the University of Minnesota. “Homeowners needn’t make drastic changes to beautify their homes and reduce their environ-

mental impact,” says Michelle Sahlin, managing director of the Professional Awning Manu-facturers Association (PAMA). “Awnings are an easy, economi-cal upgrade to enhance livability while reducing the load on home air conditioning systems.”

Add new accents Decorative accents can lend a home new attitude. Consider lighting sconces or planters on either side of your front door, or new shutters and awnings on win-dows. And experiment with color-ful paint trim. Even a new mailbox can add flair. Choose one that reflects your personality or complements design elements of your house, such as its architectural style or prominent features. “Whether you’re simply trying to make your house more com-fortable for your family or if you enjoy entertaining guests, there are many ways to enhance your home and its outdoor living spac-es,” Sahlin said.

Small projects can beautify a home’s exterior

Photo submitted

Awnings can create an outdoor oasis, while saving on cooling costs.

��

� �� !��"� #$�%� &�� &�'$%�� ( &��)��*�� +�,$�� ( -�,.�� #�/�� &�� 0�*$�� #�� 1�.�)�,�� #��, 2$��!� ( 3�� 2$��! ( &��$� 3�� #)�� 2$��! 4��!�� 1�.�)�,�� $�� ( �� #��5$�%� #��!�� 6�)��

��

��

�� !�"�# !�� %&��"�� '#�� %��(��

��)))*��"��*��(��

��

�

��

��

� �� !"#$%!�&" ��$'#"!" �"(�%'")"$!

��

��

��

��

��

�


A garden can brighten your mood and be a perfect place in which to relax. Gar-dens need not be reserved strictly for the outdoors. Creating a sunroom garden can bring the beauty of the landscape inside your home. Sunrooms, solariums, all-season rooms, or Flori-da rooms as they are some-times called, are popular spaces in many homes. They enable the homeown-er to bring a touch of the outdoors inside, even when Mother Nature does not co-operate. Sunrooms can serve as a transition between the yard and home or simply be a tranquil place at home in which to retreat. Outfitting your sunroom with plant life is much like planning your garden or potted plants around the house. There are a few steps you should take. 1. Measure the area. You want to have a balance be-tween plants and furniture

without overwhelming the space. Don’t fill the entire room; otherwise, it can seem cluttered and confusing. 2. Determine sun con-centration. Depending on where your sunroom is lo-cated, you will have to ad-dress sunlight. Sunrooms facing south or west will get a lot of strong light during the day. Rooms facing east will get subtle morning light, while those facing north won’t have nearly as much light. Once you determine how much light your room receives, you can choose plants that will thrive there. 3. Choose your colors. Sun rooms will be enhanced mostly by the colors of foli-age and flowers. Thus, keep the walls and other decor neutral in nature so that you won’t have clashing pat-terns. Many people choose to use wicker furniture in sunrooms, but you can put a comfy armchair or a du-

rable sofa in there as well. A tabletop water fountain can add the effect of a bab-bling brook. Throw pillows and blankets in your choice of color can make the room seem lived in, as opposed to being a glorified porch. 4. Choose containers. Remember, most of your plants will be potted plants, and thus you should allow for ample growth by choos-ing containers that are larg-er than your plant; ones the plant can grow into. Choose the same materi-al in pots or go with a simi-lar color palette. Container plants will need to be wa-tered more frequently than plants growing right in the ground. Specimens that are in a sunroom that receives a lot of sunlight that is quite warm may need even more water. Use the finger test in soil to determine what plants need to be watered. 5. Use window treat-ments. A sunroom doesn’t

have to be exposed all of the time. Sheer window treatments or shades or blinds that can be pulled closed allow you to create privacy when you desire it. Feel free to sit in your sunroom even when the sun sets. A vented gas stove can be lit on chilly nights, if you prefer to use the sunroom year-round. 6. Purchase no-fuss plants. Many varieties of plants are perfect for in-dividuals who simply do not have the greenest of thumbs. If you need some inspiration and help getting your indoor garden to grow, consider these plants. • Cast iron plant (Aspi-distra elatior) • Christmas cactus (Zy-gocactus) • Lucky bamboo (Dra-caena sanderian) • Snake plant (Sansevie-ria) • Pothos (Epipremnum) • Spider plant (Chloro-phytum comosum)

Sunroom planting requires some special steps

Photo submitted

Choosing the correct potted plants is an important part of creating a sunroom that’s sure to help homeowners relax and relieve stress.

��

�

��

�� !��"��

#$"�"� ��$��% #�� "&��'(��)� ��+�� "��

��

��

� ��

� �� !"#��

� �� $��

��

�� %� &�� '��(� ��

� �� )�* � �� &�� '��* +��

� $�� #�� ,��-��

�� !�" � #$� �� & &�� '��

�� (�� ) �� * �� +��,

��

�

��

� ��

��

��

��

��

��

�� ! "�#$��

��

��

�� !��

��

��

��

��

�


��

�

��

�� !��"#�� $�� %�� "�&� ��#�� '�� &��(�� )� �� "� ��*��

��

��

��

��

��

��

�� !�� "# ��

�� !"�� !�� !�� #$ ��%

+�� ,�)�� &�� +� +�� -��)��"� ,��.��))��"�� "�� $�� '�

��

��

��

��

�� !"#��!��!!�!�� $ %�� &�� '�� %�� (((��)�� )��

��

��

�� ! ��

��

�"��

�� #��

��$��%&��'(%��)*��

'�+ (&*% ,�-�.+�� / ! �� 0��

�� 12�3 4 567��

� ��

�� !��

Simple steps to creating a rain gardenRain gardens can liven up a yard while preventing pollution from entering lakes and streams

by Jessica HarperTHISWEEK NEWSPAPERS

Water pollution is an constant challenge in urban areas. One way homeowners can help prevent pollut-ants from entering storm water systems is by creat-ing rain gardens, which are landscaped areas planted with wild flowers and native plants that soak up rain wa-ter from rooftops. By soaking up rain water, the garden prevents run-off from entering storm drains that flow into nearby lakes and rivers. The following is an sim-ple guide to creating a rain garden: Select a site and check for utility lines — there will be some digging involved. Ideally, the site should be on a gentle slope that catch-es water from the home’s drain spout. Creating a rain garden

in a place that already col-lects water will be ineffec-tive, though, because wet patches show where water

is already slow to infiltrate, according to the University of Wisconsin Extension. The goal of a rain garden

is to absorb water, not cre-ate a small pond. Ideally, a rain garden should also be in full or par-

tial sunlight, according to Mike Isensee, urban conser-vationist for Dakota Coun-ty Soil and Water Conserva-tion District. The garden’s proximity to surrounding homes also needs to be considered. Some cities, such as Burnsville, require all gar-dens to be 5-feet from a neighboring property. The site must be at least 10 feet from the house to prevent water from seeping into the foundation. Do not place the rain garden directly over a septic system. The slope of the prop-erty is another factor when choosing a location for a rain garden. Test the drainage of the site by digging a hole 6-inches deep and filling it with water. If it takes more than 24 hours to soak in, it is not suitable for a rain gar-den.

Next decide on a size. A typical rain garden ranges from 100 to 300 square feet, but can be slightly smaller depending upon plant va-riety, according to the Uni-versity of Wisconsin. Consider the time and cost you want to dedicate to the garden when choosing a size. Also consider how the design and size of the garden will complement the rest of your landscape. Choose a width that will suit the size of the lawn. A

Photo submitted

Both the Dakota County Soil and Water Conservation District and city of Burnsville offer grants to residents who create rain gardens. For more information on Dakota County’s program, visit www.dakotaswcd.org or call (651) 480-7777. For more information on Burnsville’s program, visit www.ci.burnsville.mn.us or call Daryl Jacobson at (952) 895-4574.

Photo submitted

Any variety of plants can be used in a rain garden but native flowers and grasses such as blazing star and little blue stem are preferred varieties for their heartiness and benefit to the environment.

See Rain, 10B

10B April 23, 2010 THISWEEK ADVERTISING SUPPLEMENT ��

��

��

��

��

� �� !� "# $"!% �"&�� '��!�$ "# $"!% �"&�� #!�!%� &�()��)�)*� *"+�+� �� $"!% "��%�� )�%,$ '(��+

��

��

�� !��! �"" ��#$��

�� !�!

��

��

�� "�� !�!

��

�� !��

��

�-.� �� /� ��

� �� !"�� !�� #��$%��"&�� %�� '�� (��

� )��" �!�� * (��

��.� �� /� ��(� (��

� ��!! * %�� '�!�� !!��+�� !�� #��

� ��!�� !(�� !!�� '�+�!

��

�� ,��! ��(�� +�� !! ��+� #�� '� � !��(�� !��"�, &��(#- .�� (�� (/0��!�(# ��!�� (�� 1(�� '�!� (�� !(�� ,��' (�� (� ��!��(�� , (�� ,��!��(- �� !# �!�� (�� (�� 2�& �� (!# ��(� �� +�� ,��-

�� 0��!�(#��"'�� ,��!��' �� (� ��( ��-

��)�� 33�� 4 ��

#$��%��#&!��'%�

()

��

��

typical rain garden is about 10 feet wide but can be 15 feet wide maximum, espe-cially for lawns with more than an 8 percent slope. The garden should be twice as long as it is wide. The slope of the lawn will determine the depth of the garden (see box). After outlining the area, try working in 5-foot sec-tions to make the work more manageable. While digging, create a berm around three sides of the garden to hold in water during storms. Any variety of plants can be planted in a rain garden, but native varieties are ide-al. The garden will be more effective if you plant vegeta-tion with established root systems. Isensee recommends planting vegetation that thrive on moist environ-ments in the interior of the garden and plants that thrive on slightly moist to dry conditions for the outer

portion of the garden. Choose a variety of plants that bloom at dif-fering times of the season to keep the garden full of color. To create a colorful bor-der, Isensee recommends using native flowers such as butterfly milkweed or blaz-ing star. Butterfly milkweed is a 24-inch tall plant with or-ange flowers that blooms in June and July, and attracts monarch butterflies.

Blazing star is a purple spiky flower that grows up to 5-feet tall and blooms in late summer and early fall. Isensee recommends purchasing blazing star from local growers because those sold at greenhouses are typically not native to Minnesota. For sandy or dryer ar-eas of the garden, Insens-ee recommends planting Prairie Smoke, which is a 6-inch high pink flower that blooms at the end of April

and early May. There are several grant programs available that provide assistance to those wanting to create a rain gar-den. Each year, the Dakota County Soil and Water Conservation District offers a maximum $250 grant for residents seeking to create a rain garden. To obtain the grant, resi-dents must attend a series of workshops where they learn how to design and build a rain garden. This year’s program ended in March, but in-terested residents can sign up for next year’s classes, which span from January to March. For more information on the Dakota County Soil and Water Conservation grant program, visit www.dako-taswcd.org or call (651) 480-7777. The city of Burnsville has a similar program called the Neighborhood Water Resource Enhance-ment grant program that offers 10, $1,000 grants for

various water enhancement projects, including rain gar-dens. The deadline for that program is April 30. For more information

on the Neighborhood Wa-ter Resource Enhancement grant program, visit www.ci.burnsville.mn.us or call Daryl Jacobson at (952) 895-4574.

Rain/from 9B

University of Wiscon-sin Extension experts rec-ommend the following for finding the slope: • Pound one stake in at the uphill end of a rain garden site and another stake in at the downhill end. The stakes should be 15 feet apart. • Tie a string to the bottom of the uphill stake and run the string to the downhill stake. • Using a string level or a carpenter’s level, make the string horizontal and tie the string to the down-hill stake at that height. • Measure the width (in inches) between the two stakes • Measure the height (in inches) on the down-

hill stake between the ground and the string • Divide the height by the width and multiply the result by 100 to find the lawn’s percent slope. If the slope is more than 12 percent, it is best to pick a new location due to the effort it will take to level the garden. Use the slope of the lawn to select the depth of the rain garden. Here are a few options suggested by the Univer-sity of Wisconsin Exten-sion: If the slope is 4 percent, dig 3 to 5 inches deep. If the slope is 5 to 7 percent, dig 6 to 7 inches deep. If the slope is 8 to 12 inches, dig 8 inches deep.

IN BRIEF

Photo submitted

Rain gardens are a great way to add beauty to your yard, attract butterflies and prevent pollutants from entering the storm water systems, which flow into local lakes and rivers.


usually the freshest and the best,” said Mary Montagne, Dakota County Public Health promotions supervisor. “It’s also a connecting place for the community and can help break down barriers.” Community gardens can also be an economical choice during a recession. “People can grow their own fresh vegetables at a cost sav-ings rather than buying them at a grocery store,” Gross said. Community gardeners are responsible for their own plots and must abide by their gar-den’s rules, which typically in-clude restrictions on the use of pesticides and herbicides and the planting of perennials or trees. Eagan resident Michael Hu-ber is a devoted fan of commu-nity gardening and has been renting one of the city’s garden plots for the past two years. An empty nester who lives in a townhome, Huber said there are many reasons he par-ticipates in a community gar-den: it’s fun, it’s a pleasant con-nection to the soil and the food

he’s eating, and the produce is “dynamite.” “It looks good, it tastes good, and it’s the right price,” he said. “It’s such a bargain, and the quality is outstand-ing.” While south metro resi-dents have high-quality pro-duce available at local grocery stores, he said, community gar-dens offer an economical ap-proach to supplementing food on the table. And the variety can’t be beat. “Like with our tomatoes, we can just have a greater variety of types of tomatoes, and the flavor directly off the vine is just superb,” he said. “When you can pluck it off the vine, there’s nothing like it.” In addition to Eagan and Dakota County, Burnsville and Farmington also offer plots to residents for a small rental fee. This is the first year Farming-ton has offered a community garden. Other cities, such as Rose-mount, don’t have community gardens yet but hope to add some in the future. “We are looking into it,”

said Dan Schultz, director of the Rosemount Parks and Rec-reation Department, who said the idea of community gardens has picked up a lot of steam recently. “They can really be a benefit to people in the com-munity.” But community gardens aren’t just for apartment and townhome dwellers who want to flex their green thumbs. Some see a higher purpose, such as using them to provide fresh food to low-income fami-lies or to help supplement food shelves. Several churches and other organizations in the south met-ro have established community gardens for the specific pur-pose of benefitting others. Dakota County this year awarded grants for community gardens, giving preference to those that will help people in need. Two local organizations, the Eagan Resource Center and Project Foodstock in Lakeville, were among the nine grant re-cipients and will use the funds to grow fresh vegetables for their food shelves. Open Circle Church in

Burnsville also received a grant from the county to start a com-munity garden as part of its overall landscaping plan. The church’s 20 plots – which have already filled up for this year – were open to the public, but the church intentionally targeted immigrant communi-ties and low-income families to sign up. The church itself will have two plots to grow food for local food shelves. The grant includes an on-site scale to weigh the amount of food being donated, said Pastor Jay Steele. “It’s just a natural fit that churches try to serve their communities by opening up their land,” he said. “It’s going to be good for the church and the communities.” For more information on community gardens or to find a community garden near you, contact Gardening Matters, an organization supporting com-munity gardeners across the Twin Cities, at (612) 492-8964, or visit www.gardeningmatters.org.

Erin Johnson is at [email protected].

Community/from 3B

Weekly planting of a mesclun mix make a delicious, recurring salad. Day-neutral strawberries will give you a few berries for your cereal every morning. Also consider who else might be using your garden. If want to teach your kids about food, radishes or kohlrabi make a great first crop. They mature quickly and are simple to grow. Bush beans are good for kids because they can be picked over and over (and are delicious straight from the plant). Also consider your ability to start seeds yourself before buying seeds. Tomatoes should be grown from transplants, while spinach does fine directly sown in the gar-den, for example. Getting started with a garden is as sim-ple as making a space, finding something you want to grow, and matching those two needs. The most important step is to gain encouragement from small successes, then expand on your success the following year. To that end, I think beets are the best place to start. A boiled beet tastes like sweet soil. The sweetness will make you want more, and the soil will remind you that you grew it yourself.

Charlie Rohwer, Ph.D., is a scientist with the University of Minnesota, Southern Re-search and Outreach Center in Waseca.

Rowher/from 5B

��

��

� �� !�"�� #�� $��%

&�$�� '��(��$ )��

��

!!!%*��!��%#�$

+,��-� +.��/�-�01

��

��

�� !�� #�

��$�� %

� &� �� '�� !��(�� %� �� )��

�!�� %� �� '� � !$ �� %� * � �$ �# � � ��%

+�� ,-./0 12134.-1 � +�� ,5/.0 -2536754 ��%� ��8�� (�� %� � � �� %� ��8�� (�� %� �

��

��

��

�

��

��

��

��

��

� ��

��

��

��

�


��

�� !"�#� $%&'(%& )"��* ��"+"�� '��

��

��!"�#!$$�%��

��

��

�

��

�

� �� ! ��" #��" ��

$�� $��

��

��

�� !"��

��%&��'�� %�� ()*!+(,!+--+

��

�

Documents

2010 Spring Home & Garden