101 Essential Tips Bakingdl.booktolearn.com/ebooks2/cooking/9781465430021_101...If you are baking with chocolate, it is worth buying the best-quality chocolate you can afford. If you

Baking

101ESSENTIAL TIPS

Baking101

ESSENTIAL TIPS

Caroline Bretherton

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Written byUS Culinary Consultant

David & Sylvia Tombesi-Walton Simon Murrell

Chauney Dunford Clare Marshall Jill Hamilton Shannon Beatty Penny Warren Kathryn Wilding Tony Phipps Ché Creasey Jane Bull Mary Ling

Caroline Bretherton Kate Ramos

101 ESSENTIAL TIPS

Pages 8 to 17

THE BASICS

1 .......................Read the recipe first2 ................Room-temperature eggs3 ..............................Softened butter4 .....................Butter or margarine?5 ...Toast spices to release the flavors6 .....Baking soda or baking powder?7 ......................Get the shelves right8 .....................Don’t open the oven!9 ......................Oven thermometers10 ...................Baking with chocolate11 ........Floating test for egg freshness12 .........Measuring sticky ingredients13 ..................................Digital scales14 .......Unsalted butter for everything15 ........................Using vanilla beans16 ...............Grinding nuts for recipes17 ..........How to slice a cake perfectly18 .......What if? No parchment paper19 .................What if? No buttermilk20 ..........What if? No baking powder21 ..........What if? No self-rising flour

Pages 18 to 23

COOKIES, BARS & SMALL CAKES

22 ...............................Let cookies set23 ...........................Perfect brownies24 ............Achieving even brownness25 Freezing cookie dough for later use26 ..................Heavy baking sheets at hot temperatures27 ......Using a lumpy mix for muffins28 A tip for filling cases for cupcakes29 .................Using cooking spray for easy portioning30 .................Remove cupcakes from the pan immediately31 .......Filling empty pans with water32 ....................A soft top for muffins33 ........Cutting scones straight down34 ....Moistening muffins with grated apple or pear

Pages 24 to 27

EVERYDAY & CELEBRATION CAKES35 .........................................Pan size36 .................Greasing & lining pans37 ......Greasing decorative cake pans38 ............Letting cakes settle in pans39 ..................Dusting with cocoa for chocolate cakes40 ...........................Processing sugar with fruit zest41 .................Baking with dried fruit42 ...................Using a balloon whisk for dry ingredients43 ..................Double-lining pans for large fruitcakes44 .....................Testing for doneness45 ......Cutting horizontally for layers46 ...........Storing cakes in the freezer

Pages 28 to 35

FROSTING & FINISHING

47 ...................................Clean edges48 ...................Preventing icing from picking up crumbs49 .....................Keeping cakes moist50 ..............Improvising a piping bag51 .......................Mixing icing colour52 .....................No time for frosting?53 ........Quick & interesting toppings for muffins54 .............Finishing sweet tarts with a blowtorch

55 ..........Creating a smooth top layer for frosting56 ..........Finishing frosting smoothly57 .....Placing decorations in frosting58 ............Crystallizing edible flower petals for decorating 59 Cheat’s crème anglaise for serving

Pages 36 to 45

PATISSERIE, MERINGUES &

DESSERTS60 ..........................Rubbing butter in61 ......................Using ice-cold water62 ...............Rising in the refrigerator63 .......Using butter in Danish pastry64 ...How to make quick flaky pastry65 How to make a chewier meringue66 ......................How to clean a bowl for use with egg whites67 ........How to get whiter meringues68 ..............................Avoid cracking69 ...........How to stabilize egg whites70 .......How to use frozen egg whites71 ............Removing broken eggshell from batter72 .........Rolling a jelly roll or roulade without cracking73 ........How to prevent a cheesecake from cracking74 ..........How to make a good soufflé

Pages 46 to 55

PIES & TARTS

75 ..How to roll pastry for best results76 ..................How to bind pastry for a richer effect77 ..............How to prevent shrinkage & cracking 78 ..........Avoid over-flouring surfaces79 ...............................Avoid rerolling 80 ...............How to keep pastry crisp when using fillings81 ...............Making hot-water pastry82 ...................How to transfer pastry into a pie pan83 ....................What is blind baking?84 ...........Freezing pastry for later use85 .........Easy tips for flavoring pastry86 .............Making attractive pie tops

Pages 56 to 69

BREADS, BATTERS & PIZZAS

87 .........................How to start yeast88 ...................................Adding salt89 ....Ambient temperature for rising90 ...........Allowing the dough to rise91 ....The windowpane test for dough92 ..................Proofing before baking93 ......................How to make bagels94 ....................How to make pretzels95 .................How to give your bread a springy top96 .......How to achieve a professional crunchy crust97 ....How to test when bread is done98 ..........Allow to rest before cutting99 ..Handling & using ciabatta dough100 .....Handling & using pizza dough101 .........Making a stuffed-crust pizza

Index 70

Acknowledgments 72

8

The Basics

THE BASICS

READ THE RECIPE FIRSTIt is easy to get carried away by the baking impulse

when you see the tempting image of a luscious cake in a magazine or recipe book. However, it is vital to read a recipe all the way through before you start. The main questions to ask yourself are: “Do I have all the ingredients?” and “Do I have time to make this?”

ROOM-TEMPERATURE EGGSUsing room-temperature

eggs, even when the recipe does not specifically call for them, is particularly important when you need volume in a cake or dessert. This is because room- temperature eggs can be whisked more easily, resulting in a light, airy texture.

SOFTENED BUTTERBaking recipes often call for softened or room-

temperature butter. When this is the case, take the butter out of the refrigerator at least 30 minutes before you start baking. Softened butter creams more easily with sugar, creating a light, fluffy texture with little effort.

Read through a recipe before you start

Take the eggs out of the refrigerator in advance Cut the butter into small squares to soften it

9

The Basics

BUTTER OR MARGARINE?Both butter and margarine have their place in baking—and their advocates. It is not always easy to tell the difference between a cake that has been made with butter and another

made with margarine. Generally speaking, however, butter gives a richer finish to pastry, whereas margarine will give cakes a lighter, more airy texture.

TOAST SPICES TO RELEASE THE FLAVORSUsing freshly ground

spices in a recipe adds a depth of flavor that is hard to beat. If you are using fresh, whole spices, take the time to toast them first. Sprinkle the spices in an even layer in a dry frying pan, and cook them over a low to medium heat for a couple of minutes, or until they start to change color and release their fragrance. Allow the spices to cool before grinding them.

THE SOFT OPTION One of the advantages of using margarine over butter is that you do not have to wait until it has softened before working it into the other ingredients.

KEEP AN EYE ON THE PAN When you toast the spices, make sure they do not cook too quickly. It they burn, they will produce an unpleasant, acrid flavor.

Margarine mixes animal and vegetable oils

The Basics

10

GET THE SHELVES RIGHTA good recipe should tell you where to position

your oven shelves. Do not overlook this seemingly minor aspect—it is of the utmost importance to the overall success of the cake. Position the shelf before you heat the oven because hot shelves require careful handling, and time spent juggling them will inevitably result in considerable loss of heat.

BAKING SODA OR BAKING POWDER?These two baking staples often get confused. However,

they are not the same thing, so it is useful to know which product is most suitable in which circumstances. The main thing to remember is that baking soda needs an acid to activate it, whereas baking powder has had the acid already added to it.

SHELF POSITION IS IMPORTANT Moving the oven shelves before you start baking is not only safer but is more likely to result in the correct oven temperature.

BAKING SODA Baking soda can be used in any recipe where an acid is present to activate it—most commonly, lemon juice or buttermilk.

BAKING POWDER Baking powder is typically used in all kinds of baked goods where no other acid is present—for example, vanilla cakes.

Baking powder is baking soda with

added acid, usually cream of tartar

The Basics

11

DON’T OPEN THE OVEN!It is tempting, when baking, to take a peek

inside the oven to see how things are progressing. However, opening the oven door results in a sudden drop of temperature that can have serious consequences for your cake. A good rule of thumb is never to open the oven door until at least three-quarters of the cooking time allowed for in the recipe has elapsed.

OVEN THERMOMETERSThe temperature dial on your oven may give only an approximate reading. Since the temperature

inside the oven is such a vital element of a successful cake, it is worth investing in an accurate oven thermometer. You can leave it in the oven to double-check that the temperature on your dial matches the temperature inside, or use it to check and calibrate the oven’s temperature every so often.

ACCURATE READING The loss of heat resulting from opening the oven door takes a few seconds to register. Read the temperature through the glass, if possible.

BE PATIENT Opening the oven too early will result in loss of heat and a slower baking time, and it may cause delicate baked goods to drop.

Hook to attach to oven shelf

The Basics

12

BAKING WITH CHOCOLATEIf you are baking with chocolate, it is worth

buying the best-quality chocolate you can afford. If you are using dark chocolate, try to find one with a cocoa- solid content of at least 70 percent. A high cocoa-solid percentage will result in an intense, chocolatey taste rather than a cloyingly sweet one.

FLOATING TEST FOR EGG FRESHNESSUnless they come with

an individual date stamp, sooner or later we all end up with eggs of questionable freshness in the refrigerator. Before using them in your cake, make sure the eggs are still good to eat by putting them through this simple test.

MELTING CHOCOLATE A microwave is a good shortcut for melting chocolate, but the higher cocoa-solid content it has, the more likely it is to burn. Instead, melt it in a bain-marie—that is, in a glass bowl over a little gently simmering water.

FRESHNESS TEST Gently place the egg in a glass of cold water to test its freshness. The water must be deep enough for the egg to either sink or float.

Milk chocolate

Dark chocolate

White chocolate

Floating egg is no longer fresh

Egg that sinks to bottom is fresh

The Basics

13

MEASURING STICKY INGREDIENTSIf your recipe calls for a

sticky ingredient, such as honey or syrup, measuring can be a messy business. However, there is a trick to ensure that things stay tidy in the kitchen. Simply spray your measuring utensil with a thin layer of baking spray before using. This will help the ingredients slide off easily.

DIGITAL SCALESDigital scales are an essential piece

of equipment for any serious baker. Most have a zeroing, or tare, function, which enables you to measure out several different ingredients into the same bowl. The accuracy of digital scales is such that it is possible to measure out even the smallest amounts.

METRIC OR IMPERIAL? Good-quality digital scales operate both metric and imperial systems, which eliminates the need to convert grams into ounces and vice versa.

WARM & STICKY It is easier to deal with slightly warmed honey or syrup than cold. Before measuring out these ingredients, heat the container under a hot tap for a few seconds.

The Basics

14

UNSALTED BUTTER FOR EVERYTHINGSome recipes may call for both unsalted butter and salt. If

you come across this instruction, do not try to save time by using salted butter. Unsalted butter is a better option when it comes to baking, and it is far better to control the amount of salt in the recipe by adding it yourself.

USING VANILLA BEANSVanilla beans are an expensive, but sometimes

essential, luxury when it comes to fine baking. If you do invest in them, it makes sense to maximize their use. After you have scraped out the seeds, the part that is more commonly required in baking, put the empty beans to good use, too.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SALT Different salts taste different. Naturally produced flaky sea salt has a delicate, slightly sweet flavor that is complementary to most sweet baked goods.

FLAVORED MILK To refresh a used vanilla pod, place it in a pan of milk and gently heat it up. Not only will this give the pod a new lease on life but it will result in delicately flavored milk.

SUGAR STORAGE After scraping out the seeds, store the pod in a jar of granulated sugar to give it a gentle vanilla flavor.

Vanilla beans

The Basics

15

GRINDING NUTS FOR RECIPESFreshly ground whole nuts

yield a more intense nutty flavor than store-bought ones. Beware of the method you use, though. The best thing to do is to pulse the nuts in a food processor gradually, until you achieve the desired consistency. Grinding them too quickly will release the oils in the nuts, resulting in a greasy paste.

HOW TO SLICE A CAKE PERFECTLYSlicing a frosted cake neatly can be a challenge. For

perfect results every time, try the following method. Have a cup of hot water ready, and dip your knife into it to heat it slightly. Wipe it dry with a paper towel, then slice the cake. Wipe any crumbs off the knife and repeat the process for each slice.

THE PERFECT SLICE Presentation—of both the entire cake and the individual slices—is important, especially after all the effort you have put into baking it.

NUTTY CRUMBS Grinding your own nuts allows you to control the finished texture, making them perfect for decorating either cakes or cupcakes.

GRIND YOUR OWN Walnuts, hazelnuts, pistachios, macadamia nuts—you can grind all types of nuts and use them in baking.

The Basics

16

WHAT IF? NO PARCHMENT PAPERSometimes a recipe might instruct you to line a baking pan with parchment paper. If you do

not have any in the house, there is a quick fix. Use good-quality aluminum foil instead, either lightly sprayed with baking spray or brushed with melted butter or an unflavored oil.

WHAT IF? NO BUTTERMILKButtermilk is more readily available in some

locations than others. If this product is hard to find in your local supermarket, it is easy enough to make your own. Simply mix 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice or white vinegar into 8fl oz (250ml) milk. Leave it for a few minutes, until it has curdled and thickened slightly, then use it as you would use buttermilk.

ADDING ACIDIC CONTENT Fresh lemon juice is the simplest addition, but white vinegar or rice wine vinegar can also be used, if you have either on hand.

BETTER CONDUCTOR Be aware that aluminum foil will heat faster and retain heat better than parchment paper. Adjust cooking times accordingly. Baking spray

Aluminum foil

Milk will curdle with addition of acid

The Basics

17

WHAT IF? NO BAKING POWDERAs annoying as it is to

realize that you have run out of an important ingredient when you want to bake, it is often possible to improvise an alternative. Such is the case with baking powder. If you find yourself without any in the cabinet, combine ½ tsp cream of tartar with ¼ tsp baking soda. This mix can be used as a substitute for 1 tsp baking powder.

WHAT IF? NO SELF-RISING FLOURIf you should find yourself without any self-rising flour, here is a

handy substitution: simply whisk together 1 cup (4½oz/125g) all-purpose flour with 1½ tsp baking powder.

BEWARE SALT CONTENT In some countries, self-rising flour already contains salt. If you wish, you can add ¼ tsp salt per cup of flour.

Baking soda and cream of tartar

Baking powder

Baking powder

All-purpose flour

18

Cookies, Bars & Small Cakes

COOKIES, BARS & SMALL CAKES

LET COOKIES SETIt is tempting to eat home- baked cookies the moment

they come out of the oven, but it is a better idea to wait. Let them settle on their sheets for a couple of minutes before removing them to a wire rack to cool completely. When they are hot, cookies are fragile and can break easily. Plus, if you let them cool, you will not burn your mouth when you eat them!

PERFECT BROWNIESSome people enjoy brownies that are very

moist in the center, while others prefer a firmer bake. This difference in consistency depends on the cooking time, so feel free to experiment until you achieve your preferred result.

ACHIEVING EVEN BROWNNESSSome ovens are hotter on one side than the other. Test the temperature with an oven thermometer (see Tip 9). If you find that this is the case with your oven, you can still ensure

a perfectly even brownness on a batch of cookies by rotating the baking sheet halfway through the cooking time.

TIME TO REST Letting cookies rest before moving them to a cooling rack allows them to set and makes them less likely to break.

GOOEY CENTER Add 1 tbsp Greek yogurt or sour cream to the mix for an even moister brownie.

19


FREEZING COOKIE DOUGH FOR LATER USEIf you like your cookies freshly baked but do not always have time to prepare them, consider making twice as much dough

and freezing it. Scoop the extra dough, separated slightly, onto a baking sheet, then open freeze it. Once frozen, transfer the dough portions to a freezer bag. When you need extra cookies, just place them on a baking sheet and bake for a couple of extra minutes, straight from frozen.

HEAVY BAKING SHEETS AT HOT TEMPERATURESGood-quality heavy baking sheets and pans are essential when baking at high temperatures. A good sheet distributes heat

uniformly, ensuring an even cake, whereas a cheaper one may brown the outside of a cake before it is cooked through. The same is true with the undersides of cookies and cookies. In addition, a good-quality sheet will not warp in high heat.

HANDY BACKUP Having a bag of pre-portioned cookie dough in the freezer is very convenient when friends or family drop by unexpectedly.

PAYING FOR QUALITY It is well worth investing in good-quality nonstick baking pans—they will produce consistently good results for years to come.


20

USING A LUMPY MIX FOR MUFFINSMuffins are among a small

number of baked goods where less beating achieves better results. Muffin batter should be mixed together only until the wet and dry ingredients are just combined. The mixture ought to look a little lumpy. If it is overworked and appears smooth, the muffins will have a dense, rubbery texture.

A TIP FOR FILLING LINERS FOR CUPCAKESCupcakes should be

beautifully uniform in size, risen perfectly just above the rims of the papers. To achieve this result, use an ice cream scoop or large cookie scoop to portion out the batter evenly, and do not fill the papers to the brim. This will also help you avoid dripping the batter on the edges of the papers.

USING COOKING SPRAY FOR EASY PORTIONINGSome cake batters and

cookie doughs are sticky and difficult to portion out neatly, even using an ice cream scoop. Try spraying the scoop lightly with baking spray first. This helps the batter slide out easily in one go. Wipe the scoop with a paper towel and spray again if needed.

HAND MIXING IS BEST Gentle mixing by hand will give you more control over the finished result and make it easier to avoid overmixing.

Ice cream scoop with release


21

REMOVE CUPCAKES FROM THE PAN IMMEDIATELYIt is common practice to let a large cake set in its pan for a few minutes after removing it from the oven. However, smaller cakes,

such as cupcakes, can continue to cook if left in a hot pan. This is why it is advisable to remove them as soon as possible, taking great care not to burn your fingers. Leave on a wire rack to cool.

EASY REMOVAL When lifting cupcakes out of a hot pan, gently tug at both sides of the paper at the same time for an even, mess-free removal.

Cookies, Slices & Small Cakes

22

FILLING EMPTY PANS WITH WATERThere may be times when, even though you are following a recipe, you might end up not using every space in a 12-hole muffin pan. Before baking, carefully fill the empty spaces half

full of water. This will help distribute the heat and allow the other cakes to bake more evenly.

A SOFT TOP FOR MUFFINSMuffins bake at quite a high temperature, and

it is not uncommon to find that the tops are a little overcooked by the time the inside is done. A simple trick to rectify this is to cover the muffins with a clean, dry dish towel while they cool. The resulting steam will soften the tops slightly, making them perfectly moist.

WATER WITH CARE Using a liquid measuring cup, pour the water until halfway up the sides of the pans before gently sliding the tray into the oven.

DISH TOWEL TRICK This trick works best with simple muffins; those with a crunchy streusel topping (see Tip 53) should always be left uncovered.

Pour water into empty spaces

Cookies, Slices & Small Cakes

23

MOISTENING MUFFINS WITH GRATED APPLE OR PEARMuffins have a reputation for being delicious straight out of the oven, but they tend to taste dry and stale within only a couple

of days. To keep them moister for longer, try adding some grated apple or pear, or even a little mashed banana, to the mix.

CUTTING SCONES STRAIGHT DOWN

When cutting out scones or biscuits, do not be tempted to twist the cutter slightly to release them. This action will cause the edges to bind together, leading to the scones rising unevenly. A straight up-and-down cutting motion is needed for a perfectly risen result.

ADDED MOISTURE A single apple, peeled and grated, can be added to almost any muffin mix to produce a moister, longer-lasting muffin.

SHARP METAL CUTTERS Round metal cutters are preferable to plastic ones, since they give a far sharper result and will last for years.

ADDED TEXTURE Small pieces of diced fruit added to the mix will give your muffins extra texture, as well as increase their moistness.

24

Everyday & Celebration Cakes

EVERYDAY & CELEBRATION CAKES

PAN SIZEUsing the correct-sized pan is of the utmost importance when

baking. The depth of the batter will impact a cake’s cooking time, so be sure to measure the pans before you start.

GREASING & LINING PANSTo prevent your baked goods from sticking to the bottom and sides of the pans they are baked in, grease the pans or line them with waxed or parchment paper. It is wise to do this even with nonstick pans. This

could save your cake from having to be cut out of the pan in multiple pieces.

Use different pans for different baking purposes

BUTTER & FLOUR Rub the inside of the pan with butter, then sprinkle it with flour. Allow the flour to reach every corner, then shake off the excess.

BUTTER & PAPER After brushing the inside of the pan with a little melted butter, line the bottom and sides with cut-to-size parchment paper.

Rub pan with butter

Brush pan with melted butter

Dust off excess flour

Line pan with greaseproof paper

25


DUSTING WITH COCOA FOR CHOCOLATE CAKES

Dusting a cake pan with flour (see Tip 36) is mostly a good idea, but it does not work well with chocolate cake, since it can lead to a less than perfect result, with specks of white flour on the outside. Try dusting the pan with a little unsweetened cocoa powder instead.

LETTING CAKES SETTLE IN PANSWhen you take a cake out of the oven, allow it

to sit in the pan for at least 10 minutes before turning it out onto a cooling rack to cool completely. The timing is of critical importance: turn the cake out immediately, and it will likely stick to the pan; leave it too long, and it will become dense.

PROCESSING SUGAR WITH FRUIT ZESTCitrus zest can be

added to most recipes. The best way to maximize the burst of citrussy flavor zest brings is by mixing it in a food processor with the sugar before creaming.

GREASING DECORATIVE CAKE PANSThe best way to grease

decorative cake pans is with baking spray, or with melted butter and a pastry brush, to make sure you get into every corner. Sprinkle the greased pan with a little flour, then tip out any excess for a truly foolproof result.

ZESTING TOOLS Invest in a zesting tool that you can use exclusively for citrus fruit; however, at a pinch, you can use a cheese grater.

Perfect end result

Get into every groove of pan


26

USING A BALLOON WHISK FOR DRY INGREDIENTSSome recipes call for sifting, a simple procedure that separates any coarse

elements in a dry mix, therefore ensuring the lightest possible end result. However, if time is at a premium or if you do not have a sieve, you can produce a similar (and less messy) effect by whisking together dry goods in a large bowl with a balloon whisk.

DOUBLE-LINING PANS FOR LARGE FRUITCAKES

A large fruitcake is a dense thing, and it takes a long time to cook all the way through. This is partly because it must bake at a low temperature to prevent the fruit from burning and losing its sweetness. It is possible to prevent the outside of the cake from cooking or over-browning before the inside is set by using a heavy pan and double-lining it with parchment paper.

CUTTING THE RIGHT SHAPE Take out the bottom of the pan and use it as a template to cut two disks of parchment paper that will fit neatly into the pan.

FLOURY COAT Remove a couple of tablespoons of the measured flour and use them to lightly coat the dried fruit before mixing it into the batter.

BAKING WITH DRIED FRUITWhen baking a fruitcake, the batter should be thick

enough to keep the dried fruit from sinking to the bottom. If your batter is not quite right, however, there is a simple trick you can use: lightly toss the dried fruit in a little flour before incorporating it into the batter.

QUICK & EASY Whisk together the dry ingredients needed for your baking to replicate a sifting effect.


27

CUTTING HORIZONTALLY FOR LAYERSCutting a cake horizontally

to create the elements for a layer cake can be tricky. The important thing is to get an even result, so take your time.

TESTING FOR DONENESSDepending on the oven, the time it takes to bake a cake can vary considerably. The main thing to bear in mind is not to check too soon, or the cake will drop. Open the oven only after

at least three-quarters of the cooking time have passed. A cake with a cooking time of 25 minutes, for example, can be checked after 20 minutes.

STORING CAKES IN THE FREEZERIf you are baking ahead, you may need to freeze your cake. For best results, the cake should be frozen as sponges only—no filling or icing. Cool the cake completely, and wrap

each piece individually in parchment paper followed by several layers of plastic wrap, then freeze for up to two months.

DONE TO THE TOUCH When a cake is cooked, it should have an even light-brown color. It should also spring back when gently pressed in the center.

CHECK THE INSIDE A metal skewer inserted into the center of a cake should come out clean, with only a little moisture on it.

MAKING LAYERS Secure the top of the cake with the palm of your hand and cut carefully, rotating the cake as you go.

28

Frosting & Finishing

FROSTING & FINISHING

CLEAN EDGESA common mistake made by amateur bakers is to frost and finish a cake,

then move it to a serving plate. This inevitably results in the frosting cracking and can ruin a lot of hard work. Frost a cake directly on the serving plate you intend to use to prevent this from happening.

PREVENTING ICING FROM PICKING UP CRUMBS

Decorating a cake takes a little practice, and often crumbs will get into the frosting, affecting the overall neatness of the result. To avoid this, coat the cake with a thin layer of melted and cooled jam, or thinned frosting, before applying the final layer of frosting.

PARCHMENT PAPER TRICK Insert strips of parchment paper under the edges of the cake to protect the serving plate as you work. Then slip them out after the frosting is finished.

QUALITY FINISH A slightly flexible metal palette knife is an essential piece of equipment for a professionally finished cake.

29


KEEPING CAKES MOISTCupcakes are delicious, but they don’t keep well. Because they are so small, they have a tendency to dry out more

quickly than larger cakes. To prevent this from happening, be sure to frost them right to the edges of the paper, because this will effectively create an airtight seal around the cake.

IMPROVISING A PIPING BAGPiping bags can be difficult to clean and

unwieldy to hold, especially for small quantities of icing. Try improvising your own using a small, strong plastic freezer bag—it’s easy to hold for small detail work, and it’s disposable, too.

SPIRAL FROSTING For perfect frosting, start around the edges, close to the paper, and spiral around the cake to finish in the center.

Beautifully frosted cupcakes

1 Spoon the icing into one corner

of the bag, pushing it down gently to avoid air bubbles, which can spoil the finish.

2 Tie or clip the top of the bag, then use a pair of sharp scissors to

snip off a small corner. Squeeze the bag gently to release the icing.


30

MIXING ICING COLORFood coloring can transform plain white

frosting, turning your cake into a beautifully bright or prettily pale creation. Be aware that a little food coloring goes a long way. For best results, use the tip of a wooden skewer or toothpick to add the coloring a little at a time, until you achieve the desired result.

NO TIME FOR FROSTING? Baking can be a time-consuming affair, and

sometimes there isn’t the opportunity to cool a cake, frost it, and allow the frosting to set before it is served. However, if time is a concern, you can still present a pretty, unfrosted cake. Simply use stencils to add a decorative edge to a fine dusting of confectioners sugar.

VARIED COLOR PALETTE To achieve more unusual shades and colors, try combining several colors together, always a little at a time.

TIME-SAVING DECORATION Cut your own shapes and use a small sieve or tea strainer to control the amount of confectioner’s sugar you sprinkle over the finished cake.

Small sieve allows delicate sprinkling

Stencils create shapes

Bottle of food coloring


31

STREUSEL TOPPINGA streusel topping adds a sweet, crumbly crunch to muffins, cakes, and other baked goods. A quick streusel topping can be made by rubbing together cold, diced butter, some soft light brown sugar, a handful of oats, and some cinnamon. This streusel mix stores well in the freezer, in a ziplock bag, and it can be used straight from frozen. Try making a large batch and storing the rest for later use.

FINISHING SWEET TARTS WITH A BLOWTORCHA blowtorch can transform the look of a simple tart in a matter of seconds. Make

sure that the tart is chilled before you begin—this will prevent the filling from heating with the flame. Sprinkle a thin layer of very fine sugar over the top of the tart, and use the blowtorch to achieve a brûlée effect.

QUICK & INTERESTING TOPPINGS FOR MUFFINSMuffins are some of the simplest, fastest things to bake, and they can contain a wide variety of dried fruits and nuts, as well as

other flavorings, either sweet or savory. Simple toppings, such as a handful of chocolate chunks, a quick streusel topping, or dried banana chips, can add a final flourish to these delicious baked goods.

Make a large batch and use as needed

CARAMELIZING Any set custardlike filling can be finished off with a blowtorch and caramelized. Just make sure the tart is well chilled before applying any heat. Leave to set before serving.

Flame can be adjusted


32

CREATING A SMOOTH TOP LAYER FOR FROSTING When making a layered sponge cake, instead of creating two layers out of one thick sponge (see Tip 45), which can be quite

tricky, bake two separate sponges. The domed surface of a well-risen cake can be hard to decorate. However, some simple trimming and careful selection can banish any unevenness in minutes, giving your cake the best surface for frosting.

1 Let the sponges rest for at least 5 minutes in their pans; this allows them to set up

and makes them easier to remove.

3 Apply the filling to the base layer before placing the second sponge in position,

choosing the best, flattest side to be the top.

2 When the sponges are cool, carefully trim off any uneven surfaces using a

large serrated knife and a sawing motion.

4 A perfectly flat surface will make frosting the cake a simple task and give it a truly

professional finish.


33

FINISHING FROSTING SMOOTHLYThe perfect finish to a cake is frosting that has a smooth, even surface. Using a ganache works well here, since this is poured over the cake, and its semiliquid nature makes it

easy to achieve a perfectly smooth finish before it hardens. However, a buttercream frosting can be harder to coax into a smooth finish. A few simple tricks can speed the process along.

1 Dip a large, flexible metal palette knife in hot water. The heat will melt the frosting

slightly, smoothing its surface as you work.2 Wipe the knife quickly to remove any

excess water that might spoil the frosting while retaining the heat in the blade.

3 Work around the sides of the

cake, rotating it as you go. Use the full extent of the blade to sweep the frosting on the top into a perfectly smooth finish.


34

PLACING DECORATIONS IN FROSTINGDecorating a just-frosted cake can be even harder than frosting one smoothly. A soft ganache may mean the decorations sink in before it hardens; but spend too long frosting, and a simple icing-

sugar-and-water frosting can harden before all the decorations are stuck down.

CRYSTALLIZING EDIBLE FLOWER PETALS FOR DECORATINGTo add a truly professional flourish to a special-occasion cake, try crystalizing real flowers as decorations. For the best results, find a

selection of brightly colored edible flowers. Make sure they have fairly sturdy petals and that they are not likely to wilt too quickly.

2When you are happy with the overall look, use a small piping bag and a little simple

frosting to stick the decorations to the cake.

2 Toss some very fine sugar over the petals, and leave the flowers to dry,

separated, in a cool, dark place until set.

1To establish how best to arrange the decorations, work it out on the dry, frosted

cake first before sticking them down.

1 Beat together 1 egg white with ½ tsp water, and use this mixture to gently

brush the petals all over.


35

CHEAT’S CRÈME ANGLAISE FOR SERVINGA classic crème anglaise is a simple, stylish sauce that may be served with a rich cake or torte, rather

like a thin homemade custard. However, when time is short, try this simple fuss-free alternative, which can be conjured up from just a few basic ingredients.

Delicious, pourable crème anglaise

QUICK CRÈME ANGLAISE Whisk as much cream as you’ll need with 1 tbsp confectioner’s sugar and ½ tsp vanilla extract to a thick pouring consistency. Serve in a pitcher.

Single or double cream

Confectioner’s sugar

Vanilla extract

36

Patisserie, Meringues & Desserts

PATISSERIE, MERINGUES & DESSERTS

RUBBING BUTTER INIf you wish to make pastry, it is essential that the butter is well chilled before you begin to rub it into the flour. Rubbing butter in by hand takes little effort and is the best way of

controlling the end result, since using a food mixer for this task can often result in overprocessing.

USING ICE-COLD WATERUsing cold water, or even ice water, to bind pastry together

is a simple way to achieve better results. Ice water prevents the fats in the pastry from breaking down, which would leave the pastry crumbly and difficult to handle when rolling out.

1 Use only your fingertips to rub the butter into the flour. This little trick prevents the

mixture from overheating. 2 For simple pastry, the finished result

should have the texture of coarse breadcrumbs.

Pitcher of chilled water

37


RISING IN THE REFRIGERATORCertain baked goods, such as cinnamon rolls, are

better served fresh for breakfast, but they are too time-consuming to prepare on the spot. Plan ahead and allow the second rising to happen in the refrigerator overnight. Just be sure to bring the rolls to room temperature before baking as usual.

USING BUTTER IN DANISH PASTRYMost recipes for Danish pastry call for the butter to be rolled out between pieces of parchment paper before incorporating it into the dough. However, this is a sticky and time-consuming process.

For a simple, fuss-free result, try cutting well-chilled butter into slices and laying them directly onto the pastry.

1 Keep the butter in the refrigerator until it is time to use it to ensure it is well chilled

and firm. Cut it into equal-sized slices.

3 Fold the other half of the dough over the butter, pressing the edges together

to seal it in.

2 Lay the slices of butter evenly on one half of the pastry, making sure you leave

a small border all around.

4 Flour the dough well and roll it out into a rectangle 3⁄8in (1cm) thick, before

folding and chilling it as required.

Perfectly risen cinnamon rolls


38

HOW TO MAKE QUICK FLAKY PASTRYMaking a classic flaky pastry involves a time-consuming process of layering the butter over the dough (see Tip 63), then folding, rolling, and chilling it numerous times for the lightest, flakiest result.

Although this traditional method makes a fine pastry, when time is short it is possible to adopt this simple and speedy alternative, which produces pleasing results and is a lot less messy, too.

HOW TO MAKE A CHEWIER MERINGUEThere are times when

a crisp meringue is called for, and others when a chewier result is what is required. To give your meringue a chewier finish, gently fold a teaspoon each of cornstarch and white-wine vinegar into the mixture before cooking.

1 Put the butter in the freezer for 30 minutes or until it is semifrozen to allow it to be

grated easily. 2 Gently incorporate the flour into the butter

flakes until it is only just combined. This helps retain the texture of the pastry.

FRESHNESS IS IMPORTANT Baking staples such as cornstarch lose their efficacy if old or stale, so check the date.White-wine vinegar


39

HOW TO CLEAN A BOWL FOR USE WITH EGG WHITES

Whisking egg whites can be a difficult process—even the smallest amount of shell or egg yolk in the bowl can cause the whites to resist your efforts to bring them to soft or stiff peaks. For perfect results every time, go through the following procedure. First of all, ensure that the bowl is perfectly clean, free of any greasy or dusty residue. Next, rub the inside of the bowl with the cut side of a lemon or a little white vinegar, then wipe it dry with a paper towel before beginning to whisk the egg whites.

HOW TO GET WHITER MERINGUESThe secret to producing

meringues of remarkable snowy whiteness, with a crisp exterior and a hollow interior, is a long, slow cooking time. An extremely low oven heat helps (the ideal temperature being around 240ºF/120ºC). If your oven doesn’t go low enough, consider using a wooden spoon to prop the door open slightly.

DELICIOUS MERINGUES A meringue is ready when it is crisp on the outside and sounds hollow when tapped gently on the underside.

CITRUS LAYER To avoid waste, cut just a little off the end of a lemon—enough that the flesh is exposed—rather than using a whole half.


40

AVOID CRACKINGMeringues are fragile goods and can crack

easily once cooked, which can be very frustrating because they take so long to bake. Meringues tend to crack because they are susceptible to sudden changes in temperature. Prevent this from occurring by turning off the oven when they are ready and leaving them to cool inside.

HOW TO STABILIZE EGG WHITESThe more stable the

egg-white mixture, the more likely it is to hold its shape and cook into a perfectly crisp, peaked meringue. Although good whisking should achieve this, sometimes a little extra help is needed. Try adding some cream of tartar, white vinegar, or a few drops of lemon juice to the mix after the sugar is incorporated.

COOLING MERINGUES Once they are cool to the touch, place the meringues on a rack and allow them to cool completely before storing.

FOLDING IN THE STABILIZER Be gentle when adding the stabilizing agent into the mix, so as to lose as little volume as possible before baking.


41

HOW TO USE FROZEN EGG WHITESIf you bake on a regular basis, you will often need the odd egg yolk to bind together a rich pastry. When this is the case, do not throw away the leftover egg white, but freeze it in an

airtight container until you have enough to make meringues. There is no need to try to remember how many you have —just defrost them, weigh them, and use double the weight of sugar to egg whites for perfect meringues.

REMOVING BROKEN EGGSHELL FROM BATTER

Every baker knows how annoying it is to crack an egg into cake batter or a bowl only to see a few small pieces of shell appear in the batter, too. It can be remarkably hard to fish bits of eggshell out with a teaspoon or any other kitchen implement. Instead, try using the broken half of the eggshell —the sticky interior of the shell will attract the loose pieces and make them easier to remove.

MINIMIZING SHARDS Cracking the eggs on a flat surface, such as the counter, rather than the sharp side of a bowl, reduces the likelihood of shards.

EGG-TO-SUGAR RATIO Weighing egg whites is a simple trick for calculating the amount of sugar needed for meringues. Use digital scales (see Tip 13) for maximum accuracy.


42

ROLLING A JELLY ROLL OR ROULADE WITHOUT CRACKINGA roulade is a great dessert for a special occasion or dinner, and it has the added advantage of being easy to transport and serve.

To ensure that your roulade makes a good impression on the dinner table, below are a couple of tricks you can use to prevent it from cracking—often the result of an overcooked sponge.

1 When the sponge is ready to come out (see Tip 44),

remove it from the oven and invert it onto a clean, damp tea towel while it is still hot.

2 Tightly roll the sponge up around the damp dish towel before leaving it to cool. This will help it

keep its shape.

PERFECT ROULADE When the sponge has cooled, carefully unroll it, then fill it and reroll it. If the odd crack appears in the sponge, try disguising it with a decorative flourish.


43

HOW TO PREVENT A CHEESECAKE FROM CRACKINGRather like meringues, cheesecakes take a long time in a cool oven to cook correctly. Also like meringues, they tend to crack

if exposed to quick changes in temperature while they cool. After a lengthy preparation and cooking time, cheesecakes need an equally lengthy cooling time, ideally still inside the oven, to ensure a perfect finish.

2 If you are happy that the cheesecake is baked all the

way through, turn off the oven. Do not remove the cheesecake, but allow it to cool inside.

1 A cheesecake is done when the surface springs back when gently pressed with a finger and the

edges begin to come away from the pan.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS Once the cheesecake has cooled and chilled, gently slice it with a sharp knife, and serve it with a fruit coulis or other suitable sauce.


44

HOW TO MAKE A GOOD SOUFFLÉSoufflés have a well-deserved reputation for being difficult to make. Every single aspect of the process—the method, the timing, and even the serving—has to be absolutely correct to produce a perfectly risen

dessert. However, with the tips detailed below, making a soufflé can become a fairly straightforward technique to master.

1 A well-greased ramekin, brushed with melted

butter, will help the soufflé rise evenly.

4 Thoroughly whisk the milk into the roux and

heat it slowly, stirring to avoid any lumps.

7 Wait until the mixture is quite cool before beating

in the egg yolks, to prevent them from overheating.

2 Dust the inside of the ramekin with fine sugar,

and tap out any excess, to stop the batter from sticking.

5 Try adding simple flavorings, such as citrus

zest, to improve the flavor of a soufflé.

8 Whisk the egg whites well to form medium

peaks so that they will maintain their shape later.

3 Cook out the flour in the melted butter. Do this

over a low heat to prevent it from browning.

6 When it is time to add the sugar, stir it well

to ensure that it has dissolved fully.

9 When adding the beaten egg whites, start with

a single spoon to loosen the mixture.


45

10 Gently fold in the remaining egg whites,

being careful not to lose any volume in the process.

11 Carefully pour the mixture into the center

of the ramekin, filling it up almost to the rim.

12 Rub your finger gently along the inside of the

rim to indent the mixture and help it rise straight.

13 When ready, the soufflés should be golden and well risen but still a little molten in the center.

They should be served immediately.

46

Pies & Tarts

PIES & TARTS

HOW TO ROLL PASTRY FOR BEST RESULTSWhen working with pastry, the best advice is to keep everything as cool as possible. This includes the environment (the kitchen

and the work surface), any tools (from a rolling pin to your hands), and, of course, the pastry itself. Marble boards are ideal for rolling out pastry because they tend to remain cool.

COOL IS THE WORD Roll out chilled pastry on a lightly floured surface with a good rolling pin, and apply a gentle pressure to achieve an even surface.

47

Pies & Tarts

HOW TO BIND PASTRY FOR A RICHER EFFECTAlthough pastry is

commonly made with water, it is also possible to bind it with anything from sour cream to milk for a different effect. Some bakers swear by a teaspoon of vodka to produce perfect pastry.

HOW TO PREVENT SHRINKAGE & CRACKINGThere are several reasons why pastry shrinks or cracks on cooking, and most concern the overdevelopment of the gluten

in the flour. To prevent this from happening, do not overwork your pastry, and always allow it to rest before cooking.

FOR A RICHER CRUST An egg yolk beaten with a little cold water can be used to bind the dough together to produce a richer crust.

2 Wrap the pastry in plastic wrap and chill it for 30 minutes to allow the gluten to

relax before rolling it out.1 Bring the pastry together as quickly

as possible, taking care not to handle it excessively.

Pies & Tarts

48

AVOID OVER-FLOURING SURFACESWhen rolling out pastry,

especially a rich, buttery one, it is tempting to keep sprinkling flour on both the pastry and the work surface to prevent it from sticking. However, whenever you do this, you are unintentionally incorporating potentially significant amounts of flour into your delicate pastry. This added flour could change the structure of the pastry, making it hard and dry, so try to be as frugal as possible when flouring the work surface.

AVOID REROLLINGRolling out pastry is an acquired skill. As you roll it out, pastry might crack and stick, and in those instances you will have to bring it back together and reroll it. Beware, however, of doing

this too often. The additional handling creates heat and activates the gluten in the flour. The resulting pastry could therefore become tough and more liable to shrink on baking.

A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY A good pastry prepared correctly and in a cool kitchen should roll out well without too much added flour.

WASTE NOT You can put any scraps of pastry to good use. However, rather than rerolling them into a bigger piece, which is likely to cause the pastry to shrink, try making a few simple tart shells, fill them with jam or lemon curd, and bake them until golden.

Pies & Tarts

49

HOW TO KEEP PASTRY CRISP WHEN USING FILLINGS

Once a pastry crust is blind-baked (see Tip 83), it is ready to be trimmed and filled. Placing uncooked fillings, such as cream or crème pâtissière and fresh fruit, directly on the pastry will result in the bottom of the tart case turning soggy. To prevent this from happening, create a protective layer—for example, with jam.

1 While the pastry is still warm, use a small, sharp knife to trim away the

excess pastry from the rim of the case.

2 Melt a small quantity of jam or chocolate, and use it to brush

the bottom of the tart case before leaving it to set.

3 Once the lining is set, fill the tart with your chosen filling, and

decorate as required.

Pies & Tarts

50

MAKING HOT-WATER PASTRY With its use of lard or vegetable shortening, hot-water pastry should be an occasional treat rather than an everyday pastry. Having said that, it is not difficult to

prepare, and it produces a gloriously rich, flaky result that is unlike any other kind of pastry. Hot-water pastry is particularly suitable for use with meat products, such as pork and game.

1 Sift the dry ingredients in a large bowl and create

a well in the center.2 Gently pour the hot

melted fat and water into the well.

3 Use a wooden spoon to stir the mixture together

until it is well combined.

4 Handling the hot pastry carefully,

work to bring it together. You will have to be quick, since it will harden as it cools.

Pastry is easy to work while hot

Be careful not to burn your hands

Pies & Tarts

51

HOW TO TRANSFER PASTRY INTO A PIE PAN

After you have made and rolled out your pastry, you will have to transfer it from the work surface to a pan. This can be a tricky business, because pastry can break if it is picked up incorrectly. However, the simple method illustrated here will ensure that pastry can be moved quickly and successfully every time.

1 Prepare the pastry as usual, rolling it out on a lightly floured work surface to your

required thickness.

2 Roll the pastry around the rolling pin, then gently

unroll it directly over the pan.

3 Press the pastry firmly into the bottom edges of the pan,

then up the sides, before trimming off any excess.

Pies & Tarts

52

WHAT IS BLIND BAKING?Blind baking is a simple, extremely useful method of prebaking an empty tart crust for filling or for storing and using at a later date. The technique is not as difficult as it seems, and it ensures that

the bottom of a pie or tart will be cooked through even with the wettest filling. It is possible to purchase ceramic baking beans that can be used over and over; a cheaper alternative is to use dried chickpeas or other beans, making sure to label them as blind-baking beans when you store them for future use.

1Prick the bottom of the pastry case with a fork to allow steam to escape. This prevents

the pastry rising and forming air bubbles.

3 Make sure that the baking beans are evenly distributed, covering the bottom

of the case in a thick, uniform layer.

2 Line the pastry case with a sheet of parchment paper and fill it with ceramic

baking beans or dried chickpeas.

4 Once the pastry case is cooked, gently remove the beans and paper. Cook for

a further 5 minutes to finish the base.

Pies & Tarts

53

FREEZING PASTRY FOR LATER USEFreezing blind-baked pastry cases is a great way to prepare ahead when you have to bake for a large number of people or a special occasion. Bake your pastry cases, wait for them to cool, then wrap

them individually in plastic wrap, followed by a layer of aluminum foil. Finally, make sure you label them before freezing. The edges of the pastry cases may get knocked and broken if they are piled up or crushed in the freezer, so store them carefully. Even better, freeze individual pastry cases, then stack them in a large container in the freezer.

FILL WHEN READY TO EAT Fill the still-frozen pastry cases with the desired filling, and bake them in the usual manner. The baking will refresh the pastry, leaving it as crisp as when it was first cooked.

FREEZE NOW, FILL LATER It is best to freeze pastry cases unfilled, since the filling can deteriorate in the freezer over time.

Pies & Tarts

54

EASY TIPS FOR FLAVORING PASTRYOnce you have mastered the art of making simple pastry, there are many different twists you can put on it to make it your own.

Both sweet and savory pastry can be flavored with various herbs and spices to complement the filling. Add just a little to begin with, then bake a small piece of the pastry while the remainder rests in the refrigerator to see how the flavors work out before you decide whether to add more.

FLAVORINGS FOR SAVORY PASTRYFresh herbs such as basil can be blended in a food processor with the flour (adding the butter afterward) to make an attractive summery pastry. A very small sprinkling of thyme, oregano, or sage can be added to a savory pie or cobbler topping.Sun-dried tomato paste adds flavor and richness to a Mediterranean tart; or try using your favorite seeds and spices. Finally, if you’re after a pleasing contrast of flavors, try adding grated strong cheddar to an apple pie crust.

SAVORY Savory fillings need only a complementary herb processed into the flour to add color and flavor to the dish.

SWEET A simple addition to any sweet pastry is a couple of tablespoons of granulated sugar, which gives a sweet, crisp finish to the pastry. Cocoa can also be added in place of some of the flour.

Pies & Tarts

55

MAKING ATTRACTIVE PIE TOPSAs key as the taste of a pie is, presentation is also important, and finishing a pie with a decorative design will make it more appealing. There are several techniques that can give your pies

the flourish they deserve, from a simple pinch-to-crimp border to a more elaborate feathering effect. Cut vents in the top to allow steam to escape.

TWISTED RIBBON Holding a 1in- (2cm-) wide pastry strip at one end, twist it from the other end. Secure it in place.

FLUTED Pinch the pastry while making indentations at a slight angle in the edge.

FEATHERED Make 1in (2cm) cuts, ½in (1cm) apart, into the edge of the pastry. Fold every other flap of pastry back, diagonally, along the edge of the pie.

SCALLOPED Press your forefinger firmly onto the pastry rim, then use the tip of a table knife to indent the pastry on either side of your finger.

BRAIDED Cut out three ½in- (1cm-) wide pastry strips long enough to go around the entire pie. Braid them together, then position the braid on the pie.

Simple and neat border Make cuts with

kitchen scissors

Moisten edge of pie with water before positioning braid

Pastry strip is long enough to go around whole pie

Use forefinger and thumb to pinch pastry

56

Breads, Batters & Pizzas

BREADS, BATTERS & PIZZAS

HOW TO START YEASTStarting yeast to make bread usually involves

activating dried yeast with warm water. The temperature of the water is of paramount importance: if it is too cold, the yeast will not activate; but if it is too hot, it will kill the yeast. The ideal temperature of the water is room temperature or lukewarm. A pinch of sugar can help, too.

END RESULT After a few minutes at room temperature, the mixture should foam up and start to bubble slightly.

USING YEAST Pour the dried yeast (make sure that it is in date) into the warm water, and whisk until it has completely dissolved.

Bubbles and craters on surface of yeast

57


ADDING SALTMost breads benefit from the addition of a little salt to enhance

their flavor. However, it is important to add the salt at the right time. Adding salt directly to the yeast can kill the yeast and stop the bread from rising. To get around this, add the salt to the flour separately from the activated yeast mixture.

AMBIENT TEMPERATURE FOR RISINGIn order for bread dough to rise well and quickly, it needs to be left at the correct temperature. If the temperature is too low, the dough will still rise, albeit very slowly; however, when the

environment is too hot, there is the real risk of killing the yeast and stopping the rise altogether. The ideal place for your dough to rise is a warm room, somewhere between 70ºF (21ºC) and 90ºF (32ºC). Before leaving the dough to rise, cover it with greased plastic wrap.

MIXING SALT IN Use a balloon whisk to distribute the salt into the flour evenly before adding the activated yeast mixture.

IDEAL ENVIRONMENT An oven that has been gently warmed for a few minutes, then turned off makes a suitable rising place.


58

ALLOWING THE DOUGH TO RISETo make sure the dough rises well, put it in a large, clean bowl with

plenty of room for it to expand. Spray the inside of the bowl with a little baking spray, then gently place the dough in the bottom. Also spray one side of a large piece of plastic wrap, and use it, sprayed side down, to seal the bowl.

THE WINDOWPANE TEST FOR DOUGHThe windowpane test is a simple check that can tell you, at a glance, whether your bread has been kneaded enough and is ready for the next stage. Take a walnut-sized piece of dough

and stretch it between the thumbs and forefingers of two hands to make a thin sheet of dough. If the dough is semitranslucent and lets light through it without breaking or tearing, then it is ready to move on.

SEALING THE BOWL A warm, draft-free environment will help the dough rise, so make sure the bowl you use is well sealed with plastic wrap.

KNEADING WORKOUT Use the heel of your hand to push the dough down and away from you to help stretch it out and encourage the necessary elasticity.

LOOKING THROUGH THE DOUGH To establish whether you have kneaded your dough sufficiently, stretch a small piece of it between your hands. It should not tear.


59

PROOFING BEFORE BAKINGAfter bread has risen for the first time (see Tip 90), it is kneaded briefly (called “knocking back”) before being shaped into its final form. It is then left to proof, or rise, for

a second time. To help a loaf proof successfully, cover it in greased plastic wrap and keep in a warm, draft-free environment, as with the first rise. After proofing, the dough may need scoring before baking.

SCORE FOR CONTROL Scoring a loaf of bread just before baking helps control the direction and height of the rise that will occur in the oven.


60

HOW TO MAKE BAGELSBagels are among those baked goods that should be enjoyed as fresh as possible, preferably while they are still warm, right out of the oven. Although professional bagel bakeries have

huge steam ovens to help them produce perfect results, the home baker can easily replicate the process.

1 Whisk together all the dry ingredients in a

large bowl until they are well combined.

4 Place the dough in a greased bowl in a

warm place, and let it rise until doubled in size.

7 Roll and pull each piece of dough until it looks

like a fat cigar, about 10in (25cm) long.

2 Add a mixture of activated yeast, water,

and a little oil, then bring the dough together.

5 Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface,

and divide it into equally sized pieces.

8 Wrap each dough cigar around your

knuckles, joining it underneath your palm.

3 Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface

for 10 minutes, until it is stretchy and smooth.

6 Roll each piece of dough gently under the palm of

your hand until it forms a fat log shape.

9 Gently squeeze the join together to make

a large ring shape, with a large hole.


61

10 Place the bagels on a lined baking sheet,

while you continue to shape the rest of the dough.

13 Bring the water to a boil, then turn down the

heat and poach each bagel for 1 minute on each side.

11 Cover the bagels with plastic wrap greased

with baking spray, and leave to rise for a second time.

14 Remove the bagels from the water with a

slotted spoon, and dry them with a clean dish towel.

12 Preheat the oven and at the same time put

a large pan of water on the stove to heat.

15 Return the bagels to the baking sheet

and brush them with a little egg wash.

16 Now the bagels are ready to be put in

the oven. Once baked, they should be golden brown, well risen, and glossy to the touch.

Color is pleasant golden brown


62

HOW TO MAKE PRETZELSMuch like bagels (see Tip 93), pretzels also taste their best the moment they come out of the oven. Although the process for making pretzels is rather lengthy, it is not difficult, and the

simple dough needed can be converted into sweet or savory pretzels, or even wrapped around hot dogs for the ultimate pretzeldog.

1 Whisk the dry ingredients required in a large bowl,

and mix them until they are well combined.

4 Knead the dough for about 10 minutes, until

it is smooth.

7 Divide the dough into equally sized pieces

and roll them into short, fat log shapes.

2 Sprinkle dried yeast over warm water. Leave

it to rest for 5 minutes to activate it.

5 Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl

and let rise in a warm place until it has doubled in size.

8 Roll the pieces under the palms of your hands,

stretching them until they are about 18in (45cm) long.

3 Combine the wet and dry ingredients, and

bring them together to form a soft dough.

6 Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface

and gently knock it back (knead out excess air).

9 Take each end of the dough and cross them

over each other to form a heart shape.


63

10 Twist the ends of the dough around each

other, as though they had linked arms.

13 While the oven is heating, mix ¼ tsp

baking soda with 2 tbsp boiling water.

16 Five minutes before they are due to come

out of the oven, brush the tops with a little egg wash (beaten egg mixed with milk or water) for a final glaze.

11 Secure the ends to the sides of the

pretzel—it should still be quite loose.

14 Brush the risen pretzels with this

mixture. It gives them their typical color and crust.

17 Once cooked, serve them warm, straight

from the oven, with butter, honey, or a little mustard.

12 Put the pretzels on a lined baking sheet and

cover with plastic wrap. Rise them again in a warm place.

15 Scatter flakes of sea salt or sesame seeds

over the pretzels before putting them in the oven.


64

HOW TO GIVE YOUR BREAD A SPRINGY TOP Ensure that your bread

has a light, springy crust by baking it in a steamy oven. Steam is especially important during the first part of the baking. To introduce steam to the oven, place a roasting pan half full of boiling water in the bottom of the oven just before baking your bread. There are also a few other tricks you can use.

SPRAY THE BREAD A little water sprayed onto the top of the bread just before cooking should help give it a light, springy crust.

SPRAY THE OVENTry spraying the bottom and sides of the oven briefly before you put the bread in, and every ten minutes while it is cooking. Be sure to spray and close the door again quickly, though.


65

HOW TO ACHIEVE A PROFESSIONAL CRUNCHY CRUST Next time you buy good-quality bread from a professional bakery, notice its underside, which should have a nice,

crunchy crust. Similarly, a good pizza should have a crisp base. This crunchy finish comes from baking in professional ovens that reach very high temperatures. However, there are a few simple yet effective tricks that can help you achieve these results at home.

PIZZA CRUST A perfect thin-crust pizza should have a crisp base, as well as being slightly blistered at the edges and puffed up in places. Scatter the baking tray with a little fine cornmeal to help achieve this.

BREAD CRUST Good homemade bread should be golden brown and well risen, with a crunchy top crust. To help the underside of the bread get crisp, put a little scattered flour or semolina on the tray before baking.


66

HOW TO TEST WHEN BREAD IS DONE To ensure that each loaf is baked to perfection, do not open the oven until at least the minimal cooking time mentioned in your recipe has passed (see Tip 8). At this stage, the most accurate way

of determining whether bread is fully baked consists of inserting a thermometer into the center of the loaf. The temperature should be 200ºF (94ºC). If you don’t have this tool, you can still use sight and sound to determine doneness.

VISUAL INDICATIONS Bread that is baked to perfection should be golden brown in color and have a dry, firm crust. It should also detach easily from the baking sheet or pan.

DOES IT SOUND COOKED? Carefully pick up the bread—use a dish towel to avoid getting burned.

Knock on the underside with your knuckles. If it sounds hollow, it means

it is ready to come out of the oven.


67

ALLOW TO REST BEFORE CUTTING It is tempting to cut into home-baked bread as soon as it comes out of the oven and to enjoy a slice while it’s still hot. However, if you do so, you will end up with a damp, compressed loaf that

will remain misshapen where you’ve cut it. Allow the bread to rest for at least 20 minutes before you cut into it. This interval will allow the interior steam to disperse gradually, leaving the bread light and springy.

PROFESSIONAL FINISH Bread that has been allowed to rest is easier to cut into uniform slices and more likely to stay together without crumbling.

Soft, springy inside


68

HANDLING & USING CIABATTTA DOUGH

If you are baking ciabatta bread, make sure that the dough is wet and loose on kneading, since this will help create the large air pockets traditionally found in the finished loaf. Wet doughs are much easier to knead in a machine fitted with a dough hook. If you don’t have this particular attachment, however, follow the steps below.

USE YOUR HOOK When kneading wet dough, a hook prevents the dough from becoming warm and sticky, as it would if you kneaded it by hand.

AIR POCKETS Soft, sticky dough is difficult to handle, but it is the only way to obtain a well-risen ciabatta loaf with the customary large air pockets inside.

1 Carefully tip the risen dough out of the bowl and onto the work surface, trying

to handle it lightly.2 Knead with your knuckles, trying not to

incorporate too much extra flour into the dough, which should remain loose and wet.


69

HANDLING & USING PIZZA DOUGHPizza dough is similar to ciabatta dough (see Tip 99), in that it should be a loose, damp dough that is quite delicate to handle. With pizza dough, gentle stretching rather than

vigorous rolling is the best way to achieve the desired shape without losing valuable air pockets in the dough.

MAKING A STUFFED-CRUST PIZZA Once you’ve mastered the art of baking pizza, you can start experimenting with various toppings and finishes. The heart of the pizza is a good, homemade tomato sauce and fresh

mozzarella. After that, anything goes—even a stuffed cheesy crust.

ROLL IT Roll the pizza dough out as gently as possible, putting only very little pressure on it.

HANG ITUse your hands to stretch the dough, and let it hang by its own weight until it gradually grows larger.

STRETCH IT Finally, use your hands to gently stretch the enlarged dough to its final shape on a lightly floured baking sheet.

1 If you wish to create a stuffed cheesy crust

for your homemade pizza, use shredded mozzarella (not buffalo).

2 Press handfuls of the cheese into thin

sausagelike shapes, and place them around the edge of the pizza.

3 Roll the edges of the pizza dough over the

cheese, sealing it with a little egg wash, then bake as usual.

70

Index

INDEX

A Bapples, in muffins 23 bagels 60–61 bain-maries 12 baking powder 10, 17 baking soda 10, 17 baking sheets 19 balloon whisks 26 biscuits cutting out 23 blind baking pastry 52 blowtorches, finishing sweet

tarts 31 bowls, cleaning 39 bread ciabatta dough 68 crust 64–5 kneading 58, 68 proofing 59 resting before cutting 67 rising 57–8 salt 57 testing for doneness 66 yeast 56 brownies 18 butter 9 in Danish pastry 37 greasing pans 24 quick flaky pastry 38 rubbing in 36 softened butter 8 unsalted butter 14 buttercream frosting 33 buttermilk 16

Ccakes 24–7 cupcakes 20, 21, 29 cutting horizontally 27 frosting 28–30, 32 fruitcakes 26

cakes (continued) preparing pans 24–5 settling in pans 25 slicing 15 testing for doneness 27 caramelizing 31 cheesecakes, cracking 43 chocolate 12 brownies 18 dusting cakes with cocoa

25 ganache 33, 34 melting 12 ciabatta 68 citrus zest 25 cocoa, dusting cakes with

25 color, icing 30 cookies 18–19 cooking spray 20 cream of tartar 17, 40 crème anglaise 35 crumbs, icing cakes 28 crust, bread 64–5 crystallizing flowers 34 cupcakes 20, 21, 29 custard 35 cutters 23 cutting cakes horizontally 27

DDanish pastry 37 decorations crystallizing flowers 34 in frosting 34 pie tops 55 digital scales 13 doneness, testing for

27, 66 double-lining pans 26 dried fruit 26

Eeggs frozen whites 41 removing shells from

batter 41 soufflés 44–5 stabilizing whites 40 temperature 8 testing for freshness 12 weighing whites 41 whisking whites 39

Ffeathered borders 55 flaky pastry 38 flavoring pastry 54 flour rolling out pastry 48 self-rising flour 17 flowers, crystallizing 34 fluted pastry borders 55 foil, lining pans 16 food coloring 30 freezing cakes 27 cookie dough 19 egg whites 41 pastry 53 frosting 28–30 color 30 decorations in 34 piping bags 29 smooth top layer for 32 smoothing off 33 spiral frosting 29 fruitcakes 26

G Hganache 33, 34 parchment paper 16 greasing pans 24, 25

71

Index

grinding nuts 15 honey, measuring 13 hot-water pastry 50

I J K icing see frostingimperial measurements 13 ingredients, measuring 13 jelly rolls 42kneading bread dough

58, 68

Llayer cakes 27 lemon juice 16, 40 lining pans 16, 24, 26

M N Omargarine 9 measuring ingredients 13 melting chocolate 12 meringues 38–40 metric measurements 13 milk, vanilla 14 muffins mixing ingredients 20 moistening 23 soft tops 22 toppings 31 nuts, grinding 15 ovens 10, 11

Ppans 19 filling with water 22 greasing 24, 25 lining 16, 24 sizes 24 transferring pastry to 51 pastry 46–55 binding 47 blind baking 52 crispness 49 flavoring 54 freezing 53 hot-water pastry 50 ice-cold water 36 preventing shrinkage 47 quick flaky pastry 38

pastry (continued) rolling out 46, 48 rubbing in butter 36 transferring to pie pan 51 pears, in muffins 23 pie tops 55 pies, pastry 46–55 piping bags 29 pizza 65, 69 braided pastry decorations

55 pretzels 62–3 proofing bread dough 59

Rrecipes 8 refrigerators, rising baked

goods in 37 ribbon pastry decorations

55 rising bread 57–8 rolling pastry 46 roulades, rolling out 42 rubbing in butter 36

Ssalt 14, 57 savory pastry 54 scales, digital 13 scalloped borders 55 scones, cutting out 23 self-rising flour 17 shelves, oven 10 sifting ingredients 26 slicing cakes 15 soufflés 44–5 spices, toasting 9 spiral frosting 29 sponges 32, 42 steam, baking bread 64 stencils 30 sticky ingredients,

measuring 13 storing see freezingstreusel topping 31 stuffed-crust pizza 69 sugar finishing sweet tarts with

blowtorches 31

sugar (continued) processing with citrus

zest 25 vanilla 14 sweet pastry 54 syrup, measuring 13

Ttarts finishing sweet tarts with

blowtorches 31 pastry 46–55 testing for doneness 27, 66 thermometers, oven 11 toasting spices 9 toppings, muffins 31 trays 19 twisted ribbon pastry

decorations 55

U Vunsalted butter 14 vanilla beans 14 vinegar 40

W Y Zwater binding pastry 36 filling empty pans with 22 whisking egg whites 39 whisks 26 windowpane test, bread

dough 58 yeast 56 zesting tools 25

72

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Sands Publishing Solutions would like to thank: Caroline Bretherton for her efficient and concise writing, as well as for her assistance in fine-tuning the contents at the outset; Natalie Godwin for design assistance; and the ever-brilliant Hilary Bird for making such swift work of the index.

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following photographers: Peter Anderson, Clive Bozzard-Hill, Tony Briscoe, Martin Cameron, Claire Cordier, Andy Crawford, Peter Gardner, Steve Gorton, Will Heap, Ruth Jenkinson, Dave King, David Munns, David Murray, Simon Murrell, Ian O’Leary, Gary Ombler, William Reavell, Matthew Richardson, Charles Schiller, Howard Shooter, Clive Streeter, Carole Tuff, Kate Whitaker.

Picture creditsAll images © Dorling Kindersley.For further information, see www.dkimages.com

Acknowledgments

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