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“BEST OVERALL CONSUMER PUBLICATION 2001“ N O. 1 2 3 S P E C I A L I S S U E , 2 0 0 3

18Schooled on KatahdinBig, cold and steep, 5,267-foot Katahdin is New England’s real-dealpeak. In winter, the nearest trailhead is over 15 miles from thesummit. The author, like many other Yankees, learned his alpinelessons the hard way on Maine’s landmark peak.By Dougald MacDonald

30On Cut WingsThe sheer granite that sweeps the East Face of Colorado’s Longs Peakis one of the most dramatic alpine walls in America. With routesranging from steep snow couloirs to 5.13 rock testpieces, it’s one ofthe Rockies’ most popular playgrounds — but few have heard the tragicstory of its first winter ascent.By Dougald MacDonald

44The MountainWashingtonians refer to Mount Rainier simply as “The Mountain” — not just because it dominates the skyline, but because it’s a magnet for weather, tourism and ambition. Everyone who sees Rainier wonderswhat it would be like to stand on top, and most of them give it a shot. By Andy Dappen

56Shasta BlastThink Mount Shasta’s a walk-up? Think again. This glaciated Californiapeak has over 8,000 feet of vertical relief, winds in excess of 200 mphand a cadre of routes and icefalls that will have you reaching for theropes. A pro’s take on the mountain’s top three routes, and what it takesto tackle them.By Doug Robinson

66Chasing the WhaleRising above a hundred square miles of ice, Mount Athabasca haspresence and a rich history, starting with its first ascent in 1898 (justbe glad you weren’t there when the glacier calved off). Pursuing thisgreat white hump means meeting the pleasures and pains of Canadianmountaineering.By Barry Blanchard

76A Grand ExperienceIt’s no coincidence that the biggest names in climbing are linked tothis American icon — the Grand Teton’s golden granite offers some ofthe best alpine rock routes in the world. Making the pilgrimage was arite of passage for this author.By Pete Takeda On the cover: Mount Shasta topo by Mount

Shasta Ranger District, National Forest Service.

This page: Mark Gawry crunching up MountShasta’s Hotlum glacier. Photo by Eric White.

8 | WWW.ROCKANDICE.COM

10 EditorialWhy bother with mountaineering?

12 LettersJeers and cheers from readers.

88 GearDas Boot: Six field-tested, lightweight mountaineering boots. By Tim Neville

96 PerformanceThe best shape of your life. If you’re fit, mountaineering canactually be (dare we say it?) fun. Three pros share their trainingtips for becoming an alpine powerhouse. By Tim Neville

101Field MedicineAvoiding altitude sickness — essential tips from Ed Viesturs. By Tim Neville

103ClassifiedsRock gyms, retailers and more.

28 Arresting behaviorDusting off the good, old boot-axe belay.By S.P. Parker

42 Deep friedYour chances of being struck by lightning aren’t small enough.Boost your odds of survival. By S.P. Parker

54 The Z pulleyCrevasse-rescue essentials every alpinist should know.By Jon Tierney

64 Deep freezeKeep frostbite at bay.By Pete Athans

74 Forecasting in the fieldNine signs of changing weather.By Dick Jackson

86 Taking the plungeLessons in crevasse crossing and assessment.By Eric Simonson

“BEST OVERALL CONSUMER PUBLICATION 2001“ N O. 1 2 3 S P E C I A L I S S U E , 2 0 0 3

Camping below the North Faceof the Grand Teton and MountOwen. Photo by Wade McKoy.

Special Expanded Guide’s Tips


On wobbly legs, I pulled onto the second belay of Simple J.

Malarkey, a moderate three-pitch route at Seneca Rocks, West

Virginia, completing my first lead on a multi-pitch climb. My

belayer, a climbing guide and family friend named Matt, shouted a quick

refresher on anchor construction. A few moments later he joined me

at the ledge and asked if I was ready to lead the final pitch.

At first I didn’t think he was serious: The first two pitches of Simple

J. are barely fifth class, but the third steepens considerably. Unwilling

to say no, I took the rack.

A few moves above the ledge, I made a mistake I’ve repeated many times

in the 20 years since: getting lured off my line by a piece of fixed gear. I

clipped the pin, but when I tried to climb back to Simple J. my arms began

to give out. I looked down for reassurance, but all I could see was the top

of Matt’s helmet — he was already crouching to avoid a collision.

I drew a ragged breath and watched my fingers uncurling from the

stone. Then I swung under the pin in a looping fall.

“Feel like trying it again?” Matt asked tentatively.

I surprised both of us by saying yes. The only distinct thought in my

head, besides a prayer that the pitch would end soon, was that the entire

adventure was so intense, so different from anything in my high-

school sophomore world, that it didn’t seem real.

Today, most rock climbing situations feel pretty familiar. Sure, there

are loads of climbs I can’t get up or am too chicken to try, but few cre-

ate the sense of wonderment that leading Simple J. did.

In the mountains, however, climbing seems new again. Just snow-

shoeing to the top of an easy Colorado fourteener in winter conditions,

or traversing a third-class rock slab with a thin cover of ice in Rocky Moun-

tain National Park, recalls a time when going climbing felt like stepping

into an action movie, one with an uncertain ending. Part of the excitement

stems from the simple fact that I’ve done less mountaineering than pure

rock climbing. The other factor is that the alpine environment changes con-

stantly — in the mountains you never climb the same route twice.

In the past, most climbers learned the sport in an alpine setting.

The typical progression went from un-roped scrambles to following easy

pitches and, eventually, leading technical climbs. Today rock (and,

yes, plastic) climbers often start on short, steep climbs. They instantly

graduate to even steeper ones. Technical standards on rock have sky-

rocketed accordingly. But there is more to climbing — the most diverse

sport I know of — than overhanging rock climbs.

I hope that this issue will stir you to venture beyond cragging and

have an adventure in the mountains. From New England to the Rock-

ies to the Cascades, gorgeous peaks stretch from one coast to the

other. Some of their routes are getting pretty crowded, but others are

still barely climbed. Almost all of these high and wild places offer

opportunities for experiences you might remember for a lifetime.

— Mark Eller

Senior Associate Editor

[email protected]

Beyond VerticalRE-DISCOVERING THE THRILL OF ADVENTURE

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08 :07 :38 am

THE MOMENT.Engaged, committed, focused. The moment when your surroundingsfade away, the moment you becomeone with the action. Chalk up, sinkyour fists, jam your feet — and punchit. The moment is all that matters.


Elitism stinksI was disturbed to read the letter “Crowds in the Cascades” (Let-

ters, No. 121), in which the writer stated, “Overuse is the same old

problem that no one seems courageous enough to address effec-

tively — too many people. Gotta have those votes, subscribers, or

customers or whatever.”

There is too much nastiness packed into these two sentences. Consider:

1. How does one address the problem of “too many people”? Is

the writer speaking of a Chinese population-control solution, or

does he simply mean that everyone except he and his buds should

stay on the tour bus? Am I allowed to expose my three children to

the wonders of our nation? How about if I had 10? Would park vis-

its be rationed differently for those with big families? If a father and

his children drive 200 miles and find that all the day passes are

gone, should they leave?

2. The second sentence implies that Rock and Ice prints these arti-

cles only to make money. Isn’t sharing part of climbers’ motiva-

tions? Introducing others to a wonderful place for the benefit of

the human spirit? How about the aesthetics of a well-written article

and beautiful photos?

The profile in the same issue on Hans Florine (“Taking It Back”)

embodies the attitude of sharing, exploration, competition and good-

heartedness that enriches the human spirit. The author of the letter,

however, exemplifies the more common condition of the spirit as a

lump of coal.

Steve Curtisvia email

Censor soloingI was extremely disappointed with two photos in issue No. 119. The

Exposed photo of Cedar Wright soloing was very disturbing. It is one thing

to write about soloing, quite another to have visuals. This magazine is

splattered throughout climbing gyms with highly impressionable teenagers

who want to emulate the elite climbers and are unable to differentiate

themselves. Also, the picture on page 57 of Bob DeWaard with his rope

wrapped around his ankle — poor technique.

Kim Kirchhoffvia email

Ice screw paradox?I’m confused. In issue No. 121, there is a Guide’s Tip for placing ice

screws that contradicts what I’ve read and what I’ve seen in the field.

The author says that screws should be placed at an upward angle

into vertical ice (i.e. the eye of the screw sits below the teeth). It

seems that this type of placement could cause the threads to rip out

of the ice. Was this tip a mistake?

James Plumptonvia email

Author Craig Luebben replies:

Good question, James. In January 1997, I spent nine days strength-

testing ice screws at Ouray Ice Park and in Boulder Canyon. During

the tests, the screws that were placed teeth-upward into the ice 15 to

20 degrees averaged nearly twice the holding strength of those that

were screwed 15 to 20 degrees downward. Since my tests were conducted

in real ice (which is incredibly variable), they were unrepeatable, and

therefore no big conclusion could be made. But Chris Harmston, who

was then the quality-assurance engineer for Black Diamond, tested

hundreds of ice screws in lab-prepared ice, with similar results regard-

ing the placement angle.

At first, placing screws teeth-upward seemed counterintuitive to me,

too, but with some thought I began to understand the logic. Here is

the simplest analogy I can give you: How do you break a stick? You

bend it sharply across your knee and it snaps. If you bend it in a shal-

low angle across your knee it will not break. Same thing with the ice screw:

A screw placed with the eye higher than the threads is subject to a

much greater bending stress.

There’s also another factor at work here: An ice screw that’s screwed

teeth-downward and fallen on places a huge stress on the surface ice.

With only a little force applied, the surface ice below the screw breaks,

and then you have a screw that’s protruding from the ice, which fails at

a relatively low force. If the screw is place teeth-upward, it spreads its load

over a greater volume of surface ice, so it takes more force to shatter

the surface ice.

Two more things to consider: Though the threads on an ice screw

seem to be fairly small, they wrap several times around the screw and

actually have a significant surface area to resist a pullout force. Plus, at

15 degrees teeth-upward, the pullout force is quite small, and the ice screw

“cams” in its hole. Imagine placing a two-by-four between two sheets

of plywood, with all three pieces of wood angled 15 degrees below hor-

izontal. You can pull down on the protruding end of the two-by-four as

hard as you want and it won’t slide out, because it will cam between the

contacting surfaces.

Today I place most screws 15 or so degrees teeth-upward into the ice.

If the placement goes into bad ice, I choose between four options: Place

it somewhere else, back it up, climb with absolute control or bail. ◆

How to reach us

Send your letters to: [email protected]. Letters may be edited for clarity.

Oops! We inad-vertently omit-ted the photocredit for ourcover image ofLisa Rands, No. 122. Therenowned boulderer Wills Youngwas the talented sharpshooter.

Arkansas’ big boomThanks for the flattering article on America’s best unknown crag-

ging, Arkansas (No. 121). Just wanted you guys to know: We have 41

climbing areas and more are on the way ...Steve BeardenLittle Rock, AR

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EDITORIALPUBLISHER/EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Duane Raleigh > [email protected]

EDITORTyler Stableford > [email protected]

SENIOR EDITOR Alison Osius > [email protected]

SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITORMark Eller > [email protected]

SENIOR CONTRIBUTING EDITORSGeoff Childs, Jeff Jackson, John Long, Doug

Robinson, Pete Takeda, Jon Waterman

CONTRIBUTING EDITORSBarry Blanchard, Andy Dappen, Tim Neville

SUPERTOPO EDITORChris McNamara

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB ACCIDENTS EDITOR

Jed Williamson

AMGA SAFETY REVIEW BOARDMike Powers, Mark Houston

CREATIVEART DIRECTOR

Tracy Martin > [email protected]

PRODUCTION MANAGERQuent Williams > [email protected]

PHOTO EDITORDavid Clifford > [email protected]

PRODUCTION COORDINATORBonnie Hofto > [email protected]

SENIOR ILLUSTRATORJeremy Collins

AMERICAN ALPINE CLUBCORPORATE MEMBER

Western Publications Association Maggie Award Winner

B e s t O v e r a l l C o n s u m e r P u b l i c a t i o n 2 0 0 1

ADVERTISING SALESADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Katrin Laird > [email protected]

ADVERTISING MANAGERRandall Lavelle > [email protected]

CLASSIFIED SALES REPRESENTATIVELisen Gustafson > [email protected]

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Paula Stepp > [email protected]

SUBSCRIPTIONS MANAGERLindsay Brown > [email protected]

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CIRCULATION DATABASE Jo Johnson

BIG STONE PUBLISHING1101 Village Road UL-4D, Carbondale, CO 81623

Telephone: 970-704-1442 Fax: 970-963-4965www.rockandice.com

WARNING! The activities described in Rock & Ice carry a significant risk of personal injury or death. DO NOT participate in these activities unlessyou are an expert, have sought or obtained qualified professional instruction or guidance, are knowledgeable about the risks involved, and arewilling to assume personal responsibility for all risks associated with these activities. ROCK & ICE MAKES NO WARRANTIES, EXPRESSED ORIMPLIED, OF ANY KIND REGARDING THE CONTENTS OF THIS MAGAZINE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY WARRANTY REGARDING THEACCURACY OR RELIABILITY OF INFORMATION CONTAINED HEREIN. Rock & Ice further disclaims any responsibility for injuries or death incurredby any person engaging in these activities. Use the information contained in this magazine at your own risk, and do not depend on the informa-tion contained in this magazine for personal safety or for determining whether to attempt any climb, route or activity described herein.

The views herein are those of the writers and advertisers; they do not necessarily reflect the views of Rock & Ice’s ownership. • Manuscripts, photographs and correspondence are welcome. Unsolicited materials should be accompanied by return postage. Rock & Ice

is not responsible for unsolicited materials. • Please allow up to 10 weeks for the first issue after subscribing or a change of address (to expect continuous service).

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. © Copyright 2003 by Big Stone Publishing Ltd.

Occasionally, we give subscriber names to companies offering products/services in which you may be interested. To remove your namefrom the list, please contact Rock & Ice Customer Service at 1-877-ROCKICE.

2003 DIAMOND BENEFACTOR

Rock & Ice (USPS 0001-762, ISSN 0885-5722) is published 9 times a year (January, March, April, June,July, September, October, December, plus an annual special edition in February) by Big StonePublishing, 1101 Village Rd., Ste. UL-4D, Carbondale, CO 81623. Periodicals postage paid at Carbondale,CO, and at additional mailing offices.

POSTMASTER: send address changes to Rock & Ice, 1101 Village Rd., Ste. UL-4D, Carbondale, CO 81623-1563. Subscription rates are $29.95 per year, $47.50 for two years. Canada and Mexico, add $10 per yearfor surface postage; all other countries add $12.50 per year for surface postage (US funds only). CanadaPost CPM #1368672.


Super Chalk is the first chalk specifically formulated for rock climbing. Our original, best-selling formulation combines the world’s finest magnesium carbonate with our special drying agent, creating maximum absorption and adhesion.Thanks to its dry friction-enhancing formula, it’s like sticky rubber for your hands!

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WHO SAYS CLIMBING DOESN’T PAY?Enter the Rock and Ice Peak Challenge

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The Challenge: Get out and climb. Climbers who gain the most vertical feet in the mountains over six months win atrunkload of gear.

Who Can Enter: Any climber over 18 who resides in the United States. This is an amateur contest please – profes-sional climbing athletes and guides may not enter.

To Enter: Visit www.rockandice.com and register. All participants must register online, and return a signed applicationand agree to the full terms and conditions before they are officially entered in the Peak Challenge. Responding directly to this ad or a subscription card does not constitute an entry in the Peak Challenge. For the terms and conditions, please go to www.rockandice.com

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The dramatic South Basin of Katahdin. Standing in the north-ern corner of Maine, this 5,267-foot summit is 15 miles fromthe nearest trailhead in winter. Inset: Steve St. Martin climb-ing Stairway to Heaven (WI 4+) above Chimney Pond basecamp.

The dramatic South Basin of Katahdin. Standing in the north-ern corner of Maine, this 5,267-foot summit is 15 miles fromthe nearest trailhead in winter. Inset: Steve St. Martin climb-ing Stairway to Heaven (WI 4+) above Chimney Pond basecamp. TOD

D T

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“The importance of usingthe ice axe for self-belay-ing cannot be over-emphasized.” — YvonChouinard

Back in the days of straight-shafted ice tools and obstinatescrews, few climbing books were published, and each newone resonated deeply in my mind. In college in the early

1980s, I’d push aside my history and biology texts and studyclimbing instead. I read about the ice axe as a self-belay inChouinard’s Climbing Ice, but even though I understood thewords, his lesson didn’t take until I climbed Katahdin.

Alpine lessons on Maine’s formidable landmarkBy Dougald MacDonald

PETE

R CO

LE


Katahdin in winter, that is. The

Greatest Mountain, as its Abenaki

name translates, is the highest

summit in Maine. Towering 4,000

vertical feet above the surround-

ing woods, Katahdin is the north-

ern terminus of the 2,160-mile

Appalachian Trail, and its steep

ramparts hold a smattering of fun

summer rock climbs. But it becomes

a “real mountain,” in an alpine

sense, in winter. When the access

road is snowed over, Katahdin is

uniquely remote and forbidding

for the Northeast — it takes two

days of skiing or snowshoeing just

to reach the base of the climbs.

Although the mountain tops

out at only 5,267 feet, much of

the peak lies above treeline, and

its main climbing face, the broad

headwall of South Basin, rises

nearly 2,000 vertical feet. This is

a true alpine north face: shad-

owed, snow-plastered, ominous

and dominated by terrain at that

sketchy standard where you wish

you were belayed but you can’t belay if you want

to finish before dark — where the importance

of the ice axe cannot be over-emphasized.

My goal was the Cilley-Barber route. This WI

4 directissima on the main wall is the signa-

ture winter route on Katahdin, a

near plumb line from the summit

with two bands of steep water ice,

rime-crusted rock and endless step-

kicking. Henry Barber was among

the best climbers in the country in

1973 when he and Dick Cilley made

the first ascent. “It felt really alpine

and we were stretched,” Barber

says today. “We simul-climbed a

lot because we were worried about

not being able to do it in daylight.” At the crux

ice fall, the pair nearly met disaster. “I led the

crux pitch, and above it I pounded my ice axe

about 10 inches into the névé and then rammed

in my alpine hammer,” Barber recalls. “But it was-

n’t really névé; it was a crusty layer only three

or four inches thick. When Dick fell, he pulled

me off my stance and my axe shifted about 20

degrees. Luckily, the sling I had around the axe

cut down into the crust and didn’t yank the

axe out. It was terrifying.”

A few years ago, Californian Andy Selters

and a partner were simul-climbing up the low-

angle ice in the middle of the Cilley-Barber when

one of Selters’ ice tools broke through the ice

to a high-pressure water channel; the result-

ing flood of water and breaking ice sent him

for a 150-footer. An ice screw that Selters had

placed between him and his partner held the

weight of both of them. Amazingly, Selters was

not badly injured in the fall.

During the first couple of days of my visit

to Katahdin, several college friends and

I explored the mountain’s easier routes,

including the Little Chimney, a variation to the

classic Chimney route. This deep gash on the

left side of South Basin’s great wall is actually eas-

ier in winter, when snow covers the giant chock-

stone that gave this route its rep-

utation when it was first climbed

in the early 1900s. At the top, we

cut right across Katahdin’s famed

Knife Edge, a mile-long ridge that,

when covered with snow, may

warrant the use of a rope.

At dusk we collapsed into the

warm comfort of the Chimney

Pond Bunkhouse, a woodstove-

heated cabin with picture-win-

dow views of Katahdin’s entire

alpine face. The fire crackled

steadily as nighttime tempera-

tures dipped down to the usual

below-zero marks.

The next day, snow was falling as

we skied a mile or two over to North

Basin, a broad cirque bordered by

a near-vertical granite wall that is

rarely climbed. Along the way, we

startled a cow moose in thick brush

and learned how difficult it is to

back up quickly up on skis. The flat

floor of North Basin is stark in win-

ter; with only a few stick-like flag

trees poking out of the twisting sas-

trugi snow, all of their branches trailing to the

east, away from the powerful prevailing winds.

“It is not a good thing to look at great walls

for too long a time.”

That was Chouinard again, this

time in Fifty Classic Climbs of North

America, another book I had read

cover to cover shortly before our

trip. As we waited at the Chimney

Pond cabin for high winds to die,

stealing glimpses of the Cilley-Bar-

ber route, the opening lines of the

chapter on Mount Edith Cavell came

to mind. Like us, Chouinard and

his partners had to wait out a storm

below their intended route, and the wall seemed

to grow taller and steeper by the hour. But

Chouinard knew something else about alpine

climbing: Once you get out and try them, most

big faces aren’t as steep as they look. Cracks

appear in the blank sections. The ice is thicker

than at first glance — not always, but more

often than not.

When the weather broke, we climbed short,

steep pitches at the Pamola Ice Cliffs near the cabin

for one more day, hoping the wind-laden snow

slopes would settle a bit. The next day, in dark-

Is this what's meant by climbing a route in good style? HenryBarber starting the crux pitch of the Cilley-Barber route duringthe first ascent in 1973.

This is a true alpine north face:

shadowed, snow-plastered, ominous

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ness, three of us postholed across the deep snow

covering frozen Chimney Pond and up steepening

slopes to the base of the Cilley-Barber. Two pitches

of moderate ice split the initial rock band. My hands

went numb in the cold dawn. Above, brittle, low-

angle ice required constant attention, as we simul-

climbed with the leader trailing two ropes. The ice

seemed too steep for flat-footing, and our calves

burned with the strain of balancing on frontpoints.

As the gully narrowed, a long pitch of steep ice

loomed, the exit guarded by huge ice umbrellas,

formed by wind and rapidly changing temperatures.

The trick was to traverse beneath these roofs, then pass

them on a thin veneer of wind-pocked ice. Peter, our

strongest leader, moved up the ice slowly until, just

below the first umbrella, he hung his pack from an ice

screw to conserve strength. This was the first time

I’d seen anyone do this, but Katahdin was packed

with firsts. It was the first time I had used sleds to

haul gear on an approach, my first time simul-climb-

ing on ice, the first time placing a deadman.

Above the crux, the angle eased and we kicked

steps up shallow snow, mindful of hidden patches

of ice or slippery rock. As the sun went down, the

deep, gloomy gully slipped into full darkness.

Another first: climbing by headlamp. I remembered

one of Chouinard’s dictums for speed (“Avoid ropes

of three”) and suggested we unrope. And then we

were on our own. We moved up the slope in each

other’s steps, a few feet apart, together but not

together. Kick step, plunge axe; kick step, plunge

axe — and try not to think of the dark void below.

Finally, we crested the Knife Edge, very near the

summit. As we passed over the top and began the

long descent down the hikers’ trail, I began to

relax and enjoy the night. The way my nostrils

froze shut for an instant each time I sucked in frigid

air. How little moonlight was needed to navigate

on bright, reflective snow. The crunch of cram-

pons on wind-packed névé. The anticipation of

hot mugs of Ramen noodles at the cabin.

The things I learned that day and night on Katahdin

have served me in the mountains ever since. You

can read all you want about alpine climbing, but it

means nothing until you’re out there doing it and

the lessons sink into your core. On a mountain like

Katahdin, you may have partners but your fate lies

mostly in your own hands. You have to trust your ice

axe, trust yourself.

Dougald MacDonald grew up in Maine and learned

to climb on the crags of New England.

Erik Jacobsen topping out theChimney onto Katahdin's mile-long Knife Edge summit ridge.

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Summer rock routesApproach. Rock routes on Katahdin can be climbed in a day

from the trailhead. The park gate opens daily between 4:30 and5:30 a.m. and only a limited number of vehicles are allowed in. (Onbusy weekends, plan to arrive at the park gate at least an hourbefore it opens or you might not get in.) Park at the Roaring BrookTrailhead and sign the trail register. Hike from Roaring BrookCampground to Chimney Pond. It is 3.3 miles to Chimney Pondwith 1,500 feet of elevation gain over forested moraines.

Water. Water is available at Chimney Pond; be sure to treat it. Unless youare returning to Chimney Pond after your climb (there are several hiking-trail descentoptions from the summit), there is no water along the descent.

Permits. No official permits are required for summer climbs. However, you arerequired to check in with the Chimney Pond ranger, who will want to review your planand gear. He or she won’t care if your name is Reinhold Messner — make sure youhave a helmet and the proper clothing and equipment, or your plan will be nixed.

Guidebooks. Rock Climbing New England, by Stewart Green, The Globe PequotPress. Also, The Maine Atlas and Gazetteer, while not climbing-related, is a thoroughguide to camping and exploring the relatively unknown dirt roads around Katahdin.

Climbing shops. Alpenglow, 36A Main St., Orono, ME 04473, 207-866-7562,acadiamountainguides.com, see retailer listing page 108. Cadillac Mountain Sports,6 Central St., Bangor, ME 04401, 207-941-5670, cadillacmountainsports.com.

Armadillo Buttress (5.7, with variations up to 5.10)The Armadillo is a prominent iron-shaped flake leading right to the south summit.

It involves three to five technical pitches on the upper sections.Vertical gain. 1,700 vertical feet from Chimney Pond.Season. June to mid-September.Clothing and footwear. Sticky-rubber approach shoes or light hikers are fine for the

approach. Bring rock shoes for the pitches. This is an up-and-over route, so you must carryall your gear with you. Katahdin can lash out weather so be prepared for cool temps (40s),

wind and rain. Bottom: lightweight shorts, synthetic tights and lightweight waterproofpants. Top: synthetic T-shirt for the hike in, long-underwear top, fleece vest, midweight fleecejacket, storm shell and a hat. Don’t forget the bug spray in early and mid-summer.

Gear. You can break the route up into short pitches, so the only reason to bring alarger rack is to satisfy the rangers that you have enough gear. They will check your rack.

One 50-meter rope6 or 7 nuts4 to 5 cams, including at least one 4-inch size (a small Bigbro or two saves the

weight of bigger cams)8 to 10 shoulder-length slings2 cordelettes for anchors and emergency rappelsHelmet (required), harness, belay device and 2-3 locking biners per personHeadlampRoute strategy. From Chimney Pond Ranger Station, skirt the pond on the right then

follow the bottom of the obvious drainage into the talus field. If the drainage is dry,it is easiest to walk right in it and avoid the scrub brush. If not, there are variouscairns marking a faint route. You will see a large gully (Cilley-Barber winter route)marked by recent rockfall scars straight above, just to the left of the Armadillo buttress,and the Chimney on the left. Once you emerge from the scrub brush, you can followyour nose just about anywhere on the talus slope. To climb the Armadillo, the rec-ommended start begins just left of the prominent water marks and follows small cor-

Katahdin's South Basin, rising 1,700 feet above Chimney Pond, is one of NewEngland's premier alpine playgrounds. The Cilley-Barber gully and ArmadilloButtress are visible near the center. Inset: a winter view of the Cilley-Barber gullyand Armadillo Buttress (right).

Guide’s beta on climbing KatahdinBy John Tierney

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ners up to a slab with lots of loose remnants. Go up and slightly left into some bushes,aiming for a right-diagonalling crack at a small notch. Make an awkward but well-protected move over this notch. From here, scramble up and right. It is easiest to goup the gully for about 100 yards before moving right, into the scrub trees.

From here you have two choices: traverse right over slabs into Black Gully betweenthe Armadillo buttress and the Flatiron (a buttress several hundred yards to the right),or aim straight for the base of the Armadillo route, ascending a short, left-facing widecrack (5.5) at the base of the buttress. The Black Gully approach gives the option of climb-ing the best pitches of the adjacent Flatiron, rappelling down and then climbing theArmadillo. Scramble (sometimes wet) up the left side of Black Gully until you are levelwith the large broken ledge system that goes all the way around the basin and marksthe base of the Armadillo buttress. Then scramble horizontally left (rope suggested)to reach the start of the route.

There are many variations on the first two to three pitches of the Armadillo. Youcan climb the right or left facets of this ironing-board feature. For the right-side vari-ations (easiest, 5.7), step onto a big ledge on the right side then move back left overthin flakes past a pin and onto ledges at the base of right-facing chimneys. Climb upthe corners and chimneys for 100 feet or so and belay. About two-thirds of the wayup the flake, you can either step left onto the face and climb past old pins to the topof the Armadillo tail or wiggle behind the flake to the left side and follow a well-pro-tected 5.7 finger crack. When it gets hard, step around right to the top of the tail. Allroutes lead to the airy perch atop the Armadillo flake.

Climbing the left side of the Armadillo buttress is slightly harder (5.8) and morecontinuous. In addition to the standard left-side dihedral, there is also a splitter-crackvariation a few feet left (5.9). The rock is excellent on all routes.

From the belay atop the flake, continue up the obvious fist crack past a loose blockand fixed bong, moving slightly left as you near the top of the crack to a large ledge.From here, either stay on the ridge proper or skirt around on the left to gain the ridgehigher up (easier). Follow the sharp ridge to its intersection with the Knife Edge trailand walk right to the summit.

Descent. From the summit, the Cathedral Trail and Saddle Trail provide the fastestreturn to Chimney Pond. The Knife Edge to the Helon Taylor trail is the most scenic,and is highly recommended if you have the time.

The Chimney (5.6)The Chimney is mostly a scrambling route with a brief section of 5.6 rock, and ascends

1,300 feet up the left side of South Basin to gain the Knife Edge. In the winter the routeis actually easier, when snow fills in the brief rock bulge, but beware of avalanches.

Season. June to mid-September for the rock route; anytime through the winter forthe snow route, snow conditions permitting.

Vertical gain. 1,300 feet from Chimney Pond.Clothing and footwear. Sticky-rubber approach shoes will suffice. Rock shoes are

helpful for the short technical section if 5.6 is near your limit. See the Armadillo routedescription for clothing information.

Gear. A light 30-meter rope is adequate6 to 8 small nuts and a few Tri-Cams or light cams4 to 5 shoulder-length slings1 cordelette for anchors and emergency rappelsHelmet, harness, belay device and 2-3 locking biners per personRoute strategy. From the talus on the left of Chimney Pond, skirt high and left into

the base of the obvious cleft. Stick with the main gully (a smaller gully shoots off right)and scramble over easy terrain to the base of the first chockstone. Rope up here.

There are a couple of ways to pass the chockstone, the best being 30 feet outon the left wall. Climb up about 30 feet of loose rock to a pin, then pull overonto a ramp (crux, 5.7). Easier climbing leads up the ramp to an anchor at boul-ders (remember to protect the second). You can also follow a slanting line justunder the left edge of the chockstone (harder). The second chockstone is easilypassed on the left by following a short runnel. Climb the face on the right tomove around the third chockstone, and finish by scrambling underneath thefourth chockstone. You can find more interesting climbing by moving out of thegully onto the rock ribs on the right side between the third and fourth chock-stone. Take care to avoid stepping on the alpine vegetation in the upper sec-tions, as rare plants live there.

Descent. From Chimney Notch, you can cross the scenic Knife Edge to the sum-mit (about a mile) or descend the Helon Taylor Trail to Roaring Brook trailhead.Descending the Chimney route after climbing another route is also a great way to roundout an alpine day.

The view from the summit, looking down at Chimney Pond and the Pamolaice cliffs (below left) and the Chimney, the prominent dogleg snow couloir.

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Cilley-Barber (WI 4)This ice route is Katahdin’s showpiece alpine climb, ascending 1,700

feet from Chimney Pond to the summit ridge.Season. January through March.Approach and time needed. A winter trip to the South Basin of

Katahdin requires at least four days: two days to ski in along the unplowedpark road and up the trail to Chimney Pond, a day to climb and a day to skiout. Begin the ski trip at Abol Bridge on the Golden Road about 20 milesnorth of Millinocket. Follow a marked trail to Abol Beach to the intersec-tion with the Park Road (approximately two miles). Ski the road to ToguePond Gatehouse (approximately two miles) then begin the eight-mile slogtoward Roaring Brook campground.

Although there will probably be a snowmobile track from the rangers,don’t count on it. Save for a few hills, the roadbed is pretty flat, sousing a kick wax on your skis will be faster than using skins. The parkrequires most newcomers to camp at Roaring Brook their first night.Skins are needed for the final 3.3 miles up to Chimney Pond.

Camping. You can stay in a heated bunkhouse ($37 per person pernight, reserve in November), a three-sided lean-to or your tent at ChimneyPond. Whichever, you must bring your own stove and cooking gear. Solidwinter-camping and avalanche-assessment skills are essential. Expecttemperatures from 20 to -40 F, and all forms of precipitation. Avalanchesare common on many routes and the snow can be slow to stabilize. Almostevery year a climber gets caught in a slide.

Permits. A winter permit is required; apply with Baxter State Park atleast two weeks in advance. A minimum party size of four is required,although not everyone has to climb. Maximum party size is 10. At Chim-ney Pond, you will need to satisfy the ranger that you have the ability andgear to climb the route.

Clothing and footwear. Gear list assumes you are staying in the Chim-ney Pond Bunkhouse, not camping outside: Complete winter clothing out-fit, including vapor-barrier socks and extra mittens, hats and socks. Preparefor Alaska-like cold. 10-degree sleeping bag and full-length ground pad.

Heavy-duty touring skis or snowshoes, hauling sled and adjustable poles.Double mountaineering boots appropriate for the approach and the climb.Headlamp with spare batteries, fire-starting material, light saw (required),map and compass. Avalanche transceiver, shovel, and probe pole.

Gear. 50- or 60-meter dry-treated twin or half ropes; two ice toolsper person, plus one spare per team; alpine crampons; eight to 10 icescrews; six to eight shoulder-length slings, quickdraws, and numerouscarabiners; retreat slings or cordelettes; helmet, harness, belay deviceand two to three locking biners per person; bivy sack (required by thepark service).

Water. You’ll need to melt snow for drinking water. In rare cases youcan get water from swift-moving streams.

Route strategy. Winter days are quite short — get an early start fromChimney Pond. The route is the obvious bottom-to-top line just left of thecentral Armadillo Buttress. If the snow is firm and easy to walk on, it willtake about 30 minutes to reach the start of the ice. Begin up WI 3 ice fora pitch, then climb low-angle snow. Another ice band (crux, WI 4) leads toa long finish up variable, sometimes steep snow. Beware of avalanche-proneslopes — you may need to traverse to various parts of the bowl to find safesnow. The topout is on the Knife Edge, just left of the summit.

Descent. The safest descent route crosses the Knife Edge to PamolaPeak and descends the Dudley Trail, avoiding the avalanche-prone slopesof the Saddle and Cathedral trails.

Guidebooks. An Ice Climber’s Guide to Northern New England, byRick Wilcox.

Jon Tierney is an AMGA-certified Rock and Alpine Guide and owner of Aca-dia Mountain Guides Climbing School. The school offers year-round rock,ice and mountaineering instruction and guiding in northern New Englandand destinations worldwide. The school also offers AIARE avalanchecourses, AMGA guide training courses and summer youth camp programs.Contact: 888-232-9559, acadiamountainguides.com.

Circ

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on the first ascent of the

Katahdin’s Knife Edge offers a wildlyexposed but easy alpine traverse.



A nyone who has done a basic snow-climbing course or read Free-

dom of the Hills has seen the venerable boot-axe belay. Guides

utilize this technique frequently, but how useful is the boot-

axe for the recreational climber?

Properly executed, the boot-axe belay is quick to establish and rea-

sonably solid. It’s not for all types of climbing, however, as a high

impact force can overwhelm it, with disastrous results. Here is what

an experienced guide considers when employing this belay technique.

• In most cases, regard the boot-axe as a “low-impact” belay. Only

use it when, worst case, it might have to hold your falling partner on

a low-angle snow slope. Forget the boot-axe if the slope is icy or

steeper than 45 degrees. Also forget about it for belaying across cre-

vasses or bergschrunds, where abrupt, high-impact loads are likely

in a fall. In any instance where a high-impact fall can occur, use a

conventional belay anchored with screws, pickets or deadmen.

• Use the boot-axe belay only in a “dynamic” mode, meaning be sure

that the braking allows your falling partner to slowly decelerate. A

static, locked-off belay like you use rock climbing can generate forces

high enough to rip out your ice axe.

• I often use the boot/axe for belaying a second, and it is most

appropriate for this. It is not recommended for belaying a leader.

Employing the boot-axe belay.• Stomp out a snow platform about two feet square.

• Take your axe, point the pick forward, horizontally across the fall-

line, with the spike near the uphill side of the platform.

• Tilt the head upslope about 10 degrees, and ram the shaft in all

the way to the head. If the snow is so hard you must stomp in the shaft

with your foot, all the better.

• Take the rope and loop it over the head with the climber’s side

under the pick.

• Kick out a solid brace for your downhill foot at a comfortable level.

• Now you have a choice. In soft snow, slide your boot in under both

strands of rope. In hard snow, slide the rope coming out under the pick

(the climber’s side) under the boot and run the belay side strand

across the top of your boot. In very soft snow, keep an eye on the

rope to prevent it from cutting down and running off the end of the

axe. If in doubt, run both strands over the foot. It is crucial, how-

ever, that the rope running over your boot does not cause

an upward pull on the axe.

• To belay, your downhill (outside) hand is the brake

hand; the uphill hand steadies the axe.

• To feed out rope, keep the brake hand loose and

feed rope with the axe hand taking care not to pull

up on the axe or flick the rope off the axe head.

• To haul in rope, temporarily remove your hand

from the head of the axe and use a two-handed pull to bring in rope.

Cross the axe hand over and outside of the brake hand, avoiding let-

ting go of the brake hand.

• In the event of a fall you have to quickly determine the amount

of force that will come onto your belay. But first, if your axe hand is

off the axe, put it back and push down on the axe head. Now, if the

fall is just your partner slipping and the load is likely to be low, quickly

wrap your brake hand and rope around your ankle. But, if your leader

is plummeting down the slope, you may have selected the wrong

belay method. To make the most of that bad situation, relax your

brake hand and grip the rope firmly, but not in a panicked death

grip. Once the load comes onto you, let the rope run and slowly

wrap the rope around your ankle. It helps to count to three slowly,

with the fallen climber being fully arrested when you say three. Hope-

fully, you’ve wisely selected the proper belay method and your fallen

partner will come to a gradual halt.

Originally from New Zealand, S.P. Parker is a resi-

dent of the Bishop, California, area. He is a partner in

Sierra Mountain Center, specializing in skiing, rock climb-

ing and mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. Parker

is a UIAGM/IFMGA certified guide with over 20 years

of guiding experience nationally and internationally.

Contact: 760-873-8526, sierramountaincenter.com.

AMGA.com

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Mount Meeker (left, 13,911 feet) and Longs Peak (14,255 feet),with the Diamond face in plain view.

The tragic first winter ascent ofLongs Peak’s East FaceBy Dougald MacDonald

The tragic first winter ascent ofLongs Peak’s East FaceBy Dougald MacDonald

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With over 120 routes, 14,255-foot Longs Peak, in Colorado’sRocky Mountain National Park,

has more climbs than any other mountain inAmerica. The 1,700-foot East Face aloneholds more than 75 climbs, ranging from5.3 to 5.13, and from easy snow to M7 mixed.Some climbers from nearby Denver and Boul-der count their ascents of Longs in the hun-dreds. “Mr. Everest,” Pete Athans, climbed thepeak every week one winter to train for theHimalaya. Longs is one of America’s bestalpine playgrounds, but it’s also a mountainthat breeds obsession.

In late 1924, Agnes Vaille and Walter Kienerbecame intrigued with the idea of climbingLongs’ East Face in winter. This face had seenits first ascent only five years earlier, and noclimb in America this difficult had beenattempted in winter conditions.

Vaille, from a prominent Denver family,had volunteered as a nurse overseas in World

War I; back home shecontinued a tradition of volunteerism,serving as secretary of the Denver Chamberof Commerce. Vaille was one of the bestclimbers — male or female — in Colorado.She was 44, fit and extremely determined.

In Walter Kiener, Vaille found a partner assingle-minded as she. Kiener had emigratedfrom Switzerland to the United States in1922 at the age of 28. A veteran climber inthe Alps, Kiener settled in Denver and beganexploring the mountains of Rocky MountainNational Park.

Kiener climbed Longs in summer at leastonce before he paired up with Vaille to try theEast Face in winter. (Guidebooks credit himfor a zig-zagging line on the face, but Kiener’sown accounts suggest he never climbed thepopular line now known as Kiener’s Route.)He knew that similar winter climbs had beendone in the Alps; he was driven and, in hind-sight, perhaps overconfident.

With over 120 routes, 14,255-foot Longs Peak, in Colorado’sRocky Mountain National Park,

has more climbs than any other mountain inAmerica. The 1,700-foot East Face aloneholds more than 75 climbs, ranging from5.3 to 5.13, and from easy snow to M7 mixed.Some climbers from nearby Denver and Boul-der count their ascents of Longs in the hun-dreds. “Mr. Everest,” Pete Athans, climbed thepeak every week one winter to train for theHimalaya. Longs is one of America’s bestalpine playgrounds, but it’s also a mountainthat breeds obsession.

In late 1924, Agnes Vaille and Walter Kienerbecame intrigued with the idea of climbingLongs’ East Face in winter. This face had seenits first ascent only five years earlier, and noclimb in America this difficult had beenattempted in winter conditions.

Vaille, from a prominent Denver family,had volunteered as a nurse overseas in World

War I; back home shecontinued a tradition of volunteerism,serving as secretary of the Denver Chamberof Commerce. Vaille was one of the bestclimbers — male or female — in Colorado.She was 44, fit and extremely determined.

In Walter Kiener, Vaille found a partner assingle-minded as she. Kiener had emigratedfrom Switzerland to the United States in1922 at the age of 28. A veteran climber inthe Alps, Kiener settled in Denver and beganexploring the mountains of Rocky MountainNational Park.

Kiener climbed Longs in summer at leastonce before he paired up with Vaille to try theEast Face in winter. (Guidebooks credit himfor a zig-zagging line on the face, but Kiener’sown accounts suggest he never climbed thepopular line now known as Kiener’s Route.)He knew that similar winter climbs had beendone in the Alps; he was driven and, in hind-sight, perhaps overconfident.


In the late fall of 1924, the two attempted the East Face in winter con-

ditions three different times. During the first, in October, Vaille insisted

they try the direct route up Alexander’s Chimney, a popular fall ice climb

today. Kiener painstakingly chopped steps in the water-ice runnels

with his ice axe for hand- and footholds. (Front-point crampons were

not invented until nearly a decade later.) Halfway up, he cut niches in

a wall of ice, probably the water-ice crux of Alexander’s, a near-verti-

cal, 15-foot step that averages around WI 3+ today.

Darkness had fallen by the time Kiener completed the passage.

Then he dropped his ice axe. Fearing that he would pull off the unan-

chored Vaille if he slipped, he untied from the rope, then downclimbed

steep rock and ice to her stance.

The pair’s second attempt, with Carl

Blaurock along, bogged down in route-

finding errors, until another nighttime

retreat ensued. The third try ended in a

blizzard at the base of the wall. Vaille’s

friends and family urged her to stop try-

ing the East Face. It was simply too dan-

gerous in winter, they said. But Vaille

seemed fixated on the climb.

The fourth attempt began on January

10, 1925, as Kiener, Vaille and Elinor Eppich

drove to the Longs Peak Inn, near the trail-

head, arriving at 8 p.m. Instead of spend-

ing the night in comfort, they skied up the

trail through deep drifts of snow, reach-

ing the drafty Timberline Cabin (now gone)

at about 3 a.m. With no sleeping bags,

they dozed in their clothes by a weak fire.

In the morning, at around 11,000 feet,

wind gusted against the cabin and the

temperature hovered near zero. Eppich

argued vehemently against continuing.

But, according to Ferrel Atkins, who inter-

viewed Eppich in 1964, Kiener was insistent. Eppich said that Kiener

“badgered” Vaille into continuing.

For his part, Kiener told contemporaries that, after breakfast, “the wind

ceased and the appearance of the mountain was so magnificent that

every drop of blood in my body anticipated its conquest, with the girls

equally enthusiastic.” In fact, Eppich headed down the trail, but the two

others left for Chasm Lake and the start of the route around 9 a.m.

Dressed in wool, Kiener and Vaille each carried a long wooden ice

axe. They took a short rope, but it’s unlikely they placed any pitons

to protect their climb. Kiener’s rose-colored weather report mentions

“calm and beautiful” conditions as they made their way up the 1,000-

foot Lambs Slide snow gully and across Broadway Ledge, at around

13,300 feet. On the upper face they chose to ascend the Notch Couloir

instead of the rock chimneys of Kiener’s Route.

Theirs was the more obvious line in winter, but hard snow and ice

in the couloir required hours of laborious step-chopping. Near the top

of the gully, the two traversed right across snow slopes and rock shelves,

aiming for the “Little Notch,” a short rock-climbing passage to the

summit. At about 4 p.m., darkness fell. Kiener noted later, “I felt strong

and fit for the remainder of the ascent, (but) I was greatly perturbed

and grieved to know that my companion’s strength was about spent.”

It took them another 12 hours to ascend the final few hundred feet

of the mountain, a section normally covered in less than an hour, even

in winter. Kiener pulled, pushed and lifted the exhausted Vaille across

icy rocks and through waist-deep snow. Somewhere, both lost their

lanterns. The last time Kiener checked his thermometer, the temper-

ature was 14 degrees below zero. They reached the summit at 4 a.m.

on Monday morning.

With clouds moving in, they struggled across Long’s broad summit

toward the North Face, the quickest way off the peak. Kiener was

heartbroken, he said, “when the light of the dawn revealed the features

of my brave companion, for they were those of one who was doomed.”

With their rope stiff and useless,

the two climbers staggered toward

the steepest part of the face. Clam-

bering over a bulge, Vaille slipped

and tumbled about 150 feet to the

base of the slope.

Deep snow at the bottom of the

cliff saved Vaille from immediate death,

but the end was near. When he reached

Vaille, Kiener lifted her to her feet,

and together they lurched another

50 yards. But then, exhausted,

hypothermic and battered from her fall,

she collapsed. As the sun rose and

the wind picked up, she told him she

would rest in the lee of some boul-

ders for half an hour and then try to

carry on while he went for help.

Kiener left her around 10:30 a.m.

and trudged several miles down the

wind-scoured slopes of the Boulder-

field, around Mount Lady Washing-

ton, over Granite Pass and down into

sheltering trees. He reached Timber-

line Cabin at 1 p.m. To his relief, Eppich, who was desperately wor-

ried about the fate of her friends, had already sent a rescue party.

Rather than a trained climbing squad, the rescuers were assembled

from a group of laborers who had been cutting pond ice for use at

Longs Peak Inn. None of them had snowshoes or was dressed for win-

ter conditions. Kiener had been climbing for 28 hours, but he imme-

diately turned around and headed back into the rising storm with

three men, perhaps driven by the knowledge that he had urged Vaille

up the mountain the day before.

One of the poorly dressed rescuers quickly turned back in the face

of blizzard conditions. A second, Herbert Sortland, caretaker of the

inn, headed down just below Granite Pass, at around 12,000 feet.

Kiener and Jacob Christen continued marching up the long slopes

above treeline. Kiener tripped and fell frequently as they struggled

against the wind through snow-covered boulders.

They reached Vaille near nightfall. She had moved a few feet and

turned over to face the snow before succumbing to hypothermia

and exhaustion. Disheartened, the two men turned back. Kiener fell

time after time, and Christen had to yell and shake him to keep him

moving. Soon, Kiener’s eyes froze shut, and he had to be led by the

hand. They finally returned to Timberline Cabin at 7:30 p.m — Kiener

Kiener hadbeen climbingfor 28 hours,

but he immediately

turnedaround and

headed backinto the

rising storm.

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had slept only an hour or two in the past 60 hours, and his hands and

feet were swollen, black and blistered.

At the cabin, they had another shock: The first man to turn back

that day was waiting for them, but Sortland had not returned. There

was nothing more they could do. They built a fire, huddled together

and brushed off the snow that blew

through the cabin’s un-chinked logs.

The next day, Kiener and the oth-

ers headed down to the road. Rangers

mounted a search for Sortland that

afternoon and Wednesday, but the

winds remained high and there was

no sign of the young caretaker. On

Thursday, a party of rangers reached

Vaille’s body below the North Face,

tied it to skis lashed together for an

improvised sled, and carried it down to the road. Sortland’s body

was not discovered until late February. He appeared to have broken

his hip in a fall and died just a few hundred yards from the safety of

Longs Peak Inn.

As a memorial to Herbert Sortland and Agnes Vaille, Vaille’s father ordered

the construction of a simple stone shelter at the midpoint of the Key-

hole hiking trail, the normal route up Longs. The National Park Ser-

vice conducted an investigation of the accident but Kiener was never

blamed — indeed, the official report concluded he had displayed nearly

inhuman stamina and bravery while trying to save his partner.

Badly frostbitten, the Swiss guide lost all of his toes, part of one

foot and several fingers, and he spent months in the hospital.

Trained as a butcher, he would no longer be able to work with his

hands. It may have been in his hospital bed that he made up his mind

to pursue his avocation of botany.

With financial aid from the Vaille

family, he studied at the Univer-

sity of Nebraska, eventually earned

a doctorate on the alpine flowers

of Longs Peak and went on to

become a pioneer researcher in

alpine ecology. He spent many

summers guiding on Longs and

tending the nearby Twin Sisters

fire tower, from which he could

gaze directly at the scene of Vaille’s death.

Paul Nesbit, a guide on the mountain during the 1920s, saw

Kiener on his first return to Longs after the accident, in the sum-

mer of 1925. Nesbit wrote. “He [Kiener] was much elated that he could

still climb mountains. He signed the register, ‘With cut wings, com-

ing over the North Face.’”

Boulder journalist Dougald MacDonald has climbed numerous routes on

Longs Peak’s East Face, in summer and winter.

“He signed the register, ‘Withcut wings, coming

over the NorthFace.’”

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Select routes on Longs’ East Face. Route 1: Lambs Slide to Broadway Ledge to Notch Couloir (IV 5.4); Route 2: Stettner’s Ledges (III 5.8) toUpper Kiener’s (III 5.3); Route 3: North Chimney to The Casual Route (IV 5.10a).

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Boulder climber Eric Doub worked for fiveyears to free The Honeymoon is Over (5.13d)on the vertical granite of the Diamond,naming it for the heartbreaking difficulty ofthe crux moves. In October of 2000, TommyCaldwell finally put the project to bed.


Stettner’s Ledges (III 5.8) to Upper Kiener’s (III 5.3)Combining these classic routes yields a full day of great alpine rock climbing. The climb-

ing on Stettner’s Ledges is reasonably demanding — to ensure the party stays on schedule theleader should be solid on 5.8 ground. As with all routes on Longs, it’s a good idea to be wellaway from the summit when afternoon thunderstorms arrive.

Season. June through September is best. Early season is more likely to be wet fromsnowmelt, especially on the crux of Stettner’s. July and August are the most likely months toexperience severe thunderstorms.

Vertical gain and time needed. From the trailhead to the summit, total gain is 4,850feet. Reasonably fit climbers can complete the route in a long day. It is also common to bivy,usually above Chasm Lake. Tents are not allowed and a bivy permit is required. As with all routeson this face, an early start is recommended. Try to summit by noon, especially if the forecastmentions storms.

Clothing and footwear. Running shoes or lightweight hikers will suffice for theapproach, although you may wish for stiffer soles on Mills Glacier if conditions are firm.Before mid-June (depends on the snowpack) the route usually requires mountain bootswith crampons for the steep snow slopes on Upper Kiener’s and the descent of the NorthFace. For the crack and friction climbing on Stettner’s, most climbers use comfy rock shoes,with socks inside to keep the their feet from freezing. Rain gear is essential, as is warmclothing (fleece top, warm hat and gloves). The sun goes down early in the mountains andtemperatures can drop fast.

Gear.1 rope (A 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) 1 set of nuts1 set of cams from one-half to two inches1 set tcu’s6-7 each quickdraws and shoulder-length runners2 double shoulder slings or cordelettesBivy sacks if staying the night (remember, no tents)HelmetGeneral-duty ice axe (only necessary if the snowpack is high)Water. Available at Chasm Lake and often on ledges. Use a purifier.Route strategy. Start early enough to arrive at the base of Mills Glacier by first light.

Allow three hours from trailhead, or 40 minutes from the Chasm Lake bivy sites. To crossthe glacier without an axe, carry a nut tool in one hand and sharp rock in the other hand.You’ll need an ice axe if the upper routes (including the descent down the North Face) aresnow-covered. Kick steps up the glacier, about 200 feet right of the Lambs Slide couloir,then scramble up broken rock to the highest ledge, beneath the most prominent right-fac-ing dihedrals of the Lower East Face.

Stettner’s can be done in about six 150-foot pitches. Begin in a cold (it stays shadedall day), right-facing corner. Climb two moderate pitches in the corner. On the crux third pitchassorted fixed pins (which can be backed-up with nuts or tcu’s) lead to a steep right-fac-ing corner that widens to a 2-inch crack at its apex. This pitch ends at the aptly namedLunch Ledge.

After topping out on Broadway Ledge, traverse north, past the base of the Notch Couloir, tothe start of Upper Kiener’s. Depending on the snow in the couloir, there are several ways to start:the farther right of the Notch Couloir you go the more difficult the climbing will become. A 10-foot-wide cleft, about 150 feet above Broadway and 50 feet to the right of the couloir, is a goodlandmark to aim for. Where the cleft ends at a vertical wall, head right and climb about 50 feet througha notch to a broad ledge. Above the ledge there are numerous options to surmount the last of thesteep rock pitches (the path of least resistance is about 5.3).

Gain a series of ledges, head back right. An obvious large ledge, below a vertical wall onthe right skyline, is the landmark for an exposed maneuver known as the “step-around.” Aftermaking this move, scramble to the 14,225-foot summit of Longs.

If the upper slopes of Kiener’s are snow-covered, continue on belay (most parties will wantice axes). These upper snow slopes melt-out late and typically consist of either cold, unconsolidatedsnow or snow slabs that, in warm weather, can slide off the grass and rock base. Good rock anchorsexist along the margins of the slopes. A 60-meter rope will make the going quicker.

Descent. The quickest way home from the summit is to descend the North Face Route,aka the Cables Route. This involves one long rappel or two 85-foot raps off the large boltswhich once secured the cables. A long scramble then brings you to the Boulderfield andthe trail down to Chasm View. If you have all your gear with you, head down the trailhome. If you left bivy gear at Chasm Lake, follow the East Ridge to its low point (near arock that vaguely looks like a camel) and scramble east until you can climb into an easygully (the second one you come to). The gully narrows dramatically, then traverses onledges back toward the East Face. Or, take the longer but easier-to-find Keyhole Route (fol-low the red/yellow dots).

Permits. No permit is required to climb. Bivy permits, available at the RMNPBackcountry Office (970-586-1242), are required and strictly enforced. They

must be picked up in person, during business hours.Guidebooks. Rocky Mountain National Park: The

Climber’s Guide, High Peaks, by Bernard Gillett, is themost comprehensive guide. Rocky Mountain National

Park, The High Peaks, by Richard Rossiter, is known forits great topos. Classic RMNP Climbs, by Michael Stevens

and Fred Knapp, is smaller and cheaper than the others and maybe a good choice for visiting climbers.

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Guide’s beta on climbing Longs PeakBy Mark Hammond and Eli Helmuth

Enjoying the fine, thin air onthe oh-so-relaxing Casual Route.


The Casual Route (IV 5.10a)The path of least resistance on this incredibly steep wall, The Casual Route is one of the pre-

mier routes on the Diamond. This is one of the best alpine rock climbs in North America andshould not be taken lightly. The high altitude and frequently stormy weather on the northern-most fourteenerer in Colorado make this a formidable undertaking, even for leaders who reg-ularly climb several grades harder.

Season. June through September is best. Early season is more likely to be wet fromsnowmelt. July through August is the worst period for thunderstorms.

Vertical gain and time needed. You’ll gain 4,850 feet from the trailhead to the sum-mit. The route is commonly done car-to-car in a long day, though a high level of fitness isneeded. It is also common to bivy, usually above Chasm Lake. Alternate bivy sites includeChasm View (a longer hike with your bivy gear and a real drag to retrieve if you don’t top out)and Broadway Ledge. The second option is the best way to get on the route before other par-ties, but it’s also logistically harder, requiring you to climb North Chimney with your bivy gear(not recommended) or to hike to Chasm View and rappel to Broadway. Either way, you’ll be com-mitted to rappelling the wall instead of topping out on Longs Peak. A bivy permit (issued bythe backcountry office) is required.

Clothing and footwear. Running shoes or lightweight hikers will suffice for the approach,although you may wish for stiffer soles on Mills Glacier if conditions are firm. Before mid-Junethe route usually requires mountain boots with crampons for the steep snow slopes on UpperKiener’s and the descent of the North Face. Sections of the route (including the crux) are oftenwet until early July. Wear comfy rock shoes, perhaps with socks inside to keep your feet fromfreezing. Good rain gear is essential, as is warm clothing (at least a fleece top, warm hat andgloves). The face goes into the shade as early as 11 a.m. and temperatures drop fast after that.

Gear.2 60-meter ropes (Hint: A thinner lead rope and a second 7mm rappel line offer a light-

weight alternative to carrying two lead ropes)1 to 2 sets of nuts1 to 2 sets of cams, from one-half to three inches 1 set tcu’s7-8 quickdraws 7-8 shoulder-length runners2 double shoulder slings or cordelettesHelmetEmergency bivy sack (optional)Water. Available at Chasm Lake and often on ledges. Use a purifier.Route strategy. Try to climb on a weekday, and expect company. Hit the base of North

Chimney by first light — you’ll be glad to be off the summit when the afternoon storms roll in.Allow three hours from trailhead or 40 minutes from the upper bivy sites.

To cross Mills Glacier, carry a nut tool in one hand and sharp rock in the other hand toascend the 20-degree snow slopes to the base of the North Chimney. Try to be first to the

chimney in the morning: it’s 700 feet long, 5.5 at the top and loose. Climb the slabs just left ofthe chimney proper until you’re forced into the chimney at a large chockstone. Many parties climbunroped until they reach the last few hundred feet where the terrain steepens. Be very care-ful not to kill others below you with loose rocks. Wear your helmet.

The Casual Route starts just left of the top of the North Chimney, beginning from the BroadwayLedge. The following beta assumes you’re using a 60-meter lead rope — you’ll still have to stretchthe rope to complete some of these pitches. Shorter pitches are described in the guidebooks.

Begin on an easy, broken pillar, stretching the rope to reach the top. A short crack on the left (5.9)leads to the infamous traverse. When you spot a piton to your left, begin a leftward traverse that runsfor 100 feet. Follow the fixed gear and best holds — it’s only 5.7, but the run-outs are serious. Bewareof beginning the traverse too soon, as an unprotected 5.10 traverse often lures parties off route.

Belay at the end of traverse, or at better stance 20 feet higher. The next pitch follows a crack andchimney, past grassy ledges to a sloping slab. Again, belay 20 feet higher than the first stance yousee, this time at a short steep section with pitons. Make sure your belayer has a jacket, as this isa cold stance. Next, climb a steep corner (5.8) with a handcrack that leads 200 feet — trending leftat the top — to the Yellow Wall belay ledge. (You can also belay at stance halfway up the crack.)

The next pitch is the crux. Exit the ledge on its right end and tackle a thin crack (5.9). Movepast fixed gear and into an unprotected squeeze chimney (5.8). (You may want to haul yourpack here; otherwise hang it from your harness on a long sling.) The hardest bit comes a bit higher,at a well-protected but thin bulge. Stepping right makes the move slightly easier.

Belay at Table Ledge Crack, the horizontal system that splits the Diamond. Traverse straight left,then down and left, then up and left, passing fixed gear, until you’re well past the difficulties. From here,you can rappel the face, or continue left around the corner and follow Upper Kiener’s to the summit.

If there’s too much traffic on The Casual Route, consider these worthy options: PerverticalSanctuary (5.10d), is a great climb, but don’t try it without several big cams. Yellow Wall (5.11a)and it’s slightly easier companion, Black Dagger (5.10d), are also very good.

Descent. The quickest way home from the summit is to descend the North Face Route,aka the Cables Route. This involves one long rappel or two 85-foot raps off the large boltswhich once secured the cables. A long scramble then brings you to the Boulderfield and the traildown to Chasm View. If you have all your gear with you, head down the trail home. If you leftbivy gear at Chasm Lake, follow the East Ridge to its low point (near a rock that vaguely lookslike a camel) and scramble east until you spot a down-climb into an easy gully (the secondone you find). The gully narrows dramatically, then traverses on ledges back toward the EastFace. Or take the longer but easier-to-find Keyhole Route (follow the red/yellow dots).

Permits. No permit is required to climb. Bivy permits, available at the RMNP BackcountryOffice (970-586-1242) are required and strictly enforced. They must be picked up in person,during business hours.

Guidebooks. Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber’s Guide, High Peaks, by BernardGillett, is the most comprehensive guide. Rocky Mountain National Park, The High Peaks, byRichard Rossiter, is known for its great topos. Classic RMNP Climbs, by Michael Stevens and FredKnapp, is smaller and cheaper than the others and may be a good choice for visiting climbers.


Lambs Slide is a long, moderate snow and ice climb ascending the left edge of the East Face.

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Lambs Slide to Broadway Ledge to the Notch Couloir (IV 5.4)A fine mountaineering excursion — the line meanders but the climbing is varied and

exposed. Though the technical difficulties are relatively minor, this is a demanding itinerary thatrequires good general fitness and a degree of mountain savvy.

Season. April through early July is best. In the early season, the snow pack is softer andless consolidated. The window for ideal conditions is often quite short — just three weeks in recentyears. Daily thunderstorm activity picks up dramatically after mid-July and stays high until Sep-tember. Route conditions range from a moderate mix of rock, snow and ice to full pitches of steepwater ice in winter. Beware of loose snow avalanches after a storm or during warm weather.

In the summers of 2001 and ‘02, Lambs Slide melted out in July, resulting in frequent rock-falls during the most popular climbing season — it’s a good idea to avoid the couloir alto-gether when this happens.

Vertical gain and time needed. From trailhead to the summit, total gain is 4,850 feet. Rea-sonably fit climbers can complete the route in a long day. It is also common to bivy, usually aboveChasm Lake. Tents are not allowed and a bivy permit (issued by the backcountry office) is required.

Allow three hours for the approach — more if you’re carrying an overnight pack. Try tosummit by noon, especially if the forecast mentions storms.

Clothing and footwear. You’ll want sturdy, but comfortable, climbing boots for the cramponingand step-kicking on this route. Bring gaiters and waterproof gloves to keep the snow out, plus raingear and warm clothing (at least a fleece top and a warm hat, even in high summer).

Gear. 1 rope (A 60-meter length is best, but 50 meters will suffice) 1 set of nuts1 set of cams from one-half to two inches1 set tcu’s2 to 4 long ice screws 7 quickdraws 7 shoulder-length runners2 double shoulder slings or cordelettesCramponsGeneral-duty ice axe (60-70cm length)HelmetEmergency bivy sack (optional)Water. Available at Chasm Lake and often on ledges. Use a purifier.Route Strategy. The climbing begins at a 1,000-foot couloir on the left side of the Mills Glacier,

known as Lambs Slide. Lambs Slide is often soloed by experienced teams; if you’re setting anchors,the right side of the East Face affords the best possibilities (screws work well when the snow meltsout.) After ascending Lambs Slide for about 800 vertical feet, you’ll gain an obvious ledge system thatbisects the East Face of the mountain. This is Broadway: traverse right along it on mostly mellow, snow-covered terrain. The angle of this “easy” traverse can reach 55 degrees; with 1,000 feet of air belowyour feet, it’s a good idea to belay the entire traverse from solid rock anchors.

Keep to the middle or upper parts of the ledge system and continue traversing for four longpitches, until you reach the Notch Couloir. From here it’s straight up the couloir for five to sixpitches of step-kicking and cramponing on névé snow (up to 50 degrees). Rock anchors canbe found along the margins of the gully. If warm weather turns the snow to mush it’s prefer-able to exit via the upper pitches of Kiener’s Route.

The Notch itself is precarious; from this small saddle the route either descends to the westor continues along the south ridge via a 5.4 chimney (The Stepladder), which leads to the third-class summit ridge.

If you opt to descend to the west before continuing to the summit, a half-rope rappel fromThe Notch (or downclimbing on third-class terrain) deposits you on Clark’s Arrow at about the13,600-foot elevation mark. Follow Clark’s Arrow to where it joins the Homestretch section ofthe popular Keyhole Route. A short scramble up the Homestretch leads to the summit.

Descent. The quickest way home from the summit is to descend the North Face Route,aka the Cables Route. This involves one long rappel or two 85-foot raps off the large boltswhich once secured the cables. A long scramble then brings you to the Boulderfield and the traildown to Chasm View. If you have all your gear with you, head down the trail home. If you leftbivy gear at Chasm Lake, follow the East Ridge to its low point (near a rock that vaguely lookslike a camel) and scramble east until you spot an easy gully (the second gully you come to). Thegully narrows dramatically, then traverses on ledges back toward the East Face. Or, take thelonger but easier-to-find Keyhole Route (follow the red/yellow dots).

Permits. No permit is required to climb. Bivy permits, available at the RMNP Backcoun-try Office (970-586-1242), are required and strictly enforced. They must be picked up in per-son, during business hours.

Guidebooks. Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climber’s Guide, High Peaks, by Bernard Gillett,is the most comprehensive guide. Rocky Mountain National Park, The High Peaks, by RichardRossiter, is known for its great topos. Finally, Classic RMNP Climbs, by Michael Stevens andFred Knapp, is smaller and cheaper than the others and may be a good choice for visiting climbers.

Eli Helmuth and Mark Hammond are AMGA-certified guides for the Colorado Mountain School,the sole guide service in Rocky Mountain National Park. Contact: 888-267-7783, cmschool.com.

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A sk any guide what scares him or her most in the moun-

tains, and lightning will rank right up there with ava-

lanches. Even the best climbers are paranoid about getting

up and back down a route quickly. And you should be, too.

Once a lightning storm catches you, you can do nothing but

ride it out and swear to God that if you survive just this once

you will never skip church on Sundays again.

Try to avoid it• Check the weather forecast. If storms are expected, adapt. Choose

a shorter climb; get up and down quickly; or just don’t go.

• In some places, such as the Rockies in midsummer, you can

just about set your watch by the storms letting loose in early

afternoon. Get out of bed early, skip that second latte, eat cold

cereal. Do anything to avoid being out there when storms arrive.

If it’s comingOK, despite your efforts, the cumulonimbus clouds are building, and

thunder rumbles in the distance.

• Is it cloud-to-cloud lightning or ground strikes? The latter are serious.

• Is the cell moving toward you? Count the time in seconds between

the lightning and the thunder. Then divide by five to get the distance

in miles. If you see lightning but do not hear thunder, the storm is prob-

ably more than 15 miles away.

• Get going. Get off the ridgelines and the summits. Fix a rope,

leave cams, get it all later. Just lose elevation as fast as you can.

• If rappelling, consider using a prussik, ascender or other backup

(some devices are specifically designed for this use) in case you are struck

on the way down. You might survive the strike only to lose control and

fall to the ground.

If you are in it• Do not stand directly under a tree. If lightning strikes it, the cur-

rent may jump to you.

• You can gain protection from a direct strike by approach-

ing some other tall, solid object. You are protected for

a horizontal distance equal to the object’s vertical

height, and starting from the center of the object.

But you are not protected from ground current orig-

inating from a strike elsewhere.

• Do not get under an overhang. You will be exposed to ground

current. Sitting in a cave, you are essentially spanning the gap between

the electrodes of a spark plug. A current jumping the gap may use your

body as a path.

• Get up on a block or boulder (but not so high that you are a

high point). Ground current will not travel upward into you. Sit on a

pack or pad for more insulation.

• If you are on a ledge, tie yourself in but move away from the

main wall.

If the worst happens If someone has been struck:

• Use CPR. Get the person breathing. The heart may go into fibrillation

but can reset itself.

• Cool down burns with water, and bandage them as best you

can. Get down and to a hospital.

Originally from New Zealand, S.P. Parker now lives in the

Bishop, California, area. He is a UIAGM/IFMGA certified

guide and a partner in Sierra Mountain Center, offer-

ing guided climbs in the Eastern Sierra and elsewhere.

Contact: 760-873-8526, sierramountaincenter.com.

AMGA.com

Deep friedYOUR CHANCES OF BEING STRUCK BYLIGHTNING AREN’T SMALL ENOUGH.BOOST YOUR ODDS OF SURVIVAL.By S.P. Parker

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Sunrise above the clouds on the Disappointment Cleaver route.

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A number of years ago, Allison, my seven-year olddaughter, stood at a roadside viewpoint andinspected the 14,410-foot summit of Mount

Rainier, Washington’s highest peak. “It’s not that far to thetop,” she announced. Allison was determined to become theyoungest girl to stand on top of Rainier, a plan she con-cocted without overt pressure from her father. I let her baskin imagined victory — there was no need to deflate her con-fidence. The mountain could take care of that all by itself.

Rainier — The Mountain, as Washingtonians call it — didjust that. Allison ran out of steam about 2,500 vertical feetbelow the summit, crying with disappointment. On our wayhome, she surveyed the peak with newfound respect. Shecould now appreciate the scale of the snowfields leading tothe high camp at Camp Muir, picture the wooden balancebeams that span crevasses on the Cowlitz Glacier and recallthe void of the Ingraham Glacier, where I had swung her bythe harness to a friend’s arms.

From hot-shot alpinists to seven-year-olds,few can resist Mount Rainier’s magnetism.By Andy Dappen

As we continued home, I assured Allison that she wasn’t the only climber

who’d been forced to accept defeat on Rainier. Between western Wash-

ington’s stormy weather, which can feel downright arctic on the upper

slopes, and the altitude — Rainier is only 85 feet shy of being the

tallest peak in the Lower 48 — many climbers turn tail. Of the 11,326

people who registered to climb in 2002, just 45 percent summitted.

My personal stats with Rainier are even worse than the Park Service

average. Being local, it’s easy to say “pass” when conditions conspire

against you. Unfortunately, out-of-staters frequently feel more pres-

sure to pick the plum of their pilgrimage. They’re apt, for example,

to push up Liberty Ridge when they shouldn’t — one reason why ava-

lanches sweep ill-placed climbers off the route onto the Carbon Glac-

ier nearly every year.

I once tried making the 9,000-vertical-foot push from Paradise Visitor’s

Center to the summit in a day. At 13,000 feet, my partner, who

once guided on Rainier but who hadn’t ventured out of the

lowlands for a year, begged to descend before the alien claw-

ing at the inside of his skull found its way out. The following

year, a much-photographed skier and I headed up the Fuhrer

Finger, one of the mountain’s best ski-descent lines. He looked

like prime rib in the photos inside his leather portfolio, but by the

time we reached our 9,500-foot basecamp he was barely stew meat.

If you’re persistent, the mountain will relent, but it may do so with

twists of plot. Recently, I topped the peak in an effort to bag the longest

ski run in the country — from the summit to the Nisqually River, Rainier

delivers a world-class 10,600-foot drop. That’s two vertical miles of

skiing! We shoved off the summit at 1:30 p.m., a time climbers might

find recklessly late. We estimated the late departure would leave the

45-degree crux at 11,000 feet soft enough to ski, firm enough not to

slide. The crux was, in fact, in perfect shape. It was the “easy” upper

slopes that had us loading our underwear. The pitch was no more

than 25 degrees, but the initial 2,000-foot run was mantled in such bul-

letproof ice that we could barely set an edge. A slip here might have

sent us flying, Gore-Tex over teakettle, into one of a hundred crevasses

capable of swallowing a jumbo jet.

At 13,000 feet, my partnerbegged to descend before thealien clawing at the inside of hisskull found its way out.


Mount Rainier, crown of the Cascades, from the east.The Emmons Glacier route is marked.

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Rainier’s landscape is dominated by glaciers: Six major rivers of ice (the

Emmons, Ingraham, Nisqually, Kautz, Tahoma and Winthrop glaciers)

flow from the summit plateau and bulldoze deep trenches into the fri-

able lavas forming the mountain’s strato-volcanic foundation. Cirque gla-

ciers, fed by awesome avalanches thundering down the mountain’s steeper

headwalls, are a second form of glacier on Rainier. Finally, “inter-glaciers,”

fed by the deep snows accumulating on the mountain’s mid-level slopes,

occupy most of the remaining ground. In total, Rainier is ringed by 25

named glaciers whose combined surface area is 34 square miles.

With all that elevation, all that mass and all that ice, Rainier is a

unique objective in the Lower 48. But let me be honest about the

climbing on The Mountain. Getting up this snow-covered rubble heap

is less about poetry than it is about pain and penance. When you get

down to the grit of climbing Rainier, know that many of the routes, includ-

ing two listed below (Emmons Glacier and Disappointment Cleaver)

can be scaled with virtually no technical ice-climbing skills.

Instead, fitness, acclimatization, glacier-travel techniques, and

all-around mountain know-how is what gets you safely there

and back. The two other climbs listed below (Liberty Ridge and

Ptarmigan Ridge) require a marriage of these baseline skills with

— hallelujah! — some actual climbing skills.

Despite the fact that climbing this ice-smothered hump often pro-

vides more sticks than carrots, there’s a magnetic quality to this moun-

tain. It’s a visual magnet for the Northwest (looming 8,000 vertical feet

over neighboring peaks), it’s a snow magnet (sucking 45 feet of it out

of the sky each year), it’s a status magnet (“yeah baby, I’ve climbed the

big hump — wanna see the sleeping bag I used?”) and it’s an opportunity

magnet (climbers, skiers, hikers, snowshoers, photographers and tourists

all want to see it). People visiting Washington have a hard time staying

away. That’s why the 368 square miles around the peak were estab-

lished as a National Park as far back as 1899. And that’s why, a hundred

years later, even seven-year-olds dream of climbing the giant.

Contributing Editor Andy Dappen lives in the shadow of the Cascades in

Wanatchee, Washington.

Getting up this snow-covered rubble heap is less about poetry

than it is about pain and penance.


Emmons Glacier (II, Class 2-3)Also known as the Schurman Route, this climb follows its namesake, the moun-

tain’s largest glacier, to where it intersects the Winthrop Glacier, and continues tothe Columbia Crest. Though not technically hard, the climb demands endurance andmountain savvy. Study your maps, and stick to your schedule.

Season. The route can be climbed in every season, but access to the trailhead iscomplicated by road closures from late fall to late spring, depending on snow condi-tions and other factors. The typical climbing season begins in mid-May and lasts untillate September. During this time, the condition of the route varies greatly. The best andmost predictable weather lasts from late June through the middle of August.

Vertical gain and time needed. Climbers ascend 10,000 vertical feet from theGlacier Basin trailhead (4,400 ft) to Columbia Crest (14,410 ft). While single dayascents are not unheard of, most parties allot two to four days for their trip.

Clothing and footwear. Be prepared for extremely adverse weather, includingviolent winds. Top-quality leather or plastic climbing boots are required equipment. Here’sa brief list of other items you’ll want with you: Down or synthetic jacket, windproofshirt and pants, fleece sweater, wool or synthetic base layers, hat, quality socks,mountain gloves and back-up mittens, goggles or other eye protection.

Team Equipment. 50-meter glacier rope (8.6 - 9.8mm), 4 snow pickets per party (twoeach for the first and last climbers on each rope team), 50-75 wands, four-season tent,shovel, stove.

Personal Gear. Belay device, lightweight pulley, prussiks, 6 carabiners, 3 singlerunners, 3 locking carabiners, 2 screws (at least one each for the first and last climberson each rope team), general-duty ice axe, alpine crampons, harness (sized large enoughto fit over your clothes), helmet.

Water. It’s not hard to find running water on the approach, just be sure to treat itwith a mechanical or chemical purifying system. The last place to find running wateris usually found between the Glacier Basin Camp and the terminus of the Inter Glac-ier. After that, you’ll need to melt snow (don’t assume the snow at Camp Schurmanis clean).

Route strategy. Your tactics will depend on the length of your trip and which highcamp you receive a permit for. The most likely strategy is based on a two-day tripwith a permit to stay at Camp Schurman, the largest and most comfortable of thehigh camps. Schurman is also home to the greatest upper-mountain informationresource, the climbing rangers.

Plan to be at the Glacier Basin trailhead by sunrise. Follow this trail through oldgrowth forests to Glacier Basin Camp at 6,000 feet (also a good spot for acclimitiz-ing.) Depending on snow conditions, climbers can either continue up the valley on thesoutheast side of the moraine, or hike the moraine proper. Because of the fragilenature of the alpine environment and the volume of climbers, it is imperative thatclimbers do not travel off trail unless there is a significant amount of snow coveringthe ground.

Rainier from the south, with the standard route, Disapointment Cleavermarked. Inset: Climbers playing Chutes and Ladders on the route.

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Guide’s Beta for Mount Rainier

Guide Services. At press time the Park Service had not yet announced whichagencies would be awarded permits for various routes on Mount Rainier in 2003.Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated previously held the vast majority of permits,but the distribution may be spread more evenly this year. Consult the following agen-cies to learn which routes they will guide: Alpine Ascents International (206-378-1927, alpineascents.com); American Alpine Institute (360-671-1505, mtnguide.com);Cascade Alpine Guides (800-981-0381, cascadealpine.com); Mount Rainier AlpineGuides (360-569-2889, rainierguides.com); Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated(360-569-2227, rmiguides.com).

CROSSING GUIDE.

committed to the core®

Social climbers; Hector Bianchi lends a hand on the Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina. Photo: Michele Bianchi

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Rope up at the base of the Inter Glacier; in the early season, the glacier terminuswill be difficult to detect. In this case, rope up just before the noticeable increase ingrade. While the Inter Glacier appears to be relatively benign, keep in mind that peo-ple regularly slide into deep crevasses here.

Climb up and left from the base, toward the only rock outcropping on the glacier.You’ll eventually arrive at Camp Curtis, which is located on Ruth Ridge. Look forcairns (sometimes obscured in the early season) leading down the south side of RuthRidge to the Emmons Glacier.

Head for Camp Schurman, located at the base of Steamboat Prow. Parties stay-ing at Camp Schurman have two good reasons to camp on the snow rather than onthe rocky platform: wind and mice. After setting up camp, climbers should take timeto examine the route and talk to the rangers about current conditions. It is a good ideato ask them where it is best to surmount the bergschrund, as it is not uncommon forthe ‘schrund to run a half-mile or longer. Try to be in your bag before 6:00 p.m. — thehardest day is still before you.

It is common practice for parties to begin climbing at 1:00 or 2:00 a.m., though fastteams may leave a bit later. The summit is still a vertical mile away, so set your pace accord-ingly. A good rule of thumb is to ascend at a rate no slower than 12 feet per minute.

The route ascends to Emmons Flats, an alternative high camp located at 9,800feet, where it takes a southerly course toward The Corridor, so-named because thissection of glacier is almost devoid of crevasses. You’ll enter The Corridor at about 10,000feet and follow it to The Bowl at about 11,200 feet. Continue up The Bowl and exitwhere the rangers suggested. The route usually follows the bergschrund to the sad-dle between Liberty Cap and Columbia Crest. After finding an appropriate place tocross the bergschrund, continue directly up to the crater rim. Once on the crater rim,parties can un-rope for the final short walk to the summit.

Descent. Descend the route, but don’t be surprised if newly opened crevasses forceyou to modify your course. On one trip, my party was surprised to find a 120- by 40-foot crevasse had opened while we were on route, and our tracks went straightthrough the middle of the opening!

On a three-day trip, you may want to stay an extra night on the mountain and

Head down and legs churning — a commonpose on Rainier’s upper snow slopes.

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break camp early the following morning. If, on the other hand, you only planned fortwo days, pack up your gear and descend the 5,000 feet back to your car.

Permits and fees. Climbing permits are required and cost $15 per person. Theycan be obtained at the White River park entrance. For an additional fee, reservationscan be made up to 60 days in advance. It also costs $10 per car to enter the park.Information for Mount Rainier National Park can be found online at nps.gov/mora.The phone number for the White River Ranger Station is 360-569-2211.

Guidebooks. Mount Raininer: A Climbing Guide, By Mike Gauthier; ClimbingMount Rainier, by Fred Beckey and Alex Van Steen; Selected Cascade Climbs, Vol. 1,by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield.

— By Rob Veal, guide for Cascade Alpine Guides (800-981-0381, cascadealpine.com).

Disappointment Cleaver (II, Class 2-3) This is the most popular route on Rainier, but don’t underestimate it: The technical

challenges do not ease until the route is within a few hundred feet of the top. Substantialrockfall potential exists throughout the year, especially on the lower portions of the route.The ability to move quickly and remain agile on 30- to 40-degree slopes is important.

Season. July through September are the most popular months. Avalanche hazardsare often highest in the early season (late May through June), particularly on thelower sections of the route. Many climbers choose the Ingraham Direct instead atthis time. As the season progresses, crevasses become more obvious and the routegets “kicked in,” but rockfall is also more frequent.

Vertical gain and time needed. Disappointment Cleaver covers 9,000 feet andgenerally takes two to three days to climb. The final push from Camp Muir to thesummit usually requires six to seven hours.

Clothing and footwear. Be prepared for extremely adverse weather, including vio-lent winds. Top-quality leather or plastic climbing boots are required equipment.Here’s a brief list of other items you’ll want with you: Down or synthetic jacket, wind-proof shirt and pants, fleece sweater, wool or synthetic base layers, hat, quality socks,mountain gloves and back-up mittens, goggles or other eye protection.

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Gear. Use list from Emmons Glacier description.Water. There’s usually no running water past Pebble Creek. All creek water should be

treated with a chemical or mechanical filter. Plan on melting snow for water above this spot. Route strategy. Day one begins at Paradise Visitors Center (5,400 feet), on the south-

west side of the Park. A four-and-a-half-mile trek leads past Pebble Creek (7,200 feet)to Camp Muir (10,100 feet). The hut here accommodates 20 people, but camping is gen-erally a more pleasant option

On day two you’ll cross the Cowlitz Glacier, ascend through Cathedral Gap (10,500feet) and eventually reach the Ingraham Glacier. (Ingraham Flats provides a traditionalresting spot at 11,100 feet.) Accessing Disappointment Cleaver is one of the more dan-gerous portions of the route, so be on guard for icefall and rockfall hazards. Careless climbersoften endanger themselves and others by moving slowly across the steep slopes here.

The decision between climbing the spine or the flanks of the Cleaver should bebased on snow cover and the number of other parties. Climbing the rock spine may bewise if the snowfield is busy. Steeper slopes leading off the top (12,300 feet) of theCleaver climb through the upper Ingraham Glacier to the rim of the East Crater on top.A short hike across the crater leads to the Columbia Crest summit (14,411 feet).

Descent. The descent retraces the route and requires about half of the time ofthe ascent, typically three to four hours. Most parties return to Camp Muir and descendto Paradise in one day.

Permits and Fees. Climbing permits are required and cost $15 per person. Theycan be obtained at the White River park entrance. For an additional fee, reservationscan be made up to 60 days in advance. It also costs $10 per car to enter the park.Information for Mount Rainier National Park can be found online at nps.gov/mora.The phone number for the White River Ranger Station is 360-569-2211.

Guidebooks. Mount Raininer: A Climbing Guide, By Mike Gauthier; Climbing

Mount Rainier, by Fred Beckey and Alex Van Steen; Selected Cascade Climbs, Vol. 1,by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield.

— By Alex Van Steen, a veteran guide with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated(888-892-5462, rmiguides.com). Alex co-authored the first Rainier-specific route guidewith climbing legend Fred Beckey.

Liberty Ridge (II, Class 3) Climbers often label this route “easy” because of its popularity, but such underes-

timations have resulted in tragedies. Liberty Ridge deserves respect. Climbers mustbe exceptionally fit and technically adept, especially as the route becomes more pop-ular and hence more crowded.

Season. May through July are the most popular months. The average slope angle(40 degrees) warrants constant attention to avalanche hazards. Rockfall is a primeconcern in summer, especially during the last several dry years.

Vertical gain and time needed. The climb covers 10,000 feet, and typically takestwo to three days.

Clothing and footwear. Liberty Ridge is a cold and windy north-facing route. Thelong approach and the technical climbing call for a versatile plastic or composite boot.The difficulty of retreat from high on this route, especially when multiple parties areclimbing, warrants clothing that supports bad weather survival or an extra night out.

Gear. Use list from Emmons Glacier plus these items:4 ice screws (6 total)4 single runners1 set of nutsExtra general-duty ice axe (2 per climber)

Rainier's wild north side, showing the Liberty Ridge (center) and Ptarmigan Ridge (right). The Emmons Glacier route ascends the left skyline.

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Water. Running water is hard to find beyond Glacier Basin. Streams encounteredon the first few miles of the approach are usually viable, although those emanating fromthe Inter Glacier will be silty. Running water should be treated with a chemical ormechanical filter. Higher on the mountain, plan on melting snow for drinking water.

Route strategy. Day one usually begins at White River Campground (4,400 feet) onthe east side of the park. Hike the 3.3-mile trail to Glacier Basin Camp (6,000 feet).Head over St. Elmo Pass (7,400 feet) and drop onto the WinthropGlacier, first crossing it and then maintaining a 7,200-foot tra-verse across lower Curtis Ridge. A standard camp hereallows climbers a bird’s-eye view to map out a routethrough the convoluted Carbon Glacier.

Day two negotiates the Carbon Glacier and climbs the lower sectionof Liberty Ridge. Climbers generally access the lower crest of the ridgefrom the east flank several hundred feet above its base. This can be aneasy walk, or a tricky loose-rock scramble, depending on the year. Con-tinue along the west flank of the crest to a high camp at the base ofThumb Rock (10,775 feet). These 35- to 40-degree slopes are generallysnowy, but they turn icy as the season progresses.

Day three climbs the remaining 4,000 feet and descends the Emmons-WinthropGlacier route. This is a long day, especially if other parties are on the route, causingdelays. Leaving the Thumb Rock camp requires climbers to negotiate a rock or icestep (crux) of a few hundred feet, or to avoid the step via exposed traverses either tothe east or west of the step. In general, the snow and ice slopes don’t get muchsteeper than 40 degrees, but the exposure is constant, providing for thrilling climbing.The exit off of the ridge proper and onto the Liberty Cap Glacier often entails a shortsteep section (60 to 70 degrees) or a long bergshcrund-circumventing traverse to thewest, to access the Liberty Cap summit (14,112 feet).

Descent. Most parties descend via the Emmons-Winthrop Glacier. It is not recommendedthat you try to descend Liberty Ridge.

Permits and Fees. Climbing permits are required and cost $15 per person. Theycan be obtained at the White River park entrance. For an additional fee, reservationscan be made up to 60 days in advance. It also costs $10 per car to enter the park.Information for Mount Rainier National Park can be found online at nps.gov/mora.The phone number for the White River Ranger Station is 360-569-2211.


— Alex Van Steen, RMI.

Ptarmigan Ridge (IV 5.8 WI 2 9,500 feet)Rock bands and brief sections of steep ice provide technical climbing challenges

on this fine ridge climb on the northwest flank of the mountain. This climb is becom-ing more popular, but it’s usually less crowded than Liberty Ridge.

Season. Early-season ascents in May and June tend to be technically the easiest,both in terms of route finding and technical climbing, but avalanche hazards are high-est at this time. June through August generally provide more stable conditions. Theend of August, when hard, icy slopes, rockfall and crevasse difficulties intensify, usu-ally marks the end of the season.

Vertical gain and time needed. The route ascends 9,500 feet and generallyrequires two to three days.

Clothing and footwear. Ptarmigan Ridge is a challenging undertaking on a coldand windy mountain. The long approach and the steep climbing call for a versatileleather or plastic boot. Because of the difficulty of retreat from high on this route,clothing should support bad weather survivability or an extra night out: A down parkaand bivy sack provide a minimum amount of emergency protection.

Gear. Use list from Emmons Glacier plus these items:4 ice screws (6 total)4 single runners1 set of nutsExtra general-duty ice axe (2 per climber)Water. Depending on the time of year, you may find running streams on the

approach — be sure to treat water with a chemical or mechanical purifier. Bring a reli-able stove for melting snow.

Route strategy. The technical challenges do not ease until very high on the route.Accidents have occurred when climbers underestimated the icy, low-angle slopes onthe upper mountain, or were not able to negotiate the traverse off of Liberty Captoward their descent route in white-out conditions. Be familiar with the varied routealternatives and topographic maps.

Day one begins at Mowich Lake (4,930 feet), in the northwest corner of the park.Hike about three miles toward Spray Park, leave the trail near 6,400 feet and ascend-ing to the saddle between Echo and Observation Rocks. Continue climbing along thewestern edge of the Russell Glacier to the high camp at 10,200 feet.

Day two presents most of the technical climbing difficulties. Begin by scurryingwest across the narrow head of the North Mowich Glacier and traversing downhill beneaththe Liberty Cap Icecliff to access a bergschrund. Cross this and begin a long, leftwardascent up a 45-degree slope. Climb to a large rock band atop the slope, traverse left

to a steep snow apron (50 to 55 degrees) and continue to the base of the finalrock buttress at 12,200 feet. Continue left beneath this but-

tress and onto the Liberty Cap Glacier via a steep icy pitch(55 degrees or better). The gradient eases near the sum-mit (14,112 feet). Numerous other route variations exist.

All are technically more difficult and require additional time.Several may require moderate fifth-class rock or ice skills.Descent. Most parties descend via the Emmons-Winthrop Glac-

ier or Disappointment Cleaver routes. Since neither returns you toMowich Lake, many parties leave a vehicle there on the way in.

Permits and fees. Climbing permits are required and cost $15per person. They can be obtained at the White River park entrance.

For an additional fee, reservations can be made up to 60 days in advance. It also costs$10 per car to enter the park. Information for Mount Rainier National Park can befound online at nps.gov/mora. The phone number for the White River Ranger Stationis 360-569-2211.


— Alex Van Steen, RMI.

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Moving quietly across the snow-covered glacier at

dawn, your serenity is broken by a single shout.

Your eyes widen as you watch your partner disappear

in front of you — swallowed by a collapsing snow bridge.

As the rope jerks tight to your harness, you drop into self-

arrest. A few heavy breaths later, it’s silent once again. You

hear nothing from your partner in the crevasse, but can

feel his weight pulling against your harness.

What to do now? First, yell to your partner to form a

plan. Is he injured? If not, he should be able to climb or

prussik out on his own while you hold fast. Or, you can

lower him to a snow bench or even the bottom of the cre-

vasse if there’s an easy walk or scramble out either side of

the fissure. But if he’s injured or not responding to your calls, or just

stuck, you will have to haul him out on your own. A 3:1 pulley system,

also called a “Z drag,” is the quickest way to do this by yourself. (If you’re

traveling with a larger group, you can gang together like tug of war

and man-haul him up without rigging pulleys.)

Here’s what you do:• Build an anchor. From the self-arrest position, build a solid

anchor. This can be a picket, deadman or ice screw, or even an ice axe,

pack or skis buried deadman-style, depending on the snowpack and

what gear you’re carrying. As you build the anchor, remember: the

bigger the anchor and the deeper it is placed, the more likely it will

hold. Keep the angle of pull as parallel to the surface as possible — not

upward — by extending the clip-in points with a runner or cord and

digging a deep trench for these slings in the direction of pull.

• Transfer the load. You should have a prussik hitched to your

end of the rope and clipped your harness, tied before you even set foot

on the glacier. With a solid anchor now established, unclip the prus-

sik from your harness, and attach it to the main anchor point with a

Munter Hitch tied off with a mule knot. Slowly transfer the load to the

Munter, and back the main rope up with a Figure-8-on-a-bight.

Next, place another prussik on the free end of the rope and clip this

to your harness. You are now free to move around on this end of the

rope, but always keep yourself attached. With your increased mobil-

ity, double-check the anchor and consider backing it up.

Sliding the prussik along as you go for a self-belay, move

to the edge of the crevasse to check on your partner (be

careful not to kick snow blocks on him). If he is seri-

ously hurt and needs immediate care, rappel the free end

of the rope and administer the necessary aid. Before

rapping down, do two things: Attach a hands-free

backup for your rappel to your harness (e.g. a prussik

knot), and prepare the lip for your descent. Put something (a pack,

axe or clothing) under the rap line near the lip to prevent it from

burying itself into the snow edge.

• Prepare the edge. Before hauling your partner, compact the

snow near the lip without knocking blocks down on your partner.

Then place an ice axe, ski pole or pack under the rope near the edge

to keep the rope from sawing into the snow as you haul.

• Build the Z-pulley. Attach a prussik, the “tractor,” to your part-

ner’s rope near the lip. Clip the free end of your rope into this friction

hitch with a carabiner and pulley. Now, walk back to the anchor and

untie the Figure-8 backup knot (but keep the rope firmly in your

hand), placing this part of the rope through a carabiner and pulley clipped

to the anchor. (To prevent the top prussik from jumping through the

carabiner or pulley as you haul, first run this loop of rope through a

belay plate clipped to the carabiner.) You are now ready to haul on

the free end of the rope, using the 3:1 Z system. Carabiners can be

used in place of pulleys, but greatly increase the friction.

Using the prussik attached from you to the free end of the rope, start

hauling, using your legs to dig in and pull. The best system is to pull

as far as you can, reset the top prussik by sliding it tight on the vic-

tim’s haul rope, reset your tractor prussik, and pull again.

As you raise you partner close to the top, clear snow away from the edge

to make hauling him over the lip as easy as possible. If he gets snagged

under the lip, you may need to reach over the edge and help pull him over.

Jon Tierney is an AMGA-certified Rock and Alpine Guide and

owner of Acadia Mountain Guides Climbing School. The

school offers year-round rock, ice and mountaineering instruc-

tion and guiding in northern New England and destina-

tions worldwide. The school also offers AIARE avalanche

courses, AMGA guide training courses and summer youth camp

programs. Contact: 888-232-9559, acadiamountainguides.com.

The Z pulleyCREVASSE-RESCUE ESSENTIALS EVERYALPINIST SHOULD KNOW

By Jon Tierney

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Janine Patitucci in good form high on Shasta’s hoary ramparts.

B oring. A walk up, a scree slog.So this is what happens whenthe Cascades — that elegant chain

of strato-volcanoes whose huge glaciersshimmer on the skyline from north of Seattle way down past Portland — sim-ply go too farsouth to bake in the Californiasun. Maybe it’s a little likeyour local Star-bucks, you fig-ure. I mean, thismountain chainmust put out alot more grandeup around Seat-tle, or what’s allthe fuss about?

Driving by in August on a road burnoutfrom Squamish to the Valley only reinforcesthe impression. If you head up on Shastaanyway, there is little to break the monot-ony. Sure, it starts off nicely in a red fir for-est, but then you blaze out onto that scree,and into the company of lifer peak-bag-gers droning on about the wonders of theirtechno trekking poles. Just when you thinkyou’ve had it, a blur of tanned trail-runnerthighs flashes by, haloed in a light sweat.But you’re just too road-weary to catch up.

Well, bubba, your timing sucks.Mount Shasta (14,162 feet) is a peak of

secret facets and sparkling seasons. Butmid-summer in the Avalanche Gulch offersnot a hint of them. Nonetheless, thereare three answers to the riddle of whybother with Shasta: timing, locomotion

and location. What you want is snow sea-son, ice tools, and a trip around to thesheltering northern flanks that hide Cali-fornia’s largest glaciers, complete withicefalls and frozen headwalls. Get it right,and you’ve found the perfect appren-

ticeship to spring-board into thealpine world, onethat leads onwardto the Black Ice Couloir onthe Grand Teton,and Rainier’s Liberty Ridge.

Shasta certainlywas an excitingplace for me tostart going alpine.Catapult back over

three decades with me, and land in themiddle of my first Shasta epic. No, youdon’t get the story of the hippie chick froma commune in the shadow of Mount Shastawho charmed her way into my spare cram-pons and up the Hotlum Ice Headwall. I pre-ferred the 800 feet of 40-plus-degree iceon the north face that topped right ontothe summit, but she ... she was too busysurfing the vibe of the mountain, hopingto find the tunnel that surely led to theLemurians living inside. That trip was later.So was the one threading icefalls and cram-pon-bouldering on seracs on Shasta’s Whit-ney Glacier. I sewed an alpine pack for thatclimb, hand stitching through one of thoseHaight-Ashbury winters, as a way to main-tain my alpine focus. Nope, back to thatfirst epic, still the wildest.

KEVI

N L

AHEY


Escaping the rain-smeared streets of San Francisco that January so

long ago, we had survived the muffling tule-fog drive up the Central

Valley and abandoned our skis on the rim of Avalanche Gulch to con-

tinue on crampons. But now, nearing our third dawn on the mountain,

the wind shrieked as we camped at 14,000 feet smack on Shasta’s

summit plateau. John Fischer, my

partner, was wide-eyed beside me

in our cramped tent. We started

climbing together at 13; by now

we’d been at it nearly a decade.

John went on to own the Palisade

School of Mountaineering and

guide around the world. Randy

Sperry, my other partner, shivered

in another tent somewhere below.

Up here, bubbles of wind rippled under the tent floor. Could John’s home-

sewn canopy stand up to this? Our ice axes were staking it out, but we

wished we had them inside to slam right through the tent floor in

case we went into a power slide.

With the summit just steps away, we gathered our tattered courage

and ventured out into the gale. A stuff bag and one tent pole immedi-

ately blew away toward Nevada, and we had to lie on our packs as we

stuffed away the tent. A few minutes later we gripped the summit rocks

and squinted at the mountain’s dawn shadow off toward the Pacific,

while the weather station down at the old ski bowl recorded gusts of 80

and 100 miles an hour. That was 7,000 feet below us. Who knows what

the wind measured on the open dome of the upper mountain. The jet

stream had touched down around our ears, and was merrily ripping

chunks of icy crust to sail at us. Ever wished for a helmet on a walk-up?

Michael Zanger, the local guide who lives closest to the mountain

(he founded Shasta Alpine Guides), later told me his unique way of meas-

uring the wind up high. From

his window he sees the Red Banks,

a chossy cliff band that runs along

the top of Avalanche Gulch at

13,000 feet, and can make out the

old survey cairns spaced evenly

and measurably up that slope.

By clocking the blast of snow

carried on a gust, he has fre-

quently watched the winter winds

hit 150 to 180 miles an hour. His highest wind observation? Two hun-

dred ten miles an hour.

Clinging to the summit like two barnacles, we were about to learn

that going down can be harder than up. Yet still we lingered on the prospect.

All the atmospheric grime had long since blown off toward Colorado,

leaving the sky so achingly clear we thought we could see Mount Tamal-

pais, anchoring the Golden Gate Bridge 250 miles to the south. We

turned into the wind and began crawling down the mountain.

When the gusts were on us all we could do was lay flat on the snow

with axes dug into self-arrest. Each time it lulled even a little we jumped

up and ran, roped together, downhill. Then that freight-train sound,

like the sky itself was tearing, roaring upon us. We would fall onto our

axes. Again. As the day dragged along, we began to think we’d have

to bivy again just to get down.

No, no hot scree, no crowds, and nothing remotely like boredom

were anywhere in sight that day.

At the right time, and on the right aspects, Mount Shasta’s truly

alpine character grabs your attention. Did I mention timing? Here’s the

First Law of Climbing Shasta: Never, never go near the place on Memo-

rial Day weekend. Fifteen thousand people attempt Shasta every year,

and it seems like 92 percent of them are lined up nose to tailpipe clear

up Avalanche Gulch that very weekend. It’s enough to give nightmares

to the climbing rangers from the Forest Service, who are nice guys and

good climbers, and amazingly patient any other time of the year.

Yet even from the same trailhead at Bunny Flat, it is possible to

sneak around to the West Face of Shasta, just the next drainage over.

There it is practically deserted, with pristine camping in Hidden Valley

and stouter climbing than Avalanche Gulch. The approach is the same

for the first thousand feet, then veers north for two or three more

hours to Hidden Valley (see the West Face route description). This

access is handy, since Bunny Flat is the only paved roadhead on the moun-

tain. And in favor of the environment you have of course traded in

the SUV for a cool gas-electric hybrid, right? Yep, saved enough on

gas already to fund this road trip.

Anyway, back on that road to alpine climbing. As you progress from

snow climbing to glacier work to alpine ice, you can find classic exam-

ples of each in turn by working your way around from the west to the

Shasta is a big mountain with real objective hazards.Beware, and know your ABC’s of crevasse and avalancherescue — before you rope up. E

RIC

WH

ITE

Who knows what the wind measured

on the open dome of the upper mountain.

The jet stream had touched down

around our ears, and was merrily ripping

chunks of icy crust to sail at us.

Ever wished for a helmet on a walk-up?

north side of Shasta. It took me five years, but you can run through them

all in a single season as the snow transforms from spring through sum-

mer and into fall. Say you do the West Face on the weekend before Memo-

rial Day. A month later you can come back to tackle the Whitney

Glacier. The biggest glacier in California, it has actually been growing

lately. You’ll find it right north of Hidden Valley, over that prominent

notch between Shasta and the satellite peak Shastina. Rope up and

step out into the icefall. Try prussiking the rope to get yourself out of

a crevasse. When the rope bites into soft snow at the lip, it gets harder

than you think. Now drop back down and front-point out. The upper

layers of the glacier will be softer and more forgiving. Later, you can

drop deeper to wrestle with gnarlier ice. Try stemming a slot. Now

imagine that you fell in without crampons or a rope. Your last resort

is to take off your boots and stem oh-so-slowly by freezing first one sock

and then the other to the ice. Don’t laugh, it’s been done.

Then later in July — or even August — you return one more time,

for a graduation climb up the North Face. The direct line weaves cre-

vasses on the Hotlum Glacier as it steepens toward a final 800 feet of

40-degree ice, ending on the summit plateau.

Contemplating these lines — and there are more good ones —

Mount Shasta gains stature. Guide Tim Keating, the head of the local

Sierra Wilderness Seminars, says, “This is one of the best mountains in

California to train to go anywhere in the world. You’ve got altitude,

glaciers ... I get people taking my five-day clinic, then going to Rainier

without a guide. Shasta is the only place in the world where you can

go ice climbing in August — this is so California — then go surfing.”

Back on Shasta, you’re bound to run into the climbing rangers

sooner or later. Stop and talk to them. You’re paying their salaries;

check out their stories about rescuing gumbies who forgot to remove

their crampons before glissading. It’s bound to be interesting. These

guys haven’t always been on the mountain. In fact they owe their jobs

to a much-maligned “Fee Demo” program, the Forest Service’s attempt

to charge users directly — here it’s the parking and peak fees — for man-

aging our recreation experience. You probably won’t need a rescue,

not after snow school and all that crampon practice. But your fee has

also helped grade the dirt roads leading to the north side, put out-

houses at roadheads and run the “pack your poop” program.

When you get home, let the Feds know what you think. Because

the experimental phase of Fee Demo is nearly over, and they need

our help deciding whether it should continue. Personally, I reckon that

Shasta is one of the few places where Fee Demo really works. Like the

California SnoPark tags, it’s a direct tax on the users it directly bene-

fits. Beyond here, though, I’ll be a lot happier to pay a special recre-

ation tax after I know that the loggers and the miners and the

cowboys are paying a fair share too, instead of just a token for their

chance to belly up to the public trough. Otherwise, it’s just more

“Multiple Abuse.”

On the summit for the third

time after climbing the Hotlum

Ice Tongue, your Shasta appren-

ticeship is complete. Get along

now, on out to the great snow

and ice ranges of this cool planet we share. Go to the high Sierra

where steeper and more brittle ice gullies lurk. Or on to Rainier, The

Grand, or Athabasca (the beta is all here). Only do it quick, before the

world’s ice all melts, and snow becomes just a legend from the past.

Cramponing palm trees in your shorts just ain’t gonna be the same.

Doug Robinson is a Rock and Alpine certified AMGA guide, and has forgot-

ten how long he’s been in that business. Something over 35 years, he

reckons. Along the way his style has reshaped the relationship climbers

have with rock (the clean climbing revolution), helped turn a lot of folks

on to climbing with finesse (the best-selling “rock video” of all time,

Moving Over Stone), and boosted

the profession of guiding —- he

was the first President of the Amer-

ican Mountain Guides Associa-

tion. Contact: 831-684-9465,

[email protected].

The Hotlum Glacier offers ample opportunity to brush up onboth your front-pointing and French techniques.

ER

IC W

HIT

E



WHITNEY GLACIER ROUTE Season. Mid-June through September.Vertical gain and time needed. At least 7,000 feet, depending on the approach.

Count on three full days, minimum; this climb verges on expeditionary. The completeWhitney Glacier is seldom done because of its approach, but it is worth the extraeffort. After all, this is the largest glacier in California, full of icefalls. And unlike theshrinking fossil glaciers of the Sierra, this one is actively growing. Here is your chanceto try out a full range of big-mountain strategies and techniques. Starting with decid-ing when to go and how to get onto the glacier.

Clothing and footwear. Full-on mountain boots. Don’t miss the opportunity totest drive different lasts and check out the plactic-vs-leather question before youinvest. The second-largest stock of rental boots on the West Coast is right here atThe Fifth Season in town. Pack insulating layers for the snow, plus a warm hat, glovesand gaiters.

Gear. One skinny 60-meter rope will belay the glacier travel; double it for ice climb-ing on seracs and out of crevasses.

• A classic 70cm snow axe — 75 or 80cm if you play basketball.• Crampons. Lightweight, hinged aluminum crampons are fast becoming a pre-

ferred choice for general mountaineering. And they’re cheap enough to consider buy-ing instead of renting.

• 1 or 2 snow flukes to anchor belays.• 2 prussik loops or a set of Petzl Tiblocs, plus runners or lightweight aiders for get-

ting out of slots.• 3 to 4 ice screws — not for getting up the thing, but to enjoy wayside diver-

sions, like those icewalls you’ll pass along the way. • 2 to 3 cordelettes for anchors.• Helmet, harness, belay device and 2 to 3 locking carabiners per person.• Bags to “pack your poop.”Water. Running water or melted snow. Route strategy. Think expedition, with three possible approaches and two

descents. Early season, you could use the paved approach road to Bunny Flat,descend the West Face (ski or board, even!) and still get a good taste of the upperWhitney complete with icefall and serac bouldering. This approach comes up throughHidden Valley and over Shastina Col (with a chance to climb Shastina, which israrely done). To do the complete Whitney, you have to get more serious and comein from the north. So the second strategy heads for the roadhead at North Gate (seethe guidebook or ask at the ranger station). This is a good selection later in the sea-son, because on the north side of the mountain there is still snow cover on theinevitable scree and talus. Climb to the 9,000-foot contour before traversing aroundto the west, which will land you near the snout of the glacier at 10,000 feet. Or youcan do the direct. Drive up Bolam Road off Highway 97. Parking at 5,500 feet gives

you an 8,660-foot climb — clearly the longest on the mountain. Don’t miss the 250-foot Whitney Falls on this approach.

Descent. If you approached from Bunny Flat, and especially if you brought skis,descend the West Face to rejoin your ascent route in Hidden Valley. If you tra-versed in from the North Gate roadhead, you now have the opportunity for a moretechnical descent down the Bolam or even the Hotlum Glacier. Be aware, how-ever, of the many open crevasses on these steeper descents. Some of them arehidden too, like the one at the bottom of The Ramp. After a thousand or more feetof freewheeling glissade, at least half a dozen climbers have dropped suddenlyinto this blind but very large slot.

Permits. You’ll need a wilderness permit (free) and a summit permit to go above10,000 feet on Shasta. $15 per person, plus $5 for roadhead parking. Check at theranger station in the town of Mount Shasta.

Guidebook. The Mount Shasta Book, by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger comescomplete with all routes marked on a special map of the mountain.

HOTLUM ICE HEADWALL Season. Mid-June through September — later gets you the more exacting ice

conditions and open slots.Vertical gain and time needed. 7,240 feet, two to three days. Day one: Hike

up from the North Gate trailhead (see guidebook or ask at the Ranger Station —Brewer Creek is a slightly higher choice). Campsites begin showing up as you crossa reliable stream at 9,500 feet. Or you can continue to a fine campsite at 11,700 feet.You’ll find it, the only flat spot atop a wedge of moraine. Day two: Weave among cre-vasses and through two icefalls as you climb the Hotlum Glacier, then trend right ofthe rock headwall toward the obvious ice chute leading to the summit plateau. Latein the summer this will turn to water ice. If you have an extra day, you can go icebouldering and practice crevasse rescue out on the glacier.

Clothing and footwear. Stiff-soled leather or plastic mountain boots and run-ning shoes for the easier sections. You have a choice in crampons, too. Buy aluminumfor lightness if your focus is mountaineering, or steel if you’re headed toward waterice. A small file will help everyone touch up their points. Don’t forget gloves, gaiters,dark glasses and a warm hat. Shell: Go light; my last mountain parka was 7.5 ouncesand took five years to wear out. The new stretch shells are worth checking out aswell. Flexibility is always in style.

Gear. One 60-meter 7.8mm rope goes well here. They’re strong enough for a slid-ing fall on snow, or doubled on steeper leads. Three or even four can travel on one ona glacier, and they make a good second rope on rock climbs.

• Snow axe. For a few bucks more than bare bones, you can own one of the veryaesthetic “racing” axes. Look for a forged steel head on an aluminum shaft. Or evengo titanium.

Guide’s Beta to Mount Shasta By Doug Robinson

courtesy:

Mount ShastaNorth Side


• Three to four ice screws for the party and a deadman (so much better than pick-ets) for belaying on snow.

• Two to three cordelettes, four runners, six carabiners apiece. • Helmet, harness, a belay device and locking carabiner per person.• Crevasse rescue gear: Prussik knots pre-tied onto the climbing rope are the clas-

sic setup, or Petzl Tiblocs.• Bags to “pack your poop.”Water. Meltwater seeps pretty fast into this volcanic ground. You’ll find trickles

down low. Higher, keep stuffing a little snow into your bottle(s) before you drink (usesthe heat energy in the water to keep making more).

Route strategy. Get an early start to put the most crunch in your cramponing. Youhave a wide choice in your route-finding. This is your chance to try probing acrosssnow bridges, front-point seracs and stemming out of slots. The more of this you do,the more prepared you’ll be for Rainier, Robson and Denali. Practice here while the weatheris with you.

Depending on the season, the headwall gully could be anything from Styrofoam snowto outright water ice. Push your French Technique (flat footing) here — you can alwaysfront point later. You could carry two tools up there, but see how far you can go withjust one, lightly balancing while you set it higher. A full-length snow axe has a bigadvantage in efficiency; one good high placement, and you can make several cramponsteps as you climb up the handle. With a little practice, the head can actually bebelow you before you rock it loose, re-grip and slam it in higher.

Descent. Walk a ways west on the summit plateau before rolling onto the BolamGlacier to descend. It’s a little less steep, especially at the top, and has the addedbonus of finding your way down a whole new piece of terrain. You might try carvinga snow bollard to rap over the bergschrund.

Permits. You’ll need a wilderness permit (free) and a summit permit to go above10,000 feet on Shasta. $15 per person, plus $5 for roadhead parking. Check at theranger station in the town of Mount Shasta.

Guidebooks. The Mount Shasta Book, by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger comescomplete with all routes marked on a special map of the mountain.

WEST FACE Season. Mid-May through July — full snow cover with frozen crust.Vertical gain and time needed. 7,280 feet, two days. Day one: Approach from

Bunny Flat trailhead to Horse Camp, the Sierra Club’s stone hut. Continuing througha campground behind the hut, you’ll pick up a fairly good climber’s trail that traversesaround to the west as it gains another 1,400 feet into Hidden Valley (great campsite).Day two: Alpine start (3:00 to 4:00 a.m.) to get onto the snow by starlight (any wan-ing phase of the moon would be a bonus). Dawn will illuminate the climbing as itsteepens enough to welcome more focus. Summit before noon to stay ahead of

potential thunderstorms, and you can be drinking beer in town by the evening.Clothing and footwear. Stiff-soled mountain boots — you need the structure to

kick steps. The stiffer they are, the smaller the notch you’ll need in frozen crust, andthe easier it will be to stand in the niches. Think edging on rock — your squishy trailrunners won’t cut it. This is your chance to rent a good plastic boot or one of the stoutleather mountaineering boots. Do take your trail shoes along for relief on the non-technical bits. Bring warm layers, gaiters and waterproof pants for the long, long glis-sade back down. Don’t forget your shades, a warm hat and gloves.

Gear. A classic 70cm snow axe and mountaineering crampons. That means hinged,not rigid; front points are fine, but no heel spurs. You probably won’t need a rope orprotection. Take a map and compass and start getting in the habit of noticing majorbearings just in case you descend into a whiteout. Don’t forget poop bags to leaveno trace.

Water. You’ll pass running water down low. Up high, keep adding snow to your wide-mouth bottle and stuff it into the sunny side of your summit pack.

Route strategy. Watch the freezing level for a good time to jump on the mountain.In mid-summer, and especially when touched by the California monsoon, the routemay never freeze. Who needs a sloppy, wallowing slog? Catch it right and you getnice crisp step-kicking for half the route, then crunchy cramponing to the summit.

I like to time the approach to allow for a few early afternoon hours of practicing self-belay and self-arrest in a little bowl in Hidden Valley that runs north off of Casaval Ridge.Catch the snow there at the right softness for a good technique workout, then havea few hours of sun afterward to dry out, relax, and pack up for the summit day’s alpinestart. Everybody needs an hour or two of brushing up on self-arrest, every alpine sea-son. If you’re new to this, plan an extra day and a local guide will run you through alively and illuminating snow school.

This is one of those climbs that give the classic definition to Third Class: “You canprobably walk up it with your hands in your pockets, but you’d better have a ropealong just in case.” I keep a couple of short chunks of 7.8mm rope around for justthose times. Say a 60-foot piece and a 90-foot piece. The short ropes are great insur-ance, just in case one of your buddies starts having flashbacks of the time he wanderedinto the Black Ice Couloir without crampons.

Descent. Just reverse it, get on your butt and slide. Or, catch it early enough anda little firmer to show some style and boot glissade, linking a thousand turns intofigure-8s. Another great reason for those stiff boots — the soles are more like skis,with edges.

Permits. You’ll need a wilderness permit (free) and a summit permit to go above10,000 feet on Shasta. $15 per person but parking at Bunny Flat is free. Check at theranger station in the town of Mount Shasta.

Guidebook. The Mount Shasta Book, by Andy Selters and Michael Zanger comescomplete with all routes marked on a special map of the mountain.

courtesy:

Mount ShastaSouthwest Side

PERMITTED GUIDE SERVICES:Alpine Skills InternationalP.O. Box 8Norden, CA530-426-9108alpineskills.comASI’s programs are directed by Bela Vadasz, who is anAMGA-certified Rock, Alpine and Ski Mountaineering Guide.Their courses and guided climbs range from the Sierraaround the world.

Shasta Mountain Guides1838 Hill Rd. Mt. Shasta, CA 96067530-926-3117shastaguides.comFounder Michael Zanger, author of the guidebook TheMount Shasta Book and the very interesting MountShasta, History Legend and Lore, keeps the context livelyas you learn the full range of snow and ice skills. AMGAaccredited.

Sierra Wilderness SeminarsP.O. Box 988Mt. Shasta, CA 96067888-797-6867swsmtns.comOwner Tim Keating is a longtime local guide, who knowsthe mountain and its crafts as well as anyone, andfocuses on giving you the skills to climb beyond Shastaon your own. AMGA accredited.

RENTAL GEAR: AXES, BOOTS, CRAMPONS,TENTS, ETC.:The Fifth Season426 N. Mt. Shasta Blvd.Mt. Shasta, CA 96067530-926-3606thefifthseason.com

The House of Ski and Board316 Chestnut StMt. Shasta, CA 96067530-926-2359hosab.com

CLIMBING SHOPSHermit’s Hut3184 Bechelli Ln.Redding, CA 96002888-507-4455hermitshut.com

Ashland Outdoor Store37 3rd St.Ashland, OR 97520541-488-1202outdoorstore.com

CLIMBING AND SKI CONDITIONS UPDATE24-hour recorded phone message, very thorough andcurrent. Compliments of The Fifth Season: 530-926-5555.

PERMITS AND INFO FROM THE FOREST SERVICEMt. Shasta Ranger District204 West Alma St.Mt. Shasta, CA 96067530-926-4511r5.fs.fed.us/shastatrinity/mtshasta

Give ‘em shelter. Dan and Janine Patitucci bellied up inside the Sierra Club Hut,on the West Face of Mount Shasta.

“I want my boots perfect for climbing.Precise, sensitive, warm and lightweight for ascents and descents."

www.asolo.com

Jean Christophe Lafaille and Asolo Summit

Asolo, a proud sponsor of the Ouray Ice Festival

SHASTA ESSENTIALS



Prescribed altitude drugs won’t get you to the summit,but being prepared and making safe decisions will help.Timing. The best time to climb on the southern routesis from May to early July, after that, it can be thou-sands of feet of scree scrambling and a bowling alleyof falling rocks. The best time to climb on the north andeast sides is from June (when you can get to the trail-heads) to August. Water ice usually develops by lateAugust or early September, making the glacier routesmore dangerous (long, tortuous falls).Training. It’s not a walk to the top. Getting your calvesand quads ready for thousands of feet of steep climbing(35 to 45 degrees) will help. As well, spending severaldays, or consecutive weekends, above 8,000 feet willhelp your body begin its acclimatization.Before you start. Check the weather, climbing infor-mation and avalanche danger before you start yourclimb. Watch for high winds, lightning, snow, hail andrain any day of the year. Tents are destroyed everysummer by high winds and you could be a lightning rodon the upper mountain. Avalanches have occurred inthe summer months. For the latest avalanche fore-cast: shastaavalanche.orgAltitude illnesses. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate! Themore dehydrated you are, the more susceptible you areto altitude illnesses, of which Acute Mountain Sick-ness (AMS) is the most common. Believe it or not, High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High-AltitudeCerebral Edema (HACE) do happen on Mount Shasta; knowthe signs to look for and be ready to descend.

— Courtesy USDA Forest Service, Mount ShastaClimbing Rangers, Eric White — ClimbingRanger/Avalanche Specialist, USDA-Forest Service,Mount Shasta Ranger Station, 204 W. Alma St., MountShasta, CA 96067, 530-926-9617, [email protected]

Mount Shasta Ranger’s Tips

PATI

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1-888-ON-BELAYwww.espritropes.com




Frostbite is an insidious problem on which reams of

documents are available — if you have the time and

a heavy tolerance for military jargon and mind-

numbing boredom. Luckily, a few key points can help you

in identifying and preventing frostbite.

Start by understanding how it works. When you — espe-

cially the extremities of your hands, feet, face and ears — are exposed

to cold, blood flow decreases to prevent subsequent loss of body

heat. With a loss of warming circulation, the fluid in your cells and

tissues can start to freeze, forming ice crystals. These ice crystals take

up more physical space than the fluid did, rupturing the cell walls.

Deep frostbite can cause permanent tissue damage.

Recognize the three stages of frostbite• First-degree frostbite, or frost-nip. Skin is white and stiff but the under-

lying tissue remains pliable. Areas affected will be painful or numb.

• Second-degree, superficial frostbite. The skin will be white or blue and

feel hard and frozen. Deep tissue remains undamaged at this point, but

the skin will blister upon re-warming. Usually the affected areas will be numb

superficially, but sensitive to pressure and pain below the surface.

• Third-degree, deep-tissue frostbite. Underlying tissue is rigid and

the skin is blotchy, white or bluish. Deep-tissue frostbite requires re-

warming in an environment, usually a hospital or clinic, where the

tissue cannot be refrozen.

Avoidance• Choose your routes and weather windows carefully; manage your

equipment weeks in advance and rigorously check your hands, head and

face protection along with your footwear. Your hard route is not the

place for testing the newest, lightest high-tech garments and boots.

• Although down-filled garments may be superior in arid environ-

ments, synthetic insulation is a better choice for coastal climates. It retards

moisture more effectively and dries more rapidly than down.

• Get in the habit of wearing thin liner gloves all the time and never

exposing bare skin to the elements.

If your climb requires extreme dexterity, use gloves, not mittens.

Mittens are, of course, much more efficient for conserving warmth,

but they won’t be if you frequently take your hands out of them to climb,

photograph or deal with gear. Glove technology and fit have improved

significantly in the past few years. Stash a pair of mittens in the bot-

tom of the pack for emergencies.

• Check through all of your camp gear and be sure all liquids are con-

tained securely so you won’t soak a glove in a spill, especially with white

gas, which can cause instant frostbite. When Peter Metcalf, Glenn Ran-

dall and I did the first alpine-style ascent of Mount Hunter’s Southeast spur,

I was so cheap on the cooking gear that I improvised an ill-fitting, Christ-

mas-cookie tin for our pot lid. This was idiotic because we invariably got

our handwear wet placing and removing the lid.

• In extreme cold, use vapor-barrier sock liners and change socks fre-

quently. Always change socks at bivouacs, as wet feet day after day

can lead to increased susceptibility to frostbite. Many climbers carry foot

powder to both retard and absorb moisture. Some use using topical

irritants like cayenne pepper to stimulate circulation.

• Encourage good peripheral circulation by maintaining adequate

nutrition and avoiding overuse of caffeine and other vaso-constrictors.

Some climbers find concentrated garlic powder capsules useful for

stimulating circulation; others like the Chinese herb Ciwujea (aka Siber-

ian Ginseng) to be useful.

• Cracked, dry skin can quickly lead to frostnip and second-degree

frostbite in the cold. A thin layer of any kind of moisturizing, protec-

tive cream or ointment helps tremendously.

Pete Athans has summited Everest seven times, in gloves — because he

needed dexterity for everything from fixing ropes to shooting video. He guides

for Exum Mountain Guides (307-733-2297, exumguides.com) and Alpine

Ascents International (206-378-1927, alpineascents.com).

AMGA.com

Deep freezeKEEP FROSTBITE AT BAY

By Pete Athans

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GUIDE SERVICES

Adventure Climbing and TrekkingCompany of South AmericaPO Box 100

Salida, CO 81201

719-530-9053

f. 719-530-9053

www.adventureco.com

[email protected]

EcuadorPeruBoliviaArgentina

Adventure ConsultantsPO Box 97 / 58 McDougall St.

Lake Wanaka, New Zealand 9192

64-3-443-8711

f. 64-3-443-8733

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HimalayaAntarcticaGreenlandSouth AmericaNew ZealandCarstensz Pyramid

Alpine Ascents International121 Mercer St.

Seattle, WA 98109

206-378-1927

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7 SummitsAlaskaCascadesEcuadorMexicoMongolia

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Earthworks6725 Partridge Dr.

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Mountain TripPO Box 111809

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Patagonia Mountain AgencyPO Box 210516

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AconcaguaEverestDhaulagiriCho OyuGasherbrumShishapangma

PMG - Professional Mountain GuidesJim Williams

PO Box 4166

Jackson, WY 83001

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f. 503-213-9861

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Grand Teton National Park (with ExumMountain Guides)Denali (with Alaska Denali Guiding & Alpine Ascents Int’l)Red Rocks (with Sky’s the Limit)NepalChina/TibetSouth America

Rock Climbing Guides InternationalPO Box 1971

Joshua Tree, CA 92252

760-366-7335

f. 253-423-0431

800-94-CLIMB

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[email protected]

Joshua Tree TahquitzNew Hampshire

San Juan Mountain GuidesPO Box 776

Ouray, CO 81427

970-325-4925

f. 970-325-4925

www.ourayclimbing.com

[email protected]

Ouray Ice ParkSan Juan National ForestEastern UtahColorado National MonumentBlack Canyon of Gunnison National Park

Selkirk Mountain ExperienceRuedi Beglinger

Box 2998

Revelstoke, BC V0E 2S0

Canada

250-837-2381

www.selkirkexperience.com

[email protected]

SelkirksYukonAlaskaEurope

Sierra Mountain CenterPO Box 95

Bishop, CA 93515

760-873-8526

f. 760-873-8526

www.sierramountaincenter.com

[email protected]

SierrasPatagoniaAlaskaDolomitesMt. Robson

Slipstream Rock & Ice GuidesBox 219 / 5010 Paradise Valley Rd.

Squamish, BC V0N 1H0

Canada

604-898-4891

f. 604-898-4429

800-616-1325

www.getclimbing.com

[email protected]

SquamishVictoriaWhistlerSkahaWestern Canada

Vertical AdventuresPO Box 7548

Newport Beach, CA 92658

949-854-6250

f. 949-854-5249

800-514-8785

www.verticaladventures.com

[email protected]

Joshua TreeIdylwilldTahquitzSuicide Rocks

MOUNTAIN TRANSPORTATION

K2 AviationPO Box 545

Talkeetna, AK 99676

907-733-2291

f. 907-733-1221

800-764-2291

www.flyk2.com

[email protected]

expedition support for McKinley & Alaska Range

Talkeetna Air TaxiPO Box 73

Talkeetna, AK 99676

907-733-2218

f. 907-733-1434

800-533-2219

www.talkeetnaair.com

[email protected]

expedition support for McKinley & Alaska Range

Guide Directory

Let theGuide Directorygrow your businessFor more information

contact:Ramona Roof

877-762-5423 [email protected]

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The red ice screw was the size ofa fountain pen and I had stuckthe pick of my alpine hammer

into its eye to crank it in. The steel tubescreamed with resistance, lifting off sheetsof gray ice that shattered like glass, andI feared falling and accelerating downthe 50-degree ice into my partner, RonHumble, 150 feet below. Might servehim right, though — he’d bought thesix crap screws at an army surplus storefor a buck-fifty each and confidentlyassured me, “We’ll be able to climb any-thing with these babies.” Who was I todoubt him? He’d actually climbed icebefore. It was the summer of 1979 andI was two years out of high school.

I cranked again and the rotten littlescrew bent like a nail in the claws of ahammer. My calf muscles had gone toa place that they’d never been before ...and that had been a hundred feet ago.Now they trembled in a queer oscillationapproaching a sine wave. My lungsheaved, dragging refrigerated alpine airover my teeth as I frantically spun a slingaround the half-sunk screw. Then Iclipped myself to it and slumped downto lie against the mountain.

By Barry Blanchard

Three climbers tackling the stunning Silverhornsnow ridge on 11,453-foot Athabasca, Alberta.

Descending from the summit via the North Glacier route. The North Face and summit are in the background.


Ron’s calves were equally useless when he

arrived, and we dangled 300 feet up that oceanic

expanse of ice on the North Face of Mount

Athabasca like two shipwrecked men clinging

to flotsam. That’s when Dick Mitten and Karl

Ostram happened by and rescued us. Dick and

Karl knew what they were doing, and were armed

with 10 Chouinard tubular ice screws — technology

so hallowed that it was a precious commodity,

dealt around like contraband (Dick had ren-

dezvoused with a guy two nights before to score

six of the “Chouinards” from the trunk of his

car). Ron and I followed, clipping and cleaning

the wonder screws and learning how to ration our

calf endurance by imitating Dick’s graceful pied

troisieme (that’s French for putting a foot sideways).

At one of the belays, Dick palmed one of the

little red screws and said, “You know, my dad

gave me one of these that he’d climbed with in

the ‘60s. I use it as a corkscrew to open wine

bottles. It even sucks as that.”

Six hours later we pulled over the top of the

Hourglass route, and since that very humbling

beginning I’ve climbed to the top of the 11,453-

foot white whale that is Mount Athabasca 67

times. Sixty of those ascents have been as a

working mountain guide. But I’m just a Johnny-

come-lately compared to some of the really

seasoned guides in my association, who have

climbed it over a hundred times, and especially

in the context of history.

F ortuitously, the mountain was already

identified by its Cree name, Athabasca

(meaning “a place where there are reeds”),

which had spread with the fur trade from lake

to river to mountain pass, when Norman Collie,

Hugh Stutfield and Herman Woolley camped

below it on August 17, 1898. These three British

visitors had a penchant for naming every peak

in sight, especially with each other’s names.

The trio had spent 19 days in the saddle,

fording torrents and occasionally coercing their

outfitters with whiskey to continue, when this note

appeared in their journal, Climbs and Explorations

in the Canadian Rockies, published by Stutfield

and Collie in 1903: “A glacier-clad peak looked

most promising from a climber’s point of view,

and we all were pleased that at last we had man-

aged to get within striking distance of a really good

mountain.” The next day, while Stutfield went

off hunting to put off starvation, Collie and

Woolley ascended the North Ridge, for the first

ascent of Mount Athabasca. On the summit the

pair were godstruck: “A new world,” they wrote,

“was spread at our feet: to the westward stretched

a vast ice-field probably never before seen by

the human eye, and surrounded by entirely

unknown, unnamed, and unclimbed peaks.”

They were gazing with the wonder of astronauts

onto the Columbia Icefield, a hundred square

miles of ice. Visible to the north was the bastion

of Mount Columbia, the second-highest peak in

the Rockies after Robson.

Hats off to Collie and Woolley: the first ascent of

what would become Canada’s most popular big

peak, done by an amateur party at a time when

unguided climbing was nearly unheard-of. Today,

the original North Ridge is seldom done owing to

rotten rock, yet the North Face Bypass, starting on

the ice and snow slopes of the North Basin and

including the spectacular ice chimney in which

Collie and Woolley cut steps, is one of the pre-

ferred lines of the modern climber. It switches at

10,500 feet onto the upper North Ridge.

The Swiss and Austrian mountain guides

working in the Rockies from the late

1800s to the mid-1950s were leg-

endary for spotting a good line, and that goes

double for Edward Feuz, Jr., a subsequent

ascentionist of Athabasca. Feuz is credited

with 78 first ascents — of not just routes but

mountains. In August 1920, he led Joseph

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Hickson and one E.L. Redford up the North

Glacier on Athabasca.

The route has become the “Standard” and has

been climbed by thousands since (though how

much pride Feuz, Hickson and Redford could have

derived from their ascent is questionable, as

the route had been used for descent by Collie

and Woolley 22 years earlier!).

In August of 1947, the beautiful sculpted

sweep of snow and ice that arcs from the North

Glacier to the West Summit was opened by Rex

Gibson, George Macphee and the Everest lumi-

naries Frank Smythe and Noel Odell. Today the

Silverhorn, a snow and ice route of intermedi-

ate difficulty, is popular with many climbers

wanting a first taste of a big route.

In pictures of the North Face of Athabasca

taken in the 1940s, what jumps off the

page is the large creeping glacier adhered

to the face. At some point over the next decade

those thousands of tons of ice must have slipped

their anchorage and thundered from the face

in a colossal collapse, because by 1952, when

the recently immigrated Austrian Toni Klettl

and his French partner Charlie Dupree made

the first ascent of the beautiful North Face, all

that was left was an ice bulge.

Toni was working on a gas pipeline in the area

when he and Charlie suddenly decided to climb

Athabasca. Toni borrowed an ice axe and they

took their four ice pitons — foot-long, tapered

and barbed spikes that look like something you’d

use to anchor wolverine traps — and 10-point cram-

pons (read: no front points). You have to respect

these guys: Falling just wasn’t an option back

then, and to gain security they chopped about

300 steps up the steep face, a backbreaking job.

Their climb has become the classic alpine

route of the range and stiff enough that a num-

ber of modern climbers have pitched off the

crux. The ice bulge is gone, but you can still

see the footprint of the creeping glacier — and

it is a big footprint.

It is often fascinating and alarming to me

to see skin on the faces of my friends blanch

to a chalky white from wind chill high up

on Athabasca. Where else in Alberta can you

endanger yourself with frostbite during the dog

days of summer?

Occasionally we can soak up a few rays on

the top, but more often a bitter wind pushes

us to snap the damn picture and get out of

there. Once out of every six starts up the

mountain we end up turning tail well shy of the

top because the wind slaps people to their

knees or sends their ball caps into orbit, or

smears spit, snot and tears across frozen faces.

Or the wind has hammered snow into a slab

that threatens to avalanche. Or we wallow like

water buffalo in a bog.

As well I know the mountain, Athabasca

always has a facet I haven’t seen before. Several

years ago we had an incredibly hot summer:

You could see the glaciers lose volume, while cre-

vasse fields appeared in places we’d never

known them before. The summit stretch of

Athabasca dried out to the point that we could

walk without crampons from 10,500 feet on

dry rock and scree. In that newly exposed scree

was a path! At some point the old climbers

must have had some dry summers because it was

their boots that had embossed that trail.

I follow footsteps that follow footsteps on

this mountain. As Norman McLean said, “Even-

tually, all things merge into one.”

In my case, a mountain runs through it all.

Contributing Editor Barry Blanchard is an alpinist

and internationally certified mountain guide with

Yamnuska Guide Service. He lives in Canmore,

Alberta. Contact: 403-678-4164; yamnuska.com.

Kim Gattone topping out the North Face onto the summit snowfield.

JOE

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As well I know the mountain,

Athabasca alwayshas a facet

I haven’t seenbefore.

TAKES

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Vertical gain and time needed. 4,700 feet over one day. For some parties it’s along day (a bivouac atop the moraine at 8,200 feet can take some of the sting out).

Water. Take one to two liters (a hot thermos is nice) and plan on getting morefrom rivulets on the North Glacier. Use your ice screw as a straw.

Descent. If the snow is getting sloppy and you think that you’ll be up to yourcrotch descending the North Glacier, consider going down the AA Col. Being moresheltered, the AA Col route is often less threatened by windslabs.

Permits. Bivouac permits are necessary, and available from the Parks Canadadesk at the Icefields Centre. Foreign guides must be IFMGA certified MountainGuides and must contact the ACMG office in Canmore (403-678-2885) to arrangefor a license.

Guidebooks. Selected Alpine Climbs in the Canadian Rockies, by Sean Dougherty,Rocky Mountain Books.

Guide service. Yamnuska Guide Service, in Canmore, Alberta: 403-678-4164,yamnuska.com.

Getting there. The North Glacier, Silverhorn and North Face routes all start at the climbers’parking on the north side of the mountain. This parking lot is off Highway 97 opposite theIcefields Centre (recent mountain-condition info and voluntary registration available at theParks Canada desk). A radio-operated gate blocks the road to the climbers’ parking areaduring the day, when the road is used to for monster-tire tourist shuttles. At the end ofthe business day, about 7 p.m., the gate opens until about 8 a.m. for climber use. Do nottry to lift this gate manually. Climbers’ parking is on the left, just past the bridge overthe creek, where there is another locked gate. There is a small route-info register.

Climbing shops. Selkirk Source for Sports, 504 9th Ave., Golden,BC V0A 1H0, 250-344-2966. Monod Sports Ltd., PO Box 310, Banff,AB T0L 0C0, 403-762-4571. Mountain Magic Equipment, 228Bearst, Banff, AB T0L 0C0, 800-661-0399, mountainmagic.com.Hostel Shop, 730-10th Ave. SW, Calgary, AB T2R 0A9, 403-283-8312. Cal-gary Climbing Centre , #6 7130 Fisher Rd. SE, Calgary, AB T2H 0W3, 403-252-6778, calgaryclimbing.com. Mountain Equipment Coop, 830 10th Ave.SW, Calgary, AB T2R 0A9, 403-269-2420, mec.ca. Valhalla Pure Outfitters, 726Main St., Canmore, AB T1W 2B6, 403-678-5610, vpo.ca. Gravity Gear, 618Patriciast St., Jasper, AB T0E 1E0, 888-852-3155, gravitygearjasper.com.

The North Glacier (Grade II)Season. The route can be climbed any month, with early June through late Sep-

tember best for climbing conditions. Early March through April is best for a ski descent.Clothing and footwear. Leather boots are preferred (three-quarters shank with

a flexible crampon are okay). Do yourself a huge favor (with an increase in safety aswell) and fit your crampons with “anti-balling” plates to keep them from balling up withwet snow. Sun hat, wool hat, neck tube. Sunscreen, lip balm, sunglasses, goggles(optional). Puffy jacket, storm shell, pile jacket, pile shirt, base layer top. Shell pants,synthetic pants, base-layer bottom. Midweight gloves, extra mitts.

Gear (party of two). 30-60 meters of 9mm rope depending on party size. 1-2snow stakes, map (83 C/3 Columbia Icefield), compass and altimeter. Per person: 1 iceaxe (70-80cm piolet is best), screw, pulley, double-length sling, 2 cordelettes, lockingbiners, normal biners, harness, crampons, helmets, headlamp. Ski pole optional.

Route strategy. Plan to do one to two hours of the approach by headlamp (upthe moraine trail to the start of the glacier). In late June that may mean startingwalking at 3 a.m. Don’t dally on the initial traverse of the glacier as there are ser-acs, some very ambitious, overhead. After taking the big right turn onto the bench,assess snow stability — this is a classic spot for a large windslab to form and guidesoften avoid this route after snow and wind (look to the “AA Col” route for an alter-native). The North Glacier is a long route and the snow is only getting less sup-portive as the sun gets higher. Keep the breaks short.

Silverhorn (Grade II)Season. Mid-June through September. Winter ascents are possible but uncom-

mon (the approach usually requires skis or snowshoes).Clothing and footwear. As per the North Glacier description with the excep-

tion of stiffer full-shank leather boots.Gear (party of two). 50-60 meters of 11mm

rope depending on party size. 2 snow stakes, map(83 C/3 Columbia Icefield), compass and altime-

ter. Per person: 1 ice axe (70-80cm piolet is best), icehammer, 6-8 ice screws, pulley, 2 double-length slings,

2 longer quickdraws, 4 shoulder-length slings, 2 cordelettes,locking biners, normal biners, harness, crampons, helmet,

The view of Athabasca from near the trailhead. From left: the North Face (1), Silverhorn (2) and North Glacier (3).

Guide’s beta on climbing Mount Athabasca By Barry Blanchard, Yamnuska Guide ServiceFor all three routes listed below:

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headlamp. Ski pole optional.Route strategy. Plan to do one to two hours of the approach

by headlamp (basically up the moraine trail to the start of theglacier). Don’t dally on the initial traverse of the glacier asthere are seracs, some very ambitious, overhead. Within rea-son try not to belay the whole route, which would be very,very time consuming. The Silverhorn is subject to a cross-loading of snow, usually from climber’s right to climber’s left.There is always windslab somewhere on the route. Talk topark wardens and other climbers for a local opinion on snowstability. Note that the glacial bench to the left of the route(approximately 11,000 feet) is especially prone to windload-ing and instabilities owing to its extreme height and cold-ness. Venture out there only if you feel very sure about the snow.

The North Face (Grade III, 5.5)Season. Mid-June through the end of September. The route

also gets done in winter (most would approach on skis and choosethe later winter for better overall stability and more daylight).

Clothing and footwear. As per the North Glacier descrip-tion with the exception of full-shank leather boots.

Gear (party of two or three). 2 x 50-60 meter half or twinropes (two ropes make it far easier to retreat), compass and altime-ter, map (83 C/3 Columbia Icefield), 8-10 ice screws, 2 knifeblades,1.5-inch angle, 4 nuts, 1 hand-sized cam, 1 fist-sized cam, 4longer quickdraws, 4 shoulder-length slings, 2 double-length slings,2 cordelettes. Per person: the traditional combination of a 70-80-cm piolet and short ice hammer, or two waterfall-type tools,a pulley, locking biners, harness, crampons, headlamp, helmet.Ski pole optional.

Route strategy. Plan to do one to two hours of the approachby headlamp (basically up the moraine trail to the start of theglacier). Don’t dally on the initial traverse of the glacier asthere are seracs, some very ambitious, overhead. Again, nodawdling from the base of the Silverhorn to the bergschrund,as you are scampering below an exceptionally ugly serac. Aimto take the ‘schrund at its absolute easiest crossing, even if itmeans some traversing to get back to the route. Stay on snowas long as you can; there is plenty of ice climbing ahead, andit will be more than tiring enough. The crux band can be any-thing from grade 2 water ice to 5.7 mixed climbing (duringrecent warm years its “feet” have melted out making it steeperand longer by a meter or two. There are usually fixed pins butbe prepared with the pins, nuts and cams listed above.

KA

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Pat Bates mincing through thecrux pitch of the North Face, firstclimbed in 1952 with 10-pointcrampons and a borrowed ice axe.

“A new world was spread at our feet: to the westwardstretched a vast ice-field probably never before seen bythe human eye, and surrounded by entirely unknown,

unnamed, and unclimbed peaks.”


You don’t need a degree in meteorology to know how bad things

can get when you’re caught in a mountain storm. Fortunately,

an incoming front often provides several warning signs before

unleashing the torrents — you just have to know what to look for. Here

are nine signs of a building storm:

Cirrus clouds. High, wispy cirrus clouds (commonly known as “mare’s

tails”) portend an approaching front. These clouds alone won’t tell you

how strong the front will be or when it will arrive (it may be 24 to 72 hours

out), but they are your first warning signs of changing weather.

Lenticular clouds. Lenticular and “cap” formations (also called

“wave” clouds) on mountain summits are dramatic warning signs of

high winds aloft. These winds produce a localized low-pressure sys-

tem on the lee side of the mountain, and can also be preludes to

larger storms.

Clouds moving in different directions. Clouds of different

altitudes moving in different directions are other signals of an unsta-

ble atmosphere. In other words, a new weather front is probably

moving in against an existing one.

Southerly winds. In the Northern Hemisphere, air circulates counter-

clockwise around a low-pressure system. East-moving storms (the most

common type) bring southerly winds on their leading edges. Valley winds

can be haphazard and deceiving, however, as they are affected by the day’s

heating and cooling.

Unsually warm nights. An incoming storm is often preceded by

stratus clouds that act as insulators, preventing the night’s normal heat

loss. When this phenomenon combines with southerly winds, the

warm temperatures may be particularly noticeable.

Decreasing pressure. A decrease in atmospheric pressure usually

means the weather is getting more unstable. The best way to moni-

tor atmospheric pressure in the field is by using an altimeter as a

barometer. When the pressure drops, the altimeter shows an increase

in altitude. When you reach camp in the evening, calibrate your

altimeter to the proper altitude shown on the map; in the morning,

look for any change. Also, as you reach another landmark whose

height is known, see if your altimeter is reading high or low relative

to the landmark. Always recalibrate when you have the chance.

Halos. High-level clouds will often refract halo-like light around

the sun or moon. These halos, or rings, are often signs of incom-

ing moisture.

Lowering cloud base. The “dewpoint” is the temperature at

which the air is saturated, bringing nighttime dew or precipitation. A

lowering cloud base is one easy-to-read sign that the dewpoint is

dropping, and precipitation is much more likely.

Building cumulus clouds. Thunderstorms are the perennial threat

to summertime alpinists, particularly because they can build suddenly

out of a seemingly calm, blue sky. The key signs of a developing thun-

derstorm are cumulus clouds growing vertically faster than horizontally,

forming cumulonimbus shapes. As they grow, they will likely trans-

form into dark, anvil-shaped boomers.

Dick Jackson is an AMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and USHGA Advanced

Tandem Paragliding Instructor. He is the owner of Aspen Expeditions and

Aspen Paragliding, offering year-round instruction and guiding for rock, snow,

ice and ski mountaineering. Contact: 970-925-7625, aspenexpeditions.com.

AMGA.com

Forecasting in the fieldNINE SIGNS OF CHANGING WEATHER

By Dick Jackson AN

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Alti Spectron X6 Cat. 4 lenses.Optimum protection in extremely bright light.

Val Montant, a member of the French

Acrobatic Para-Gliding Team and Julbo

"Ride The Planets" team in free-fly over the

Swakopmund drop zone in the Namibian desert

during the "Namib Gravity Trip", May 2002.

PROTECTS YOU FROM EVERYTHING

EXCEPT GRAVITY...

J U L B O I N C .2 5 O m e g a D r . S u i t e 1 5 0W i l l i s t o n , V T 0 5 4 9 5 c o n t a c t @ j u l b o i n c . c o m

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Tim Cumbo leading the wildly exposed upper pitches of the Exum Ridge (5.4), Grand Teton, Wyoming.

A Grand ExA Grand Ex

Start at your desk. Take a yellow legal pad — you’ll need theextra space — and write down the best summits in the Lower48. List the pros and cons. Ignore the writer’s cramps. The

highlights might come up something like this:Mount Rainier: big and glaciated volcano. Snowy hiking with cre-

vasse and avalanche hazards. Little, if any, technical climbing ...Gannett Peak: The highest summit in Wyoming. Approach requires

15 to 20 miles of backpacking ...Colorado fourteeners: High summits ... the top of which require lit-

tle more than talus plodding — except for odd summits like Longsand Capitol. Trails crowded with hundreds of hypoxic gapers ...

Mount Washington: Fiercest weather this side of Patagonia. Only6,200 feet above sea level. Paved road to the summit ...

The Grand Teton: 13,770 feet, trailhead minutes from highway. Easi-est routes offer exposed rock climbing at a manageable grade. Thetwo most popular routes are crowded — but other routes offer solidclimbing of all styles and grades ...

Hmm ... Better draw a circle around this one.I’ll be honest. If you are an intermediate trad climber or alpinist, but

haven’t climbed the Grand, you are blowing it. This Wyoming land-mark has the three things you want: It’s high. It’s accessible. It drawson the skills of a rock climber. Tetons guidebook author RichardRossiter puts it this way: “Anyone who fancies himself an alpineclimber in America must sooner or later get acquainted with this out-standing mountain.”

A lifetime of adventures on the climber’smountain — the Grand Teton By Pete Takeda

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For many, the Grand provides the sweet sat-

isfaction of sinking one’s teeth into their first

real mountain. The easiest routes are well-pro-

tected. The rock is generally solid by alpine stan-

dards, and the routes are spiced with airy,

bowel-quaking cruxes. The bonus: You don’t

have to buy an expensive overseas plane ticket

or burn an entire year’s vacation allotment to

make a trip to this Matterhorn-like spire.

The Grand Teton emerges from the swelling

matrix of wooded slopes and lesser summits to

claim its place as one of the great prizes of Amer-

ican mountaineering. William Owen described

the view in 1891:

“... we beheld the Grand Teton, unveiled from

foot to crown — a giant monolith rising a clear

5,000 feet from the glacier valley at its base, and

terminating in a point shaped as the steeple of a

church. Words cannot convey the impression

one gets while viewing that awful spire from this

point. Its size and appalling height are simply

overwhelming ... Five thousand feet of naked,

cold granite, with not a spear of vegetation nor

vestige of soil on the whole mountain.”

Owen, Franklin Spaulding, Frank Petersen,

and John Shive claimed the first ascent in 1898,

summiting via the now-legendary Owen-Spauld-

ing route, linking a series of unlikely looking

traverses on the summit pyramid’s steep north-

west aspect. Debate lingers, however, over

Nathaniel Langford and James Stevenson’s

claimed first ascent in 1872. Regardless of who

came when, over the last century the Grand’s

challenges have lured, Siren-like, the best climbers

in American history. Names like Lowe, Petzoldt,

Weissner, Chouinard, Exum, Unsoeld and House

grace the list of new-route activists.

Viewed from the flat plains of Jackson Hole, the

pointed cones of the Teton Range led to overly

generous comparisons by hoary 19th-century

French fur traders. They envisioned the jagged

peaks as shapely breasts — hence the “tetons”

or, in the parlance of our times, the tits.

My first glimpse of the Tetons also evoked

physical attraction. As in, I wanted to get my

body on top of the biggest one. Opportunity

came in 1983, in the form of a conversation

with a friend in one of Jackson’s mountain shops.

Our goal quickly became the North Face. I was

a boulderer-cum-crag rat with no mountain

experience and only the vaguest notion of what

the Grand entailed. My inexperience made the

Upper Exum, a route much easier than anything

on the North Face, the final choice. We climbed

the route roundtrip in two and a half days. I

was virtually guided up the route by my two

veteran friends. At one point while sharing an airy

belay, I gazed down at a few specks — mites in

red hats — creeping up the sheer rock. The

route, the Direct Exum, intersected our climb

after ascending six pitches of soaring granite.

It looked improbable and terribly exposed.

I was rendered speechless by the summit

views — a breathtaking, multi-state vista over-

looking the Wind River Range, Yellowstone, and

the sweeping plains of Idaho. The dizzying free

rappel down the Owen-Spaulding descent route

was equal parts nausea and exhilaration.

That first excursion on the Grand gave me a

coy taste of future enticements. I continued to

climb, finding my way among the crags of the

American West, into the mountains of Canada

and Alaska, and finally to the great ranges of

the world. Though it took 18 years for my return

visit, the goal in 2001 was the same — the North

Face. Early season runoff precluded our attempt.

Instead, my partner Jonathan and I turned to

the East Ridge — the elegant, 4,000-foot spine

dropping straight from the summit to treeline

just left of the North Face.

The view from Middle Teton looking toward theGrand. The Owen-Spaulding route ascends talusand rock slabs from the Lower Saddle (below)to the Upper Saddle (the central col) and turnsthe corner around the summit's left skyline.The Exum Ridge climbs the prominent spineright of center. P

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I’ll be honest. If you are an intermediate tradclimber or alpinist, buthaven’t climbed theGrand, you are blowing it.

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We hiked up endless switchbacks to the placid

Surprise Lake, just below treeline, camping in

the regal splendor of tall pines. Jonathan and I

woke before dawn and crawled over talus up into

the steep-sided maw of Glacier Gulch, a deep

canyon carved by the Teton Glacier on the

mountain’s north side. In dawn’s pink glow,

we stepped over a crew just rousing for an

attempt on the neighboring Mount Owen.

Jonathan and I soloed several thousand feet of

grassy, loose terrain leading to the technical

pitches skirting a rock tower called the Molar

Tooth. We picked through the complex maze

of moderate cracks and blocky faces, bypassing

the Molar Tooth proper. The crux was a series

of pitches ascending hand cracks and a jigsaw puz-

zle of gold granite plates. As I enjoyed yet another

solid jam, I looked north to neighboring Mount

Owen. The Grand’s heavy shadow cut the void

below us, lending depth to the vacuum.

Rock gave way to the upper snowfields,

where we filled our bottles from meltwater and

carried on. Mincing up the summit snowfield

in slick sneakers — sans ice axe or instep cram-

pons — was by far the scariest part of the ascent.

A final traverse ended with an awkward over-

hang, ass suspended 3,000 feet over the Teton

Glacier. It was hard to believe that Robert

Underhill and Ken Henderson first climbed our

route in 1936.

The summit offered jumbled, uncomfortable

blocks shared with a dozen others. On the East

Ridge, Jonathan and I had felt exposed and vul-

nerable — a sharp contrast to the homey, safety-

in-numbers feel of the summit.

We down-climbed the smooth granite of the

Owen-Spaulding on the west side, its handholds

polished by over a century of traffic. We bypassed

the infamous “Belly Roll” and “Crawl” ledge

with a long free rappel. Suddenly, the party

descending above released a volley of loose rock,

and Jonathan and I covered our heads as sev-

Allan Porter kicking steps up the First Snowfield, midway up the North Face.

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eral stones clattered past us. The most danger-

ous part of our climb came not from the moun-

tain’s fickle hazards, but from fellow climbers.

After the rappel, we hiked down to the Lower

Saddle. I had camped there on my ascent of the

Upper Exum two decades before, and remem-

bered enjoying a breathtaking sunrise from the

open-air toilet — the most uplifting bowel

movement I’ve ever experienced.

Though it was not our original route of

choice, our climb of the East Ridge epitomized

the Grand experience: a long route on a big

mountain, the exceptional climbing shared

with a faithful ropemate. The experience added

up to something greater than the sum of the

parts. What is that slippery reward? I can’t

define it, but I know I’ll go back. Maybe to

the North Face ...

Senior Contributing Editor Pete Takeda lives in

Boulder, Colorado.Circle No. 43 on the Reader Service Card.

Circle No. 72 on the Reader Service Card. Circle No. 58 on the Reader Service Card.


Lower Exum Ridge (5.7)This direct start to the Upper Exum Ridge was one of

first-ascentionist Jack Durrance’s best routes. Six excel-lent pitches lead to Wall Street ledge and the intersec-tion of the Upper Exum. Above, the landmark Wind Tunneland Friction Pitch (5.4) still guard the summit 1000 feet above.

Season. June through September is best; but thesouthern aspect of this route allows for comfortable con-ditions longer into the season. Watch out for wind.

Vertical gain and time needed. 7,000 feet, 2 to 3 days.Day one, hike from Lupine Meadows trailhead and campat the Petzoldt Caves or the Moraine tent sites. Day two,rise early and hit the route, trying to beat the crowds andthe afternoon thunderstorms. You can then descend fromcamp back to the trailhead, or camp another night.

Clothing and footwear. Sticky-rubber approach shoeswill suffice for the Upper Exum. If you’re climbing theDirect Exum, bring rock shoes as well. Bottoms: Shorts forthe approach, synthetic tights, and lightweight water-proof pants. Top: Long underwear top, fleece vest, mid-weight fleece jacket, and storm shell. Plus a warm hatand mid-weight gloves that you can climb in.

Gear. One skinny 60-meter rope will get you up anddown the Owen-Spaulding rappel; 7 nuts racked on onebiner; 5 to 7 cams, up to a #2 Camalot, racked individu-ally; 6 to 8 shoulder-length slings; 6 quickdraws; 2 to 3cordelettes for anchors and emergency rappels; helmet,harness, belay device, chalk bag and 2 to 3 locking binersper person.

Water. There is running water along most of theapproach trail. Water can be found near the Meadows,Moraine and Lower Saddle campsites. Treat it.

Route strategy. Camp at the Moraine or PetzoldtCaves campsites rather than the Lower Saddle; they’re lesswindy and exposed to storms. Start early to avoid crowdsand storms. If the route is crowded, other options thatgain the Upper Exum include the Burgette Arete and thePetzoldt Ridge, or scramble around left to gain the routeat Wall Street. Here at the start of the Upper Exum, theroute can accommodate several parties at once.

Tetons essentials for all routes:Standard descent. The Owen-Spaulding is the standarddescent for all climbers, so be sure to carry a topo of theroute. From the summit, scramble south and then back northto the Sargent Chimney (4th class or optional rappel). Fromhere, 3rd class down west to the rappel slings. Rappel 100feet to the Upper Saddle, or reverse the O-S crux. From theUpper Saddle, avoid the steep gully under the southwestface. It ends in a cliff and has resulted in several fatal falls.Also avoid the west-most gully, called the Idaho Express —it has been the scene of many accidents. Descend directlysouth toward the Lower Saddle. Descend from the LowerSaddle via the fixed rope.

Permits. A permit is required for all overnight campingin the park, and is available on a first-come basis at theJenny Lake Ranger Station (307-739-3300). Sites fill upquickly at the Lower Saddle and Moraine.

Guidebooks. A Climbers’ Guide To The Teton Range,third edition, by Leigh Orten-burger & Renny Jackson,is the most com-prehensive guide.Teton Classics: 50 Selected Climbs inthe Grand Tetons, by Richard Rossiter,covers the area’s most popular routes.

Guide services. Jackson Hole

Mountain Guides: 800-239-7642, jhmg.com. Exum Moun-tain Guides: 307-733-2297, exumguides.com.

Jackson climbing shops. Skinny Skis, 65 W. Deloney,307-733-6094, skinnyskis.com. Teton Rock Gym, 1116 MapleWay, 307-733-0707. Teton Mountaineering, 170 N Cache,800-850-3595, tetonmountaineering.com, see retailer list-ing page 109.

Lodging. The Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, run by TheAmerican Alpine Club, offers dormitory-style

accommodations for $8 per night. OpenJune 1 to September 30. Contact: 307-733-7271, americanalpineclub.org/pro-

grams/ranchhut_teton.shtml.

Guide’s beta on climbing the Grand Teton By Greg Collins, Jackson Hole Mountain Guides

Greg Collins has climbed the Grand Teton over 100 times,by 28 different routes. He is a guide for Jackson HoleMountain Guides in Jackson, Wyoming, offering sum-mit climbs on the Grand Teton and beyond. Contact:800-239-7642, jhmg.com.


Owen-Spaulding (5.4)This is the original route on the Grand Teton, first

climbed over a century ago. It requires a technical tra-verse and 5th-class rock at high altitude, and route-find-ing challenges. West-facing, the upper part of the routeis prone to icing and is usually cold.

Season. June through September is best; the O-S isalso the most popular way to make winter ascents.

Vertical gain and time needed. 7,000 feet, 2 to 3 days.Day one, hike from Lupine Meadows trailhead and campat the Lower Saddle or the Moraine tent sites. Day two,rise early and hit the route, trying to beat the crowds andthe afternoon thunderstorms. You can then descend fromcamp back to the trailhead, or camp another night.

Clothing and footwear. Sticky-rubber approach shoes.Possibly crampons and ice axes. Bottoms: Shorts for theapproach, synthetic tights, and lightweight waterproofpants. Top: Long underwear top, fleece vest, mid-weightfleece jacket, and storm shell. Plus a warm hat and mid-weight gloves that you can climb in. Do not skimp! The shadycold and wind can be bitter.

Gear. One light 60-meter rope, 7 nuts, a few small-to mid-sized cams, six shoulder-length slings, two to threequickdraws, 2 cordelettes, helmet, harness, belay device,and a few biners per person.

Water. There is running water along most of theapproach trail, and near the Meadows, Moraine and LowerSaddle campsites. Be sure to treat it.

Route strategy. Even though the O-S is the normalroute, route-finding is still tricky. Study the guidebooksand avoid icy conditions. Route conditions are posted atthe Jenny Lake Ranger Station.

The route-finding begins above the Lower Saddle atthe Black Dike. A good trail becomes enjoyable 2nd classscrambling. Drift left into the central gully. Try to find a rope-less way right through the Eye of the Needle area. Guidedparties usually rope up for the Briggs Slab, a 30-foot 5.2face. The talus tunnel of the “Eye” is south of this. Anotheroption is the “Sack of Potatoes” just north. Avoid the maindrainage. Early season ascents sometimes go left towarda col of a thumb-shaped tower.

After this barrier is passed, scramble the central gullyor the black spur on the right up to the Upper Saddle.Scramble east from the saddle to the rope-up spot beneaththe rappel. Traverse north on belay, making the landmarkBelly Roll and Crawl moves before climbing up into theblocky Double Chimney. Then continue up the Owen Chim-ney or right along the slabby Cat Walk. Two to three pitcheswill have you at Sargent’s Chimney, climb up and leftthrough this. Above, scramble up and right to the summit.

The northwest aspect of the Grand. The Owen-Spauldingclimbs up and left from the Upper Saddle v-notch.

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Direct North Face(5.8 with snow/glacier challenges)

Aptly referred to as Eiger nordwand of the Lower 48,the North Face presents all the hazards and rewards ofa classic north wall. The real difficulty of this “5.8” routeis putting it all together. You will need good conditions,a quick transition from the glacier to the wall, accurateroute-finding, swift simul-climbing on the ledges, andstrength for the final direct pitches. The 5.8 crux maywell be the least of your difficulties.

Season. Most ascents are made in July and Augustwhen there is less snow and more dry rock. Only 4 or 5winter ascents have been made. June is snowy but pos-sibly classic. Freezing temperatures will reduce rockfalland icefall hazards on the lower pitches.

Vertical gain and time needed. 7,000 feet, two tothree days. Use a day to approach and a long day for theroute. A third day could be used for retrieving bivy gearat the base.

Clothing and footwear. Bring what you would wearfor the Exum Ridge and then some, as the route can becold. Sticky-rubber shoes with lightweight strap-on cram-pons recommended, and rock shoes.

Gear. Helmet, crampons, light ice axe. Light 60-meterrope, 10 nuts, five to seven cams, free biners and sevenquickdraws, eight shoulder-length slings, cordelettes,harness, belay device, chalk bag.

Water. There is water below the route, from the melt-ing Teton glacier. In warm conditions, water can be foundrunning from the snowfield on the First Ledge, midway upthe route.

Approach. From Lupine Meadows parking area, fol-low the trail to Surprise and Amphitheater Lakes. Camphere or continue west on a climber’s path under the northside of Disappointment Peak into the boulders of GlacierGulch. Camp at the foot of the East Ridge, and use the extradaylight to scout the start of the route — it can be trickyin the dark.

Route strategy. Climb the terminal moraine of theTeton Glacier at the East Ridge of the Grand. A variationstart that avoids the Teton Glacier begins at the far leftside of the North Face; climb a 40-foot shallow corner(5.8 or so) to a large grassy ledge leading up and right, join-ing the lower pitches of the route. For the standard start,climb 35-degree snow and ice up the glacier toward Gun-sight Notch, then traverse south toward the North Faceand the bergschrund. The bergschrund can be difficultand is usually passed on the left.

Once on the rock, climb up gullies and trend right,toward the Guano Chimney. Rockfall is a threat from above.Better climbing starts here in the Guano Chimney. Traversethe First Ledge on the snow, staying low; in dry seasons youcan traverse below the snow on low-angle rock.

From the west edge of the First Ledge, step right andclimb quality rock to the Second Ledge. Follow your noseup and right through wet, possibly icy rock ramps untilyou reach the base of the Pendulum Pitch. A short cornerbecomes a pumpy hand traverse left. Perfect rock andexcellent fixed protection makes for a nice crux pitch. Ashort rock ramp will take you to the “V” pitch and a facemove left. After this, the route becomes a short, high-altitude scramble to the summit.

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The Tetons climbs are all about route-finding. No peak in the range requires tech-nical climbing ability beyond 5.8, but if you’reoff-route, you might find yourself on grov-elly 5.10. Here are some helpful hints forstaying on the right route:

•Do your homework before starting theclimb. Read the guidebooks, talk to climbingrangers or people who are familiar with theroute, study photos and make a sketch ofthe topo.

•When you study the photos, pay atten-tion to big features that you’ll be able to

pick out once on the mountain. Ridges, pin-nacles, water drainages, snow patches (con-sider the time of year), saddles and otherfeatures make good landmarks that you canreference on the approach and on the route.However, rock features like corners, chim-neys or cracks are easy to mistake andshouldn’t be relied on as landmarks — toooften, you’ll think that the micro-feature infront of your face is the one you had pickedout from the photo.

•Do your best to take the time to roveahead and figure out the route before com-mitting to it. For example, from your highcamp, find the start of the Lower Exum Ridgethe afternoon before so you are familiar withthe way — this will make your pre-dawnapproach hassle-free.

•In the Tetons, if you’re trying a popularroute and you’re amidst extensive grass orvegetation, you’re off-route. Retrace yoursteps back to where the ledges and vege-tation are trampled.

•Similarly, if you’re climbing anythingharder than trad 5.8, you’re off-route.

•While the new LED headlamps are greatfor saving weight while hiking and camp-ing, they don’t have a powerful beam. Atleast one member of the party should havea halogen headlamp for route-finding.

•Don’t always rely on cairns. Over theyears, lost parties have built cairns in somepretty misleading places.

Finally, if you’ve tried a route like theNorth Face or the North Ridge and been baf-fled simply trying to find the route, save yourpennies until you can hire a guide. Manyhave commented that the experienced guid-ance was well worth the money.

Mark Newcomb is a veteran guide for ExumMountain Guides, located in Grand TetonNational Park. Contact: 307-733-2297,exumguides.com.

Local’s beta from Exum Mountain Guide Mark Newcomb

The North Face rising above the Teton Glacier. Theoriginal start climbs the glacier to the high left pointto reach the rock. An alternate start (dotted line)avoids the glacier by gaining a diagonalling rockledge from the lower left.TY

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You’d have to be pretty sleep-deprived to fall into a crevasse

you can see, but the hidden ones are another story. In my 30

years of guiding on glaciated terrain like Denali and Mount

Rainier, I’ve managed to blow the call several times. The tips below

will help you locate hidden crevasses, but they aren’t guaranteed to

keep you out of a deep, dark hole. Learn the basics of crevasse rescue

and always climb with enough gear and partners to stage a rescue.

•Look for subtle terrain features, like slumping, cracking or faint

swells, in the surface layer of ice or snow — any or all of these may

indicate the edges of a crevasse. Pay particular attention to features

that run in roughly parallel lines.

•Approach a suspected crevasse from a perpendicular angle, with

the most experienced climber leading the way. Have everyone take in

slack by stepping away from each other, so they can execute a full-

team arrest if needed, rather than having just the second man hold

the fall. If the terrain demands an anchor, take the time to make it a

good one — a boot-axe belay isn’t sufficient for holding crevasse falls.

•The leader should probe the suspect snow, searching for soft spots or

holes that indicate the fissure’s boundaries. An axe may work, but a ski pole

is a better choice in deep snow. I prefer leaving the basket on the pole in

very soft or slushy conditions, which gives me more consistent resistance.

•I often see novice climbers on Mount Rainier and Denali crossing

thin, cracked or slumping snow bridges. If the most-traveled path

looks dicey, don’t be afraid to make a diversion. Glaciers change con-

stantly and there’s not just one “right” way to go.

•In big-crevasse terrain, I sometimes dig a diagonal tunnel from

near the lip and poke my head through to where I can scout the

inside of a crevasse. This vantage helps me judge the thickness of

snowbridges and whether they connect securely to the sides, and

gives me a better idea of how much the lip overhangs.

•When crossing a snowbridge with a hole, step directly over a hole,

instead of next to it. Keep a tight rope and make sure everyone walks

in the same footprints.

Eric Simonson has guided since 1973 and is certified in Skiing and

Alpine Climbing by the AMGA. He is a co-owner of International Moun-

tain Guides (800-909-6647, mountainguides.com) and guides on Rainier

with Mount Rainier Alpine Guides (360-569-2889, rainierguides.com). He

has guided 271 successful ascents of Rainier and over 85 expeditions,

including 16 on Denali.

AMGA.com

Taking the plungeLESSONS IN CREVASSE CROSSING AND ASSESSMENT

By Eric Simonson

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For moderately steep rock, snow and ice, it’s hard to beatthe comfort and performance of general-duty mountain boots.


ast and light — the modern alpinist’s mantra — begins

with footwear. Far lighter than full plastics or other boots

meant for extreme cold, general-duty mountaineering

boots are the way to go for tackling mid-grade alpine

routes in reasonable temperatures. Their somewhat flexible soles and for-

giving uppers are more comfortable on approaches than fully rigid

leather or plastic boots, but they still

have enough stiffness to handle steep

passages. The models in this review mate

with hybrid crampons (step-in heel bail,

straps over the toes) instead of full step-

ins (bail bindings only). Many boast

breathable fabrics, fiberglass insoles and

other lightweight materials (they all weigh

less than five pounds for a pair of men’s

11.5s), and their comfortable lasts con-

tour to the shape of your foot without

the bulk or break-in time of stiffer boots.

To account for different foot shapes

and climbing preferences, we recruited

a small panel of testers to stomp around

in the 11,000-foot peaks of northern

New Mexico’s Sangre de Cristo Moun-

tains, Oregon’s Three Sisters Wilderness

Area and the Colorado Rockies. Condi-

tions ranged from muddy trails to ver-

tical rock and ice. When the fun part

was over, we used the following criteria

to calculate a boot’s overall rating:

Support. Good mountain boots

have enough rigidity to keep tender

feet and vulnerable ankles safe from

the rigors of crossing talus and wearing

crampons. Ideally, there should be

enough flex for comfortable hiking, but the platform should also be

firm enough that your calves don’t explode on steep terrain, even

during moderate front-pointing.

Weight. With most mountaineering equipment — tents, sleeping bags

and stoves — comfort increases with weight. Not so with footwear:

Lighter is better, but not to the point where support becomes inadequate.

KEN

NAN

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Das BootWelcome to the era of lightweight, comfortable mountaineering boots.By Tim Neville

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Construction. If your boots don’t have the guts to withstand a

good bashing, who cares if they weigh next to nothing? We looked at

the overall quality of construction, including the care used in stitching

and gluing, and took note of lacing systems, tongue padding and

other important details.

Warmth. We tested boots on slushy trails, cold hardpack and deep

powder in temperatures averaging around 25 degrees. These boots aren’t

designed for really cold weather, rather for three-season alpine routes.

Waterproofness. Waterproof/breathable liners don’t mean much

if the outer layers soak through, so waterproofable uppers earned

higher marks than boots that use a liner to make

up for leaky seamwork.

Climbing Performance. We scrutinized

each boot’s performance on rock and snow, at

angles varying from easy slopes to vertical

pitches. Sticky-rubber rands are a plus on

rock, but a nimble design and a precise

fit for scrambling are the most impor-

tant factors in this category.

Fit. A boot’s fit is the key to com-

fort. While we can’t rate the boots

for fit — it obviously varies —

we have noted the relative width

and volume of each model. A good

retail shop is your best resource for select-

ing the exact size and shape of boot for your feet.

All weights are Rock and Ice’s for a pair of men’s size 11.5.

Kayland Multitraction, $2994 pounds, 6 ounces

Supportive and reasonably stiff, these medium-width, medium-vol-

ume boots were great to climb in and didn’t compromise comfort on

long approaches. The nimble feel stems from an asymmetrical climb-

ing-shoe last that allows the big toe, the foundation of balance and pre-

cise foot placement, to drive each step. The 2.6- to 2.8-millimeter

Nubuck leather uppers hugged our feet securely on rocky trails, and

the gently rockered Vibram Kommando lugs gripped hard-pack snow

and slippery rocks with aplomb.

The Multitraction features a fiberglass shank that’s just the right rigid-

ity to use with hybrid crampons on pitches up to about 70 degrees.

A low-profile sticky rand, combined with a slim, clean, toe were great

for climbing cracks. The boot breathes fairly well, thanks to Kay-

land’s own waterproof/breathable liner material, called Proof.

Open-cell foam insulation kept one of our editor’s dogs warm on

a long zero-degree day in Colorado. Though they don’t come

cheap, the Kayland Multitractions are an outstanding blend of

minimal weight and maximum performance. Kayland: 800-567-

6777, kayland.com.

Overall rating:

Best overall

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Garmont Tower GTX, $2194 pounds, 4 ounces

This boot wowed testers — it’s one of the sturdiest, lightest designs

in the review. The materials are nicely matched: A thin (1.8 mm) suede

and synthetic upper teams with a full-length fiberglass shank to create

a boot that kept our calves from combusting on a steep scrambles with-

out being so stiff as to make us walk like Frankenstein on the hike in. The

shank begins in the heel and tapers down under the ball of your foot,

lending torsional strength without sacrificing foot flex: These boots ate

up rocky traverses. On technical moves, a sticky-rubber rand and a

Vibram sole provided excellent traction. A Gore-Tex bootie keeps toes

warm and dry, though that thin suede upper, riddled with a lot of seams

and just a dollop of foam insulation, doesn’t leave much of a barrier

between feet and the weather. Cold-prone toes might not be entirely happy:

Mine got chilled after an hour of post-holing through a sloppy snowfield.

The relatively wide last is closer to a standard hiking-boot last than

a climbing-shoe last. Consequentially, the GTX rolled a bit on small

edges. While the supple uppers make for cushy hiking, one tester

with bad ankles felt they didn’t provide enough support on rugged

downhills. Everyone agreed that the sole was solid enough

for secure front-pointing on steep slopes. A plastic tab

protecting the back of the heel allows you to tighten

the rear bail as much as you’d like. Garmont USA:

802-658-8322, garmontusa.com.

Overall rating:

La Sportiva Glacier, $2254 pounds, 6 ounces

This fairly low-volume boot (the width is moderately narrow) proved

to be one of the most comfortable hikers in the field. Even straight

out of the box, the Perwanger leather uppers were flexible and comfy

enough to wear on a four-hour backcountry snowshoeing trek in Col-

orado’s Rocky Mountain National Park. The quality

uppers consistently kept our feet dry in sloppy,

wet conditions and provided decent ankle sup-

port without binding or being overly restric-

tive. The slightly rockered Vibram Ice-Trek sole

gripped securely on rock and snow.

The Glaciers shined on approaches, but

they also handled technical climbing sit-

uations fairly well. A half-length steel

shank provides just enough rigid-

ity for steep slopes and light

crampon work. A few

models, like Kayland’s

Multitraction, had

Best value

Stacking was nevercleaner

Leeper Z-nailerEd Leeper • 6112 Fourmile Canyon • Boulder, CO 80302 • 303/442-3773

The Tower GTX islight and rugged.

The Glacier delivers outstanding comfortand solid performance.




enough extra stiffness to outperform the Glaciers on near-vertical ter-

rain. On the other hand, the Glaciers were perfect for climbing 30- to

50-degree slopes where foot flex is key for efficiency. A high rubber rand

lent an extra measure of protection and traction for rock scrambles,

and the excellent fit meant the boot held an edge surprisingly well. La

Sportiva North America: 303-443-8710, sportiva.com.

Overall rating:

Tecnica Dunagiri GTX, $2404 pounds, 12 ounces

Stomp around in a pair of these for a few

hours and you’ll notice that the Dunagiri

GTXs provide copious warmth and pro-

tection in a reasonably light package.

You’ll also notice that the 2.2- to 2.4-

millimeter Perwanger leather thermo-

molded uppers swaddle your

ankle bones in anatomically

correct padding — they’re

the best boots in the review

for folks with weak ankles.

Using one material for the

uppers — instead of a tex-

tile patchwork — helps

the boot hold its shape

even after a good soak-

ing. The Vibram Ice Trek

sole lives up to its name:

The boot held like a Panzer while traversing snow slopes and marched

securely up rock and talus. The boot also has a surprisingly low vol-

ume and narrow width, but it still isn’t as nimble as the Kaylands or Gar-

monts because of all that thick leather and chunky traction.

Despite their bulk, the GTXs edged decently, and a sticky-rubber

rand at the toe — but only at the toe — gives a touch of extra protection

and grip. While they held solidly on front points with almost zero heel

slippage, some might find these relatively stiff boots too clunky for

comfortable hiking. Tecnica: 603-298-8032, tecnicausa.com.

Overall rating:

Lowa Alpine Guide, $2304 pounds, 3 ounces

Though they’re quite light, the Alpine Guides are by no means

wimpy, featuring 2.4-millimeter split leather uppers, a sticky-rubber

rand that protects the toe and extends high up the heel for extra sup-

port, and Vibram’s Ice Trek sole. The medium-width, low-volume fit, par-

ticularly the low-cut ankles, make the boot quite nimble when bounding

along boulder fields. The boots also boast great attention to detail,

such as small bearings in the lace eyelets that reduce friction and

make cinching them down a snap.

A full-length nylon insole provides enough rigidity for

low-angle slopes, but on steeper climbs my ankles

slipped considerably — beyond the 45-degree mark

I worried my crampons might actually pop off

under so much flex in the sole (they didn’t, but I

wouldn’t tackle multiple steep pitches in the Alpine

Tecnica’s boot offersPanzer-like traction.

Circle No. 46 on the Reader Service Card.Circle No. 30 on the Reader Service Card.

Guides). The Cordura uppers barely cover the entire ankle joint, mak-

ing the boots truly hiker-friendly, but compromising stability on trav-

erses. Lowa’s Outlast lining, a thermal fabric that helps distribute

warmth throughout the boot, provided adequate insulation. The

upshot: The Alpine Guides are a lighter version of the Tecnica Duna-

giri and a good choice for rugged backpacking or climbs with mostly

scrambling and relatively short stretches of steep

crampon work. Lowa: 888-335-5692, lowaboots.com.

Overall rating:

Asolo MTF 650 GTX, $2104 pounds, 14 ounces

Asolo bills these as fit for “heavy-duty backpacking,” but the MTFs

have the credentials to carry you off the trail and to the top of

countless summits — especially ones that don’t require lots of tech-

nical climbing. The unique MTF (“multi-frame”) construction uses

polyurethane frames in the midsole to provide flexibility under the ball

of the foot and stiffness around the heel. Testers couldn’t tell much of

a difference between the specially produced Vibram soles and the tread

on other boots, but to be fair I’ll admit that I was impressed with the

way the MTFs clung to a steep, snow-covered slope.

The workmanship on these boots was excellent. The 2.2- to 2.4-

millimeter Perwanger leather uppers on these medium-volume, slightly

narrow-fitting boots kept our tootsies toasty warm in temperatures

down to the low teens. The general shape feels similar to Tecnica’s

Dunagiri GTX design, with a somewhat roomier toe box (great for

walking, but not so good for edging performance). Their backpack-

ing sensibility permitted too much flex for secure front-pointing, but

the extra flex was a nice feature on rock slabs. Testers wanted better sup-

port for less weight — they’re the heaviest

boots in the review. The MTF sizing runs

about a half-size smaller than other brands’.

Asolo: 603-448-8827, asolo-usa.com.

Overall rating:


A solid backpacker’s boot, the MTF 650 also has decentclimbing credentials.

The Alpine Guide is a nimble, low-cut boot.


Kayland Multitraction $299 4 lbs 6 oz Y 5 4 5 5 5

Garmont Tower GTX $219 4 lbs 4 oz Y 4 3 5 5 4.5

La Sportiva Glacier $225 4 lbs 6 oz N 3 3 5 3 4

Tecnica Dunagiri GTX $240 4 lbs 12 oz Y 4 5 4 4 4

Lowa Alpine Guide $230 4 lbs 3 oz N 3 3 5 3 3

Asolo MTF 650 GTX $210 4 lbs 14 oz Y 3 3 4 3 2.5

General-duty mountain boots:how they stack up.

Best overall

Garmont Tower GTX

Best value

Model Pric

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Kayland Multitraction


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Lowa Civetta Extreme

Manufacturer/Model Price Weight Materials Contact Information

Asolo Ottomila $400 5lbs, 2oz Thermoplastic, Thinsulate 603-448-8827, asolo-usa.comBoreal G1 $395 5lbs, 13oz Leather, Thinsulate 949-498-1011, borealusa.comKoflach Arctis Expe $355 6lbs Thermoplastic, open-/closed-cell foam 800, 258-5020, koflachusa.comLowa Civetta Extreme $385 5lbs, 7oz Thermoplastic, Gore-Tex, closed-cell foam 203-353-0116, lowaboots.comSalomon Pro Thermic $390 5lbs, 14oz Leather, Thinsulate, closed-cell foam 800-654-2668, salomonsports.comScarpa Alpha $350 4lbs, 14oz Thermoplastic, open-cell foam 801-278-5533, scarpa-us.comVasque Ice 9000 $495 4lbs, 14 oz Thermoplastic, Kevlar, closed-cell foam 800-224-4453, vasque.com

* These boots were not tested; they are included here as a reference for our readers looking for cold-weather boots.

Toe saversThese double boots are the footwear of choice for expeditionsand technical climbing in extremely cold weather.

Hire an

AMGA certified

guide to

take

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Wish you wereHere?

3 0 3 . 2 7 1 . 0 9 8 4W W W . A M G A . C O M

Photo by Cosley/H

ouston

Scarpa Alpha Vasque Ice 9000

Circle No. 31 on the Reader Service Card. Circle No. 64 on the Reader Service Card. Circle No. 33 on the Reader Service Card.


Arrgh, how much farther to the top? Doug Byerly and Doug Heinrich putting their legs to the test on Athabasca's Silverthorn, Canadian Rockies.

PERFORMANCE

Sometime shortly after the sun rose, cast-

ing molten light across the slope, the sour

pain started to sink in. My partners and

I had been working our way up Rainier’s Ingra-

ham Direct for about four hours by this point,

weaving our way through the crevasse fields

and around frozen seracs. It had been a chal-

lenging climb, but now those last thousand

feet of rolling summit snowfields just seemed

to go on and on.

It hurt — mountaineering always does —

but for a change I was actually having fun.

And no, not the type of fun that’s only enjoy-

able when it’s over. Why? I was in the best

shape of my life. For four months I’d kept up

a steady diet of staccato heart rates and discipline

aimed to get me and my partners up four Cas-

cades volcanoes in nine days.

In general, climbers tend to be a fit lot with-

out the steady training, but mountaineering

places specific demands on your body — specif-

ically, your legs, lungs and heart. No amount

of natural talent can replace the training these

engines require.

I talked to professional alpinists Peter Whit-

taker, Nancy Feagin and Pete Athans to learn

how they get in shape, and stay strong. From

laying an aerobic base to boosting endurance

and power, these climbers shared their training

tips for waging a successful summit bid against

the lactic-acid-laced voices that scream to turn

you around. For best results, you’ll want a two-

to three-month training window before your goal

climb. Heck, with the top fitness you’ll gain

from their advice, you might even find time

on your route to enjoy the views.

The best shape of your lifeIF YOU’RE FIT, MOUNTAINEERING CAN ACTUALLY BE (DARE WE SAY IT?) FUN. THREE PROS SHARE THEIR TRAINING TIPS FOR BECOMING AN ALPINE POWERHOUSE.By Tim Neville

Reviewed

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PERFORMANCE

Laying a baseBUILDING THE MOUNTAINEERINGFOUNDATION WITH PETERWHITTAKER

Peter Whittaker, 44, has climbed Mount

Rainier 205 times in the 27 years he’s been

guiding for Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. As

soon as a client signs up for a trip, he lays out

a basic training program. “On day one, you

don’t want to do a 14-hour hike with a 60-

pound pack,” he says. “We stress slow and

steady, focusing on cardio work.” In other words,

you need a base upon which you can later build

high-intensity workouts.

If you’re science-minded, you may want to

use a heart rate monitor to gauge your training

intensity, working at around 70 percent of your

maximum heart rate. Many folks prefer a more

intuitive approach — simply limit your effort

to a range where you can talk comfortably while

exercising.

Hiking and trail running are intrinsically good

training for mountaineering because they use

similar muscles. Cycling is another good option,

and it doesn’t stress your knees as much as hik-

ing or running. Spin classes offered at most gyms

are great alternatives if you can’t make it out-

side during the day. Mix it up — the most potent

landmine on your path to fitness is boredom.

Ideally you’d be able to hike with a pack on.

“Even in a gym, working out on a StairMaster,

try to wear a pack,” Whittaker says. “You can be

in the best shape of your life, but as soon as

you add a pack, it can be a real shocker.”

Also, as you gain strength, begin wearing

the boots you’ll be climbing in. On the moun-

tain, you’ll have boots, crampons, gaiters and

various layers of pants, all of which add up to

a lot of weight and resistance. Once you become

comfortable working out with the weight of

your mountain boots, you can add ankle weights

to simulate the weight of crampons.

• First two to three weeks. Hike or trail

run for about 30 minutes three days a week.

This should feel relatively easy, like you are

barely breaking a sweat. Slow it down on the

steep sections to keep your heart from any-

where near red-lining. “When you climb Rainier,

it’s a 30-hour event,” Whittaker says. “You’re

resting and not moving for only six of those

hours, but you never really get your heart rate

way up; it’s a longer and more drawn-out effort.”

Twice a week, do basic core-strength train-

ing on days you aren’t hiking or running. (See

strength training in the following section.)

• Weeks three and four. Hike or run for

about 30 minutes three days a week, now bump-

ing up your pace to where you are breathing

harder but can still hold a brief conversation.

Toward the end of week three or at a point

where you are feeling stronger, start working in

two-minute sprints four times during the work-

out. Be careful here as these can hurt you if

you are not ready. Train an extra week if your

body isn’t ready. You’ll know. We’ll talk more about

intervals and rigorous endurance training in

the next section.

Peter Whittaker has guided hundreds ofpeople to the summit of Mount Rainier.On 10,000-vertical-foot peaks like that,fitness is the crucial element to succes.

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PERFORMANCE

Once you’ve got your foundation, it’s time to

crank up your workouts to increase your overall

endurance. This fitness will enable you to climb

steep slopes for hours without squandering your

reserves for the way back down.

For Nancy Feagin, a 36-year-old climber

whose résumé includes summiting Everest, a

one-day linkup of El Capitan and Half Dome,

and a one-day ascent of the North Ridge of the

Grand Teton, interval training forms the back-

bone of her training program. The sprints that

you started earlier are what make you stronger

and capable of increasing your heart rate to

higher levels without feeling completely taxed.

“I think people tend to train quantity and

not quality,” says Feagin. “Instead of doing a

two-hour run everyday, you should do one hour

every other day and work in intervals.”

• Month two. Bump up your hiking, cycling

or trail running to 45 to 90 minutes a session

four days a week, being sure to work in a

steady regimen of regular intervals, or high-

intensity pushes, for two of those sessions.

Feagin’s intervals are intense, with one minute

of running or biking at high speed, and then

a minute or two to recover before doing it

again. Certainly this is a good goal to keep in

mind, but jacking your heart rate up for about

two minutes every 10 will also yield notice-

able gains in endurance — and is more achiev-

able for workaday people.

• Once a week, make one of your training

sessions a daylong activity that will keep your heart

rate up for extended periods of time. Feagin,

like Whittaker, says the best way to do that is to

spend the day hiking and scrambling in the hills

with a 30- to 40-pound pack. “Any heavier than

that and it’s just too miserable,” she says. If you

don’t live near the hills, a long bike ride is a

good alternative.

• Mix up your workouts by hiking steep hills

or stadium steps with a pack filled with water jugs.

• Twice a week hit the weight room for

strength training (see next section).

• Set small goals. By month two, your moti-

vation to train may begin to wane. Having an

immediate and tangible reward, however, will

help keep you on track. Feagin does this by set-

ting her sights on climbing a local peak next

weekend or riding 75 miles of hilly terrain by

Saturday. Thinking of the short-term benefits

keeps you on track better than focusing on a

complex goal unfolding in the distant future

(like climbing Denali next summer).

A world-class rock rat and alpinist, Nancy Feagin uses interval training to push her endurance.

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PERFORMANCE

Breaking out of theplateauSTRENGTH TRAINING WITHPETE ATHANS

“Staring down a bunch of gold-chain-dan-

gling, wise-guy wannabes at the weight room

isn’t exactly the most endearing image to climbers

who revel in the natural world,” quips Pete

Athans, who has participated in a whopping

11 expeditions to Everest, seven of which saw

him reach the top. So why bother going to the

gym, then? Says Athans: “To be able to jump

everything up to the next level.”

Months two and three. After several weeks

of pushing your aerobic training, you’ll even-

tually find yourself hitting a plateau that you

just can’t seem to push beyond. Power train-

ing is the quickest way to push through this

impasse. It’s those sessions in the gym, sweat-

ing under a barbell and pushing yourself in

anaerobic workouts, where you’ll find the key to

increasing overall performance.

Athans, 45, says the best strength workouts

incorporate free-weight routines rather than

machines, because they involve your body’s

supporting muscles. Leave your ego in the locker

room and consider hiring a trainer for your first

session; he or she can help perfect your form

for the best return on your effort.

Twice a week, focus on increasing core

strength. Your core, or torso, is the con-

trol center for your legs and arms. Do at

least three sets of abdominal and back

exercises with higher repetitions and less

weight (see examples below). Once a

week, add in workouts to tire muscles in

your chest and arms, such as bench

presses and dips. On the other day, work

in exercises to challenge your legs, such

as squats, and your back, such as pull-

ups. Keep doing the core work every day

you’re in the weight room. Be sure to

alternate between pushing and pulling

exercises so you don’t end up with unbal-

anced strength, which can lead to injury.

Some exercises to consider:

• Crunches. Do at least three sets of

12 crunches (sit-ups with your legs bent

and ankles resting on a bench or fitness ball).

• Medicine ball lifts. Stand with

your feet shoulder width apart with a

medicine ball next to your right foot.

Reach down, pick it up, and lift it across

your chest and over your left shoulder as

if you were going to throw it over that

shoulder. Do these slowly and deliber-

ately for three sets of about 25 for each

side, feeling the movement work your stomach,

back, and sides.

• Lunges. Holding dumbbells in each hand

(use enough weight so you’re near failure after

10 or 15 repetitions), walk slowly across a room

with a dramatic stride, touching one knee to

the floor with each step. For extra arm work,

curl the dumbbells as you squat down.

• Upright rows. Stand upright holding a

barbell in front of your waist, with arms less

than shoulder width apart. Lift the bar straight

up to your chin, with your elbows sticking out

to your sides. Do three sets of eight to 10 reps.

These will work your shoulder muscles to ready

them for hauling a heavy pack.

• Push-ups on a fitness ball. They look

goofy, but the huge balls used in gym classes help

work your core. Place both feet on the ball and

try to do three sets of about 15 push-ups. Feel-

ing cocky? Try raising one leg off the ball.

• Don’t forget to stretch. Most impor-

tantly, says Athans, is to increase your flexibility

as you increase your strength. Even simple

stretches like touching your toes or doing a

basic series of yoga moves will help. “When you

see most people working out in the weight

room, they just move the pile; they don’t focus

on flexibility,” he says. “Strength training with-

out stretching is counterproductive.” ◆

Pete Athans has held this victory pose seventimes now on the summit of Everest. He creditsweight-room exercises with cranking his fitnessto higher levels.

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Avoiding altitudesickness — essentialtips from Ed ViestursBy Tim Neville

Altitude sickness is one of those unsolved myster-ies. No one is exactly sure what causes some peopleto suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) whileothers acclimatize more easily. For 43-year-old Ed Vies-turs, however, the trigger behind the illness is no mys-tery at all. “Going too high too fast,” says the Washingtonclimber, who has climbed 12 8,000-meter peaks (outof 14 on the planet), including Everest three timeswithout oxygen. “A lot of times, before people even geton the mountain, they are trekking in too fast, theyget sick, and then they’re behind the eight ball.”

• When in doubt, climb slowly. Viesturs, who’sguided countless clients to the top of Rainier during his12-year tenure at Rainier Mountaineering, Inc. and wit-nessed scores of altitude-related illnesses, suggeststaking three or four days to climb the 14,410-foot peak.If you’re coming from sea level and are particularly wor-ried about getting ill, the best scenario, he says, wouldbe to fly in and spend the night in a hotel at Paradise trail-head, at about 5,000 feet. The next day you could hikeup the trail toward Camp Muir (approximately 10,000 feet),returning to spend the night at Paradise again. Beginyour climb the next day, spending the night at Muir orequally as high on other routes.

“If you wake up in the morning at Muir and you’renot feeling great, but you’re not feeling terrible either,spend another day at Muir and try to stick it out,”Viesturs says.

On the other hand, Viesturs says that 85 to 90percent of the clients he’s guided report no prob-lems with just blasting up Rainier without all theprep time. “You’re up and back so fast that it’s almostlike your body doesn’t have time to register what’sgoing on,” he says. Don’t try this on true high-altitudepeaks, though, cautions Viesturs — you’re more sus-ceptable to illness.

• Pay attention to your health. Viesturs saysclimbers simply need to listen to their bodies for signsof Acute Mountain Sickness, which includes a nag-ging headache, shortness of breath, nausea and insom-nia. AMS can sneak up on anyone regardless of howmany times they’ve been to high altitudes. Ignoring itcan lead to High Altitude Pulmonary Edema, a life-threatening illness. Symptoms include rattly noises inthe lungs, an inability to walk uphill, discomfort whenlying down, and a headache. Get down fast. Equally asdangerous, if not more so, is High Altitude CerebralEdema, a swelling of the brain. Slurred speech anddifficulty balancing, as well as blurred vision andheadache, are signs of the sickness.

So if you have an incessant headache or other

AMS symptoms, go down and rest until your symp-toms subside. You can then try going up again. Ifthat doesn’t work, Viesturs says you should proba-bly go home and try again next time.

•Keep yourself strong and well-fueled. Whilegenetics do play a role in how quickly your body canadapt to the thinner air, there are a few things youcan do to help curb your chances of falling ill. “Num-ber one: Be in shape,” says Viesturs, who has never beendebilitated from altitude sickness even though he livesand trains at sea level. “Staying hydrated is also hugelyimportant,” he adds. “Keep your energy level up. Snack.Drink energy drinks. Take care of yourself. Once you startletting go, everything can tumble down.”

Drugs For Acute Mountain SicknessDiamox. The only true cure for altitude sickness

is descending to the last camp where the climber feltwell. However, some drugs, such as Diamox, helpincrease your breathing rate and can combat altitudesickness in situations where descending is not anoption, such as during a storm.

Diamox, or acetazolamide, is a “fairly benign” treat-ment that can also be taken as prophylactic, says Vies-turs. If you already know you’re prone to getting acutemountain sickness, try taking 125mg twice a day begin-ing two or three days before your climb. It’s a diuretic,so be sure to drink copious amounts of liquid.

Viagra. Here’s a drug that has shown promisingresults in fighting altitude sickness. Seems that nitricoxide, a wünder-compound that has lifted many aflagging member, also occurs naturally in greaterconcentration among native Tibetans and Bolivians,whose people have lived at altitude for thousandsof years. Viagra helps to dilate blood vessels andreduce blood pressure — keys to avoiding AMS.However, most doctors caution that more researchneeds to be done before Viagra can be taken willy-nilly in the mountains. ◆

Himalayan expert Ed Viesturs has summited12 8,000-meter peaks. The key to avoidingaltitude sickness, he says, is taking the nec-essary time to acclimatize.

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Berkeley/Oakland. BERKELEY IRONWORKS. 14,000square feet of climbable terrain; extensive weights & aerobic equipment; pro-shop. 800 Potter St. (off Ashby Exit/80), Berkeley, CA 94710; 510-981-9900;www.berkeleyironworks.com.

Concord. TOUCHSTONE. 10,000 square feet of climbing. Full fitness center and programs. Retail shop.1220 Diamond Way #140 (off Willow Pass Rd. exitHwy. 680), Concord, CA 94520; 925-602-1000;www.touchstoneclimbing.

Davis. ROCKNASIUM. Just ask around. 720 Olive Dr., Suite Z, Davis, CA 95616; 530-757-2902;www.rocknasium.com.

Freemont. CITY BEACH ROCK CLUB. 16,000 square feet of climbable terrain. 4020 Technology Place, Freemont, CA 94538; 510-651-2500 Ext.101;www.citybeach.com.

Hollywood. RED ROX CLIMBING. 7416 MelroseAvenue, Hollywood, CA; 323-651-1225; 10,000 boulder problems.

Los Angeles. LOS ANGELES ROCK GYM. In the SouthBay, 40 foot leads, top ropes, and bouldering. 100+routes. Just minutes south of LAX. 4926 WestRosecrans Ave. 310-973-3388.

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Orange County. SOLIDROCK GYM. (Lake Forest)10,000 sq. ft. climbable terrain. Top roping, bouldering, lead climbing. 26784 Vista Terrace; (949) 588-6200; www.solidrockgym.com

Poway. SOLIDROCK GYM. (North County Inland).12,000 square feet. 30 foot sculpted, seamless walls.Toproping, bouldering, lead climbing. Thousands ofthe latest/greatest hand/foot holds. Hundreds of clear-ly marked routes to choose from, (beginner - expert).Top of the line fitness, cardio/circuit/freeweights.Locker rooms with showers. Air conditioned! 13026Stowe Drive, Poway, CA 92064; 619-299-1124;www.solidrockgym.com.

Sacramento. GRANITE ARCH CLIMBING CENTER.Now the biggest! 23,500 square feet of hand sculptedclimbing surface. Enormous, new, outside boulderpark. Fully stocked retailer. 11335-G Folsom Blvd.,Rancho Cordova, CA 95742; 916-852-ROCK;www.granitearch.com.

Sacramento. SACRAMENTO PIPEWORKS. 12,000square feet of climbable terrain; extensive weights & car-dio; pro-shop. 116 N. 16th St., Sacramento, CA, 95814;916-341-0100; www.sacramentopipeworks.com.

San Diego. SOLIDROCK GYM. (Downtown) 12,000square feet. 30 foot sculpted, seamless walls.Toproping, bouldering, lead climbing. Thousands ofthe latest/greatest hand/foot holds. Hundreds of clearly marked routes to choose from, (beginner-expert). Mirrored free weight/campus board/systemwall area. Air conditioned! Minutes from the Airportand Convention Centers. 2074 Hancock St., San Diego,CA 92110; 619-299-1124; www.solidrockgym.com

San Diego. VERTICAL HOLD SPORT CLIMBINGCENTER, INC. The largest in Southern California. Over17,000 square feet of superbly textured climbing surface. Colossal 40 foot lead cave, 200+ toprope/lead routes and 2 awesome bouldering areas. 9580 Distribution Ave., San Diego, CA 92121; 858-586-7572; www.verticalhold.com

San Francisco. MISSION CLIFFS. 14,000 square feet ofclimbable terrain. Fully stocked pro-shop. 2295Harrison St., at 19th Street, San Francisco, 94110; 415-550-0515; www.mission-cliffs.com.

San Marcos. SOLIDROCK GYM (San Marcos) Stateof the art, 30 foot sculpted walls. 35+ topropes, boul-dering, lead climbing. Thousands of the latest/great-est hand/foot holds. Hundreds of clearly markedroutes to choose from, (beginner-expert) 992 Rancheros Drive, San Marcos, CA 92069; 619-299-1124; www.solidrockgym.com

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San Rafael. CLASS 5. 6,000 square feet of climbableterrain; extensive weights & aerobic equipment. 25-BDodie St., San Rafael, 94901; 415-485-6931;www.class5.com.

Santa Clara. PLANET GRANITE. 14,000 square feet ofsculpted climbing, weights and fitness; pro-shop.2901 Mead Ave., Santa Clara, CA 95051; 408-727-2777; www.planetgranite.com. Coming in2003 — our SECOND San Jose site.

Santa Cruz. PACIFIC EDGE. Indoor climbing at its finest!50 feet tall, Huge Lead Cave, Extensive Bouldering, Pro-Shop. 104 Bronson St., Santa Cruz, CA 95062;(831)-454-9254; www.pacificedgeclimbinggym.com.

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Colorado Springs. SPORT CLIMBING CENTER.Colorado’s ultimate indoor climbing destination.Spacious. Over 13,000 square feet. Guiding available.4650 Northpark Dr., 80918; 719-260-1050;www.SportClimbCS.com

Denver. PARADISE ROCK GYM. The best!! 6260 N. Washington St., Unit 5, Denver, CO 80216;303-286-8168. www.paradiserock.com.

Fort Collins. INNER STRENGTH ROCK GYM.Indoor (5800 square feet) & outdoor instruction. 3713South Mason, Fort Collins, CO; 970-282-8118; www.innerstrengthrock.com.

Fort Collins. THE GYM OF THE ROCKIES. 4,500square feet of textured terrain and a 1,000 foot freestanding boulder. 38 foot roof, 3 cracks, sculptedaretes. Group rates, instruction, equipment sales andrental. Located in a multi-sport/fitness complex. 1800Heath Pkwy; 970-221-5000

CONNECTICUTMystic. OLLIE'S ROCK GYM. (860) 572-ROCKwww.olliesrockgym.com. A place where life is goodand getting Gooder!

Manchester. STONE AGE ROCK GYM. 860-645-0015www.stoneagerockgym.com.

Wallingford. PRIME CLIMB ROCK GYM.Connecticut’s oldest and best choice for indoor climbing, outdoor guiding and full service climbingshop. 340 Silversmith Park, #28; 203-265-7880;www.primeclimb.com.

FLORIDAFort Lauderdale. CORAL CLIFFS INDOOR CLIMBINGGYM. "Serious climbing." 3400 Southwest 26thTerrace, Ste. A4, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33312; 954-321-9898; www.coralcliffs.com.

Miami. X-TREME ROCK CLIMBING. Florida’s premierclimbing facility. 12,000+ square feet of state-of-the-art fully textured arches, aretes, slabs & overhangs.13972 SW 139 Court, 33186; 305-233-6623.www.x-tremerock.com.

Orlando. AIGUILLE ROCK CLIMBING CENTER.Orlando's indoor climbing gym. 36 feet vertical, 7,500square feet of climbing and bouldering, proshop andguide service. 999 Charles St., Longwood, FL 32750;407-332-1430; www.ClimbOrlando.com.

GEORGIAAtlanta. ATLANTA ROCKS! INTOWN/PERIMETER GYMS.The largest gyms in the Southeast, offer challenging climbingon 12,000/6,000 square feet of seamless, textured climbingsurface, featuring multi-tiered, wildly overhanging ledges onterrain so realistic, it seems like real rock. Lead routes up to 85linear feet 50/40 topropes, bouldering features, aerobic andweight training equipment, computerized rotating climbingwall, locker rooms and showers. Group rates, daily instruc-tion, equipment sales and rentals. INTOWN! loca-tion 1019A Collier Road, Atlanta; 404-351-3009;PERIMETER! location 4411A Bankers Circle, Doraville;770-242-7625; www.atlantarocks.com.

ILLINOISBloomington. UPPER LIMITS. Quality climbing at itsbest. Illinois’s only CGA accredited facility offering20,000 square feet, routes up to 110 feet tall, wavewall, bi-level cave and 65 foot silos. Just off I-55 and I-74. 309-829-TALL (8255); www.upperlimits.com.

Chicago. LINCOLN PARK ATHLETIC CLUB. The ultimate urban crag! Outdoor climbing in the windycity. Spectacular 70 foot Entre Prises masterpiece, fea-turing sustained overhangs, roof, 2 face cracks, aretes, dihedrals and more. Also, now open year-round synthetic ice climbing with several routes 65 feet tall.Plus automated climbing on a programmable mechan-ical climbing wall. Expert instruction beginner to lead.Located at The El Line. 1019 W. Diversey at Sheffeld;773-529-2022; www.lpaconline.com/climb/.

Chicago. VERTICAL ENDEAVORS. 18,000ft2 of climb-ing on 40 ft. walls. 19 auto belays. Programsand outdoor guiding for all ages. www.verticalendeavors.com; 630-836-0122.

Crystal Lake. NORTH WALL. Top roping, leading,250+ continuous feet of bouldering, 50 foot arch,multi-level bouldering cave and pro-shop. 824 S.Main; 815-356-6855; www.climbnorthwall.com.

Evanston. EVANSTON ATHLETIC CLUB. Two EntrePrises walls with all the goods: slab, crack, roof, etc.Featuring the 46 foot high Gargoyle Dihedral andPumpmeister sustained overhang. Check out theKaisers’ Lair Bouldering Cave. Expert instruction begin-ner to lead. Located on the El line. 847-866-6190.

Homewood. CLIMB ON. 20 minutes south of Chicago.We have 4,800 square feet of climbing surface, 31 feet tall, all leadable, 28 topropes, boul-dering, pro-shop. 18120 Harwood Ave, Homewood, IL60430; 708-798-9994; www.Climbon.net;

Rochester. THE SILO, Inc. “Dare to Climb.” Toproping 65ft. 110 ft. Indoor/Outdoor. 130 South John St., Rochester, IL 62563; 217-498-9922; www.daretoclimb.com.

Rockford. G.A.R. INDOOR CLIMBING CENTER.9,000 square feet of custom sculpted climbing terrain,bouldering, leading, instruction, rental. High ropeschallenge course. New Bouldering Wall! 6630 SpringBrook Road, 61114; 815-654-6447.

INDIANABloomington. HOOSIER HEIGHTS. 8,500 square feetof climbable terrain. Outdoor Trips. New Bloomingtonsite August 2003 with 10,000+ square feet.www.hoosierheights.com; 812-824-6414.

Evansville. VERTICAL EXCAPE. 812-479-6887;www.verticalexcape.com.

MARYLANDColumbia & Timonium. EARTH TREKS CLIMBING CENTERS. Largest Climbing Gyms on the East Coastwith the best bouldering in the area. Two facilitieswithin 25 minutes of Baltimore and Washington, DC;800-CLIMB-UP, www.earthtreksclimbing.com.

Rockv i l l e . SPORTROCK 1. 703-212-7625;www.sportrock.com.

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MICHIGANAnn Arbor/Pontiac. PLANET ROCK CLIMBING GYM& TRAINING CENTER. Nationally recognized JuniorClimbing Team, Adventure Race certification & setup, Commercial Rigging and Consulting,Corporate Team Building, and portable climbingwalls. Ann Arbor 734-827-2680; Pontiac 248-334-3904 www.planet-rock.com.

Grand Rapids. HIGHER GROUND ROCK CLIMBINGCENTRE, LTD. 851 Bond NW, Grand Rapids, MI49503; 616-774-3100.

Kalamazoo. CLIMB KALAMAZOO. 10,500 squarefeet of climbing, 1,500 square feet of bouldering, 50foot+ overhanging lead routes. 136 South KalamazooMall, Kalamazoo, MI 49007; 616-385-9891;www.climbkalamazoo.com.

MINNESOTARochester. PRAIRIE WALLS CLIMBING GYM.www.prairiewalls.com.

St.Paul/Duluth. VERTICAL ENDEAVORS. The TwinCities' facility (651-776-1430) offers 10,000ft2 ofclimbing while Duluth (218-279-9980) offers12,000ft2 on walls up to 42' tall. Auto Belays.Programs and outdoor guiding for all ages.www.verticalendeavors.com.

MISSOURIColumbia. COLUMBIA'S CLIMBING GYM "TheBouldering Garden" Steep bouldering caves,Experienced guide service, beginner & advancedclimbing / kayaking classes, Scout ClimbingMerit Badge Available, Call 1-888-4-A-BELAY or 573-474-4997. We sell guide books to Missouri!

Springfield. PETRA ROCK GYM. 916 N.Cedarbrook, Springfield, MO; 417-866-3308;www.petrarockgym.com.

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FULLY STOCKED RETAIL SHOPGroup and Individual Instruction

Slabs, arêtes, cracks,roofs, overhangs andthe bouldering bat cave.

The Boston Rock Gym78G Olympia AvenueWoburn, MA 01801


St. Louis. UPPER LIMITS. Missouri’s premier climbinggym. 10,000 square feet of custom sculpted terrain.Air conditioned! Conveniently located off I64/40behind Union Station. Free parking. 326 South 21stSt.; 314-241-ROCK (7625); www.upperlimits.com.

St. Louis' NEW OUTDOOR CLIMBING WALL."Indoor Bouldering Cave and Outdoor Sport ClimbingWall" Located at Concord Lanes and Arizona Mini Golf(Off 270at Tesson Ferry and Baptist Church Road).Experienced guide service provides rock climbing andkayaking lessons, & climbing club trips every month!11801 Tesson Ferry 63128; 314-843-9200 ext 3, 24'Portable Yosemite Climbing Wall available for yourevent, call 1-888-4-A-Belay.

MONTANAButte. PIPESTONE MOUNTAINEERING. 829 S.Montana St., Butte, MT 59701; 406-782-4994.

NEW JERSEYEast Hanover. DIAMOND ROCK. 3,000 square feet,seamless texture, 37 foot peak; 973-560-0413.www.diamondrock.net

Edison. WALL STREET ROCK GYM. 5,000square feet. 216 Tingley Ln. 908-412-1255;www.WallStRockGym.com.

Fairfield. NEW JERSEY ROCK GYM. 373D Rt. 46W,Fairfield, NJ. Over 12,000 square feet with air condi-tioning. Eldorado Walls with giant lead roof, largestfreestanding boulder in the country and pro-shop;973-439-9860; www.njrockgym.com.

NEW MEXICOAlbuquerque. FOCUS FITNESS. Training.Climbing.Spinning. Yoga. New Mexico's premier fitness andbouldering facility. 505-821-5431.

Albuquerque. STONE AGE CLIMBING GYM. NM'sBiggest and Best, Multi-level Bouldering Cave,Leading, Guiding, Complete Climbing Shop. 505-341-2016, www.climbstoneage.com

NEW YORKBuffalo/Niagara Falls. NIAGARA CLIMBING CENTER.716-695-1248; www.niagaraclimbingcenter.com.

New Paltz. THE INNER WALL. Main St., Eckerd’s Plaza, New Paltz, NY; 845-255-7625.www.the innerwall.com.

New York. MANHATTAN PLAZA HEALTH CLUBCLIMBING WALL. Huge 5,000 square foot expansionfeaturing Cracks, Caves, Chimneys, Slabs and 40 footlead roof with crack. Classes, groups, parties, and corporate team clinics ongoing. 482 West 43rd St. 212-563-7001.

New York. THE SPORTS CENTER. Pier 60-Chelsea Piers,New York, NY 10011; 212-336-6000.

Rochester. ROCKVENTURES. Largest in North America-over 18,000 square feet of climbing! 585-442-5462;www.rockventures.net

NORTH CAROLINACharlotte. INNER PEAKS CLIMBING CENTER. 9535 Monroe Rd. , Ste. 170, Char lotte, NC 28270; 704-844-6677; www.innerpeaks.com.

OHIO

Columbus. VERTICAL ADVENTURES ROCKGYM. Central Ohio's only cl imbing gym.6295 Busch Blvd., Columbus, OH 43229;614-888-8393; www.verticaladventuresohio.com.

Euclid. CLEVELAND ROCK GYM, INC. 21200St. Clair, Euclid, OH 44117; 216-692-3300;www.clevelandrockgym.com.

OKLAHOMAOklahoma City. OKC ROCKS CLIMBING GYM.Tallest Artificial Climb in America - 145 ft. Awesomelead routes, TR's and Bouldering. (405) 319-1400;www.okcrocks.com

PENNSYLVANIAMechanicsburg. CLIMBNASIUM. Leading/toproping,45 foot leadable roof, pro-shop, open 7 days a week.Local day courses, management team building andchildren's programs; 717-795-9580.

Oaks. PHILADELPHIA ROCK GYM. 422 BusinessCenter, PO Box 511, Oaks, PA 19456; 610-666-ROPE;www.philarockgym.com.

Philadelphia. GO VERTICAL. Philadelphia's only climb-ing gym. Open 7 days a week at 10am every day. Call215-928-1800; www.govertical.com.

Pittsburgh. THE CLIMBING WALL at the factory.7,000 square feet. 7501 Penn Ave., 15208; 412-247-7334; www.theclimbingwall.com.

Wind Gap. NORTH SUMMIT CLIMBING GYM. Large,all extremes, professional walls and routes. Easy accessfrom Eastern PA, NY and NJ. 610-863-4444.

RHODE ISLANDLincoln. RHODE ISLAND ROCK GYM. Huge new facili-ty! 401-727-1704; www.rhodeislandrockgym.com

TENNESSEECleveland. FIVE POINTS WALL AT EXTREMEOUTDOORS. 185 Inman St.; 423-728-4810;www.wildernessthing.com.

TEXASCarrollton. EXPOSURE ROCK CLIMBING. Over9,000 square feet of climbing, excellent boulderingand gear shop. Portable climbing wall available.www.exposurerockclimbing.com.

VIRGINIAAlexandria. SPORTROCK 2. 703-212-7625;www.sportrock.com.

S te r l i ng . SPORTROCK 3 . 703-212-7625;www.sportrock.com.

Virginia Beach. VIRGINIA BEACH ROCK GYM.6,000 square feet, 33 foot textured wall with roofs,aretes, slabs, cracks and bulges. Toprope & lead,boulder, weights, pro-shop. Open everyday. 5049Southern Blvd., VA Beach, VA 23462; 757-499-8347;www.virginiabeachrockgym.com.

WASHINGTONCLIMB ON!-Fun and friendly bouldering + top rope. Indoor and outdoor instruction from experienced Mountain Guides. (360) 805-5848; www.climbonrocks.com

Seattle. STONE GARDENS. Very friendly. Best bouldering in the Northwest! 30 foot textured walls,40 foot outdoor wall, 65 foot lead roof. 2839 N.W.Market St. 206-781-9828; www.stonegardens.com.

Seattle/Redmond/Bremerton. VERTICAL WORLD.America's first indoor climbing gym. Fun routes,friendly service and professional instruction since1987. Three gyms for the price of one! Seattle 206-283-4497; Redmond 425-881-8826; Bremerton360-373-6676; www.verticalworld.com.

Spokane. WILD WALLS CLIMBING GYM & GEARSTORE. 40 foot walls, toprope, lead bouldering 202 West 2nd Ave, Spokane, WA 99201; 509-455-9596; www.wildwalls.com.

WISCONSINAppleton. VERTICAL STRONGHOLD. Indoor/outdoorclimbing center and gear shop. 8,000+ feet of climbing fun. Longest uninterrupted bouldering. 9 2 0 - 7 3 1 - 2 7 2 0 ; c l i m b v s @ c l i m b w i t h u s . c o m ,www.climbwithus.com.

Brookfield/Pewaukee. ADVENTURE ROCK. Wisconsin'slargest indoor climbing facility, over 9,500 square feetof textured surfaces, ceiling heights of 35 feet. Full pro - shop, portable rock wall rental and outdoor guiding. 21250 W. Capital Dr. Pewaukee, WI 53072; 262-790-6800; www.adventurerock.com

WYOMINGCasper. THE PEAK. 408 N. Beverly, Casper, WY 82609;307-472-4084.

CANADANewmarket, Ontario. ROCK & CHALK CLIMBING.Climate controlled. Open 7 days. 905-895-ROCK;www.rockandchalk.com.

Toronto, Ontario. JOE ROCKHEAD’S CLIMBINGGYM. The World’s Greatest Climbing Gym. 29 FraserAve., Toronto, Ontario M6K 1Y7; 416-538-7670;www.joerockheads.com.

Toronto, Ontario. THE ROCK OASIS. 15,000 squarefeet. 60 foot high climbs & lots of bouldering. 27Bathurst Street, Toronto, M5V 2P1; 416-703-3434;www.rockoasis.com

COSTA RICASan Jose, MUNDO AVENTURA, Climbing Gym &Adventure. Paseo Colon, Between 36th & 38th St. 03Ave.; Ph: (506)221-6934; email:[email protected];www.maventura.com; San Jose, Costa Rica.

Contact:Lisen Gustafson

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AlabamaAlabama Outdoors3054 Independence Dr.Birmingham, AL 35209205-870.1919F 205-870-5505800-870-0011www.aloutdoors.comoutdoors@aloutdoors.com

AlaskaAlaska Mountaineering &Hiking2633 Spenard Blvd. Anchorage,AK 99503907-272-1811F 907-274-6362www.alaskamountaineering.com

ArizonaSummit Hut5045 E. SpeedwayTucson, AZ [email protected]

CaliforniaAdventure 1611161 W. Pico Blvd.West Los Angeles, CA 90064310-473-4574for other SO CAL locations:www.adventure16.comBerkeley IronWorks800 Potter St.Berkeley, CA 94710510-981-9900www.berkeleyironworks.com

Class 525-B Dodie St.San Rafael, CA 94901415-485-6931www.class5.comGranite Arch Gear Closet11335 Folsom Blvd. Bldg., GRancho Cordova, CA 95742916-638-4605F 916-638-4706Mammoth MountaineeringSupply3189 Main St.(Next to Wave Rave)Mammoth Lakes, CA 93546760-934-4191www.mammothgear.comMarmot Mountain Works3049 Adeline St.Berkeley, CA 94703800-MARMOT-9 (627-6689)www.marmotmountain.comMission Cliffs2295 Harrison St.San Francisco, CA 94110415-550-0515www.mission-cliffs.comNomad Ventures61795-29 Palms Hwy. Ste. AJoshua Tree, CA 92252760-366-4684www.nomadventures.comNomad Ventures996 A North Coast Hwy. 101Leucadia, CA 92024760-634-4855F 760-634-4955www.nomadventures.com

Nomad Ventures54415 N. Circle Dr.Idyllwild, CA 92549909-659-4853www.nomadventures.comNomad Ventures405 W. Grand Ave.Escondido, CA 92025760-747-8223www.nomadventures.comNorthern MountainSupply Inc.125 W. 5th St.Eureka, CA 95501707-445-1711F 707-445-0781800-878-3583Real Cheap Sports36 W. Santa ClaraVentura, CA 93001805-648-3803F 805-653-2581www.mountainoutlet.comRocknasium720 W. Olive Dr., Ste. ZDavis, CA 95616916-757-2902Sacramento Pipeworks116 N. 16th St.Sacramento, CA 95814916-341-0100www.sacramentopipeworks.comSonoma Outfitters145 Third St.Santa Rosa, CA 95401707-528-1920800-290-1920www.sonomaoutfitters.comSun & Ski SportsGreat Mall of the Bay Area1160 Great Mall Dr.Milpitas, CA 95035408-263-3566F 408-263-3016www.sunandski.comSunrise Mountaineering2455 Railroad Ave.Livermore, CA 94550925-447-8330The North Face180 Post St.San Francisco, CA 94108415-433-3223www.thenorthface.comThe North Face217 Alma St.Palo Alto, CA 94301650-327-1563www.thenorthface.comThe North Face423 N. Beverly Dr.Beverly Hills, CA 90210310-246-4120www.thenorthface.comOutland Mountain Shop929 E. California Blvd.Pasadena, CA 91106626-568-8828F 626-568-9693www.mountainoutlet.comTouchstone-Concord1220 Diamond Way #140Concord, CA 94520925-602-1000www.touchstoneclimbing.comValley Sporting GoodsMcHenry Village 700 McHenry Ave., #D50Modesto, CA 95350209-523-5681F 209-523-0624800-435-0150Western Mountaineering2344 El Camino RealSanta Clara, CA 95050408-984-7611www.marmotmountain.com

Wilderness Exchange1407 San Pablo Ave.Berkeley, CA 94702888-326-7021F 510-528-1789www.wildernessexchange.com

ColoradoBackcountry Experience1205 Camino del RioDurango, CO 81301970-247-8013800-648-8519Casa De Madera Sports660 Grande Ave.Del Norte, CO 81132719-657-2723Mountain Chalet226 N. TejonColorado Springs, CO 80903719-633-0732Mountain Sports821 Pearl Street,Boulder, CO 80302303-443-6770Neptune Mountaineering633 S. Broadway, Unit ABoulder, CO 80305303-499-8866www.neptunemountaineering.comOuray Mountain Sports722 MainOuray, CO [email protected] NeedleMountaineering835 Main St., Ste 112Durango, CO 81301970-247-8728800-607-0364www.pineneedle.comSummit CanyonMountaineering307 8th St.Glenwood Springs, CO 81601970-945-6994800-360-6994www.summitcanyon.comSummit CanyonMountaineering461 MainGrand Junction, CO 81501970-243-2847800-CLIMB-ITwww.summitcanyon.comThe Bent Gate1300 Washington Ave.Golden, CO 80401877-BENT GATEwww.bentgate.comThe Mountain Shop632 S. MasonFort Collins, CO 80524970-493-5720800-403-5720www.themountainshop.comThe North Face629-K S. BroadwayBoulder, CO 80303303-499-1731www.thenorthface.comTrailhead Ventures707 Highway 24 N.Buena Vista, CO 81211719-395-8001www.trailheadco.comWilderness ExchangeUnlimited1550 Platte St, Suite EDenver, CO 80202303-964-0708www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.cominfo@wildernessexchangeunlimited.com

ConnecticutNorth Cove Outfitters Inc.75 Main St.Old Saybrook, CT 06475860-388-6585www.northcove.comPrime Climb/Radical Retail340 Quinnipiac St., Bldg. 28Wallingford, CT 06492203-265-7880www.primeclimb.com

FloridaBlack Creek Outfitters10051 Skinner Lake Dr.Jacksonville, FL 32246904-645-7003www.blackcreekoutfitters.comSun & Ski Sports12801 W. Sunrise Blvd.Sunrise, FL 33323954-838-0095F 954-838-0079www.sunandski.com

GeorgiaCall of the Wild425 Market PlaceRoswell (Atlanta), GA 30075770-992-5400F [email protected] Ventures453 Moreland Ave.Atlanta, GA [email protected] & Ski SportsDiscover Mills Mall5900 Sugarloaf PkwyLawrenceville, GA 30043678-847-5717F 678-847-5721www.sunandski.com

IdahoK&R Adventure Gear545 Shoup Ave.Idaho Falls, ID 83402208-525-3333877-369-7407www.knradventuregear.comLost River Sports516 N. Main St.Hailey, ID [email protected]

IllinoisStarved Rock Outfitters,Ltd.723 South Clark St.Utica, IL 61373888-580-5510F 815-667-9970www.gearexpress.comThe North FaceJohn Hancock Center 875 N. Michigan Ave.Chicago, IL 60611312-337-7200www.thenorthface.com

IndianaClimb Time8750 Corporation Dr.Indianapolis, IN 46256317-596-3330www.climbtime.comJ.L. Waters & Company109 N. College Ave.Bloomington, IN 47402812-334-1845800-440-1845www.jlwaters.com

KentuckyJ&H Lanmark189 Moore Dr.Lexington, KY 40503606-627-8073800-677-9633www.jhoutdoor.com

MaineAlpenglow AdventureSports & Acadia Mtn.Guides Climbing School36A Main St.Orono, ME 04473888-232-9559www.acadiamountainguides.com

MarylandEarth Treks7125-C Columbia Gateway Dr.Columbia, MD 21046410-872-0060F 410-872-0064800-CLIMB-UPwww.earthtreksclimbing.cominfo@earthtreksclimbing.comEarth Treks1930 Greenspring Dr.Timonium, MD 21903410-872-0060F 410-872-0064800-CLIMB-UPwww.earthtreksclimbing.cominfo@earthtreksclimbing.comSun & Ski SportsArundel Mills Mall7000 Arundel Mills Cr.Hanover, MD 21076410-799-2800F 410-799-9525www.sunandski.comThe Trail House17 S. Market St.Frederick, MD 21701301-694-8448F 301-694-8449

MassachusettsAdventure Outfitters451 Russell St.Hadley, MA 01035413-253-5500F 413-253-0694www.adventureoutfitter.comArcadian Shop91 Pittsfield-Lenox Rd.Lenox, MA 01240413-637-3010Boston Rock Gym78 G Olympia Ave.Woburn, MA 01801781-935-PEAKwww.bostonrockgym.comNew England Backpacker6 E. Mountain St.Worcester, MA 01606508-853-9407www.newenglandbackpacker.com

MichiganAnn Arbor Bivouac, Inc.336 S. State St.Ann Arbor, MI 48104313-761-6207F 313-761-7179Inside Moves639 1/2 76th St. S.W.Byron Center, MI 49315616-281-7088Lee's Sports311 W. KilgoreKalamazoo, MI 49002616-381-7700www.leessports.com

Climb [email protected] S.E. DivisionPortland, OR 97202Marmot Mountain [email protected] (627-6689) 3049 Adeline St.Berkeley CA 94703Mountain [email protected] 509-325-3030730 N. HamiltonSpokane, WA 99202Mountain Sportswww.mountainsportsboulder.comgearup@mountainsportsboulder.com800-558-6770303-442-83552835 Pearl Street, Ste. BBoulder, CO 80301Mountain [email protected] F 831-620-0977PO Box 222295Carmel, CA 93922MS [email protected] Box 5775Somerset, NJ 08875

Northern MountainSupply, Inc.www.killerdeals.commtn@northernmountain.com800-878-3583707-445-1711F 707-445-0871125 W. 5th St.Eureka, CA 95501Rock/Creek Outfitterswww.rockcreekoutfitters.com888-707-6708100 Tremont St.Chattanooga TN 37405Shoreline MountainProductswww.shorelinemtn.cominfo@shorelinemtn.com800-381-2733415-455-100021 Golden Gate Dr.,Unit CSan Rafael, CA 94901Sierra Trading Postwww.SierraTradingPost.cominfo@SierraTradingPost.com800-713-45345025 Campstool RoadCheyenne, WY 82007Summit [email protected] E. SpeedwayTucson, AZ 85712Tireless Trekkerwww.tirelesstrekker.commail@tirelesstrekker.com800-295-5640305-672-52174045 Sheridan Ave. #423Miami, FL 33140

ONLINE RETAILERS

Authorized Dealer

108 | ROCKANDICE.COM

WWW.ROCKANDICE.COM | 109WWW.ROCKANDICE.COM | 109

Planet Rock82 Aprill Dr.Ann Arbor, MI 48103734-827-268034 Rapid St.Pontiac, MI 48342248-334-3904888-334-ROCKwww.planet-rock.comThe Outpost25 East 8th St.Holland, MI 49423616-396-5556www.hollandoutpost.com

MinnesotaMidwest Mountaineering309 Cedar Ave. S.Minneapolis, MN 55454612-339-3433www.midwestmtn.com

MissouriSun & Ski SportsThe Country Club Plaza500 Nichols Rd.Kansas City, MO 64112816-931-8920F 816-931-8902www.sunandski.com

MontanaNorthern Lights TradingCo.1716 W. BabcockBozeman, MT 59715406-586-2225www.nltcoutdoors.comPipestone Mountaineering101 S. HigginsMissoula, MT 59801406-721-1670www.pipestonemtng.com

NevadaDesert Rock Sports8201 W. Charleston Blvd.Las Vegas, NV 89117702-254-1143F 702-254-1050www.desertrocksports.comReno Mountain Sports155 E. Moana Ln.Reno, NV 89502775-825-2855www.renomountainsports.com

New HampshireCraggers2724 White Mtn HwyNorth Conway, NH 03860603-356-8877www.climbingshoes.cominfo@climbingshoes.comInternational MountainEquipment 2733 Main St.North Conway, NH 03860603-356-6316F 603-356-6492www.ime-usa.comRagged MountainEquipmentRoute 16-302 Intervale, NH 03845603-356-3042www.raggedmountain.com

New JerseyCampmor810 Route 17 N.Paramus, NJ 07652800-230-2151800-CAMPMORwww.campmor.com

Ramsey Outdoor Store1039 Route 46 W.Ledgewood, NJ 07852973-584-7799www.ramseyoutdoor.comRamsey Outdoor Store240 Route 17 N.Paramus, NJ 07652201-261-5000www.ramseyoutdoor.com

New MexicoD.O.M.E. (DynamicOutdoor MountainExperience)3801-A Arkansas Ave.Los Alamos, NM [email protected] Mountain Outfitters114 S. PlazaTaos, NM 87571505-758-9292www.taosmountainoutfitters.com

New YorkLake PlacidMountaineering132 Main St.Lake Placid, NY 12946518-523-7586www.gearx.comSun & Ski Sports1282 Palisades Center Dr.West Nyack, NY 10994845-358-4477F 845-358-0445www.sunandski.comTent & Trails21 Park PlaceNew York, NY 10007212-227-1760800-237-1760www.tenttrails.comThe MountaineerBox 66, Route 73Keene Valley, NY 12943518-576-2281F 518-576-4352www.mountaineer.com

North CarolinaDiamond Brand OutdoorsHwy 25, PO Box 249Naples, NC 28760828-684-6262www.diamondbrand.comJesse Brown’s Outdoors4732 Sharon Rd, Ste. 2MCharlotte, NC 28210704-556-0020www.jessebrown.comSun & Ski SportsConcord Mills Mall8381 Concord Mills Blvd.Concord, NC 28027704-979-6500F 704-979-6520www.sunandski.com

OhioSun & Ski Sports7565 Kenwood Rd.Cincinnati, OH 45236513-745-0099F 513-745-0167www.sunandski.com

OklahomaSun & Ski Sports10109 N. MayOklahoma City, OK 73120405-755-7400F 405-751-9672www.sunandski.comSun & Ski Sports6808 S. Memorial Dr.Tulsa, OK 74133918-254-0673F 918-254-6210www.sunandski.com

OregonClimb Max2105 S.E. Division St.Portland, OR 97202503-797-1991www.pagangear.comwww.climbaxe.comMountain Shop628 N.E. BroadwayPortland, OR 97232503-288-6768F 503-280-1687www.mountainshop.netMountain Supply834 Colorado StreetBend, OR 97701541-388-0668800-794-0688Redpoint Climbers Supply975 NW Smith Rock WayTerrebonne, OR 97760541-923-6207800-923-6207www.goclimbing.comRockhardSmith Rock State Park9297 N.E. Crooked River Dr.Terrebonne, OR 97760541-548-4786

PennsylvaniaAppalachian Ski & Outdoors123 S. AllenState College, PA 16801814-234-3000800-690-5220www.theadventuresource.comoutdoors@theadventuresource.comExkursion4037 William Penn HighwayMonroeville, PA 15146412-372-7030F 412-372-7046www.exkursion.com

Puerto RicoAventuras Tierra Adentro268-A Ave.Pinero Univ. GardensRio Piedras, PR 00927787-766-0470

Rhode IslandRhode Island Rock Gym100 Higginson Ave.Lincoln, RI 02865401-727-1704F 401-727-4447questions@rhodeislandrockgym.comwww.rhodeislandrockgym.com

TennesseeEarth Traverse Outfitters2815 Sutherland Ave.Knoxville, TN 37919865-523-0699www.earthtraverse.wsSun & Ski SportsOpry Mills 501 Opry Mills Dr.Nashville, TN 37214615-514-3300F 615-514-3307www.sunandski.com

TexasMountain Sports2025 West Pioneer Pkwy.Arlington, TX 76013817-461-4503www.mountainsports.comSun & Ski Sports5503 FM 1960 W.Houston, TX 77069281-537-0928F 281-893-1806www.sunandski.com

Sun & Ski Sports6100 WestheimerHouston, TX 77057713-783-8180F 713-783-9199www.sunandski.comSun & Ski SportsKaty Mills Mall5000 Katy Mills Cr., #505Katy, TX 77494281-644-6040F 281-644-6046www.sunandski.comSun & Ski SportsMemorial City Mall900 GessnerHouston, TX 77024713-464-6363F 713-461-4319www.sunandski.comSun & Ski SportsBaybrook Shopping Center1355 W. Bay Area Blvd.Webster, TX 77598281-316-1365F 281-332-6092www.sunandski.comSun & Ski Sports3000 Grapevine Mills PkwyGrapevine, TX 76051972-355-9424F 972-355-9425www.sunandski.comSun & Ski Sports2438 W. Anderson Ln., #B1AAustin, TX 78757512-467-2782F 512-467-2822www.sunandski.comSun & Ski Sports13411 San Pedro Ave.San Antonio, TX 78216210-494-0429F 210-494-1922www.sunandski.comWhole Earth Provision2410 San Antonio St.Austin, TX 78705512-478-1577www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth Provision255 E. BasseSan Antonio, TX 78209210-829-8888www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth Provision5400 E. Mockingbird Ln.Dallas, TX 75206214-824-7444www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth Provision2934 S. ShepherdHouston, TX 77098713-526-5226www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth Provision6560 Woodway Dr.Houston, TX 77057713-467-0234www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth Provision1014 N. LamarAustin, TX 78703512-476-1414www.wholeearthprovision.comWhole Earth ProvisionS. Lamar & Hwy 290 (Westgate)Austin, TX 78745512-899-0992www.wholeearthprovision.com

UtahHurst160 North 500 WestSt. George, UT 84770435-673-6141F 435-628-3380

International MountainEquipment3265 East 3300 SouthSalt Lake City, UT 84109801-484-8073F [email protected] N. University Pkwy.Provo, UT 84604801-371-0223F 801-371-0223www.utahclimbing.comPagan Mountaineering59 South Main St. #2Moab, UT 84532435-259-1117F 435-259-1119www.paganmountaineering.comThe Tug Shop1450 South 400 WestSalt Lake City, UT 84115801-467-3512F [email protected] Wasatch Touring702 East 100 SouthSalt Lake City, UT 84102801-359-9361F 801-534-0905www.xmission.com/~wtouring/[email protected]

VermontClimb High2438 Shelburne Rd.Shelburne, VT 05482802-985-5056www.climbhigh.comOutdoor Gear Exchange191 Bank St.Burlington, VT 05401802-860-0190www.gearx.com

VirginiaMountain Trails212 E. Cork St.Winchester, VA [email protected]

WashingtonBackpackers Supply5206 S. Tacoma WayTacoma, WA 98409253-472-4402www.marmotmountain.comFeathered Friends119 Yale Ave. N.Seattle, WA 98109206-292-2210F 206-292-9667www.featheredfriends.comMarmot Mountain Works827 Bellevue N.E.Bellevue, WA 98004800-CLIMBINwww.marmotmountain.comMountain Goat Outfitters915 W. BroadwaySpokane, WA 99201509-325-9806F 509-325-9855www.mountaingoatoutfitters.comSecond Ascent5209 Ballard Ave. NWSeattle, WA 98107206-545-8810F 206-545-9397www.secondascent.com

Summit Haus5 miles outside Mt. RanierNational Park,30027 SR 706 EastAshford, WA 98304800-238-5756www.summithaus.comThe North Face1023 First Ave.Seattle, WA 98104206-622-4111www.thenorthface.com

West VirginiaAdventure’s Edge131 Pleasant St.Morgantown, WV 26505304-296-9007Water Stone Outdoors101 E. Wiseman Ave.Fayetteville, WV 25840304-574-2425www.waterstoneoutdoors.comwaterstone@charter.net

WisconsinVertical Stronghold 719 W. Frances St.Appleton, WI 54914920-731-2720F [email protected]’s CampgroundE. 11329 Hwy. 159Baraboo, WI 53913608-356-4877

WyomingAll Terrain Sports412 Grand Ave.Laramie, WY 82070307-721-8036Sunlight Sports1251 Sheridan Ave.Cody, WY 82414307-587-9517Teton Mountaineering170 N. Cache PO Box 1533Jackson, WY 83001307-733-3595www.tetonmountaineering.comWild Iris333 Main St.Lander, WY 82520307-332-4541888-284-5968

CanadaLa Cordee Plein-Air2777 St-Martin Blvd West Laval, PQ H7T 2Y7 2159 Rue St. Catherine EastMontreal, PQ, H2K 2H9800-567-1106www.lacordee.com

Robinson’s Outdoor StoreLtd.1307 Broad St.Victoria, BC V8W 2A8250-385-3429888-317-0033www.robinsonsoutdoors.com

Hong KongHong KongMountaineering TrainingCentre1/F Flat B, On Yip Bldg.395-7 Shanghai St.Mongkok, Kowloon852-2-3848190F [email protected]

Please Contact: Ramona Roof877-762-5423 ext 17

[email protected]

Authorized Dealer

ADVERTISEADVERTISE

American Alpine InstituteMcKinley, Whitney, the Matterhorn, Rainier,Aconcagua, Ecuador, the Eiger, Red Rocks,Squamish. For 28 years we’ve offered courses &climbs in 6 states & 12 countries at all levels ofability. Outside has named AAI “The best allaround guide service in North America.” Forbescites the Institute for “Excellence in a guide serv-ice.” Join us! Brochures: 1515 - 12th St.Bellingham, WA 98225.

360-671-1505www.aai.cc

AdventureConsultants

Experience successful high altitude expeditionsin style! Join Guy Cotter and our world-classguides on expeditions to the Himalaya,Antarctica, Alaska, Greenland, South Americaand Indonesia. In New Zealand we are the premier company for mountaineering coursesand guided ascents in the majestic SouthernAlps.

970-453-1407www.adventureconsultants.co.nz

Alpine World AscentsColorado’s Premier Mountain Guides- Instruction, guiding, trips, expeditions- locally and around the globe, year round- rock, ice, alpine, ski/snowboard

mountaineering, avalanche courses - custom designed, friendly, experienced, safe- AMGA certified guides in rock, alpine, ski

We are dedicated to exceeding your expectations.

www.alpineworldascents.com

Aspen ExpeditionsLearn to climb with Aspen Expeditions. IFMGA-AMGA certified or trained guides willteach or guide all disciplines: ROCK, ICE, ALPINE& SKI MOUNTAINEERING from beginner toadvanced. Join us in the awesome Elk Mountainssurrounding Aspen, CO or Tucson, AZ andbeyond among the world’s greatest mountainranges.

[email protected]

Acadia Mountain GuidesSeacliffs to mountaintops around the globe!Rock & Ice Climbing, Mountaineering Trips,Rescue Systems, Avalanche Courses, GuideTraining & Youth Camps. Accredited SchoolCertified Guides.

888-232-9559www.acadiamountainguides.com

Canada West Mountain SchoolWestern Canada's year ’round mountain trainingand guide service since 1982. Join us for excitingclimbing and skiing throughout Western Canadaand the world with Association of CanadianMountain Guides (ACMG) certified guides.Trips to Aconcagua, Mt. Logan, Elbrus and Mt.Waddington, plus we specialize in custom training and adventures — all priced in Canadiandollars!! Mail to: [email protected];

604-878-7007www.themountainschool.com

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The Adventure Climbing and TrekkingCompany of South America

Expeditions led by experienced professionalguides on Aconcagua, Cotopaxi, Cayambe,Chimborazo, Alpamayo, Huascaran, Illimani,Sajama, Ancohuma, Illampu and Huayna Potosi.Beginner, intermediate and advanced routesoffered. Custom departures and itinerarieseasily arranged for small or large groups.

719-530-9053www.adventureco.com

Alpine Skills InternationalJoin American’s premier all-terrain program inrock, alpine and ski mountaineering. Coursesand guided programs include: Skiing, rockclimbing (near Lake Tahoe), classic routes andsummit climbs in the High Sierra and Mt. Shasta.Climbing and ski mountaineering in theEuropean Alps and South America

530-426-9108www.alpineskills.com

Aventuras PatagonicasMountain Guides

Mountaineering in the Andes, Patagonia andthe world’s greatest ranges. Our specialty forover 25 years. Aconcagua Expeditions via ournew and pristine Guanacos Valley Route.Polish Glacier and Traverse approaches via theGuanacos Valley. Highest success rate, experience and quality in the field. Also firstclass expeditions to: Patagonia, Bolivia,Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Antarctica, Alaska andthe Alps.

888-203-9354 www.patagonicas.com

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Guide FinderGuide Finder For free information, circle number on Reader Service card

Tie into AdventurePrivate and group trips in Washington, Alaskaand Utah. International treks and expeditions inArgentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, Mexico,Antarctica, Russia, Italy, France, New Zealand,Tibet and Nepal. Mountaineering seminars inUtah, Washington and South America.

Visit our website for specific trip information.Join our email newsletter!

800-408-8949www.mountain-link.com

Daniel AllessioExpediciones Aconcagua & Bolivia

- The local specialist in Aconcagua Mountainand Cordillera Real of Bolivia.- English speaking staff.- Fully organized scheduled departures as well astailored trips.- The best prices due we live where the moun-tains are, not intermediates involved.- The best services, as our former customers canconfirm at. http://www.alessio.com.ar/satisfied/

[email protected]

Jackson Hole Mountain GuidesSunny rock climbing near Las Vegas or mountainadventures in the Grand Tetons and Wind RiverRange. Call us to join climbing and skiing classes, mountain trips or design your own custom adventure. Experienced guides, goodfood and personal attention.

[email protected]

Chicks with Picks™

Presented by MarmotTired of being a belay slave?

Learn to be an ice climbing Betty at our allwomen’s clinics!

Women climbing with women, for women.Partial proceeds donated to local women’s shelters.

970-626-4424www.chickswithpicks.net

Cascade Alpine GuidesAlpine Mountaineering, Glacier Travel &Crevasse Rescue Instruction, Rock Climbingfrom Beginner to Advanced. Small Groups,Professional Instructors, Private trips available. North Cascades National Park.Mt. Rainier Wonderland Trail, Africa,Kilimanjaro, Grand Canyon Havasupai Treks& more. Authorized Mount Rainier Summitclimbs. Explore the World’s Wild Places.Cascade Alpine Guides

800-981-0381www.cascadealpine.com

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Colorado Mountain SchoolYear-round Rock and ice climbing, moun-taineering, ski mountaineering and avalanchecourses for beginner – advanced. The ONLYpermitted climbing guide service in RockyMountain National Park. Also teach and guidein Boulder area, Vail, Utah, Alaska, Mexico,Peru, Africa and more. 341 Moraine Ave, EstesPark, CO. 888-267-7783

www.cmschool.com

EMS Climbing SchoolOver 35 years experience teaching rock & ice-climbing and mountaineering. Basic to advancedinstruction seven days a week in NH, NY, CT,western states + South America. A.M.G.A.Accredited. Largest number of A.M.G.A certifiedrock guides and instructors in the East.

800-310-4504www.emsclimb.com

Mountain Adventure SeminarsMountain Adventure Seminars (M.A.S.) offersinstructional courses and finely crafted adven-tures in rock climbing, mountaineering, avalanche education, adventure teambuildingand backcountry skiing, snowboarding andsnowshoeing. M.A.S. also operates the REINorthern California Rock Climbing School withspecial courses and discounts for REI members.

209-753-6556 ext. 1www.mtadventure.com

Mountain TripClimb Denali with the guides who know themountain. Learn the skills needed to climbDenali and other mountains in the Denali PrepSeminar. Technical climbing courses are alsoavailable.

[email protected]

www.mountaintrip.com

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Guide FinderGuide Finder

Nidever Mountain GuidesSince 1984. Welcome to the Sierra, our back-yard. This “Range of Light” is a dreamscapefor the mountaineer, skier, and hiker. We arethe Sierra experts. Come join us for anotherseason as we feel the wind in our face, touchrock with our hands, and turn our skisthrough powder and corn snow. All levels ofinstruction in rock and ice climbing, moun-taineering courses, private trips available.

[email protected]

www.themountainguide.com

Talkeetna Air TaxiProviding expedition support for McKinleyClimbers since 1947. Glacier landings to a vari-ety of locations in the Alaska Range/TalkeetnaMountains. Comfortable hostel, rental equip-ment, beta & slides and friendly staff. Climbergrant for unusual objectives. PO Box 73,Talkeetna, AK 99676; Fax: 907-733-1434.

[email protected]

Northwest Mountain SchoolMountain Guides specializing in 1-4 week trips for ages 13-18. Programs in NorthCascades, Chugach Range (AK), Smith Rock,Leavenworth(WA), Mt. Adams, Glacier Peak, andelsewhere. Professional instruction for youngpeople since 1994. Private guides for adultclimbers available. John Race, Director.

866-729-5823www.mountainschool.com

Shasta Mountain GuidesWe specialize in Mt. Shasta.

•Alpine mountaineering•backcountry skiing

•rock climbing

530-926-3117www.shastaguides.com

Sierra Climbing GuidesOperated by Sean Easton - A.C.M.G. AlpineGuide. Mountain – Rock & Ice Climbing.Canadian Based – Worldwide Guiding Services &Rockies Winter Ice Specialists. Expeditions –BigWalls & Roadtrips.

[email protected]

Sierra Wilderness Seminars, Inc.Professional guiding since 1981 AMGA accredited

Mt. Shasta Mountaineering School Eastern Sierra Nevada Guided Climbs

International Expeditions

[email protected]

Ultimate AscentsExpeditions and World Wide Alpine Guidingincluding: Nuptse, Khan Tengri, PatagoniaAlpinism, Alpamayo, Ice Guiding, 8000m basecamp service and Custom Guiding. Check website for many more unique trips.

[email protected]

Yosemite Mountaineering SchoolYosemite Mountaineering School and guideservice. All levels of instruction and guidedclimbing in Yosemite National Park since 1969.Climb the walls of Yosemite Valley with the BigWall experts. Climb the domes of TuolumneMeadows and the peaks of the High Sierra withour expert guides. Yosemite, CA 95389.

209-372-8344www.YosemitePark.com

Mountain MadnessClimb the Seven Summits with our experiencedstaff and enjoy our excellent service. Extensivealpine & rock courses available in South Americaand the North Cascades. Climb Everest, ChoOyo, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Nepal, Alps. Trek inSouth America & Asia.

800-328-5925www.mountainmadness.com

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Guide FinderGuide Finder For free information, circle number on Reader Service card

You don’t summit solely on courage. It takes commitment. It takes vision. And it takes equipment that’s

been rigorously developed and tested along the journey. The Vasque® Mountaineering Team tests Vasque

boots in all kinds of conditions, at elevations all over the world. vasque.com

TO REACH THE SUMMIT

THE SOUL RELIES HEAVILY ON THE FEET.

© 2002 Vasque Photo by Kristoffer Erickson

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A lot of climbers abuse their jackets.

Few actually take a knife to them.

He counts on the Hybrid Welded, Micro Stitched Construction,Single Draw Storm Hood, and full length Stormproof Pocketsto keep him warm and dry in gale swept Scotland. And he likesthat it weighs eight ounces less than any of our other jackets.Which, according to Pete’s math, saves him several thousand

pounds of effort on your average climb. Give or take afew if you include his knife. It's no wonder

people who work outdoors for a living are theinspiration for the clothing that works for them.

The Minima Jacket. Count on it.™

Alpine climber Pete Takeda is such an ultra light freak, heused to be known for taking a knife to his jackets and cuttingoff zipper flaps, extra cords and anything else he felt wasextraneous, all in the name of a few ounces. That is, untilhe joined the Marmot Design team and helped decide what wouldhit the cutting room floor on our Minima Jacket. The result? A2.5 layer jacket that is incredibly light weight yet tough enoughto handle even the most extreme conditions. Pete knows theShadowlight Gore-Tex® PL3 Shell will stay water-proof yet breathable in the snowy Himalayas.

marmot.com

Photo|Pete Takeda Collection

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