197205 Desert Magazine 1972 May

8/14/2019 197205 Desert Magazine 1972 May

1/60

MAY, 1972 50cr

IBH


2/60

C A P I T O L R E E F N A T I O N A L P A R KC A P I T O L R E E F L O D G E

I N C A P I T O L R E E F N A T I O N A L P A R KReef To urs offers a wide variety of comprehen-tours de signed for camera fans, na ture lovers, andasValley, the C ircle Cliffs, the Sou th Dese rt, and

Ourguides use specially de signed, well-station wagon s. We know and co ver approxi-square miles of primitive area leftuntouched by civilization, some of the most isolated,most fascinating spots in America's land of canyons.

Our Capitol Reef Lod ge provides the finest in diningroom service and cool ultra-modern rooms. There is alounge and patio for your leisure use, as well as aslide show each night displaying many additional at-tractions you may wish to visit throughout Utah.FOR INFORMATION AND RESERVATIONS WRITECAPITOL REEF LODGE, FRUITA, UTAH(VIA TORREY) Phone 425-3558.

S H E L LC O N O C O& U N I O N 76C R E D I TC A R D SA C C E P T E D

NAMEAddressCity

(please print)

State Zip Code


3/60


4/60

I n t r o d u c i n g t h e b r a n d n e wFisherExplorer IIT h e m a k e rs of t h e f i r s t m e t a ld e t e c t o r g i v e y o u 1 6 r e a s o n s w h yi t ' s th e " C a d i ll a c " of all t r e a s u r eh u n t in g i n s t r u m e n t s . Y e t it s b a s i cc o s t is o n l y $ 2 2 9 . 5 0

1 . EXCLUSIVE DETACHABLE FEATURE. Lets youuse ins t rumen t as s in ge u n i t or w i th e lec t ron-ics section detached ard worn ' round the neck.2 . ON/OFF/VOLUMi: CONTROL. 3. METER SEN-SITIVITY. 4. BUILT-IN SPEAKER. 5. EARPHONEPLUG. 6. EXCLUSIVE LAMINATED WOODGRAIN.Makes Explorer II the most d is t inctive on themarke t . Tough , s : : ra tch - res is tan t , beau t i fu l !7. GENUINE WALNUT HAND GRIP. 8. WIDE-ANGLE METER. 9. EXCLUSIVE BATTERY TEST.1 0 . MET AL - MIN ER AL SEL EC T O R /F IN G ER T IPTUNING CONTROL 1 1 . TELESCOPING ROD.1 2 . REAL LEATHER NECK & WAIST STRAPS.I n c l u d e d f o r u s e w i t h d e t a c h e d h o u s i n g .1 3 . / 1 4 . CHOICE OF WATERPROOF SEARCHLOOPS. You can have eith er the 6" or 12 "loop at the basic price (or have both loops for$50 ex t ra ) . 15 . STAINLESS CONNECTORS.1 6 . EXCLUSIVE STEREO-TYPE HEADPHONES.Inc luded with basic unit.

F I S H E R T R E A S U R E D E T E C T O R SDept .D M, P.O. Box 490 B^rn ont. CA. 94002 -Since 1932Gentlemen: Please iend free information on yournew Explorer II an:l instruments checked:Q GEMINI $189.50 I I METALERT M70 $158.50 ORION 120 $99.50 G ORION 121 $129.50 MODEL T-20C $]49 .:,0NAMEADDRESS^CITYSTATE

DEALER INQUIRIES INVITEDMASTERCHARGE WELCOMED

A P e e ki n t h eP u b l i s h e r ' sP o k e

P UBLISHING THIS month's special issueon southern Utah and northern Ari-zona has been both a rewarding experi-ence and a challenge. The rewards camein again renewing our friendship withthe man)- wonderful people in the Bee-hive and Grand Canyon States and inmaking new friends as we gatheredadditional material for the issue.

The challenge was in deciding whatarticles we should use. There is so muchto cover we could devote all 12 issues ayear to these areas and still have materialleft over lor another 12.

Since we cover all of the Western states, this would be impossible. However,other articles on Utah and Arizona will continue to appear during the coming months.Next month we will have another article by Enid Howard on the W h i t e Rim alongthe Colorado River and the conclusion of Stan [ones' "Paradise For Lunkers" whichwhich starts in this issue

In previous years we covered Lake-Powell from the scenic, boating and recreationalangles . When we asked "Mr. Lake Powell" towrite the fishing article it was to be the stan-dard 2,000 words. You just can't cover Powellin such a short article. So, although, we seldomcontinue articles, in order to do justice to Stanand our readers the conclusion of his fishingguide will be in the June issue.

An outstanding writer and photogra-pher, Stan knows every nook and cranny (andthere are thous ands ) in Lake Powell. If you aregoing to Lake Powell don't fail to get his Boat-ing and Exploring Map. In addition to 37 colorphotographs it tells you everything you need toknow about the giant and scenic lake. His mapis available through our Book Shop for $1.25,postpaid.

This issue also features the Land ofStanding Rocks, just recently made part of theCanyonlands National Park. Formerly a Natio nal M onum ent and now America's new-est Park, C apitol Reef Natio nal Park is described along with a horseback riding tripthrough the Escalante area and short article on Moab, Utah's Slickrock Bike Trail plusa little advance publicity on a Memorial Day weekend boat cruise down the Colorado.

Edito r Jack Pepp er takes you on a safari throu gh the M ormo n co untry andon the Trail to Rainbow Bridge. And, of course, no issue would be complete withoutour field trip editor, Mar)' Frances Strong, who reveals a collecting area in California'sEl Paso Mountains. Our naturalist, K. L. Boynton, tells about the craziest of all birds,the roadrunner.

So as we do in all our issues, we have selected material that will be ol interestto the entire family and to those who use all types of transportation to explore ourwonderful world of color.

Stau Jo "Air. Lake Powell"


5/60


6/60

TREASUREHUNTERS-PROSPEECTORS-

C A T A L O GM E T A L - M I N E R A L D E T E C T O R S

W H IT E S - M E T R O T E C H - G O L D A KD E T E C T R O N - F I S H E R

E X C E L S IO R - P R E C I S IO NDREDGESDRY WASHERSM A P SSLUICE BOXESROCK TUMBLERSTOOLS

ASSAY KITMINERAL LIGHTSOTHERRELATED EOUIPMENTA U R O R A6 2 8 6 B E A C H BL V D .

B UE N A P A R K , C A L I F O R N I A 9 0 6 2 0P h o n e | 7 1 4 ) 5 2 1 - 6 3 2 1

B o o kR e v i e w sby Jack Pepper

A l l b oo k s r e v i e w e d a r e a v a i l a b l e t h r o u g hD e s e r t M a g a z i n e B o o k S ho p

NAVAJORUGS,Past, Presentand FutureB yGilbert S.Maxwell

As a result of a renewed interest andappreciation of the culture and artistry ofIndians throughout the United States,there is an increasing demand for authen-tic handmade crafts, especially jewelry andrugs.

Stan L A K E P O W E L LM A Pand itsfascinatingC A N Y O N S

E V E R Y T H I N GY O U W A N T T O K N O WA B O U T

CAMPING FISHINGHIKING

MARINAS BUOYSWEATHER

RAINBOW BRIDGEWorld's Seventh Natural Wonder

O N L Y

2 5POSTPAIDP.O. Box 955D

Page, Arizona, 86040

Although the reproduction of jewelryseems to be increasing, this is not true ofrugs which Indian traders say are gettingmore and more difficult to obtain. As aresult the prices are continually rising.

First published in 1963, this informa-tive book is now in its I lt h printing. Any-on e planning a trip through Navajolandin southern Utah and northern Arizonashould have a copy with them.

For, as this reviewer has found, onceyou see and feel a true Navajo rug, youwill want to possess one, not only for itsbeauty, but, as my Indian trader friendrecently said, "today, an inves tment in aNavajo ru g is a better bet than buying dia-monds." Slick paperback, illustrated with4-color and black and white photographs,7 2 pages, $2.50.

TRADERSTO THENAVAJOSBy FrancesGillmor an dLouisa WadeWetheriU

The story of |ohn and Louisa WetheriUof Kayenta has long been considered awestern classic and it is no w in its thirdprinting since first published in 193-1. Inaddition to recounting the trading exper-iences and archeological finds of this fas-cinating couple from 1900 into the 30s, itgives an insight to Navajo customs, leg-ends and ceremonies.

Proprietor of the famous Arizona trad-

itD R I N K I N GW A T E RA Q U A S P R I N G ' R ; P u r i f i e r -D i s t i l le r p r o d u c e s w a fe ras nature i n t e n d e d - l e a v i n g b e h i n d c h l o r i n e ,sa l ts , i r o n , su l fa tes , a l l impur i t ies and bad rastes.Cos ts penn ies per g a l l o n ,A Q U A S P R I N G wa ter i s de l i c iou s . Beverages ,f o o d , eve ry th ing tas tes be t te r . Once you tas teth e d i f f e r e n c e y o u ' l l n e v e r w a n t t o drink o r d i -n a r y w a te r a g a i n .Com pac t , p lugs in I ' k c a toas te r , no p I u m b n chook -up s wh ate ver . Take i t w h e r e v e r y o u g oW r i t e n o w fo r f r e e i n fo r ma t i o n .UNITED VITO-WAYP . O . B o x 1 0 2 8 1 9 3 0 E . P a c i f i c , D e p t . D - 5A l b a n y , O r e g o n 9 7 3 2 1 T e l : ( 5 0 3) 9 2 6 - 3 5 8 1


7/60

Oljato, meaning "Moon-to Kayenta ) ,

the Ind ians asand school teacher. As a guide toand explorers and as an amateur

he discovered the ruins ofBetatakin, Keet Seel and

He was also the first of two whiteen to reach Rainbow Bridge.M r s . Wetheri l l spoke f luent Navajo and

is her moving story of their experi-of l iving among and with the In-for more than 30 years. Paperback,

:/

now held most secret. As t ime went on.white missionaries showed a disposition toimpose their beliefs on the Indians to theexclusion of their old faiths and they na-turally grew more and more secretive un-til now they shut white men out of themost sacred parts of all their ceremoniesand exclude them altogether from certainmore important and probably more beau-tiful dances" the author explains.However , she has been privileged towitness many of the closed dances and inher book she not only describes the cere-monies but also delves into the motivationbehind the dances. "An Indian dance isno t a dance in the sense in which we usethe term. It is a ceremonial , a symbolicrepresentation, a prayer."

The author also describes and locatesthe dances which are open to the public,including those of theNavajos, Zunis andHopis. Paperback, i l lustrated, 280 pages,$2.45.

Many of the Indian dances and cere-annually t h roughout the

are open to the public, whileare either restricted or completelyto viewing

"From the chronicles of early Spanishand fro n the reports of Ameri-Arm\- officers and Indian agents it

men were long wel-to all dames, even the ceremonies

Books reviewed may be orderedfrom the DESERT Magazine BookOrder Department, Palm Desert,California 92260. Please include50c for handling. California resi-dents must add 5% sales tax.Enclose payment with order.

R eprints A vailableSUITABLE FOR FRAMING (19"xl4") PRINTED IN FOUR-COLORSON QUALITY PAPERW e e k e n dAs it appeared in theApril, 1972 issue ofDESERT Magazine

Pages 18 and 19$ 2 . 2 5Tax and postage incl. Send Check or Money Order to

DESERT MAGAZINE, Box 1318, Palm Desert, California 92260Please Allow FOUR Weeks For Delivery

P.D.QT H E M O S T V E R S A T IL E U N I T

O N T H E M A R K E T T O D A Y !

3 " P . D . Q .F L A T L A P P I N GA C C E S S O R I E S

This picture shows the P.D Q. turned cross-wayson the P.DQ. shaft and how you can use the L3 lapdisks, if you don't care to use them in the 4" lap pan.You can use the grinding disks (No. 42)on these or the3 " diamond cabbing disks (No. 56) or perhaps youwould like the L3-D diamond lap disks thai lit hori-zontal on the shaft also.

No. 56 3M Diamond Coated Cabbing Disks For3" P.D.Q. 1-3 Lap Discs.Medium diamond 4.40 Ea.Extra fine diamond 3.50 Ea.The 3" disks arc especially cut to use with hemNo . 40 and No. -11 Model 1,3 Lap Disks 75 of the lap-ping done by the average cutter can be done on a i"less expensive disk. "You will never believe it untilyou try them."

Motor speed control recommended on P.DQ. tocontrol proper R.P.M. of :r. 3M disks. From 1250 to1750 R.P.M. is best for 3 inch This revolutionary newdevelopment from 3M gives superior grinding and fin-i s h ing of all t ype s of gem s tone s !No. 58 3" FELTFor use on L3 lap disk for polishing 50c EaNo. 59 3" LEATHERFor use on L3 lap disk 5Jc Ea.No, 60 3" SPONGE RUBBER DISKFor padding on SL lap disks 00c Ea."PUT & TAKE" ADHESIVE

"Put and Take" is the successful means t" fastenleather or sanding cloth to a disk or drum and have itstay PUT yet you can take one off and replace it with-out trouble.No . 78 4 oz. Can Allen "PUT & TAKE 60c Ea"TUFF SET" ADHESIVEWhen you want to fasten sponge rubber or corkbacking to a flat head or drum so it will stay . . use"TUFF SET".No . 79 4 oz. can Allen "TUFF SET" 60c Ea.No. 43 3" PELLON DISKS FOR L3 LAP DISKSFor polishing flats. Pressure sensitive backed for quickapplication 2;>c Ea.

Postage charges not includedS H I P L E Y ' SM I N E R A L H O U S EOn Hwy. 160 in southwest Colorado, 18 mileseast of Durango or iy2 miles west of Bayfield.

Mailing Address:SHIPLEY'S MINERAL HOUSE, Gem Village,

Bayfield D, Colorado 81122Phone: 303-884-2632LOTTIE M. SHIPLEY

SEND FOR NEW CATALOG # 9


8/60

r*

S L I C K R O C KB I K E T R A I Lb y D e e Collins


9/60

HOSE W H O own trail bikes are dedi-cated to the sportthose who do

t own trail bikes cannot understandcontraptions." So where can

e bike enthusiast ride his vehicle with-the public, in safety,of his su rround ings?

Moab, Utah, has come up with whatwill be a solution to some of

the riders of theago, theor Moab began a search

an area where they could ride and notthe local populace. They look-

the country around the area andout their bike trail right in the mid-and on top of a vast empty area of

of which there is a largearound the Moab perimeter.

They asked a question, "Why couldn ' ttheir trail be a scenic and pleasure tripthrough beauty as well as a challenge totheir skill as riders?" They have succeed-ed beyond their expectations.

The Bureau of Land Management ad-ministers the land they wanted to use andwas enthusiastic about the idea. July 22,1969 the new "Slickrock Bike Trail" wasdedicated and has been in constant usesince then. It encompasses some of themost outstandingly impressive countrynear Moab, the trail is well marked andskirts deep canyons, and has several scenicoverlooks.

Echo Point has rightly earned its name-you can try it! Abyss View Point af-

fords a breathtaking view from a sheercliff into a box canyon. As the trail ap-

proaches the Colorado River area it over-looks the river and Utah Highway 128from several different sites where thecurving river mirrors the colorful cliffs.

There is a side trip of two miles off themain trail to Morning Glory Bridge. Thispicturesque natural bridge was formed byerosion of a narrow sandstone ridge, andarches over a small pool called MorningGlory Pool.Then there is Shrimp Rock, named fora series of pools at its base that containthe tadpole, fairy and clam shrimp. Whenthe pools are dry, the eggs become dor-mant until water again fills the pondsan d the life cycle begins over again.

The trail is not all bare rock. There arcsand gardens in the depressions of the

continued .

'I'he Slickrock BikeTrail near, Moab,

Utah has beendesigned as a familyrecreational facility

for the sole useofbike riders.

Approximate! y >mileslong, it wind,* through

scenic country andacross (opposite page)

the million-year-oldcompressed sand

dunes. One of theman) juntas tic

formations along thetrail is the (right)

Morning GloryNatural Bridge.Photos courtesyBureau oI Land

Management.


10/60

mmmThe Whi le Mountain Apache Indians welcome you.Come and enjoy the wonderful mountain cl imate,the beau tiful prim itive scenery, clear, cold streamsand the host trout fishing in the Southwest.

F or I n f o r m a t i o n a n d F re e M a p s , w r i t eW H IT E M O U N T A I N

R E C R E A T I O N E N T E R P R I S EP . O . B O X 2 1 8W HI T E R I VE C , A R I Z O N A

rock that support sagebrush, juniper andpinyon trees, desert grasses, and even des-ert flowers here and there for a spot ofcolor. There are small valleys filled withsand dunes where soapweed yucca, oak-brush, snakeweed and cedar trees seem tothrive. The cedars are obviously very oldjudging from the thick twisted trunks andlimbs covered with deep layers of shaggy-bark.

Th e high, often snow -capped . La SalMountains provide a distant backgroundand striking contrast with the red andpink sandstone terrain of the trail as theriders skim along the surface of the an-cient sand dunes that provide an idealtraction surface for the bikes.

Moab's Slickrock Bike Trail is not justa place to send the riders to get them outof the way of the citizens; it is a recreationfacility designed by bike riders, for bikeriders.

Marvin Jensen of the Bureau of LandManagement staff in Moab, comments, "Ithas not solved all the problems of trailbike off-road travel and its resultant ero-sional effect on the land, but it has solvedsome of them." He feels it is a step in theright direction to provide areas that are at-

Enjoy Moab's

Canyon w alls come to life under 40,000watts of controlled illuminationF O R R E S E R V A T I O N S:

Y O U 'V E G O T T O SE E IT T O BE L I E VE I T !S P E C T A C U L A R 2 - H R . C R U I S EO N T H E C O L O R A D O R I VE R !An inspiring interpretation ofNature and history of south-eastern Utah with music andnarration

Enjoy this unique cruise in com-plete safety in 80-passenger JetBoat constructed to our speci-fications. Trained river guidesoperate the craft in quiet, safecomfort, making this a familyexperience you will not want tomiss on your visit to CanyonCountry.

Boat leaves nightly from ourColorado River dockOne-half hour after sundownAD ULTS, $5.0 0 C hildren under 12, $2. 50

Winnco, Inc.WE1TON B. WINN, General M anager311 Hol iday Haven, Moab, Utah 84 532

TELEPHONE 801-253-5261 or 253-4071

tractive to the devotees of this fast grow-ing sport, that can be maintained like anyother recreational installation.

The bike trail is designed only for trailmachines equipped for rough countrytravel. All other vehicles are not allowed.For inexperienced riders there is a prac-tice loop 2.3 miles long at the beginningof the course. The advanced portion pro-vides an exciting trip-with rough spotswhere the bike may have to be "walked"in. The main loop trail is 10.3 miles longand takes about five hours to travel.

The Bureau of Land Management hassuggested these precautions:

Us e only low geared trail bik es"equipped for rough country travel.

Only experienced "rough country" rid-ers should attempt the advanced portionof the course.

Avoid riding double.Th e trail is for sightse eing only- do n't

participate in contests.Tell someone where you are going.Carry drinking water.Location of Bike Trail? If entering

Moab on U.S. 163 from the south, turnright at the Greenwell Motel; \\ from thenorth, make a left turn and proceed toto end of street. Turn right and follow to"Sand Flats Road Slickrock Bike Tr ail ,"swing left and proceed past the cemetery.A dirt road will lead to beginning area ofthe Trail .

You may obtain a map of Moab's Slick-rock Bike Trail at the Bureau of LandManagement office at 68 South Main,(Hw y. 163) in the Canyonlands Nat ionalPark Building. The staff of the B.L.M. isalways ready to answer questions pertain-ing to the Bike Trail or surrounding areas.

Tf you are a bike enthusiast why notgive Moab's Slickrock Bike Trail a whirl?This special place of sage, sand, sunshineand slickrock is for bike riders to use andenjoy. Tt is their own special world- -but,keep it clean and keep it special. n

M O A B

Located 5 miles South of Moab, on U.S. 163For brochure, write:

. P. O . Box 147-D , Moab, Utah 845 32 y


11/60


12/60

B l u f f ,T i M E S T A N C I S S r i l l

by Mary Foushee

Called the Navajo an dUte Twins, this brilliantred sandstone formation isjust outside of Bluff, Utahand is a favorite forhikers and photographers.

A N D IS very deep in the streets. Peo-pie move slowly for there is no

competition. Nobody new ever comes toBluff."

That is how Ernie Pyle described ourcommunity in the 1930s while he was a"roving reporter" and before he becamefamous as a W orld W ar II co rrespondent.

Today the streets are graveled and evenU . S . Highway I 63 winds its way throughour settlement, making a series of rightangle turns before climbing out of exqui-site Cow Canyon and onto the BluffBench. The highway then goes norththrough southern Utah to Blanding, Mon-ticello and Moab.

And, once in a while, somebody newdoes come and starts a new business be-cause he likes the country and the soli-tude and the lack of social pressures. Andduring the summer months quite a few-tourists discover our town and ride thefrisky San Juan River with Ken Ross, orwander in the red rock canyons with usor just unwind in a spot where tranquil-lity comes easily.

I think that travelers going throughBluff often muse over the possibility ofget t ing away from the "rat race" and set-tling here. But the need to make a living,maintain two cars, a speed boat and theirteen-age childrens' orthodonist prevailsand what Bluff offers is not living in th estyle to which most Americans are ac-customed.

W h a t Bluff does offer is a spectacular


13/60

- "ML"!

ed) that blaze with breath-tak ing

f the centur In' Morm on pion eers,

lls a glimp se of the past.Cemetery Hill is actually the remnant

i gravel terrace da ting back over

the eleme nts.Fn the village the graceful lines of th e

Up the valley a paved road leads to St.ristop her's Epis opal M ission for the

d re ul ends at the river and

During the third Saturday of eac h June, Btujj holds its annual Indian Day Cele-bration with N avajo and Lite Indians com peting in a variety of contests, including

horse races and rodeos.

*


14/60

Write For Gem Maker'sF R E E C A T A L O G !!ShowingOVER ff,200MACHINESSend Me FREE C atalog Post PaidC O VI N G T O N E N G I N E E R I N G C O R P

"Manufacturers & D esigners"BO X 35 R E D L A N D S D, C A L I F . 9 2 3 7 3

NameAddressState Zip

San Juan River to theNavajo Reservation.Visible 40miles farther east inColo-

rado is the "Sleeping U te" Mounta in . It isan intrusive laccolith mountain where themoulten rock from depth has squeezed up-ward and in between layers ofsedimentaryrock, producing alens shape. The lacco-lith mountains ofthe Four Corners Coun-try have long been famous for their sharpcontrast against the brilliant Utah skies.

A few miles north ofthe Navajo footbridge, Recapture Pocket's weirdly erodedformations areoutlined against the sky.

N O R T H A M E R I C A N R I V E R E X P E D I T I O N S , I N C .R I VE R F L O A T T R I P S

QUALIFIED, EXPERIENCED COLORADO RIVER BOATMENLICENSED BONDED INSURED

D A I L Y F R O M M O A B: 2-D ay T rip Through Westwater C anyon 4-D ay T rip to Beautiful Canyonlands

National Park Through MagnificentC ataract Canyon.

* 5-D ay Trip Through Desolation Canyon.ALL M EALS , R IV ER EQUIPM ENT AND

T R A N S P O R T A T I O N F U R N I S H E DGROUP AND FAMILY RATES

O ffices located atI N C A INN M O T E L

5 7 0 N. M A I N , MO A B , U T A H 8 4 5 3 2C A L L 8 0 1 - 2 5 3 - 3 5 1 1

Write for brochure

R e w a r d f o r E a r l y d i n e r s2 9 5T o p S ir lo i n orP r i m e Rib COMPLETE DINNER

5:00 to 7:00 P.M. SEVEN DAYS A WEEK!T o mmy Bro o ks

and The Loving KindE N T E R T A I N FORY O U R D I N I N G AND D A N C I N G P L E A S U R E

Serving The Wor ld's Fines/ Beef

S t o c kS T E A K R A N C H and H O T E L67-501 Highway 111,Palm Springs, California (714) 328-1101

Recapture Canyon wasnamed by asurvey-ing part)' in 187*). Coming toward theBluff area from the east, their horses weredriven oilby marauding Indians, only tobe recaptured later in a drainage systemnow called Recapture.

In the canyons near Bluff, prehistoricAnasazi people lived and built spectacularcliff dwellings, hunted, drew their petro-glyphs onthe rocks and made potteryand then, after a few hundred years, leftthe area.

In present day Bluff, the third Saturdayof each fune brings Bluff's Indian Daycelebration (Blutl isstill atrading centerlo r Navajo and l ite Ind ians ) , anon-tour-ist-oriented event that provides fun andcolor. Navajo fry bread contests, bow andarrow competitions, traditional Navajogames, chicken pulls (without chickens),and horse rates bring fun tocontestantsand spectators. Navajos and whites coop-erate tobring theone day of organizedfestivity toBluff's otherwise unscheduledcalendar. Later inthe summer anall-Na-vajo rodeo takes place.

W e s t of thevillage, a public camp-ground borders the San [uan River andfrom this location anewbridge crosses theriver, opening up a hitherto inaccessibleportion ofthe Navajo Reservation.

Mluft today doesn't offer anexistenceI ree from problems, any more than itdidto Hole-in-the-Rock pioneers that springnearly 100 years ago. But today's travelersare looking for different things than theywere in1880 and to those seeking afewdays tree from the city's complexities insurroundings ot serene beauty Bluff isthe answer. D

S T O P T H A TT H I E F W I T HI O C K S T R A PA revolutionary new designattaches to front and rearslot. For allG.I. cans andal l 6" high rear panels.All steel construction andelectr ic welded., f \ f \T y p e E O n l y Q-UU

PLUS POSTAGE.DEALERINQUIRIES S e n t ' for FR EE Brochure Showingv INVITED. the r Models to Fit Any Vehicle.^\ J 141 Wiltsey Rd. S.E., Salem, OR 9 7 3 0 2 /


15/60

CANYON COUNTRYSCENIC TOURSget you to theRight Placeat theRight Tim e

era ted by Jim & Emery Hunt, M exican Hat, UtahFollow the SunWith our years of experience in MONUMENT VALLEY

Monum ent Valley is indeed a moving experience each

We know this country we love it we respect it.Although we do run many other tours throughout Sanarea MONUMENT VALLEY mu st be seen first.To those who want to see more, our Mexican Hat country

Some of our tours include overnight camping under theour cookouts well, nobody goes away hungryfew get away witho ut complaining they ateWe offer a new two day trip to RAINBOW BRIDGE

combining a boat trip on Lake Powell with a jeep trip oversome of San Juan County's spectacular canyon country.Meanwhile, back at the Trading Post. . . Almost anytime you come to ourSAN JUAN TRADING POST you willfind Navajos trading their hand work forsupplies. We carry a complete line ofauthentic Indian rugs and jewelry.Film too . . . In an area like this westock and sell so much film of all types

that our supply is always fresh. We alsostock groceries and meat for the camper.Our MOTEL is located just alongsidethe San Juan river. The cafe, tradingpost and motel are located just north ofthe bridge that crosses the San Juan.Are you an individual who wants apersonally guided tour of his own? Wewill be glad to design a custom trip justfor you.As we said: We know this country we love it we respect it.Try us!Write for free brochure, Box 156, Mexican Hat, Utah 84531

Mexican Hat is located on paved Highway 163 , seventy miles south of Mo nticello, U tah, approximately halfway along theshortest route from Mesa Verde National Park to the Grand Canyon. Open all year.


16/60

\

j


17/60

o xT H ET OR A I N B O W B R I D G E -

URING MY early teens I had twoidols. 1 was an avid reader of the

And sure enough, here ] was follow-

Indian steed along the trail toZane and Teddy (I felt that now I was

s. Zane Grey first saw the b ridgeThe two things we had in common were

through the scenic wonder-It didn't bother me that Zane's books

However, my faithful Navajo ponymed to enjoy my voice as he d idn 't even

byJack

Pepper

Trail to RainbowBridge winds

throughspectacular

Rainbow Canyon(opposite page).The 14-mile trail

also crossesmesas (above)

and down someslopes which are

so steep ridersdismount andlead the horses.All photos by

the author.


18/60

buck when I hit the high notes as we rodetogether along the I "5-mile trail whichwinds through canyons, over mesas anddown through the clear, cool streams ofthis colorful country.The reality of the trip was due to BillCrawley, owner and operator of Crawley'sGolden Sands Tours in Kayenta, Arizona.The majority of Bill's many tours, con-

ducted by his English-speaking NavajoIndian guides, are in four-wheel-drive,air-conditioned vehicles into MonumentValley and other areas on and around theNavajo Indian Reservation.Rainbow Bridge is within the NavajoReservation and the Navajo Indian TribalCouncil has awarded a new and exclusiveconcession to Crawley to conduct guidedhorseback riding tours in the area. Thisoverland route can only be traversed byhorseback or hiking.The largest and most impressive of allnatural bridges in the world, RainbowBridge is three hundred and nine feethigh and has a span of two hundred andeighty-nine feet. At its summit the arch isforty-two feet thick.I was first aw.;;d and inspired by thissandstone edifice eight years ago when ex-

G a t ew a y toC a p i to l R e efNa ti ona l P a r kA L L N E WSpacious, wel furnish edrooms with phones andTV. Dining room servingfull course dinners.

S U N G L O WM o t e l a nd C a feBICKNELL, UTAHOpen Year Round

Largest natural stone archin the world, Rainbow Bridge

is W9 feet high and 278 feet wide.

ploring the Colorado River with GaylordStaveley, veteran river guide. At that timethe waters of the river were being backedup by the then newly created Glen Can-yon Dam which was forming Lake Powell.

We had to hike eight miles from theriver to the natural arch. Today, as a re-sult of the filling of Lake Powell, the walkto the bridge is only one mile from thepublic boat docking facilities of the GlenCanyon National Recreational Area.You can visit Rainbow Bridge via thewater route either in your own boat or bytaking the guided tours offered by Can-yon Tours, Inc., from Wahweap Marina

near Page, Arizona, Hall's Crossing Mar-ina on the A rizona side of the lake or Bull-frog Marina, on the Utah side, both ofwhich are north of Rainbow Bridge.Having covered Utah for many years bypassenger car, four-wheel-drive vehicle,boat and airplane, I thought I had a com-prehen sive and overall view of this "scenicwonderland." But it was not until I fol-lowed the Navajo Trail to Rainbow BridgeI learned to appreciate the vast silence and

grandeur of this massive land.The only noise was the steady andsoothing crunch of my Navajo pony'shoofs or his neighing as he occasionallysignalled his intention to stop and chew onthe sage brush along the way. Even theclick of my camera seemed to disrupt thegentle whistling of the wind which isolat-ed us from the hot rays of the noondaysun.You don't lead a Navajo pony. You letthe reins hang loose with complete con-fidence, for this gentle animal knows hisway and will not fall or stumble as heslowly picks his way along the trail.

Sometimes I would ride for miles in si-lence as I tried to absorb the beauty of thiscountry, yet subconsciously know ing itjust could not be absorbed, recorded orphotographed. The elusive and ever-changing colors of the land, the unrecord-ed prehistoric past and the fleeting presentGiant sandstone formations

from which you can see for m ilesare characteristic of this part

of southern Utah.

just would not fuse into my mind whichwas attuned to the pragmatic world oftoday.At other times, when we were on top oflevel mesas, I would switch from contem-plation to exhilaration and use my raw-hide whip to convey my excitement to mypony.He would immediately break into a gal-lup as we became part of each other and

$32*

18

mem


19/60

Then suddenly the mesa ended and we

the rocky and treacherous trail to the can-yon below.We would walk into the clear streamand drink the cool water. Then he wouldshake himself from head to rear, neigh asthough saying, "let's get along the trail"and I would climb into the saddle and wewould head for new aventures.We made the ride from the corral at the

base of Navajo Mountain in a little lessthan eight hours with the return trip thenext day approximately the same time.Since I was on a time schedule we tookonly two days. However, depending uponthe number of people in the group andtheir desires, the round trip is usually athree or four day adventure.In addition to Bill Crawley, our smallgroup included Bill's 19-year-old niece,Joanie Crawley and Tinker Yazzie, a vet-eran and experienced Navajo guide. After

riding all day, Bill's camp under a giantcliff was a welcome sight. I had expectedto crawl into a sleeping bag. Instead therewere regular beds with mattresses and ahuge grill where Tinker cooked steaks andpotatoes and onions.As we sat around the campfire with themoonlight silhouetting Rainbow Bridge inthe distance, Crawley told us the firstwhite men to see the giant arch were JohnWetherill and Dr. Byron Cummings whowere led into the then virtually unexplored

country in 1909 by Nasja Bega, a PiuteIndian.Tinker said the Navajos call it Nonne-

zoshe, meaning "the great stone arch" andit is called Barohobii or "the rainbow" bythe Piute Indians.We were up at dawn the following dayand after spending time to photographand again admire Rainbow Bridge weheaded for home. We retraced our routethrough colorful Bridge Canyon, past OwlArch, through Oak and Nasja Creeks andinto Bald Rock Canyon where we pausedfor lunch. The trail continues through ChaCanyon, over another mesa into Trail Can-yon and Desha Creek and eventually tothe base of Navajo Mountain. From thereit is a 40-mile drive back to Kayenta.

As I looked back at Navajo Mountain,which is one of the Navajo's sacredgrounds, I relived our adventures of thelast two days. We had seen so much andyet there was a great deal we had missedand I knew that someday I would returnand once again take the Navajo Trail toRainbow Bridge. Q

C a n v o n l a n d sS c e n i cF l i g h t s

CANYONLANDS FLIGHTWe fly from Blanding, rising overthe forested Blue Mountains (12,000feet) then d rop lower to show youCanyonlands as it can't be seen by anyother means. This flight takes in theentire national park and includes AngelArch, Chesler Park, Cataract Canyon,the Maze, Monument Basin and otherbreathtaking vistas.LOCAL SCENIC TOURA low-priced flight for those whowant to taste the thrill of flying. Wesee the city of Blanding, Comb Reef, ageological phenomena, the PershingMissile Launching Site, Ute Indian vil-lage, nearby forest regions PLUS sev-eral Indian ruins.

For free brochure :P . O. Box 468-DBlanding Utah 84511Telephone 801 678-3303

Ask about our family rates

S c e n i cA v i a t i o nAIRPORTBLANDING, UTAHORMONTICELLO AIRPORT

19


20/60

More than 700 poiver boatsare expected to participate this

year in the annual FriendshipCruise on the Green and

Colorado Rivers in southernUtah. Trip includesovernight campout.

U T A H ' S F R I E N D S H I PAPPROXIMATELY 7 0 0 p o w e r bo at s. from throu ghou t the W est are ex-

pected to be in the 1 1 th annual runningof the Friendship Cruise down the Greenand up the Colorado Rivers in southernUtah over the Memorial Day weekend.

The river trip for pleasure boaters be-gins at the Green River State Park atGreen River, Utah on Saturday, May 27where boats will be registered until noon.

The fee is $25.00 and includes launch-ing and docking, gas services at strategicpoints, rescue services over the 196-milerun, ferrying your car and trailer fromGreen River to Moab, a feast at Moab atthe end of the run and entertainment atAnderson Bottom on Saturday night.

Much of the trip runs through the Can-yonlands National Park past Indian ruins,magnificent scenery and challenging rivercurrents. On Saturday night the MoabJaycees prepare a steak fry at AndersonBottom for $3.50 per plate. AndersonBottom lies within the park providing amagnificent setting for camping and re-laxing after the first day's journey.

There are 44 special sites along the wayranging from Moki Houses built in thecliffs to the haunts of early outlaws. Trav-


21/60

eling down the Green there are nearly30 sights before you reach the confluence.Travel ing up the C olorado there are newvistas at every turn. No power boat is per-mitted below the confluence. CataractCanyon, passable only with rubber rafts,lies on the Coora.do below the pointwhere theGreen joins.

As the power boats turn up the Colo-rado and buck the currents they head to-ward Elephant Canyon, Standing Rock,

1212

$ 1 . 7 8. $ 2 . 1 8$ 2 . 9 8$ 3 . 0 7

.$ .14

KODACOLOR FILMDEVELOPED & PRINTED

Jumbo Prirts [rectangular) .Jumbo Prims (square)Jumbo Prints and

New Roll of Kodacolor except 12612 Jumbo Prints :indNew Roll of Kodacolor film, 126Kodacolor Neg reprints (square) ...

All prices comparably low.Price sheets and envelopesavai able.No gimmick;,No lies47 years of continuousservice guarantees yourquality.M A R K E T B A S K E T P H O T O CO.

P. 0. Box 370 , Yuma, Arizona 85364 orP. O. Box 2830 , San Diego, Calif. 92 11 2

Coffee Pot Rock, Dead Horse Point andfinally, Moab and the waiting feast.

T h e run is held each year in coopera-tion with the National Park Service, theBureau of Land Management and severalvolunteer organizat ions. Over 300 volun-teers work on various facets of this uniqueannual junket covering nearly 200miles ofthe most fascinating river country in N o r t hAmerica .

For additional information write or callDes Barker, 415East 2nd South, Salt LakeCity, Utah 84111. The te lephone numberis (801) 521-2585 . []

J EE P O WN E R S " C A MP E R S . H U N T E R S * F IS H E R ME NTHINGS YOU'VE BEEN LOOKING FORAND SOME YOU'VE NEVER SEEN!

FLOTATION TIRES

REQUESTS SITODAY-INCLUDE ZIPCOtlE!

9201 CALIFORNIA AVE D e p t DSOUTH GATE CALIFORNIA 90280

There's a camper foreveryone's need atA laskan.Sold and installed only at Alaskan Camper factories at factory prices. Write today to the factorynearest you (or free folder describing the most advancedcamper on the road.

R. D. HALL MFC , INC., 9847Glenoaks Blvd., Sun Valley,(San Fernando Valley)California 91352. Dept.D-4Factory Outlet: ALASKANCAMPER SALES, INC.,Interstate 80 (half way betweenS.F.-Sacramento), Route 1,Box 332,Suisun City. Calif.94585, Dept.D-4

U.S. PATENT NO. 2679103

ALASKAN CAMPERSNORTHWEST, INC., 6410South 143rd Street. (Tukwila)Seattle, Washington 98168,Dept.D-4G . R. GRUBBS MFG., INC.,d/b/a Alaskan Camper Sales,9042 Longpoint Rd., Houston,Texas 77055, Dept.D-4FORT LUPTON CAMPERS,1100 Denver Ave., Fort Lupton,Colorado 80621, Dept.D-4

CANADIAN PATENT NO. 637-543

EINARS CAMPER MFG. CO.,d/b/a Alaskan Campers NorthCentral, 3726 North 9thAvenue, Sioux Falls, SouthDakota 57104, Dept.D-4PENNACAMP Div. ofLanheim, Inc., 401 WestEnd Avenue, Manheim,Penn. 17545, Dept.D-4MOBILE LIVINGPRODUCTS LTD.5539-6th Street S.E.Calgary, Alberta, CanadaDept D-4

21


22/60

C a l i f o r n i a F ie ld T r ip

FireOpalsInEl Pasoains

by Mary Frances Strong* '

itlifiii 'Pff l i

IT WASawarm, sunny, mid-winter dayon the Mojave Desert. The stillness ofthe canyon was broken bythe sounds ofmetal against rock and the muted tonesof people. Suddenly awoman's voice hap-pily cried, " Look what I found!" Inth epalm ofher hand, sparkling in the sun likean iridescent rainbow, lay a half-inchstone. She had found the coveted prizea fire opal.

This scene isnot uncommon atLeo No-wak's Opal Mine in th e ElPaso Moun-tains of California's Kern County. Asmight be expected, numerous rockhoundsvisit the mine where, for$1.00 per per-son, the) can spend a full weekend dig-ging gemstones.

Dur ing the six years Leo has been oper-ating theclaims, hehastried to makethings "easier" forthe diggers. Amod-est level camping area has been cut fromthe rather narrow canyon. A chic-saleis provided but there are noother facili-ties.

Leo uses askip-loader for digging intothe opal-bearing basalt to expose new ma-terial forcollectors towork. The opalsoccur as amygdules inthe dark basalt andare "extracted" by cracking the host rock.He also regularly moves the gangue ma-terial out of the way.

"I want tobesure the rockhounds ob-tain some opal and are happy with theirmaterial ," Leo told me. Evidently he issuccessful inthis, asmany people returneach weekend to trytheir luck.

The opal deposit was known formanyyears asthe Cowden Opal Mine. It wasin 1916 that theCowdens staked theirclaim. They had hoped todevelop age mmine and sell the fire opals commercial-ly. A1 25-foot shaft was sunk into Mem-be r 5 of theRicardo Formation whichwas exposed at the head of acanyon. Oneol thebasalt flows was also prospectedby small open cuts. Thedifficulty en-countered inremoving the opals from thematrix made commercial mining unfeasi-ble and the deposit was opened torock-hounds.

Topped byMow F (an olivene basaltup to 100 feet in thickness) Member 5of theRicardo consists of lake bed de-posits containing opal-chert, sand and


23/60

Culver City Rockand M ineral Club

members (oppositepage) dig intoopal-bearing basalt.

There are amplecamping areas

(above) forrockhounds whomove in (below)

after a skip loadercuts a trench.

Photos byJerry Strong

feet and is well exposed

The Ricardo Formation in the El Paso

The formation is also well known forthe opal-chert sediments.

It has also yielded a number of mam-Dr. J. C. Merriam describes the fos-his report, Relationship of Pliocene

alidn Faunas from the Pacific CoastNorth(University of California Geo-

Continued on Page 50


24/60

tells you how to fish for these

K U E J 1 D 1 S EF O RK U N K I S R Sby Stan JonesPhotos by the author


25/60

UGE, SPECTACULAR Lake Powell isnow seven years old. And, for the

I've had the good fortune to exploreToday, more than ever be-

My home in Page, Arizona stands al-

But these pleasures are not reservedYo u can share the joys of this

: marine biologists describe Lake

so be found. Th us, at Powell,

use they inhabit unfam iliar" envir-The longer I cling to the Isaac Walton

When Lake Powell, besure and have a

strong netfor thelarge mouth bass

and for thesebeauties (right)which ivill makea full-size meal.

On the otherhand, you can be

lazy and catchthe less game

fish which willtake your hook asyou sleep in your

boat.

W A L L E Y E P I KEIf Lake Powell, like Scotland's LochNess, harbors a seldom-seen but much-talked-about creature ol the deep it must

be the walleye pike. Each year nets of mar-ine biologist census-takers reveal increasednumbers of walleyes. But only a few an-glers have brought in the pike by rod andreel.The largest concentration of walleyes isin Padre Bay, but nets reveal them inother areas, too. Their insatiable appetitefor the big lake's thriving threadfin shadpopulation ensures that the species willcontinue to follow shad schools into allof Powell's waterways.Considered a native, rather than aplanted fish, walleye are thought to have"escaped" into Lake Powell from a tiny,older lake on Utah's Green River far tothe north. Powell's clean, deep water hasprovided an ideal climate for a pike popu-lation explosion. The species is certain tobecome more and more important to thelake's sportfishing.Named because of its white, blank-star corneas, the walleye is actually a vari-

ety of perch, not a true pike. It lives indeep water, feeds late in the day, andpound for pound can give any other LakePowell denizen plenty of competition in

the fightin'est fish race. The walleye's po-tential life span is about seven years andan individual can grow to great length.Slim and sleek, with a snout that makesJimmie Durante's look like a wart, theLake Powell walleye responds best totrolled artificial lures resembling min-nows.

In the middle of Powell's Padre Bay


26/60

a natural unnamed gravel islandhas a special appeal for the lake's

the isle areandcold. Schools of shim-

the larger fish have only to lie infor an evening meal. From those

the census takers have netted wall-as large asnine pounds. Anglers who

the island have not fared sorod and reel catchMy favorite lures for walleyes aresmall

(to which a short length ofcan be a d d e d ) ; a three-inch

and silver Rapala, or one of severalBut

of these trolled lures seems to causeMr. Walleye to blow his mind. Only if

himwill he stir his longtorso and dart after the bai t , c lampingdown on it with those big, ugly jaws, thenturn ing to head for the deep .

From that moment there is little ques-tion about the walleye's ability to makewar. And it will be a war fought on hisown ground-in thecold, dark waters ofth e baywhere he will useevery trick shortof surfacing to convince the angler thatall walleyes should be allowed to remain

The small canyons of Lake Powell test the angler's skill as he uses either waterdogsor plugs for the elusive trout and bast. Fishermen canalso admire the brilliantred

sandstone cliffsprovided they take time from catching the lunkers.right where they are found .

Few people want to work as l ong andas hard as is necessary to bag a significantnumber of walleyes. But I anticipate theday when a good percentage of Lake Pow-

G L E N C A N Y O N PAGE, ARIZONAOverlooking M O T E L

the Glen Canyon Damand Spectacular

Lake Powell SceneryReservations: (602) 645-245i

Managers: Mr. and Mrs. Michael Sandberg

American OilDiner's ClubCarte BlancheAmerican Express

ell anglers will seek outspecial challenges;a day when a man's piscatorial prowesswill bemeasured by thenumber andsizesof walleyes he can wrest from thedepths.The walleye bag limit is six fish. I knowof no one who has brought in such acatch.

B L A C K C R A P P I EThe angler who is out strictly for fun

(and some especially good eating) canhave a ball at Lake Powell bygoing afterblack crappie. First planted in 1965, thatspecies found Powell's waters ideal forbreeding and for a high rate of offspringsurvival. As a result, small plate-shapedcrappie arc everywhere in vast numbersand many individuals have grown big andfat.

Although crappie traditionally seekroiled waters in warm shallows such is notthe case at Lake Powell. Catches can bemost easily obtained in clean water at thebase of sheer cliffs; in clean waters sur-

L;ik* PowellBoatingAssoe. I H I SBoat Rentals 14' to 21 '

Starcraft BoatsMercury OutboardsWrife forfree rental brochure:

Box 1077-DPage, Arizona 86040

26


27/60

ravel shoals and islands, andthe clean shallows of slim canyons. I

forin such places, especially during sum-

No matter how large a lure Ithe crappie seem anxious to dart after

of my "unwanted" crappies werein size than the plug that hooked

!Also known as "calico bass" the black

is not quite the scrapper that isbeautiful mid-western cousin, the

But its meat is equallyThe average individual will

in at about three-fourths of abut some of the older crappies

for four or five years andto pie-tin proportions. Mar-

of the U t a h Di-of Wildlife Resources tells of one

two pounds ,There is no bag limit on black crappie;

of hooking them seem limitless,Crappie fishing remains a favorite ofwho like to still-fish with worms or

A youngster can throw such baitPowell ' s water at almost any point

its 1,800-niile-long shoreline andare he'll end up with a stringer of

the little panfish. Unless the juvenile an-gler is fourteen years old he needs no li-cense at Lake Powell .

If you insist on instant fishing successtry for this spirited little denizen. And ifyou like your catch fried over a campfirethere is no fish more pleasing to the out-door palate than the sweet-meat blackcrappie.

BLUEGILLS AND GREEN SUNFISHBluegills and green sunfish are native

to the canyons of the Colorado River andthey have thrived since being trapped inhuge Lake Powell. They will respond toanglers in much the same manner as blackcrappie. But the angler looking for aspecial thrill may want to pursue theselively fish with a fly rod.

To stand in an open boat and whip atapered line out across the placid lake sur-face can be a demand ing , but rewardingexperience. Some fair-size bluegills andsunfish can be expected to rise to yourchoice of a fly. Half -pounds are com-m o n ; the census-takers report that someindividuals grow to weigh a p o u n d !

The bluegills. sunfish and crappie- alltrue sunfish share a bright, shallowrealm, prefering sunshine, sandy bottoms

F R E E 1972l 5 6 P A G EC A T A L O GOF DETECTORS-BOOKS-MAPSMETAL-MINERAL DETECTORS

BYWHITESG O L D A KM E T R O T E C HG E O - F I N D E RP R E C I S I O NEXCELSI ORD E T E C T R O NFISHERC O M P A S S

G eneral E lectronic D etection C o.16238 Lakewood BoulevardBELLFLOWER, CALIFORNIA 90706

H A L L S C R O S S I N GM A R I N AOperated by Lake Powell Ferry Service, Blanding, UtahFrom KANAB: via Ferry from BullfrogFrom BLANDING or MEXICAN HAT, UTAH:

via one of Utah's most scenic drivesWrite Lake Powell Ferry Service, Inc., Blanding Utah orCall Moab Mobile Operator, ask for Unit 56

HALL'S CROSSING MARINA OFFERS:Gas and oil, live bait and lures, fishing gear, boat re-pair facilities, sold beer, ICE, groceries, slips and buoysfor rent. Overnight accommodations that sleep two toeight persons. Write or call for reservations. At thegeneral store: fresh milk, butter, eggs, frozen meat,cold cuts and canned items for camping or picnicking.Trout, bass and catfish abound in Lake Powell. Takea boat trip to Rainbow Bridge in one day. Two, threeand four-day tours to various parts of the lake whichinclude camping out and sleeping under the stars. Aferry service for travelers with light vehicles. All typesof pleasure craft for rent from 14-ft. to houseboats.Airstrip is 4,000 feet with tiedown facilities available.

27


28/60


29/60

frozen over for long periods (especiallyif covered by snow that shields inundatedoxygen-producing plants from the sun'srays) the brown trout can actually breathehimself to extinction.

Where are Powell's biggest browns andhow to fish for them ? No one reallyknows. But the brown's habitat and habitpatterns are historically those of his closecousin, the rainbow trout. My advice is togo rainbow trout fishing and, althoughthe odds are long, maybe Mr. Brown willtake a liking to your lure.So if you want to go fishing and getaway from the problem of having anotherangler ramming your boat or snarling yourline . . . if you warn to work hard for thebig ones or just lazily relax in the sun andlet the others take your hook . . . and ifyou want both spectacular scenery, clearblue waters and a combination of swim-ming, relaxation, peaceful camping underopen smog-free skies and :he companion-ship of others who enjoy the great out-doors-then try ray fishin' holeLakePowell.

Next month Sum Jones concludes hisLake Potvell fishing guide by tellingyo u ho w and where to catch the elusiveRainbow Trout and the hard fightingLarge Mouth Bass.

G r a n d C a n y o nR i v e r T r i p sMag nificent Scenery, Thrilling RapidsIn 10 days you travel over 300 miles throughrapids and calm v/aters.An Experience You'll Never Forget!O ther trips: Salmon, Middle F ork,G reen (C olo.), C ataract, D inosaurNational Monument, Yampa River.Pioneers of River RunningH a t c h R iv e r E x p e d i tio n sFor detai led informat ion wr i te: Ted Hatch,41 1 East 2nd North, Dept. DAA,Vernal, Utah 84C78.

C A N Y O N L A N D S280 million years old.

Have you been there yet?Y O U R W H O L E F A M I L Y wil l enjoy Canyonlands, where eons of t ime havebeen indel ibly etched in nature's most unique storehouse ol natural won-ders. And there's as much to do as there is to see.B R IN G YO U R B O A T lor a cruise do w n o ne of the wo rld's most scenic rivers.Come for Memorial Day weekend and join the 15th Annual FriendshipCruise down the Green River to the confluence and up the Colorado Riverto M oa b. For details of the Friendship Cruise, wr ite: CCR MA , Box 105, Mo ab ,Utah 84532.C A M P A T C A N Y O N L A N D S . Bring your camper, trailer or lent and enjoycamping in the cool refreshing mountains or on the colorful desert. Thereare improved camping areas throughout as well as modem motels andrestaurants.IF Y O U 'R E A F I S H IN G E N T H US IA S T , bring that rod and reel and try forsome big ones in Lake Powell or sparkling mountain streams. In the lallenjoy the world's greatest deer hunting.T R A I L B I K E , dune buggy or 4-wheel drive? Bring it along and see the rug-ged back country. Trail maps are available, or you can hire an experiencedguide.F O R F REE IN F O R M A T I O N about Canyonlands, write: Canyonlands, U.S.A.,702 South Ma in, Mo ab , Utah 84532. just ask for your complete C anyon-lands Vacation Kit with maps, brochures, accommodations and faci l i t iesinformation.

Don't let another year go by w itho ut visitingC a n y o n l a n d s , U.S.A.


30/60


31/60


32/60

/Miles Turnbull, publisher of the San ]uan Record.

the expedit ion.And, on this occasion, Lynn Lyman was

was the "trail boss " on ano the r ex-

mak ing the "trek" in four-

Th e annual three-day Hole -in-the-Jeep Tr ip' is held every October

nd is jointly sponsored by the San Janber of Com mer ce It is open to all interest-d families who want to follow this his-

toric trail and also see some of the mostspectacular country in the entire world.

'I he excerpt is fro/// D avid E. Miller's

detail /naps of the

passable since they have not been in usefor more than 75 years.

In order to visit the Hole-in-the-Rock,we retraced our previous day's trail and,returning to the paved highway, drove toHall 's Crossing on the Colorado River.

The following morning we relaxed ourdriving muscles as we boated down theriver to the Hole-in-the-Rock. Only byclimbing (and crawling in some places)up this steep incline and examining themarks of the wagon wheels still visibletoday can you comprehend the fortitudeand ingenuity of those Mormon pioneers.

As Miles Turnbill editor of the San[//an Cou/ity Record, who was on the tripstated, " I have read about this and now 1have seen itbut I still find it hard tobelieve it could have happened."

But it did, as recorded in the diary ofMilton Dailey, one of the pioneers:

The first forty feet down the wagonsstood so straight in the air it was no de-sirable place to ride and the channel wasso narrow the barrels had to be removedfrom the sides of the wagon in order tolet the wago n pa ss through. It had to berough locked on both hind irheels andthen a heavy rope attached behind towh/ch ab out ei^hl men held back as hardas they could to keep the wagon frommaking a dash down the forty feet. Thewon/en and children took hold of hands

The segment of the San Juan Missionwe followed is on the east side of the Col-rado River. We had left Blanding, Utah atdawn the day before and, travelingthrough country which is virtually unin-habited even today, wound our way oversandy deserts, down and up steep canyons,across mesas and through verdant creekbeds.

There were 24 four-wheel-drive vehi-cles and 75 people in our caravan. Manyof the drivers were from Arizona and Cali-fornia and having their first view of thespectacular scenery of Utah's San JuanCounty.

Cottonwood Hill, where Lynn showedus the panoramic view of the ColoradoRiver was the "end of the trail" since itis too difficult ev en for fo ur-w heel-d rivevehicles to descend the "little Hole-in-the-Rock" to Cottonwood Canyon andthence to the Colorado River.

Lynn pointed out that due to years ofrain, wind and erosion, many of the dug-outs and passageways which the Mormonscut through the country have become im-

-


33/60

and did down this forty feet as theycouldn't walk.

And Dailey was describing only onepart of the descent!

Prior to the HoIe-in-the-Rock descent,plans had beer made to bring bargesdown the river to ferry the wagons across.The rafts were hand-oared and were ap-proximately 1 8 feet long and 16 feet wide,carrying two wagons at a time. The horsesand cattle were forced to swim the river.The crossing was made on January 26,1880, three months after leaving Escalan-te on what was expected to be a six-weekt r ip. Two days after the crossing, the riverfroze and for the next three months thepioneers fought freezing weather andsnow.

Here is an excerpt from the diary ofPlat te D. Lyman:

Friday, Feb. 13th, 78,30. Have beenbusy during past 3 days moving our wag-ons up the Cottonicood Hill w here it tookfrom 4 to 7 span of horses or the samenumber of oxen to move 1 wagon. Theweather has been very cold and stormypart of the time We are now cam ped 2miles from the summit at what we callcheese camp. Two men from Panguitchcame into camp a few day ago, they willstop and work on the road. They broughtus 200 lbs. of pork and 40 lbs. of cheesefrom the Tithing Office to be divided

. : < < - -

Although the Morvion pioneers nearly 100 years ago described "The C hute"(above) as a minor obstacle, today for four-wheel-drive vehicles it is a supreme testof a driver's skill. Rugged country through ivhich the Mo rmons blazed a trail (low-er left) is seen from Cottoniuood Hill with the Colorado River and Hole-in-the-Rock in the distance.among 10 men. The cheese was sold atauction hence the name of this camp.

As stated previously, it is the sectionfrom the east side of the Colorado Riverto Bluff, Utah that our group was follow-ing. So on our return trip from Cotton-wood Hill we were going in the same dir-ection as the Mormon pioneersalbeit inmuch more comfort.

Cheese Camp is located between thepreviously mentioned "Little Hole-in-the-Rock" and The Chute. It was in the areaof Cheese Camp that we made our firstnight's camp after driving through thisspectacular country of southern Utah.

The country is indeed spectacular, butthe terrain is such that it tests the exper-tise and ability of even the most seasonedfour-wheel driver. And T he Ch ute is aprime example. I had been previouslywarned that my ability would be testedwhen we were ready to "Shoot the Chute."I was the "desert rat" among this groupof mountain-type Utah drivers, so I figur-ed they were just kiddingthat is until we

arrived at the top of the Chute. It is a V-shaped crevice of slick rock which des-cends five hundred feet in what appearedto me in a 90 degree vertical slope.

One of the guides, seeing the look onmy face, asked me if 1 wan ted him to pilotmy jeep down the grade. Frankly, I want-ed to say "yes" but then the thought of allthose watching who would later say "thatDesert Magazine guy sure chickened out"kept me back of the wheel.

The grade is so steep that only one ve-hicle is allowed down at a time. Afterwhat seemed like an hour (it took all offive min utes) I arrived at the bottom withall four wheels on the ground.

However, on the return trip, I didn'tuse four wheels. At least that is whatLynn Lyman told me when I arrived atthe top. "You are the only driver I eversaw who drove up The Chute by just usingthe front right and back left wheel," hesaid. "As a matter of fact, you didn'tdrive, you kind of flew up."

Continued on Page -J833


34/60

Jacob Hamb lin Arch,named after an early

Mormon explorer, towersabove the riders as theystart their second day's

adventure down CoyoteCanyon toward the

Bscalante River

THE VAST wilderness area around Es-calante in Southern Utah is one ofthe few unspoiled public lands remainingin the United States, so when my friendsasked me to join them on a four-day horse-back riding trip down Coyote Canyon 1immediately accepted their invitation to goalong.Plans had been made to haul the horsesfrom Cedar City to Kaiparowits Plateauwhich lies south of Escalante and approxi-mately 1 59 miles from Cedar City. Ourgroup consisted of sixteen "young" menwhose ages ranged from 14 to 70. Somewere father-and-son combinations and therest were good friends. Nineteen horses,including three pack animals, were loadedinto pickups, stock trucks and horse trail-ers as we began our search for adventure.We started our trip on Utah State 14which travels over Cedar Mountain. The

A swimming holeprovided a bath aft:hard day's ride. 'er a


35/60

horses neighed in challenge as we passedthe Cedar Breaks National Mon umen tturn-off, beautiful Navajo Lake and DixieNational Forest. After turning onto U.S.89 and then Utah State 12, our convoypassed through Red Canyon where thehorses were a bit spooked as we wentthrough several small tunnels which cutthrough the massive cliffs. This road alsoleads through Bryce Canyon NationalPark.

Arriving at the friendly community ofEscalante we stopped for a few minor re-pairs. Although the mechanic at the ser-vice station was busy, he readily allowedus to use his equipment an d then wishedus "good luck and happy riding" as weheaded south.

About four miles south of Escalante weturned off the oil road and continuedsouth for 40 miles on a good gr ade d d irtroad. Along the way we passed such namesas 10 Mile Wash, Half-Way Hollow, De-vil ' s Garden, Collet Top, Twenty MileWash, Early Weed, Cat Pasture, Big Hol-low and King Mesa, finally arriving atWillow Tank in Hurricane Wash, whichwas the start of our riding adventure. Wil-low Tank is one of the few watering holesfor the many cattle which graze on theBureau of Land Management public lands.

The graded road we took from Escal-ante, which passes the places mentionedabove, follows approximately the trail ofthe stalwart Mormon pioneers who nearlyone hundred years ago made their famoustrek from Escalante to the San Juan River.

The day was quite warm and there waslittle shade for the horses, so we hurriedly-unloaded the gear and filled our saddlebags, strapping our sleeping bags on theback of the animals .

At first the terrain was dry, desolate andnot very inviting. The sight of bleachedbones of a cow and a lizard looking forshade made me question my decision tojoin my friends. But that soon changed aswe started down and the canyon walls be-came steeper.

W e finally came to where a small trickleof water was coming out of th e cliffswhich was greedily drunk by the horses.The trickle kept getting larger and, as werounded a bend, there was Coyote Creek.

The air was cooler now as the canyonwalls shielded us from the sun. The sidesof the canyon walls came right down tothe stream's edge, forcing us to walk ourhorses in the middle of the stream bed.Little frogs kept jumping aside as they

avoided the horses' hoofs. This beautifulcanyon is similar to those T have seen inZion National Park with grasses, fernsand other colorful vegetation growing inthe canyon walls. The sandstone rock for-mations are mostly red in color with spat-terings of white intermingled in the strata.

During the late afternoon the shadowswere longer and the canyon deeper andmore narrow. Jacob Hamblin Arch wasthe site of our first night's camp. Namedafter an early Mormon explorer, this hugenatural rock formation framed the sun asit gradually set in the west.

The horses seemed grateful as the cinch-es were undone and the saddles taken fromtheir back. After washing off their sweatand dirt with the water from the creek,we tethered the animals along the creekbed so they could feed from the grass.

Wood was gathered and the roaring firesoon heated the Dutch ovens which smell-ed of frying mutton and sheepherder" ta ters" which is a delicious mixture ofpotatoes, bacon and onions. Although wewere reluctant to drink the water fromthe creek, we solved the water problem bycollecting drops of fresh water in a plasticbag as the precious liquid dropped down

Coyote Creek is a labyrinth of canyons an d sheer sandstone walls. Photos by author.55


36/60

SOUTHERN

LANCJTodays best bargainfor RECREATION,RANCHING, RETIREMENTAND INVESTMENT

F O R F RE E I NF O R M A T I O ND. W. CoRRyREAL ESTATEBox 966Cedar City, Utah 84720(801) 586-6162

from a spring in the cliff above.A s I snuggled into my sleeping bag and

watched the glowing embers of the fire,I thought this was really an experience thatevery father and his son should have:plenty of tasty food, lots of good compan-ionship and, above all, sharing the adven-ture of the day and the beauty of the night.I fell asleep under the twinkling of themillions of stars shining from the heavensabove.

The next day we continued down Coyo-te Creek, looking at the colorful and uni-que formations. We saw Indian ruins highon the ledges of the canyon walls andwondered how these prehistoric peoplegained entrance to their homes. Additionalarches were seen, such as Jughand le Arch,Skyline Arch and many smaller and un-named arches. In several places, due torock slides and waterfalls, we had to leadour horses above the stream bed.

N e a r the end of Coyote Canyon whereit flows into the Escalante River, the trailfollows along the mountain and at onepoint wewere 1,000 feet above the stream.From here we could seeSkyline or StevensArch silhouetted against the blue Utahsky.

Our trail led down to the Escalante Riv-er. Our original objective was to ride allth e way to Lake Powell, but as we nearedthe lake we encountered quicksand, so wereluctantly turned back. Another night oftelling stories around the campfire endedanother great day.

T h e sun was shining as we awakenedthe next day and, since we were ahead ofour schedule, we hiked to a nearby water-fall. The water was just right as we stoodunder the rocky ledge. The water wasn'tdeep enough to give the kids a dunking,but we tried.

I will always remember our last nightin the canyon. Gentle rain started fallingand thunder echoed through the canyonwalls. To avoid being swept away in aflash flood, we moved to higher ground.Soon, however, the storm passed and weonce again fell asleep under the open sky.As we emerged from the canyon and re-turned to the waiting trucks, each indivi-dual was tired and rode in silence, butthere was a memory and a desire to returnagain some day. If you're looking for thattrip to tell to your grandkids, try theCoyote Creek/Escalante River by horse-back or backpacking, it's G R E A T ! ! !

W e t h e r i l l I n nAt the Gateway to Monument Valley

Located in Kayenta, one mile north ofthe Navajo Trail on Arizona Highway 464

(602) 697-3231 for reservationsTours arranged

K a y e n t aT r a d i n g P o s tIndian arts and crafts obtained directlyfrom the Navajo people. Old pawn stillavailable here. Camping supplies, freshmeat and groceries in the shoppingcenter.

One block north of the Wetherill Inn.


37/60

W hen you haveth a t de serted feelingdepend on Johnson 2-way radio.

Smart RV own ers d o. Because Johnson two -wa y radioscan get your message throug h . . . whether it's anemergency, a call for road directions, or justexchanging information with one of the many otherCitizens radio-equipped travelers. Johnson radios haveadvanced performance features, l ike built-in electronicvoice compression to pu nch your signals through whereothers can't. Plus rugged construction that can take iton those rough roads. And should your radio everneed service, it's important to know that Johnsonradios are U.S.-made and b acked b y over 550authorized service centers nation wide . . . so parts andservice are available wherever you go. Isn't it time youstarted to enjoy the fu n, safety and conven ience ofyour own Johnson personal two-way radio? Pricesstart at unde r $100.

Messenger 323. Johnson's deluxe citizens two-way radio fortop performance in any recreational vehicle. Featuresfingertip operation on all 23 channels, narrow band filteringto virtually eliminate adjacent channel interference, plus anilluminated meter to show received signal strength andtransmitter output.Write today for the name of your nearest dealer and com pletedetails on the entire line of Johnso n person al Iwo-wa y radios.

JOHNSON personal two-way radio.E. F. Johnson Company, Waseca, Minnesota 56093 T he help machine.

37


38/60

Desert

ANIEST OF birds, the roadrunner isthe desert 's jester. A mountebank in

flippant tail. Not a whit cares he for the

ives his life with gusto, engaging in fun

But, like many a clown, this bird isobody's fool. He has great native saga-ity, quick wits incl a very tough body

Take the mat ter of food. What soundsgood for today: grasshoppers? crickets?aterpillars? beetles? centipedes, mice? Orhow about that l izard legging it across the

sand ? Swift as the Jzard is, the road run-ner is even faster. A flurry in the dust, a

snap of the long bill , and the lizard disap-pears from sight, loser to the featheredspeed-demon.

Built for getting over the ground at as-tonishing speed, the roadrunner is a fineexample of what can be done with a bird'sbody to make it a two-legged sprinter. Hislegs have been greatly elongated for run-ning action, and the muscles of his pelvic-r eg io n c o r r e s p o n d i n g l y in cr ea se d i nlength, producing a pair of pedal extremi-ties that can drive him over the ground ata speed of 18 mph. Streaking across thedesert, the roadrunner makes himself ashorizontal as possible, his long neckstretched out in front, his narrow bodyflattened, his tail streaming out behind.Inherited from his ancestral Cuckoo rela-tives, his long tail is under constant mus-cular control. It aids in keeping his bal-ance; it is used as a rudder for quickdirection changes, so characteristic of hiswild zigzag course; and, fanned out sud-enly, it acts as a quick brake.

Desert -expert Edmund Jaeger reports

witnessing some Olympics where the con-testants were two hawks and a roadrun-ner on the lam. The hawks, sure of a din-ner, were pursuing the roadrunner who,gaily dodging, led them a merry chasearound a creosote bush, ducking and run-ning back and forth until one hawk gaveup entirely and flew away. The other litunder a nearby bush to get his breath. Theroadrunner promptly rushed over to wherethe hawk was and stirred him up againfor more fun and games, pestering himuntil the hawk was glad to depart andleave this nutty bird alone. And the road-runner, topknot high, and clacking hisbill insolently, tore off at top speed.

To a roadrunner, there's nothing like abattle of wits and skill and daring to en-hance the appetite. Hence his proclivityfor snake hunting. And, if i t 's a small rat-tler, so much the better. The bird circlesthe coiled and rattling snake just out ofreach, going round and round, feinting,jumping, moving, dancing here , there ,everywhere until the snake has difficulty


39/60

Even the bird's plumage adds to the

A few good whacks with the bill soft-carcass for easy swallowing and

So much for the problem of provender

What about coping with the extremes inRoadrunners are very apt to sun them-early morning hours and

Investigations showed the birds were

diture normally needed for the job, a greatsaving in energy.It also turns out these birds save energyduring the cold desert nights by lettingtheir temperatures fall as low as 93 or 94degrees from a normal night temperatureof about 101. Coasting through periods ofadverse temperature this way, and beingable to warm up quickly in the morningby direct solar heat, roadrunners have itmade. Hence their remarkable ability tosurvive winter temperatures in their range.Particularly valuable this, since proteinfood in the form of insects and lizards andsnake is apt to be scarcer, the plant substi-tutes not furnishing as much energy heat.The roadrunner copes with high tem-

recently discovered by Zoologist Ohmart:It acts as an accessory kidney, for such agland can get rid of about six times asmuch salt as a kidney system at the sametime. Salt removal is extremely importantfor the roadrunner not alone as a tempera-ture control factor, but because he takesso much of it aboard in his lizard diet.Lizards, particularly the vegetariankinds, are loaded with it because theirdiet of plants is high in salt content. It isalso believed that the roadrunner has asystem of reabsorbing body water in thelining part of his intestine and rectum.His feces is further dried out in the cloacabefore final elimination which also saveswater.

Nothing seems to bother these fun-loving and zany denizens of the desert.perature living with the same aplomb. Tobe sure Zoologist Calder found that thebirds in the Mojave and Sonoran desertswere less active in midday at air tempera-tures around 105 degrees, their inactivitythus reducing the need for unloading ex-cessive body heat, and saving water by cut-ting down on the need for evaporativecooling. But the roadrunner also has an-other big water conservation deal of hisown, besides sensibly taking it easy whenit's too hot.

This is a salt secreting g land in his nose,

Plenty remains to be learned about: thedaily lives of roadrunners. Biologists Kav-anau and Ramos decided to play somegames with captive birds, a couple ofcharmers they had hand raised. They in-stalled an activity wheel in the birds' quar-ters and sat back to see what would hap-pen. An activity wheel is a gadget thatprovides a chance for a caged animal toget a lot of exercise by running an endlessstraight path as long as he likes.

Keeping track of the times the birdsContinued on Page 52

V)


40/60


41/60


42/60

andbekept that way. Joining a

toex-atMonticello, Utah, has for several

ayear to Land ofaid The Maze. Kent

thetours, knows theof jeeping and hik-

itscanyons, mesas and valleys.Our group of five travelers, two drivers,left Monticelli' driving north on U.S.toGreen River. Utah, as itwas neces-tocross theColorado River atMoab,

at the town of Greento enter the country west of the

Our first days driving across the roll-of theGreen River desert

notprepare theguests for thestop at

French's Spring, hidden inasmall can-yon. Kent said thespring hadproducedwater as far back as he could remember,bu t the glory of this little oasis in thearid country are thewild roses that growin profusion on the shadowed banks ofthe spring and fill the airwith fragrance.Another stop at the Millard CanyonOverlook provides a first glimpse of theimpressive expanse of Elaterite Basin be-low. Our first camp ismade onthe rim ofthe Orange Cliffs where the view east to-wards theColorado River can only bede-scribed as a giant staircase descending indisorderly fashion from the edge of theworld. Inthe distance, needle-topped Bag-pipe and Elaterite Buttes dominate overall.They stand tall among a collection of les-ser monuments with Elaterite Basin wherewide or narrow benches break thewholeinto erosional levels.

E S T A B L I S H E D 1 9 0 6 SEE our choice stock oIndianHandicrafts and Souvenirs conveni-ently located on Rim, 300 ft. eastof Hopi House.

OPEN ALL YEAR

INDIANOn Free Exhibit ion World 's MostFamous Painting ofGrand Canyonby Louis Ak in .O N THE S O U T H R I MO F G R A N D C A N Y O NS e e I n d i a n C o u n t r y !

DIFFERENT AND SPECTACULAR TOURS BY FOUR WHEEL-DRIVEMonument Valley

Ear of theWind and Moccasin ArchesMystery V alleyArcheologi :a l W onder lan d, Double Arch

White MesaWhite Mesa Arch

Hunt's MesaSpiderweb Arch

Blue CanyonColored Monoliths and Mushrooms

Hoskinni MesaD i n o s o u r T r a c k s , I n d i a n R u i n s

Poncho HouseSpectacular Prehistoric Ruin:>

Special TripsCan Be Arranged

Exclusive Travel Guide forPack Trips to R ainbow BridgeSee article in this issue[\1onument ValleyGolden^ a>ar]ds Tours

^ ^ ^ DrtV TOT 1/ A VCkIT A A Dl-7/Mt.I A O i A I I 602-697-3424BILL a n dD I L L A R DC R A W L E Y BOX 1 8 7 , K A YE N T A , A R I Z O N A 8 6 0 3 3

Our guides had told uswe would "do"the Flint Trail the next morning. Some ofthe guests experienced a case of, "Surelyyou aren't going to drive down that?"when they had their first look at the road-way. Over the edge of the Orange Cliffs,the trail washacked out of theWingatewall originally as a passage for sheep andcattle, andclings to thecliff in a ratherfragile manner.The jeeps had a sneaky way of slidingover large rocks, crossing repaired wash-outs with inches to spare at theedge ofnothing, then backed a couple of timesto turn hairpin corners. Some of the pas-sengers preferred to hop-scotch over therocks and take pictures rather than staywith thevery competent drivers, who de-clared it was perfectly safe to ride.With theWingate section of the trailbehind us, we followed the meanderingjeep road through Elaterite Basin acrossthe colorful Chinle strata along theclifftalus ledges high above theTeapot Rocklandmark in the Waterhole Flats country.Finally, our drivers told us we were"down" andmade our camp on the flatrock bordering Waterhole Canyon belowthe Orange Cliffs.W e hadcrossed tortured, eroded land,

from thehighest rims of the cliffs, tothebase of the talus below the Wingate wallsthat are the Orange (Jiffs, inone day, andnow ourview wasnarrowed as oureyes


43/60

the al ignment of the cliffs toin the

misty-lavender as daylightlended with evening shadows. They lie

on the land in a jagged north-south linefrom the Flats area to about forty milesnorth where they become a part of theGreen River canyon walls. They cannot beignored as they dominate the highest levelof the Land of Standing Rocks.

We experienced more up and downskilled jeeping on the th ird day when weheaded the main lateral canyons of Calfand Range Canyons, two main tributariesto the Colorado, as we traveled slowly to-ward the pinnacles of s tanding up rocksthat speared the sky on the north horizon.By evening we were at the base of thequarter-mile long, sinuous, crossbeddedformation that resembles a giant lizard,

BREAKFAST !ANYTIME j

OPEN 7 DAYS i24 HOURS

A DAY2 0 6 S. M A I N iS P O R T S M A N ' S C A F E

L O N E P I NE , C A L I F .

Looking back toward theDoll House figures on thetrail to Beehive Arch.

an d is called Lizard Rock. We camped inthe heart of Land of Standing Rocks, ofwhich an observing old-timer remarked,"There is as much country standing up asthere is ly ing down."Here at Lizard Rock the full sweep ofthis magnificent country becomes appar-ent. Detached buttes, monuments, pin-nacles, minarets, lonely standing spiresframe the overall scene of the, for themost part , unknown and mysterious Maze.

The ridge of stone, sand and the disin-tegrat ing red Oregon Cutler formationsthat surround Lizard Rock forms the di-vide between the east and the west Maze.Canyons east of the ridge cast their siltedwater directly into the Coloradothosewest of the ridge flow to the Green andeventually join the Colorado at the river'sconfluence.

One observes the Maze, but unbeliev-ingthe span of the low plateau into thedistance, below the higher standing rocks,appears as a fairly level rock valley with

F IN D M O I E T R E A S U R E SW H E R E O T H E R S H A V E M I S S E D !

T R Y T H E RIP ;M E T A L - M I N l M l D E T E C T !

LANCE DES IGN

l $ 1 2 4 . 5 0

U U M P A S S E X C I U S I V E S ^W I D E - S C A N S E A R C H L O O P !G R O U N D C O N D I T I O N A D J U S T M E N T !

D E A L E R SPHONE (503)357-7117

C O M P A S SE L E C T R O N I C S C O R P .3619 PACIF IC AVE.FORES T GROV E,

O R E . 97116 D E P T . 139

NO W AT C A N Y O N L A N D S N A T I O N A L P A R K !

HA S THES E R V I C E S YOUW I L L N E E DT railer P ark with Hookups P ropane Service Station G roceriesSnack Bar P i cn ic T a b le s C a m p i n g A r ea 4WD for R e n t Ice BeerWe offer: Guided trips into Canyonlands Free slide show every evening

Scenic flights Limited number of overnight accommodations^Four-wheel-drive tours with Canyonlands Tours are available

Headquarters for Canyonlands AviationLocated at the east entrance of the park, The Needles District

For information and reservations write: Canyonlands Resort, Box 638D, Moab, Utah 84532or telephone 801 2 5 9 - 7 7 6 6 in Moab or 801 5 8 7 - 2 8 8 2 in Mont icel lo


44/60

As you approach thethe bumps acquire height, areand you realize these are the top-

of plunging canyon walls thatand turn upon themselves until the

the appearance of anns> depth that has no

or end.Hidden within these depths exists a

of alcoves, caves, patinatedand glens of untouched

One may stroll along the

MT. WHITNEY PORTAL0000*O#STS/fy/C^f.'SN/NG, H/KINS, B/ & 77?S,! CMC, 8OCAMPS,

LONE PINE C.e. ' '38 CAMPS, IIP/CNtCS, 7 'n STOVES, eesrpooMS,WArefi, FORESTSERVICE

TUTTLEI CREEK C.&.5 2 0 0 ' BL^,1. \piturns, nrteiwf THIS ARBA FAMOUS

LOTT0NW00D LKS a ' v , ^ ^ FORMATIONS);F U T U R E T B A I L P E A K . ' . \ l ^ , ^w >^ ; ._ ' ' . " ^ ^ i , >w

LONETO DEATH VALLEYL O N E P I N E

C H A M B E R O F C O M M E R C E"Galeuuy />Death Valley"Offices in Department o1 Water and Power Bldg

B o x 5 5 2 , L o n e P i n e , C a l if o r n ia 9 3 5 4 5

winding, narrow sandstone tops of TheMaze canyons, but will always be stoppedby a sheer wall that drops abruptly five toeight hundred feet. There was much hik-in g by the guests all around this area, forit cast its magic spell and they could notseem to absorb enough of its beauty.

It was here the camera buffs unveiledthe choicest tools of their craft, and hada field day. In the clear air, all colors arebright anddis t inctred isvery red,greenshave depth, pinks, yellows, blues, choco-late browns are intense.

East of Lizard Rock are a group of longflat rock formations standing on edgequite close together called The Fins.There is a great arch in one of the canyonwalls near The Fins, and it is named Ran-dall Henderson Arch, dedicated to thefounder of Desert /Magazine who explor-ed andspent much time with Kent here inStanding Rocks in 1956. It was Randallwho named the beautiful little park nearthe river cliff, "TheDol l House ."

O n the fifth day we jeeped to The DollHouse . The one hour trip seemed all tooshort when thevehicles stopped in a mea-dow deep with grass, surrounded by the"doll" f igures of Randall Henderson 'simagination. The pink and white spiresar e a continuation of the Needles forma-tion directly across the river in Canyon-lands National Park. They encircle thelovely grassland meadow into an enchant-ed private world.

The Doll House east wall is the canyonrim 1,800 feet above the Colorado River.A horse trail switchbacks down the steeptalus to the broad meadows of SpanishBottoms at the edge of the river, and issaid to be part of a trail used by the Span-iards who put together the Spanish Stairs,a section on the path that was so sheer,incredibly large slabs of sandstone werecantilevered into position to supporthorses and men. The Spanish Bottomsriver crossing was well known amongearly settlers and was, according to re-ports, used by outlaw Butch Cassidy'sgang on their way to Robbers Roost hide-out quarters. The trail is still used by hik-ers who can last the 1,800 feet down, andback to the top.

An unusual Arch with an unusual nameis Beehive Arch, a short walk from TheDoll House, and certainly worth seeing.A most pleasant stroll for the less physi-cal guests who just want to stretch theirlegs a. bit, take pictures and relax.

The jeep road ends at The Doll House so we retraced our route to Waterho leFlats and made our exit from theLand ofStanding Rocks through terraced country,south to the Colorado River bridge atHite, and back to Monticel lo .

Visitors depart with reluctance thisamazing land that has known Nature 'sfury in its shaping. It has been this writ-er's privilege to visit it in all seasons,and observe its moods. Sullen in the heatof July and August or gay and brilliantafter a shower that sends precious waterrippling over sand and bedrock with noisysounds of its journey to the river. After asnowfall-- -aloof, icy, with chilling windsthat whip through draws and whistlethrough cedars andpinons. Atnight in thedeep canyonswhere indigo-black skies,alive with sparks, will not allow one tosleep for fear of missing something im-portant . On the foot trails, where lifewalks softly with one.

Awareness and appreciation of the pow-er of Nature to build, then destroy thebeauty created, is the largest feeling onecarries with them when they have passedthrough "The Land of Standing Rocks."

Although he looks deadly, the Califor-nia King Snake is harmless. Hefeeds onsmaller snakes and lizards. Averagingbetween three and four feet, he hasblack andwhite bands.,ROLL-UPSCREENSFOR AUTO WINDOWS

Shadow Shade Screens al low ful l v is io n.Reduces sun's rays-road glare. Aids air con-d i t ioners . On spr ing rol lers .A must for hots u m m e r d r i v i n g . D E A L E R S H I P S O P E N -Fu l l - par t t im e. Huge marke t . Wr i te Sha-dow Screen Div. P A N O R A M A PRO-D U C T S 237 S. Palm, Hemet , Ca.9 2 3 4 3 .

F I N D B U R I E D T R E A S U R EFIVE PATENTED MONEY SAVING

TRANSISTORIZED DETECTORSF*OMf7g5f7SEARCH HEADS INCREASE RANGE

Write ForFREE CatologSOLCO DEPTQAZTENNENT,N.J. 07763


45/60

.

r >


46/60

A m e r i c a ' s N e w e s t N a t i o n a l P a r kE STABLISHED IN 1937, Utah's CapitolReef National Monument originallywas comprised of 61 square miles cover-ing some of the country's most spectacu-lar scenery. The area is so spectacular andpristine that the former Monument hasbeen expanded to 215,000 a

Documents

197205 Desert Magazine 1972 May