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A presentation shown by Maria Adele Cipolla (arteinscena) in the latest Texmedin meeting (september 2009) in Athens
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Arteinscena: a case study
Maria Adele Cipolla
www.arteinscena.biz
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
Arteinscena
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TheatricalCostumes
Theatrical costumes are a synthesis of creativity, taste, historical research and… technique Sewing Cutting
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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MySources
Museum collections (V&A, Kyoto…) Historical costume books based on
analysis of old garments (Kohler…) Tailoring magazines from the ‘20’s
through the ’50s, found second hand Private collections in Palermo of
original garments (two, in need of funding)
Family heirlooms: in Palermo even from the 18th century
Period portraits etc.
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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Starting point:the base pattern
The human body is 3D but fabrics are 2D; we need to cut and insert darts to fit the fabric to the body
The base pattern is the result of a centuries-old tradition with precise rules
Nearly every distance between two points has a mathematical relation with one or more body measurements
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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Variationson a theme
Costumes for an opera chorus are made from the same base pattern and developed for each singer’s measurements
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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The pattern cutter(“chief”)
The key figure in a costume atelier is the “pattern cutter”
An atelier’s reputation depends on his skill
A mistaken cut leads to longer production time (and additional expenses)
But it is a disappearing craft No attraction for the young Uncomforable working position
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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I’ve beenthrough it
I was tired of managing lots of cardboard shapes and depending entirely on a disappearing profession
I thought: could computers help me in this job?
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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Industrial CAD doesn’t solve my problem
Industrial CAD uses fixed distances to draw the base pattern
From there, grading systems normally develop different sizes by increasing and decreasing the shape
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Macrogen© software: my solution. How does it work?
Like CAD, the software is based on cartesian coordinates
But each pattern is constructed using the traditional cutting method
Every distance is espressed as a function of a body measurement
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Why it fitsmy needs
With Macrogen you can create base patterns (called Macros) using default measurements
Replacing the default values with those of a specific body, the pattern fits with the client’s shape and proportions
A macro file can be created for each model, taking the place of the old base patterns in cardboard
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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The Macros maintainthe cutter’s expertise
The Macro is thus the closest thing to the traditional technique
That is the process still followed by theatrical costume houses (especially for opera)
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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My digitalarchive
One by one I transfered my own collection of base patterns into the Macrogen system
My collection used to require two bookcases, now it all fits on a pen-drive I can take with me
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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I decided to offer my collection to others
Arteinscena is an ecommerce service providing theatrical costume patterns developed to individual measurements, throughout the world
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On-line clientsselect a model
Clients browse a catalogue of over 200 models Men and Women From 1060 to 2000
Using a tape measure they take their traditional tailoring body measurements (circumference, length and width)
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And I generate theircustom pattern as a pdf file
I input the client’s measurements to replace the default values in the macro, adjusting where needed
Using an associated CAD module I place the pieces, colour the elements, add notes and generate the pdf file
Within max 3 working days from the order, the client receives a set of A0 sized pdf files (normally 2-8 sheets), which can be plotted at a local service
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The softwareis precise
Just as Microsoft Word cannot write a novel, MacroGen doesn’t transform any user into a costume designer
For that you need passion, lots of historical research, and years of back-stage experience
However, the software helps you to save time, avoid mistakes and reduce repetitive tasks
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I add myexperience… The software optimises the work process without
changing the important parts The rules of cutting follow the traditional practice Every pattern is manually adjusted where the drawing
lacks harmony Just as an experienced cutter would do to complete a job For example, in the curve of the armhole
Nothing generated automatically escapes my personal control
Texmedin WorkshopAthens, Sept 24, 2009
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…andhuman support
My clients prefer to have a personal contact (mail and sometimes phone), not an anonymous “shopping cart”
The client is accompanied through the process of making the costume with handbooks and mail and phone support
An online community forum is available where clients exchange tips and tricks (with me and between them), signal events of common interest and post photos of their creations
Thank you for your attention
Maria Adele Cipolla
www.arteinscena.biz