Sustainable Fashion..A means for social

transformation

Submitted by: Neha AroraM-Tech,, 3rd sem/FTdesigner_neha1106@yahoo.com

What is sustainability

To "Sustainable" means "to maintain" or "to support“. It interfaces with economics through the social &

environmentwhere social aspects including cultural, health-related and

financial aspects are integrated. Moving towards sustainability is also a social challenge that

entails international and national law, urban planning and transport, local and individual lifestyles and ethical consumers.

The considerations relating to fashion includes: - environmental protection, - social justice, - economic fairness - cultural vitality.

Sustainable development

“sustainable development” that meets the needs of the

present, without compromising the ability of future generations.

Objective

The sustainability objective are: - to promote the production (i.e.

development of less polluting, more resource efficient products, processes and services)

- consumption of environment friendly textiles

- reduce poverty and improve the quality of life

- for artisans in the textile and craft sectors.

Designers

Stella McCartneyAmour VertEdunStewart BrownShalom HarlowSummer Rayne Oakes

Organizations

“National Association of Sustainable Fashion” is one of those organizations.

Its purpose is to assist entrepreneurs with growing fashion related businesses that create social change and respect the environment.

The organization’s mission is to create social change through design and fashion related businesses by providing education, training and programs that are transformative to the industry and to cultivate collaboration, sustainability and economic growth.

Karm Marg

Karm Marg is a non-governmental organization that runs a home

The focus group for karm marg disadvantaged children and young adults to live, study, and play together in and also the economically backward rural women from villages.

Eventually the products made by them are sold under the brand ‘jugaad’.

Jugaad products

Most of the products utilize as much recycled and reused raw material as possible.

This also helps, to a great extent, in cutting costs, buying new materials, besides these products being a source of income for the home.

- Also for environment-friendly practises - use discarded plastic/glass bottles and

tires as building construction material, - and the edaevour to convert the home to

a solar- powder one.

Green the Gap: waste made wonderful

‘Green the Gap is all about Recycling:

- Designing the product,

- Choosing waste material to be used & sourcing of the raw material.

Tsunamika

successful and fulfilling socially  responsible communication design intervention for Upasana.

Tsunamikas have never been bought or sold.

They are shared, unconditionally; they are gifts of love and friendship.

There are some other waste materials that conserve uses for its products.

Tsunamika

Rubber tube: soft and durable material, the rubber obtained from old truct tyre inner tube, which would otherwise be wasted, Is an alternative to traditional bag materials like leather, Once it is washed, it is cut into required shape or pattern to make bags.

Also transforming the worn out tyres into piece of furniture like high stools, centre tables, sofa sets, office chairs, clocks, mirrors and painting frames.

Conserve

Denim: conserve offers its patrons to send their old pair of jeans that may have holes in the knees, but are otherwise fine, to be converted into bags.

Seat belts: rolls of seat belt material lying un-used with manufacturers are woven together into material for bags.

Goonj

Goonj collects old clothes and other needed materials from urban homes, and uses them as resources for poor.

Today Goonj works across - 21 states - 250 partner groups. - 10 offices - 150 full time people - thousands of volunteers. Dealing with 100 tons of material each month.Goonj has an annual budget of 3-4 crore INR.declared ‘Indian NGO of the Year’, Also prestigious Development Market place award

from the World Bank on making a sanitary napkin out of waste cloths.

People Tree

People tree is a design, production and retail centre,

which combines a sense of social purpose & ecological responsibility with the spirit of collective talent they posses in the skill of stitching and embroidery of cloth.

Attractive path of work from small pieces of waste clothes, making different size quilts and sheets are excellent examples of their traditional art and crafts from Sindh and Multan.

In this manner the women’s re able to earn along with performing their household tasks.

Thunk in India :Re Think Waste

Thunk’s vision is to innovate with everyday waste materials, whether the materials are from household , industrial or natural waste.

Domestic market research for Eco-friendly & sustainable Textile product (AIACA)

The All India Artisans and Craft workers Welfare Association (AIACA)

- a not-for profit organization - working for the crafts sector in India.- the project seeks to promote sustainable production and

consumption practices in the textile and craft sector in India.

- to promote the production (i.e. development of less polluting and more resource efficient products, processes and services)

- and consumption of environment-friendly textiles to reduce poverty - and improve the quality of life for artisans in the textile

and craft sectors.

Sustainability Issues in Fashion

Labour Water Waste

CO2:

CO2:

Impacts

For example:1 kg of cotton requires 11,000

litres of water.It takes 2,600 litres of fresh water

for 1 cotton t-shirt.Textile waste is approximately 5%

of landfill space worldwide.15% of fabric intended for clothing

ends up on the cutting room floor 10% of total global impact is

associated with the global textile industry

3 E’s of Sustainability

A diagram indicating the relationship between the three pillars of sustainability

3 E’s of Sustainability

  Environmental Sustainability– ability to maintain the

valued qualities of the physical environment. It refers to preservation of the environment & natural resources.

Social Sustainability- important aspect of sustainable development. It encompasses human rights, labor rights, and corporate governance.

Economic Sustainability - This is about achieving economic growth along with ensuring the improvement in quality of life and the environment.

1. Environmental Sustainability

To manage wastes and recycle these: - especially water - reduce pollution For example:

Electrical boiler replaced diesel boiler in Classic Jeans unit.Heavy oil replaced diesel in the laundry unit.60% of fresh water replaced by recycled water.

Corporate Responsibility

Organic clothingRecyling clothingReducing AllergensReducing Toxic ChemicalsOrganic Feels GoodSustainability reduces landfill wasteRequires reducing manufacturing &

operational waste & pollutionMeans becoming energy efficient

Material used:

Natural fibersProtein basedOrganic fibresRecycled fibers and fabrics.

What does the consumer want?

2009-10(%) 2013-14 (%)Fit 95 98Price 93 94Style 86 88Color 87 87Brand 52 47Made in USA 50 57Eco friendly 45 50

Source: Lifestyle Monitor survey

Patagonia ClothingIn 1993, first company ,used recycled materials in their products.

Dunlop Wellington boots are made from polyurethane, PVC, and rubber. a line of recycled boots.

• Freitag co. Reuses truck seats

• inner tubes• seat belts

Peter Opsvik designed Tripp Trapp chair to grow with the child, increasing the effective lifetime of the chair.

made with laundry bags

made with cans, bottle tops and cardboard boxes.

Baseball Dress, made from 26 nylon baseball jackets.

Final Message on Green Design

This is hard.This is important.This is our responsibility.This is a great opportunity…

• for businesses and entrepreneurs• for scientists, engineers, and designers

• for researchers

Standards which are follow in sustainability,,,,…

Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

• GOTS dedicated specifically: - for Fiber & Textile Handling

and production. - The aim of the standard is to

ensure organic status of textiles,

- from harvesting of the raw materials.

ECO FLOWER (EU)

It covers 19 categories of everyday consumer products, with the exception of foodstuffs.

for example - eco-labels for textiles - paints - refrigerators - detergents - PCs - televisions - fertilizers - environmentally-friendly clothing - pesticide-free textiles - biodegradable dyes, - production processes

Organic Trade Association

OTA is a membership-based business association that focuses on the organic business community in North America. Its mission:

- to promote and protect the growth of organic trade - to benefit the environment, farmers, - and the public and the economy since 1985.

Textile Recycling for Aid and International Development (TRAID)

TRAID launched before 10 years with a mission:

- clothes reuse/recycling - activities and its run in

the UK.

bluesign

It is also a independent environmental standard for the textile industry.

‘Blue sign’ works for the whole textile ‘food chain’ from:

- raw materials through yarns, - dyes, and additives, - through to finished fabrics - zippers, fasteners, & other trims.

2. Social Accountability/Ethics of sustainability

Social Conditions

Social Conditions

Introduction

SA 8000 is a standard of international level which encourages:

- the companies to develop, - maintain,& adopt socially acceptable

workplace practices. This standard can be used for compliance of a

workplace and also for human rights.

The SA8000 System and The Standard

SA8000’s acceptance is growing because: - companies recognize the benefits of

this system, - workers,& management systems needed to improve workplace conditions.

In addition to the SAI Board Members, a broad range of NGOs and trade unions has given valuable comments to greatly improve the effectiveness of the SA8000 system.

Social accountability has 9 core areas:

I. Child labourII. Forced labourIII. Health and safetyIV. CompensationV. Working hoursVI. DiscriminationVII.DisciplineVIII. Free association and collective bargainingIX. Management systems

1. Child labour Child labour is a universal problem. At present the number of working children in the world ranges

between 100 and 200 million according to the ILO. India is the country with the largest number of working

children. There are no up-to-date and generally accepted statistics on

child labour in India. Official estimates vary between 17 million and 44 million child

labourers under 18 years of age. Estimates made by respected NGOs range between 55 million

and over 100 million.

Distinction between 'child labour‘&'child work'

Child labour- means that the child is being forced to carry out the full-time work of adults.

Child work- means that the child has time for play and education besides work.

Legal Requirements For Child Labour

Legal/Code – Compliance on Child Labour Standards Proof of Age Documentation / Other Means of Age verification Governments Permits and Parental Consent Documentation Employment of Young Workers (those between the minimum working age and the age of 18 years) Hazardous work for Young Workers Young Worker

Identification System

Causes

Child labour is cheaper than adult labour. Inefficiency existing primary education

facilities.Do not demand social security benefits.

2. FORCED AND COMPULSORY LABOUR Criteria:

2.1 The company shall not engage in or support the use of forced or compulsory labour as defined in ILO Convention 29.

2.2 Neither the company nor any entity supplying labour to the company shall withhold any part of any personnel’s salary, benefits, property, or documents in order to force such personnel to continue working for the company.

2.3 Personnel shall have the right to leave the workplace premises after completing the standard workday, and be free to terminate their employment.

3. 3. HEALTH AND SAFETY Criteria:

3.1 The company shall provide a safe and healthy workplace environment

3.2 The company shall appoint a senior management representative to be responsible for ensuring a safe and healthy workplace environment for all personnel, and for implementing the Health and Safety elements.

3.3 The company shall provide to personnel on a regular basis effective health and safety instructions, including on-site instruction where needed, job-specific instructions. Such instructions shall be repeated for new and reassigned personnel.

3.4 The company shall provide at its expense appropriate personal protective equipment to personnel. They shall be provide first aid and medical treatment.

3.5 The company shall provide clean toilet facilities, access to drinkable water, sanitary facilities for food storage.

Issue..

5. DISCRIMINATION Criteria:

5.1 The company shall not support discrimination in hiring, remuneration, access to training, promotion, termination, or retirement based on race, national or social origin, caste, birth, religion, disability, gender, family responsibilities, marital status, union membership, political opinions, age, or any other condition that could give rise to discrimination..

6. DISCIPLINARY PRACTICES Criterion:

6.1 The company shall treat all personnelwith dignity and respectshall not engage in or tolerate the punishment

mental or physicalverbal abuse No harsh treatment is allowed.

7. Working Hours

Working time is the period of time that an individual spends at paid occupational labour.

Unpaid labors such as personal housework are not considered part of the working hour or week.

Many countries regulate the work week by law:

- such as minimum daily rest periods, - annual holidays - maximum number of working

hours per week

8.Minimum wages

The wages of employee should be appropriate, fairy distribution to all.

Minimum wage

The minimum wage rate may be fixed at:

Different minimum wage rate may be fixed for:

• Time rate • Different scheduled employments

• Piece rate • Different works in the same employment

• Guaranteed time rate • Children and Adults

• Overtime rate • Different locations

• An hour • Male and female.

• Day -• Month -

9. Management Representative

9.1 The company shall appoint a senior management representative who, irrespective of other responsibilities, shall ensure that the requirements of this standard are met.

Planning and Implementation

9.2 The company shall ensure that the requirements of this standard are understood and implemented at all levels of the organisation. Methods shall include:

a) Clear definition of all parties’ roles, responsibilities, and authority;b) Training of new, reassigned, and/or temporary personnel upon hiring;c) Periodic instruction, training, and awareness programs for existing personnel;d) Continuous monitoring of activities and results effectiveness of systems implemented to meet the company’s policy.

9.3 The company is required to consult the SA8000 Guidance Document for interpretative guidance with respect to this standard.

Control of Suppliers/Subcontractors

9.4 The company shall maintain appropriate

Select and maintain records of suppliers/subcontractors and their performance.

the document in writing appropriate procedures to evaluate

Benefits of SA8000 

Along with humane workplaces, the implementation of SA8000 offers more benefits to workers, companies and others :

Benefits for Workers, Trade Unions and NGOs : Enhanced opportunities to organize trade unions A tool to educate workers about core labour rights Public awareness of companies committed to assuring humane working conditions

Benefits for business: Putting company values into action Enhancing company and brand reputation Improving employee recruitment, retention and performance Better supply chain management and performance

Benefits for Consumers and Investors Clear and credible assurance for ethical purchasing decisions Identification of products made ethically and companies committed to ethical sourcing Broad coverage of product categories and production geography

3.Economic Sustainability

 Economic sustainability is about automatically achieving economic growth along with ensuring the improvement in social accountability, quality of life and the environment.

Conclusions

This PPT has highlighted that a sustainable approach to fashion is, in fact, already here Consumers have a positive and vital role to ensure a sufficient demand for the clothing and a accessories of these pioneering brands, who prove to tackle the environmental problems seen throughout the supply chain of a garment: be it in fiber production, textile preparation or garment manufacture.

This in effect, will also address the environmental impact of transporting garments to retail stores.

Most importantly, this PPT is testament to a growing fashion collective whose designs and garments demonstrate that style, desirability and human spirit come hand-in-hand with sustainability.

References

http://en.wikipedia.org http://www.sustainabilitydictionary.com http://www.aiacaonline.org/ http://www.upasana.in www.thunkinindia.com http://www.designwala.org http://www.goonj.info Jornal:Janet Hethorn, Connie Ulasewicz, Sustainable Fashion Jornal: Kate Fletcher , Sustainable Fashion and Textiles Design Journeys Green Technology, Strategy and leadership for clean and sustainable communities

green-technology.org (accessed on 2 May 2009) http://www.green-technology.org http://www.treehugger.com http://www.kidbean.com http://www.traid.org.uk United Nations General Assembly ."Report of the World Commission on Environment

and Developme Earth to Fashion." Vogue   Future Fashion

References

Sustainablecotton.org http://www.eco-gear.com Portland Fashion Week Huffingtonpost.co.uk. "Prison Couture Mainlines Eco-Ethics Bamboo Fiber Sustainable, Musings on the great bamboo debate. Planet Green. Shades of Green: Decoding Eco Fashion's Claims. The Wall Street Journal. Binkley, Christina. "Which Outfit Is Greenest? A New Rating Tool“, Wall Street Journal  "AAFA, SAC Sign MoU“,  Textile World Magazine  Gunther, Marc. "Behind the Scenes at the Sustainable Apparel Coalition",  "Current Members“, Sustainable Apparel Coalition. www.patagonia.com www.biothinking.com www.freitag.com www.stokke.com http://www.iisd.org http://www.saintl.org http://www.repreve.com www.fashioninganethicalindustry.org

Thank you…