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essional chefN I N T H E D I T I O N
The Culinary Institute of America
Cure XL'UNARY\INSTITUTEAMERICAJTHE WORLD'S PREMIERC U L I N A RY C O L L E G E
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This book is printed on acid-free paper. @
Copyright 2011 by The Culinary Institute of America. All rights reserved
THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA
Pres iden t Dr. Tim Ryan 11
Vice-President , Dean of Cul inary Educat ion Mark Erickson '77
Senior Director, Educat ional Enterpr ises Susan Cussen
Direc to r o f Pub l i sh ing Nathalie Fischer
Edi to r i a l P ro jec t Manager s Lisa Lahey '00, Margaret Wheeler '00
Edi to r i a l Ass i s t an t s Shelly Malgee '08, Erin Jeanne McDowell 08
Pub lished by John Wi ley
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Master Recipe List viii
Acknowledgments xvi
Introduction xviii .
PA R T O N E
essionalINTRODUCTION TO THE/PROFESSION 3
MENUS AND RECIPES IB
THE BASICS OF NUTRITION AND FOOD SCIENCE 23
FOOD AND KITCHEN SAFETY 31
PA R T T W O
tools and ingredients in theprofessional kitchen
chapter 5 EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION 43
Chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATION 69
chapter 7 FISH AND SHELLFISH IDENTIFICATION 99
chapter 8 FRUIT, VEGETABLE, AND FRESH HERB IDENTIFICATION 12 7
Chapter 9 DAIRY AND EGG PURCHASING AND IDENTIFICATION 181
chapter 10 DRY GOODS IDENTIFICATION 19 9
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P A R T T H R E E
stocks, sauces, and soupschap te r ! ! MISE EN PLACE FOR STOCKS, SAUCES, AND SOUPS 239
chapter 12 STOCKS 253
chapter 13 SAUCES 267
chapter 14 SOUPS 301
PA R T F O U R
meats, poultry, fish, and shellfishchapter 15 MISE EN PLACE FOR MEATS, POULTRY, FISH, AND SHELLFISH 361
chapter 16 FABRICATING MEATS, POULTRY, AND FISH 37 5
chapter 17 GRILLING, BROILING, AND ROASTING 42 3
Chapter 18 SAUTEING, PAN FRYING, AND DEEP FRYING 487
chapter 19 STEAMING AND SUBMERSION COOKING 531
chaptei -2 0 BRAISING AND STEWING 571
PA R T F I V E
vegetables, potatoes, grains andlegumes, and pasta and dumplings
chapter 21 MISE EN PLACE FOR VEGETABLES AND FRESH HERBS 617
chapter 22 COOKING VEGETABLES 64 7
chapter 23 COOKING POTATOES 71 3
chapter 24 COOKING GRAINS AND LEGUMES 751
chapter 25 COOKING PASTA AND DUMPLINGS 807
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PA R T S I X . . ;
breakfast and garde mangerchapter 26 COOK ING EGGS 847
Chapter 27 SALAD DRESSINGS AND SALA DS 879
chapter 28 SANDWICHES 931
chapter 29 HORS D'OEUVRE AND APPET IZERS 945
chapter 30 CHARCUTERIE AND GARDE MANGER 985
PA R T S E V E N
baking and pastrychapter 31 BAK ING MIS E EN PLACE 1015
chapter 32 YEA ST BREAD S 1025
Chapter 33 PASTRY DOUGHS AND BATTERS 1047
Chapter 34 CUSTARDS, CREAMS , AND MOU SSES 1091 H
chapter 35 FILLIN GS, FROSTINGS, AND DESSERT SAUCES 1107;Q
4 >>
chapter 36 PLATED DESSER TS 1131, v -
Appendix 1161 J f l
Glossary 1167
Read ings and Res ource s 1185
Recipe Inde x 1191
Su bjec tlnde x 1202 %" T_ s
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master recipe listchapter 12 stocks
Chicken Stock 263
WHITE VEAL STOCK 26 3
WHITE BEEF STOCK 26 3
Brown Veal Stock 263
BROWN GAME STOCK (JUS DE GIBIER ) 264
ESTOUFFADE 264
BROWN LAMB STOCK 26 4
BROWN PORK STOCK 26 4
BROWN CHICKEN STOCK 26 4
BROWN DUCK STOCK 26 4
Fish Fumet 264
SHELLFISH STOCK 264
Vegetable Stock 26 5
ROASTED VEGETABLE STOCK 26 5
Court Bouillon 265
Poul t ry and Meat Stock (Brodo ) 266
Ichi Ban Dashi 26 6
chap ter 13 sauces
J u s d e Ve a u L i e 2 9 3
JUS DE VOLAILLE LIE 29 3
JUS DE CANARD LIE 29 3
JUS D'AGNEAU LIE: 29 3
JUS DE GIBIER LIE 29 3
Demi-Glace 293
Espagnole Sauce 2 94
Chicken Veloute 294 SUPREME SAUCE 29 4
FISH VELOUTE 29 4
SHRIMP VELOUTE 294
VEGETABLEVELOUTE 294
Bechamel Sauce 295 CHEDDAR CHEESE SAUCE 29 5
MORNAYSAUCE 295
CREAM SAUCE 295
Tomato Sauce 2 95
Bolognese Meat Sauce (Ragu Bolognese) 296Tomato Coulis 296
Bearnaise Sauce 297
MINT SAUCE (PALOI5E SAUCE) 297
CHORONSAUCE 297
Hollandaise Sauce 298
MOUSSELINE SAUCE 298MALTAISE SAUCE 29 8
Beurre Blanc 299
Red Pepper Coulis 299
Pesto 299
MaTtre dHotel Butter 300
TARRAGON BUTTER 30 0
PIMIENTO BUTTER 300
GREEN ONION BUTTER 30 0
DILL BUTTER 300
SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND OREGANOBUTTER 300
BASIL BUTTER 300
chap ter 14 soups
Beef Consomme 333
CHICKEN CONSOMME ROYALE. 333
Royale Custard 333
Chicken Broth 334
AM ISH CORN AND CHICK ENSOUP 334
BEEF BROTH: 33 4
VEAL BROTH 334
HAM OR SMOKED PORK BROTH 33 4
LAMB BROTH 334
TURKEY OR GAME BROTH 33 4
FISH BROTH 33 4
SHELLFISH BROTH 334
Onion Soup 335
WHITE ONION SOUP 335
ONION SOUP GRATINEE 33 5
Tortilla Soup 335
Chicken Rice Soup (Canja) 33 6 Cream of Tomato Soup 339
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITHRICE 339
Cream of Broccoli Soup 339CREAM OF ASPARAGUS (CREME
AR G EN TEU IL ) 33 9
CREAM OF CELERY (CREME DE CELERI) 33 9
Wisconsin Chedd ar Cheese and Beer Soup 340
New England-Style Clam Chowder 340
Conch Chowd er 341
Corn Chowder 341
Pacific Seafood Chowder 342 Manh at tan-Style Clam Chowder 344
Puree of Lentil Soup 344
Puree of Split Pea Soup 345
PUREE OF YELLOW SPLIT PEASOUP 345
Caribbean-Style Puree of Black Bean Soup 34 5
Senat e Bean Soup 346
Potage Garbure 346
Vichyssoise 347
Shrimp Bisque 347
Lobster Bisque (Bisque de Homard ) 348
Chicken and Shrimp Gumbo 348
Gazpacho An daluz (Andalucian Gazpacho) 34 9
Ham Bone and Collard Greens Soup 350
Chinese Hot and Sour Soup (Suan La Tang) 350Spicy B eef Soup (Yukkaejang ) 351
Miso Soup 353Thai Chicken Soup with Coconut Milk and Galangal 353
Thai Hot and Sour Soup (Tom Yum Kung) 354 WontonSoup 354
Tuscan Wh ite Bean and Escarole Soup 355
Vegetable Soup, Emilia Romagna Style ( Mines t rone alia Emiliana) 357
Minest rone 357
chapter 15 mise en place formeats, poultry, fish, and shellfish
Garam Masala 368
Chinese Five-Spice Powder 368
Barbecue Spice Mix 368
Chili Powder 368
Curry Powder 369
Quatre Epices 369
v i i i MASTER RECIPE LIST
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Fines Herbes 369
Red Curry Paste 370
Green Curry Paste 370
Yellow Curry Paste 371
Seasoning Mix for Spi t -Roasted Meats and Poultr y 371
A s ia n -S ty le Mar in ad e 372
Barbecue Marinade 372
Fish Marinade 372
Red Wine Game Marinade 372
Lamb Marinade 373
Lat in Ci t rus Marinade (Mojo) 373
Red Wine Marinade fo r Gri lled Meats 374
Teriyaki Marinade 374
chapter 17 grilling, broiling, and
roasting
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin Steak with Mushroom Sauce 440
GRILLED OR BROILED SIRLOIN STEAKWITH MAITRE DHOTEL BUTTER 440
MUSHROO M SAUCE 440
Grilled or Broiled Sirloin with Marchand de Vin Sauce 441
MARCHAND DEVIN SAUCE 441
Sei tan Satay 442
Beef Teriyaki 445
Barbecued Steak with Herb Crust 445Skewered Beef and Scallions 446
Grilled Rib Eye Steak 446
Pork and Veal Skewers (Raznjici ) 447
BROILED LAMB KEBABS WITHPIMIENTO BUTTER 44 7
DILL SAUCE 447
Grilled Smoked Iowa Pork Chops 448
AP PL E CIDER SAUCE 44 8
CARAMELIZED APPLES 448
Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops with Sherry Vineg ar Sauce 450
SHERRY VINEGAR SAUCE 450
Grilled Lamb Chops with Rosemary, Articho kes, and Cipollini Onions 451
Indian Grilled Lamb with Fresh Mango Chutney 453
FRESH MANGO CHUTNEY 453
Pakis tani-Style Lamb Pat t ies 454
Grilled or Bro iled Chicken Breasts with Sun-Dried Tomato and Oregano Bu t ter 454
Grilled or Bro iled Chicken Breasts with Fennel 455
Grilled Paillards o f Chicken wi th Tarragon Bu t ter 455
Brazilian Mixed Grill 45 7HOT PEPPER SAUCE(MOLHO
A PI ME NT ADO) 45 7
Barbecued Chicken Breast with Black Bean Sauce 45 8
BLACK BEAN SAUCE 458
Jerked Game Hens 45 9
Fi l le t of Mahi Mahi wi th Pineapple-Ji'cama Salsa 45 9
PINEAPPLE-JICAMA SALSA 459
Broi led Stuf fed Lobs ter 461
Broiled B luefish a I 'Anglaise with MaTtre d'Hot el Bu tter 461
Fish Kebabs 462 MINT AND YOGURT CHUTNEY 462
Beef Wel l ington 463 MADEIRA SAUCE 46 3
MARSALA SAUCE 463
Stand ing Rib Roas t au Jus 46 4
Veal Shoulder Poele 464
Pork Roast with Jus Lie 465
Baked Stuff ed Pork Chops 465
Cantonese Roast Pork (C h a r S i u ) 466
Guava-Glazed Pork Ribs 467 GUAVA BARBECUE SAUCE 467
Carolina Barbecue 469 NORTH CAROLINA PIEDMONT SAUCE 469
NORTH CAROLINA WESTERN BARB ECUE SAUCE 46 9
MUSTARD B ARBECUE SAUCE (NORTH CAROLINA EASTERN LOW COUNTRY SAUCE) 469
Pork But t wi th Coles law 470
Smoked B risket wi th Sweet Pickles 4 72
CHEF CLARK'S SOUTHWEST-STYLE SAUCE 472-3
St . Lou is-Style Ribs 475 BARB ECUE SAUCE 475
Lacquer-Roasted Pork Ribs (Kao Paigu) 476
Roast Leg of Lamb Boulangere 476
Roast Rack of Lamb Persille 477 PERSILLADE A l l
Roasted Shou lder of Lamb and Couscous ( Mechoui ) 478
Roast Leg of Lamb with Haricots Blancs (Gigot a la Bretonne) 480
Roast Leg of Lamb with Min t Sauce 481
SALT HERBS 481
Roast Chicken wit h Pan Gravy 482 Chicken Legs with Duxelles S tu ff ing 482
Pan-Smoked Chicken 483
Breast of Rock Cornish Game Hen with Mushroom Forcemeat 483
MUSHRO OM FORCEMEAT 484
Roast Duckling with Sauce Bigarade 484-5
Roast Turkey with Pan Gravy and Chestnut Stuff in g 485
CHESTNUTSTUFFING 486
Salmon Fillet w ith Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Crust 486
chap ter 18 sauteing, pan frying,and deep frying
Sauteed Chicken with Fines HerbesSauce 500
FINES HERBES SAUCE 500
Chicken Provengal 501 BEEFTOURNEDOSPROVENCAL 501
Emince of Swiss -Style Veal 503
Veal Scaloppine Marsala 503
PORK SCALOPPINE WITH TOMATOSAUCE 503
MARSALA SAUCE 504
Noiset tes of Pork wi th Green Peppercorn s and Pineapple 504
Sauteed Medallions of Pork wi th Win ter Frui t Sauce 505
WINTER FRUITSAUCE 505
Pork Medallions with Warm Cabbage Salad 506
NOISETTES OF PORK WITH REDONION CONFIT 506
WARM CABBAGE SALAD 506
Pork Cutlet with Sauce Rober t 508
SAUCE ROBERT 508
SAUCE CHARCUTIERE 508
Red Snapper w ith Grapefru i t Salsa 509
Trout Amandine 509
MASTER RECIPE LIST
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Ancho -Cru ste d Sal mon wit h Yellow Pepper Sauce 511
YEL LOW PEPPER SAUCE 511
Vatapa 512
Sauteed Trout a la Meuniere 513
Shrimp Ticin-Xic 513
Bibimbap 514
St i r-Fr ied Squid wi th Thai Basil 515
Breast o f Chicken with Duxelles Stu ffin g and Supreme Sauce 515
Bu t termilk Fr ied Chicken 516 COUNTRY GRAVY 516
Pan-Fried Veal Cutlets 518 WIENER SCHNITZEL 518
PAN-FRIED BREADED PORK CUTLET 518
Veal Cordon Bleu 51 8
Veal Piccata with Milanese Sauce (Piccata di Vitello alia Milanese) 519Milanese Sauce 519
Fishermans Plat ter 520 REMOULADESAUCE 520
Old-Fashioned Salt Cod Cakes 521
Pan-Fried Brook Trout with Bacon 522
Floun der a IOrly 52 2
Beer Bat ter 522
Shrimp Tempura 523 TEMPURA DIPPING SAUCE 523
Crispy Tangerine-Flavored Chicken 524
SWEET GARLIC SAUCE 52 4
Grandmother 's Bean Curd (Mo Po Dofu) 527 Hanoi Fried Fish with Dill (Cha Ca Thang Long ) 527
Fried Fish Cakes 52 8
Chiles Reltenos con Picadillo Oaxaqueno 528-9
Tinga Poblano 530
chap ter 19 steaming andsubmersion cooking
Bass and Scallops en Papi l lo te 553
Poached Sea Bass with Clams, Bacon, and Peppers 553
Poached Trout w ith Saffron Mousse 555
POACHED SOLE WITH SAFFRON MOUSSE 555
TROUT AND SAFFRON MOUSSELINE 555
SOLE MOUSSELIN E 555
SALMON MOUSSELINE 555
Poached Trout Paupiett es
with Vin Blanc Sauce 556Poached Sole Paupiet tes Veronique 557
ROYALGLACAGE 557
Poached Sole with Vegetable Julienne and Vin Blanc Sauce 558
Fillet o f Snapper en Papi l lo te 558-9
New England Shore Dinner 561
Boston Scrod with Cream,Capers, and Tomato es 561
Pescado Veracruzana 562
Cioppino 562-3 GARLIC-FLAVORED CROUTONS 563
Poached Chicken Br east with Tarragon Sauce 56 4
Farmhouse Chicken with Angel Bi sc ui ts 5 64
Poule a u Pot (Chicken with Vegetables) 565
Udon Noodle Pot 566
Corned B eef wi th Winter Vegetables 566
Beef Nood le Soup (Pho Bo) 569Boiled Beef with Spatzle and Potatoes (Gaisburger Marsch) 57 0Seafood Poached in a Saffro n Broth wi th Fennel 570
chapter 20 braising and stewing
Braised Oxtails 581DEEP-FRIED ONIONS 581
Korean Braised Short Ribs (Kalb iJ j im) 582Braised Short Ribs 584
Beef Rouladen in Burgundy Sauce 584-5
ROULADEN STUFFING 585
Yankee Pot Roast 586
Sauerbraten 587
Mole Negro 588 -9
Beef Stew 589
Braised Pork Rolls and Sausage in Meat Sauce with Rigatoni (Braciole di Maiale al Ragu e Rigatoni ) 590
Choucroute 593
HOMEMAD E SAUERKRAUT 593
Cassoulet 594
DuckConf i t 595
New Mexican GreenChile Stew 595
Pork Vindaloo 596
Pork in a Green Curry Sauce 596
Szekely Goulash (SzekelyGulyas) 597Veal Blanq uette 597
Braised Veal Br east with Mushroom Sausage 598
MUSHROOM SAUSAGE 598
Pork Goulash 599 BEEF GOULASH 599
Osso Buco Milanes e 601 GREMOLATA 601
Polish Stu ffed Cabbage 602 Braised Lamb Shanks 604
Portuguese Stuffed Leg of Lamb 605
HERBED FORCEMEAT STUFFING 605
Lamb Navarin 606
Lamb Khorma 607
Curried Goat with Green Papaya Salad 608
Irish Stew 608
Couscous with Lamb and Chicken Stew 609
Chicken Tagine 611 PRESERVED LEMONS 611
Chicken Fricassee 612 VEAL FRICASSEE 612
Chicken and Prawn Ragout (Mar i Muntanya) 612-3
chapter 22 cooking vegetables
Boiled Carrots 681
Boiled Edamame 681
Steamed Broccoli 681BROCCOLI AND TOASTED GARLIC 681
Glazed Beets 683
Creamed Corn 683
Pan-Steamed Carrots 684PAN-STEAMED HARICOTSVERTS 684
PECAN CARROTS 68 4
MASTER RECIPE LIST
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Gingered Snow Peas and Yellow Squash 684
Green Beans with Walnuts 685
Glazed Carrots 685
Grilled Vegetables Proven
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Congee 795
Mille t and Cauliflow er Puree 796
Mixed Grain Pilaf 796
Green Onion-Bulgur Pi laf 796 -7
Kasha with Spicy Maple Pecans 799
Wheat B erry Salad with Oranges, Cherries , and Pecans 79 9
Barley Salad with Cucumber and Mint 800
Sweet and Spicy Bulgur Salad 800
Cracked Wheat and Tomato Salad 803
Am ar an th Pan ca ke s 803
Saigon Crepes 804
Font ina Risot to Fr i t ters 804
Corn and Asiago Cheese Riso tto Cakes 8 05
Wild Rice Cakes 806
chapter 25 cooking pasta anddumplings
Fresh Egg Pasta 819
WHOLE WHEAT PASTA 81 9
BUCKWHEAT PASTA 81 9
SPINACH PASTA 81 9
SAFFRON PASTA 81 9
CITRUS PASTA 81 9
CURRIED PASTA 81 9
HERBED PASTA 81 9
BLACK PEPPER PASTA 81 9
RED PEPPER PASTA 81 9
TOMATO PASTA 81 9
PUMPKIN, CARROT, OR BEETPASTA 819
Basic Boiled Pasta 819
Orecchiette with Italian Sausage, Broc coli Rabe, and Parmesan 821
Pasta alia Carbon ara 821
Stir-Fried Glass Noodles (.JapChae ) 822
Pad Thai 822Tempeh Cashew Noodles 82 5
Lasagna di Carnevale Napol i tana 825
Couscous 826
Classic Bolognese Lasagna with Ragu and Bechamel (Lasagna al Forno) 826
As parag us and White Bean Lasagna 829
Ravioli Bercy 830
Gnocchi di Semolina Gratin ati 831
Gnocchi di Rico tta 831
Gnocchi Piedmon tese 832
Spatz le 834
Bread Dumplings 835
Biscui t Dumplings 835
Hush Puppies 837 Dim Sum 83 7
POTSTICKERS 837
Steamed Dumplings (.Shao-Mai ) 838
Pan-Fried Dumplings (GuoTie) 841
GINGER-SOY DIPPING SAUCE 841
Potato and Cheddar-Filled Pierogi with Caramelized Onions, Beurre Noi sette, and Sage 842
chap ter 26 cooking eggs
Hard-Cooked Eggs 866
CODDLED EGGS 86 6
SOFT-COOKED EGGS 866
MEDIUM-COOKED EGGS 866
Deviled Eggs 86 6
DEVILED EGGS WITH TOMATO 86 6
DEVILED EGGS WITH GREENS 86 6
DEVILED EGGS WITH CHEESE 86 6
Pickled Eggs 86 8
RED PICKLED EGGS 86 8
Poached Eggs 86 8
Poached Eggs Mom ay 869
POACHED EGGS, FARMER-STYLE 869
POACHED EGGS WITHMUSHROOMS 869
POACHED EGGS MAS SENA 86 9
Poached Eggs with Corned Beef Hash 869
Eggs Benedic t 871
EGGS FLORENTINE 871
POACHED EGGS, AMERICAN-STYLE 871
POACHED EGGS WITH CHICKEN LIVERCHASSEUR 871
POACHED EGGS WITH SMOKEDSALMON 871
Fried Eggs 871
EGGS OVER EASY, MEDIUM, ORHARD 871
Scrambled Eggs 872
SCRAMBLED EGG WHITES 87 2
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITHCHEESE 872
SCRAMBLED EGGS, SWEDISH-STYLE 872
SCRAMBLED EGGS, HUNTER-STYLE 872
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITHBRATWURST 872
SCRA MBLED EGGS GRATINE 87 2
SCRAMBLED EGGS, GREEK-STYLE 872
Plain Rolled Omelet 872
PLAIN ROLLED EGG WHITEOMELET 873
CHEESE OMELET 873
CHEESE AND VEGETABLEOMELET 873
MEAT AND CHEESE OMELET 87 3
HERB OMELET 87 3
TOMATO OMELET 873
OMELET FLORENTINE 873OMELET MARCEL 873
OMELET OPERA 87 3
SEAFOOD OMELET 873
SHELLFISH OMELET 873
WESTERN OMELET 873
SPANISH OMELET 873
JELLY OMELET 873
Farmer-Style Omelet 873
Souff leed Cheddar Omelet 874
Spinach Souff le 874
SAVORY CHEESE SOUFFLE 87 4
Ar ti ch o ke So u ff le 875 Warm Goat Cheese Custard 875
Quiche Lorraine 876 SPINACH QUICHE 876
TOMATO AND LEEK QUICHE 87 6
CARAME LIZED ONION QUICHE 876
SMOKED SALMON AND DILLQUICHE 876
BROCCOLI AND CHEDDARQUICHE 876
French Toast 878
chap ter 27 salad dressings andsalads
Red Wine Vinaig ret te 896
WHITE WINE VINAIGRETTE 896
MUSTARD-HERB VINAIGRETTE 896
ROASTED GARLIC AND MUSTARDVINAIGRETTE 896
LEMON-GARL IC VINAIGRETTE 896
LEMON-PARS LEY VINAIGRETTE 896
x i i MASTER RECIPE LIST
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Chipot le-Sherry Vinaigret te 896
Alm ond-Fi g Vin ai g ret t e 8 9 7
Apple Ci der Vin aig ret t e 8 97
Balsamic Vinaig ret te 897
Curry Vinaig ret te 898
Honey-Poppy Seed-Ci t rus Dressing 898
Fire-Roasted Tomato Vina ig re t t e 899
Guava-Curry Vinaig ret te 899
Truff le Vinaig ret te 900
HERB AND TRUFFLEVINAIGRETTE 900
Peanut Oil and Malt Vineg ar Salad Dressing 900
Pesto Vinaigr et te 901
Vinaigr et te Gourmande 901
WALNUTOILAND RED WINEVINAIGRETTE 901
Green Goddess Dressing 901
Catalina French Dressing 902
Peanut Dressing 902
Caesar-Style Dressing 902
Cucumber Dressing 903
Mayonnaise 903
AN CHOV Y-C AP ER MAY ON NAISE 90 3
TARTAR SAUCE 90 3
GREEN MAYONNAISE 903
AToli 904
Blue Cheese Dressing 904
Creamy Black Pepperco rn Dressing 904
Japanese Salad Dressing 905
Ranch-Style Dressing 905
Thousand Island Dressing 906
Basil Oil 90 6
Orange Oil 90 7
Green Onion Oil 90 7
Paprika Oil 907
Mixed Green Salad 907
Thai Table Salad 90 8
Smoked Bean Curd and Celery Salad 908
Caesar Salad 90 8
Wedge of Iceberg with ThousandIsland Dressing 909
Chef s Salad 909
Greek Salad 910
Endive Salad with Roq uefo rt andWalnuts (So/ode de Roquefor t ,Noix, et Endives) 910 Cobb Salad 913
Taco Salad 91 3
TACO SAUCE 91 4
Wilted Spinach Salad with Warm Bacon Vinaig ret te 914
Mushrooms, Beets, and Baby Greens with Robiola Cheese and Walnuts 917
Sherried Watercress and App le Sal ad 917
Baby Spinach, Avo cado, and Grapefrui t Salad 918
Waldorf Salad 918
Celeriac and Tart App le Salad 918
Chayote Salad with Oranges(Salada de Xuxu) 919Summer Melon Salad withProsciut to 919
Onion and Cucumber Salad(Kachu mber) 919
Classic Polish Cucumber Salad(Mizer ia Klasyczna ) 920
Coleslaw 920
Moroccan Carro t Salad 920
Corn and Ji'cama Salad 921
Ji'cama Salad 921
Green Papaya Salad 921
Cucumber and Wakame Salad ( Sunonomo ) 922
Sliced Daikon Salad (Mu Chae) 922 Cucumber Salad 922
Cucumber Yogu rt Salad 923 Chicken Salad 92 3
Hue-Sty le Chicken Salad 924
CRISPY SHALLOTS 924
Tuna Salad 92 4
Egg Salad 925
Ham Salad 925
Shrimp Salad 925
Pasta Salad with Pesto Vina ig re t t e 925
European-Style Pota to Salad 926
Potato Salad 926
Eastern Mediterranean Bread Salad (Fottou sh) 926
Panzanella 927
Tomato and Mozzarella Salad 928
Roasted Peppers ( Peperoni A r r o s t i t i ) 928
Green Lent il Salad (Salade des Lentilles du Pu y) 928
VARIATION 928
Mixed Bean Salad 929
Warm Black -Eyed Pea Salad 929
Curried Rice Salad 930
Seafood Ravigote 930
chapter 28 sandwiches
CIA Club 934 Philly Hoagie 934
Chicken Burger 936
Barbecued Beef 936
Open-Faced Turkey Sandwich with Sweet and Sour Onions 937
Croque Monsieur 937
Eggplant and Prosciutto Panini 939
MARINATED EGGPLANTFILLING 939
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich
with Manchego Cheese 940 Three Cheese Melt 940
Reuben Sandwich 942
Tempeh Reuben 942
Cucumber Sandwich with Herbed Cream Cheese 943
Watercress Sandwich with Herb Mayonnaise 943
App le San dw ic h w it h Cu rr y Mayonnaise 943
Gorgonzola and Pear Sandwich 944
Tomato Sandwich with Oregano Sour Cream 944
chap ter 29 hors doeuvre andappetizers
Smoked Salmon Mousse 953
Blue Cheese Mouss e 953
GOAT CHEESE MOUSSE 953
Pico de Gallo 953
Salsa Verde Asada 954
Salsa Verde Cruda 95 4
Salsa Roja 95 4
Papaya-Blac k Bean Salsa 955
Grapefru i t Salsa 955
Cumberland Sauce 955
As ian Dippi ng Sau ce 95 6
Cilantr o-Lim e Soy Sauce 956
Vietnam ese Dipping Sauce 956
Spring Roll Dipping Sauce 957
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce 957
MASTER RECIPE LIST
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Guacamole 958
Hummus bi Tahini 95 8
Baba Ghanoush 95 8
Harissa 959
Tapenade 959
Z'hug 960
Spicy Mustard 960Wasabi 960
Roasted Red Pepper Marmalade 960
Cranberr y Relish 961
Spicy Mango Chutney 961
Curried Onion Relish 961
Pickled Ginger 962
Pickled Red Onions 96 2
Tortil la Chips 962
Seviche of Scallops 962
Ceviche Estilo Acapulco 963
Smoked Salmon Plat ter 963
Tuna Carpaccio ( Crudo di Tonno alia Bat tu ta) 965Coconut Macadamia Shrimp 966
Clams Casino 966
Chesapeake-Style Crab Cakes 96 9
Broiled Shrimp with Garlic 969
S tu ffed Shrimp 970
Samosas 970
Tofu Cakes with Portob ello Mushrooms and Mango Ketchup 971
Pescado Frito 972
Mussels wi th W hite Wine and Shallots (M oules a la Mariniere) 975Tuna and Bean Salad ( Insa la ta di Tonno e Fagioli) 97 5Baby Squid in Black Ink Sauce (Txipirones Salts a Beltzean) 976Octopus "Fairground Style"(Pulpo a Feira) 97 6Grilled Shrimp Paste on
Sugarcane (Chao Tom) 97 7 Mushroom Strudel wi th Goat Cheese 978
Black Bean Cakes 978
Potato Omelet ( Torti l la Espanola) 979Spring Rolls 980
California Rolls 981
Vietnam ese Salad Rolls 981
Beef Carpaccio 982
Beef Satay with Peanut Sauce 982
Vite l lo Tonnato 983
Lobster Salad with Beets, Mangos, Av oc ados , and Or an ge Oi l 983
Pork and Pepper Pie (Empanada Gallega de Cerdo) 98 4
chapter 30 charcu terie and gardemanger
Seafood and Salmon Terrine 993
FLOUNDER MOUSSELINE 993
Pate Grand-Mere 994
Aspi c 995
Chicken and Crayfish Terrine 996
Shellfish Essence 996
Cou ntry-Style Terr ine (Pdte
de Campagne) 998Pork Tenderloin Roulade 999
MEAT BRINE 999
Chicken Galantine 100 0
Foie Gras Terrine 100 1
FOIE GRAS ROULADE 100 1
Venison Terrine 1002
Duck Terrine with Pistachios and Dried Cherries 10 02 -3
Chicken Liver Pate 100 4
Duck and Smoked Ham Terr ine 1004-5
Pate Dough 100 6SAFFRON PATE DOUGH 10 06
Seafood Pate en Crou te 100 8
Vegetable Terrine with Goat Cheese 101 0
Pate Spice 1011
Gravlax 1011
chapter 31 baking mise en place
Egg Wash 10 23
Simple Syrup 1023COFFEE SIMPLE SYRUP 102 3
LIQUEUR-FLAVORED SIMPLESYRUP 1023
Chant i l ly Cream/Whipped Cream for Garnish 1023
Common Meringue 1024
Swiss Meringue 1024
I tal ian Meringue 1024
chap ter 32 yeast breads
Basic Lean Dough 10 33
Baguet tes 1033
Boules 1034
Focaccia 1034
Hard Rolls 1036
Ciabat ta 1036
Pita Bread 103 7
Semolina Pizza Crust 103 7
MARGHERITA PIZZA 1037
SPINACH PIZZA 1037
Naan Bread 1039
Cottag e Dill Rolls 1039
Brioche Loaf 1040 BRIOCHE ATETE 1040
Raisin B read with Cinnamon Swir l 1043
Challah (3-Bra id) 1044Sof t Dinner Rolls 1045
Sweet Dough 104 5
Stick y Buns 1046
cha pter 33 pastry doughs andbatters
Basic Pie Dough (3-2 -1) 1070
Bu t termilk Biscui ts 1070
Cream Scones 107 2
RAISIN SCONES 107 2HAM AND CHEDDAR SCONES 107 2
Irish Soda Bread 1072
But termilk Pancakes 1073
BASIC WAFFLES 107 3
BANANA PANCAKES 10 73
CHOCOLATE CHIP PANCAKES 10 73
BLUEBERRY PANCAKES 107 3
OATMEAL PANCAKES 107 3
Fried Bread (Puri) 107 4
Johnny Cakes 10 74
Crepes Suzet te 1075
DESSERT CREPES 10 76
Puff Past ry Dough 1076
Bli tz Puff Past ry Dough 1077
Basic Muff in Recipe 1078CRANBERRY-ORANGEMUFFINS 1078
BLUEBERRY MUFFINS 1078
Bran Muff ins 1078
Corn Muff ins 1079CORNBREAD 1079
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I
Banana -NutBread 1079
Pumpkin Bread 1081
Pound Cake 108 1
Devil's Food Cake 10 82
Ange l Foo d Cak e 10 82
Vanilla Spong e Cake 10 83
CHOCOLATE SPONGE CAKE 10 83
Chocolate XS Cake 108 3
Cheesecake 1084GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1084
P a t e a C h o u x 1 0 8 4
GOUGERES(GRUYERE CHEESEPUFFS) 1084
Eclairs 1085
CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS 108 5
Prof i t e ro l e s 1085
ICECREAM-FILLEDPROFITEROLES 1085
1-2 -3 Cookie Dough 108 6
Alm ond-A nis e B is c o tt i 1086
Pecan Diamonds 108 8
Chocolate Chunk Cookies 108 8
CHERRY-CHOCOLATE CHUNKCOOKIES 1088
Mudslide Cookies 108 9
Oatmeal-Raisin Cookies 1089
Nut Tuile Cookies 109 0
Fudge Brownies 109 0
chap ter 34 custards, cream s, andmousses
Vanilla Sauce 10 98
Past ry Cream 1098
CHOCOLATE PASTRY CREAM 10 98
Pastry Cream fo r Souff les 1099
Creme Brulee 1099
Creme Caramel 110 0
Vanilla Ice Cream 11 03
CHOCOLATE ICECREAM 110 3
COFFEE ICE CREAM 11 03
RASPBERRY ICE CREAM 11 03Diplomat Cream 110 3
Chocolate Mousse 1104
Raspberry Mousse 1104
Chocolate Souff le 1106
Bread and Bu tter Pudding 1106
chap ter 35 fillings, frostings, anddessert sauces
I ta lian But terc ream 1125
App le Pie 11 25
Cherry Pie 1126
Pecan Pie 11 26
CRANBERRY-PECAN PIE 112 6
Lemon Meringu e Pie 112 7
Pumpkin Pie 112 7
Frangipane Filling 112 8
Pear Frangipane Tartlet s 112 8 POACHED PEARS 112 8
Hard Ganache 112 8
Chocolate Sauce 112 9
Sabayon 1129
ZABAGLIONE 1129
Classic Caramel Sauce 11 29
Raspberr y Coulis 1129 A p rico t Glaze 11 30
Dried Cherry Sauce 113 0
App le B u t ter 1130
Fru it Salsa 113 0
cha pter 36 plated desserts
Warm Date Spice Cake with Dates, Butters cot ch Sauce, and Cinnamon Ice Cream 113 5
CINNAMON ICECREAM 1135
APPL E CH IP S 1136
MILK CHOCOLATE CINNAMON STICKS 1136
DATE SPICE CAKE 11 37
PHYLLOTUBES 1137
BUTTERSCOTCH SAUCE 11 37
ORANGE-SCENTED CREME CHANTILLY 1138
CARAMELIZED APPLES 1138
Blackberry and Por t -Poached Pears with Ricotta Cream and Sable Cookies 1139
BLACKBERRY AND PORT-POACHED PEARS 1139
SABLE COOKIES 1140
RICOTTA CREAM 1140
Lemon Souffle Tart with Basil Ice Cream and Blueberr y Compote 1143
BASIL ICE CREAM 114 3
TARTLET SHELLS 114 4
TUILES 1144
BASIL SAUCE 114 5
LEMON CURD 1145
BLUEBERRY COMPOTE 1145
Key Lime Tart 1146 CREME CHANTILLY 114 6
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST 1146
KEY LIME TART 1 146
STRAWBERRY COULIS 1146
Mango and Passion-Poached Pineapple with Coconut Flan and Ci lantro Sorbet 1149
MANGO AND PASSION-POACHED PINEAPPLE 1149
CILANTRO SORBET 1149
COCONUT CHIPS 1150
COCONUT FLANS 1150
Smores 1151 GRAHAM CRACKER ICE CREAM 1151
CHOCOLATE GRAHAM DECOR 1152
GRAHAM CRACKER CRUST FOR SMORES 1152
MARSHMALLOW 1152
BEIGNETTRU FFLE CENTERS 115 3
CLASSIC CARAMEL SAUCE 115 3
WHITE SAUCE 1154
CHOCOLATE BEIGNET BATTER 1154
Prof i t e ro l e s 1157
VANILL A ICE CREAM 1157 COFFEE ICE CREAM 11 58
DUL CEDEL ECHEICE CREAM 1158
CORN FLAKE CRUNCH 1159
CHOCOLATE SAUCE 115 9
VANILLA CARAMEL SAUCE 1159
CHOCOLATE PATE A CHOUX 116 0
CHOCOLATE STRAWS 116 0
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acknowledgmentsTHANK YOU to the follow ing facu lty and sta ff at The Culinary Institute o f America for
assisting in the revision fo r the ninth edition o f The Profes sional Chef: Tim Ryan, CMC, AAC; M ark Er ick so n, CMC; Brad Barnes , CMC, CCA, AAC; Lou Jones; Cha rlie Ra scoll ; Eve
Felder; Thomas L. Vaccaro.
The heart of this book is the de tailed explana tion of coo king methods in words and
images, as well as an amazingly diverse collection of recipes. For their d edication to ex
cellence in several areas (reading and critiquing the te xt, te sting and reviewing recipes,
and being the hands you see in the photographs), the following individuals are also to be
cong ratulated and thanked:
Mark Ainsworth '86, CHE, PC III, CEC
Clemens Averbeck, CEC, CHE
David J. Barry '95, CHE
Frederick C. Brash '76, CHE
Elizabeth E. Briggs, CHE
Robert Briggs
David J. Bruno '88, PC lll/CEC, CHE
Kate Cavot ti, CMB, CHE
Dominick Cerrone
Shirley Shuliang Cheng, CWC, CHE
Howard F. Clark 71, CCE, CWC, CHE
Richard J. Coppedge, Jr., CMB, CHE
Gerard Coyac, CHE
Phillip Crispo PC lll/CEC/CHE
Paul Delle Rose 94, CHE
Joseph DePaola '94, CHE
John DeShetler 68, CHE, PCII/CCCJoseph W. Di Pe rr i'77, CHE
Alain Dubernard, CHE, CMB
Stephen J. Eglinski, CHE, CMB
Anit a Olivarez Eisenhauer, CHE
Mark Elia
Joseba Encabo, CHE
Martin Frei, CHE
Michael A. Garnero, CHE
Lynne G igli ott i 88, CHE
Pete r Greweling, CMB, CHE
Carol D. Hawran '93
Marc Haymon '81, CMB, CHE
James W. Heywood '67, CHE
George B. Higgins '78, CMB, CHE
James Michael Jennings '93
Stephen J. Johnson '94
David Kamen '88, PC lll/CEC, CCE,CHE
Morey Kanner '84, CHE
Cynthia Keller '83
Thomas Ki e f 78, CHE
Joseph Klug '82, CHE
Todd R. Knaster, CMB, CHE
John Kowalski '77, CHE
Pierre LeBlanc, CHE
Xavier Le Roux, CHE
Alain L. Levy, CCE, CHE
Anthony J. Ligouri, CHE
Dwayne F. LiPuma '86, CHE
AC K NO W LED G M EN TS
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James Maraldo, CHE
Hub er t J. Mar tini , CEC, CCE, CHE, AAC
Bruce S. M a tt e l'80, CHE
Francisco Migoya, CMB, CHE
Darryl Mosher, CHE
Robert Mullooly '93
Tony Nogales 88, PCII, CEC, CHE
Michael Pardus '81, CHE
Robert Perillo '86, CHE
William Phillips '88, CHE
Katherine Polenz '73, CHE
Heinrich Rapp, CHE
Surgeio Remolina, CHE
John Reilly '88,CCC,CHE
Theodore R oe '91, CHE
Paul R. Sartory '78
Giovanni Scappin
Eric L. Schawaroch '84, CHE
Thomas Schneller, CHE
Dieter G. Schorner, CMB, CHE
Johann Sebald, CHE
Michael Skibitcky, PCIII, CEC, CHE
David F. Smythe, CCE, CEC, CHE
Brannon Soileau '91, CHE
Rudo lf Spiess, CHE
John J. St e in '80, CFBE, CHE
Scott Schwartz '89, CEC, CHE
Jurgen Temme, CMB, CHE
Al ber to Vanoli , CHE
Howard Velie, CEC, CHE
Gerard Viverito, CEC, CHE
Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE
Stephane Weber, CHE
Jonathan A. Zearfoss, CEC, CCE, CCP,CHE
Gregory Zif ch ak '80, CHE
For the profes sional ch ef there are many subjects to master. A special thank you to
those who helped develop and review chapters de dicated to m anagement, food safety,
and nutrit ion:
Marjorie Livingston, RD, CHE
Richard Vergil i, CHE
The images in this book were crea ted in the Institute 's s tudios and kitchens. Many
thanks to photographer Ben Fink whose expertise and artistry is the perfect comple
men t to the te xt, techniques, and recipes.
Thanks to the book's designer, Alison Lew o f Vertigo Design, who brough t it all to
geth er be au tifully and to the p rodu ction e ditor a t Wiley, Alda Trabucchi, for her t ireless
attention to every detail, large and small. And finally, thank you to Pam Chirls, executive
editor, for her overall guidance and vision.
AC KN O W LEDG M ENTS
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introductionBECOMING A CHEF is a career-long process. Cooking is a dynamic professionone that
provides some o f the grea test challenges as well as some o f the grea test rewards. Thereis always another level of p erfec tion to achieve and another skill to m aster. It is our hope
tha t this book will function both as a springboard into futu re gro wth and as a reference
point to give ballast to the lessons s til l to be learned.
By the nature o f i ts encyclopedic subject coverage, this tex t is suited to a variety
of curricula, whether as part o f an existing program or throug h indep endent study. An
instru ctor may choose to use all or part o f i ts contents; the stude nt may use it to ad
vance his or her learning by employing it as a broad, basic text or as a reference tool to
answer spe cific questions about a pa rticular technique. The techniques as explained in
this book have all been tested in the Institutes kitchens. Each represents one of many
possible variations. The fact th at all variations are not included in this tex t does not
imply tha t other m ethods are incorrect. Experience will teach the stud ent many "tricksof the trade." The tit le of this work should not pu t i t into the rarified catego ry of books
to be used only by those w orking in restaura nt or h otel kitchens. The basic lessons of
cooking are the same wh ether one prepares food fo r paying guests or for one's family
and friends. Therefore, we hope that those who look to coo king fo r a creative o utle t will
come to regard this book as a valuable tool.
This book is suited to a variety o f teaching s ituations because the m aterial is ar
ranged in a logical, progressive sequence. Chapter One covers the history of cooking as a
profess ion and examines the skills and attribu tes of a profess ional chef and other mem
bers of the f oodservice pro fession. (For more inform ation about table service and dining
room operat ions , consul t A t Your Service o r Remarkable Service.)
Since f oodservice is a business, some o f the elem entary aspe cts of food cos ting are discussed in Chapter Two, as is how to adap t recipes from this bo ok or any
oth er fo r use in a spe cific professiona l kitchen. Knowing how to adapt recipes is useful
fo r scheduling, con trolling costs, and improving qu ality. (For more details abou t culi
nary math, consult Mat h fo r the Professional Kitchen.) N utrition and food science have
become pa rt o f the everyday language of the profess ional kitchen, and Chapter Three
reviews some basic concepts of n utrit ion and science, particularly as they relate to
cooking. (For more information about nutrit ional cooking, consult Techniques o f Healt hy
Cooking.) Food and kitchen s afety are o f increasing concern in all foods ervice o pera
tions, and Chapter Four presents fundam ental concep ts and procedures fo r assuring
tha t safe, wholesome foo d is prepared in a safe environmen t.
Counted among the basics in the kitchen is the a bility to seek out and purchase the
best possible ingredients. P art Two is a catalog o f the too ls and ingredients used in the
professional kitchen, and includes information regarding product specifications, pur
chasing, and such processing conc erns as trim loss. There are sepa rate cha pters de voted
to meats, poultry, and game; fish and shellfish; fruits, vegetables, and fresh herbs; dairy
pro du cts and eggs; and nonpe rishable good s such as oils, flou rs, grains, and dried pastas.
Cooking is not always a pe rfec tly precise art , b ut a good grasp of the basics gives
the che f or student the a bility not only to apply the technique, but also to learn the stan
dards o f qua lity so tha t they begin to develop a sense of how coo king works. Part Three
is devoted to stocks, sauces, and soups. The part opens with a chapter covering such
x v i i i I N TR O DU C TI O N
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basic mise en place techniques as preparing and using seasoning and aromatic com bina
tions (bouque t garni and sachet d'epices), mirepoix, and thickeners (roux and starches).Part Four prese nts the tech niques used to cook meats, po ultry, fish, and shellfish.
This part covers the basic fabrica ting m ethods fo r fam iliar cuts of meat, pou ltry, and fish
and then d em onstrates how to g rill, roast, saute, pan fry, s tir-fry , deep fry, steam, poach,
stew, and braise. These im po rtan t lessons are presented in clear step-b y-step pho to
graphs, with explan atory te xt and a model recipe.
In Part Five, chapters con centrate on pre paration techn iques fo r vegetables,
grains and legumes, pasta and dumplings, and potatoes. Part Six covers breakfast and
garde manger, with chapters covering eggs, salad dressings and salads, sandwiches,
and garde m anger items such as pates and terrines . (For fur the r inform ation on these
subjects, consult Garde Manger: The Art and Cra ft o f the Cold Kitchen, Third Edition .)
Baking and pastry is presented in Part Seven, with atte ntio n paid to the pre paration ofbreads and rolls; cakes and cookies; pastry doughs and crusts; a variety of fillings, icings,
and glazes; and plated desserts.
The recipes included in this book are examples of the w ide range of po ssibili t ies
open to the stud ent once the basics are mastered. It should be noted tha t these recipes
have both Am erican and m etric measurem ents. The recipe yields refle ct re al-life cook
ing situations: some items, such as stocks and soups, are prepared in large quantities,
wh ile others, such as sautes and grills, are pre pare d a la minute, a few po rtions at a time.
Larger roasts, braises, stews, and side dishes generally have yields of 10 servings; any
marinades, sauces, or condim ents included in the recipes tha t are prepa red in advance
are norm ally given in quan tities to produce a yield o f 10 servings. These yields may not
always suit the stud ent who is using the b ook outside of a professiona l kitchen. In mostcases, they can be reduced or increased in orde r to prepare the corre ct number o f serv
ings. Baking recipe yields are based on sp ec ific weigh t ratios, however, and must be fo l
lowed exactly.
The new look in this new edition re flects the way we think about teaching cooking.
We learn best when we understand not only how to do something, but why we should do
it tha t way. From this ground ed approach, stude nts a t any level can confide ntly take new
directions in the ir cooking careers.
INTRODUCTION x i x
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the culinary profi*
13
r D
Chapter 5 EQUIP MENT IDENTIFICATION 65
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grinding, slicing, mixing, and pureeing equipmentGrinders, slicers, and pureeing equipment all have the potential to be extremelydangerous. As these tools are essential for a number of operations, all chefsshould be able to use them with confidence.
FOOD PROCESSOR
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
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IMMERSION BLENDER
BLENDER
STANDING MIXER AND AT TA CH ME NT S
chap ters EQUIPMENT IDENTIFICATION 6 7
g r i n d i n
g , s l i c i n
g , m i x i n
g , a n d
p u r e e i n
g
e q u i p m e n t
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Grinding, Slicing, Mixing, and Pureeing EquipmentNAME(S) CHARACTERISTICS COMMON USES
blender Consists o f a base tha t houses the m oto r and a removable lidded jar w ith apropeller-like blade in its bottom. Speedse ttings fo r m otor are in base. Jarsmade o f stainless steel, plastic, or glass;available in several capacities
Exce llent fo r pureeing, l iquefying,and emu ls ifying foods
food processor M oto r housed in base, sep arately fromremovable bowl, blade, and lid. May haveextra disks for specialized cutting
Grinding, pureeing, blending, emulsifying, crushing, and kneading. Withspecial d isks: slicing, julienning , andshredding
immersion blender/hand blender/stickblender/burr mixer
Long, slender one-piece machine; likean inverted blender. Top houses motor, which generally runs at only onespeed. Plastic handle with on/off switch
extends from top o f housing. Stainless-s teel dr ivesha f t extends f rom m otor andends with blade, which is immersed inthe food
Pureeing, l iquefying, and em ulsifyinglarge batches of food d irec tly in thecooking vessel
vertical choppingmachine (VCM)
Motor in base is permanently attachedto bow l with integ ral blades. As a safe typrecaution, hinged lid must be locked inplace before unit will operate
Grinding, whipping em ulsifying,blending, crushing large qu antitieso f food
food chopper/buffalo chopper
Food is placed in a rotating bowl thatpasses under a hood, where blades chopthe food. Some have hoppers or feedtubes and interchang eable disks. Ava ilable in floor and tabletop models
Chopping large quantities of food;with special disks: slicing or grating
food sheer/meat slicer
Ca rrier moves food back and for thagainst circular blade, generally made ofcarbon steel. Guard provides sa fety
Slicing foods in even thicknesses
mandoline Blades of high-carbon steel. Levers ad ju s t bl ad es to ac hiev e cut and th ic knessdesired. Guard provides safety
Sl ic ing, ju l ienning, c ut t ing ga ufre t tesand batonnets
stand mixer Electric m achine has large detacha blebowl of varying capacities (5-quart,10-qua r t , 20-quar t , 40-qu ar t , e tc .) . Attachments: whip, paddle, dough hook.Bowl is locked in place and attachmentrota tes through ba t ter or dough
Mixing, beating, whipping, kneading
meat grinder May be frees tan ding m achine or a t tachme nt fo r a standing mixer. Should havedisks o f varying sizes; in general w illhave a feed tray and a pusher
Grinding; stu ffing sausage casings(with a t tachment)
TOOLS AND INGREDIENTS IN THE PROFESSIONAL KITCHEN
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meat, poultry,and gameidentification
For most restaurants, the purchase, preparation, and service of meats is one of
the most expensive areas of the businessbut also one of the most potentially
profitab le. In order to ge t the most value out o f the meats purchased, it is imp
to understand how to select the right cut for a particular cooking method.
C H A P T E R 6
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meat basicsThe meat, pou ltry, and game cuts tha t a restau rant
should buy will depend upon the nature o f the particular
operation. A restau rant fea turing p redom inantly a la
minute preparationsespecially one with a preponder
ance of grilled or sauteed item s will need to purchaseextrem ely tende r (and more expensive) cuts. A restau
rant tha t uses a varie ty o f techniques may be able to use
some less-tend er cu ts fo r example, the veal shank in a
braise such as osso buco.
Meats can be purchased in a number of forms and at
varying degrees o f readiness to cook. The chef should
consider several factors when deciding what type of
mea t to buy. Storage capacity, the equipm ent required
to prepare a menu item, the kitchen staffs ability to
fab ricate cuts, and the volume of mea t required must
all be taken into consideration. Once this info rm ation
is evaluated, the chef can determine w hethe r it is more
econo mical to p urchase large pieces, such as whole legs
of veal, or pre fabrica ted meats, such as veal already cut
into a top round, or pre cut scaloppini.
Me ats should be checked fo r wholesome ness and
freshness. Cut surfaces should appear m oist, but not
shiny. The meat sho uld have a good color, which varies
by type as well as by cut. The me at should also sm ell ap
pealing. Packaged mea ts should arrive w ith the packag
ing inta ct with no punctures or tears.
The tables accom panying the follow ing sections
contain key pieces of inform ation about beef, veal, pork,
and lamb, adapted from The Mea t Buyer's Guide by the
North Am erican Mea t Processors Association (NAMP),
including item numbers as assigned by the NAMP and
an average range in size for a cut. Appropriate cooking
methods fo r various cuts have also been included.
STORAGE
Meats, po ultry, and game should be wrapped and stored
under refrigera tion. When possible, they should be held
in a separate unit, or at least in a separate part of thecooler. They should always be placed on trays to prevent
them from dr ipping onto other foods or the f loor.
The chef should separate diffe re nt kinds o f meats;
fo r example, pou ltry should not come into con tact
wi th beef , or pork products in to contact w i th any other
meats. This w ill prevent cross contam ination.
Vacuum-packed mea ts can be stored d irectly in the
package, as long as it has not been p uncture d or ripped.
Once unwrapped, meats should be rewrapped in air-pe r
meab le paper, such as butche r's paper, because airtig ht
containers promote bacterial growth that could result inspoilage or contamination.
Variety m eats, poultry, and uncured pork produ cts,
which have sho rt sh elf lives, should be cooked as soon
as possible afte r they are received. Me at stored at the
prope r tem pera ture and under optim al conditions can
be held for several days with ou t noticeable loss of qual
ity. Mea t can also be frozen fo r longer storage.
REFRIGERATED: 28 TO B 2 F/-2 T O 0C
FROZEN: 0 TO 20 F /-1 8 TO -7C
INSPECTION AND GRADING
Governm ent inspection o f all meats is mandatory.
Inspections are required at various times: a t the slaugh
terhouse (antemortem) and again after butchering
(postmo rtem). This is done to ensure that the animal is
free fro m disease and tha t the me at is wholesome and
fi t fo r human consump tion. Inspection is a service paid
for by tax do llars.
Some states have relinquished the respo nsibili ty for
inspecting me ats to federa l inspectors. Those states
that s t i l l adm inis ter thei r own inspections of meatmust at leas t meet, if not exceed, the accep ted federal
standards.
Qu ality grading, however, is not m anda tory. The
U.S. Dep artm ent of A griculture (USDA) has developed
spe cific standards to assign grades to meats and trains
graders. The pa cker may, however, choose not to hire a
USDA grader and may forgo grading in favo r o f the use
o f an in-house brand name ins tead. The costs involved
in grading mea ts are absorbed by the individual meat
packer, not the taxpayer, since this process is voluntary.
Depending upon the pa rticula r animal, the gra der willconsider ove rall carcass shape, ratio o f fat to lean, ratio
o f me at to bone, color, and ma rbling o f lean flesh. The
grade placed on a particula r carcass is then ap plied to all
the cu ts from th a t animal. In beef, only a small percentage
of m eats produc ed is graded prime. Choice and select
are more ofte n a vailable. Grades lower than se lect are
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gene rally used for proce ssed m eat and are of no practical
importance to the restauran t (or retail) industry.
Some me ats may also receive y ield grades. This
grade is of the grea test significance to w holesalers. It
indicates the amoun t of salable me at in relation to the
tota l weight o f the carcass. Butchers refe r to this as
"cutability." In othe r words, i t is a measure of the yield o fedible meat fro m each pound o f the carcass.
MARKET FORMS OF MEAT
A ft e r s la ughte ring, in sp ectio n, and gr ad ing, th e an imal
carcass is cut into manageable pieces. Sides are pre
pared by making a cut down the length of the backbone.
Each side is cut into tw o pieces to make quarters, div id
ing the sides betwee n sp ecific vertebrae . Saddles are
made by cuttin g the an imal across the belly, again at a
spec ified p oint. The exact standards fo r individual ani
mal types govern whe re the carcass is to be divided.
The next step is to cut the animal into wha t are re
ferre d to as primal cuts. There are uniform standa rds for
beef, veal, pork, and lamb p rimals. These large cuts are
then further broken down into subprimals. Subprimals
are generally trimm ed and packed as foodse rvice, value
added, or HRI (Hotel, Restaurant, and Institution) cuts.
There may be even more fab rication or butchering done
in order to prepare steaks, chops, roasts, or ground
meat. These cuts are referre d to as portion c ontro l cuts.
The amount o f butch ering done in packing plants
has increased over the p ast several years. While it is still
possible to purchase hanging meat, most ope rations will
buy wha t is referred to as boxed meat. This indicates
tha t the m eat has been fab ricated to a spe cific point
(primal, subprimal, or retail cut), packed in Cryovac,
boxed, and shipped fo r sale to purveyors, butchers,
chain reta il outlets, and so forth.
KOSHER MEATS
Kosher meats are specially slaughtered, bled, and
fabr icated in order to comply wi th re l ig ious d ie tary
laws. In this co untry, only bee f and veal forequ arters,
pou ltry, and some game are custom arily used fo r kosher
prepa rations. Kosher meats are butchered from ani
mals slaughtered by a shohet, or by a spe cially trained
rabbi. The animal m ust be killed w ith a single stro ke of a
knife, then fully bled. All the veins and arteries must be
removed from the m eat. This process would essentially
m utilate the flesh of loins and legs of be ef and veal;there fore , these are gene rally not sold as kosher.
OFFAL
O ffal can best be described as the ed ible by-products
o f a me at carcass. Examples include organ mea ts such
as the liver, kidney, hea rt, brain, tripe , certain glands,
and intestinal tracts. In addition, the cheeks, tail, and
tongue are pa rt of the o ffal category. O ffal is generally
inexpensive but requ ires some skill to cook properly.
Organ meats are composed of fibers that are different
from those of lean muscle. Membranes, blood vessels,
and connective tissues need to be removed from livers
and kidneys. Organ m eats, such as the liver and kidneys,
are high in iron, which tran slate s in to rich flavor. The tail
has some me at and a lot o f collagen and is typic ally used
fo r rich braises.
In many cultures, offal is considered a delicacy.
Some o ffal is considered the epitome of high cuisine.
An ex am ple wou ld be th e fa tt e n e d du ck or goo se liv er
known as foie gras. This meat has a consistency that
resembles bu tter and a distinctive flavor. Foie gras is
an exception to the gene ral rule tha t organ meats are
inexpensive and can command a high price. Another ex
ception to this rule is the sweetbread, or thym us gland,
of veal. When properly prepared, this soft-structured
gland can be eaten with a fork. Sweetbreads are in high
demand and warrant a high cost.
Organ meats tend to be highly perishable and there
fore must be used fresh, within a week of slaughter, or
purchased frozen. Be sure to keep frozen items below
32 and -4F /0 and -18C to ensure the form at ion of
small ice crystals and minimize damage.
chapter 6 MEAT, POULTRY, AND GAME IDENTIFICATION 71
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beef Beef is essential to the foodservice industry,especially in the United States. A significant source ofprotein, beef is featured in an array of classic and contemporary dishes. This expensive product demands special care and training. Utilizing as much of each cut tomaximize the yield is an important practice to follow.
Cattle used for the beef industry are typically steers(castrated males) over one year old and heifers (femalecows) not required for breeding. The older the bovine,
the tougher the meat. Specialty beef such as Kobe beeffrom Japan, Limousin beef from France, and CertifiedAngus, natural, organic, and dry-aged beef from theUnited States are also available.
The eight grades of beef, in order of highest to lowest quality, are as follows: Prime, Choice, Select, Stan
dard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Prime isusually reserved for restaurants and butcher shops.
These cuts are from the primal cut known as the round: 1. hind shank, 2. shank
stew, 3. top round, 4. top round tied as a roast, 5. marrow bones
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c r
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i- h
These cuts are from the p rimal cu t known as the loin: 1. short loin, 2. porterhou se ste ak cut
from the sho rt loin, 3. top sirloin b utt, 4. flank steak, 5. tenderloin PSMO, 6. trimm ed te nde r
loin, 7. tenderlo in steaks, 8. boneless strip loin, 9. portio n-c ut str ip loin steaks
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beef, continued
These cuts are from the prim al cut known as the rib: 1. short loin, 2. portio n-c ut s hort ribs,
3, rib eye lip on, 4. por tion -cu t rib steaks
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Bovine Beef Primal Cuts
SUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARYU SES |
round primal cut
SHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground
HEEL . Braising, stew ing O ften braised or stewed; prepared asgoulash
KNUCKLE Braising, ro asting Often prepared as kabobs
TOP ROUND Roasting, pan frying, bro iling Often prepared as a roulade,braciole, or London broil
EYE ROUND Roasting, braising Pot roasted ; oven roasted and slicedthin; carpaccio; fondue
BOTTOM ROUND Braising Often prepared as a po t roast orsauerbraten
loin primal cut
SIRLOIN (TOP SIRLOINBUTT)
Roasting, broiling, grill ing Often prepared as steaks
TENDERLOIN, PSMOPORTION-CUT
Roasting, broiling, g rilling, sauteing Often prepare d as Chateaubriand,tourned os, medallions, or file tmignon
FLANK STEAK Broiling, grilling, braising Often prepared as London broil , but-ter f l ied , or s tuffed
STRIP LOIN, 175BONE-IN (SHELL); 180BONELESS
Roasting, broiling, grill ing Often prepared as a roas t or steaks(New York strip steak)
SHORT LOIN Broiling, g rillin g Often prepared as porterhouse orT-bone steak
rib primal cut
BONE -IN EXPORT RIB,109DEXPORT STYLE
Roasting, grill ing Often prepared as prime rib roast,bone-in rib steak, or cowboy steak
BONELESS LIP-ON RIB,
112A
Roasting, grilling, sauteing Often prepared boneless as rib eye
roast or Delmonico steaks
SHORT RIBS Braising Often braised, slow-roasted, orbarbecued
chuck primal cut
SQUARE-CUT CHUCK Braising, s tew ing Often prepared as chuck roast orground
SHOULDER CLOD B ra isin g, ro as tin g, s te win g, g rillin g O fte n p re pa re d as s te ak s or g ro un d
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5UBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES !
market forms
PLATE Braising Often prepared as short ribs
BRISKET Braising Often prepared corned and aspast rami
FORESHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground
variety meats (offal)
LIVER Sauteing Often prepared as forcem eat
TRIPE Braising or slow simm ering in a bro th orred sauce
Slow-braised or stewed
KIDNEYS Stewing Often baked into a pie
TONGUE Simmering Often prepared smoked
OXTAILS Braising, stew ing Often slow braised as a stew, soup,or ragoOt
INTESTINES Depends on the pre paration Used as casing for sausage
HEART Braising, stew ing Often prepared in stew or added todishes in chopped form
BLOOD Depends on the pre paration Used to prep are coa gulate sausages
loin
roundl
sirloin sho rt loin rib1 1 1
chuck1
foreshank
Beef skeletal structure
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Beef HRI Cuts
ITEM PRODUCT NAMEWEIGHT RANGE(POUNDS)
103 Rib (prim al) 3 5 -4 0
109 Rib, roas t-ready 1 8 - 2 2
109D Rib, roas t-ready, cover o ff , sh o rt-cu t 1 6 -1 8
11 2 Rib, rib eye roll 8 - 1 0
112A Rib, rib eye roll, lip on 11 - 1 3
113 Chuck, squa re -cut (prim al) 7 9 - 1 0 6
114 Chuck, should er clod 1 5 - 2 1
116A Chuck, chuck roll, tie d 1 5 - 2 1
12 0 Brisket, boneless, deckle o ff 1 0 - 1 2
121C Plate, sk irt steak (diaphragm), outer 2 and up
121D Plate, sk irt steak, inner 3 and up
123 Rib, sh o rt ribs 3 -5
123B Rib, short ribs, trim m ed Am ount as specif ie d
166B Round, rump and shank pa rtially removed, handle on (steamship) 5 2 - 7 0
167 Round, knuckle 9 - 1 3
167A Round, knuckle, peeled 8 - 1 2
169 Round, to p (inside) 1 7 - 2 3
170 Round, bottom (gooseneck) 2 3 - 3 1
170A Round, bottom (gooseneck), heel out 2 0 - 2 8
171B Round, bot tom , outs ide round f la t 1 0 - 1 6
171C Round, eye o f round 3 and up
172 Loin, full loin, trimm ed (primal) 5 0 - 7 0
174 Loin, sho rt loin, shor t-cut 2 2 - 2 6
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175
18 0
18 1
184
185A
185B
185D
18 9
189A
19 0
190A
19 1
193
134
135
135A
136
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PRODUCT NAME
Loin, strip loin, bone-in
WEIGHT RANGE(POUNDS)
1 8 - 2 0
Loin, strip loin, boneless 7 - 11
Loin, sirloin 1 9 - 2 8
Loin, top sirloin bu tt , boneless 1 2 - 1 4
Loin, bottom sirloin butt , flap, boneless 3 and up
Loin, bo ttom sirloin bu tt , ball t ip, boneless 3 and up
Loin, bot tom s i r lo in bu t t , tr i - t ip , boneless , defa t ted 3 and up
Loin, fu ll tende rloin -10
Loin, full tend erloin, side muscle on, de fatted 5 -6
Loin, full tenderloin, side muscle off, defatted 3 -4
Loin, full ten derloin, side m uscle off, skinned 3 -4
Loin, bu t t tend er loin 2 -4
Flank steak 1 and up
Bee f bones A m ount as specif ie d
Diced beef Am ount as specif ie d
Beef for s tewing
Ground beef
Am ount as specifi ed
A m ount as specif ie d
Beef pat ty mix Am ount as specif ie d
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veal Veal is the flesh of a young calf, generally fourto five months old. Because of its young, delicately tender flesh, it is considered by some to be the finest meatavailable. Classical preparations include, but are notlimited to, osso buco, vitello tonnato, cordon bleu, vealpiccata, and veal scaloppine.
Fine veal calves are fed mothers milk or formula.Milk-fed veal is up to twelve weeks old and is believedto have the most tender meat. Formula-fed calves
consume a special diet and are the standard type of vealused today; this veal is up to four months old.
Veal should be selected by color; it should be lightpink in color and tender. The five USDA grades of veal,in order of highest to lowest quality, are Prime, Choice,Good, Standard, and Utility. Because the overall ratio of
meat to bone is less than a full-grown bovine, there areproportionately fewer cuts of veal.
These cuts are from the hindsaddle: 1. bottom round, 2. shank, 3. osso buco, 4. top round cap off,
5. po rtion- cut veal cutlets, 6. trimm ed loin, 7. portion -cut chops
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Bovine Veal Primal CutsSUBPRIMAL COMMON COOKING METHODS COMMON CULINARY USES j
leg primal cut
SHANK Braising, stewing Often prepared osso buco
HEEL Stewing Often prepared ground
TOP ROUND; KNUCKLE;BOTTOM ROUND;EYE ROUND; BUTT
Dry heat saute, roasting, stewing Often prepared as scaloppine, cutlets(V2 in/1 cm), schn itzel [ lA in/6 mm),emince, escalope, and kabobs. Usablet r im of ten used for s tewing or prepared as forcemeat
loin primal cut
TENDERLO IN; SIRLO IN R oa stin g, s au te in g Often prepared as medallions,
noisettes, and as a whole roast
TRIMMED LOIN;SPLIT BONELESS LOIN(STRIP LOIN)
Roasting (bone-in or boneless), sauteing,broiling
Often prepared as chops (bone-in orboneless), medallions, scaloppine,emince, escalope
hotel rack primal cut
RACK; SPL IT CHOP-READY RACK;FRENCHEDRACK
Roasting (bone-in or boneless), broiling,grill ing, sauteing
Often prepared as frenched or crown,chops (bone-in, frenched), and medallions, scaloppine, emince, escalope
square-cut shoulder primal cut
SQUARE-CUTSHOULDER, BONELESS
Roasting (boneless), stewing, b raising Often prepared ground
SHOULDER CLOD Stewing, roasting, braising Often prepared ground
market forms
BREAST Braising, roa sting Often prepared s tuffed, bu t terf lied ,or as bacon
FORESHANK Braising, stew ing Often prepared ground
variety meats (offal)
CHEEKS Braising, stew ing Used in braises and stews
TONGUE Braising, sim m ering Often used in the pre paration o fterr ines
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