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From: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-9709-1.html 21 July 2011 Page 1 of 10 Chevy Collection Knitting Pattern Number 1295 Counterpane-type Shawl and Cot Blanket This photo is of the COT BLANKET-sized triangles. See the SHAWL-sized ones on page 8. Shawl: approximately 49½” square – excluding edging Cot Blanket: approximately 27½” x 41½” – excluding edging Supersoft Cuddles DK 100g balls Shawl: approximately 9 balls Cot blanket: approximately 5 balls Shawl: One pair of knitting needles size 4.5mm (7) Cot Blanket: One pair each of knitting needles size 4mm (8) and 4.5mm (7)

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From: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-9709-1.html 21 July 2011 Page 1 of 8

Chevy Collection Knitting Pattern Number 1295Counterpane-type Shawl and Cot Blanket

This photo is of the COT BLANKET-sized triangles. See the SHAWL-sized ones on page 8.

Shawl: approximately 49½” square – excluding edgingCot Blanket: approximately 27½” x 41½” – excluding edging

Supersoft Cuddles DK 100g ballsShawl: approximately 9 ballsCot blanket: approximately 5 ballsShawl: One pair of knitting needles size 4.5mm (7)Cot Blanket: One pair each of knitting needles size 4mm (8) and 4.5mm (7)

Tension/Gauge: This pattern is based on a standard tension of 22 sts and 30 rows to 10 cm (4”), measured over stocking stitch (stockinette) on 4mm needles.

N.B. When working triangles, each row starts with a yarn forward and back over needle before first stitch is worked to give a picot (looped) edge.

SHAWL

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Triangles (make 16)Using 4.5mm needles and leaving a length of yarn 50 cm long for joining up, cast on one stitch and work (k1, p1, k1) all into this stitch.**1st row: Yf, k1, (k1, p1, k1) all into next st, k1. (6 sts.)2nd row: Yf, k1, p3, k2.3rd row: Yf, k3, yf, k1, yf, k3, (10 sts.)4th row: Yf, k2, p5, k3.5th row: Yf, k5, yf, k1, yf, k5. (14 sts.)6th row: Yf, k3, p7, k4.7th row: Yf, k7, yf, k1, yf, k7. (18 sts.)8th row: Yf, k4, p9, k5.9th row: Yf, k9, yf, k1, yf, k9. (22 sts.)10th row: Yf, k5, p11, k6.11th row: Yf, k11, yf, k1, yf, k11. (26 sts.)12th row: Yf, k6, p13, k7.13th row: Yf, k13, yf, k1, yf, k13. (30 sts.)14th row: Yf, k7, p15, k8.15th row: Yf, k15, yf, k1, yf, k15. (34 sts.)16th row: Yf, k8, p17, k9.17th row: Yf, k9, ssk, k13, k2tog, k9. (34 sts.)18th row: Yf, k9, p 15, k10.19th row: Yf, k10, ssk, k11, k2tog, k10. (34 sts.)20th row: Yf, k10, p13, k11.21st row: Yf, k11, ssk, k9, k2tog, k11. (34 sts.)22nd row: Yf, k11, p11, k12.23rd row: Yf, k12, ssk, k7, k2tog, k12. (34 sts.)24th row: Yf, k12, p9, k13.25th row: Yf, k13, ssk, k5, k2tog, k13. (34 sts.)26th row: Yf, k13, p7, k14.27th row: Yf, k14, ssk, k3, k2tog, k14. (34 sts.)28th row: Yf, k14, p5, k15.29th row: Yf, k15, ssk, k1, k2tog, k15. (34 sts.)30th row: Yf, k15, p3, k16.31st row: Yf, k16, sl1, k2tog, psso, k16. (34 sts.)32nd row: Yf, k16, p1, k17.33rd, 34th, and 35th rows: Yf, k to end. (36 sts.) Three rows all knit – creates one garter ridge on front.36th and 38th rows: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.37th row: Yf, k2, *yf, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (40 sts) 39th through 43rd rows: Yf, k to end. (46 sts.) Five rows all knit – creates two garter ridges on front.44th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.Work Diamond pattern band as follows:

Abbreviations:K knitP purlSt(s) stitch(es)Beg beginningCont continueSt st stocking stitchSl slipFoll followingAlt alternateRep repeatRem remain(ing)Tog togetherPatt patternYf yarn forward (a yarn-over for Yanks)Psso pass slipped stitch(es) overSsk slip one knitwise, slip another one knitwise, knit those two stitches together: left-leaning decrease made

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45th and 69th rows: Yf, k2, *yf, sl1, k2tog, psso, yf, k5, rep from * to last 5 sts, yf, sl1, k2tog, psso, yf, k2. (48/72 sts.)46th and 70th rows: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

47th and 71st rows: Yf, k1, k2tog, *yf, k3, yf, ssk, k1, k2tog, rep from * to last 6 sts, yf, k3, yf, ssk, k1. (50/74 sts.)48th and 72nd rows: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

49th and 73rd rows: Yf, k1, k2tog, *yf, k5, yf, sl1, k2tog, psso, rep from * to last 8 sts, yf, k5, yf, ssk, k1. (52/75 sts.)50th and 74th rows: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

51st and 75th rows: Yf, k4, *yf, ssk, k1, k2tog, yf, k3, rep from * to last st, k1. (54/78 sts.)

52nd and 76th rows: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

53rd and 77th rows: Yf, k6, *yf, sl1, k2tog, psso, yf, k5, rep from * to last st, k1. (56/80 sts.)

54th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.**

55th, 56th, 57th, 58th, and 59th rows: Yf, k to end. (62 sts.) 5 rows all knit – creates 2 garter ridges on front.

60th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

61st row: Yf, k2, *yf, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (64 sts.)

62nd row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

63rd, 64th, 65th, 66th, and 67th rows: Yf, k to end. (70 sts.) 5 rows all knit – creates 2 garter ridges on front.

68th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

Rep rows 45 to 54 inclusive. (81 sts.)

79th, 80th, 81th, 82nd, and 83rd rows and 87th, 88th, 89th, 90th, and 91st rows: Yf, k to end. (86/94 sts.)

5 rows all knit – creates 2 garter ridges on front.

84th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

85th row: Yf, k2, *yf, k2tog, rep from * to last st, k1. (88/96 sts.)

86th row: Yf, k1, p to last st, k1.

Rep last 8 rows once more. (97 sts.) Four rows all knit – creates 2 garter ridges on front.

95th through 98th rows: Yf, k to end. (101 sts.)

Beginning with Yf as usual, cast off loosely knitwise and fasten off, leaving a 50 cm length of yarn for

joining up.

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From: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-9709-1.html 21 July 2011 Page 4 of 8

SHAWL Border: Using 4.5mm needles, cast on 14 sts.***1st and every alt row: (wrong side) K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.2nd row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k3, yf, k4, yf, k2tog, yf, k2. (16 sts.)4th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (14 sts.)6th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k3 ssk, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (13 sts.)8th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k2, ssk, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (12 sts.)10th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1,(yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (11 sts.)12th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, ssk, k1, yf, k1, yf, k2tog, yf, k2. (12 sts.) 14th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2tog, yf, k2. (14 sts.)These 14 rows form border pattern. Continue in patt for a further 28 rows, marking beginning of last row with a coloured thread (corner section).Work 23 pattern repeats, marking beginning of last row with a coloured thread. ***Repeat from *** to *** 3 times more. Cast off.

Photo from original pattern booklet above

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Cot (crib) BlanketTriangles (make 24)Using 4mm needles and leaving a length of yarn 50 cm long for joining up, cast on one stitch and work (k1, p1, k1) all into this st.Follow instructions for Shawl Triangles from ** to **.Rep 33rd row 4 times.Cast off loosely knitwise and fasten off, leaving a 50 cm length of yarn for joining up.

Cot Blanket Border: Using 4.5mm needles, cast on 14 sts.***1st and every alt row: (wrong side) K2, p to last 2 sts, k2.2nd row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k3, yf, k4, yf, k2tog, yf, k2. (16 sts.)4th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k4, sl1, k2tog, psso, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (14 sts.)6th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k3, ssk, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (13 sts.)8th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k3, ssk, k1, (yf, k2tog) twice, k1. (12 sts.)10th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k1, ssk, k1, (yf, k1tog) twice, k1. (11 sts.)12th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, ssk, k1, yf, k1, yf, k2tog, f, k2. (12 sts.)14th row: Sl1, yf, k2tog, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2tog, yf, k2. (14 sts.)These 14 rows form border pattern.Continue in pattern for a further 28 rows, marking beginning of last row with a coloured thread (corner section).Work 20 pattern repeats, marking beginning of last row with a coloured thread (this section fits along side of Blanket).Work 3 pattern repeats, marking beginning of last row with a coloured thread (this section fits along shorter edge of Blanket). ***Rep from *** to *** once more. Cast off.

Make upBoth versions: Linking picot edges together either by sewing or with a crochet hook and taking care to match pattern, join triangles into 4 squares for Shawl or 6 squares for Cot Blanket.

Shawl: Join these squares into one large square. Sew marked edges of border to Shawl, gathering shorter sections between markers for corners, then sew border seam neatly.

Cot Blanket: Join these squares to form an oblong two squares wide by three squares long. Sew marked edges of border to shawl, gathering shortest sections between markers for corners, then sew border seam neatly.

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Pictured blanket/shawl has 48 triangles! That’s twice the pattern for the Cot Blanket!

Substitute border for the Shawl and Cot Blanket (border as shown above)

(This border comes from the Lacy Leaf afghan on: http://www.patonsyarns.com/pattern.php?PID=4467 )

Leaf Border: Cast on 8 sts. Do not join.Working back and forth across needle, proceed as follows:1st row: (RS). K5. yo. K1. yo. K2. 10 sts.2nd row: P6. Inc 1 st in next st. K3. 11 sts.3rd row: K4. P1. K2. yo. K1. yo. K3. 13 sts.4th row: P8. Inc 1 st in next st. K4. 14 sts.5th row: K4. P2. K3. yo. K1. yo. K4. 16 sts.

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6th row: P10. Inc 1 st in next st. K5. 17 sts.7th row: K4. P3. K4. yo. K1. yo. K5. 19 sts.8th row: P12. Inc 1 st in next st. K6. 20 sts.9th row: K4. P4. Sl1K. K1. psso. K7. K2tog. K1.18 sts.10th row: P10. Inc 1 st in next st. K7. 19 sts.11th row: K4. P5. Sl1K. K1. psso. K5. K2tog. K1.17 sts.12th row: P8. Inc 1 st in next st. K2. P1. K5. 18 sts.13th row: K4. P1. K1. P4. Sl1K. K1. psso. K3.K2tog. K1. 16 sts.14th row: P6. Inc 1 st in next st. K3. P1. K5. 17 sts.15th row: K4. P1. K1. P5. Sl1K. K1. psso. K1.K2tog. K1. 15 sts.16th row: P4. Inc 1 st in next st. K4. P1. K5. 16 sts.17th row: K4. P1. K1. P6. Sl1K. K2tog. psso. K1.14 sts.18th row: P2tog. Cast off 5 sts. (one st on right-hand needle). P3. K4. 8 sts.

These 18 rows form pattern.Continue in pattern until border fits around entire afghan, allowing sufficient length to gather at each corner, sewing in place as you work and ending with 18th row of pat. Cast off. Sew end of border tog.

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This is a photo of a sample square of the SHAWL pattern. It is a) slip stitched together with a contrasting yarn, and b) the triangles are different coloured. The final blanket (for it will be a blanket, not a shawl) will have all squares made up of four different coloured triangles and will be assembled with black yarn. That wooden stick across the lower triangle is a one-foot ruler. The square itself is almost 30 inches across … not stretched and not bordered. It’s done with worsted weight acrylic yarn on old Boye US #8 needles. Jessica-Jean 14 August 2011