CREPE AND SATIN WEAVEBy Ashutosh Gupta

INTRODUCTION

Crepe weaves constitute an useful variety of simple weaves andare also known as “crape” or “oatmeal” fabrics due to theirpebbly or crinkled (rough) surface. The size of the pebbles andtheir arrangement on the fabric surface determine the type ofcrepe fabric.

The crepe effect can be achieved either by the use of crepe yarns(highly twisted) or a crepe weave, and sometimes by special process of finishing, i.e., embossing.

Methods for the constructionof crepe weaves-

Construction of crepe weaves uponsateen base

Combination of a floating weave withplain threads

By reversing a small motif

Insertion of one weave over another.

Construction of crepe weaves upon sateen base

• In this case the base weave is asateen, upon which a chosen weaveis inserted to get the irregular effects. This is shown in Fig. 7.1.

• At Fig. A, is shown the base sateenweave and at Fig. B, is shown thecrepe effect obtained by insertion ofa twill weave (3/1 and 1/3) upon thesateen base. The sateen weave hasbeen marked with a differentnotation in order to identify the baseweave.

Combination of a floating weave with plain threads

• In this method a floating weave is

inserted upon a plain weave to get

the desired crepe effect as shown in

Fig.7.2

• At Fig. A, is shown the insertionof plain weave. The arrow marksindicate the boxes where the floating weave is to be inserted.

By reversing of a small motif

• In this method a simple motif can be chosen and reversed at intervals within the design repeat to get an irregular effect as shownin Fig. 7.3.

• At A, is shown a simple motif and at B, is shown the crepe designs obtained by reversal of the motif at regular intervals.

Insertion of one weave over another

• In this method two different weaves are chosen and are inserted over one another to get the desired crepe effect as shown in the Fig. 7.4. In order to produce an irregular effect, at least one of the weaves should be irregular and would be better if both are irregular. Sateen and sateen derivatives are generally used in this method.

• In Fig. A, is shown a sateen derivative and in Fig. B, is shown a 4 end sateen. In Fig. C, is shown the crepe effect obtained by the insertion of A over B.

Satin fabrics

Thumb rules for making satin weave

Move can not be one or less than one of the satin no.

Move no. should not be factor of satin no.

There should not be any common factor between move no. & satin no.

Thank you