1910 #15 Boy’s Suit -- Costume de Garconnet To satisfy the numerous requests, we have drawn a boy’s costume for Bleuette, it could be useful for excursions. One needs six patterns, among them five for the Russian blouse, and one for the breeches. #1 is the sketch of the ensemble finished. Figure 6 is the pattern of the devant [front] of the blouse. After having copied and cut out the pattern, place it on the fabric folded double or on two pieces placed wrong side against wrong side, or right side against right side. Without this precaution, you would have two pieces for the same side, and nothing for the other. An important note which is applied to all our patterns. -- It is necessary to place the patterns on the fabric in the exact position where they are on the gray background of our drawings. The four lines of framework of this gray background represent the straight-threads of the fabric; it is important that the pattern be placed compared to the straight-thread of your fabric, as it is within the lines of the frame. Quite often, my nieces write this to me: “I have copied well the pattern, and this does not fit.” This disappointment is precisely in that the pattern has been placed on the fabric any which way, and done this way, the cut is changed. The dos [back] (fig.5). – It is made from only one piece. You will thus place the pattern #5 on the fabric folded double, while placing its dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. On this side, you will not cut. The fabric opened will give you the back in one piece. Back and front are joined the one to the other by the seams of the shoulder and under the arms. The manche [sleeve] (fig.3). – Is made from only one piece. Place the pattern on the fabric folded double, the dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric. To shape the underside of the armhole, you will remove on half of the sleeve, that which will become then the underside, the fabric contained between the lines A. The poignet [cuff] (fig.7). -- Is cut on the straight-thread. The culotte [breeches] (fig.4). – You need a piece of fabric folded double on the straight-thread. Place the pattern on top while putting its dotted line edge to edge with the fold of the fabric and, to lower the front, you remove the part contained on our drawing between the line which carries these words : ceinture devant [waistband front], and that which carries these words: ceinture derriere [waistband back]. The leg is closed by the seam of the crotch and the two legs of the breeches are joined together by the seam of the front and that of the back.

Hem each leg at the bottom and pass in the hem a small elastic to slide the garter. Hem at the top all around, and you will pass in this hem a tie which will fasten the pants. The ceinture [belt] (fig.2) will be made either out of the same fabric as the costume, or a leather. In the first case, it is a band on the straight-thread having twice the length of figure 2; in the second case, one will be able to find the belt in old gloves; if one is obliged to make seams, one will conceal these by embroideries. This little outfit is trimmed with plaid braid; if one does not have it, one would compensate for it by cutting in shape from the percale plaid or other. Finally, we have given you two patterns of embroidery for braids (fig.5 and 6) in the case where the model would be useful for a small boy. The first of these models is beside the pattern (fig.5). This is a running drawing of mimosas. The stem is made with stem stitch, which consists – I say for the newcomers – of a straight stitch from left to right, then the needle returns on the left to make the following stitch which sets out again while slanting slightly on the right. The departure of the new stitch is always a little below the beginning of the preceding stitch. Attentively look at the model (fig.5), this manner of making is very clear. The leaves are composed of seven straight stitches each: the first serving as stem to the leaf, the six others representing the divisions of the leaf. The mimosas are composed of three stitches: the first very close, the second a little further away, the third the same as the first. Those who know how to make the seed stitch or the French knot can resort to them. This last, especially, will give more relief. The second model (figure 6) shows you also a “running” drawing. One calls like this, in embroidery terms, a drawing which can be repeated indefinitely, and consequently, stopped when it is wanted. They are large branches of daisies. Leaves and flowers are made in straight stitch. The center of the daisy is made like the mimosas of the preceding drawing. These embroideries are equally pretty on light-colored backgrounds and dark backgrounds. If the band to embroider is navy blue – a color very popular for the outfits of little boys – one will embroider with white silk or – what would be very distinguished – with pale blue silk. If the costume is out of white wool, one will embroider in blue or red. It is necessary to use, for this type of work, this flat silk called Algerian silk. The silk to sew or cord would not do as well. Translation copyright Deirdre Gawne 2012. Not for sale. www.dressingbleuette.com