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Taylored Trips – Vintage Birthday TripIn February 2017 we packed the Kombi and set sail to the Keurbooms River Valley where we were invited to attend the 60th
birthday of Cousin Mark.Cousin Mark has a home away from home
on a farm called K’Buku in the Keurbooms River Valley which forms part of the Langkloof, a very fertile farming valley that produces ton upon ton of fresh produce annually.
K'Buku is the black dot in the red route
Ok, I called it the Keurbooms River Valley because the Keurbooms River runs down the valley but research has proven me wrong again. It is in fact
the Klein Langkloof. I quote from Graham Ross’ book Cape Mountain Passes, “this route continued to follow the Keurbooms River when it ran in a westerly direction up the Klein Langkloof north of the Outeniqua Mountains”. This description is from De Vlugt.En route to the birthday bash we joined up with friends
who were also on their way to the party, at the Ebb & Flow campsite, just outside the Wilderness, on the Thursday afternoon.
Ebb & Flow campsite, Wilderness
Here we celebrated an
age-old tradition called a braai and very bravely discussed doing the 3kms hike up the valley to a waterfall the next morning. Something I had wanted to do for quite some time.The next morning, as discussed Edgar, Jenny and I set off on the hike. It was a beautiful day and perfect for a walk in
the park. The campsite and hike falls within the Wilderness National Park, run by SANParks.A very pleasant walk along a well-defined path, with boardwalks where necessary and a pont for crossing the river, got us to the waterfall. Being February and the middle of summer, a swim was the
order of the day.
Convenient boardwalks
State-of-the-art pont
Beautiful cascading waterfall
On the return trip we chose the more strenuous route which crosses the river via stepping stones and you need to clamber over hills and dales but it
was a good alternative because we got to see both routes.
Stepping stones
When we got back from the walk, we packed up and went our separate ways. Edgar and Jenny
were going to spend two nights at K’Buku and Verine and I were going to spend another night on the road.We went up the hill at the Wilderness village to see the “Map of Africa” and to watch the paragliders take off. There wasn’t any wind so they couldn’t get enough up-draught to get
airborne so they were just hanging around testing the wind until one guy got enough lift and he was off.
Kaaimans River "Map of Africa" sign
Kaaimans River "Map of Africa"
Feeling the wind
Up, up and away. What a view!
From up here we went down to that very same beach in the picture above and took a photo looking back up.
From the beach looking back up the hill
After a stroll along the endless Wilderness beach where we laughed at two guys burning their feet on the scorching hot sand, to some guy taking pictures of a party crowd,
to some other guys catching fish and then burning our own feet on the same sand, we popped in at the village mall and got some supplies for our evening braai. We didn’t know where that would be yet, but we were pretty sure that we would be braaiing!We drove east down the N2 looking
for prospective overnight spots and turned down at the Swartvlei sign. Although we went past a campsite on the way down to the beach we opted not to pull in there but to move on after soaking up the stunning views of Gericke Point and yet another endless beach.
Gericke Point on Swartvlei beach
The view to the left went on even further and in the distance I saw wind kites but none of my photos showed anyone attached to them.
Swartvlei beach
Riderless sails
Sedgefield manage
d to pull us into its web and we stopped to pick up a few more essentials. Just as you leave Sedgefield, heading east, the waters of the Groenvlei become visible and on the shores of the Groenvlei lake we found a pleasant resort called Lake Pleasant. We pulled in and Stuart made us feel at home immediately.
Him and his mom own the place and have done so for what must be quite a number of years because the previous owner, who used to swim to the end of Groenvlei lake and back every morning before breakfast, was the first man to swim to Robben Eiland back in 1910! I can still clearly remember my Uncle Brian talking about
staying over at Lake Pleasant when they used to come to the Cape for their annual holidays when they stayed in Port Elizabeth. That was when Cousin Mark and I were in primary school and now I was going to his 60th
birthday! Anyway, enough of the historic jargon, needless to say we had a lovely time, a super braai
and a very pleasant stay. Here’s a photo to prove it.
Lake (very) Pleasant
We took a walk around the place. It is enormous. There is a day picnic area, a boat launch/slipway area (no power
boats allowed), squash courts, tennis courts, a swimming pool, a restaurant and shop, wooden chalets and double story brick chalets. A short drive down a gravel road gets you to another beautiful endless beach much like the previous one at Swartvlei.There is an annual event just outside Sedgefi
eld and although we knew we could not attend it because of Cousin Mark’s birthday, we still wanted to go and look at the venue. The event is a dirt bike trick jump event called DarkFEST on a farm in Barrington just north of Sedgefield called The Garden Route Trail Park. This park is a massive MTB
mecca with trails all over the farm but once a year Sam Reynolds and the rest of the international daredevils bring their bicycles out here for huge monster jumps. (excuse the pun)We met up with Schalk, Smitty and Cornel who were there for the event. You see I have a vested interest in this sport because part of my farm
has been converted into a jump track of note. Schalk started it off a few years ago and he was later joined by Cornel and Smitty in the building and maintenance of the circuit. To give you an example, my farm looks like this,
Treylor Park, Wellington
And the international arena looks like this.
DarkFEST, Barrington
I had a video clip posted here of
my guys in action at home so that you can see what I’m talking about but it’s 9mb and I couldn’t zip/compress it so it makes this story too big to post. If anyone wants to see it I will gladly mail it to you, just give me a shout. Alternatively, there is a super professional video of the guys in action at home on my
Taylored Trips Facebook page so you can ask your kids or grand-kids to find it for you and sit back and enjoy a super video of Schalk, Smitty and Cornel at Treylor Park, Wellington. It will blow your mind, I promise you.Travelling north from the N2 up to Barrington to see the jumps put us in a perfect
location to revisit some back roads that we haven’t travelled on for quite some time, namely the eastern end of The Seven Passes road.
Seven Passes Road
Homtini Pass
Travelling through
this beautiful landscape quickly reminded me why I love this part of our country so much. It’s not called the Garden Route for nothing!
We wanted to go and see
Millwood Creek and the old gold mine again but time was few and distance was many so we pressed on until we got to this inviting farm kitchen in Rheenendal.
The menu in the picture below tells the story of “Tottie” van Reenen. A story which is probably not read too often but it is very interesting and well worth the read so I have written it out below for you to read.
Florence
Eleanor
van Reen
enFlorence Eleanor
van Reenen
(nee Cross)
was born in
Dunedin, New
Zealand in 1878. She arrived in
South
Africa as a ‘Florence Nightingale’ nurse
during the Anglo-
Boer War. Affectiona
tely named
‘Tottie’ by the Van Reenen
family as she used
to call her grandchildren ‘Little Tots’. In 1922 she started
the original general dealer
store and butcher shop in
Rheenendal, which serviced
the needs of the
staff from her
husband’s sawmill
and woodcutters from
the Millwood district. It
was
Tottie’s idea to
call their farm
‘Rheenendal’
instead of the
suggested ‘Fescue
Meadows’ – so to have some
connection with the
family name and also with the place Rheenen
in Holland,
which had family
connections with
her husband’s forebears. 2012 was
the centenary
of the arrival of the Van Reenen family in
the Barringto
n and Rheenendal district.
Totties
Farm Kitchen
remains in the family
and is now run by her great-
grandson and his wife.
So, whatever you do when you are in the area, be sure not to miss this charming spot. It is delightful.Outside on the corner stands a very intriguin
g old wagon/lorry which caught my eye. It has a steel frame with leaf springs which is kind of from the fairly modern era but it has wooden wheels with solid rubber tyres and it was chain driven! Both back wheels have massive sprockets on them. There’s no diff so it must have pulled on both back
wheels. Whatever engine it had in there must have been started by a “slinger” by the look of that hole in the cross-member in the front. Must have been a big boy to crank that thing. I’ve been to the odd museum but I’ve never seen anything like this. Take a look.
The road from Rheenendal goes directly down to the N2 but hey, we seldom take the direct route especially when there’s a pass on the alternate route. The
Phantom Pass turns off to the left and takes you down a steep valley to the shores of the Knysna Lagoon and squirts you out at the N2 bridge where the Lightley’s river boats used to be. I see they call it the Passes Road but I know it as the Seven Passes Road and I’m sticking to it. There are seven rivers that the
road crosses so maybe that’s where I got the seven from. The Phantom Pass (named after the Phantom Moth in the area) doesn’t cross the Knysna River but it is in fact the eighth pass along this 75kms stretch from George to Knysna. This road took Thomas Bain and his brother-in-law Adam
de Smidt sixteen years to build, although De Smidt did most of it because Bain was sent to build the Tradouw Pass and then on to Hermon to plot the railway line through the Nuwekloof to Tulbagh. The records do state though that Bain travelled extensively to keep in touch with his various
responsibilities. One other point worth mentioning is that Bain and De Smidt disagreed about the route of a certain section of the road and their argument was so serious that they never spoke to each other again.
The old Lightley's mooring with the N2 bridge in the background
We zipped right through Knysna without stopping once
and turned left at the top of the hill on the R339 bound for De Vlugt. Along this road we stopped opposite the Diepwalle turn-off where Verine made us some gourmet sarmies and we went to go see the King Edward big tree.
King Edward Vll tree
How did this tree become the King Edward Vll tree?
Legendary forester John Phillips had been stationed at Diepwalle in the 1920’s. When the British Parliamentary Association visited Diepwalle in 1924, he was given the task of entertaining them and he chose this site for the official picnic.During the proceedings, the tree was named in honour
of Edward Vll, who became ‘King of the United Kingdom, Emperor of India and King of the British Dominions’ on the death of his mother, Queen Victoria in 1901.Here’s an extract from a letter that Prof. Phillips wrote to his nephew in 1981.“On the occasion of the visit to SA (and to the Deepwalls forest) of the British
Parliamentary Association, we arranged for Granny to give about 200 people lunch (chops, beef etc. on coals, cost nothing in those days); the Dept. of Forestry provided the liquor; my staff made coffee, tea etc. I chose the site because it was really accessible on an old (then still used) elephant trail; we made rustic seats out of tree stumps and I worked out a tale,
which my father, a gifted man with a piece of chalk, put on a big slab of wood, all about the tree. I gave a short ‘waffle’ about the old tree. Many later wrote to me from abroad to say how unique the setting and the tale were. General Smuts also wrote to thank me. About 11 elephants were in the vicinity that day and I arranged with my men to ensure that they
did not intrude on the party! There are now said to be only three.”
After the sarmies and the walk-about it was just a hop and a skip and we were at De Vlugt where we turned left and then it was just up the road to No.1 Lower-K’Buku.
De Vlugt
No.1 Lower-K'Buku
And then the party started!
Cousin Mark's 60th Birthday Bash
The next morning we all departe
d for home at various stages of our awakening and on our way home we pulled in to Smitswinkel Farm Village in Oudtshoorn for a look around. This place is still relatively new, having started up out of town before moving into Oudtshoorn itself and already it has become an iconic landmark.
Smitswinkel
Smitswinkel
Smitswinkel
I saw the other day that Smitswinkel has opened another branch just outside George in the old train coach that has been there for years at the traffic circle by the George
Country Resort and the two fuel stations. Can’t wait to pop in there when we go to George Country Resort again.
Smitswinkel outside George
Anyway, back to Oudtshoorn and here are a few more interesting landmarks which
remind us of the legacy of the ostrich feather boom of yesteryear.
CP Nel Museum
St Jude Anglican Church
Gorgeous sandstone home
Historic suspension bridge right in the centre of town
The only other point worth mentioning of the trip home is the devastation of veld-fires all the way from the Langkloof right up to the Du Toit’s Kloof Mountains above Paarl.
And so it came that we celebrated the 60th
birthday of Cousin Mark at his home away from home at the lovely Klein Langkloof farm of K’Buku.Until next time,
“Keep on Tripping!”