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1
Benedictine University Cosmetic Chemistry Course Topics Date Module Focus Speaker Company
11-Sep
Introduction to Cosmetics - Trends Size of Industry Products
Chemical Classes Raw Materials Used Formulation Types Scott Wenzel Kimberly-Clark
18-Sep
Surfactants - Types of Surfactants Surfactant Chemistry
Formulation of Surfactants Tom Schoenberg
Schoenberg
Consulting Inc
25-Sep
Emulsions - Types of Emulsions Emulsion Theory Formulation of
Emulsions Perry Romanowski Alberto Culver
2-Oct
Formulation Module - What is Formulating How to Formulate
Various Types of Products in the Industry Perry Romanowski Alberto Culver
9-Oct OTC Sunscreen Development and Chemistry Craig Bonda Hallstar
16-Oct
Polymer Science - Polymer Chemistry Use of Polymers in Hair and
Skin Care TBD BASF or ISP
23-Oct Delivery of Actives and Molecules in Cosmetics TBD BASF
30-Oct The Use of Active Ingredients in Personal Care Anna Gripp DSM
6-Nov
Cosmetic Product Manufacturing - How to Take a Formulation from
Lab Scale to Manufacturing Scale What are the Challenges of the
Contract Manufacturing Business Gene Frank Raani Corporation
13-Nov
Claim Substantiation for Cosmetic
and OTC Products for Skin and Hair - Types of Claims Types of
Testing How to Design Studies Barb Dvoracek Kimberly-Clark
2
Who is Scott Wenzel
bullEducational and Work History
ndashMay 1994 - Graduated from UW-LaCrosse with a BS in BiologyChemistry
ndashSept 1994 ndash Tsumura International hires Scott as a Jr Formulation Chemist
ndashDec 1998 ndash Northwest Cosmetic Laboratories hires Scott as RampD Mgr
ndashApril 2002 ndash NuSkin hires Scott as Sr Research Scientist
ndashDec 2004 ndash Kimberly-Clark hires Scott as Sr Research Scientist
ndashAug 2007 ndash Currently Technical Leader for RampD Formulation Team
3
Who is Scott Wenzel
bullSCC Background
ndashMember of SCC since 1994
ndashSept 1997 ndash Treasurer of Twin Cities Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash Founder of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash First Chair of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashAug 2003 ndash Coordinated first annual Intermountain West Chapter SCC Golf Outing
ndashJan 2004 ndash Serve a 2nd term as Chair of the Intermountain Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2006 ndash Chair-Elect of Midwest Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2007 ndash Chair of Midwest Chapter of SCC
4
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullDedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science the
Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific
information through meetings and publications
bullPromotes research in cosmetic science and industry and
improves the qualifications of cosmetic scientists
bullFounded in 1945 it now has over 4000 members
bullThere are now 18 chapters with membership from 35 to
1100 members
bullFor further information visit wwwscconlineorg
5
Midwest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullWas the first chapter formed in 1948
bullToday has almost 400 members
bullChapter holds 7 educational meetingsyear as well as 1-2
social eventsyear in the Chicago area
bullChapter also hosts a vendor supplier day which will occur
in March 2008
bullPublishes a newsletter called SCCoop
bullFor more information visit wwwmidwestsccorg
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
2
Who is Scott Wenzel
bullEducational and Work History
ndashMay 1994 - Graduated from UW-LaCrosse with a BS in BiologyChemistry
ndashSept 1994 ndash Tsumura International hires Scott as a Jr Formulation Chemist
ndashDec 1998 ndash Northwest Cosmetic Laboratories hires Scott as RampD Mgr
ndashApril 2002 ndash NuSkin hires Scott as Sr Research Scientist
ndashDec 2004 ndash Kimberly-Clark hires Scott as Sr Research Scientist
ndashAug 2007 ndash Currently Technical Leader for RampD Formulation Team
3
Who is Scott Wenzel
bullSCC Background
ndashMember of SCC since 1994
ndashSept 1997 ndash Treasurer of Twin Cities Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash Founder of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash First Chair of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashAug 2003 ndash Coordinated first annual Intermountain West Chapter SCC Golf Outing
ndashJan 2004 ndash Serve a 2nd term as Chair of the Intermountain Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2006 ndash Chair-Elect of Midwest Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2007 ndash Chair of Midwest Chapter of SCC
4
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullDedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science the
Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific
information through meetings and publications
bullPromotes research in cosmetic science and industry and
improves the qualifications of cosmetic scientists
bullFounded in 1945 it now has over 4000 members
bullThere are now 18 chapters with membership from 35 to
1100 members
bullFor further information visit wwwscconlineorg
5
Midwest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullWas the first chapter formed in 1948
bullToday has almost 400 members
bullChapter holds 7 educational meetingsyear as well as 1-2
social eventsyear in the Chicago area
bullChapter also hosts a vendor supplier day which will occur
in March 2008
bullPublishes a newsletter called SCCoop
bullFor more information visit wwwmidwestsccorg
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
3
Who is Scott Wenzel
bullSCC Background
ndashMember of SCC since 1994
ndashSept 1997 ndash Treasurer of Twin Cities Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash Founder of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashJan 2003 ndash First Chair of the Intermountain West Chapter of SCC
ndashAug 2003 ndash Coordinated first annual Intermountain West Chapter SCC Golf Outing
ndashJan 2004 ndash Serve a 2nd term as Chair of the Intermountain Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2006 ndash Chair-Elect of Midwest Chapter of SCC
ndashSept 2007 ndash Chair of Midwest Chapter of SCC
4
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullDedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science the
Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific
information through meetings and publications
bullPromotes research in cosmetic science and industry and
improves the qualifications of cosmetic scientists
bullFounded in 1945 it now has over 4000 members
bullThere are now 18 chapters with membership from 35 to
1100 members
bullFor further information visit wwwscconlineorg
5
Midwest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullWas the first chapter formed in 1948
bullToday has almost 400 members
bullChapter holds 7 educational meetingsyear as well as 1-2
social eventsyear in the Chicago area
bullChapter also hosts a vendor supplier day which will occur
in March 2008
bullPublishes a newsletter called SCCoop
bullFor more information visit wwwmidwestsccorg
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
4
Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullDedicated to the advancement of cosmetic science the
Society strives to increase and disseminate scientific
information through meetings and publications
bullPromotes research in cosmetic science and industry and
improves the qualifications of cosmetic scientists
bullFounded in 1945 it now has over 4000 members
bullThere are now 18 chapters with membership from 35 to
1100 members
bullFor further information visit wwwscconlineorg
5
Midwest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullWas the first chapter formed in 1948
bullToday has almost 400 members
bullChapter holds 7 educational meetingsyear as well as 1-2
social eventsyear in the Chicago area
bullChapter also hosts a vendor supplier day which will occur
in March 2008
bullPublishes a newsletter called SCCoop
bullFor more information visit wwwmidwestsccorg
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
5
Midwest Chapter of Society of Cosmetic Chemists
bullWas the first chapter formed in 1948
bullToday has almost 400 members
bullChapter holds 7 educational meetingsyear as well as 1-2
social eventsyear in the Chicago area
bullChapter also hosts a vendor supplier day which will occur
in March 2008
bullPublishes a newsletter called SCCoop
bullFor more information visit wwwmidwestsccorg
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
6
Cosmetic Overview
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
7
Overview of Presentation
bull How large is the cosmetic industry
bull What are the trends
bull What types of products are in the market
bull What ingredients are used
bull What types of formulations are utilized
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
8
Cosmetic Industry
bull Size and Growth
ndash Globally $253 Billion Revenue in 2005 (Euromonitor)
ndash 37 Growth through 2010 $300 Billion
bull Highly Fragmented
ndash Thousands of finished good companies from garage scale to multi-billion dollar corporations
ndash Thousands of raw material suppliers
ndash Low barriers to entry (not capital intensive)
ndash Trend increasing with direct to consumer channels
bull Marketing Intensive
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
9
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Worldwide Category Size
CAGR to 2011
projected at 30
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
10
Baby Care
Bath and Show er Products
Deodorants
Hair Care
Color Cosmetics
Mens Grooming Products
Oral Hygiene
Fragrances
Skin Care
Depilatories
Sun Care
17 78
45
186
128
78
94
109
23
11 24
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries Breakdown by Sub-Category
Hair Care and Skin Care are biggest subcategories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
11
2006
World
Cosmetics and toiletries
Supermarketshypermarkets 255
Independent food stores 31
Convenience stores 24
Pharmaciesdrugstores 18
Discounters 76
Department stores 126
Specialists 127
Direct sales 129
Outdoor markets 14
Others 36
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Channel
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
12
2001 2006
Cosmetics and
World 19637560 26990910
Asia Pacific 4892670 6497130
Australasia 238850 413810
Eastern Europe 923350 1930190
Latin America 2299130 3634290
Africa and Middle East 1424480 1182790
North America 4876200 5590350
Western Europe 4982870 7742350
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndash Sales by Region
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
13
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Demographics
-gtFalling birth rates
-gtAging Populations
-gtAge Compression
-gtWellness
Economic
-gt Non-Essentials
-gt Polarization of Wealth
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
14
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Political Activity
-gt Globalization
-gt Regulation
Social Trends
-gtUrbanization
-gt Changing Lifestyles
-gt Nutrition
-gt Celebrity Culture
-gt EnvironmentalEthical
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
15
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashKey Trends and Influences
Company Activity
-gt Consolidation
-gt Education
-gt Mega-Branding
-gt Cross-Industry Innovation
Technology
-gtEfficacy multi-functionality
-gt New Media
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
16
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBaby Care
Gerberrsquos Products
With ldquoSkin Nutrientsrdquo
Baby Spa with
Oatmeal
Earthrsquos Best
Baby Body Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
17
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashBath and Shower
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Vitamins Moisturizers
Minerals
Antibacterial
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
18
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDeodorants
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
Body Sprays Sticks and Roll-On
Unisex Products Split to Gender
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
19
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashHair Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
20
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashColor Cosmetics
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
21
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSkin Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
22
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashDepilatories
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
23
Overview of Cosmetics and Toiletries ndashSun Care
copyCopyright and database Euromonitor International 2007
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
24
Cosmetic Industry Jobs
bullTypes of Companies
ndashContract Manufacturers
ndashMulti-level Companies
ndashDirect Sales Companies
ndashRaw Material Vendors
ndashFragrance Suppliers
ndashDistributors
bullScience Related Jobs in these Companies
ndashFormulation Chemist
ndashAnalytical Chemist
ndashQuality Control Specialist
ndashMicrobiologist and Life Scientists
ndashPerfumers
ndashTechnical Sales
ndashScience Related Intellectual Property and Law
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
25
Classes of Formulations and Raw Material Overview
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
26
Overview
bull What is a cosmetic and drug
bull What is formulating
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
27
What is a Cosmetic
bull The Food Drug and Cosmetic Act (FDampC Act) defines cosmetics by their intended use as articles intended to be rubbed poured sprinkled or sprayed on introduced into or otherwise applied to the human bodyfor cleansing beautifying promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance [FDampC Act sec 201(i)]
bull Said another wayhellip
bull A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body including the mucous membranes of the oral cavity and the teeth with a view to altering the odours of the body or changing its appearance or cleansing it or maintaining it in good condition or perfuming it or protecting it
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
28
Are All Cosmetics Created Equally
bull The FDampC Act defines drugs by their intended use as (A) articles intended for use in the diagnosis
cure mitigation treatment or prevention of diseaseand (B)
articles (other than food) intended to affect the structure or any function of the body of man
or other animals
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
29
Formulation Defined
bull The act process or result of formulating or reducing to a formula Websters Revised Unabridged Dictionary (1913)
bull AKA ldquoAdvanced Bakingrdquo or ldquoBucket Chemistryrdquo
+ +
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
30
Formulation Defined
bull Formulating is a ComplexhellipIterativehellipCombination of Art and Science
Performance
Aesthetics
Stability
Preservative
Efficacy
Scale Up
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
31
What Ingredients Do We Choose
2006 International Cosmetic Ingredient
Dictionary and Handbook features
bull13000 INCI names recognized in the United
States the European Union (EU) and many
other countries as the labeling names that
MUST be used on cosmetic and personal care
product packages These INCI names are cross-
referenced to 59000 trade names associated
with more than 3000 suppliers from 95
countries
bull15 Sections containing all the critical
information needed to identify INCI labelling
names CAS and EINECS registry numbers
Empirical formulas CIR Index OTC Index EU
Index sources to find additional information
about specific ingredients and much more
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
32
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Surfactants
ndash Cleansing agents
ndash Emulsifiers
bull Skin Conditioning Agents
bull Humectants
bull Emollients
bull Occlusive AgentsFilm Formers
bull Rheology Modifiers (Viscosity Increasing Agents)
ndash Aqueous
ndash Nonaqueous
bull Preservatives
bull Chelating Agents
bull Active Ingredients
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
33
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Cleansing agents
bull Used for skinhair cleansing purposes In this function surfactants wet body surfaces emulsify or solubilize oils and suspend soil
bull It is characteristic and expected by most consumers that these should contribute foamlather to cleansing products
bull Examples
ndash Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)
ndash Ammonium Laureth Sulfate (ALES)
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
34
Surfactants
What is a surfactant
bull A surface active agent that reduces the surface or interfacial tension by its tendency to adsorb at the surface or interface
bull How a surfactant functions in a system depends on its HLB (hydrophobic-lipophyllic balance
bull Surfactants contain a polar and a non-polar region within the same molecule and generally can be characterized via the ldquoHead amp Tailrdquo approach The elongated hydrophobic end is the tail while the hydrophilic end is the head
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
35
Micelle Formation
(1) At very low concentrations surfactants aggregate at the surface
(2) As the concentration is increased the surfactants aggregate in the solution and form micelles reducing surface tension
Concentration
The concentration of surfactant at which micelles first appear is called the critical micelle concentration (CMC)
Surface
Tension
(Nm)
Increasing surfactant concentration does
not result in in a further decrease of
surface tension
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
36
Surfactants
Surfactants ndash Emulsifying Agents
bull Are employed in cosmetics to prepare emulsions
bull Their efficacy depends on their ability to
ndash Reduce surface tension
ndash Form complex films on the surface of emulsified droplets
ndash Create a repulsive barrier on emulsified droplets to prevent their coalescence
bull Examples
ndash Ceteareth-20
ndash PPG-2 Isoceteth-20 Acetate
ndash Glyceryl Stearate SE
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
37
General Classification of Emulsifiers
Amphotheric
Emulsifier
Non-ionic Ionic
Anionic Cationic GMS-SE
TEA-Stearate
Sodium
Cetearyl
Sulfate
Cetylpyridinium
Chloride
Distearyldimonium
Chloride
Lecithin
(Phospholipids)
bullCTFA website lists 1893 materials of emulsifiers
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
38
Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Fatty-alcohol ethoxylates dominate but also includes PEG Glyceryl Sucrose and Polyglyceryl esters ether and in many instances silicone based compounds
ndash Typical alkyl chain for alcohol ethoxylates distributed between C12-18
bull Broad compatibility
bull Inexpensive
bull Generally organized by hydrophilichydrophobic character (HLB)
bull Best stability amp effectiveness is achieved through combinations of emulsifiers
ndash EG Arlacel 165 is a commercial blend of 50 Glyceryl Stearate (HLB 12) and 50 PEG-100 Stearate (HLB 188) allow for a broad range or materials to be emulsified
ndash Achieves smallest droplet size highest stability lowest amount of surfactant
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
39
Typical Non-Ionic Emulsifiers
bull Glyceryl Stearate
bull PEG-100 Stearate
bull Stearyl Alcohol
bull Cetyl Alcohol
bull Laureth-23
bull Steareth Alcohol
bull CetylPEGPPG 10 Dimethicone
bull Stearic Acid
bull Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate
bull PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
bull Many are more effective as rheology modifiers
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
40
Anionic
bull Cetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
bull Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
bull C10-C30 AlkylAcrylate Crosspolymer (Pemulen TR-2)
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
41
Cationic
bull Consumer Products Using Cationic Emulsifiers
Dry powdery smooth skin feel is able to mask high lipophilic
content
Distearyldimonium chloride
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
42
Oil and Water Donrsquot Mixhellip
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
43
Unless you are a formulator
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
44
bull Oil and water alone cannot form an emulsion
bull The phases will separate once energy is removed from the system (kinetically unstable)
bull Something needs to be added to stabilize the emulsionhellip
Normal OilWater Interaction
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
45
Love
Oil + Water 4 Ever
Well maybe a littlehellip
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
46
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
bull Surfactant = Surface Active Agent
bull A molecule with a polar ldquoheadrdquo group and a non-polar ldquotailrdquo
bull For emulsions these are usually nonionic surfactants although there are others
Polar Non-polar
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
47
bull Surfactants can have more non-polar character than polar character and vice-versa These represent different HLB values
bull Specific oils need specific surfactant polarnon-polar character to be effectively emulsified
Less polar
(low HLB)
More Polar
(High HLB)
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
48
Examples of matching HLB values to application needs
bull mixing unlike oils together
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 1 to 3
bull making water-in-oil emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 4 to 6
bull wetting powders into oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 9
bull making self emulsifying oils
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 7 to 10
bull making oil-in-water emulsions
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 8 to16
bull making detergent solutions
bull ndashuse surfactants with HLBrsquos of 13 to 15
bull for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water
bull ndashuse surfactant blends with HLBrsquos of 13 to 18
The HLB System A Time Saving Guide To Surfactant Selection Uniqema
Presentation to the Midwest Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists
09 March 2004
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
49
bull When added to oil and water a surfactant will arrange itself such that itrsquos non-polar tail is within the oil and its polar heads are exposed to the water
bull Spherical arrangement of surfactant is known as a micelle
Polar heads
Oil Droplet
Non-polar tails
Surfactants - Emulsifiers
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
50
Emulsion
bull An emulsion is a suspension of two immiscible liquids in which one phase is dispersed as small globules within the other
bull Continuous phase and dispersed phase
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
51
Skin Moisturization
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
52
Moisturizers Are Everywhere
Lotions and Creams Body Washes Hand Sanitizers
Sunscreens Lip Balms
Hand Soaps
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
53
Too
Wet
Too
Dry
Just
Right
bull Skin maceration
bull Loss of barrier function
bull Reduced rate of barrier repair
bull Corneocyte swelling
bull Wrinkling
bull Skin flaking
bull Loss of skin barrier
bull Loss of skin elasticity
bull Skin cracksfissures
bull Painful andor pruritic skin
bull Skin roughness
The importance of skin moisture
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
54
Factors that effect skin moisture
bull Skinrsquos ability to control water diffusion (Skin Barrier Function)
bull Skinrsquos ability to retain water (Natural Moisturizing Factors)
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
55
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing barrier function
bull This is generally done with skin conditioning agents
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
56
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollient
bull Help maintain the soft smooth and pliable appearance of skin
bull They function by their ability to remain on the skin surface or in stratum corneum
bull Act as lubricants to reduce flaking and to improve the skinrsquos appearance
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
57
Skin Conditioning Agents
Emollients can be
bull Hydrocarbons ndash Mineral Oil
bull Natural Oils ndash Jojoba Oil
bull Esters ndash Isopropyl Palmitate Myristyl Myristate
bull Triglycerides ndash CaprylicCapric Triglyceride
bull Silicones ndash Cyclomethicone
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
58
Skin Conditioning Agents
Occlusive
bull Retard the evaporation of water from the skin surface and therefore increase the water content of the skin
bull Occlusive formulations are sometimes used to enhance delivery of active ingredients into the skin ie Hydrocortisone Creams
bull Examples
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Beeswax
ndash Paraffin Wax
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Shea Butter
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
59
= Lipids
= Corneocyte (cell remnant)
The stratum corneum is composed of corneocytes (bricks)
embedded within a lipid matrix (mortar)
Skin Barrier The Brick and Mortar Model
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
60
Normal Skin w Normal Barrier
H2O H2O
Inflammation
H2O
H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
Vs
Skin lipids help maintain normal barrier
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
61
Lipids Repair Barrier Damage
Irritant H2O
H2O
Dry Skin w Damaged Barrier
H2O H2O
H2O
Apply Lipids
Barrier Function Repair
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
62
Formulation Considerations
bull Most are water insoluble so must be delivered either in the oil phase of an emulsion system or in an anhydrous system
bull Too much of a barrier material can result in a formulation that feels greasy waxy or heavy
bull Fatty materials can go rancid over time preservatives should be used to delay or prevent this
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
63
How Do Moisturizers Work
bull Enhancing water absorption and retention
bull This is generally done with humectants
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
64
Skin Conditioning Agents
Humectant
bull Includes primarily hygroscopic agents intended to increase the water content (conductance) of the top layers of skin
bull Examples Glycerin Propylene Glycol
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
65
Stratum corneum (dried and cracked)
Relief
Humectants in Formulations
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
66
Raw Materials that Enhance Moisture Retention
bull Glycerin
bull Alpha-hydroxy acids
bull Urea
bull Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid (PCA)
bull Glycols (propylene butylene)
bull Amino acids
Glycerin is by far the most commonly seen
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
67
Formulation Considerations
bull Most humectants are water-soluble and can easily be incorporated in water-based formulations Use in anhydrous formulations is limited
bull Many formulations (especially washes soaps or hand sanitizers) that state ldquowith moisturizersrdquo on the label contain glycerin or another humectant
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
68
Skin Benefits Attributable to Moisturizers
bull Decrease dry flaky appearance
bull Reduce the incidence of fine lines and fissures
bull Increase skin elasticity and suppleness
bull Provide relief from itching or pain
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
69 Shai A et al Eds Handbook of Cosmetic Skin Care (2001)
Moisturizers Result in More Elasticity
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
70
Moisturizing Formulas on the Market
bull Water Glycerin Stearyl Alcohol Mineral Oil Glyceryl Stearate Myristyl Myristate PEG 100 Stearate C12 - 15 Alkyl Benzoate Dimethicone Cetyl Alcohol Stearic Acid Phenoxyethanol Fragrance Carbomer Methylparaben Potassium Hydroxide Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Butylparaben Xanthan gum Microcrystalline Wax BHT Butylene Glycol Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf Extract) Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract Retinyl Palmitate Tocopheryl acetate
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
71
Moisturizing Formulations
bull Active Ingredients Dimethicone
bull Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Distearyldimonium Chloride Petrolatum Isopropyl Palmitate Cetyl Alcohol Oat Flour (Avena Sativa) Benzyl Alcohol Sodium Chloride
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
72
Additional Ingredients
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
73
Film Formers
bull Materials which upon drying produce a continuous film on skin hair or nails
bull Uniform films can enhance the efficacy of an ldquoactiverdquo such as a sunscreen skin protectant or moisturizer
bull Can be used to improve the wash off or removal of an ldquoactiverdquo ingredient from the skin surface
bull Examples
ndash PVP
ndash PVA
ndash Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Copolymer
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
74
Viscosity Increasing Agents
Aqueous
bull Are used to thicken the aqueous portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is related to the water solubility or hydrophilic nature
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Salts ndash Sodium Chloride Ammonium Chloride
ndash Cellulose Type ndash HEC HPMC CMC
ndash Gums ndash Guar Xanthan Acacia
ndash Modified Starch ndash Potato Tapioca
ndash Polymers - Pemulen TR-1 Carbomer
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
75
Polysaccharide Thickening Mechanism
bull Formation of Colloidal Network
ndash High yield value
ndash Excellent pH and electrolyte tolerance
bull Effective across a broad pH range
bull Excellent temperature and electrolyte stability
bull Good solubility in hot and cold water
bull Rheology may be too stiff for some applications
bull Synergy with other rheology modifiers (eg clays)
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
76
Clays
bull Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (eg VEEGUMcopy)
bull Smectite clay platelets
ndash Hydrates in water
ndash Forms necessary colloidal structure ldquohouse of cardsrdquo
bull Positively charged edges of platelets interact with negatively charged faces to build structure
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
77
Clay Platelets
bull Negatively charged platelet faces and positively charged edges
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
78
Forms Structure
bull When hydrated clay assembles a 3D structure
bull Traps solids oils and gasses
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
79
Viscosity Increasing Agents-Anhydrous
Nonaqueous
bull Used to thicken the lipid portions of cosmetic products
bull Ability to thicken is the result of their water insolubility and compatability with lipids
bull Examples of aqueous thickeners
ndash Waxes ndash Beeswax Microcrystalline Wax
ndash Alcohols ndash Cetyl Stearyl
ndash Butters ndash Shea Butter
ndash Hydrogenated Oils
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
80
Preservatives
bull Ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect products from spoilage
bull Use is required to prevent rancidity appearanceodor changes to the product caused by microorganisms
bull Protects activityfunctionality of the product
bull Protects from inadvertent contamination by consumer during use or production
bull The functionality of many classes is determined by the pH conditions of manufacturing and order of addition To prevent microbial growth in a product
bull Examples
ndash DMDM Hydantoin
ndash Parabens
ndash Phenoxyethanol
ndash Quaterniary Amines
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
81
Types of preservation
bull Radiation
bull Heat or cold
bull Packaging
bull Chemical and Natural Preservatives
ndash Water activity reducers
ndash Antioxidants
ndash Chelators
ndash pH adjusters
ndash Antimicrobials
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
82
Brief History of Preservatives
bull 3000BC Salt honey and oils used to preserve mummies in Egypt
bull BC Salt used to preserve meats around the world
bull 1810 Napoleon rewards Nicolas Appert for discovering that heating and sealing jars preserves food longer
bull 1875 Benzoic acidrsquos preservative properties are discovered Gum benzoin had been discovered in 1556 by Nostradamus
bull 1876 Refrigerators invented ndash cold known to help preserve
bull 1888 Louis Pasteur discovers micro-organisms and finds that heat can kill them ndash Pasteurization
bull 1924 Parabens introduced into cosmetics for preservation
bull 1939 Sorbic acids preservative properties are discovered
bull 1945 After WWII new chemistries develop new needs for preservatives Synthetic preservatives flourish
bull 1970s Regulations are tightened on cosmetics around the world affecting preservative choices
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
83
Microbial Paradise
bull Cosmetics contain food numerous food sources for microbes water proteins trace metals carbon amino acids
bull pH of products can enhance microbial growth
ndash Most bacteria flourish in pHs between 65-75 but actual range of growth is 45-90
ndash Yeasts abound around 40-65 but can be seen as low as 15 and up to 96
ndash Molds enjoy a pH between 45 and 68 but can found between 12 (A niger) and 11
bull High water activity is preferred
ndash Most bacteria need activity above 090 S aureus can go to 084
ndash Most yeasts prefer above 087 osmophilic yeasts can survive down to 060
ndash Most molds are prefer water activity above 060
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
84
Things to Consider
bull What are we concerned with as formulators
ndash Gram negative bacteria
ndash Gram positive bacteria
ndash Yeastmold
bull Best preservative system is one that is broad a broad spectrum blend
ndash Paragon MEPB (McIntyre) is a blend of phenoxyethanol and parabens
ndash Optiphenreg Plus (ISP) is a blend of phenoxyethanol caprylyl glycol and sorbic acid
bull Use preservative boosting techniques
ndash Chelating agents such as EDTA
ndash pH modification with acidsbases
ndash Water activity reducers (glycols
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
85
CTFArsquos 28-Day Micro Challenge
bull Inoculum consists of Escherichia coli (G-) Enterobacter cloacae (G-) Pseudomonas aeruginosa (G-) Burkholderia cepacia (G-) Staphylococcus aureus (G+) Candida albicans (Y) and Aspergillus niger (M)
bull All are added to formula to be tested for a final concentration between 1 x 105 to 1 x 106 CFUmL
bull Colonies are counted at 1 7 14 21 and 28 days
bull The preservative is effective if there is
ndash Bacteria at least a 999 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of test period and
ndash Yeast and Mold at least a 90 reduction within 7 days following each challenge and no increase for the duration of the test period
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
86
Chelating Agents (Sequestrants)
bull Can complex with and inactivate metallic ions to prevent their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of cosmetic products
bull At times it is important to complex calcium or magnesium ions which are incompatible with a variety of cosmetic ingredients
bull Chelation of ions such as iron or copper helps retard oxidative deterioration of finished products
bull Chelating agents are used to help boost preservative efficacy in cosmetic formulations
bull Examples
ndash Tetrasodium EDTA
ndash Disodium EDTA
ndash Gluconic Acid
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
87
Active Ingredients
bull Exact definition is dependent on desired claims and the associated regulatory status of the claim or ingredient used
bull Incorporated to alter the structure and function of the skin
bull Within cosmetics over-the-counter products (rash creams sunscreens) are regulated by the FDA under an appropriate monograph
bull Are all products which change the structure or function of skin regulated by the FDA No
bull Is there consistent agreement as to what it means to change the function amp structure of skin No
bull Claim language is the fine line to distinguish cosmetic from a drug
ndash Cosmetics smoothes soothes moisturizes plumps etc
ndash Drug cures treats prevents etc
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
88
Skin Protectants
bull OTC (over the counter) active drug ingredients that temporarily protect injured or exposed skin or mucous membrane surfaces from harmful stimuli and may help provide relief to such surfaces
bull Examples
ndash Allantoin
ndash Dimethicone
ndash Petrolatum
ndash Zinc Oxide
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
89
Other Examples of Active Ingredients
bull OTC Regulated Cosmetics ndash Sunscreens
ndash Rash Creams
ndash Anti-Puritic (Itch
ndash Anti-Dandruff
ndash Anti-Perspirants
ndash External Analgesics (Pain Reduction)
ndash Hand Sanitizers
bull Non-Regulated Products with ldquoActivesrdquo ndash Anti-wrinkle
ndash Anti-cellulite
ndash Stretch marks
ndash Skin Lighteners (US)
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
90
Fragrance Colorants Aesthetic Enhancers and Label Ingredients
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
91
Overview
bull Why are they used in formulations
bull Classesfunctions of raw materials
ndash Definitions
ndash Examples of some raw materials in each class
bull Product types in the industry
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
92
Why are they used in formulations
bull Additives can be
ndash Functional
bull Deliver an end benefit
bull If used in low quantities functional ingredients enhance appeal
ndash Enhance appeal
bull Enhance the five senses of the consumer (sight smell touch taste hearing)
bull Create a story and also be functional
ndash Powders create a silky feel (appeal) and diffuse light to disguise wrinkles (functional)
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
93
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Fragrance
ndash Fragrance blends
ndash Essential Oils
ndash Extracts or Waters
bull Flavor
bull Colorants
ndash Dyes
ndash Pigments
ndash Natural colorants
bull Marketing Ingredients
ndash Extracts
ndash Moisturizers
ndash Vitamins
ndash Antioxidants
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
94
General Classes of Raw Materials
bull Aesthetic Enhancers
ndash Visual
bull Beads
bull Glitter
bull Swirls
bull Opacifiers or pealizing agents
ndash Sensory
bull Warming
bull Cooling
bull Tactile
ndash Powdery finish
bull Exfolliants
ndash Natural
ndash Synthetic
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
95
Aroma Compounds
bull Chemicals that are somewhat volatile so they can be transported to the upper part of the nose in a high enough concentration to be detected by the olfactory receptors
bull Types of aroma compounds
ndash Fragrance
bull A mixture of fragrant essential oils aroma compounds solvents and fixatives
bull Can be extremely complex and contain a top note (perceive immediately upon application) middle note (heart of the fragrance) and base note (perceived after dry down)
ndash Essential Oils
bull Hydrophobic portion of a steam distillate
bull Large interest due to the popularity of aromatherapy
bull Examples are Lavender Oil Peppermint Oil
ndash Hydrosols
bull Aqueous phase of a steam distillate and often referred to as essential water floral water or herbal distillate
bull Example are Rose Water Orange Water
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
96
Flavorant
bull A substance added to impart a pleasant taste to the final formulations
bull Product Examples
ndash Toothpaste
ndash Mouthwash
ndash Lip Balm
ndash Adult novelty products
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
97
Colorants
bull Materials which impart a visual color to a finished product
bull Types of colorants
ndash Dyes
bull Generally soluble and appear to be colored because they absorb some wavelengths of light preferentially
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 and DampC Orange No 4
ndash Pigments
bull Generally insoluble and changes the color of light it reflects as a result of selective color absorption of wavelengths of light
bull Examples are FDampC Yellow No 5 Aluminum Lake and DampC Orange No 4 Aluminum lake
ndash Natural
bull Examples are Walnut Extract and Beet Extract
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
98
Marketing Ingredients
bull Materials which do not add to the end benefit of the product but help to create the product story and reason to believe
bull Generally these are added in very small amounts
bull Examples
ndash Extracts
bull Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Extract
ndash Moisturizers
bull Jojoba oil Aloe
ndash Vitamins
bull Vitamin A Vitamin E Vitamin C
ndash Antioxidants
bull Green Tea Extract Vitamin C
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
99
Aesthetic Enhancers - Visual
bull Materials and or effects that are added to formulations to entice the consumer buy by creating a ldquowowrdquo for the eyes
bull Examples
ndash Beads
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and contain known consumer friendly ingredients (vitamins oils)
ndash Glitter or iridescent pigments
bull Generally suspended within the formulation and will deposit onto the skin or hair to leave a shine
ndash Swirls
bull Can be layers of two separate products or an internal swirl (alternate benefits)
ndash Opacifiers or pearlizing agents
bull Suspended fatty acids powders or other to create a white or luminescent appearance to the product
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
100
Aesthetic Enhancers - Sensory
bull Materials added to formulations to stimulate the senses or elicit a response from touch
bull Examples
ndash Warming Agents
bull Generally warm due to heat of hydration
ndash Examples would be glycols magnesium chloride calcium chloride
ndash Cooling Agents
bull Due to volatile evaporation or from a neurosensory response
ndash Examples would be ethanol menthol camphor
ndash Tactile Agents
bull Examples would be powders or silicones to elicit a smooth powdery finish on the skin
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
101
Exfoliants
bull Materials added to formulations aimed at improving skins appearance by removing dead skin cells from the surface of the skin
bull Examples
ndash Physical
bull Synthetic ndash Polyethylene beads
bull Natural ndash Walnut shells
ndash Rice bran
bull Chemical ndash Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHArsquos) such as Glycolic Acid Lactic Acid Citric Acid
ndash Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHArsquos) such as Salicylic Acid
ndash Polyhydroxy Acids (PHArsquos) such as Gluconolactone Lactobionic Acid
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
102
Industry Examples
Warming Facial
Cleanser (Biore)
Suspended Antibacterial
Beads (BampBW)
Enriched with Aloe
amp Vitamin E (JampJ)
Suspended Exfoliant
Apricot Shells (St Ives)
Lavender
Aromatherapy Pigments for color transfer
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
103
Formulation Systems
bull Solutions
bull Oil Based SolutionsAnhydrous
bull Water Based Surfactant Solutions
bull Emulsions
bull Suspensions
bull Powders
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
104
Solutions
bull Homogeneous mixture of two or more substances
bull Examples
ndash Astringents (Hydro-alcoholic)
ndash Anti-septicmicrobial Hand Gels
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
105
Anhydrous Formulations
bull Systems which do not contain water
bull Contains mostly hydrophobiclipophilic ingredients
ndash Examples Ointments Lip balmsticks Vaseline
bull Advantages Lipophilic material has direct contact with the skin best film formation and film is not water dispersible (water resistantproof) ease of preservation
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
106
Foaming surfactant systems
bull Dispersion of hydrophilic surfactants in water (Micellular Surfactant Solutions)
bull Examples
ndash Shampoos
ndash Baby Washes and Bath
ndash Liquid Hand Soaps
ndash Shower Gels
ndash Wet Wipe Solutions
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
107
Examples of Cleansing Products
Body Wash
Baby Wash
Shower Gel
Bubble Bath
Bubble Bath
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
108
Emulsions
bull An emulsion is a two phase system consisting of two completely immiscible liquids one of which is dispersed in the other
bull Many types of Emulsions
ndash Oil-in-Water (OW)
ndash Water-in-Oil (WO)
ndash Multiple emulsions (OWO WOW)
bull The majority of Skin Care Products are emulsions
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
109
Oil-in-Water Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a oil phase dispersed as fine droplets in aqueous external phase (OW)
bull Advantages Typically have better Aesthetics easier to formulate greater choice of emulsifiers amp lower cost
bull Disadvantage Typically does not provide substantivity water proofing and film formation
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
110
Oil in Water Emulsion
bull The surfactant maintains the small droplet size of the oil keeps the droplets from aggregating (steric hinderance) and the surfactantoil complex is soluble in the water
bull This is known as an oil in water emulsion (OW)
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
111
Example Products
bull StriVectin-SD Wrinkle and Stretch Mark Cream ($135)
Water (Aqua) C12-15 Benzoate Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil (Sesame) CaprylicCapricTriglyceride Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet Almond) Cetearyl Olivate Sorbitan Olivate Striadril Complex (see product details for ingredients list) Glycerin Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate PPG 12SMDI Copolymer Stearic Acid Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter (Cocoa) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopheryl Acetate Mangifera Indica (Mango) Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint) Methylparaben Xanthan Gum Triethanolamine Butylparaben Ethylparaben Disodium EDTA Propylparaben Retinyl Palmitate Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Active Ingredients 4 Octyl Salicylate 2 Avobenzone 1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid 1 Octocrylene Inactive Ingredients Water Glycerin Dimethicone Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) Isopropyl Isostearate Polyacrylamide Triethanolamine Titanium Dioxide C13-14 Isoparaffin Cetearyl Glucoside PTFE Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Stearyl Alcohol Behenyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Sucrose Polycottonseedate Benzyl Alcohol Dimethiconol Carbomer Methylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben PEG 100 Stearate Disodium EDTA Laureth-7 Stearic Acid
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
112
Example Products
bull Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Moisture Cream Fragrance Free
Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Ethylparaben Sodium Citrate Stearyl Alcohol Propylparaben Methylparaben Sodium Hydroxide Tetrasodium EDTA Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Butylparaben Butylene Glycol Hydrolyzed Milk Protein PEG 25 Soy Sterol Benzaldehyde Hydrolyzed Oats Hydroylzed Soy Protein
Isobutylparaben Phenoxyethanol Ethyl Alcohol
bull Aveeno Foot Cream Intense Relief Water Glycerin Petrolatum Mineral Oil Cetyl Alcohol
Dimethicone Avena Sativa (oat) Kernel Flour Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Extract Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil Salicylic Acid Menthyl Lactate PEG 25 Soy Sterol Carbomer Ceteareth 6 Stearyl Alcohol Tetrasodium EDTA Methylparaben Ethylparaben Butylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben C12-16 Alkyl Hydroxyethyl Ethylcellulose Sodium Citrate Benzalkonium Chloride Citric Acid Sodium Hydroxide
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
113
Water-in Oil Emulsions
bull Emulsions with a water or hydrophilic ingredients dispersed as fine particles in oil based external phase (WO)
bull Advantages Oil phase has direct contact with the skin better film formation and film is less water dispersible and continuous (water resistant and provides best ldquoprotectionrdquo)
bull Disadvantage Poor aesthetics and more costly
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
114
bull The inverse is also possible with the oil phase being the continuous phase and the water phase being the internal phase
bull This is known as a water in oil emulsion (WO)
Water-in-Oil Emulsion
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
115
WO Emulsions- Product Examples
Active Ingredients Ointment contains Dimethicone 1 (diaper rash
cream) Zinc Oxide 10 (diaper rash cream)
Inactive Ingredients Aloe Barbadensis Extract Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Oil Cod Liver Oil (contains vitamin a amp vitamin d)
Fragrance Glyceryl Oleate Light Mineral Oil Ozokerite Paraffin
Propylene Glycol Sorbitol Synthetic Beeswax Water
Active Ingredients Zinc Oxide (10)
Inactive Ingredients Water Mineral Oil Propylene Glycol
Dioctanoate Methyl Glucose Dioleate Titanium Dioxide PEG 45
Docecyl Glycol Copolymer Glycerin Ceresin Ethyl Linoleate Shea
Butter PEG 8 Panthenol Potassium Sorbate Fragrance
Magnesium Sulfate Methylparaben Caprylyl Glycol
Propylparaben Sodium Polyacrylate
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
116
Water-in-Oil Product Example
Philosophy hope in a tube eye and lip firming cream
bull Water (aqua) Squalane Mineral Oil Glycerin Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate Petrolatum Butylene Glycol Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Ceresin Polyethylene Microcrystalline Wax Magnesium Sulfate PhytosterylOctyldodecylLauroyl Glutamate Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline Tocopheryl Acetate Polysorbate 80 Bisabolol Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate Iron Oxide (CI 77492 CI 77491 and CI77499) Methylparaben Diazolidinyl Urea Ethylparaben Tetrasodium EDTA
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
117
Multiple Emulsions
bull Emulsions formed when a WO emulsion is emulsified in water or when an OW emulsion is emusified in oil
bull Advantages Good aesthetics and can provide protection of actives within the emulsion
bull Disadvantage Can be difficult to stabilize
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
118
Emulsifying emulsions
bull With the addition of certain surfactants an oil in water emulsion can be emulsified within an external oil phase
bull This is known as an oil in water in oil (OWO) emulsion
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
119
bull With the addition of certain surfactants a water in oil emulsion can be emulsified within an external water phase
bull This is known as a water in oil in water (WOW) emulsion
Emulsifying Emulsions
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
120
Suspensions
bull A dispersion of solid particles in a liquid medium
bull Examples
ndash Anti-acids
ndash Calamine Lotion (ZnOFeO in Water)
ndash Antiperspirants (Al salts in Silicone)
ndash Lipsticks (Pigments in Castor Oil and Waxes)
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
121
Powders
bull Dry solids composed of numerous fine particles
bull Generally used to absorb moisture and or deliver active ingredients to the skin
bull Examples
ndash Baby Powder
ndash Powder Make-ups
ndash Pressed Powders
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
122
Conclusions
bull Cosmetic industry is extremely large and continues to grow yearly
bull Multiple trends shape the industry and affect consumer buying intent
bull Multiple product types exist and changes occur due to consumer preference and technology shifts
bull Vast number of ingredients in the industry each with unique attributes and functionality
bull Numerous formulations are used as delivery vehicles in the industry
123
QUESTIONS
123
QUESTIONS