[ PO331 ] The assessment of efficacy and tolerability of cosmetics for acne-affected skin. Tazbir M. 1, Vincent C. 3, Dębowska R. 3, Kaszuba A. 1,2, Kaszuba

[PO331] The assessment of efficacy and tolerability of cosmetics for acne-affected skin.Tazbir M.1, Vincent C.3, Dębowska R.3, Kaszuba A. 1,2, Kaszuba A.1,2 , Solyga-Zurek A.3,4, Eris I.3

1Department of Dermatology, Pediatric Dermatology and Oncology, Medical University of Lodz, Kniaziewicza 1/5, 91-347 Lodz, 2Specialist Medical Offices „Dermed” in Lodz, Piotrkowska 48, 90-265, Lodz, 3Dr. Irena Eris Cosmetic Laboratories, Dr. Irena Eris Centre for Science and Research, Pulawska 107A, 02-595 Warsaw, 4 Department of Genetics and Biotechnology, Faculty of Biology, University of Warsaw, Pawinskiego 5a, 02-106 Warsaw.

IntroductionAcne vulgaris is a very common disease of sebaceous glands concerning especially young people. The etiopathology of acne is a very complex process which involves four inter-related factors: increased sebum excretion, hyperkeratinization of the pilosebaceous units, ductal hypercolonization by Propionibacterium acnes and inflammation.

Most adolescents (85%) develop mild physiological acne [1] and this may respond to topical treatment. The aim of the study was to determine the efficacy and application qualities of the cosmetics (anti-acne face cream, antibacterial face gel wash and micellar solution) for acne-affected skin.

[1] Fitzpatrick T.B., Eisen A.Z., Wolf K., Fredbera I.M. Dermatology in General Medicine. McGraw-Hill, New York, 1993: p. 709.

Materials and MethodsDermatologists conducted the study on a group of 80 people. The patients, divided into two 40-person groups, tested the selected cosmetics every day for 12 weeks.

• in group A – a skin-care cream with piroctone olamine, Tamarindus indica and Arctium majus extracts, with a gel wash with mandelic acid and sodium salicylate;

• in group B – the skin-care cream and a micellar solution with mandelic acid, burdock extract and biotin.

A dermatological assessment of the condition of the skin was performed once every 4 weeks.

The assessment included:• the evaluation of the intensity of the symptoms on the Hellegren-Vincent scale, allowing the assessment of the overall severity of major acne symptoms (erythema, blackheads, pustules, inflammatory papules) (Table 1);

• estimation of the number of imperfections (papules, pustules, blackheads);

• assessment of the level of seborrhea.

After 12 weeks, each patient completed a survey, evaluating the quality of application and use of the tested cosmetics.

Table 1 - The scale of Hellegren and Vincent

Severit

y

Symptoms

I° erythema, blackheads, 1-5 pustules or papules

II° erythema, blackheads, 6-10 pustules or papules

III° erythema, blackheads, 11-20 pustules or papules

IV° erythema, blackheads, 21-30 pustules or papules

V° erythema, blackheads, over 30 pustules or

papules

Results (1)

Based on the results of the clinical studies, it was concluded that all tested products were safe in application. There were only several cases of mild skin irritation (2 in group A and 6 in group B), which involved mild skin redness and/or increased scaling. All irritation symptoms persisted for maximum 4 days (in group B) and all of the patients completed the study.

During the 3-months observation, it was shown that the tested products were highly effective. Both groups displayed an improvement in skin condition (Fig. 1). A reduction in severity of all acne symptoms, according to the Hellgren-Vincent scale, was noted for 25% (by 18%) and for 35% (by 27%) of all patients in groups A and B, respectively (Fig. 2).

Figure 1. Patients (1 – group A, 2 – group B) before (a) and after the 90 day trial (b).

Figure 2. Changes in the intensity of acne symptoms, Hellegren-Vincent scale [%]. Data average for all patients with reduction in all acne symptoms, 25% and 35% of all patients in groups A and B respectively.

2.a2.b

1.a 1.b



Results (2)

During the 12 weeks test, the level of seborrhea decreased by 26% in group A (for 37,5% of patients) and by 36% in group B (for 50% of patients) (Fig. 3), and the number of pustules was reduced by 49% in group A (for 45% of patients) and by 62% in group B (for 45% of patients) (Fig. 4).

The number of blackheads decreased as well, by 33,7% in group A (for 65% of patients) and by 32,8% in group B (for 40% of patients) (Fig. 5).

For a great majority of patients an anti-inflammatory effect and a reduction in the number of inflammatory papules was observed. The reduction was 50,5% in group A (for 87,5% of patients) and 53,5% in group B (for 90% of patients) (Fig. 6).

Figure 3. Changes in the severity of seborrhea. Data average for all patients with improvement in this aspect, 37.5% and 50% of all patients in groups A and B respectively.

Figure 4. Changes in the number of pustules. Data average for all patients with improvement in this aspect, 45% of all patients in groups A and B.

Figure 6. Changes in the number of inflammatory papules. Data average for all patients with improvement in this aspect, 87.5% and 90% of all patients in groups A and B respectively.

Figure 5. Changes in the number of blackheads.. Data average for all patients with improvement in this aspect, 65% and 40% of all patients in groups A and B respectively.



Figure 7. Patients assessing positively various qualities of the skin-care day cream (% of all patients participating in the study).

Results (3)

A clear majority of the patients gave high marks to the quality of application and use for the skin care cream (Fig. 7).

Most patients also evaluated positively the efficacy and anti-acne properties of the formulation – reduction in number of papules and skin imperfections, anti-shine properties, antibacterial and anti-inflamatory activities (Fig. 8).

Figure 8. Patients assessing positively the efficacy of the skin-care day cream (% of all patients participating in the study).



Results (4)

Both cleansing products were also evaluated as effective and with good anti-inflammatory and anti-acne properties (Fig. 9 and 10). A majority of the patients participating in the study declared, that they will to continue usage the tested products.

Conclusions

In both groups a significant number of patients showed a clear improvement in their overall skin condition. The tested cosmetics meet the criteria for use by patients with mild and average symptoms of acne vulgaris, and may be used to supplement pharmacological treatment.

Figure 9. Patients assessing positively various qualities of the face cleansing gel (% of all patients participating in the study).

Figure 10 Patients assessing positively various qualities of the micellar solution (% of all patients participating in the study).



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[ PO331 ] The assessment of efficacy and tolerability of cosmetics for acne-affected skin. Tazbir M. 1, Vincent C. 3, Dębowska R. 3, Kaszuba A. 1,2, Kaszuba