1920s Chemise Instructions

7/30/2019 1920s Chemise Instructions

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This top was inspired by a lovely antique in my collection. Its a project that is easily done in a day (or lessthe techniques used include drafting a simple pattern, creating pin tucks, lace application, and a rolled hem. For minitial version of this reproduction, I used a simple polyester bridal lining I picked up at my fabric store, as theweight and opacity closely matched the original this was based on. China silk, light silk twill, or a lightweight linenwould be lovely options for material as well. For embellishment, the original sported a wide lace piece at the front,and narrower lace along the sides and back. In the spirit of this mix and match idea, you can certainly use lacemotifs, pieces scrounged from lace yardage as a centerpiece and then supplement it with tape lace. For myversion, I used a single piece of vintage tape lace that had a wave edge.

This tutorial is meant as a base for your project; variations and customizing is encouraged! Try it in a softprint, skip the pin tucks, substitute self fabric spaghetti straps for the ribbon, or maybe even try some lace insertioI hope you enjoy this tutorial, and I would love to hear your thoughts and feedback about it! Please feel free to drome a line at: [email protected] or visit my blog: elegantmusings.com. Have fun sewing!!!

Please note: this tutorial is intended for your personal use only. Please do not redistribute, republish or copy thesinstructions and images. Interested in sharing this tutorial with others? Please link to my website. If you'd like to usthe instructions to make garments for sale, however, you are welcome to!
mailto:[email protected]://elegantmusings.com/http://elegantmusings.com/mailto:[email protected]


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You will need to take the followingmeasurements on yourself using a tape

measure (or piece of string and a marker, ifyou dont have a tape measure):

Bust (fullest measure over the breasts) + 1:

Over bust (measure above where thebreasts begin to swell away from the chest;generally this is only a 1-2 difference) +3/4:

Over bust to waist (from approximatelywhere the top of the chemise would be, to the

waist) + 6-8:

Hip (fullest measure about 8-9 below thewaist) + 1:

(Write your measurements here to keep handy.)

Bust:

Over bust:

Over bust to waist:

Hip:

On the pattern paper, draw a rectangle thatis 1/4 the hip width by the over bust towaist measure. On one of the long lines,label this center front fold.


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Draw another rectangle as in step 2, onlylabeling one long line with center backfold. At the top, measure from the centerback fold 1/4 of the bust measure plus

1/8. Connect the top line to the bottom (hip width)line at the side.

Add 1/2 seams to the sides and bottom ofall pieces. Cut out pattern pieces, beingsure to label with a grain line parallel to thecenter front and center back line, as well as

the seam allowances and project name.


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Cut out the pattern pieces in your fabric. Donot mark the front pin tucks. Set aside theback piece for now.

Begin with the pin tucks along the frontsection first. Lightly press a crease down thecenter front, creating a line. Measure 6down the center front fold from the top; mark

with a pin.

Stitch a scant 1/16 to 1/8 from the fold tothe pin. Do not back tack at the beginningor end of stitching. This tends to makelightweight fabrics ripple. Leave a tail at the

beginning and end, using 2-3 overhand knots to

secure the threads. Clip threads close to stitching.Lightly press to set the stitches.


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Measure 3/8 (or tuck spacing as indicatedon your pattern) from the stitching line of thecenter front tuck. Mark with two pins, creatingtiny pinholes (or leave in fabric for now).

Lightly press a crease down the pin-markedline parallel to the center front pin tuck.(Remove pins if applicable.) Measure 5 fromtop edge. Stitch a scant 1/16 to 1/8 from the

fold to pin. Lightly press to set the stitches.


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Repeat for 4 long pin tuck. Repeat 5 and 4pin tucks for the other side of the center fronttuck. Press. Press 3 of the pin tucks to theleft and 2 to the right. Press center front

crease out.

Take the back section, and match up rightside seam of front and back, wrong sidestogether. Stitch 1/4 from edge. Press to setstitches and grade seam allowance. Now

turn the seam to the inside, and press right sidestogetherover the seam created. Stitch a scant 1/4from edge, enclosing the first stitching line within thenew seam (to create a French seam). Press to setstitches and press seam open.

Open the length of the chemise and beginpinning the lace trim to the top edge,centering the top edge of the chemise in themiddle of the lace (so half is over top the

fabric and half is off). Pin the length of lace in placealong the entire top edge of the front and back pieces(or as is applicable with your lace design. If youreusing a central lace motif and tape lace on theremainder of the top, do the tape lace first and thenthe motif).
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/149http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/149


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With your sewing machine set to a narrow,small zigzag stitch, begin stitching along thebottom edge of lace (over the fabric) from theright side. Be sure to catch the lace and

follow the contours of the lace, removing pins as yousew so as not to create rippling. Stitch along the entire

top edge on the back and front; lightly pressingstitches to set after stitching.

Using a small, sharp pair of scissors (regularsize fabric shears are not recommended),carefully cut away the top edge of excessfabric above the zigzag line, leaving a narrow

seam allowance. If your fabric tends to ravel, apply asmall amount of a seam finish (such as Fray Check, oreven white glue) to the fabric only.

With wrong sides together of left side seam(the seam that was not sewn), stitch 1/4from edge from the lace to bottom fabricedge. To prevent the lace from becoming

tangled as it is sewn, place a piece of tissue paper (orother lightweight paper) underneath the lace to stitchover. This will provide a stable back for the feed to griponto as the machine sews. After stitching, simply ripthe paper away. Lightly press the seam to set stitches,and grade the seam allowance.


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Now turn the seam to the inside, and pressright sides togetherover the seam created.Stitch a scant 1/4 from edge (using thetissue paper under the lace), enclosing the

first stitching line within the new seam (to create aFrench seam). Press to set stitches and press seam

open.

Measure 4 out on either side of the center

back, marking each point with a pin. Cut twopieces of ribbon, about 18-20 long. Foldone end of each under and press. With the

folded under edge towards the chemise, pin the ribbonto the inside of the top back edge, about 3/8 from thefabric edge. Repeat with other piece of ribbon at theother back point.
http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/149http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/149


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Using a needle and thread, stitch the pinnededges of ribbon to the chemise, using backstitches for strength. You could also using asewing machine, but the effect would be

more noticeable.

Measure 4 1/2 out on either side of thecenter front top edge, marking each pointwith a pin. Try on the chemise top (beingcareful of the pins!), and determine the

length of the ribbon straps by pinning them over themark. Remove top and trim ribbon ends, leaving 3/8extra for turning under. Turn under ends and repeatattachment as for back ribbon straps.

To hem the chemise blouse, you can doeither a straight hem, turned up 1/4 and then1/4 again (enclosing the raw edge in thefold), and stitched by machine. Or, for a fine

finish typical of lingerie of this period, use a rolled hem(a fantastic tutorial for creating a rolled hem is here).
http://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-hand-rolled-hemhttp://www.colettepatterns.com/blog/tutorials-tips-tricks/tutorial-how-to-create-a-hand-rolled-hem

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1920s Chemise Instructions