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1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3)

1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

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Page 1: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

1.5 Understand how ocean

waves and currents change the

face of coastal areas. (Chapter 3)

Page 2: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

1. Hydraulic Action/Pressure - air being forced into crack in rocks.

2. Corrosion (Solution)

• Minerals such as calcium

carbonate & limestone

dissolve in the water

3. Abrasion

• rock & sand particles

suspended in the water

bump, grind, scrape & gouge

surfaces the water hits

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Hydraulic Action

• Hydraulic action is a form of mechanical weathering

• Caused by the force of moving water currents rushing into a crack in the rockface.

• The water compresses the air in the crack, pushing it right to the back.

• As the wave retreats, the highly pressurized air is suddenly released with explosive force

• Capable of chipping away the rockface over time.

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Hydraulic Action

Page 5: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Emerging vs. Submerging Coastlines

• Emerging • Caused by

lowering water levels and/or rising land level

• Land “springing up after glacier is gone.

• Steep land features, cliffs etc.

• Submerging

• Caused by RISING sea levels

• Were once river valleys now submerged

• Results in more sand from deltas and/or outwash plains

• Lower, gradual slope

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Define the terms

• bay beach

• bay bar

• spit

• (P. 44-45)

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Longshore drift

Page 8: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Longshore drift

Page 10: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Bay Beach • Small beach of

sand found

between two

peninsulas or

headlands

• An accumulation

of sediment

deposited by

waves and

longshore drift

along a bay.

Page 11: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Bay Beach – Bonne Bay

Page 12: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Bay Beach

Page 13: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Spit

• Ridge of sand projecting from the land into a body of water

• usually with a curved seaward end.

• Spit grows in the prevailing direction of longshore drift.

• Ends are curved by the action of waves in different directions

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Spit

Page 15: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Spit

• What can you tell

about the

direction of long

shore drift?

• Is there any

indication a bay

bar might form?

• Sandy Point

Newfoundland!

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Spit - California

Page 17: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces
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Bay Bar • A ridge of mud, sand or

silt extending across a bay.

• Formed when spits stretch across the mouth of the bay

• Notice the spit has closed off the mouth of the harbor/bay

• Would these be a tourist attraction or distraction?

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Bay Bar

Page 20: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Goodyear’s Cove, South Brook, NL. ?

Page 21: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces
Page 22: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Define the terms

• bay beach

• bay bar

• spit

• (P. 44-45)

Are these

landforms

caused by

erosion or

weathering?

Page 23: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Describe how sea caves, sea arches and sea stacks are formed. (P. 48)

• These three coastal structures occur on “emerging” coast lines with steep cliffs & a headland.

• 1st Sea caves form , 2nd sea arches form and 3rd sea stacks form.

Page 24: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Describe how sea caves are formed.

(P. 48)

• Waves strike the

headland first.

• Waves refract around

the headland and put

hydraulic pressure on

the sides of the

headland.

Page 25: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Describe how sea caves are formed.

(P. 48)

• The hydraulic pressure rips away sections of weakened rock.

• Erosion of the weak portions create caves & blow holes in the sides of the headland.

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Describe how sea arches are formed. (P.

48)

• Most sea arches are

formed from the wave

erosion of a headland

where the backs of

two caves have met

and broken through.

• a complete passage

way or tunnel or

“arch” through the

head land !!

Page 27: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Examples of wave erosion formations

• Sea cliffs form when a rocky shore erodes at approximately the same rate throughout an area. This results in a steep walled structure. The cliff moves landward as the waves attack its base.

Page 28: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Examples of wave erosion formations

• Sea caves form when waves attack weak portions of a cliff. The pounding and cutting of the waves on the weak rock cause large holes to be cut from the cliff. Notice the small sea cave in the picture above.

Anthony Island, Trinity Bay

Page 29: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Examples of wave erosion formations

• Sea arches are formed when waves cut completely through a sea cave. This can form a natural arch or bridge.

Cape Broyle

Page 30: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces
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Sea Arch - England

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Sea Arch

Parson’s Pond, Northern Pen., NL

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Examples of wave erosion formations

• Sea stacks are formed when sea arches are eroded through the center causing its middle to collapse. The remaining columns become sea stacks. Eventually the stacks are eroded and they are barely visible above the water.

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Describe how sea stacks are formed. (P. 48)

• Continuous erosion causes the collapse of the ground over the arch.

• This leaves a pillar or column or “STACK” of land standing alone where the headland was.

•Sea stacks are common in eastern

Canada.

•Many have plant growth on top.

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Sea Stack - Harry’s Harbour NL.

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Analyze the processes that result in the straightening

out” of an irregular coastline. (P. 42 questions # 11 &

12) [submerged]

1. Weathering of Headland

• What forces cause the weathering & erosion?

• Hydraulic • Corrosive • Abrasive

2. Transportation of silt

How is silt transported?

Longshore Drift

Waves

Currents

3. Deposition of silt

Where does deposition occur?

Bay beaches; filling inlets

Bay bars; closing off inlets

4.Summary: Submerged coasts straighten due toweathering

And erosion.

Page 39: 1.5 Understand how ocean waves and currents change the face …darrenmcdonald.weebly.com/uploads/1/4/1/5/14159308/... · 2018. 10. 13. · 1. Weathering of Headland • What forces

Analyze the processes that result in the straightening

out” of an irregular coastline. (P. 48) [emerging]

• Emerging coastlines straighten in much the same fashion as submerging coastlines.

• Weathering and Erosion of headlands creates sea caves, sea arches and sea stacks instead of bay beaches, spits & bay bars. However the result is similar in that headlands are reduced in size.

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