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IntroductionWelcome to the Robie Cat family of sailors. Thanks for joining us. By purchasing the

Robie 17, you are treating yourself to the ultimate in single hand sailing enjoyment.Even if you have long experience with sailboats or if you have owned Robie Cats in the

past, please read this manual thoroughly. It will give you easy, accurate instructions onassembling your new boat. We suggest reading through the manual completely before youbegin assembly. Pay special attention to the boat and parts descriptions shown on the follow-mg pages.

If you are new to sailing, this manual will not teach you how to sail. There are manyexcellent courses and books available on the safe handling of small sailboats. Contact yourRobie dealer or local Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommendations on courses in your area.They'll be happy to help. For your information, we have included a toll-free number on page25 which will enable you to learn more about courses in your area.

Please remember to obey the most important rule of all when assembling your boat -stay away from overhead power lines! Before starting to rig your boat, thoroughly examinethe area for power lines and report any potentially hazardous power line that you see bywriting to the reponsible utility company, send a copy to Robie Cat Bounty Program, P.O.Box 1008, Oceanside, CA 92054 and sail elsewhere. Remember, CONTACT OF A MASTWITR A POWER LINE COULD BE FATAL.

The Robie 17 is made with the innovative ComptipTM mast tip (U.S. Pat. No. 4,597,346).This is an essentially non-conducting composite tip which can help prevent electrocution andboat damage from mast/power line contact. Robie Cat worked many years to develop thisnew tip so that it would be as effective as possible. Still, nothing can pro'vide total protectionat all times, so it's best to avoid wires. Be sure to read the "Maintenance" section to find outhow to protect the tip's insulating ability.

By following the instructions, maintaining your new boat properly and observing safetyrules, we're confident you'll receive many years of sailing enjoyment from the Hobie 17.

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COMPTIP

HOSIE 17Terminology

MAST TANG

BAT

ALUMINUMlOWER MAST

SHROUD

TRAPEZE LINE

ClE

OUTMAl OOWNHAUl

MAST BASE LE ADJUSTER

TillUPPER FRONT CROSSBAR

RUOOESTERN CASTIN BOW

lOWERRUOOECASTIN

WARNINGBefore starting assembly, be sure the area in

which you plan to work is free from overhead \power lines. Contact of a mast with a power .line could be fatal.

Tool List .

You will need the following tools to complete assembly:

1. 1/4" alIen wrench 5. standard pliers 9. knife or razor blade2. phillips head screwdriver 6. needle-nose pliers 10. 7/16" socket wrench or3. flathead screwdriver 7. bailing wire open-end wrench4. rubber mallet 8. anti-seizing lubricant 11. adjustable wrench

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1. Rear Crossbar 10. Trampoline Lace Line 16. White Teflon Rudder2. Right 17 ,Hull (Starboard) 11. Trampoline Corner Tie Pin Bearings (6)3. Eye Straps (4) Lines (4) 17. Rudder Pins (2)4. Trampoline 12. Wing Frames (2) 18. Tiller Crossbar5. Front Crossbar 13. Wing Trampolines (2) w/Extension6. Left 17 Hull (Port) 14. Removable Wing Bar (2) 19. Tiller Connector Kit (2)7. Crossbar Bolts (4) 15. Rudder/Tiller Assemblies (2) 20. Drain Plugs (2)8. Anchor Bars (4) Red Sticker = Port (left) 21. Wire Set9. Plastic Caps (4) Green Sticker = Stbd. (right) 22. Large Bell Shackle

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23. Mast 31. "J & H" Trapeze Handles (2) 39. Double Block24. Small Bell Shackle (1) 32. Rope Locks (2) 40. Downhaul Line25. 10-Hole Stay Adjuster (4) 33. Mainsail 41. Triple Boom Block26. 1/2" Clevis Pin and Ring .(8) 34. Battens (6) 42. Mainsheet Cleat/Triple Block27. White Shroud Adjuster 35. Mast Rotation Line 43. Mainsheet

Covers (2) 36. Downhaul Single Block 44. Boom28. Mast Step Pin and Rings w/Shackle 45. Shackle w/Pins & Rings for29. Trapeze Shock Cord 37. 11/4" Clevis Pin and Ring #41 & 4230. Trapeze Lines (2) 38. Twist Shackle 46. Hull Wing Opening Caps (4)

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HOBIE 17 ASSEMBLY MANUAL UPDATESThe following items have been changed or re-designed.

Section I Trampoline installation. CROSSBAR

The trampoline has been changed from theoriginal one or two piece to the three pieceshown here.

Install as shown here.

1. Slide left and right halfs into front crossbarusing slot in center of front crossbar. Slidetrampolines aft along tracks in hulls. Fastencorners to eyestraps with shackles. Shackleconnections are only used at front corners.

I .

2. Fold rear section in two then feed from 0 0center slot in rear crossbar towards each hull.

3. Lace as shown in diagram to right. Tie off 0one end of each lace line at grommet indicat- 0

ed as #1 (3 lace lines) with a bowline knot.Follow number sequence and end at rear cen-ter area. Tighten and tie off with several halfhitch knots.

NOTE: do not over-tighten as damage maybe caused to grommets.

Section I X Boom

The gooseneck connection (boom to mast)has been changed from the original assembly.

MASTInstall as shown here.

1. The gooseneck fitting is installed in themast base and held from vertical movementby the clevis pin that supports the downhaulblock.

2. Bolt the "U" shaped stainless steel plate(vertex) to the boom pin.

3. the "U" shaped stainless steel plate(vertex)is pinned to the gooseneck by a clevis pin MAST BASEpassed through vertically.

Assembly InstructionsI. Frame and Vinyl Trampoline

Assembly Instructions(See page 8 for mesh trampoline instructions.)

Note ~':

All directions referring to "right," "left,""front" and "back" are based on looking fromthe stern toward the bow.

1. First, with the trampoline track facingforward, slip the rear crossbar (part no. 1)onto the right hull (part no. 2). The factory-installed support castings slide into thecrossbar. Be sure the crossbar fits entirely Fig. 2over the support casting. It may be neces-sary to tap the crossbar onto the hull withthe rubber mallet. See Figure 1.

Fig. 3eyestrap is attached to its crossbar andpositioned as shown in Figure 3, tighten the

Fig. 1 eyestrap.2. Slide one of the four eyestraps (part no. 3) 6. Attach the front crossbar (part no. 5) onto

on the crossbar by slipping the square nut the left hull (part no. 6) over the crossbarinside the track. The eyestrap should be receiver casting. Slide the eyes trap on as inpositioned as close to the hull as possible, step 5.without touching it. 7. Slide the left corner of the trampoline into

the right side of the front crossbar fromNote right to left. The flap on the trampoline

should be on the top on this side. Now slideThe trampoline (part no. 4) is split diagonally on the last eyestrap (part no. 3).

into two halves. The right, rear section of the 8. Now slide the small bolt rope down thevinyl trampoline has Velcro@ patches sewn to siderail of the left hull. Check to make sureit. The left, forward section has a 4-inch flap there is an eyestrap on all four corners ofalso with Velcro@ patches. the trampoline.

9. You can now join the left hull, the forward3. Now, insert the rear bolt rope of the vinyl crossbar, and the trampoline assembly to

trampoline (item 5) into the crossbar track the right hull rear crossbar and trampoline.and slide it across from left to right. First, attach the left side of the rear cross-

4. Now slide the right trampoline bolt rope bar and the left hull, making sure thethrough the track on the right hull. Refer to crossbar is completely over the supportFigure 2 for completed procedure. casting. Next, slip the front, right receiver

5. Slide the second eyestrap (part no. 3) onto into the right side of the front crossbar sothe crossbar so one eyestrap is on each side each corner of each crossbar fits snuglyof the trampoline on the crossbar. As each over the castings as shown in Figure 1.

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CAUTION Note

Before completing step 1.0, check the threads Once the boat has been sailed a few times itof the crossbar bolts (part no. 7) by hand screw- takes on "normal set." In other words, theing them into each anchor bar (part no. 8). If crossbar and hulls will set and need retighten-the bolt will not thread easily, use a tap and die ing. This setting also occurs after traileringto clear the threads. Use an anti-seizing lubri- any long distance. This tightening procedurecant such as Never-SeeZi!J to help prevent cross- should be performed periodically.threading and galling.

11. Once each bolt is tightened securely, insert10. Now that the boat is framed, you can insert the four plastic caps (part no. 9) into each

the crossbar bolts (part no. 7) into each of existing access hole in the crossbars. If thethe access holes on the inboard side of each track on the rear crossbar intereferes withcrossbar. The access holes can be seen in the covers, slice a small piece of the cap offthe center of the crossbar in Figure 3. To using a razor blade. (See Figure 6.)help align the bolt and anchor bar underthe rail, use one of the other bolts to holdthe anchor bar in position while starting tothread the assembly from the top using the1/4-inch alIen wrench. (See Figures 4 and 5for reference.)

Fig. 6

12. Lace the trampoline using the suppliedlength of 1/4-inch lace line (part no. 10).Thread the line by alternating trampolinegrommets on each side. Tie one end off to

Fig 4 the last grommet and eyestrap (see Fig. 7)." . Work the lace line tighter and tighter be-. tween the grommets from each end, then

secure the line once again at each end as inFig. 7.

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Fig. 7Fig. 5

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13. Use the supplied trampoline corner tie lines(3/16 x 12" part no. 11) to tighten eachcorner of the trampoline to its correspond-ing eyestrap. Tighten snugly (see Figure 8).Close the flap and check the fit. This com-pletes the vinyl trampoline installation.

Fig. 8

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II. Frame and Mesh TrampolineNote

Note Placing the bows in a slightly toed-in positionwill make sliding the trampoline easier.

The one-piece mesh trampoline installs withthe lacing grommets on the side closest to the 8. Slide the front crossbeam onto the trampo-rear crossbar. The side with grommets nearest line bolt rope suspended between the hulls.the crossbar, is the rear portion of the trampo- 9. Slide each front eyestrap on either side ofline. the front crossbar so one is at each end.

All directions referring to "right," "left," 10. Spread the bows apart slightly and insert"front" and "back" are based on looking from one side of the crossbar over its receiver.the stems toward the bows. Then slip on the other side. Use the rubber

mallet to snug each side onto its receiver.1. First, with the trampoline track facing 11. Attach the crossbar bolts as described in

forward, slip the rear crossbar (part no. 1) steps 10 and 11 of section I.onto the right hull (part no. 2). The factory-installed support castings slide into thecrossbar. Be sure the crossbar fits entirely Noteover the support casting. It may be neces-sary to tap the crossbar onto the hull with Once the boat has been sailed a few times itthe rubber mallet. See Figure 1. takes on "normal set." In other words, the

2. Slide one of the four eyestraps (part no. 3) crossbar and hulls will set and need retighten-on the crossbar by slipping the square nut ing. This setting also occurs after traileringinside the track. The eyestrap should be any long distance. This tightening procedurepositioned as close to the hull as possible should be performed periodically.without touching it.

3. Slide the mesh trampoline (part no. 4), with 12. Secure the trampoline comers as in step 13,the grommets aft, into and across the rear section I.crossbar (part no. 1).

4. Slide the second eyestrap (part no. 3) into This completes assembly of mesh trampo-position so there is one at each comer of lines.the trampoline. Tighten the eyestraps.

5. Slip the left side of the rear crossbar ontothe left hull. You may need to use therubber mallet to tap the assembly snug.

CAUTION

Before completing step 5, check the threadsof the crossbar bolts by hand screwing theminto each anchor bar by hand. If the bolt willnot thread easily, use a tap and die to clear thethreads. Use an anti-seizing lubricant such asNever-Seez@ to help prevent crossthreading andgalling.

6. Drop in each of the rear crossbar bolts intoeach side of the crossbar. DO NOT attachthe anchor bars (part nos. 7 and 8).

7. Slide both sides of the trampoline up bothsiderail grooves simultaneously.

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III. Vinyl and Mesh WingTrampolines

I

Both mesh and vinyl wing trampolines assem-ble in the same way.

1. Lay one wing frame (part no. 12) alongsideeach hull as if they were being insertedinto the hulls to make it easier to identifyeach side. The steeply angled end of eachwing should be facing toward the sterns.

2. Lay the wing trampoline (part no. 13)beside each wing frame to verify the cor-rect side as in Fig. 9. Fig. 10

3. Slide the wing trampolines onto the frontend of the wing frame. Be sure to slide allthree sections onto the frame.

Fig. 114. Once the wing tramp is fitted over the wing

Fig. 9 frame, slide the wing frame compressionbar (part no. 14) through the trampolineopening as in Fig. 12. Attach the oppositeend over the casting.

Note

The wing sleeve will only fit when you startinstalling it from the front end of the wingframe. Look closely at the frame and you'llnotice one end has a casting which extendsfurther from the frame. The sleeve of the tram-poline will not slide over this casting. (See Fig-ure 10.) Slide the sleeve on from the side shownin Figure 11.

Fig. 125. The wing now must be sprung enough to

allow the compression bar to slip over theopposite casting. Use your foot to spreadthe wing apart slightly. Slip the compres-sion bar over the casting and slowly release

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tension. Repeat this step on the other wing.(See Fig. 13.)

Fig. 13

6. Now set the wings aside while completingthe rest of the assembly.

This completes the wing frame and trampo-line assembly.

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IV. Rudder and Tiller Crossbar 3. Repeat these steps on the other rudderAssemblies assembly.

4. Attach the left end of the tiller crossbar(part no. 18 marked with a red tag) to the

Note left rudder arm using one of the tiller con-necting assemblies (part no. 19) by insert-

The rudder assemblies (part no. 15) are ing the connector bolt through the tillermarked with red and green tags. Red tags stand crossbar to the tiller arm.for left side assembly while green stands for 5. Place the flat washer over the threads ofright side. To help make assembly easier, place the bolt followed by the delrin half-roundall items marked with a red tag behind the left washer. Then place the crossbar arm onstern and green-tagged items behind the right. top of the white delrin washer locatedDo not mix differently tagged items. The fol- between the connector arm and the tillerlowing steps are identical for both assemblies. arm. Refer to Fig. 15.

Note

The rudder castings are installed with threesmall, white teflon bearings (part no. 16) whichare placed in the casting where the rudder pinslides through the casting. These bearings fitbetween the rudder pin and the casting withone on the top of the bottom casting and two inthe upper casting.

1. Grasp one of the rudder pins (part no. 17)so the end with the small hole and cotterpin faces up. Remove the cotter pin. Slide it F. 15 F. 16through both the lower rudder casting Ig. Ig.bearings and the gudgeo~ as. well as the 6. Then place the opposite white delrin washer~pper assembly as show~ m FIg. ~4.. When over the bolt threads followed by the washermserted: the small hole m the pm should and spring. Secure the assembly with theapp~ar Just above the top of. the ru~der Nylock nut. Tighten the nut to prevent thecast~ng. Be sure the small whIte bearIngs assembly from vibrating or backing out.are m place. See Fig. 16.

2. Insert the supplied cotter pin into therudder pin hole and bend the cotter pin toprevent rudder pin from backing out of the CAUTIONcasting: Refer to Fig. 14.

Be sure the nut is threaded past the nylonportion of the bottom of the nut by one com-plete thread as illustrated in Fig. 17.

Fig. 14

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Fig. 17

7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 on the other sideof the tiller crossbar.

This concludes assembly of the rudders andtiller crossbar.

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V. Drain Plugs

Both plugs (part no. 20) are the most oftenforgotten item during rigging, but among themost important. Even championship sailorsforget to put thejr drain plugs in once in awhile, but you can't go very far with them out. iBe sure to check your drain plugs before youleave shore. Be sure you have gaskets in placeand no sand, or other debris which can permitleakage, around the opening. Drain plug loca-tion is next to the lower gudgeon as shown inFigure 14.

VI. Mast Rigging, Raising andLowering

r""""""""""""~ WARNING r""""""""""1 Fig. 18 Fig. 19I I 5. Attach each of the two ten-hole stay adjus..I ~efore starting assembl.y, be sure the area in ~ ters (part no. 25) to the bow anchor pi~s.~ whIch ~ou plan to work IS free fro.m overhead I Pin the stay adjuster to the anchor pInS~ power lInes. Contact of a mast wIth a power I with the single open end down. For refer-I line could be fatal. I ence, see Figure 28. . .~ "..." 1 6. Attach each of the two remaInIng ten-hole. stay adjusters (part no. 25) to the each hull

Note at the chain plate anchor pin. Pin the stay t. .. adjusters to the anchor pins with the single

The WIre set for the Hoble 17 consIsts of the open end down. For reference, see Figurefollowing: Trapeze wires; Shrouds; Forestay; 21. jBridles. The trapeze ':lires and the .l~ft and 7. The main halyard (70' x 3/16" line) shouldright shrouds are unIversal. In addItIon, all be threaded through the top of the mast 'three forestay/bridle wires are the same length. and back down through the middle sheave :

at the base of the mast. If it is not, thread it1. Uncoil the supplied wire set (part no. 21) now. Check the halyard shackle and ring to

and. lay the wires on the groun.d in the fol- be sure they are attached to the end exiting IloWIng pattern from left to rIght: a. left the mast head. ,trapeze wire, b.. left s~roud wi~e, c. one of 8. Check the main halyard shackle and ring.the forestay/brldle WIres, d. rIght shroud Make sure the halyard is securely tied withwire, e. right trapeze wire. a halyard knot as described. (See "Knots"

2. Slide the wir~s onto the large bell shackle on page 17.) Be sure the halyard ring has a(part no. 22) m the same pattern as they twist shackle attached to it.were laid out in step 1. Then attach theshackle to the mast tang (part no. 23). Besure the trapeze wires are attached so the Notehandle end is not the end closest to thetang. Refer to Fig. 18. Make sure the knot is as small as possible so

3. Secure the shackle pin to the shackle with the ring will be able to clear the halyard hookbailing wire. Tie the shackle to the pin, to when fully hoisted as seen in Fig. 20. The knotprevent the pin from backing out. shown is much larger than that described on

4. Use the small bell shackle (part no. 24) to page 17. Use the halyard knot.attach the two bridles to the forestay.Securely tighten the shackle with pliers 9. Tie a figure-eight knot (see "Knots" on(see Fig. 19). page 17) at the bare end of the halyard.

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.. I Before raising the mast, be sure the area is I. free from overhead power lines. Contact of a II mast with a power line could be fatal. I, ~

15. Locate the mast step pin (part no. 28) fromthe mast base or rig kit.

16. Rotate the mast so the arrows are alignedand slip the mast base over the mast stepball. Then insert the step pin. Secure thepin in place by inserting the ring throughthe hole in the end of the pin. (See Fig. 22ring not secure.)

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Fig. 20 Fig. 21

CAUTION

Be sure the mast tip is supported by a rearmast support, a box, a ladder or a friend so itsweight does not lay on the tiller crossbar ordirectly on the boat during the following pro-cedure.

Fig. 2210. Position the mast so the mast tip points 17. To raise the mast alone, attach the shackle

toward the sterns and the mast base is end of the main halyard to the right bow'snext to the mast step ball on the forward ten-hole adjuster (Fig. 27), being certain itcrossbar so the yellow arrows are aligned, passes over both the left and right shrouds,Check both shroud wires to be sure they trapeze wires and the forestay.are not fouled or wrapped around the mast.

11. Now slip the white shroud covers (part no.27), thimble end first, over each shroud CAUTIONcover through the smallest opening in theend of the cover. The first time you try to raise the mast, have

12. Attach both left and right shrouds to the the help of two friends available. Also check theten-hole stay adjusters on corresponding gooseneck to be certain it is not positioned at ansides of the boat. Place each shroud wire in angle forward or away from the top of the

r the st.ay adjuster and insert the clevis pin mast. !f .it is, tilt or ti,e it to the rotation arm to\ and rIng (part no. 26). Use the fourth hole prevent It from touchIng the front crossbar dur-from the top of each stay adjuster. (See ing raising. '

f Figure 21.)13. Clear each trapeze wire so they are not

fouled around the opposite shroud or the ~ WARNING """""""""""""""""iforestay. I I

14. Check the forestay to be certain it is not. Before raising the mast, be sure the area is Ifouled around the shrouds during the mast. free from overhead power lines. Contact of a Iraising. Be sure it remains clear. I mast with a power line could be fatal. I' 1.

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18. Step onto the trampoline and place yourfoot on the rear crossbar.

19. Keeping all the weight on that foot, lift themast being sure to keep it rotated so theyellow arrows are aligned. Refer to Fig. 23. t-

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Fig. 26with one hand to stabilize the mast once itis completely up, while you perform thenext step with the other hand..

22. Take up the slack in the main halyard (Fig.Fig 23 27) and secure the main halyard to the. . . mast rotation bar or the mast base, which-

20. S~I~g your arms over your head .while ever is most comfortable for you. Tie itshIftIng your body under the mast. (FIg. 24) very securely with a double or triple hitch

(see "Knots" on page 17). Remember, theknot you tie here will have to support thetotal weight of the mast once you releaseforward pressure. Due to the distance andcharacteristics of the line, try to pull somestretch into it.

Fig. 2421. Push the mast up and over your head, then

walk it forward grasping hand-over-handas you go. (Figs. 25, 26) If you are raisingthe mast alone, maintain forward pressure

ring (part no. 26), using the fourth holefrom the top. (Fig. 28)

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Fig. 28

24. Now slowly release the main halyard. Letabout 2 feet of the halyard line run throughthe sheave and tie the rest securely to themast rotation bar or the mast base as instep 23 of this chapter. The angle of themast will shift from left to right as the loadis shifted from the main halyard to the sidebridle wire.

25. Locate the other bridle wire. Clear the bri-dle of any wraps and attach the clearedbridle to the right ten-hole adjuster youinstalled during step 6 of this chapter VI.Insert the clevis pin and ring (part no. 26),using the fourth hole from the top.

26. Release the twist shackle endot1temainhalyard from the right ten-hole adjuster.

27. Secure the shackled end of the main hal-yard to the boat to prevent it from slippingto the top of the mast accidentally.

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VII. Trapeze Wires

1. Lead the trapeze shock cord (part no. 29)through the grommet on the forward out-board side of the trampoline, then underthe trampoline and through the oppositegrommet.

2. Clear the trapeze handles so they lead tothe outside of the shrouds. Then tie the 3-foot length of quarter-inch line (part no. 30)to the dogbone or the J and H handle(optional) with a bowline knot. After theline is led through the thimble on the endof the trapeze wire, attach the rope lock(part no. 32). Now tie the end of the line tothe shock cord with another bowline knot.(The complete assembly is shown in Fig.29.)

Fig. 29

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VIII. Sail and Battens shackle tightly. Feed the sail luff throughthe sail feeder on the mast (Figure 31). Use

1. Spread the sail (part no. 33) out flat on the the halyard to gradually pull the sail upground and lay each batten (part no. 34) while guiding the luff into the feeder. If theover the correct batten pocket. sail binds at the feeder, back it down a bit,

then continue pulling it up.

CAUTION

It's important that the sail be perfectly flaton the ground. A wrinkled sail could lead to atear in the sail fabric when the battens arepushed into their pockets.

Note

When battens are laid over the correct pocket,two to three inches of the batten end should belaying over the outer edge of the sail.

2. Start at the top of the sail and insert eachbatten into its pocket being sure that theend of the batten with the flat end cap slipsin first.

3. Tie each batten snugly with the batten ties .as shown in Figure 30. (Batten ties have .been attached to the corner of the sail FIg. 31before shipping.) Battens are at the correct 6. When the sail nears the halyard hook attightness when the batten has removed the the top of the mast, gently pull the sail upwrinkles from the pocket. Proper tension and listen for a slight "click" as the ringwill vary with wind conditions. passes the small hook. (See Fig. 32) Then

'I rotate the mast to the right by pushing on, the mast rotation arm at the mast base.

Then release the halyard. When you thinkit has locked, pull down on the bottom ofthe sail to be certain.

Note

If you raise the sail too quickly or pull toohard, you will slide the hook past the lock. Thering will then slide back down past the lockassembly. Use a gentle touch when nearing thelock assembly and listen for the click. When

Fig. 30 disengaging the ring, pull the halyard so the4. Point your Hobie 17 into the wind. This hook passes th~ lock, thus allowing the arm to

allows you to pull up the sail easily and close and the rIng to pass the hook.

prevents the boat from sailing away.5. Check the halyard to be sure it is not

wrapped around the mast or shrouds. Twist-ing the main halyard approximately sixtimes in a clockwise direction may facili-tate halyard locking. Then attach the hal-yard to the top of the sail and secure the

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Fig. 32

Downhaul Line Rigged

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-19-

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IX. Boom

1. Hold the boom (part no. 44) with the slotand the two cleats facing up and slip it ontothe gooseneck mast fitting. Secure the boomwith the clevis pin and ring. (Fig. 33)

Fig. 35NOTE: Figure shows Rotation and Downhau/ Rigged.

4. Now turn to the downhaul. First, attachthe small single block (part no. 36) andsmall shackle using the clevis pin and ring(part no. 37). Place the clevis pin through

. one of the two holes on the top of the mastFIg. 33 base casting, attach the block and shackle

2. Attach the outhaul (secured to the cleat through the pin, then push the pin throughunderneath the boom) to the sail by remov- ~he second .hole in the base casting. Nowing the pin from the outhaul shackle and Insert the rIng to secure the pin.attaching the shackle to the third inboard 5. Use the twist shackle to attach the doublehole in the plate on the sail. (Newer models block (part no. 39) to the grommet at thehave only three holes. See Figure 34.) bottom of the sail.

6. Use a halyard knot (see "Knots" page 17) totie the downhaul line (part no. 40) (7' x3/16" line) to the pin or bolt in the mastbase. Then thread the line up to andthrough the double block, down to thesmall sheave in the mast base castingopposite from the bolt. Then thread the lineback up to the double block and down tothe small single block you attached in Step4. Then take the line through the cleat

just behind the mast rotation cleat. Refer toFigure 35 for the complete assembly. Oncethe line is through the cleat, tie a figure-eight knot in the end of the line.

Fig. 34

3. Use a bowline knot to tie the mast rotationline (part no. 35) (3' x 3/16" line) to theboom cleat closest to the mast. Then leadthe line through the mast rotation arm andback through the cleat as shown in Figure35. Once the line is through the cleat, tie afigure-eight knot in the end of the line.

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X. Mainsheet and Traveller the small padeye on the back side of therear crossbar and tie a figure-eight knot to

1. Turn to the mainsheet package. First, at- secure the line. Refer ~o Figures 36 and 37tach the triple block (part no. 41) to the for the completed mamsheet system. Re-bale on the boom using the supplied shackle, ~em.ber that the system features a crossedclevis pin and ring. lIne m the purchase.

2. Attach the mainsheet cleat and triple block(part no. 42) to the traveller car on the rear ..

crossbar using the other supplied shackle,clevis pin and ring. .3. Lead the mainsheet (part no. 43) (42' x ""c'.7/16" line) from the cleat on the triple 'r"block, through the padeye, the cleat and the 1:center sheave (part no. 42). Then take the ,I'.:line up to the ouside sheave on the boomblock (part no. 41), down through the out-side sheave on the same side on the lowerblocks and up through the center sheave onthe top blocks. Continue stringing the endof the mainsheet down through the lastopen sheave on the lower blocks, up through Fig 37the last open sheave on the top blocks, .

down through the small padeye on thebackside of the cleat on the lower blocksand then secure the end of the line with afigure-eight knot. For the complete assem-bly, refer to Fig. 36.

i

!

Fig. 364. Now rig the traveller line by using the

opposite end of the mainsheet from the oneyou just tied off in step 3. Lead this endthrough the swivel cleat attached to therear crossbar, then the bullseye and finallythrough the traveller car which slides onthe rear crossbar. Take the end through

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XI. Installing the Wings 1. Place the trapeze wire and hookup outsideof the wings as in Figure 29.

Now that the entire boat is rigged, you're 2. ~o insert t~e wings, simply work the inser-ready to insert the wings for sailing. We've tIon tub~s Into the hull.sockets an .inc~ orsaved the wings for last to prevent you from so at a time. Push one sIde of the WIng Intoconstantly having to step around them while the tube, then the other and continueyou performed the other rigging chores. .alternating until both sides are completely

Inserted.

CAUTIONNote

It is very important that the wings be com-pletely inserted when sailing or whenever any ~f the wings cannot be easily inserted usingload is applied to them. Failure to completely thIS syste~, check t~e.end caps for debris (suchinsert the wings will result in hull and/or wing as sand), Improper fItting or metal burrs.damage. You have inserted the wings com-pletely when the band of tape on the outboardside of each insertion tube aligns with the top CAUTIONof the boat deck. For correct distances, pleasecheck drawing below. Be sure to cover the hull wing openings with

the four white caps after removing the wings.This can be especially important when freezingconditions exist. If any water is allowed intothe sockets and then freezes, hull damage couldresult. When storing the boat for extendedperiods, use tape and/or silicone to seal theholes more effectively. Maximum load capacityon the wing is 350 lb.

TAPE LOCATION FOR WINGS,.,~- USE TAPE TO ""'CA~ ~ LCGSOOTTa. OUT. 'N W"., SOCKCTS.

If cap extends out IIpast aluminum tubing. IIfile down until flush

~ with tube.~ 1"Widetape11" AFT(j 3 " II If aluminum tubing

:- 14 Y4 FWD. extends past cap. file{ f / WING CAP INSTAllATION s~arp corners flush""",j with cap.

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XII. Centerboards kn.°t to make fo! a seven-inch extension. ToraIse the board, Just pull upon the handle and

. slide the line into the cleat just below the last~he centerboard syst~m (Pate~t Pendmg), figure-eight knot. The removable spring is

';Vhlch has ~lready be~n mstalled m each hull, shown with the board in Figure 38. To removeIS a revolutIonary desIgn made easy to operate.The centerboards are spring loaded for ease ofadjustment. Note the small handle exiting thedeck from atop the centerboard well. The boardis held in the fully "up" position by the figure- ,eight knot in the line. It may be desirable toinstall a small stainless steel washer betweenthe top figure-eight knot and the centerboardhandle. When the handle is lifted slightly andmoved forward, the tension is released and theboard is free to drop into the fully extendedposition.

Most sailors prefer to place several knots atdifferent locations along the line to allow forcenterboard adjustment. Several adjustment .knots can be placed in the line at one time to FIg. 38permit the boards to extend to a variety of the board, untie the knots that exit thru thedepths. When the board is fully extended deck and slowly release.it should reach 14 inches as measured The boards then can be removed by unhook-from the bottom of the hull to the tip of ing them from the bar in the board well. Thethe board. Most sailors like at least one other spring can be removed by itself once the board

is lowered out of the well approximately 16inches.

CENTERBOARDILowered position)

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X III. T r a i I e r in g r""""""""""'~ W ARNIN G , ~I I

In addition to following all the insructions I NEVER trailer your Hobie 17 so that the plastic Iincluded with your trailer and obeying the rele- I luff track of the Comptip'M mast is allowed to Ivant state laws concerning trailering boats, I touch the rear crossbar or mast support. Con- Iseveral safety tips should be included in your I tact of the track with either will result in dam- Inormal routine to assure the safe passage of I age to the luff track. For more on the Comptip'M Iyour Hobie 17. I mast, see the maintenance instructions which I

I follow. I1. Use an extra length of line to tie the cen- ~ ~

terboard control lines back to the rearcrossbar to prevent the line from slipping CAUTIONand allowing the centerboards to fall ontothe trailer or roadway. DO NOT USE THE WINCH LINE FROM

2. If the rudder system has not been removed YOUR TRAILER TO TIE THE MAST YOKE,for trailering, be sure to tie the tiller cross- IF SO EQUIPPED.bar down to the rear crossbar after therudders have been kicked up to prevent therudders from accidentally lowering duringtravel. Failure to tie the tiller crossbardown could result in rudder damage.

3. Remove each wing from its socket andinsert each one into the opposite side of theboat from normal sailing. This will allowthe wings to remain in a straight-up posi-tion to reduce the beam of the boat to alawful trailering width (Figure 39).

Fig. 39

4. Before starting on your way with the boaton the trailer, make sure that the boat issecurely strapped/tied down. Make surethat the mast is tied down securely at thefore and aft locations, preventing the mastbecoming loose during transport.

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XIV. Maintenance C. AppearanceA. ComptipTM Mast

(U.S. Pat. No. 4,597,346) It's very easy to keep your new Robie 17fresh-looking. Just follow these minor steps.

To be sure your mast is providing maximumprotection, it has to be periodically maintained 1. After each sail, especially a salt-water sail,and examined. The following simple steps thoroughly rinse your boat with fresh,should be undertaken after each sail. clean water to remove salt, grime or other

foreign material. This will help prevent1. Because surface contamination can allow your metal parts from corroding.

the ComptipTM to conduct electricity, the 2. When not using your boat, keep the tram-fiberglass tip should be carefully and thor- poline covered to protect it from the damag-oughly cleaned with fresh water after each ing rays of the sun. Remove the trampolineuse. In the event fresh water will not when storing your boat for the winter andremove surface film or other contamina- keep it indoors.tion, use soap and water only. DO NOT 3. Carefully inspect all metal parts, fittingsattempt to clean the ComptipTM mast with and wires for signs of stress and wear asany type of solvent. Acetone or other sol- you rig your boat before each sail. If avents will damage the luff track. wire looks frayed or corroded, have it re-

2. Do not leave the mast tip in direct sunlight placed.for extended periods. Cover the tip when- 4. After a high-speed capsize or a pounding inever it is not in use so ultraviolet rays will the surf, completely examine your boat fornot degrade the surface. any signs of stress. Look at the crossbar to

3. Always trailer the luff track facing up. Do hull area, the rudder system, etc.not allow mast tie-downs to touch the luff 5. When storing your boat for the winter,track. Use a minimum of 1-1/2 inches of cover it with an opaque sheet of plastic.soft padding around the mast tip and place Form the plastic into an A-frame. By tent-t~e paddi~g between the luff track and any ing your boat, you will prevent snow,tIe-down h~es. leaves and other debris from accumulating

4. When storIng the mast, be sure the luff on the hulls. Be sure no water lies in thetrack is facing up. DO NOT apply any hulls or the wing sockets. Freezing water I

pressure to the luff track during storage. in those areas could cause hull damage.5. ~lease remember that the ComptipTM mast 6. Regular cleaning, waxing and polishing

IS not.a total guarantee against injury or will keep your boat looking good for yearsdeath m the event of a mast/powerline con- to come.tact. If the surface or luff groove is contam-inated with moisture, salt, dirt or otherforeign matter; or, if the mast touches aline carrying extremely high voltage, anelectrical injury could still occur. Addition-ally, the protection is, obviously, confinedto the tip area only. A contact of the alumi- ..num portion of the mast, shrouds or fore- For more mformat~on a~out boating or avail-stay is still extremely dangerous. The only able classes ~nd semm~rs m y~ur area, call thesure protection for any sailor on any boat is toll-free boatIn.g educatIon hothne a! 1-800-336-a complete avoidance of electrical power- ~OAT. Or, wrIte to your state boatIng author-lines. Ity, local power squadron, or the U.S. Coast

Guard, Office of Boating, Public and ConsumerB T . ht . Affairs, Washington, D.C. 20593. 19 enmg .

Once the boat has been sailed a few times ittakes on "normal set." In other words, thecrossbar and hulls will set and need retighten- REMEMBERing. This setting also occurs after trailering Send in your warranty card.any long distance. This tightening procedureshould be performed periodically.

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KNOTS TO USE

FIGURESKNOT AT ENDOF LINE

DOUBLE HITCH KNOT FIGURE 8 KNOT BOWLINE KNOT HALYARD KNOT

1. 2. /~ ~~ /""--- ~~-- - -, -- -FINISH WITH

[~/ A HALF HITCH

FI

CLEATING OFF A LINE

BASIC SAILING

~~~~ WIND ,,'~ ~'~' -:::s;;. ~~ ~ ~W~ t;;'J / W(QU'I' DEAD ~~ WINDCLoSE ~~ AREA ~~~ ~ ~~..t\\

COMINGflE4Cp ~. ,," :\-\)~~ -, '1 ~, ~ ABOUT

~~..t\\ " to/tJAf,- ~~\)\\\~ .«.,~~ : ~ -?~ flE4CII

~ , , 'Q~ ' , -?~

H ~ HEAD~~Points of Sail Changing Direction

-26-

.

.Remember

Watch for overhead wires whenever you are sailing, launching, or traileringwith the mast up. The mast sticks up there a long way and shock or death couldresult if it comes in contact with overhead wires. So look up when moving theboat around or even stePPing the mast, and give any wires a wide berth.

.~~ ~ -