1 NOVEMBER 2018 VOL. 13

E.O.P.C.

Essential oils , Perfumery & Cosmetics

OFFICIAL NEWSLETTER FOR BNAEOPC MEMBERS

CONTENT 2

Content:

Climbazole: Europe is planning new restrictions ................................................................................ 3

Euromonitor: deeper insights into fragrance for personal care ...................................................... 3

From "borderline" products to cosmetics… How to find your way around? .................................. 3

Geltor shows bio-tech collagen at in-cosmetics North America .................................................... 4

Hair dyes A160 and C183, Preservative HEPB: three requests for Opinions to SCCS .................... 4

Hot Topics: Top 5 trending beauty and cosmetics news stories on social media ........................ 4

in-cosmetics North America technical expert shares formulation highlights ................................ 5

Innovations and trends on display at in-Cosmetics Asia’s new series of R&D tours ..................... 6

Is packaging leading the way for sustainable beauty? ................................................................... 6

Israel's beauty market: innovative cosmetic products and ingredients ........................................ 7

Keep Calm and Smell Linalool: Study Confirms Anti-anxiety Link .................................................... 7

Latest beauty formulation and science updates from around the world ..................................... 8

Member States to evaluate 100 substances in 2019-2021 ................................................................ 8

Patent Pick: Pumpkin, Shea and More for Elegant Occlusion and Care ....................................... 9

The skin care category you may have missed ................................................................................... 9

The top trends and challenges shaping Asian natural and organic beauty ............................. 10

Transcending religion: The appeal of Halal beauty to non-Muslim consumers .......................... 11

Trending Ingredient: Mushroom and Fungi Finds ............................................................................. 11

Euromonitor on the future of skin care and cosmetics formulation and marketing .................. 12

CONTENT 3

Climbazole: Europe is planning new restrictions

On 18 October 2018, the European Union transmitted to WTO a draft Regulation to refine the

restrictions for the use of Climbazole as a preservative and anti-dandruff agent. Annexes III and

V of Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 are expected to be amended during the 2nd quarter of

2019… [READ MORE HERE].

Euromonitor: deeper insights into fragrance for

personal care By Lucy Whitehouse

Personal care uses over 105,000 tonnes of fragrance annually, making it a key market for the

fragrance industry: here, Euromonitor explains the current state of the market.

This article reveals key insights from the market research firm, offering a deeper dive

perspective than our topline market overview, available here.

What is the state of the fragrance market for personal care?

The global market for personal care fragrances amounted to over 105,000 tonnes in 2016,

representing almost 24% of total fragrance use.

Volume sales posted a CAGR of 2.3% over 2011-2016 and this is forecast to be matched over

the period 2016-2021, taking total volume to 117,600 tonnes by 2021.

Personal care fragrances continue to outperform those used in home care applications, which

are forecast a CAGR of 1.7% over 2016- 2021 (down from 2.3% over 2011-2016).

Forecast volume growth is widely spread

When assessing forecast growth by country, it is clear that the Middle East and Africa is driving

percentage growth, with the four fastest- growing markets all located in that region…

There are still good growth prospects in Asia Pacific, e.g. Pakistan, Indonesia and Vietnam,

while Brazil is prominent as its ailing economy looks set for recovery… [READ MORE HERE]

From "borderline" products to cosmetics… How to find your way around?

The notion of “borderline product” remains very present in the field of cosmetic products

because this status implies different factors that may lead to the regulation of biocidal

products, medical devices, or even medicines. To date, given the complexity of this concept

CONTENT 4

and the multiple borders that exist between the various transversal regulations, no European

text sets out specific rules. Only guidance guides and manuals have been drafted by

European Commission working groups to provide direction to persons/companies responsible

for placing the products concerned on the market, i. e. for whom there is still doubt about their

status. The explanations of Corinne Bénoliel and Pauline Ferreira-Theret, from Institut Scientis…

[READ MORE HERE]

Geltor shows bio-tech collagen at in-cosmetics North America By Deanna Utroske

The new bio-design company is focused on developing proteins for consumer-facing industries

like cosmetics and personal care. And at this month’s in-cosmetics trade show in New York

City, the Geltor team was talking up its first ingredient, N-Collage. Here CEO Alexander

Lorestani talks with Cosmetics Design about the company, the ingredient, and the

possibilities… [WATCH VIDEO AND READ MORE HERE]

Hair dyes A160 and C183, Preservative HEPB:

three requests for Opinions to SCCS

The safety of two hair dyes - 2-Methoxy-methyl-p-phenylenediamine (A160) and

Tetrabromophenol Blue (C183) - as well as HEPB as preservative, will be re-assessed by the

SCCS.

The requests from the European Commission were published on Ocotber 25, 2018. The

Scientific Committee has until February 2019 to give its Opinions.

You can see the request HERE.

Hot Topics: Top 5 trending beauty and cosmetics

news stories on social media By Amanda Lim

In our round up of the top five stories trending online, we highlight the latest developments on

the beauty industry in Vietnam, animal-testing in China and trends in gender-neutral

fragrances.

CONTENT 5

- Singapore’s Luxasia poised for ambitious expansion in Vietnam

Luxasia, a Singapore-based luxury beauty and lifestyle omni-channel distributor, has identified

Vietnam as a strategic growth market, brimming with potential.

Vietnam is a swiftly growing economy with a strong population of nearly 100 million. According

to Luxasia’s Karen Ong, there’s business to be done there and the sky is the limit.

While she is Luxasia’s Singapore Country Manager, Ong has recently spent some time in

Vietnam to ascertain the challenges and access the company’s position in the market as the

acting Country Manager

- China’s compulsory animal-testing for cosmetics may take more than five years to stop

Although China has made significant strides in moving away from animal-testing, its challenges

suggest it may take more than five years for the country to completely stop compulsory

animal-testing for cosmetics, says one analyst.

Hedy He, regulatory analyst and editor of ChemLinked told Cosmetics Design Asia: “In the short

term a total ban on animal testing is unlikely given the lack of testing infrastructure and the

technical capacity shortcomings of the industry.”

- South Korean beauty brand Skinfood files for court receivership after months of speculation…

[READ MORE HERE] 1

in-cosmetics North America technical expert shares formulation highlights By Simon Pitman

This video is a must watch if you want to find out about some of the most exciting formulations

innovations and what was going on in the Formulation Lab Challenge.

Belinda Carli is the founder and director of the Institute of Personal Care Science, and is also

the technical expert and advisor for the in- cosmetics North America event.

This year Belinda played a big part in the show proceedings, giving a total of four presentations

as part of this year's comprehensive educational program, as well as overseeing the

Formulation Lab.

The four presentation topics touched on efficacy and stabilization issues for green formulations,

creating personalised product formulations and enhanced delivery methods for greater

efficacy - all of which touch upon the leading trends in the industry right now.

The Formulation Lab Challenge… [WATCH VIDEO AND READ MORE HERE]

CONTENT 6

Innovations and trends on display at in-

Cosmetics Asia’s new series of R&D tours By Amanda Lim

For the first time at in-Cosmetics Asia – which begins today, Tuesday October 30 – a series of 90-

minute research and development (R&D) will be taking place across all three days.

Designed for R&D professionals, in-Cosmetics Asia’s dedicated R&D tours will showcase the

latest breakthrough ingredients, technologies and take visitors through the latest trends in

beauty today.

“The Formulation Lab and R&D Tours are exclusively designed speciically for cosmetic

formulators to help them understand how new ingredients can be used in multiple ways to

great effect,” said Sara Gibson Exhibition Director of in-cosmetics Asia.

“They are also the perfect forum to meet other like-minded experts to discuss formulation

challenges and meet face-to-face key exhibitors who can demonstrate products irst-hand.”

Top Trends

Put together and Hosted by leading cosmetic chemist Rouah al-Wakeel, the tours will focus on

three key topics.

Attendees on the ‘silent tours’ will hear exclusive commentary about the latest ingredients in

each area, as well as being able to ask questions throughout the session.

The first, held on October 30, is a Biotechnology Actives tour sponsored by Mibelle Biochemistry.

On this tour, visitors will be able to discover more about next generation ingredients developed

using molecularly-identical, natural ingredients… [READ MORE HERE]

Is packaging leading the way for sustainable

beauty?

From Lush's no-packaging colour cosmetics launch to Henkel's efforts towards a circular

economy, can packaging lead the way for sustainable beauty… [WATCH VIDEO AND READ

MORE HERE]

CONTENT 7

Israel's beauty market: innovative cosmetic

products and ingredients By Liana Naim & Miriam Oron

In this series, we take a look at five major trends defining the beauty market in Israel:

personalisation, anti-ageing, beauty supplements, the environment and safety, and natural

ingredients.

Here, we introduce a market overview of the Israeli beauty scene, what’s driving innovation

and why.

The authors of this guest series are:

Liana Naim, who specializes in identifying, establishing and accompanying

collaborations between international pharmaceutical/cosmetic companies and leading Israeli

academic investigators. A professional scouter in the field of personal care working with global

companies and expert for the Israeli market.

Miriam Oron, who is a sole proprietor of a consulting business in the field of skin research,

clinical trials and cosmetic and dermocosmetic product development. She also develops

consumer and clinical Decision Support Systems that are based on skin analysis.

Israel: overview… [READ MORE HERE]

Keep Calm and Smell Linalool: Study Confirms

Anti-anxiety Link

Long believed to have calming properties, lavender, or more precisely the scent of linalool,

was the focus of a recent study that examined if it can in-fact provide relief to anxiety.

The Presence of Linalool

In a study published in the Frontiers in Behavioral Neuroscience, a team of researchers from

Kagoshima University used a light/dark box and elevated plus maze (EPM) to test on mice. In

the EPM, levels of anxiety are measured by time spent in open vs. an enclosed space, while

the light/dark box tests anxiety through a lit and unlit area. Previous research showed that mice

prefer dark and enclosed spaces, while open and lit spaces produce anxiety.

Related: Too Stressed to Sense: Modern Life and Our Sense of Taste and Smell

Linalool was administered to the mice through a custom-made odor chamber, where mice

were placed for thirty minutes before a test. The mice were then exposed to either 0, 20, 200, or

2,000 μL of linalool, in an effort to see if dosage played a role. Following the time in the odor

chamber, mice then performed either the light/dark box or EPM test, while researchers studied

behaviors and how long the mice spent in anxiety-inducing circumstances… [READ MORE

HERE]

CONTENT 8

Latest beauty formulation and science updates

from around the world By Lucy Whitehouse

In this editor’s spotlight, we reveal where the latest and most impressive innovation is being

seen within the field of formulation and science for beauty and personal care.

From biodegradable microbeads to the latest on China’s moves to end its requirement for

compulsory animal testing on cosmetics, here are the key updates you need to know in

formulation around the globe.

Vegan claims: Cosmax gains vegan certification for production plant

South Korean cosmetics firm Cosmax has earned a vegan certificate for its Hwaseong

production plant to meet the rising demand for vegan cosmetics in the market.

Cosmax CEO Lee Kyung-soo said in a statement that the company had taken this step to keep

up with the market demands for more ethical products.

“Demand for environmentally friendly items, such as vegan and halal products, has been

multiplying in the global cosmetics market,” said Lee. “We will continue to make new products

that meet the various needs of our global clients.”

Discover our full report here.

China’s compulsory animal testing may take “more than five years” to stop

One analyst has suggested that the challenges faced in removing the requirement for animal

testing on cosmetics in China may mean it takes more than five years for that change to be

implemented. Hedy He, regulatory analyst and editor of ChemLinked told Cosmetics Design

Asia in this dedicated article:

“In the short term a total ban on animal testing is unlikely given the lack of testing infrastructure

and the technical capacity shortcomings of the industry.”

Sustainable Beauty Awards: finalists announced … [READ MORE HERE]

Member States to evaluate 100 substances in

2019-2021

ECHA has published its amended proposal for chemical substances evaluation planning under

Community rolling action plan (CoRAP) for the years 2019-2021. On the

agenda: 100 substances to be evaluated,

CONTENT 9

including 31 in 2019, 4 in 2020 and 25 in 2021. 11 substances were removed from the list

established for CoRAP 2018-2020, their evaluation was finally seen as low priority or

unnecessary.

The final plan will be published in March 2019.

YOU CAN SEE THE Draft Community Rolling Action Plan (CoRAP) update for years 2019-2021

HERE.

Patent Pick: Pumpkin, Shea and More for

Elegant Occlusion and Care

Lipid blends exist to provide moisturization to the skin. These act by forming a layer on the skin's

surface to regulate water loss. However, according to GlaxoSmithKline (GSK) inventors, there

remains a need for compositions with levels of occlusivity that surpass those of existing lipid

mixtures. This was the focus of a new invention, disclosed in the described patent application.

Aims of the Invention

In addition to minimizing trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), the present invention aims to prove

a cosmetically elegant composition that is convenient and easy to apply to skin. Further,

added care, protect and health benefits were desired. The inventors identified a balanced

o/w compositions containing fatty acids and phytosterols, derived, for example, from pumpkin

seed oil, shea butter and other sources.

The Literature

Topical composition to repair, restore and protect the skin lipid barrier

U.S. Pat Application 20180303731

Publication date: Oct 25, 2018

Assignee: GlaxoSmithKline Consumer Healthcare Holdings

This invention provides a topical o/w emulsion that moisturizes and protects, repairs or restores

the skin lipid barrier. Specifically, the emulsion comprises: a) a discontinuous oil phase; b) a

continuous aqueous phase; c) a thickening agent; d) at least one lamellar membrane

structure comprising: i) a phospholipid, ii) a fatty alcohol and iii) a fatty acid; e) a pharmace-

utically acceptable active agent; and, optionally, f) a dermatologically acceptable excipient.

In one embodiment, said composition has a water vapor transmission rate in use of less than or

approx. 75 g·m−2·hr−1, measured in vitro using the modWVTR test methodology… [READ MORE

HERE]

The skin care category you may have missed By Deanna Utroske

Lip care and lip color have grown in recent years; and some might say that lip products now

comprise a stand-alone category—one that epitomizes the multifunctional formulations

blurring the boundaries of beauty today. Here Cosmetics Design takes a closer look at the lip

category.

Crossover product formulations are everywhere in beauty today. The line between skin care

and color cosmetics is often unclear as is the distinction between skin care and scalp / hair

care. And even topical beauty and ingestible products are, on occasion, now one in the same

(e.g. hair teas).

CONTENT 10

The lip category is an icon of beauty and personal care; lipstick is often the poster-

product of the beauty industry and lip balm is one of the most common daily-use personal

care products. Nonetheless, it is a category that’s as dynamic as it is consistent.

Lip Care

Recent innovations in lip care include the launch of indie brand Lilu lipcare, with a focus on

convenience. The brand’s product pearls fit inside special jewelry pieces, so the product is

always close at hand for busy consumers (who may not always have a pocket or handbag

available). And it’s worth noting that Lilu pearls, the small-format patented products that

makes the brand unique, come in both lip care and lip color varieties.

Not every update to lip care is about portability. Legacy brand’s like Chapstick are focused on

adding more benefits (anti-aging, skin care, and color payoff) to their classic stick. The brand’s

total hydration formula promises “healthier looking and more youthful looking lips,” according

to the company’s online product page. And the lip care product comes in tinted varieties as

well as formulas infused with antioxidants.

Lip Color… [READ MORE HERE]

The top trends and challenges shaping Asian

natural and organic beauty By Amanda Lim

With countless new launches and product innovations, the natural and organic beauty market

is brimming with opportunities for growth as Asian consumers continue to become more

conscious about health and wellness.

The market may only be the fraction the size of Europe and North America, but the

opportunities for natural and organic cosmetics are only beginning for Asia.

Growing Asian market

According to Ecovia Intelligence, the Asian market for natural and organic cosmetics was

valued at $652m in 2017 and it is expected to continue growing at a fast rate.

“Asian consumers are becoming more aware of synthetic chemicals in cosmetics and toiletries

and they are turning to natural and organic cosmetics which they consider safer for human

health,” explains Amarjit Sahota, President and Founder of Ecovia Intelligence.

Sahota added that many Asian consumers turn to natural and organic products as they are

seen as premium products, and brands like Australia’s Jurlique have noted that Asia is their

biggest export market.

Among the Asian countries’ China has the fastest growing market. Rising awareness of organic

and natural products, along with the growing spending power of Chinese consumers is driving

sales.

CONTENT 11

This happening despite the fact that many ethical brands have called for a boycott of selling

in China because of the controversial compulsory animal-testing laws.

Rise of Asian brands… [READ MORE HERE]

Transcending religion: The appeal of Halal

beauty to non-Muslim consumers By Amanda Lim

Halal beauty and personal care products have potential to appeal to non-Muslims, largely due

to its holistic positioning in the market.

Nicole Fall, Founder of Asian Consumer Intelligence, told Cosmetics Design Asia that the

market is “converging”.

As both Muslim and non-Muslim consumers alike continue to demand products from ethical

and sustainable companies, Halal beauty brands are presented with an opportunity to

leverage on.

“A brand that is Muslimah-friendly because it’s Halal might also have an ethical positioning or

underpin its cruelty free origins as a key marketing message,” said Fall.

“Consumers expect a holistic message from brands that transcends religion and encompasses

more areas of concern re/ecting the values of that particular consumer.”

Common ground… [READ MORE HERE]

Trending Ingredient: Mushroom and Fungi

Finds

Mushrooms are having a moment. In the self care-driven climate of today’s personal care

industry, certain ingredients have proven popular with consumers in order to tie holistic

concepts into their skin, hair and body care routines. Enter: mushrooms.

Wellness comprises a lifestyle of caring for one's beauty as well as mind, health and fitness

overall; a balanced and healthy diet is a large part of this for many consumers. As a popular

natural food and personal care ingredient, mushrooms straddle the line between the two—

providing benefits on both fronts.

They also play into protective skin care—i.e., products that provide environmental defense.

Antioxidative mushrooms can help combat oxidative stress for consumers concerned about

the effects of air pollution and other stressors.

Continue reading for exclusive insights on how to formulate with these multifunctional

ingredients, in addition to a selection of ingredients and finished products on today’s market

that put mushrooms in the starring role.

Functional Fungi

CONTENT 12

Anti-aging, hydrating, film-forming and barrier protection are just a few of the claimed benefits

of the following mushroom-derived ingredient options:

Bio-Botanica's Reishi Extract—Provides anti-aging and -inflammatory properties to skin

and body care to care for dry and damaged skin. (INCI: Ganoderma

Lucidum (Mushroom) Extract)

Crodarom’s White Truffle—A water-soluble active with hydrating and repairing properties,

derived from white truffle. (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Glycerin (and) Tuber

Aestivum Extract)

MMP Inc.’s Vegeluron Gel—Provides film-forming and moisturizing properties to protect

skin from pollution-induced oxidation. (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Propanediol

(and) Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract) … [READ MORE HERE]

Euromonitor on the future of skin care and

cosmetics formulation and marketing By Natasha Spencer

Asia dominates beauty and personal care sales when compared to its global counterparts,

with an anticipated value increase of $33 bn (€29 bn) between 2017 and 2022.

At this week’s in-cosmetics Asia, which opens on October 30 2018 in Bangkok, Thailand,

manufacturers will receive the latest updates and insights on Asia-Pacific's (APAC) burgeoning

skin care and colour cosmetics markets.

Sunny Um, Beauty and Fashion Senior Analyst at Euromonitor International will explore leading

consumer concerns, retail patterns and market trends impacting behaviour when selecting

and purchasing these products.

Skin care is the leading beauty category in Asia. The continent also reigns supreme in terms of

its international colour cosmetics sales. Between 2017 and 2022, APAC estimates a value

increase of $6 bn (€5.3 bn). The best-selling colour cosmetics products in APAC are lip care,

foundations and concealers and BB/CC creams, respectively.

In Asia, beauty consumers place the spotlight on skin care product purchases and centring

these decisions on identifying and selecting high-quality items. Consumers are also seeking

natural and ethically-friendly products.

Commenting on additional opportunities for formulators, manufacturers and marketers, Sunny

Um, Beauty and Fashion Senior Analyst at Euromonitor International reveals that brands can

“appeal to two new emerging markets – cosmetics and personal care products for men and

mature women.”

Top trends… [READ MORE HERE]