20 February 2017 Issue 6 cosmeticsbusiness.com NEWS · Lucy Tandon Copp Reporter Sarah Parsons Sub Editor Austyn King Contributors Patricia Mansfield-Devine Art Editor Sibylla Duffy

Six new influencers have partnered with the brand for its #GotItCovered campaignas it launches its new Infallible Total Cover Foundation and Total Concealer Palette

L’ORÉAL PARIS SIGNS INFLUENCERS

@cb_beautynews Cosmetics Business cosmeticsbusinesss

The US’ Church & Dwight has acquired hair growthsupplements brand Viviscalfrom Ireland-based Lifes2good,in a deal worth u150m.

In 2016, the Viviscal brandenjoyed a 33% increase in salesglobally on the back of itsgrowing business in the US.Entrepreneur James Murphy,Founder of Lifes2good, said ofthe sale: “We are delighted thatChurch & Dwight... will leadthe brand in its next phase ofdevelopment.” Viviscal iscurrently sold in more than30,000 locations globally.

20 February 2017 Issue 6 cosmeticsbusiness.com

NEWSPEOPLE 11TRESemmé signs celebrityhairstylist Justine Marjan

BUSINESS 2Coty misses Q2 2017 earningsfollowing P&G deal

COMMENT 5The Body Shop: What went wrong?

EXPERT ADVICE 7P&G talks the future ofsustainability

To promote its latest colour cosmeticslaunches, L’Oréal Paris has teamed up withsix new influencers.

The line-up includes: Kaushal Beauty, PatriciaBright, Jamie Genevieve, Jake Jamie, Rady andLouisa Johnson. The influencers feature in a TVad, and will also appear in print marketingincluding in-store visuals in Superdrug and Boots.

L’Oréal is promoting its new Infallible TotalCover Foundation and Total Concealer Paletteproduct launches, which provide full foundationcoverage able to mask redness, acne, shine,uneven skin tone and tattoos.

The products come in a variety of shades tosuit different skin tones, with colours includingRadiant Beige and Cappuccino.

The promotional ad features the six influencersand text that flags up their main skin concern. Aneon pink strip then crosses the screen presentingeach influencer wearing the foundation andlooking flawless, before the hashtag#GotItCovered flashes up.

It is the second time that L’Oréal Paris hassigned a male influencer to a campaign. InSeptember last year, the brand released its#YoursTruly campaign featuring 23 of the UK’smost influential and inspirational individuals. Thebrand’s first male model Gary Thompson wasamong those signed, which led to widespreadpress coverage. Jake Jamie, who runs the blog TheBeauty Boy, is the latest male ambassador to workwith L’Oréal Paris.

Church & Dwightacquires Viviscal

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MyShowcase has revealed ambitious plansfor the £1m it recently secured afterrunning a crowdfunding campaign on

Crowdcube.The company, which sells products via its

website and network of ‘stylists’, recentlyrecorded the highest ever beauty related raise viathe crowdfunding platform, while simultaneouslybecoming the first to close £1m in 2017.

Talking to Cosmetics Business, NancyCruickshank, Co-Founder and CEO, said: “Thereally significant new areas that we will invest inis really starting to bring our personal shoppingservice to life digitally.”

She continued: “Our website today isfunctionally very robustbecause one of my businesspartners is Olivier Beau deLoménie, who is our CTOand my Co-Founder, and helearned technology atOcado. He built the wholetechnology there and ran itfor seven years. So he’s a bitof a rock star softwareengineer.

“But we haven’t spent anytime really finessing thatconsumer experience and Ithink we are about to start tosee that change on the site.”

Coty reported net revenues of $2.29bn in Q22017, up 90% compared to the prior year period.

The results are the first to be released since thecompletion of Coty’s takeover of P&G’s beautybusiness. The deal involved a handover of 41brands for approximately $12.5bn.

However, Coty’s Q2 EPS fell short of the markat $0.30, coming in under the $0.33 that analystspredicted. As a result, shares in the companyplummeted in the days after the announcement.

Coty put this down to short term transitionalimpacts including higher-than-expectedinventory levels in the market on the P&Gbeauty business, as well ascompetitive pressure in theconsumer beauty division and“distraction” due to themerger.

In an earnings call, CEOCamillo Pane said: “Althoughfiscal 2017 is a transitionalyear, we have already startedto tackle the growthchallenges of our business.”

Pane also said he expectedthe net revenue decline to slowdown in H2 of fiscal 2017.

MyShowcase currently operates with a networkof 1,600 stylists who sell products to the generalpublic by holding Showcase events and throughtheir own websites within myshowcase.com.

Cruickshank explained that new stylists areoffered a kit when they sign up. “The propositionis you spend £149 and we give you about £350worth of products, plus marketing materials froma white table cloth to printed beauty books andcatalogues,” she said.

“We will be developing more content. Wedevelop tonnes of it now, but largely that’sdirected at stylists to really build their knowledgeand they then share with their customers.

“But we’ll develop more of that that they canthen pass along but likewisecan also be utilised directly bycustomers.”

Stylists are supported withcontent that helps them buildtheir knowledge of theproducts and partner brands,which now total more than 50including Percy & Reed,Neom, Legology, New CID,Face Stockholm, Kure Bazaarand more. Four new brandsare due to join MyShowcasein the coming months,including one make-up brandand three skin care brands.

COTY MISSES Q2 2017 EARNINGSFOLLOWING P&G DEAL

Alibaba opens Australian andNew Zealand headquarters

BUSINESS

2 cosmetics business 20 February 2017

Alibaba Group, the operator of e-commerceplatform Tmall and Taobao, has opened itsAustralian and New Zealand headquarters inMelbourne, Australia.

Tmall, Alibaba’s consumer retail website, ishome to more than 1,300 Australian and 400 NewZealand brands. Founder and Executive ChairmanJack Ma said: “Australia will always have a specialplace in my heart and that’s why I am so pleasedto come back to contribute to supportingAustralian businesses to create opportunities andjobs in a country that has meant so much for me.

“Whether a large company with existing links toChina or a mum-and-dad-run exporter operatingout of a garage, Alibaba Group is here to make iteasy to do business anywhere.”

The new HQ is on Collins Street and the teamwill be headed up by Maggie Zhou, Australianand New Zealand Managing Director. At theopening, Ma also signed a memorandum ofunderstanding with Australia Post to helpAustralian businesses grow their internationalpresence. The agreement will see Alibaba workwith Australia Post to develop the first Australianmarketplace within the Lazada e-commercenetwork in Southeast Asia.

MYSHOWCASE REVEALS AMBITIOUS PLANS

EditorLucy Tandon Copp

ReporterSarah Parsons

Sub EditorAustyn King

ContributorsPatricia Mansfield-Devine

Art EditorSibylla Duffy

Digital ProductionNita Salem

Head of Print & Digital Production

Ross Murdoch

Managing DirectorColin Bailey-Wood

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ISSN 2057-1984

NEWS20 February 2017

Issue 6

cosmeticsbusiness.com


CODE Beautiful, a UK-based beauty brand, hasrevealed plans to expand

into Europe, appointingdistributors in four newterritories: Spain, Sweden,Denmark and France.

The brand has chosen its localdistributors carefully in the hopethat the expansion will further itsgoal of “pushing manufacturingboundaries to create products thatare better than anything outthere”. Channels include: fashionretailers, high end pharmaciesand independent beauty salons.

Co-Founder Sarah Cross explained: “Part ofthe reason we’ve been so selective about ourstockists and brand collaborations is because webelieve CODE Beautiful should remain focusedon originality and independence, ensuring wemaintain our authenticity. We see 2017 as a keyyear for the brand and will continue to drive newproduct development and our global presence.”

Walmart’s CEO Doug McMillon recently metwith President Trump as part of the first businesscouncil at the White House.

McMillon was said to have described the meetas “constructive” and “candid”, according toReuters. “I look forward to continued discussionswith the administration, consistent with our longstanding belief that it’s always better to beengaged in trying to shape solutions than sittingon the sidelines,” McMillon said in a statementafter the meeting.

Other business leaders present includedStephen Schwarzman of Blackstone, JPMorganChase’s Jamie Dimon, Tesla’s Elon Musk andGeneral Motors’ Mary Barra.

In a press conference, Trump said that therewere 227,000 jobs created in the US in January –the best figures since September. In January,Walmart announced plans to createapproximately 10,000 retail jobs through theopening of 59 new, expanded and relocatedWalmart and Sam’s Club stores and e-commerceservices. Trump said: “There’s a great spirit in thecountry right now, so we’re very happy aboutthat. We’re bringing back jobs, we’re bringingdown your taxes, we’re getting rid of yourregulations and I think it’s going to be some veryexciting times ahead.”

Walmart has not previously commentedpublicly on Trump and his administration.However, The Financial Times reported thatcongressional aides said the retailer sent “top taxexecutives” to warn decision-makers that Trump’simport tax proposal would impact business.

Cross added that the expansion is expected to be“a huge success”.

The brand is hoping to build on the positiveword-of-mouth and social media buzz generatedby its launch in the UK and Ireland, and haschosen key partners across Europe who will workwith beauty influencers or ‘seeders’ to promote itsproducts to the public.

WALMART CEO MEETS TRUMP TO TALK ECONOMY AND JOBS

NEWS IN BRIEF

EUROFRAGANCE, theCatalan fragrance design

and creation company, sawturnover grow by 9% in 2016

to reach u68.8m. Thecompany saw significant

growth in areas ofexpansion. This included

sales boosts in Asia Pacificand America, both areaswhere Eurofragance is

making heavy investment.The company recentlyopened a new plant in

Singapore, while increasingproduction capacity at its

Mexico factory. Eurofragancehas grown its workforce by14.4% to 254 employees.

L'ORÉAL recently celebratedthe 20th anniversary of its

launch into China, announcingplans to become more Chineseconsumer-centric. As part of theShanghai celebration, L’Oréalannounced the L’Oréal ChinaWomen Empowerment Fund, in partnership with the China

Women’s DevelopmentFoundation. The fund will

finance 20 projects acrossChina, dedicated to helping and empowering women.

CALLCARE has revealednew insight into what

consumers expect when itcomes to customer service.The telephone answering

solutions provider found thatbetween 2014 and 2016,customers have started

seeking customer servicemore on Saturdays. Data

reveals that there is a 60%increase in the number of

customer service calls madeon this day. Saturday has

become almost as busy as anormal working day for acustomer service adviserbetween 9am and 6pm.

However, consumers are notbound by these hours andare increasingly seeking

help outside of them, withcalls coming in as early as7am and as late as 8pm.

BUSINESS

20 February 2017 cosmetics business 3

AMOREPACIFIC, the Korean cosmeticscompany behind brands including Etude,Laneige and innisfree, has confirmedoverall sales growth of 18.3% in 2016.

The company has benefited from strongsales globally, with reported sales reachingKRW6.69 trillion and operating profit ofKRW1.82 trillion. Looking at the breakdownof AmorePacific’s operations, overseasbusiness experienced high growth thanksto five “champion brands”, said thecompany. These brands includeSulwhasoo, Laneige, Mamonde, innisfreeand Etude.

In Asia, sales growth was 38% year-on-year, while in North America, 10% wasachieved. In Europe, there was 4% growth.But domestic sales remain the company’sstrength, with sales in Korea totalling KRW4trillion, up 12%. While luxury business andpremium business performed well,strengthened by the opening of newSulwhasoo stores and strongtravel retail figures, massbusiness saw sales decline.

A toothpaste recall inSeptember last year and asluggish performance forthe oral care sector werecited as the key factorsbehind this.

AmorePacific has alsorecently lost the license toLolita Lempicka. Lastmonth rumours werecirculating that it was to layoff 81 employees from itsFrench subsidiary.

CODE BEAUTIFUL ENTERS NEW MARKETS


Pop icon Kylie Minogue haswon a legal battle againstsocial media influencer and

reality TV star Kylie Jenner – atleast, for the time being.

Jenner lodged a trademarkapplication to use the name Kylie inthe US on 1 April 2015, which wasswiftly opposed by Minogue.

On 6 February, the Patent Officerejected Jenner’s application,although Jenner’s team has alreadyfiled an appeal, The Daily Mailreported.

Jenner has a growing beautyempire, with her hero product beingher Lip Kits. She recently opened abricks-and-mortar pop-up in LAfeaturing a rainbow Lip Kit Wall.

Minogue’s lawyers rebuked the 2015application, stating that Jenner is a “secondaryreality television personality who appeared on thetelevision series Keeping Up With the Kardashiansas a supporting character, to Ms Jenner’s half-sisters Kim, Khloe and Kourtney Kardashian”.

The filing continued by claiming that Minogueis known worldwide simply as Kylie, whereasJenner has drawn criticism from the DisabilityRights and African-American communities forher controversial posts and photographic

exhibitionism on social media.On the other hand, the document

acknowledged the pop singer is an“internationally renowned performing artist,humanitarian and breast cancer activist”, andreasserted the fact that Minogue has achievedworldwide record sales of over 80 million singlesand albums.

The filing also noted that Minogue alreadyowns the US trademark for Kylie in educationand entertainment, as well as music recordingsand jewellery.

THE TWO KYLIES BATTLE OVER TRADEMARKCHURCH & DWIGHT, the

parent company behindbrands including Batiste andViviscal, has announced its

Q4 and full-year 2016figures. The company sawEPS grow 13.6% to $1.75 per share, while adjustedEPS was $1.77 per share,exceeding expectations. Full year sales grew 2.9%

to $3.45bn. The Batiste dryshampoo brand was credited

for helping boost thecompany’s organic sales

both domestically andinternationally.

ELEMENTIS, a UK specialtychemicals heavyweight, hasacquired SummitReheis, a

supplier of specialty additives inthe antiperspirant and personalcare market. SummitReheis hasstrong customer relationships

with big names in the cosmeticsindustry including Unilever,

P&G, L’Oréal, Colgate-Palmolive and Beiersdorf. More

than 60% of SummitReheis’sales are generated by its

antiperspirant actives business.Elementis has paid US$360m tobuy SummitReheis, creating an

enlarged personal carebusiness with annual sales of

roughly $200m. Paul Waterman,CEO of Elementis, said:

“Together with our existingbusiness, the acquisition of

SummitReheis is transformativefor our personal care business.”

APTARGROUP hasannounced its Q4 and full-year results for 2016. The

dispensing product providerreported a 1% decline in

sales to $539m from $547mthe year prior, while reported

earnings per share grew 13% to $0.77. Annual

reported sales grew 1%,while reported annual

earnings per share grew to$3.17, up 5%. The Beauty +Home segment continued tobe affected by “challengingconditions” across markets.

Symrise, a Germany-based fragrancemanufacturer, has become one of the firstcompanies to sign the Business and BiodiversityPledge, affirming its commitment to preservingand protecting the diversity of natural habitats,ecosystems, plant and animal species.

The pledge is a voluntary commitment to actin accordance with the core goals of the UNConvention on Biological Diversity (CBD),which was created to prevent further loss ofbiological diversity around the world.

Its main objectives are the conservation ofbiological diversity; the sustainable use of naturalresources; and the fair and equitable sharing ofthe benefits gained from these resources.

Symrise’s business model is affected by theincreasing loss of biodiversity both directly andindirectly, the company said, and its decision tosign the pledge will shape its sustainabilitystrategy going forwards. Hans Holger Gliewe,Chief Sustainability Officer at Symrise, said:“Symrise has been dedicated to protectingbiodiversity and natural habitats for many years.

“We want to continue to bolster protecting theenvironment and natural resources inconjunction with our core business, which is whywe are among the first to sign the Business andBiodiversity Pledge.”


SYMRISE SIGNS BUSINESS AND BIODIVERSITY PLEDGE

NEWS IN BRIEF

BUSINESS©

Renan K

atayama

JOHNSON &JOHNSON (J&J)has announcedplans to switchfrom plastic topaper stem cottonbuds to help fightthe growingenvironmentalissues the plasticvarieties cause.

Plastic cotton buds are causingsignificant damage to public health,according to Scotland-basedenvironmental charity Fidra, as they endup on beaches and in the sea after beingflushed down the toilet by consumers.

The plastic buds are a danger to marinelife when eaten and pose a public healthrisk as they absorb harmful chemicalswhen passing through the sewage systemand onto beaches. Following discussionswith Fidra, which runs The Cotton BudProject, J&J is seekig a solution to theseproblems by switching to paper stems andcampaigning to educate consumers aboutproper cotton bud disposal.

Using paper cotton buds instead ofplastic will ensure that those that areflushed will become waterlogged andsettle out of wastewater, instead ofwashing up on beaches.



COMMENT

THE BODY SHOP: WHAT WENT WRONG?L’Oréal is selling The Body Shop, just over a decade after it shelled out £652m to buy it. Dame Anita Roddick founded the brand in1976 and saw it flourish, as consumers flocked to buy its trusty body butters and fruity scents. Come 2016, however, and The BodyShop’s sales have dropped 4.8% to 3920.8m – a diminishing piece of L’Oréal’s takings. So what happened to this heritage brand?

“Whenever I see The Body Shop todayI feel nostalgic. Satsuma bubble bathsand strawberry Born Lippys remind mefondly of my youth, but I wouldn’t buythem today. The brand’s main problemis that it didn’t run with its own conceptsoon enough and failed to grow up withits early customers. The brand wasonto a great thing under Anita Roddick,ahead of its time with its natural andethical values. But L’Oréal was too slow,or perhaps unwilling, to refresh brandingor market exciting formulas to new andexisting customers. All the while, theUK market has been catching up andnow natural and organic beauty iswidespread. There’s still hope for TheBody Shop – it’s doing well in certainmarkets – but investment is required.”

“I am not convinced The Body Shopfitted easily within L’Oréal’s portfolio.Some customers were disappointed byits acquisition in 2006, sceptical overwhether it would remain cruelty-free – a core value of The Body Shop – andfrustrated about it falling into the handsof a corporate. It was awkward then,and still feels that way today. The BodyShop has underperformed for L’Oréal,and one reason for this is that itspositioning as a natural and ethicalbrand has not been strong enough tocompete with the tidal wave of otherbrands that washed in with the naturaland organic uprising. Before the marketcaught up, The Body Shop had adistinct point of difference. Whoeverbuys it needs to create a new one.”

“‘Nobody talks of entrepreneurship assurvival, but that’s exactly what it is andwhat nurtures creative thinking’. AnitaRoddick’s words are sadly relevant toThe Body Shop’s current situation. Thebrand has become an armchair on thehigh street – a comforting cup of tearather than an energising caffeineboost. Under L’Oréal, store growthtrumped brand and productdevelopment growing from 2,000 tomore than 3,000 stores. Unfortunately,the brand suffered a serious case oftunnel vision, ignoring the growth in thenatural beauty sector. Hopefully bybecoming free of its mogul owners,survival mode will kick back in andRoddick’s progressive ethos will beremembered in the brand’s revival.”

“THE BRANDSUFFERED A CASEOF TUNNEL VISION”~ Sarah Parsons, Reporter

“IT DIDN’T RUN WITHITS OWN CONCEPTSOON ENOUGH”~ Lucy Tandon Copp, Editor

“ITS POSITIONINGHAS NOT BEENSTRONG ENOUGH”~ Jo Allen, Editor


CLARINS has opened its first outlet in the US, in the King of Prussia Mall in Pennsylvania. The mall is the largest in the US and houses 400 stores, including department stores such asNeiman Marcus, and four food courts with 40 eateries.

The Clarins concession measures around 170sqm and includes a 25sqm open spa at its centrewhere customers can receive 30-minute facials. Customers can find the full Clarins range,including sun protection and men’s products, as well as a special section for travel products. Natalie Bader, President of the Clarins Group, said: “We want to be able to listen to [customers],offer personalised advice and have a chance to really pamper them.”

A new manual diagnostic tool and personalised coaching about Clarins’ application methods forskin care and make-up will also be available. The company opened its first free standing store inHong Kong in November last year and says it has plans for a similar outlet in Paris.

The new Clarins store is part of a large luxury wing expansion in the King of Prussia Mall.Bottega Veneta, Gucci and Oliver Peoples are due to take up residence in the new wing in 2017.

NEWS IN BRIEF

DR. HAUSCHKA, theorganic and natural skin

care brand, is celebrating its50th anniversary with a pop-

up space due to open inMarch. The brand will alsobe unveiling a completelynew category in the same

month. Dr. Hauschka iscertified natural and organicby Natrue. Three of its RoseDay Creams are sold every

two minutes globally and thebrand’s products are sold in

45 countries worldwide.

DR DENNIS GROSS, a NewYork-based dermatologist withan eponymously named skin

care brand, launched hisproducts in Selfridges in the UK

earlier this month. The retaildeal includes the exclusive

London debut of the new four-sku product line C+Collagen,

which comprises a serum, mist,moisturiser and eye cream. TheUS brand has been available inthe UK for ten years. To supportthe expansion into Selfridges,Gross, and his wife and CEO

Carrie Gross, will offerconsultations and treatments inthe high end retailer’s BeautyRoom. Dr Dennis Gross skincare is sold in 17 countriesthrough outlets includingSephora, Space NK and

Net-a-Porter.

LIPPULAIVA, a shopping centre located

in Espoonlahti in Helsinki,Finland, is due to undergo acomplete demolishment andrebuild under developmentcompany Citycon Oyj. Theproject will result in doublethe gross leasable area at40,000sqm, with a cost ofapproximately u200m. Thecentre will re-open in 2020and over 60% has so far

been pre-leased. The centrewill have a strong focus on

grocery stores including Lidl.

Baobab takes a shine to UKLuxury candle brand Baobab Collection isopening its first UK store in London this April.

The Belgian brand is primarily available inLondon via premium department stores, such asHarrods and Selfridges. However, the brand isplanning for the new Knightsbridge location tobecome its second flagship store.

“It was natural for us to open a second flagshipin London to truly develop our visibilityworldwide,” said Corinne Bensahel, Senior VicePresident Marketing and Brand Development forBaobab Collection.

Customers will be able to purchase the fullBaobab Collection and explore the debut of thesummer collection, Mikea. The brand claims tospecialise in ‘handcrafted’ candles, as each onehas been hand poured into glass vases created byartisan glass blowers. For its latest collection, thebrand has worked with a Madagascan cooperativeto create the products. The cooperative willreceive a percentage of the candle sales.

Marie Claire, a Time Inc consumer magazinebrand, is attracting premium beauty fans throughits new Fabled by Marie Claire beauty offering.

The brand’s website, where consumers canbuy beauty products, is supported by a physicalretail space in the West End of London, UK.Brands available include Estée Lauder, BobbiBrown, Urban Decay, NARS and Perricone MD.

Justine Southall, Time Inc UK’s ManagingDirector, Fashion & Beauty, said: “Fabled byMarie Claire is attracting premium beauty fansacross the country. Getting the magazine intotheir hands while they are in the Fabled by MarieClaire environment is a fantastic marketingopportunity for our print product.”

Fabled by Marie Claire launched last year inpartnership with grocery retailer Ocado. Thephysical store is a two-floor 7,200sqft space onTottenham Court Walk. It marks Ocado’s secondbricks-and-mortar location, with its other beingfocused on its pet business Fetch.

MARIE CLAIRE LURES PREMIUMBEAUTY FANS WITH FABLED

RETAIL



Do consumers understandenough about the impact ofmicroplastics in water?Consumers are increasinglyaware about environmentalchallenges. A year ago at theWorld Economic Forum inDavos, the Ellen MacArthurFoundation raised awarenessabout the need for greaterrecovery and reuse of plastics.This year, P&G announced twoinitiatives that will continueraising awareness about thistopic: first, Head & Shoulderswill partner with leadingrecycling experts, TerraCycleand SUEZ, to pioneer a newapproach to produce the world’sfirst recyclable shampoo bottlemade with plastic collectedfrom beaches. Second, morethan half a billion bottles peryear in Europe will include upto 25% PCR plastic by the endof 2018. This represents morethan 90% of all the hair carebottles sold in Europe acrossP&G’s Hair Care portfolio offlagship brands like Panteneand Head & Shoulders. Whilethis is just the start of a journey,we believe this programme is away to give plastic waste asecond life and inspireconsumers to recycle.

How is P&G explaining thenew packaging to consumers?The new Head & Shouldersbeach bottle comes in a greycolour, signalling its recyclingorigins. Consumers recogniseHead & Shoulders for its iconicbottle shape and white and bluecolours [but] the Head &Shoulders beach plastic bottle isgrey because the plastic

P&G TALKSSUSTAINABLEPACKAGING

Head & Shoulders’ new shampoo bottle is madeentirely from recycled beach plastic. But what else will

it take to move towards a more sustainable future?

EXPERT ADVICE


origins and differentiation fromthe rest of the category. It isimportant to note that this isthe world’s first recyclableshampoo bottle made withHDPE PCR plastic derivedfrom plastic collected frombeaches.

What is P&G’s sustainabilityvision for the future?Protecting the earth is both aresponsibility and a businessopportunity. Our goal is tocreate brands that enableconsumers to make moresustainable choices. Our visionis that one day there will be nowaste going to a landfill, and in2017, we announced that by2020 all of our manufacturingsites would send zeroproduction waste to landfill.Since P&G began qualifyingsites as zero manufacturingwaste to landfill, 56% of itsglobal production sites haveachieved this milestone andplans are now in place tocomplete the remainingfacilities over the next fouryears. The launch of the newHead & Shoulders beach bottleis an important step in thecompany’s journey.

Share this interview oncosmeticsbusiness.com

Lisa Jennings, VicePresident, Head & Shouldersand Global Hair CareSustainability Leader,Procter & Gamble

collected from the beach istransformed into greyrecyclable pellets, and wewanted to keep it that way. Onthe front design we explain thatthe bottle is made with beachplastic and on the back designwe thank the thousands ofvolunteers that helped collectplastic from the beach to makethis happen and encourageconsumers to recycle.

Whose responsibility is it tominimise plastic waste?We all have a role to play.Companies like P&G and other leaders in their industryneed to step up, invest and getinvolved in the long termsolutions. But we cannot do italone. Consumers also have toadopt sustainable consumption

habits. By purchasing the newHead & Shoulders bottle,consumers areactivelycontributingto givingplasticwaste asecondlife.

P&G’snewbottle isgrey incolour.Why?The greyHead &Shouldersbottlesignals bothits recycled


LVMH-owned cosmetics brand Benefit haslaunched its Real Full Lips video generatoron its app and website.

The debut coincides with the launch of thecolour brand’s new They’re Real!Double the Lip product, whichfeatures eight shades of the linerand lipstick combo.

The digital generator isinteractive and gives users thechance to create a short videofeaturing a moving pair of lips.Users can select one of the eight lipcolours, then a lip movement. Thegenerator then asks them to type ina word or phrase of up to 250characters that they want the lips tosay or select one of the pre-determined phrases, beforechoosing a voice from four options.These include Leah, Shirley, Ingridor Humphrey.

L’ORÉAL is benefiting froma higher digital spend, afterit set aside 30% of its media

budget for use on digitalchannels in 2016, Forbes

recently reported. The titlepredicts that this figure willbe “much higher” in 2017.

L’Oréal recently put itsweight behind five start-ups

through its partnership with Founders Factory.

Meanwhile, it is exploring the benefits of Snapchat forMaybelline and WeChat totarget Chinese consumers.

Forbes wrote that thecompany is able to

customise its message byusing the right channel forevery audience segment.

CHARLOTTE TILBURY haspartnered with YouCam Makeupto launch a virtual reality make-up feature. Users of the app in

the US are able to ‘try on’ the 12shades of the brand’s Hot Lips

lipstick collection on theirmobiles or tablets. Alice Chang,

CEO of YouCam’s parentcompany Perfect Corp, said the

company was delighted topartner with Tilbury. She said:

“The virtual release of [CharlotteTilbury’s] incredible new lipstick

line gives beauty fans acrossthe world the ability to enjoy

true-to-life try-ons in the palm oftheir hand.”

PALMER’S COCOABUTTER FORMULA has

completed its Winter CocoaTour!, using the hashtag#PalmersCocoaTour. The

skin care brand visiteddifferent cities around the

US including New York,Chicago, Philadelphia,

Baltimore, Boston, Clevelandand Washington, with

Minneapolis being its finaldestination on 13 February.

Those that met with thePalmer’s street team

received a free sample.

DIGITAL


NEWS IN BRIEF

The video then presents the final result, with ashort video showing the lips moving andspeaking. Users are brought to a page where theycan then download or share the finished clip on

their social media channels using#getREALlips. Each video can becustomised in 15 languages and 17accents.

Benefit said it created the Real FullLips generator as a way forconsumers to express themselves.Lisa Goodfriend, Benefit’s GlobalDigital Creative Director, said:“Instead of burning bras, today’swoman is showing her fierceness byembracing bold lips and smoky eyes.She feels more empowered to speakher mind.”

The Real Full Lips videogenerator is available from 1 February until 31 May viabenefitcosmetics.com/real-full-lips.

BENEFIT UNVEILS LIPS VIDEO GENERATOR

Meitu, the Chinese technology company and appcreator, has experienced a surge in new usersoutside of its domestic market.

The company’s Meitu photogaphy appwitnessed a 480% increase in new users outsideof China, driven by the use of the app’s handdrawn effect, which has been used more than320 million times since its launch on 11 January.

After 13 days, the Meitu app had reached thetop spots on the Apple App Store and GooglePlay in more than 30 countries. Frank Fu, SVPand Managing Director at Meitu, said: “We

Meitu app’s hand drawnanime effects go viral

believe that 2017 will be a big year for mobileVR and AR. And millennials will increasinglylook to lifestyle and beauty brands to leveragethis technology and give them moreopportunities to try on and experiment withproducts from the comfort of their own phones.”

The app has attracted a celebrity following,with famous faces including comedians JamesCorden (pictured) and Jimmy Fallon, andactresses Kate Beckinsale and Brie Larson.

Meitu already has other selfie-based appsincluding BeautyPlus and MakeupPlus, whichsaw over triple digit user growth in 2016 in LatinAmerica, India, Europe and the US. Meitu hasmore than 430 million users outside of China.


INNOVATION


NEW IMPLANT REGISTRYIS STEP FORWARD

The PIP scandal was a wake-up call for the cosmeticsurgery industry and consumers alike. But is the

new Digital Breast Implant Registry action enough?

The NHS DigitalBreast Implantregistry wasimplemented in2016, following thePIP scandal. Itquickly became evidentthat a system was needed toswiftly identify patientsaffected by issues such asimplant recall, so that theycould be informed and treatedas a matter of urgency whenneeded. The registry givessurgeons this exact capability,acting like a ‘track and trace’for patients receivingimplants, as well as helpingthe industry identify possiblepatterns and complicationsrelating to specific implants. Ithas now become mandatoryfor surgeons to inform theirpatients about the registry,although it is down to thepatient whether they consentto their data being submitted.Personally I encourage allpatients to register and believethe new system is a stepforward for the industry.

Lack of a universalregulation in cosmetic surgerymeans that the competency ofsurgeons and in turn thequality of results can fluctuatefrom country to country. Herein the UK, we have theGeneral Medical Council andRoyal College of Surgeons forexample, which set thestandards practitioners mustadhere to. A surgeon’sperformance is monitoredwith regular training andindependent appraisals on aannual basis, this just isn’t the

case everywhere. Cosmetic surgery

tourism has grownin recent years dueto the accessibility of

treatments at a lessercost in countries outside

the UK. However, the endprice to your health andwellbeing greatly outweighsthe money saved. While thenorm in the UK is to deliver acomprehensive consultationwith a cooling off period and24-hour care post-procedure,abroad cosmetic proceduresare often like a conveyer belt,with patients in and out fartoo quickly. Of course thisisn’t true of all surgeons andclinics, there are manyfantastic services offeredabroad – you just need to bethorough with your researchand ensure you are choosing alegitimate expert. There arealso instances of proceduresthat are not legalised in theUK but are available inalternative countries and thisshould ring alarm bells.

There is no doubt the NHSdigital Breast Implant registryis a step in the right directionbut at present, it does notcover additional implants suchas the calf and buttocks. Thisis a concern as these surgeriesare deemed higher risk due toproblems such asdisplacement. It is myunderstanding that the NHSDigital plans to expand theregistry to cover othercosmetic implants and I hopeto see this come to fruition inthe near future.

DR GEORGE SAMOURIS IS A PLASTIC SURGEON AT THE HOSPITAL GROUP IN LONDON AND THE ELITE

PLASTIC SURGERY IN GREECE

OPINION COLUMN

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FIRST OIL-COMPATIBLEHYDRATED HA UNVEILEDHyaluronic acid is the main macromolecule maintaining our skin’swater content. Due to its very high water solubility, it is complex toadd HA – even in dry powder form – into oil-based formulations,including many make-up applications.

PrimalHyal Gold from Givaudan Active Beauty is a new solutionproduced via biofermentation that allows the incorporation ofhydrated HA into oil-based formulas including pressed powders,body oils, sun care oils, lipsticks, lip glosses, mascaras, balms andanhydrous formulas. A specific molecular weight HA (<50kDa) isincorporated into a micro emulsion to create PrimalHyal Gold.

Naturex adds hair ingredients to NaDES lineNaturex offers a range of natural active compounds extracted via aprocess called Eutectigenesis, whereby the active part of the plant isextracted through the formation of natural deep eutectic solvents(NaDES). These ingredients demonstrate augmented phytoactiveprofiles and improved performance, and for the first time Naturexis expanding its Eutectys technology to hair care.

First up is a horsetail extract rich in phenolic compounds, whichdemonstrates good anti-frizz and radiance properties. Tested oncurly human hair, Horsetail Eutectys BLA reduces frizziness by458%. Also new is Saffron flower Eutectys BLA; it claims toincrease hair manageability and suppleness, and reduces friction,making combing easier.

SYMOCIDE C FULFILS DEMANDFOR ALTERNATIVE PRESERVATIONSymOcide C, the latest ingredient from Symrise,has been developed to protect personal careproducts against microbial spoilage, whileproviding an alternative to traditionalpreservatives that are falling out of favour withconsumers.

The cosmetic preservative 0-Cymen-5-ol (p-thymol) – trade named SymOcide – is said topreserve many cosmetic products effectively,particularly in combination with organic acidsand multifunctional ingredients. It is globallyapproved and is said to be especially beneficial inoral care applications, thanks to its antimicrobialproperties.


NEW PRODUCTS

BRANDS

and organic barbary fig oil tonourish and hydrate the skin.Launch: out now

5 MINNIES, the new bath andbody care collection from TheOnly Way Is Essex reality TV starsSamantha and Billie Faiers, haslaunched exclusively in ThePerfume Shop. The Pretty FizzyBath Bombs (£4.50) are said to“add some fabulous fizz intobathtime”, while the Girly &Gorgeous Body Mist (£14.50)contains the brand’s signaturescent. Other products include abody scrub, bubble bath, dustingpowder and hand cream.Launch: out now

6 VITA LIBERATA has unveiledTen Minute Tan (£29.95), a neworganic pre-shower tanninglotion and hydrating skintreatment that develops into anatural glow. The tanning activesare absorbed before beingrinsed off in the shower, so thereis no risk of transfer ontoclothes. The tan containsmatrixyl 3000 for a plumping and

3 JOHN FRIEDA has created anew range of products toincrease the natural luminosityof blonde hair. The BrilliantlyBrighter range includes theSheer Blonde Brilliantly BrighterUltra Illuminating Shampoo andConditioner (£6.99 each) andthe Blonde Perfecting Treatment(£9.99). The shampoo andconditioner contain patentedtechnology to penetrate hairfrom within and improve eachstrand’s reflective capabilities,while the weekly five-minutetreatment deposits blonde dyemolecules onto the hair’ssurface to create a colour ‘veil’around each fibre for a multi-dimensional effect.Launch: out now

4 ELEMIS has launched Pro-Definition Facial Oil (£65) whichis absorbed into the skin tocreate a contour definition andlift around the jawline, nose andbrow. It contains raspberry plantstem cell extract to hydrate theskin, Himalayan gentian extractto help lines appear smoother


1 PALL MALL BARBERS haslaunched the Tea Tree Shampooand Conditioner For Men (£12each). The shampoo is infusedwith tea tree and eucalyptus oils.It is said to be ideal for healingirritated scalps with regular use.The conditioner is alsoformulated with the soothing andcalming properties of tea treeand eucalyptus oils. It isdesigned to help relieve itchyand flaking scalps, while alsohydrating the hair. With regularuse, the brand says it will help toheal the scalp while leaving hairwith a soft and silky finish. Launch: out now

2 THE WET BRUSH custom caredetangling hair brush (£11.99) isdesigned for different hair types.There are three options availablefor fine, medium and thickerlocks. Each brush featuresIntelliFlex bristles that bend overand around knots to work themout gently without stretching orbreaking hair. Each variant hasbristles that are positioneddifferently to allow the brush totarget different hair types. Launch: out now

smoothing effect, as well asDHA, the active ingredient. Launch: out now

7 GOSH is focusing on theNordic/Danish beauty of naturefor its spring/summer 2017launches. Liquid Matte Lips(£8.99) is available in eightshades and is said to provide amatte look with an intensecolour pay-off. The brand haslaunched five new eye productsfor the season: theEyeXpression eyeshadowpalette (£8.99), with three matteeyeshadow shades and ahighlighter; the Giant Pro Kajal(£7.49), designed for easy andlong lasting application; theGiant Pro Double Liner (£10.99),which offers a 2-in-1 application;the Infinity Eye Liner (£6.99),which gives up to 14 hours ofwear; and the Volume SerumMascara (£13.99). There arealso new shades of Lumi Dropsliquid highlighter (£8.99) andVelvet Touch Lipstick (£7.99).Launch: out now

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TRESEMMÉ hasappointed celebrityhairstylist and socialmedia star JUSTINEMARJAN as Global

Hairstylist. Marjan will lead a new,

all-female team of hairstylists joining theUnilever-owned hair care brand, in a moveTRESemmé hopes will “take a stance”against the male-dominated hair careindustry and help women feel empowered.

Heather Mitchell, Global Head of PRand Digital Engagement for Unilever Hair,said: “Every day, TRESemmé looks forways to inspire women around the world.Our inspiration comes from our founder,Edna Emme, who nearly 70 years ago was a leading stylist and groundbreaking

businesswoman. “Just like Edna, Justine isone of the most influential stylists in thehair care industry, and commemorates thelegacy as a bold female hairstylist pavingthe way forward.”

Marjan has created hair looks forcelebrity clients including Kim Kardashian,Chrissy Teigen and Kerry Washington. Inher new role, she will work withTRESemmé to provide hair care tips andtricks, as well as exclusive backstage accessto fashion shows and advice on howconsumers can recreate the looks at home.

She said: “I am thrilled to be partneringwith TRESemmé, a brand created to givewomen around the world the confidence to put their best look forward.

“Now, more than ever, women need torally together and I can’t wait to see what

magic I can create with TRESemmé.”Marjan will begin her partnership with

TRESemmé at New York Fashion Week,where she will provide exclusive contentalongside a team of influential beauty andfashion bloggers including Paola Alberdi,Marianna Hewitt and Casey Holmes.

Her appointment will markTRESemmé’s 18th season as the officialhair care sponsor of New York FashionWeek. The brand will round out its team of hairstylists with Odile Gilbert and HolliSmith, who will join Marjan in creating hair looks for designers including CarolinaHerrera, Jenny Packham, Altuzarra andCreatures of Comfort.

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ON THE MOVE AT... TRESEMMÉ

For the latest opportunities, visit cosmeticsbusiness.com/jobs/jobs_page PEOPLE


NICOLE KIDMAN, the AustralianAcademy Award-winning actress, isthe latest celebrity to become aglobal ambassador forNEUTROGENA.

She will join a team of nineactresses representing the Johnson& Johnson-owned brand, includingJennifer Garner, Kerry Washingtonand Hayden Panettiere.

Kidman, a former Chanelambassador, said that growing up inAustralia she learnt the importance ofsun protection, but she realised thatthe skin needed more support tomaintain its health. “So when I hadthe opportunity to partner withNeutrogena, a brand that has skinhealth at the core of who they are, itwas like the stars were aligning forme,” she said. Kidman’s firstcommercial for the brand will airduring the Oscars on 26 February.


WHAT’S TRENDING?


MAGICAL TIE-INS BREATHENEW LIFE INTO BRAIDSFantasy inspired hairstyles are creating novel and uniqueopportunities for brands and retailers

“Braids are like leopard print – they never goout of fashion. I predict this summer braidedextensions will be huge – last year The BraidBar did them for Cara Delevingne and SukiWaterhouse at Glastonbury and they seemed

to have gone stratospheric since then. Thissummer they’ll be even bigger. Hair jewellery seems

to be having a real moment as well. We put loads of charms andrings in the braids, which really elevate the style and make a verycool statement – perfect for festivals and parties.”Sarah Hiscox, Director, The Braid Bar

“BRAIDS NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION”

O nce a schoolgirl staple, hair braids have really upped theirgame in recent years, coming a long way from childishpigtails and basic French plaits.

The resurgence can in part be put down to the rise of celebritiessuch as the Kardashians posting intriguing modern twists on classiclooks on Instagram, as well as the growing popularity of musicfestivals, where braids provide the perfect compromise betweenconvenience and style.

But 2016 saw this trend take one step further. Unicorn braidsreached their peak at the end of last year, with certain YouTubetutorials receiving more than three million views. A wearableeveryday look, these braids are inspired by the mythical beast andinclude a volumised half-up, half-down single braid that finishes atthe crown of the head. Beauty fans are continuing to incorporatethe fantasy theme into their routines this year but in a more daringway, adding pastel hues and glitter to their plaits. Others have evengone as far as to construct ‘hair horns’.

Brands are tapping into the overall demand for braids byreleasing specially-designed products and partnering with hairspecialists. Redken launched the Braid Aid 03 to help consumers

achieve a smooth finish as well as a firm grip while creating thelook. Meanwhile, Selfridges and Superdrug recently partnered with The Braid Bar, a salon dedicated to the trend, and Unileverrepeatedly focuses on the trend on YouTube channel All ThingsHair featuring Zoella. Harvey Nichols and Schwarzkopf have alsopushed the braided beauty trend by collaborating with plaitspecialist Keash Braids.

As the trend grows, retailers are clearly tapping into the demandby dedicating floor space in-store. However, cosmetic brands arestill on the sidelines. As festival season approaches, braids will be indemand and it’s prime opportunity for hair care companies tocapitalise. The braid trend will allow brands to developrelationships with the youth market and to showcase the benefits ofusing their styling products.

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20 February 2017 Issue 6 cosmeticsbusiness.com NEWS · Lucy Tandon Copp Reporter Sarah Parsons Sub Editor Austyn King Contributors Patricia Mansfield-Devine Art Editor Sibylla Duffy