10 of the Best Restaurants and Cafes in Lisbon

7/26/2019 10 of the Best Restaurants and Cafes in Lisbon

1/8

10 of the best restaurants and cafes in LisbonAs Lisbon's biggest market is transformed into a gourmet food hall, we take a look at thebest places to eat in Portugal's capital, a city renowned for its seafoodand custard tarts

Have you been to Lisbon? Tell us about your favourite place to eat in thecomments below Share 85

17 inShare1 Email

Isabel Choat theguardian.com,Thursday 26 June 2014 12.49 BST Jump to comments (19)

Lisbon's new food court, Mercado da Ribiera, is a collection of 35 shops and restaurants selling regional specialities.Photograph: Arlindo Camacho/Time Out

Time Out Mercado da Ribeira, Cais do Sodr

Within weeks of its opening in May 2014, the new food court at Mercado daRibeiraLisbon's biggest fresh food markethas become a firm favouriteamong Lisboans. The first permanent foodie venture for Time Out, the markethosts a total of 35 kiosksall branded in the same smart black and whitesignage and selling regional specialities, including Azeito sheep's cheese,plates of ham from the Alentejo, and custard tarts from award-winning cafe

Aloma. Tins of sardines in beautiful retro packaging at the Conserveira deLisboa, wines from Garrafeira Nacional or chocolates from Arcdia makegreat presents to take home. In addition, five top chefs haverestaurantshere,

offering clever dishes playing with Portuguese flavours from 5 (marinatedmackerel with gazpacho at Alexandre Silva). Settle yourself at one of the highwooden benches and it would be very easy to while away a few hours eating
https://www.facebook.com/sharer/sharer.php?u=http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/profile/isabelchoathttp://www.theguardian.com/profile/isabelchoathttp://www.theguardian.com/http://www.theguardian.com/http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbon#start-of-commentshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbon#start-of-commentshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/restaurantshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/restaurantshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/restaurantshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/restaurantshttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/lisbonhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbon#start-of-commentshttp://www.theguardian.com/http://www.theguardian.com/profile/isabelchoathttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbonhttps://www.facebook.com/sharer/sharer.php?u=http://www.theguardian.com/travel/2014/jun/26/10-of-the-best-restaurants-cafes-in-lisbon


2/8

your way aroundPortugal's culinary highlights. The original fish, fruit andvegetable stalls on the other side of the huge 19th century building still selltheir wares every day, except Sunday, until lunchtime.Avenida 24 de Julho Lisbon, open from 10am to midnight (Sunday to

Wednesday), 10am to 2am (Thursday to Saturday)

Cervejaria Ramiro, Intendente

Nicknamed the seafood temple, Ramiro is a historic Lisbon institution, welldiscovered by tourists but still loved by locals. This is the place to come to

indulge in the country's fantastic seafoodglass cabinets display fabuloustiger prawns, huge red scarlet shrimp, spikey shellfish (known as spiny dye-murex), crab, lobster, oysters, and of course, the classics in everyPortuguese restaurant: clams andpercebes(barnacles). Originally opened in1956, Ramiro's is a well-oiled machine with slick, speedy service from waiterswho zip about holding giant platters of seafood aloft, but still have time for a

joke with regulars, or to indulge childrenmy son was given paper andpencils and lots of hair ruffles. Piles of toasted bread dripping in garlic butterare brought to your table while you waitand replenished when you

inevitably polish them off. If you can, leave room for a prego, a steaksandwich which is usually served after the seafood. Get there early to avoidqueuing, although the staff do their best to keep hungry punters happy,offering drinks to those standing in line.Avenida Almirante Reis 1, +351 21 885 1024,cervejariaramiro.pt

Decadente, Bairro Alto
http://www.theguardian.com/travel/portugalhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/portugalhttp://www.theguardian.com/travel/portugalhttp://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/http://www.cervejariaramiro.pt/http://www.theguardian.com/travel/portugal


3/8

The Independente Hostel & Suites is one of the city's impressive crop ofstylish hostels and the Decadente is its in-house restaurant, an atmospheric,funky space that appeals as much, if not more, to locals and non-guests as itdoes to the budget-conscious residents. Big shuttered windows, artfullyarranged vintage kitchen finds and low-hanging table lamps create a stylishbackdrop for a modern Portuguese menu, including seafood rice (describedon the menu as Portugal on a plate), Iberian pork belly and cod with honeyand almonds. Tables spill out into a pleasant cobbled courtyard.Rua de So Pedro de Alcantara 81, +351 21 346 13 81,theindependente.pt

Cantinho do Avillez, Chiado

Jos Avillez is one of Portugal's most famous chefs, a trailblazer in the samemould as Ferran Adri and Heston Blumenthal, and owner of Michelin-starredBelcanto and the new Mini Bar, a bar with gourmet, experimental canaps.Cantinho do Avillez, his bistro, is a small, simple room embellished with

industrial chic featuresfactory lights and a concrete floor. Olives werebrought to our table with a delicious tomato and olive oil dip and filigree-thin
http://www.theindependente.pt/explore-us/decadent/?lang=enhttp://www.theindependente.pt/explore-us/decadent/?lang=enhttp://www.theindependente.pt/explore-us/decadent/?lang=enhttp://www.theindependente.pt/explore-us/decadent/?lang=en


4/8

toast. The menu cherry-picks from international cuisines with the likes of lambtagine, steak tartar with New York potatoes and suckling pig with Asianflavours. My tuna main course was the most tender piece of the fish I've evereaten, and prawns were sweet and fresh. Go at lunchtime and order the

steak sandwich (8.75) or dish of the day (10.50) to keep the bill down.Even at night, the prices (starters from 4.50, mains from 17.25 and desertsfrom 5) are a lot less than you would pay for a similar meal and service inmany other European cities. Worth splashing out for.Rua dos Duques de Bragana 7, + 351 21 199 2369,cantinhodoaville.pt

Tgide Wine and Tapas Bar, Chiado

This fabulous tapas bar is in upmarket Chiado, below the famous restaurantof the same name. There are two lunch options: one course for 8.50 or threefor 12.50, both including a glass of wine and coffee. Or order separate smallplates of Ibrico ham (9) or the Portuguese classicamijoas bulho

pato(clams in white wine and garlic). If you haven't already gorged oncustard tarts, the 12.50 menu is worth it for Tgide's version, served warm

with cinnamon ice-cream. Set in an elegant room of glossy dark wood andshelves lined with Portuguese wines, overlooking the town hall, it's a place tolinger. Largo da Academia Nacional de Belas Artes 18 and 20, Chiado, +351 213404 010,restaurantetagide.com

Kiosks and churrascarias, city-wide
http://www.joseavillez.pt/en/cantinho-do-avillezhttp://www.joseavillez.pt/en/cantinho-do-avillezhttp://www.joseavillez.pt/en/cantinho-do-avillezhttp://www.restaurantetagide.com/wine.htmlhttp://www.restaurantetagide.com/wine.htmlhttp://www.restaurantetagide.com/wine.htmlhttp://www.restaurantetagide.com/wine.htmlhttp://www.joseavillez.pt/en/cantinho-do-avillez


5/8

In Lisbon kiosks aren't the desperate last resort of late-night commuters, butcivilised rest spots on some of the city's famous hills or in shady parks, andoffering decent snacks, reasonably priced fresh juices, good coffee, beer,even cocktails. Many have been in the same spot for decades, their originalwrought iron restored; newer ones are replicas but are painted the sameclassy racing green as the originals. As an example, the kiosk opposite theIndependente hostel in Bairro Alto sells draft Sagres for 2, coffee for1.20,sandwiches from 3.80 and soup of the day for 3. Come at happy hour (6-9pm) when a (150ml) beer costs 1.50 and a caipirinha 6, and nab one ofthe deckchairs offering views across the terracotta rooftops.

Every neighbourhood has at least one churrascariaor grill. The Churrascoda Graa in the villagey neighbourhood of the same name is a classicexample ... white paper tablecloths, TV on in the corner, tables full of locals.Grilled sardines cost 8, as does half a chicken (a great takeaway option ifyou're staying nearby).Largo da Graca 43

Atira-te ao Rio, Cacilhas


6/8

Lisbon is a city of spectacular views. Numerous miradors, rooftop terracesand historic towers provide panoramas. But if you want to see the whole citystretched out along the river bank you need to cross the Tagus to the southbank. Ferries run from Cais do Sodr to Cacilhas four times an hour until1.20am. A short walk alongside abandoned riverside warehouses brings youto this little restaurant where a few tables and chairs lit by torches are setalong the water's edge. There are tables inside (and fishing nets on theceiling) but the point here is the view: you come here to see the sun settingbehind the 25 de Abril suspension bridge and, as darkness falls, the twinklingorange lights of the city. The food's pretty good too. Nibble on tuna pt,

olives, bread and olive butter as you choose between confit cod, fish stew orPortuguese steak. Our dinner for two with beer, a glass of wine and twopuddings came to 44.Cais do Gingal 69/70, +351 21 275 1380,atirateaorio.pt

SeaMe, Chiado
http://www.atirateaorio.pt/http://www.atirateaorio.pt/http://www.atirateaorio.pt/http://www.atirateaorio.pt/


7/8

A modern take on the seafood restaurant, SeaMe has solid wooden tables,waiting staff in grey Mao-style jackets, waitresses sporting I'm a Fish addictT-shirts, and a menu sprinkled with slogans ... 'Good things come to thosewho wait', and so on. Naff wording aside, SeaMe offers an Asian-inspired

menu that makes an interesting change from the classics seen in most otherrestaurants. Alongside sushi and sashimi there's pan fried Azores parrot fish;seared tuna comes with wasabi ice-cream; and other fish listed include JohnDory, grouper, turbot, cod, red mullet and Dover sole.Rua do Loreto 21, +351 21 346 1564,peixariamoderna.com

'The Nuns' Canteen' (Associao Catlica Internacional ao Servio daJuventude FemininaACISJF)

Tucked away on an unmarked side street, with a discreet sign on the door,this is a place few Lisboans know about, let alone tourists. Run by a Catholicassociation (hence the nickname), it's a favourite among students and localoffice workers who come here to eke out their euros6.50 buys you a maincourse and either soup or a dessertserved from a hatch by women in nylonaprons and hairnets. At that price you can't expect gourmet food but it's

freshly cooked and comes with a gorgeous view from the roof terracetucked between the lush gardens of expensive apartmentsof the rooftopsand the suspension bridge. A bargain lunch with a spectacular view.Travessa do Ferragial 1, +351 213 240 910

Margem
http://www.peixariamoderna.com/http://www.peixariamoderna.com/http://www.peixariamoderna.com/http://www.peixariamoderna.com/


8/8

Belm is one of the most touristy parts of Lisbon. They come by thecoachload to see Belm tower, the spectacularJernimos Monastery,and ofcourse, thePastis de Belm,the cafe that invented the famous custard tart,and still sells up to 20,000 of them a day. Despite their popularity the familyowners have admirably refused to open other outlets, which means longqueues for takeaways but it's easy to nab a seat in the labyrinthine interior. Atart of crispy, flaky pastry filled with meltingly creamy custard and sprinkledwith cinnamon sugar costs a modest 1.05. They are dangerously moreish soavoid if you want an appetite for Margem, a 10-minute walk along thewaterfront. Housed in a gleaming white former shipping container with views

of the river from its open side, Margem is a cool, trendy spot that attractswell-heeled locals and some tourists. There's a selection of sandwiches (from6.50), salads (from 9.80) or fill up on custard tarts before you arrive andjust take in the view over a glass of 5.20 wine as sailing boats glide past.Not cheap, but a good option in a part of the city big on American chains andlow on decent places to eat.Doca do Bom Sucesso, Santa Maria de Belm, +351 91 7824149,amargem.comAdditional reporting by Celia Pedroso
http://www.mosteirojeronimos.pt/pt/index.phphttp://www.mosteirojeronimos.pt/pt/index.phphttp://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/http://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/http://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/http://www.amargem.com/http://www.amargem.com/http://www.amargem.com/http://www.amargem.com/http://www.pasteisdebelem.pt/http://www.mosteirojeronimos.pt/pt/index.php

Documents

10 of the Best Restaurants and Cafes in Lisbon