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HAIR CAREHAIR CAREHAIR CAREHAIR CARE
Original presentation by: Original presentation by:
Assoc. Prof. Dr.Pleumchitt RojanapanthuAssoc. Prof. Dr.Pleumchitt Rojanapanthu
Pharmacy Department, Pharmacy Department,
Faculty of Pharmacy Mahidol University, Faculty of Pharmacy Mahidol University,
Bangkok, ThailandBangkok, Thailand
Edited by: Ellen BerwickEdited by: Ellen Berwick
22
HairHairHairHairGetting to know hairGetting to know hair
Types of hairTypes of hair Hair structureHair structure Hair growth cycleHair growth cycle Hair Color Hair Color Physical properties of hairPhysical properties of hairChemical properties of hairChemical properties of hair
33
ShampoosShampoos ConditionersConditioners “ “2 in 1” shampoos2 in 1” shampoos Hair spraysHair sprays Hair gelsHair gels Perming solutionsPerming solutions Hair dyesHair dyes General remarks about product developmentGeneral remarks about product development
Hair Care Hair Care ProductsProducts that affect Chemistrythat affect Chemistry
Hair Care Hair Care ProductsProducts that affect Chemistrythat affect Chemistry
44
Getting to Know HairGetting to Know HairGetting to Know HairGetting to Know Hair
All land mammals including humans have hairy All land mammals including humans have hairy skins skins
Hair characteristics (like your eyes and skin) are Hair characteristics (like your eyes and skin) are inherited directly from our parents inherited directly from our parents
• hair colorhair color
• hair typehair type
55
• Human are covered all over in hair except on Human are covered all over in hair except on
the palms of handsthe palms of hands
the sole of the feetthe sole of the feet
the lipsthe lips
• Hair is most obvious on the head and face Hair is most obvious on the head and face
including the nose and ears in some people including the nose and ears in some people
the armpits / the groin the armpits / the groin
the chest and legs (in men) the chest and legs (in men)
Hair distributionHair distribution
66
• Average : 100,000-150,000 hair folliclesAverage : 100,000-150,000 hair follicles
Baby’s head : 1,100 follicles/mBaby’s head : 1,100 follicles/m22
Age 25 : ~ 600/mAge 25 : ~ 600/m22
Age 30-50 : ~ 250-300/mAge 30-50 : ~ 250-300/m22
• Each follicle grow about 20 new hairs in lifetimeEach follicle grow about 20 new hairs in lifetime
• Each new hair grows several year 1 meterEach new hair grows several year 1 meter
• Each hair falls out eventually and is replaced Each hair falls out eventually and is replaced
by a new hairby a new hair
HowHow much hair do we have much hair do we have
77
• Different people have hair that differs in Different people have hair that differs in
color, length, diameter, distributioncolor, length, diameter, distribution
• Influence factors : Racial type and AgeInfluence factors : Racial type and Age
Variation in human hairVariation in human hair
88
Three types of hair:Three types of hair:
Lanuga hair Lanuga hair • develops on an unborn baby develops on an unborn baby
• 33 months after the baby’s conceptionmonths after the baby’s conception
• fine and softfine and soft
• grows all over the body, at the same rategrows all over the body, at the same rate
• shed about 4 weeks before the baby is due to bornshed about 4 weeks before the baby is due to born
99
Vellus hairsVellus hairs• short hair, only 1 or 2 cm longshort hair, only 1 or 2 cm long• contains little or no pigmentcontains little or no pigment• follicle doesn’t have oil glandsfollicle doesn’t have oil glands
1010
• long hairs that grow on the head, body, arms long hairs that grow on the head, body, arms
and legs and legs
• produced by follicles withproduced by follicles with sebaceous glandssebaceous glands
• people inherited a tendency for baldness where the people inherited a tendency for baldness where the
hair become thinner and shorter until look hair become thinner and shorter until look
like vellus hair like vellus hair
Terminal hairsTerminal hairs
1111
dd
Vellus hairs on a woman’s chin. These are normal when female
hormones decline, hairs on the chin can grow as strongly as
terminal hairs
1212
• a tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in the fat of the scalpa tiny cup-shaped pit buried deep in the fat of the scalp
• follicle is the point from which the hair grows follicle is the point from which the hair grows
• well supplied with minute blood vessels well supplied with minute blood vessels
• temperature is not affected by cold or hot watertemperature is not affected by cold or hot water
• the rate of growth depends on thethe rate of growth depends on the
amount of natural light : growing a little faster in winter amount of natural light : growing a little faster in winter
when the days are shortwhen the days are short
Hair StructureHair Structure
Hair follicleHair follicle
1313
Hair follicle Hair bulbHair follicle Hair bulb
Hair shaft Hair shaft
Hair bulbHair bulb
- lines in - lines in side the hair follicleside the hair follicle
- is a structure of actively growing cells- is a structure of actively growing cells
- produce a long fine cylinder of hair- produce a long fine cylinder of hair
-- new cells are continuously produced in the lower new cells are continuously produced in the lower
part of the bulbpart of the bulb
1414
(a) Longitudinal section of a hair within its follicle.(a) Longitudinal section of a hair within its follicle.
(b) Enlarged longitudinal section of a hair.(b) Enlarged longitudinal section of a hair.
1515
(c) Enlarged longitudinal view of the expanded hair bulb of (c) Enlarged longitudinal view of the expanded hair bulb of
the follicle which encloses the matrix, actively dividing epithelial the follicle which encloses the matrix, actively dividing epithelial
cells that produce the hair. cells that produce the hair.
1717
(e) Photomicrograph of scalp tissue showing numerous(e) Photomicrograph of scalp tissue showing numerous
hair follicles (24 hair follicles (24 XX).).
1818
Scanning electron micrograph showing a hair shaft emerging f rom a follicle at the epidermal surface. Not ice h ow th e s ca l
e like ce lls of th e cu t ic le ove rla p on e a n oth e r (1 5 0 0 x).
1919
• can be seen above the scalpcan be seen above the scalp
• consist mainly of dead cells consist mainly of dead cells
Keratin + binding material + small amount of water Keratin + binding material + small amount of water
• terminal hairs are lubricated by natural oil (sebum) terminal hairs are lubricated by natural oil (sebum)
produced by sebaceous glands produced by sebaceous glands
• high level of hormones (androgens) high level of hormones (androgens) high level of high level of
sebumsebum
The Hair ShaftThe Hair Shaft
2020
• scales growing over the youngest partscales growing over the youngest part
(closet to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken (closet to the scalp) are smooth and unbroken
further along the hair have been damaged by further along the hair have been damaged by
cosmetic treatments and by mistreatment : (over-cosmetic treatments and by mistreatment : (over-
energetic brushing)energetic brushing)
Nature of cuticleNature of cuticle
2121
Nature of cuticle (con.)Nature of cuticle (con.)• little by little, they may break away :little by little, they may break away :
““weatheringweathering””
• healthy cuticle is more than just a protective layerhealthy cuticle is more than just a protective layer
• intact cuticle cells are smooth, glossy, and reflect light intact cuticle cells are smooth, glossy, and reflect light
from their surface (black hair reflects less light than from their surface (black hair reflects less light than
blond hair)blond hair)
2424
- Another normal hair but this came - Another normal hair but this came
from one of our nearest relatives from one of our nearest relatives
an oran or angutan! angutan!
A perfect hair seen under the A perfect hair seen under the
electron microscopeelectron microscope
2525
• keratin chains link by : disulphide bond and keratin chains link by : disulphide bond and hydrogen bondshydrogen bonds
• disulphide bonds can be changed by chemical disulphide bonds can be changed by chemical methods : perming and relaxing methods : perming and relaxing permanentpermanent
• hydrogen bonds can be easily broken apart hydrogen bonds can be easily broken apart whenever the hair is wetted and form again as whenever the hair is wetted and form again as it driesit dries
• when they break the shape of hair changeswhen they break the shape of hair changes• wet hair is wound on the roller, the dried hair wet hair is wound on the roller, the dried hair
keeps the roller shape keeps the roller shape temporarytemporary
Hair shapeHair shape
2626
• European around 70-90 micronEuropean around 70-90 micron
• Asian around 120 micronAsian around 120 micron
• People have average hair aroundPeople have average hair around
100,000 – 150,000 hairs100,000 – 150,000 hairs
Hair dimensionsHair dimensions
2727
• individual hair form inside a hair bulb deep in individual hair form inside a hair bulb deep in hair hair
• follicle is tiny but powerful factoryfollicle is tiny but powerful factory• each hair grows during many yearseach hair grows during many years• shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry, shampooed, conditioned, cut, blown dry,
exposal to the sun and wind, colored, bleached, exposal to the sun and wind, colored, bleached, permed none of these affected the permed none of these affected the hair hair growth growth
• the hair spontaneously falls outthe hair spontaneously falls out• the follicle rests for a little while and starts to the follicle rests for a little while and starts to
produce a new hairproduce a new hair
Hair growth cycleHair growth cycle
2828
• anagen : the growing phase (anagen : the growing phase (~~1000 days)1000 days)
• catagen : the intermediate phase (catagen : the intermediate phase (~~10 days)10 days)
• telogen : the shedding phase (telogen : the shedding phase (~~100 days)100 days)
Stage of the hair cycleStage of the hair cycle
2929
• last between 3-7 years without interruptionlast between 3-7 years without interruption• roughly 1 cm/month > 1 meterroughly 1 cm/month > 1 meter• faster rate in winter than summerfaster rate in winter than summer• melanin is made in hair bulb throughout this melanin is made in hair bulb throughout this
phase phase • less pigment is made in older people, hair cycle less pigment is made in older people, hair cycle
becomes shorterbecomes shorter• follicles gradually give up producing long, follicles gradually give up producing long,
strong hair :strong hair :• hairs become thinner and shorter hairs become thinner and shorter
thinning of the hair degree of baldnessthinning of the hair degree of baldness
Anagen (the growing phase)Anagen (the growing phase)
3030
• short resting phase : 2-4 weeksshort resting phase : 2-4 weeks
• no pigment is madeno pigment is made
• follicles stop producing hairfollicles stop producing hair
• the base of follicle moves upwards towards the the base of follicle moves upwards towards the
surface of the skin surface of the skin
Catagen (the intermediate phase)Catagen (the intermediate phase)
3131
• lastlast forfor - 34 - 34 monthsmonths• new hair begin to grow from the hair folliclenew hair begin to grow from the hair follicle• as it grow s upwards the old hair will be shed as it grow s upwards the old hair will be shed
naturally or easily be pulled outnaturally or easily be pulled out• at anytime around one in ten of the follicles at anytime around one in ten of the follicles
at individual’s head is in the shedding phase at individual’s head is in the shedding phase • shedding is part of normal process of the shedding is part of normal process of the
replacement of old hair with new hairreplacement of old hair with new hair• new hair emerges from the same opening as new hair emerges from the same opening as
the old onethe old one
Telogen (the shedding phase)Telogen (the shedding phase)
3434
A method of measuring the rate of hair growth: both cut A method of measuring the rate of hair growth: both cut
hairs and newly emerging hairs can be seenhairs and newly emerging hairs can be seen
3535
Electronmicrograph showing new hairs emerging from Electronmicrograph showing new hairs emerging from
the hair follicles of the scalp the hair follicles of the scalp
3636
• general health and general health and nutritional factorsnutritional factors
• starvationstarvation or crash diet loosing hair in 6-10 or crash diet loosing hair in 6-10
weeksweeks
• alcoholicalcoholic people have poor hair people have poor hair
• some some mineralsminerals may particularly important for hair may particularly important for hair
growthgrowth
What controls hair growthWhat controls hair growth ? ?
3737
• lack of Znlack of Zn : produces only fine, sparse hairs : produces only fine, sparse hairs
even lost their hairseven lost their hairs
• Vit BVit B : known as panthenol, plays a: known as panthenol, plays a
part in hair growth, improvespart in hair growth, improves
physical propertiesphysical properties
(elasticity, strength and gloss)(elasticity, strength and gloss)
of the hair shaftof the hair shaft
Hair growth (con.)Hair growth (con.)
3838
• thyroid hormone speeds up growth in thyroid hormone speeds up growth in
resting hair folliclesresting hair follicles
• steroids taken by mouth slow down the growthsteroids taken by mouth slow down the growth
Hormones :Hormones :
3939
• Androgen : the most important factor regulating Androgen : the most important factor regulating
hair growth, thickness of hair shaft hair growth, thickness of hair shaft
: changes vellus - like hair : changes vellus - like hair
terminal hairterminal hair
• oestrogen : slow down hair growth duringoestrogen : slow down hair growth during
growth period, make the period longer growth period, make the period longer
Hormones (con.)Hormones (con.)
4040
This boy has a zinc deficiency, and his hair is very thin and sparse;
after treatment his hair is growing more strongly
4141
PigmentationPigmentation• Melanin : - produced by melanocytes at growing Melanin : - produced by melanocytes at growing phase (anagen)phase (anagen)
- spread out throughout the cortex, the - spread out throughout the cortex, the more near outer edge more near outer edge
- does not protect the harmful effect - does not protect the harmful effect fromfrom
sunlightsunlight - is found in 2 forms- is found in 2 forms• Eumelanin : dark pigmented which Eumelanin : dark pigmented which
predominates in black and predominates in black and
brunette hair/oval shape brunette hair/oval shape
• Phaeomelain : lighter pigment, found in red Phaeomelain : lighter pigment, found in red
and blond hair/smaller, partly and blond hair/smaller, partly
oval and partly rod- shapeoval and partly rod- shape
Hair ColorHair Color
4444
• the arrangement of keratin bundlesthe arrangement of keratin bundles
the way the large bundles of keratin are the way the large bundles of keratin are
arranged within each hair shaftarranged within each hair shaft
• the position of hair bulb :the position of hair bulb :
African hair bulb may lie to the side of the African hair bulb may lie to the side of the
follicle, so the hair shaft grows out of the follicle at an acute anglefollicle, so the hair shaft grows out of the follicle at an acute angle
Factors affecting hair structure :Factors affecting hair structure :
4545
• irregular growth in the hair bulb :irregular growth in the hair bulb : if it varies if it varies
slightly to one side or the other, hair may grow wavyslightly to one side or the other, hair may grow wavy
• the shape of the follicle :the shape of the follicle : whether it is straight whether it is straight or or
curvedcurved
• the number of twists per unit length :the number of twists per unit length :
African hair has 12 times as many twist per cm.African hair has 12 times as many twist per cm.
as Caucasian hairas Caucasian hair
Factors affecting hair structure (con.) Factors affecting hair structure (con.)
4646
• StrengthStrength
• Elasticity Elasticity
• Static electricityStatic electricity
• Moisture contentMoisture content
• PorosityPorosity
• TextureTexture
Physical properties of hairPhysical properties of hair
4747
• a single hair can support a load of about 100 gma single hair can support a load of about 100 gm
• keratin protein of the cortex responsible for the keratin protein of the cortex responsible for the
hair strength hair strength
• keratin is a protein chains contain high keratin is a protein chains contain high
concentration of an amino acid called “concentration of an amino acid called “cystinecystine””
• matrix contains high level of cystinematrix contains high level of cystine
Hair strengthHair strength
4848
• each cystine unit contains 2 cysteine amino acids in each cystine unit contains 2 cysteine amino acids in
different chain different chain
• the chains are linked by two sulphur atoms, the chains are linked by two sulphur atoms,
forming a very strong chemical bond forming a very strong chemical bond
““disulphide linkagedisulphide linkage””
• many disulphide bonds form down the length many disulphide bonds form down the length
of the keratin chainsof the keratin chains
Hair strength (con.)Hair strength (con.)
5050
• one of the most important propertiesone of the most important properties
• can resist forces that could change itscan resist forces that could change its
shape, volume and lengthshape, volume and length
• lest spring back to its original lest spring back to its original
form without damageform without damage
• wet hair can increase the length up to 30% wet hair can increase the length up to 30%
and return to original length when it is driedand return to original length when it is dried
ElasticityElasticity
5151
• elasticity of hair depends on the longelasticity of hair depends on the long
keratin fibers in the cortexkeratin fibers in the cortex
• chemical treatment can alter the cortex chemical treatment can alter the cortex
and change the hair elasticityand change the hair elasticity
Elasticity (con.)Elasticity (con.)
5252
• poor elasticity :poor elasticity :
- stretch only to a limited extent- stretch only to a limited extent
- will break easily- will break easily
- cannot be permed satisfactorily - cannot be permed satisfactorily
• natural sunlight and artificial UV light natural sunlight and artificial UV light
damage chemicals of hair and its elasticitydamage chemicals of hair and its elasticity
Elasticity (con.)Elasticity (con.)
5353
Static electricityStatic electricity
• rubbing drug hair / brushing / combingrubbing drug hair / brushing / combing
builds up static electric charge builds up static electric charge
• thethe charges tend to push each other apartcharges tend to push each other apart
• charged hair never lie smooth against charged hair never lie smooth against
each other each other “ fly away ” hair“ fly away ” hair
• stands out from the head stands out from the head
5555
Moisture content :Moisture content :
Heat and humidityHeat and humidity• more moisturemore moisture
• less static electricity less static electricity
• collapsecollapse
Heat and drynessHeat and dryness• less moistureless moisture• more static electricitymore static electricity• more volumemore volume
5656
- wet hair swell cortex / lift cuticle scales- wet hair swell cortex / lift cuticle scales
- hair surface temporally loses its smoothness- hair surface temporally loses its smoothness
- wet hair - wet hair more friction matting more friction matting
and tangles (over vigorous shampoo)and tangles (over vigorous shampoo)
Moisture content (con.)Moisture content (con.)
5757
• cuticle covering cortex is intact : cuticle covering cortex is intact : almostalmost
water proof (very little water can go inwater proof (very little water can go in
and out)and out)
• shampoos do not damage the cuticle shampoos do not damage the cuticle
• treating the hair (permed or tinted)treating the hair (permed or tinted)
PorosityPorosityNormal hairNormal hair
5858
• temperature / applying an alkaline lotiontemperature / applying an alkaline lotion
separate the scaleseparate the scale
• allowing chemicals to go insideallowing chemicals to go inside
• after processing after processing scales close upscales close up
Porosity (con.)Porosity (con.)
5959
• processing many times / too much blow processing many times / too much blow
drying/ too high temperative / effect drying/ too high temperative / effect
of sun and wind of sun and wind
the scales lose the tightness the scales lose the tightness
the porous the porous
damage cuticle is fragiledamage cuticle is fragile
develop split end develop split end
Porosity (con.)Porosity (con.)
6060
the damage is worse as the time goes the damage is worse as the time goes
byby
the greater the damage, the more the the greater the damage, the more the
cortex swells with water cortex swells with water
the more water loses when it driesthe more water loses when it dries
repeated wetting and drying of therepeated wetting and drying of the
cortex, gradually weakens the hair cortex, gradually weakens the hair
Porosity (con.)Porosity (con.)
6161
• the larger the hair diameter the the larger the hair diameter the
coarser it will feel coarser it will feel
• different people’s hair naturally feel different people’s hair naturally feel
different soft / hard / silky / wirydifferent soft / hard / silky / wiry
• effected by degree of weathering of haireffected by degree of weathering of hair
TextureTexture
6262
Texture is affected by what has been put on it :Texture is affected by what has been put on it :
- spray : makes different feeling- spray : makes different feeling
- conditioner : feel soft and smooth- conditioner : feel soft and smooth
- - conditioner with silicone : protect theconditioner with silicone : protect the
hair cuticle hair cuticle
- damage to cuticle : alter the hair texture- damage to cuticle : alter the hair texture
Texture (con.)Texture (con.)
6363
Chemistry of HairChemistry of Hair
• Keratinization process in the follicle keratin + water soluble
substances : pentose, phenols, uric acid, glycogen, glutamic acid,
valine, leucine
6464
Chemistry of Hair (con.)Chemistry of Hair (con.)
• Keratin is composed of amino acidKeratin is composed of amino acid
• 18 out of 25 normal amino acids18 out of 25 normal amino acids are found in keratinare found in keratin
6565
• Organization of hair protein sets up by bonding in 3 ways :
Chemistry of Hair (con.)Chemistry of Hair (con.)
between parallel peptide chains
I Formation of H-bondsFormation of H-bonds
6666
between acidic and basic side chain
Chemistry of Hair (con.)Chemistry of Hair (con.)
II Format II Formatii on of salt linkage on of salt linkage
6767
Chemistry of Hair (con.)Chemistry of Hair (con.)
• amino acid contains two amino and two carlygl groups link together by a disulphide bond
III Format III Formationion of disulphide linkages of disulphide linkages