1 210 Top ExpEriEncEs

2

3

1

10 Top Experiences

Mughal Gardens in Srinagar

If there is paradise on earth, this it is. Emperor Jehangir was the first to describe Kashmir in such glowing terms. And he didn’t stop at just singing paeans to Kashmir’s ethereal beauty. The three most stunning gardens in Srinagar (p22) were built during his reign. Strung out around Dal Lake, these have terraced lawns, fountain pools and manicured flowerbeds punctuated with chinar trees and pavilions. Nishat Bagh, with a 12-level terracing split down the middle by a cascading water channel, is the best. The two other gems are Shalimar Bagh and Chashme Shahi, the latter known for its natural spring.

Little Tibet in McLeodGanj

Named after David McLeod, a lieutenant-governor of Punjab, McLeodGanj (p44) was established in the 1850s as a British garrison and served as an administration centre for the colonisers till 1905.

Toy train ride from Kalka to Shimla

We have always loved a train ride, especially one on a toy train. The narrow-gauge railway track from Kalka to Shimla (p70) is a feat of engineering accomplished over 150 years ago. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, this is the same route that has enjoyed a Bollywood moment – in Jab We Met (2005) starring Kareena Kapoor and Shahid Kapoor. The Kalka–Shimla route covers a remarkable 1400m over a distance of 96km, passing through more than 100 tunnels. The ride is fun any time of the year, though chugging through a snow-covered landscape is what we like best. The Himalayan Queen is a popular train on this route, but the Shivalik Deluxe is altogether more comfortable.

It made headlines in 1960, when the Dalai Lama claimed asylum here. And with him came thousands of exiles, turning this Himachali town into Little Tibet. A centre for the study of Buddhism and Tibetan culture, McLeodGanj is a mix of both the serene and the lively. The revered Tsug-lha-khang Complex, equivalent of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, houses a wooden pulpit for the Dalai Lama’s discourses, His Holiness’s private office, residence, a monastery and the Kalachakra Temple. The town, teeming with tourists, pilgrims and monks in maroon robes, is a foodie and a shopper’s haven. You will find many cuisines here, but the meaty momos and soft Tibetan breads rule the chart.

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

3 4EasT & norThEasT

East & Northeast OverviewFrom the tea-flavoured hills of West Bengal (p162) in the east go on to experience the mountainous forested regions of the Northeast. Here the mighty Himalayas give way to Mt Khangchendzonga, the world’s third-highest mountain near Sikkim (p168). Arunachal Pradesh (p186) exposes you to pristine Buddhist monasteries and tribal culture at Ziro. Take in the rugged countryside and fascinating tribal villages of Nagaland (p194) and Meghalaya’s (p198) hillside villages.

Getting There & AwayAir: For Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya fly to Guwahati from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a 4x4 vehicle for the trip from there. You can also fly to Dibrugarh in Assam from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a vehicle from there for central Arunachal Pradesh and Ziro Valley. For Sikkim fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi from there to Gangtok. Fly to Dimapur from Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there for Kohima in Nagaland. To reach the hills of Darjeeling in West Bengal fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there.

Rail: Take Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri (NJP), and hire a taxi from there for Darjeeling. The nearest railhead to Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Meghalaya is NJP. Hire a vehicle from here to Gangtok, Ziro Valley and around, Kohima and Shillong.

East & Northeast

WEST BENGAL1 Darjeeling 2 Kalimpong3 Kurseong

SIKKIM4 Gangtok 5 Namchi6 Pelling7 Yuksom8 Ravangla

9 Tsopta Valleya Gurudongmar Lakeb Yumthang Valley

ARUNACHAL PRADESHc Old Dirangd Se-la Passe Tawangf Pasighatg Ziroh Along

NAGALANDi Kohimaj Khonomak Tuophema

MEGHALAYAl Shillongm Cherrapunjee

KohimaTuophema

Khonoma

DarjeelingKurseong

GangtokNamchiPelling

YuksomRavangla

GurudongmarLake

Tsopta ValleyYumthangValley

Kalimpong

Pasighat

Ziro

Along

Cherrapunjee

Shillong

Tawang

Old DirangSe-la Pass

25678

a9b

13

4

ij

k

l

m

f

g

h

e

cd

C H I N A

BHUTAN

Barail Ran

ge

Brahmap

utra

Riv

er

Brahmaputra River

ARUNACHAL PRADESH

A S S A MSIKKIM

BANGLADESH

NAGALAND

WEST BENGAL

Tura

BongaigaonJalpaiguri

Coochbehar

Itanagar

Dibrugarh

Siliguri

SilcharBalurghat

Guwahati

B

GuwahatiAirport

–

00 200 km0 100 miles

A young monk in festive attire at a monastery in Sikkim

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

Gangtok & Around I SIKKIM

Fluttering prayer flags spread across the foothills outside Gangtok

5 6GanGTok & around

GETTING THEREAir: Fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi to Gangtok.

Rail: Take the Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or the Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri station, and hire a taxi from there.

Road: Taxis and buses ply the 115km stretch between Siliguri and Gangtok through the day. For a trip to East Sikkim, charter a 4x4 vehicle from Gangtok.

BEST TIME TO GOOctober–November, March–May

SAFETY TIPRoads in East Sikkim are prone to landslides and sudden closures during heavy rain or snow. Always check in advance.

Quick Facts

Why go?

A happy hunting ground for tourists from neighbouring states, Gangtok is a pleasant hill station with a laidback and friendly population. No one seems to be in a hurry here, and life is generally about taking things easy over a warm cup of coffee or a chilled pint of beer, while enjoying splendid views of Mt Khangchendzonga lording over the townscape. An excursion to the village of Rumtek (to view the grand Rumtek Monastery), combined with a jaunt to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La, only adds more variety to this thoroughly enjoyable vacation.

1 NAMGYAL INSTITUTE OF TIBETOLOGYHoused in a traditional mansion, this delightful museum is stuffed with myriad artefacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Sikkimese and Tibetan culture in Gangtok. Established in 1958 for scholastic and cultural research, its ground-floor hall displays Buddhist manuscripts, icons, thangkas and Tantric ritual objects, while the library on the 1st floor houses invaluable Buddhist manuscripts, some dating back several hundred years. Further up along the road leading to the main museum is the Do-drul Chorten, a large white stupa surrounded by dormitories for novice monks and glass-walled galleries with countless flaming butter lamps burning within.`10; www.tibetology.net; Deorali; 10am– 4pm

2 ENCHEY GOMPA This ambient monastery stands to the north of Gangtok, veiled by a forest of gently rustling conifers. It’s easily Gangtok’s most attractive, with fantastic murals and statues of Tantric deities. The child monks living in the monastery are a friendly lot, and will tail you noisily as you go about exploring the monastery. The place comes alive for the colourful Detor Chaam masked dances held in December/January; try to be there if you can. 4am–4pm Mon–Sat, 4am–1pm Sun

Highlights1 Namgyal Institute

of Tibetology2 Enchey Gompa3 Ganesh Tok4 Gangtok Zoo5 Rumtek Monastery6 Tsomgo Lake7 Nathu La

Stretched along rolling foothills in the shadow of the majestic Mt Khangchendzonga, Gangtok is a lively hill station with some fabulous sightseeing around it. To top it off, an excursion to the icy heights of Nathu La earns you some adventure points.

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

7 8GanGTok & around

4 Accommodation Hotel Nor-Khill Heritage ```%03592-205637; www.elginhotels.com; PS Rd, Gangtok; `8700 In

the pre-Independence era, this

stately property served as the royal

guesthouse of the Chogyals. Bearing

testimony to its heyday are countless

historical photos, period furniture and

exquisite Tibetan carpets that lend

vintage appeal to the hallways and the

lobby. The hotel is lavish, to say the

least. And rates include all meals.

Hotel Sonam Delek Hotel ``%03592-202566; www.hotelsonamdelek.com; Tibet Rd, Gangtok; `3000 A trusted favourite

among seasoned travellers, this place

offers matchless service, hearty

food and great value for money. The

cheaper standard rooms (`1540) in

the basement have direct access to

a superb rear terrace with sweeping

mountain views. The deluxe rooms

have private balcony views, king-size

beds and prim furnishings. Breakfast

is complimentary.

Hidden Forest Homestay `%03592-205197; www.hiddenforestretreat.org; Middle Sichey village; `2000 For an

alternative lodging experience, try

this family-run homestay – secluded

amid fruit trees, orchids and flower

nurseries – about 2km out of town.

The Tibetan-themed rooms have

balconies, the delicious food comes

from the solar-powered kitchen, a

resident cow provides dairy produce

and all vegetable waste is composted.

A taxi from town costs `150.

Mintokling Guest House Guesthouse `%03592-208553; www.mintokling.com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1850 Draped by exotic foliage and set about

a pretty garden dotted with prayer

flags, this lodge-like family home is an

island of tranquillity. The rooms come

with pinewood wall panels and sport

upholstery made from traditional

fabric. The traditional menu at the

restaurant is a must-try.

Hotel Pandim Hotel `%9832080172; www.hotelpandim.com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1550 Located near the ridge, this budget

hotel offers good service and the best

beds in town within a budget. There’s

Hotel Nor-Khill was a guesthouse for the Chogyals, the Sikkimese royals

6 TSOMGO LAKEPronounced ‘Chhangu’, this scenic high-altitude lake sits at 4420m about 38km northeast of Gangtok, towards Nathu La. Permits are required to visit the area, but if you charter a local vehicle, the driver can arrange these. The journey to the lake takes about 90 minutes up a perilous mountain road. Upon arriving, you can stroll by the waters, or cross over to the other side of the lake via a culvert for photo-ops. Pony and yak rides, tea, noodles and momos are available along the shore.

7 NATHU LASome 18km ahead of Tsomgo Lake is the Nathu La, which – at 4145m – could have provided superb travel access between Sikkim and Tibet had the pass not been closed to the public. As a tourist, however, you can go right up to the border and take photos of Tibet on the other side. Permits for visiting the pass can be processed along with those for Tsomgo Lake. The Indian Army stands vigil along the entire route to the pass, and can help in the event of any health or automobile-related emergency.

Value for Money: Shared ridesIf you are travelling alone or as a couple, you can always share a ride to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La with other small groups. A Sumo or Scorpio plying the route take in as many as seven passengers, so if you can work up a full house, you could spare yourself the steep fee of nearly `4000 for the entire vehicle and do the trip for only around `700 per person.

Combine a visit to Tsomgo

Lake with Nathu La

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

• Dzongri/Goecha la (7–9 days): This is the most popular trek in Sikkim, famed for its superb mountain views, floral spectacles in summer, birdlife and pristine forests. In a very short time you reach high mountain meadows and glaciers and are face to face with Khangchendzonga. Climb the hill above the Dzongri Hut at dawn for a view of the mountains right across the valley, including Pandim, Kabru, Ratong and Narsing.

• Uttarey to Phoktey Dara (4 days): This trek climbs from Uttarey in West Sikkim to a ridge top for amazing views of the Himalayan peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Khangchendzonga and Makalu.

• Rhododendron Trek, Hillay to Barsey (half day): The 4km walk to the Barsey rhododendron sanctuary passes through forests with a view of

Khangchendzonga in the foreground. During spring, this part of the trail is ablaze with rhododendron blossoms.

• Ravangla to Mainom Top (one day): The 3km steep climb from the town brings the trekker to the hill top of Mainom. The walk is thorough the Mainom Wildlife Sanctuary rich in birdlife and flowers.

• Pemayangtse to Sangacholling Monastery (half day): This is a walk along a ridge joining the two monasteries. From Sangacholling, one can see all the peaks of the Khangchendzonga range as well as some of the most important monasteries in West Sikkim, including Khechuperri, Pemayangtse and Dubdi.

Expert Recommendation Best treks in SikkimSujoy Das is the founder of South Col Expeditions and has been trekking in the Himalayas for more than 30 years. He knows the mountains like the back of his hand.

Pemayangtse, set on a hilltop, is one ofSikkim’s oldest monasteries

9 10GanGTok & around

good food (against advance order)

served at the cosy terrace sit-out. The

entrance is confusing; remember the

reception is on the top floor.

5 Eating9’INE Sikkimese ``MG Marg, Gangtok; meals `180–200 Glass-fronted and stylishly appointed,

this restaurant serves an awesome

spread of local delicacies such as

sisnoo, gundruk ko jhol and fiery pork

curry. If the dishes sound unfamiliar,

the friendly proprietor can help.

Taste of Tibet Tibetan `MG Marg, Gangtok Popular with

Gangtok’s youth, this eatery serves

the best Tibetan food in Gangtok with

dishes costing between `70–100.

Jostle with students and monks around

tiny tables and wolf down generous

servings of momos, noodle soup,

shyabhale (fried meat pasty) – and that

chilled bottle of local Dansberg beer.

Baker’s Cafe Cafe `MG Marg, Gangtok; dishes `40–90 The coolest breakfast escape on

MG Marg, this cosy cafe has strong

espresso, iced lemon tea, croissants,

paninis, pizzas and pastries. You may

have to wait for a table in the evenings.

6 NightlifeCafe Live & Loud Lounge Barwww.thriceasmuch.com; Tibet Rd, Gangtok; drinks from `120 The star

of Gangtok’s live music scene, this

lounge bar hosts gigs by rock, blues

and alternative bands every Thursday,

Friday and Saturday evenings. There’s

a full bar and food menu, and a cafe

terrace outside.

2 ActivitiesSikkim Tourism Development Corporation Adventure %03592-203960; www.sikkimtourism.travel; MG Marg, Gangtok Views of Gangtok can

be enjoyed from helicopter flights

operated by STDC (`7590 for five

persons, 15 minutes). Book in

advance. STDC also has information

on white water rafting on the Teesta,

paragliding, trekking and biking.

7 ShoppingGolden Tips Teawww.goldentipstea.com; Kazi Rd, Gangtok; tea packs from `300 This boutique store stocks an

exhaustive selection of premium

Darjeeling and Sikkimese teas. The

produce is sold in gift-sized packages

(175g to 250g).

Handicrafts & Handloom Emporium CraftsZero Point, Gangtok; souvenirs from `1000 This government initiative

teaches traditional crafts to local

students and markets their products,

including toy pandas, carpets, Tibetan

furniture and handmade paper.

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.