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Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener)by steliart on May 4, 2010

Table of Contents

Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Intro:   Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Step 1:   Materials & Hardware: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 2:   The Lathe Bed: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Step 3:   The Lathe's Motor: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Step 4:   The Lathe's Headstock: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Step 5:   The Lathe's Tailstock: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Step 6:   Belt & Grinder Guards: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 7:   Tool Rest: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Step 8:   Faceplate Attachment: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Step 9:   Sanding Disk & Sanding Table Attachment: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Step 10:   Bench Grinder or Sharpening Station: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Step 11:   An Alternative Solution: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Author:steliart    Stelios L.A. StavrinidesDesign CommunicationsGraphic & Web DesignerPhotography NYIP, PSA----------------------------------Woodworking3D CAD designsPhotographyScuba Diving (PADI Assistant Instructor)Iconography PaintingEsoteric Studies

Intro:  Bench Lathe 3 in 1 (Lathe - Sander - Grinder/Sharpener)Introduction: When I submitted my instructable "The smallest workshop in the world" a lathe latter addition was presented as an add-on idea to the tool bench, after someone askedme... "Where is the lathe?"

At first I did a quick sketch lathe idea using a power drill for motor, just to show that a lathe was possible also to be added on that tool bench.But then my visitors started trying to perfect the design idea with many positive comments.It was on popular demand that I ended up sketching a woodworking Bench Lathe, as many visitors to my instructable where asking me for it.

There positive comments, feedback and rating votes, encourage me to publish this"Bench Lathe 3 in 1" instructable.

So I started a research on how a lathe should be. I search for different ideas, for various parts of it and studying the mechanisms of other lathes in the market, as Iwonted the bench lathe to be completely made out wood.

I was not ready to build the real thing as I have not the time at this moment, but I decided to give a workable 3D design that is easy to follow and to be build.

There are no exact measurements in the drawings firstly because I work in metric system and we all know how frustrating is to convert it to imperial (fractions do notmuch up, plywood thickness is 18mm for me but in U.S. is 19mm 3/4), and secondary because you can build it to measure your own space and needs. I will providethough the general measurements of this project.I think that the 3D images I provide with the instructable are detailed enough to give you an accurate account of what is going on, how to build it and how to change itsmeasurements.

The trick as I see it, is to find the right components that fit together to build the lathe's headstock turning mechanism. It should not be expensive, so everyone can build it,should be very safe, be solid and sturdy and with very good turning results.

I ended up designing a lathe that has also some add-ons like a faceplate to turn bowls. Has also the versatility to be used as a grinder/sharpening station and as asanding station with its attachable disk sander and table.The lathe I design is big enough to turn an 80cm (31") leg on it, but it could easily be extended either with a bed extension or by simply build longer.

So here it's what I came up with, I hope you enjoy and be inspired from the instructable.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Step 1: Materials & Hardware:The materials I used for this lathe are very basic:

Mainly everything is made out of plywood always 18mm (3/4") thickness, except some parts that you could replace it with hardwood like the headstock, and 2 pieces of2X2 pine wood stock for the lathe bed (base), the 2X2 stock length can be determent from  the length of the lathe you decide to build.

Hardware:

1 Bench grinder2 Pulleys (3 step)1 Belt1 Double ended mandrel2 Bearings2 Stop collars1 Drill chuck1 Headstock spur drive center1 Plate flange1 On/off switch with box2 Hinges2 T-tracks6 Flanged boltsVarious size woodscrewsThreaded inserts2 Screw down threaded insertsBolts / washers / nuts / butterfly nuts / t-nuts1 Threaded rod1 Coupling nut2 Acrylic guards1 Steel wear plate

Image Notes1. Faceplate & Sanding Station Attachments

Step 2: The Lathe Bed:The lathe bed has an important function and it should give a solid/strong foundation to the moving parts of the lathe.

Mainly the bed is made of 1sheet of plywood 50x120cm (20"X47") and on top of it glued at edge there's another sheet of plywood 25cm (10") sandwiched together.After you glue and screw (countersink) the two pieces together you can make that cut with the 45 degrees angle cut to its end (if you want) which serves for clampingpurposes only. If you can, it will be best to bolt it down on your bench, it will keep it from walking when large stock is turning.

2 5X5cm (2"X2") pine wood stock 120cm (47") in length is the lathe's body. The stock is flash with that cut of the base and they are 5cm (2") apart.

2 T-tracks sit in the center of each stock and there length goes up to the headstock chuck. So according to the headstock turning mechanism you will use you shouldcalculate its length before deciding the t-tracks length. The ones I use in the drawing have a standard length of 90cm (3 foot) long.If you don't want to spend money on the t-tracks you can use aluminum curtain tracks. I have tried them out and they work just fine.

In case you want the lathe to be smaller and have an extension attached to it when you need more length, is very possible.Make another bed with its 2X2 stock and t-tracks and attach it side by side to the existing lathe bed. You can also hold it down with couple of clamps as well as join thestocks between them with an iron plate from both sides.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Step 3: The Lathe's Motor:As I have said before, everything depends on what hardware you can get you hands on, so you plan the turning mechanism according to what hardware and motor youwill use.

In this case for a motor I used a simple and inexpensive 1/4 HP bench grinder (even though I would recommend a 1/2 HP low speed motor 1750 RPM). The grinder hasabout 3000 RPM so we will need to lower the speed down.To use the grinder you would need step pulleys of unequal sizes so that the largest step on the grinder pulley would be about the same diameter as the smallest step onthe headstock pulley, or you would need another set of pulleys to reduce the speed down.

3 step pulleys of unequal size could give you about the following RPM combinations, and as you can see are quite good for turning.

Motor Pulley                       Headstock Pulley                       Arppox. RPM

small                                            large                                                700small                                            medium                                        1000medium                                       large                                              1250large                                             large                                              1725large                                             medium                                        2500medium                                       small                                             3000large                                             small                                             4150

Before you buy any of these (motor, pulleys or both) ask for advise from your hardware dealer about the speed they will run. Your want about 3000 RPM as a maximumspeed and to be able to go down as low as 500 RPM (see last step of instructable about an alternative solution).

Mount the grinder with some bolts onto a piece of plywood and only after you will complete the headstock turning mechanism you will screw it down to the lathe's bedwith couple of strong hinges. Make sure you leave room for the hinges to workup and down and cut it 6mm (1/4") shorter from the edge for the guard to sit.

The second pulley (which is about double the size of the motor's pulley) will go on the headstock mandrel and the two of them will turn (towards you) with a belt. The beltstension is achieved from the free pull of the motor.

Finally I attached an in-line on/off switch with a protection cup and its box on the face of the bed for easy access. Any switch type will do as far as you know how to wire it.

Basically what you do is to remove the grinders wire plug and attach it to the IN switch, then you put another wire leaving the OUT switch and with a plug to its end toconnect to the socket.

If you are not comfortable doing so please consult a licensed electrician.

Image Notes1. The largest step of the grinder's pulley is about the same size with the smalleststep of the headstock's pulley.

Image Notes1. The belts tension is achieved from the free pull of the motor.

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Image Notes1. safety on/off switch with box

Step 4: The Lathe's Headstock:The headstock is the piece that will hold the turning mechanism (hardware) and support the work-piece of the lathe, so it should be very strong.

The thickness of the headstock is according to the mandrel and pulley size you will use.It can be made of thick pieces of hardwood (if you can get your hands on any) or it could be two pieces of plywood stack together which is also makes it very strong.

My design of the headstock starts with thick T shape hardwood which is 15cm (6" wide), 16.5cm (6.5") high and deep enough to take the mandrel base. You will need twoidentical pieces of these. Then there's the middle piece which has the same length but shorter so that can give allot of clearance to the pulley and the belt, and itsthickness is bigger than the pulley's steps. These 3 major wood pieces can be also be made from plywood. Everything needs to be well glued and screwed togethersolidly.

The headstock mechanism consists from a double ended mandrel with its bearings, a shaft and its locking collars, the second 3 step pulley which goes on the center butfacing to the opposite direction from the motor's pulley, and a strong drill chuck at the end.Now all these have to be found from your local suppliers or the internet and match together before you can build the headstock.

The mandrel is to be fastened down with 4 bolts and nuts into threaded inserts that will go into the wood.

In case you are wondering if you can avoid the mandrel, then I will say that you could make the two edged pieces taller like two towers, drill holes to accommodate tightlythe two bearings (bearings need to fit the bolt diameter), use a long bolt without threats to go through the 2 tower pieces (needs to fit the pulley opening), file the bolt flatto the areas that the locking collars will be tight down, and mount the drill chuck to its end.

Image Notes1. Stop collar2. Spur Drive Center

Image Notes1. To hold the mandrel down use bolts & washers screwed into threaded inserts

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Step 5: The Lathe's Tailstock:Now for the tailstock you can only used plywood sandwiched together (I used a hardwood center piece). The different color pieces you see in the pictures are only forvisual clearance purposes only.

The 3/4 plywood pieces overall dimensions are 15cm (6") wide, 21.5cm (8.5") tall, and have the same T-shape cut as the headstock. The angle cut for the two edgedpieces is from 22-25 degrees not important. There's a hole on the top that its center is in perfect alignment with the drill chuck's center. Two screw-down threaded insertsare used here for better security, one on each tower. A threaded rod goes through them with its end grinded to a fine point which will help to hold the work-piece in place.The rod is about 180cm (7") long.

At the front end of the rod there's a Coupling nut screwed on, that prevents the turning work-piece to sleep deeper into the point, and also acts as an outer locking stop. Inthe centre of the threaded rod and between the tailstock's towers there's locking stop nut that can be tight to the left side.

In the inside face of the two towers there's another plywood piece which is identical to the tower but without the angle area. The center width of that piece is 5cm (2") sowhen you look at it "stand alone" has a cross shape. These two pieces have also the same matching hole on the top. I strongly recommend that you drill the tower's holesat the same time on your drill press.

The center wood piece of the tailstock, is either a piece of hardwood or two 3/4 plywood glued together and cut in a cross shape. The height is not important as long asyou leave space to the rod locking nut to be tightened with a wrench. The center wood also provides enough area for the two hold down knobs to hold the tailstock frommoving.

Finally at the end of the threaded rod I made a simple hand-wheel to move the rod in and out thus holding the turning piece tight in its position. The hand-wheel is madeout of two plywood sandwiched circles 12cm (4.7") diameter, has a wooden dowel handle and is threaded on to the rod with the help of countersink nuts and epoxy. 

Image Notes1. Screw down threaded inserts are in both outer sides

Image Notes1. Coupling nut with the threaded rod's pointed end coming out

Image Notes1. homemade gnobs made with t-nuts and plywood2. Stop locking nut

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Step 6: Belt & Grinder Guards:Safety it's always a factor to consider so a couple of guards come in place.

First a belt guard which is very simple to find or make. The guard is made from acrylic, just a simple shape and screwed in the front with 2 butterfly bolt nuts on threadedinserts, any sign maker or advertising gifts shop can make this for you very easily.The dimensions for the one on the design are 45X17X27cm (17.7X6.7X10.6") these are not critical as long as it fits in front and sits at the back edge also have in mindthat the back side is a plywood's height shorter.

The grinder guard is just a round open top box (a small bucket will do) which can be screwed somewhere on the grinder wheel metal protective guard. This area must beprotected because the grinding wheel will always spin when the lathe is in operation.

Step 7: Tool Rest:A modular toll rest is the solution for this design here.This tools rest was featured in shop-notes magazine and suits our purpose fine here (no reason re-inventing the wheel again).The tool rest is made in 6 parts and it can give you the flexibility you need to position it in the right position.

For this case here I have positioned the tool rest steel wear plate height to be 6mm (1/4") below the lathes center line. You could adjust this if you want by adding somethin layers of 3mm (1/8") hardwood between the tools rest base and the 2X2's.

Note: It's better, when you cut these pieces, to cut them a little bigger, and trim them down to their final length as you go, better than the other way around.

Toll Rest Parts:

1) Tool-Rest Base2) Pivot Arm3) Tool Support Base4) Filler block5) Tool Support Arm6) Steel Wear Plate

So all pieces of the tool rest are 18mm (3/4") plywood:

1) First we have the tool-rest base which is 10X30cm (2"X12") and has a groove in its center for free movement on the t-track bolts. Wing nuts and washers help to holdthe tool-rest down in position.Its outer site is cut in half circle to prevent scratching yourself. As you make this base take the time and make also a few 3mm (1/8") thickness identical shims to use forheight adjustment. There's a hole at the front edge with a bolt and a wing-nut and washer to hold the pivot arm.

2) Second piece is the pivot arm with dimension 7.5X10cm (3X4"). The piece is rounded at both ends and has a hole at its TOP outer end, a countersink t-nut to secure iton the base. Another hole is about 6.5cm (2.5") in from the outer end, with a countersink t-nut at the BOTTOM to hold the tool support base.

3) Third piece is the tool support base. Its dimensions 6.6x5cm (2.5x2") rounded only at the outer edge while the inner edge remains straight. It has a hole near the outeredge for the bolt and wing-nut and washer to secure it on the pivot arm.

4) The filler block is just 18x18mm (3/4X3/4") hardwood, cut at 45 degrees to give extra support to the tool support arm. You can replace this block with a metal angle ifyou want.

5) The tool support arm is a critical piece. Its overall dimensions are 10x20cm (4X8"), and it sits flash with the bottom of its base. Glued and screwed for maximumstrength to its base, it has a big curve cut which starts from the top of the base, and ends 3cm (1 1/4") from its top. There's a 30 degrees miter cut off the top to mount thesteel wear plate. If you want the tool support to be wider that's your personal choice.

6) The steel wear plate is a 3mm (1/8") thick plate with four countersink screw holes, and its purpose is to prevent tear and wear as you turn. Please make sure to fileround and sand smooth all edges to allow an easy slight movement of your turning chisels.

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Step 8: Faceplate Attachment:The faceplate attachment is used for mounting thick stock for bowl turning. It's easy to make and has 3 parts:

1)  Plate Flange2)  Body Neck3)  Mounting Plate

1) The plate flange is nothing more than a circular plate with an arbor for mounting the faceplate to the chuck. You can find one to your local hardware supplier. I wouldnot recommend trying doing one yourself unless you have access to the tools required and the knowledge, it needs to be perfectly centered and without any play.

2) The body neck is very simple you can cut 2 or 3 plywood circles 6cm (2 1/3") in diameter and glue them together and screw them on the plate flange from the backside of the flange.

3) The mounting plate has diameter of 13cm (5") and it's made of plywood, has all around holes for mounting the work-piece to the faceplate and four holes formounting the plate to the neck. Glue and screw the plate to the neck and you are ready to turn your first bowl.

Image Notes1. Plate Flange

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Step 9: Sanding Disk & Sanding Table Attachment:The sanding Disk:

Now that you have built a faceplate, you know exactly the procedure on how to build the sanding disk because is exactly the same. The disk has minor changes from thefaceplate, its body neck has a 7.5cm (3") diameter and the disk plate is bigger 20cm (8").You need to keep the 4 mounting holes to glue and screw it with the neck.Attach an abrasive sanding disk to it, and it's ready to go.

The sanding table attachment:

The sanding table is made out of 7 pieces of plywood and 1 piece of 2X2 pine stock.

A square 15X15cm (6X6") base piece with two knobs aligned with the t-track below to hold it tight on the lathe bed.Attached under the base piece the 2X2 pinewood stock that will keep the table centered.Two 15x11cm (6x4 1/3") outer walls and two 15X9.2cm (6X3.58") inner walls form the body of the table.

One top piece of plywood 25X25cm (10X10") with a miter track grooving (to accept a miter gauge or a featherboard) in its center serves as the sanding table's top, it isimportant that the grooving is parallel to the sanding disk, so use a square to position the table top before you screw it.

Also it will be nice if the top has a melamine sheet glued over it for easy dust off.

Image Notes1. Miter track to accept a miter gauge or a featherboard

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Step 10: Bench Grinder or Sharpening Station:By using the bench grinder as the lathe's motor it has its advantages.While the one side of the grinder is used for the pulley drive, the other site it's free to be used either as a normal grinder with a grinding stone wheel or you can replacethe stone wheel with an aluminium oxide 'white' grinding wheel and use it as a chisel sharpening station.

Image Notes1. Aluminium Oxide 'White' Grinding Wheel

Step 11: An Alternative Solution:I don't know about you people, but me here where I am, I will have a problem to find the tailstock hardware to put the lathe in motion, and if ever I decide to build thislathe I will have to face a very big dilemma.

One is finding things that will not match exactly, and I will have to ask help from a professional mechanic to fit everything together. That will be very-very costly, timeconsuming, and it's not worth it.

The other option I have is to import all the necessary hardware and motor from overseas, that also will be costly, so I might as well buy a new factory made lathe andsave myself the trouble.

But there's a third solution which I thought about, and I believe it just might do the trick for me or you.Do you remember those inexpensive Chinese drill presses that you can buy for about 60 dollars?Maybe if you can get your hands on a second hand drill press?That will be fantastic.

You will be wondering what to do with the drill press... well a drill press has most of the necessary and matching hardware we need to build the lathe.It has a strong 400W motor (1/2HP), the two pulleys with the belt, has a strong shaft, bearings and a chuck, so you have almost everything you need and they matchtogether.Since the pulleys have 5 steps they give the following speeds:2650 - 1650 - 1220 - 850 - 580 RPM more than enough speed choices for lathe turning.

So there you have it,a 3 in 1 Bench Lathe - Sander - Grinder/SharpenerI hope you enjoy the instructable and found it interesting.

If you decide to build it, it will be nice to post some picture and tell us your experience in building and turning with it.

All comments, suggestions, information and ideas are welcome

Stelios L.A. StavrinidesNicosia - Cyprus

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

Image Notes1. Belt and 1st 5 step pulley2. Motor with 2nd 5 step pulley3. Chuck, Shaft & Bearings

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Comments

50 comments Add Comment view all 53 comments

 Dumchicken says:  Jan 31, 2011. 12:46 PM  REPLYdid you make that in google sketch up

 steliart says:  Jan 31, 2011. 1:45 PM  REPLYYes V.7pro

 Dumchicken says:  Feb 11, 2011. 3:37 PM  REPLYcool!

 underground carpenter says:  Jan 24, 2011. 2:05 PM  REPLYAlthough I already have 4 lathes, this project is very tempting to build, just to show off at my woodturning club. "Hey, Donna, bet my whole lathe cost lessthan your Oneway drive spur."

 steliart says:  Jan 24, 2011. 2:25 PM  REPLYI would love to see my design build, I will apreciate a couple of photos when your done.Thank you for visiting

 mr. clean says:  Sep 28, 2010. 7:26 PM  REPLYso how well does the dead center work instead of a live center

 steliart says:  Oct 1, 2010. 3:25 AM  REPLYWell both could work pretty good. Live center It allows higher turning speeds without the need for separate lubrication, and also greater clampingpressures. while a dead center produces friction between the workpiece and center, due to the rotation of the workpiece, therefore Lubrication isrequired.You could made some changes to the design and mount another chuck on the tail and that will give you the possibility to change from dead to live center.

Thank you

 kleinjahr says:  Sep 30, 2010. 7:55 PM  REPLYYet another nice idea, well done. I didn't notice any means to lock the tail center in position, vibration can loosen it. Causes all kinds of problems. I'm notreally fond of the position of the motor. Personal preference is to have it out of the way. Though I have seen commercial lathes with the motor in thatposition.You suggestion about using a drill press is good, I've seen where someone did it. Sorry can't remember where I saw it, maybe it was another 'ible.

 steliart says:  Oct 1, 2010. 3:07 AM  REPLYYou mas have missed it. Look at stage 5 again (all pictures), there is a stop locking nut that keeps it in position. As for the motor, well you can modify thedesign and have it where you feel more safe with it, i.e you can make the lathe body longer and have the motor's pulleys facing inn and reverce the spin.

Thnks for visiting and comments

 rapidprototyping says:  Jul 25, 2010. 1:48 PM  REPLYsome motors will work with motor speed controlers. this is i belive a reostate essentiall you dial in the speed you want from high speed to low speed I hadone for my dremel tool. Motor speed controlers are available for routers as well so if that will work for some one with a router. I bought one combo mini lath atgood will it ran for while then motor desenegrated so i took it apart and built similat pully arrangment to replace motor after finding the machine tool compaywent out of business. the usable parts or a similatr lathe are the shaft bearing face plate tail stock and tool rest. always wear full face mask when turning onlathe.

 steliart says:  Aug 26, 2010. 8:50 AM  REPLYI believe there many other ways to do a lathe and controll its speed. I just try to show one way of doing a low cost lathe. I am not a lathe expert put Ibeleive that the type of speed controll you will need it depence on the motor you will use. As for the full face mask... I totaly agree with you. Thanks

 profpat says:  Jul 8, 2010. 12:33 PM  REPLYvery nice and well designed!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

 steliart says:  Jul 9, 2010. 7:05 AM  REPLYThank you

 Thefsxmad says:  Jun 29, 2010. 4:09 AM  REPLYHi. I found your instructable interesting and very useful as I am attempting to build my own lathe from wood. Seeing as you made the model in GoogleSketchUp I would find it really useful if you uploaded it to the 3D warehouse and posted the link to it. Thanks.

 steliart says:  Jul 9, 2010. 7:05 AM  REPLYHope this instructable will help you on your project. Good luck & thanks for visiting

 tnek says:  May 12, 2010. 9:13 AM  REPLY Thanks for these ideas!!!  Your small workshop has had me looking at everything in a new light. I was about halfway done with building my new workshophere on the farm and these have given me great ideas to recycle old tools and equipment.  I now have additional funds to add a vacuum dust collectionsystem!

 steliart says:  May 28, 2010. 3:10 AM  REPLY Since you were thinking of a vacuum dust collector check his out

http://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-Cyclone-Bucket-Dust-Collector/

 tnek says:  May 28, 2010. 7:13 AM  REPLYGreat idea!  Thanks! That gives me a great idea for recycling my dad's old shop vac.  It'll take some modifications, but the fittings would already be properly sized for me. I can pull the fittings out of the top of the old vac and mount them into the top bucket.  Then remove the motor and patch the lid.  The old vac haswheels so I won't need to build a cart.

 steliart says:  May 12, 2010. 1:36 PM  REPLYGlad that I could inspire you.Thanks

 stampST says:  May 28, 2010. 3:04 AM  REPLYVery clear cut intstructable plan. Maybe the best I have seen

 steliart says:  May 28, 2010. 3:25 AM  REPLY Thank you very much

 spiderboy says:  May 28, 2010. 2:13 AM  REPLY Cool design, is it difficult to learn to do something like this?

 steliart says:  May 28, 2010. 3:24 AM  REPLY Well I cannot answer if it's difficult or not, I think is up to the individual.SketchUp has a good tutorial to get you started and even further.Thank you

 tarataz says:  May 27, 2010. 5:15 PM  REPLYLike your small workshop, your bench lathe design is amazing. I am not a woodworker but I know design and understand functionality of one.My husband would love this.

* * * * *Thank you

 steliart says:  May 28, 2010. 1:27 AM  REPLYThanks for visiting and taking the time to comment

 slas73 says:  May 26, 2010. 2:42 AM  REPLYBest diy lathe plans I’ve seen.I’m gonna try build one.Thanx

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

 steliart says:  May 26, 2010. 9:51 AM  REPLY Thank you,If you decide to build one post a picture here for us.Thanks

 budabob07 says:  May 24, 2010. 2:31 PM  REPLYwow this is amazing.  i wish i had one of these for my workshop.  BTW really nice job with the sketchup

 steliart says:  May 24, 2010. 4:44 PM  REPLYThank you very much.I believe you cam build one, give it a try :-) 

 steliart says:  May 20, 2010. 4:27 PM  REPLYI have added a new instructable about a mini cyclone bucket dust collectorCheck it out

http://www.instructables.com/id/Mini-Cyclone-Bucket-Dust-Collector/

 M.C. Langer says:  May 10, 2010. 7:14 AM  REPLYMan, you are good!!!!

 Phil B says:  May 4, 2010. 7:07 AM  REPLYIt appears you have covered everything and is very well done.  What program did you use to draw the images?

Thank you.

 steliart says:  May 4, 2010. 7:21 AM  REPLYHi Phil nice to see you again,Thank you I am glad you liked it. The software I used it is the Google SketchUp Pro version 7.1 which I am sure you know about because I see that youare using it also.

 Phil B says:  May 4, 2010. 8:30 AM  REPLYI was afraid you would say you are using Google Sketchup.  I have used it only a few times for very basic things.  Your creations with it are muchmore skillful and much more complex.  You have obviously spent more time learning it and practicing with it. 

 steliart says:  May 4, 2010. 9:15 AM  REPLYI am using it since last March so it's only about a year, and since then I have play allot with it.

Funny thing you have mention this Phil, because it was your project "Get More from Your Circular Saw" which I found on Google and that broughtme into the Instructables website.

It was my first design with SketchUp with some modifications off-course and I even ended up building that platform for my circular saw which isnow mounted under my tool bench.

It served me quide well for a while, and then I decided that I needed more, so I came up starting to build that multiple power tools bench and thetool cabinet.Unfortunately I had to dismantle the platform to use the materials on other things and I forgotten to even take a picture of it :-(... but I still have theoriginal SketchUp design. So you see nothing is a by accident you have some credit for me being here today. As for the skills well I am a professional graphic/web designer so these kind of software are a bit easier for me to learn.

If ever you need some help with it, please just drop me a line.

 Phil B says:  May 4, 2010. 10:23 AM  REPLYThank you for the offer of assistance with Sketch Up.  I have viewed some of Google's tutorials for Sketch Up and they are very helpful.  Myproblem is that I use it so infrequently I forget what I have seen and practiced.  I did have a year of mechanical drawing with "T"-squares,triangles, scales, dividers, and compasses; but that was 45 years ago.  

 steliart says:  May 4, 2010. 10:58 AM  REPLYWell Phil if you ever need drawing I'm here just ask for it

 Phil B says:  May 4, 2010. 11:09 AM  REPLYThank you very much.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

 kingalexl says:  May 6, 2010. 4:08 PM  REPLY I'm downloading Google sketchup now. I'm gonna check it out. I've used Solidworks before. Is it similar?

 steliart says:  May 6, 2010. 8:19 PM  REPLYOk both are 3D CAD software, but solidworks allows allot of integration and I believe is much more complex. I think itwould suite better a mechanical engineer designer. Me, on the other hand I need a more simple, and fast version of a CADsoftware as the woodworking models I design are not so complex as a cars engine for example is.

 kingalexl says:  May 9, 2010. 6:14 PM  REPLY Sketchup is confusing. I think I'm gonna watch some tutorial videos... I find Solidworks a lot easier... more than likelybecause I'm used to it. I use it for a class I'm doing in school with a CNC router.

 magnoliasouth says:  May 8, 2010. 10:40 AM  REPLY As always, excellent instructable. Thanks so much for the response on your other one. You really are amazing. 

I see a great engineering career! :)

 steliart says:  May 8, 2010. 11:22 AM  REPLYThank you very much.

Career in engineering in my age? Wow! that's a good one LOL  

 charles543 says:  May 8, 2010. 7:56 AM  REPLY A grinder is too fast for a power source for a wood lathe using identical step pulleys.  A grinder runs around 3000 rpm or more (in the US).  This is about themaximum speed you want for a lathe, and you want to be able to get it down to about 500 rpm.  With equal pulleys your motor speed would be about themidrange of your lathe speeds making the top speed about 6000 rpm.  To use the grinder you would need step pulleys of unequal sizes so that the largeststep on the grinder pulley would be about the same diameter as the smallest step on the headstock pulley, or you would need another set of pulleys toreduce the speed down.

 steliart says:  May 8, 2010. 8:45 AM  REPLYThank you very much for your points. I am not a lathe expert, and this is why at the end of my instructable I welcome every comment, suggestions, information and ideas.Also this is why I was saying in my instructable that the difficult part is to find the right hardware for this project. The information I found on this, it used a 1/4 HP (1725 RPM) and identical 3 step pulleys and by crossing the belt you get speeds from 4150 to 700 RPM.My grinder is double that speed as you said 2950, so yes it seems that it needs to be reduced either with unequal size of pulleys or another set of pulleysto reduce the speed down. I will look into this. Anyway because I had my doubts, this is why I came up with the drill press dismantling idea which will give you speeds from 2650 to 580 RPM which Ibelieve might be a good solution to the hardware problem.I will have to correct the instructable according to your remarks. Thank you very much for the constructive comments on this project

 kelseymh says:  May 4, 2010. 9:51 AM  REPLYThis is an outstanding writeup.  The drawings are extraordinary (I had no idea SketchUp could do this level of detail), as is the written documentation.  Iespecially appreciate your analysis of why this is more suitable for a design-drawing I'ble rather than a "here's what I did" stack of photos.

 steliart says:  May 4, 2010. 10:40 AM  REPLYThank you for your comments.What you say is very true, many times real photos due to the angle or background can be very misleading,On the other hand a drawing because its focal of attention is directly onto the subject in hand is much more clearer and easy to understand.

Besides doesn’t everyone go and buy woodworking plans for X? amount of money only to get 2D drawings which at the end need to be modified to yourown dimension or measuring system? Even if I had build the lathe, the 3D drawings can show and explain much better what you need to know. This is way I presented this instructable the wayI did.

 kelseymh says:  May 4, 2010. 10:52 AM  REPLYYes, exactly.  And there are many examples here where I wish the author would provide a clear drawing, rather than a photo cluttered with extraunnecessarily "information." 

However, one of the conventions here on Instructables is to show at least the actual completed project, perhaps in use, perhaps just sitting in a placeof pride in the workshop.  I hope, that if you have the opportunity to build this design for yourself, that you'll add one or two pictures of your version tothis I'ble.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Bench-Lathe-3-in-1-Lathe-Sander-GrinderSharp/

 steliart says:  May 4, 2010. 11:05 AM  REPLYThat's for sure, I will post pictures in the I'ble if I built it.Also as I say in the end of the I'ble if anyone else builds it and send me photos I will also post them on the I'ble with a credit to his name.This could be easily be a project that everyone who wants can participate.

 thatoneguydavid says:  May 4, 2010. 10:30 AM  REPLYgreat job.  Is this just a theoretical project, or have you built it?  i see from your other wright up that you have made quite a little shop.

i have been using google sketch up for quite some time as well, but i have not purchased the "pro" version.  can you tell me what the pro version offers thatthe standard does not?  (is it more than just the ability to export documents?)

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