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PORTFOLIO
SHEFALI GATTANI 1st YEAR DIPLOMA IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY
Project Report on
Women's Western Wear
Submitted to
Dezyne E’cole College
Towards the Partial Fulfillment for
Award of Diploma in Fashion Technology
As Technical Knowledge Development to
Women’s Wear
Included With Diploma Program Of
Fashion Technology
By
Shefali Gattani
Dezyne E’cole College Ajmer
Address, 106/10, civil lines, Ajmer
Tel. no.0145 2624679
www.dezyneecole.com
2014-2015
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I am deeply grateful to all those whose guidance has been of
tremendous value and enabled me to complete this project
successfully.
I am thankful to all my mentors of Dezyne E’ cole who
gave me an opportunity to show my abilities by working on this
project on the esteem organization.
SHEFALI GATTANI
1ST Year diploma in Fashion Technology
1. Fashion as a Person’s Image
2. Fashion Industry
3. Learning Experience
4. Foundation Design
5. Corel Draw
6. Fashion illustration
7. Pattern Engineering
8. Measurement techniques
9. Draping
10.Fabric Manipulation
11.Element and Principle of
Design
CONTENT
Fashion is a more then wearing good clothes it is about presenting a
person’s image in Society , we generally see people accepting
fashion due to pee pressure, Image in the society and when a
person wants a change to brighten his life. There are many reasons
behind what we wear.
• Protection from cold ,rain and snow :- Mountain climbers wear
high – tech outwear to avoid frostbite and over – exposure.
• Physical attention :- Many styles are worn to inspire “chemistry”.
• Emotions :- we dress “up” when we’re happy and “down” when
we’re upset.
• Religious expression :- Orthodox Jewish men wear long part of
their body except their eyes.
• Identification and tradition :- Judges wear robes ,people in the
military wear uniform, brides wear long white dresses.
Fashion as a Person’s Image
Within the sphere of Technology Industries , design technology is
perhaps the fastest growing today. with new technologies emerging
rapidly and industries changing complexion, more and more job
opportunities are up for the taking .It is estimated that India will have
a shortfall of five lakh people in the design sector by 2010-11 but not
all gradates will be employable .Thus bringing the gap between talent
and the skills required by the industry is important. only Today, one in
every four designers is employable and only 10% of the design
graduates manage to get employment in the design industry. Hence
the student should understand the basic requirement of the industry
and exhibit that ability .
Fashion Industry
This is what I learn here at Dezyne E’cole college creating fashion
doesn’t entail a vivid imagination and instinct for creativity. It also
involve many decisions and myriad techniques , focus on a central
idea. Dezyne E’cole Fashion design made me build a strong
foundation in terms of design sence, Conceptualisation
independent research ,creative application and artistic experience
Learning Experience
As a part of fashion industry I am training my self through
formal education in Diploma programme in build with this
study. During the course duration of diploma programme I had
an exposure towards practical working in fashion design.
FOUNDATION DESIGN
Colour is a most vital tool in the hands of fashion
designer. It is the most perceptible and hence is a
central to success and failure of a designer
scheme.it is therefore very important designer that
a designer has a full knowledge and understanding
of its tool.
COLOR IMPACT IN DESIGN
Variation in Cool Color Blue
Variation in Cool Color Yellow
Variation in Cool Color Red
Warm and Cool Color
COLORS
The Yellow is lighter
value then Red
The Blue color is
Darker value then
Orange
The Green is lighter
value then Brown
The Dark Green is
equal in the value to
the Brown
Compare the Blue and Red Rectangles to the Grey
Rectangles or either side of each color. Which Grey is equal in
value to the color ? It may be helpful to stand at a distance
and blur your eyes. If the edge between the two area
disappears, the values are equal.
Comparing Value of Color
Simultaneous Contrast
Corel Draw
COREL DRAW
COREL DRAW
COREL DRAW
ILLUSTRATION
Bertha deep
neckline Bertha Tie
Bertha Buster
Brown Style
Bertha Knotted
Ends
Bertha Yoke
style
Bertha - Braid
Edge Trim
COLLARS
Bellow Cargo
Cargo front
Kangaroo Flap Shape
Stitched
Patch Button Flap
POCKETS
Layered Sleeve cap Sleeve
Tulip Sleeve
Bushirt Sleeve
Puff Sleeve
SLEEVES
PATTERN ENGINEERING
Fashion Designing runs the garment from eveningwear to
sportswear, Women’s wear to Men’s wear and Kids wear to
knitwear. Garment Construction is popularly called Pattern
Engineering has a great importance in fashion design industry. The
Companies like van heuson,dockers levis, adidas etc. are the
providers of perfect fit and this is what we learn at Dezyne E’cole
through the art of pattern making.
A slop pattern [ home sewing ] and block pattern [ industrial
production ] is custom – fitted basic pattern from which pattern for
many different styles can be developed.
The Draping method involves creating a Maslin mock up by
pinning fabric directly on a form then transferring the muslin outline
and makings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern
it self.
The flat pattern Draping method is the most commonly used
method in Menswear.
Garment Construction
The Flat pattern method where the entire pattern is drafted on a flat
surface from measurements ,using the ruler and curve and straight
Edges. As a fashion designer I use various tools and measuring
devices to create a toil pattern on dummy.
Measuring Tape
Seam Ripper Scissor
Drafting Scale Tailoring Chalk French curve
Tools and Equipment
Pattern Making Symbol
Various sign and symbols of pattern making which I generally use on pattern:-
Pattern Making Symbol
Various sign and symbols of pattern making which I generally use on pattern:-
Pattern Making Symbol
Various sign and symbols of pattern making which I generally use on pattern:-
Notches :- • Seam allowance
• Center Line
• Ease $ Gather Control • Dart Legs
• Identification of Front & Back • Identification of Joining Parts • Zipper Placement
• Facing
• Hemline
• Waistline
• Shoulder Tip
• Sleeve Cap
Punch / Circle :- • Dart intake
• Corners
• Buttons / Buttonholes
• Trimmings
• Pocket placement
Jog Seam :- A jog seam is used to indicate a change
in the seam allowance. ¼ inch : • All faced areas
• Narrow spacing
• Extreme curve
• Sleeveless armhole ½ inch : • Side seam
• Waist line
• Center line
• Styline
1inch : • Shoulder 2inch : • Straight Hemline
Notches
Number refers to both front & back
wherever indicated :-
1. Center Front Neck Center
Back Neck
2. Center Front Waist Center
Back Waist
3. Bust Point
4. Center Bus Level
5. Center Front [Princess line] Center
Back [Princess line
6. Mid Armhole front Mid Armhole
Back
7. Shoulder Tip
8. Shoulder at Neck
9. Armhole Ridged or Roll Line
10.Plate Screw
11.Armhole Plate
Landmarks
The flat- pattern method is where the entire
pattern is drafted on the flat surface measurement
. Under garment construction we learn about the
measuring techniques on the dress form. That can
be seen here:-
Different ways to taking measurements:-
• Circumference measurements
• Horizontal measurements
• Vertical measurements
Measurement
CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENT
Round Bust
measurement
Round Waist measurement
Round Abdomen measurement
Size=34”
Circumference Measurements
Vertical Measurements
Front length Measurement
Shoulder Slope Measurement
Full length Measurement
Vertical Measurements
Size=34”
Horizontal Measurement
Across shoulder Measurement
Across Chest Measurement
Abdomen Arc Measurement
Size=34”
Horizontal Measurement
Women’s basic bodices Block
Women’s basic Sleeve Block
KAMEEZ
BLOUSE
CHURIDAAR PYJAMI
BETTED KALIDAR SALWAR
FOUR PANNEL PETTICOAT
SIX PANNEL PETTICOAT
Dart Manipulation is a slash spread and pivotal transfer making
technique to transfer dart excess to one location to another for
design variation .It is a beginning of pattern manipulation for
generating design patterns. It require both artistic and technical
skills to manage and control the pattern.
PRINCIPLE 1
One Dart Series
Two Dart Series
A Dart may be transfer to any
location around the pattern
outlines from the designated
pivotal point without affecting
the size or fit of the garment.
PRINCIPLE 2 Added fullness
To increase garment to an amount
greater then that provided by the
dart excess of working pattern.
The length and the width within
the pattern’s outline must be
increased.
PRINCIPLE 3 Contouring
To fit the contour of the upper torso closer then the basic garment
the pattern must be reduced within its frame to fit the dimension of
the body above, below and between the bust mounds and shoulder
blades.
Dart Manipulation
SALWAR
KURTA
GARMENTS
HAULTER NECK
BETTED KALIDAAR SALWAR
GARMENTS
CHOLI BLOUSE
SIX PANNEL PETTICOAT
GARMENTS
NIGHT SUIT
BASIC BODICE BLOCK
SAREE BLOUSE
GARMENTS
FOUR PANNEL PETTICOAT
Front view
Side View
Back view
FRENCH DART
SINGLE DART SERIES
Front View Side View
Back View
SINGLE DART SERIES
Mid Shoulder Dart
Front View Side View
Back View
SINGLE DART SERIES
Mid Armhole Dart
Front View Side View
Back View
SINGLE DART SERIES
Mid Shoulder and Waist Dart
Front View Side View
Back View
SINGLE DART SERIES
Mid Armhole and Waist Dart
Front View Side View
SINGLE DART SERIES
Side and Waist Dart
Back View
Front View Side View
Tuck Dart
Back View
Front View Side View
Pleat Dart
Back View
Front View
Radiating Dart
Back View
Neck Radiating Dart
Front View Side View
Back View
PARALLEL DART
Front View Side View
Back View
PRINCESS PANEL
Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Waist)
Front View Side View
Back View
PRINCESS PANEL
Mid Shoulder Princess Panel (Torso)
Side View
Back View
PRINCESS PANEL
Mid Armhole Princess Panel (Torso)
Front View
Side View
Back View
DART CLUSTERS
Front View
WAIST DART CLUSTER
Side View
Back View
GATHERS
Front View
Gathers at Neck
Side View
Back View
GATHERS
Front View
Gathers at Princess Line
Side View
Back View
Front View
HAULTER NECK LINE
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
FABRIC MANIPULATION
TRIBAL ART
TRIBAL ART IN GUJRAT