Motor zetec

2C

GeneralEngine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line, double overhead camshaftsEngine code:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LIE1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RDA, RQB

Capacity:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1597 cc1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1796 cc

Bore:1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76.0 mm1.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80.6 mm

Stroke - all models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88.0 mmCompression ratio:

1.6 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3:11.8 litre models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.0:1

Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)

Cylinder headHydraulic tappet bore inside diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28.395 to 28.425 mm

Camshafts and hydraulic tappetsCamshaft bearing journal diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25.960 to 25.980 mmCamshaft bearing journal-to-cylinder head running clearance . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.070 mmCamshaft endfloat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.080 to 0.220 mm

LubricationEngine oil type/specification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Engine oil capacity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Oil pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writingOil pump clearances . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . No information available at time of writing

Chapter 2 Part C:Zetec engine - in-car engine repair procedures

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Camshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and

inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2DCylinder head cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Engine oil and filter change . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Engine overhaul - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2DEngine/transmission - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . See Chapter 2D

Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and renewal . . . . . . . . 19Exhaust manifold - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . 7Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Inlet manifold - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Oil pump - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Repair operations possible with the engine in the vehicle . . . . . . . . 2Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 1Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys - removal, inspection

and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Water pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See Chapter 3

2C•1

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expertDIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

Specifications

Contents

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftCylinder head cover bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1.5Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5

Camshaft toothed pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 50Camshaft bearing cap bolts:

Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14

Cylinder head bolts:Stage 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 18Stage 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 33Stage 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Angle-tighten a further 105º

Timing belt cover fasteners:Upper-to-middle (outer) cover bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 3Cover-to-cylinder head or block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Cover studs-to-cylinder head or block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 to 11 6.5 to 8

Timing belt tensioner bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 28Timing belt tensioner backplate locating peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 to 11 6 to 8Timing belt tensioner spring retaining pin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Timing belt guide pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 to 40 26 to 30Water pump pulley bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 35Inlet manifold nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 13Alternator mounting bracket-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35Cylinder head support plates:

Front plate Torx screws - to power steering pump/air conditioningcompressor mounting bracket and cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35Rear plate/engine lifting eye to alternator mountingbracket and cylinder head bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 35

Front engine lifting eye bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12Inlet and exhaust manifold studs-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 maximum 7 maximumExhaust manifold heat shield bolts:

Shield-to-cylinder head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 5Shield/dipstick tube . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Shield/coolant pipe-to-manifold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 17

Exhaust manifold nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 12Air conditioning refrigerant pipe-to-exhaust manifold bolts . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Crankshaft pulley bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 to 115 80 to 85Oil pump-to-cylinder block bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Oil pick-up pipe-to-pump screws . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Oil baffle/pump pick-up pipe nuts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 14Oil filter adapter-to-pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 to 25 13 to 18Oil pressure warning light switch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 20Sump bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 to 22 15 to 16Coolant pipe-to-sump bolt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7Flywheel/driveplate bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 to 112 81 to 83Crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 16Note: Refer to Part D of this Chapter for remaining torque wrench settings.

2C•2 Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures

1 General information

How to use this ChapterThis Part of Chapter 2 is devoted to repair

procedures possible while the engine is stillinstalled in the vehicle, and includes only theSpecifications relevant to those procedures.Similar information concerning the 1.3 litreHCS engine, and the 1.4 and 1.6 litre CVH engines, will be found in Parts A and B ofthis Chapter respectively. Since theseprocedures are based on the assumption thatthe engine is installed in the vehicle, if theengine has been removed from the vehicle and

mounted on a stand, some of the preliminarydismantling steps outlined will not apply.

Information concerning engine/transmissionremoval and refitting, and engine overhaul, canbe found in Part D of this Chapter, which alsoincludes the Specifications relevant to thoseprocedures.

General description - Zetec engine

The Zetec engine, (formerly Zeta), is ofsixteen-valve, double overhead camshaft(DOHC), four-cylinder, in-line type, mountedtransversely at the front of the vehicle, withthe (clutch and) transmission on its left-handend (see illustrations).

Apart from the plastic timing belt coversand the cast-iron cylinder block/crankcase, all

major engine castings are of aluminium alloy.The crankshaft runs in five main bearings,

the centre main bearing’s upper halfincorporating thrustwashers to controlcrankshaft endfloat. The connecting rodsrotate on horizontally-split bearing shells attheir big-ends. The pistons are attached to theconnecting rods by gudgeon pins which arean interference fit in the connecting rod small-end eyes. The aluminium alloy pistons arefitted with three piston rings: twocompression rings and an oil control ring.After manufacture, the cylinder bores andpiston skirts are measured and classified intothree grades, which must be carefullymatched together, to ensure the correctpiston/cylinder clearance; no oversizes areavailable to permit reboring.

The inlet and exhaust valves are eachclosed by coil springs; they operate in guideswhich are shrink-fitted into the cylinder head,as are the valve seat inserts.

Both camshafts are driven by the sametoothed timing belt, each operating eightvalves via self-adjusting hydraulic tappets,thus eliminating the need for routine checkingand adjustment of the valve clearances. Eachcamshaft rotates in five bearings that are line-bored directly in the cylinder head and the(bolted-on) bearing caps; this means that thebearing caps are not available separately fromthe cylinder head, and must not beinterchanged with caps from another engine.

The water pump is bolted to the right-handend of the cylinder block, inboard of thetiming belt, and is driven with the powersteering pump and alternator by a flat“polyvee”-type auxiliary drivebelt from thecrankshaft pulley.

When working on this engine, note thatTorx-type (both male and female heads) andhexagon socket (Allen head) fasteners arewidely used; a good selection of bits, with thenecessary adapters, will be required, so thatthese can be unscrewed without damage and,on reassembly, tightened to the torquewrench settings specified.

Lubrication is by means of an eccentric-rotor trochoidal pump, which is mounted onthe crankshaft right-hand end, and draws oilthrough a strainer located in the sump. Thepump forces oil through an externally-mounted full-flow cartridge-type filter - on

Zetec engine – in-car engine repair procedures 2C•3

2C

1.3B Lateral cross-section through engine

1 Inlet camshaft2 Exhaust camshaft3 Oil galleries4 Exhaust port5 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe6 Oil baffle7 Crankshaft8 Piston-cooling oil jet (where fitted)9 Inlet valve

10 Inlet port11 Fuel injector12 Inlet camshaft toothed pulley13 Timing belt14 Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley15 Timing belt (front) guide pulley16 Crankshaft toothed pulley - behind17 Crankshaft pulley18 Oil cooler (where fitted)19 Timing belt (rear) guide pulley20 Timing belt tensioner

1.3A Longitudinal cross-section through engine - inset showingtiming belt details

1 Exhaust valve2 Piston3 Oil baffle

4 Oil strainer and pick-up pipe

5 Spark plug

6 Fuel injector7 Piston-cooling oil jets

(where fitted)

some versions of the engine, an oil cooler isfitted to the oil filter mounting, so that clean oilentering the engine’s galleries is cooled by themain engine cooling system (see illustration).

Valve clearances - generalIt is necessary for a clearance to exist

between the tip of each valve stem and thevalve operating mechanism, to allow for theexpansion of the various components as theengine reaches normal operatingtemperature.

On most older engine designs, this meantthat the valve clearances (also known as“tappet” clearances) had to be checked andadjusted regularly. If the clearances wereallowed to be too slack, the engine would bevery noisy, its power output would suffer, andits fuel consumption would increase. If theclearances were allowed to be too tight, theengine’s power output would be reduced, andthe valves and their seats could be severelydamaged.

The Zetec engine employs hydraulictappets which use the lubricating system’s oilpressure to automatically take up theclearance between each camshaft lobe andits respective valve stem. Therefore, there isno need for regular checking and adjustmentof the valve clearances, but it is essential thatonly good-quality oil of the recommendedviscosity and specification is used in theengine, and that this oil is always changed atthe recommended intervals. If this advice isnot followed, the oilways and tappets maybecome clogged with particles of dirt, ordeposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so thatthe system cannot work properly; ultimately,one or more of the tappets may fail, andexpensive repairs may be required.

On starting the engine from cold, there willbe a slight delay while full oil pressure buildsup in all parts of the engine, especially in thetappets; the valve components, therefore,may well “rattle” for about 10 seconds or so,and then quieten. This is a normal state ofaffairs, and is nothing to worry about,provided that all tappets quieten quickly andstay quiet.

After the vehicle has been standing forseveral days, the valve components may“rattle” for longer than usual, as nearly all theoil will have drained away from the engine’stop-end components and bearing surfaces.While this is only to be expected, care mustbe taken not to damage the engine underthese circumstances - avoid high speedrunning until all the tappets are refilled with oiland operating normally. With the vehiclestationary, hold the engine at no more than afast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm)for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noiseceases. Do not run the engine at more than3000 rpm until the tappets are fully rechargedwith oil and the noise has ceased.

If the valve components are thought to benoisy, or if a light rattle persists from the topend after the engine has warmed up to normaloperating temperature, take the vehicle to aFord dealer for expert advice. Depending onthe mileage covered and the usage to whicheach vehicle has been put, some vehicles maybe noisier than others; only a good mechanicexperienced in these engines can tell if thenoise level is typical for the vehicle’s mileage,or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappet’soperation is faulty, it must be renewed(Section 13).

2 Repair operations possiblewith the engine in the vehicle

The following major repair operations canbe accomplished without removing the enginefrom the vehicle. However, owners shouldnote that any operation involving the removalof the sump requires careful forethought,depending on the level of skill and the toolsand facilities available; refer to the relevanttext for details:a) Compression pressure - testing.b) Cylinder head cover - removal and

refitting.c) Timing belt covers - removal and refitting.d) Timing belt - renewal.e) Timing belt tensioner and toothed pulleys

- removal and refitting.f) Camshaft oil seals - renewal.g) Camshafts and hydraulic tappets -

removal and refitting.h) Cylinder head - removal, overhaul and

refitting.i) Cylinder head and pistons -

decarbonising.j) Sump - removal and refitting.k) Crankshaft oil seals - renewal.l) Oil pump - removal and refitting.m) Piston/connecting rod assemblies -

removal and refitting (but see note below).n) Flywheel/driveplate - removal and

refitting.o) Engine/transmission mountings - removal

and refitting.Clean the engine compartment and the

exterior of the engine with some type ofdegreasant before any work is done. It will


1.11 Engine lubrication system - inset showing longitudinalcross-section

1 Main oil gallery2 From oil filter3 Oil pump4 Cylinder head

oil-retaining valve5 Cylinder head oil gallery6 Cylinder head oil supply7 Oil return8 Piston-cooling oil spray

(where fitted)9 Oil filter - oil cooler not

shown here

make the job easier, and will help to keep dirtout of the internal areas of the engine.

Depending on the components involved, itmay be helpful to remove the bonnet, toimprove access to the engine as repairs areperformed (refer to Chapter 11 if necessary).Cover the front wings to prevent damage tothe paint; special covers are available, but anold bedspread or blanket will also work.

If vacuum, exhaust, oil or coolant leaksdevelop, indicating a need forcomponent/gasket or seal replacement, therepairs can generally be made with the enginein the vehicle. The inlet and exhaust manifoldgaskets, sump gasket, crankshaft oil sealsand cylinder head gasket are all accessiblewith the engine in place.

Exterior components such as the inlet andexhaust manifolds, the sump, the oil pump,the water pump, the starter motor, thealternator and the fuel system componentscan be removed for repair with the engine inplace.

Since the cylinder head can be removedwithout lifting out the engine, camshaft andvalve component servicing can also beaccomplished with the engine in the vehicle,as can renewal of the timing belt and toothedpulleys.

In extreme cases caused by a lack ofnecessary equipment, repair or renewal ofpiston rings, pistons, connecting rods andbig-end bearings is possible with the engine inthe vehicle. However, this practice is notrecommended, because of the cleaning andpreparation work that must be done to thecomponents involved, and because of theamount of preliminary dismantling workrequired - these operations are thereforecovered in Part D of this Chapter.

3 Compression test -description and interpretation 2

1 When engine performance is down, or ifmisfiring occurs which cannot be attributed tothe ignition or fuel systems, a compressiontest can provide diagnostic clues as to theengine’s condition. If the test is performedregularly, it can give warning of trouble beforeany other symptoms become apparent.2 The engine must be fully warmed-up tonormal operating temperature, the oil levelmust be correct, the battery must be fullycharged, and the spark plugs must beremoved. The aid of an assistant will berequired also.3 Disable the ignition system by unpluggingthe ignition coil’s electrical connector, andremove fuse 14 to disconnect the fuel pump.4 Fit a compression tester to the No 1cylinder spark plug hole - the type of testerwhich screws into the plug thread is to bepreferred.5 Have the assistant hold the throttle wideopen and crank the engine on the starter

motor; after one or two revolutions, thecompression pressure should build up to amaximum figure, and then stabilise. Recordthe highest reading obtained.6 Repeat the test on the remaining cylinders,recording the pressure developed in each.7 Due to the variety of testers available, andthe fluctuation in starter motor speed whencranking the engine, different readings areoften obtained when carrying out thecompression test. For this reason, actualcompression pressure figures are not given bythe manufacturer’s, but a typical readingwould be in excess of 12 bars. All cylindersshould produce very similar pressures; anydifference greater than 10% indicates theexistence of a fault. Note that thecompression should build up quickly in ahealthy engine; low compression on the firststroke, followed by gradually-increasingpressure on successive strokes, indicatesworn piston rings. A low compression readingon the first stroke, which does not build upduring successive strokes, indicates leakingvalves or a blown head gasket (a crackedhead could also be the cause). Deposits onthe undersides of the valve heads can alsocause low compression.8 If the pressure in any cylinder isconsiderably lower than the others, introducea teaspoonful of clean oil into that cylinderthrough its spark plug hole, and repeat thetest.9 If the addition of oil temporarily improvesthe compression pressure, this indicates thatbore or piston ring wear is responsible for thepressure loss. No improvement suggests thatleaking or burnt valves, or a blown headgasket, may be to blame.10 A low reading from two adjacent cylindersis almost certainly due to the head gaskethaving blown between them; the presence ofcoolant in the engine oil will confirm this.11 If one cylinder is about 20 percent lowerthan the others and the engine has a slightlyrough idle, a worn camshaft lobe or faultyhydraulic tappet could be the cause.12 If the compression is unusually high, thecombustion chambers are probably coatedwith carbon deposits. If this is the case, thecylinder head should be removed anddecarbonised.13 On completion of the test, refit the sparkplugs, reconnect the ignition system, and refitthe fuel pump fuse.

4 Top Dead Centre (TDC) forNo 1 piston - locating 2

General1 Top Dead Centre (TDC) is the highest pointin its travel up and down its cylinder bore thateach piston reaches as the crankshaft rotates.While each piston reaches TDC both at thetop of the compression stroke and again at

the top of the exhaust stroke, for the purposeof timing the engine, TDC refers to the pistonposition (usually No 1 piston) at the top of itscompression stroke.2 It is useful for several servicing proceduresto be able to position the engine at TDC.3 No 1 piston and cylinder are at the right-hand (timing belt) end of the engine (right- andleft-hand are always quoted as seen from thedriver’s seat). Note that the crankshaft rotatesclockwise when viewed from the right-handside of the vehicle.

Locating TDC4 Remove all the spark plugs (Chapter 1).5 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead(refer to Chapter 5, Section 1) - unless thestarter motor is to be used to turn the engine.6 Apply the handbrake and ensure that thetransmission is in neutral, then jack up thefront right-hand side of the vehicle andsupport on an axle stand. Remove theroadwheel.7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (seeChapter 1) to expose the crankshaft pulleyand timing marks.8 It is best to rotate the crankshaft using aspanner applied to the crankshaft pulley bolt;however, it is possible also to use the startermotor (switched on either by an assistantusing the ignition key, or by using a remotestarter switch) to bring the engine close toTDC, then finish with a spanner. If the starteris used, be sure to disconnect the battery leadimmediately it is no longer required.9 Note the two pairs of notches in the innerand outer rims of the crankshaft pulley. In thenormal direction of crankshaft rotation(clockwise, seen from the right-hand side ofthe vehicle) the first pair of notches areirrelevant to the vehicles covered in thismanual, while the second pair indicate TDCwhen aligned with the rear edge of the raisedmark on the sump. Rotate the crankshaftclockwise until the second pair of notchesalign with the edge of the sump mark; use astraight edge extended out from the sump ifgreater accuracy is required (seeillustrations).10 Nos 1 and 4 cylinders are now at TDC,one of them on the compression stroke.


4.9A Do not use crankshaft pulley’s firstpair of notches “A” - align second pair of

notches “B” with raised rib on sump “C” . . .

2C

Remove the oil filler cap; if No 4 cylinderexhaust cam lobe is pointing to the rear of thevehicle and slightly downwards, it is No 1cylinder that is correctly positioned. If the lobeis pointing horizontally forwards, rotate thecrankshaft one full turn (360∞) clockwise untilthe pulley notches align again, and the lobe ispointing to the rear and slightly down. No 1cylinder will then be at TDC on thecompression stroke.11 Once No 1 cylinder has been positionedat TDC on the compression stroke, TDC forany of the other cylinders can then be locatedby rotating the crankshaft clockwise 180∞ at atime and following the firing order (see Speci-fications).12 An alternative method of locating TDC isto remove the cylinder head cover (seeSection 5) and to rotate the crankshaft(clockwise, as described in paragraph 8above) until the inlet valves for the cylinderconcerned have opened and just closedagain. Insert a length of wooden dowel(approximately 150 mm/6 in long) or similarinto the spark plug hole until it rests on thepiston crown, and slowly further rotate thecrankshaft (taking care not to allow the dowelto be trapped in the cylinder) until the dowelstops rising - the piston is now at the top of itscompression stroke, and the dowel can beremoved.13 There is a “dead” area around TDC (as thepiston stops rising, pauses and then begins todescend) which makes difficult the exact

location of TDC by this method; if accuracy isrequired, either establish carefully the exactmid-point of the dead area, or refer to thetiming marks (paragraph 9 above).

5 Cylinder head cover -removal and refitting 1

1 Remove the air inlet hose and inlet duct asdescribed in Chapter 4B.2 Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle linkage as described in Chapter 4B.3 Remove the timing belt upper cover (seeSection 9).4 Disconnect the crankcase breather hosefrom the cylinder head cover union (seeillustration).5 Unplug the HT leads from the spark plugsand withdraw them, unclipping the leads fromthe cover.6 Working progressively, unscrew thecylinder head cover retaining bolts, noting thespacer sleeve and rubber seal at each, thenwithdraw the cover (see illustration).7 Discard the cover gasket; this must berenewed whenever it is disturbed. Check thatthe sealing faces are undamaged, and that therubber seal at each retaining bolt isserviceable; renew any worn or damagedseals.8 On refitting, clean the cover and cylinder

head gasket faces carefully, then fit a newgasket to the cover, ensuring that it locatescorrectly in the cover grooves (seeillustration).9 Refit the cover to the cylinder head, theninsert the rubber seal and spacer sleeve ateach bolt location (see illustration). Start allbolts finger-tight, ensuring that the gasketremains seated in its groove.10 Working in a diagonal sequence from thecentre outwards, and in two stages (seeSpecifications), tighten the cover bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting.11 Refit the HT leads, clipping them intoplace so that they are correctly routed; each isnumbered, and can also be identified by thenumbering on its respective coil terminal.12 Reconnect the crankcase breather hose,and refit the timing belt upper cover.Reconnect and adjust the accelerator cable,then refit the air inlet hose and duct (seeChapter 4B).

6 Inlet manifold - removal and refitting 2

Warning: Petrol is extremelyflammable, so take extraprecautions when disconnectingany part of the fuel system. Don’t

smoke, or allow naked flames or bare lightbulbs, in or near the work area. Don’t workin a garage where a natural gas appliance(such as a clothes dryer or water heater) isinstalled. If you spill petrol on your skin,rinse it off immediately. Have a fireextinguisher rated for petrol fires handy,and know how to use it.

Removal1 Park the vehicle on firm, level ground andapply the handbrake firmly.2 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chap-ter 4B).3 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead- see Chapter 5, Section 1.4 Remove the air inlet hose and duct asdescribed in Chapter 4B.5 Referring to Chapter 4B if necessary,


5.9 Ensure rubber seal is fitted to eachcover bolt spacer, as shown

5.8 Ensure gasket is located correctly incover groove

5.6 Removing cylinder head cover5.4 Disconnecting crankcase breatherhose from cylinder head cover union

4.9B . . . use a straight edge extended outfrom the sump (arrowed) if greater

accuracy is required

disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle linkage (see illustrations).6 Disconnect the crankcase breather hosefrom the cylinder head cover union.7 Unbolt the upper part of the exhaustmanifold heat shield.8 Remove the two screws securing the wiring“rail” to the top of the manifold - this is simplyso that it can be moved as required to reachthe manifold bolts. Unplug their electricalconnectors to disconnect the camshaftposition sensor and the coolant temperaturesensor, then unclip the wiring from the ignitioncoil bracket, and secure it to the manifold.9 Remove the three screws securing thewiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.Releasing its wire clip, unplug the largeelectrical connector (next to the fuel pressureregulator) to disconnect the wiring of themanifold components from the engine wiringloom.10 Marking or labelling them as they areunplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses asfollows:a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need todisconnect the second hose running tothe fuel pressure regulator).

b) One from the union on the manifold’s left-hand end (see illustration).

c) The braking system vacuum servo unithose (see Chapter 9 for details).

11 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank byremoving the filler cap, then undo the fuel

feed and return lines connecting the engine tothe chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap allopen fittings.12 Unbolt the earth lead from the cylinderhead rear support plate/engine lifting eye,then unscrew the bolt securing the supportplate/lifting eye.13 Unscrew the nuts and bolts securing themanifold to the cylinder head, and withdraw it.Take care not to damage vulnerablecomponents as the manifold assembly ismanoeuvred out of the engine compartment.

Refitting14 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) When using a scraper and solvent to

remove all traces of old gasket materialand sealant from the manifold andcylinder head, be careful to ensure thatyou do not scratch or damage the matingfaces of either components. If the gasketwas leaking, have the mating surfaceschecked for warpage at an automotivemachine shop.

b) Provided the relevant mating surfaces areclean and flat, a new gasket will besufficient to ensure the joint is gastight.Do not use any kind of silicone-basedsealant on any part of the fuel system orinlet manifold.

c) Fit a new gasket, then locate the manifoldon the head and install the nuts and bolts(see illustration).

d) Tighten the nuts/bolts in three or fourequal steps to the torque listed in thisChapter’s Specifications. Work from thecentre outwards, to avoid warping themanifold.

e) Refit the remaining parts in the reverseorder of removal - tighten all fasteners tothe torque wrench settings specified.

f) Before starting the engine, check theaccelerator cable for correct adjustmentand the throttle linkage for smoothoperation.

h) When the engine is fully warmed-up,check for signs of fuel, inlet and/orvacuum leaks.

i) Road-test the vehicle, and check forproper operation of all disturbedcomponents.

7 Exhaust manifold - removal,inspection and refitting 1

Warning: The engine must becompletely cool before beginningthis procedure.

Note: In addition to the new gasket and anyother parts, tools or facilities needed to carryout this operation, a new plastic guide sleevewill be required on reassembly.

Removal1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead- see Chapter 5, Section 1.2 Remove the air inlet hose and duct asdescribed in Chapter 4B.3 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).4 Disconnect the coolant hose and thecoolant pipe/hose from the thermostathousing; secure them clear of the workingarea.5 Unbolt the exhaust manifold heat shield,and withdraw both parts of the shield (seeillustration).6 While the manifold can be removed with thepulse-air system components attached -unbolt the filter housing and disconnect itsvacuum hose if this is to be done - it is easier


6.10 Disconnecting the vacuum hosesfrom the inlet manifold

6.5B . . . then release the cable adjustingclip and withdraw the cable from the

support bracket

6.5A Disconnect the end of theaccelerator cable from the throttle

linkage . . .

7.5 Exhaust manifold heat shield upperpart securing bolts (arrowed)

6.14 Always renew inlet manifold gasket -do not rely on sealants

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to remove the pulse-air assembly first, asdescribed in Chapter 6 (see illustration).7 Unplug the oxygen sensor electricalconnector, to avoid straining its wiring.Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the exhaustsystem front downpipe from the manifold (seeChapter 4B).8 Remove the nuts and detach the manifoldand gasket (see illustration). When removingthe manifold with the engine in the vehicle,additional clearance can be obtained byunscrewing the studs from the cylinder head;a female Torx-type socket will be required(see illustration).9 Always fit a new gasket on reassembly, tocarefully-cleaned components (see below).Do not attempt to re-use the original gasket.

Inspection10 Use a scraper to remove all traces of oldgasket material and carbon deposits from themanifold and cylinder head mating surfaces. Ifthe gasket was leaking, have the manifoldchecked for warpage at an automotivemachine shop, and have it resurfaced ifnecessary.

Caution: When scraping, be verycareful not to gouge or scratchthe delicate aluminium alloycylinder head.

11 Provided both mating surfaces are cleanand flat, a new gasket will be sufficient toensure the joint is gastight. Do not use any

kind of exhaust sealant upstream of thecatalytic converter.12 Note that the downpipe is secured to themanifold by two bolts, with a coil spring,spring seat and self-locking nut on each. Onrefitting, tighten the nuts until they stop on thebolt shoulders; the pressure of the springs willthen suffice to make a gastight joint (seeillustrations).13 Do not overtighten the nuts to cure a leak- the bolts will shear; renew the gasket andthe springs if a leak is found. The boltsthemselves are secured by spring clips to themanifold, and can be renewed easily ifdamaged (see illustration).

Refitting14 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure, noting the following points:a) Position a new gasket over the cylinder

head studs, and fit a new plastic guidesleeve to the stud nearest to the thermostathousing, so that the manifold will becorrectly located (see illustration). Do notrefit the manifold without this sleeve.

b) Refit the manifold, and finger-tighten themounting nuts.

c) Working from the centre out, and in threeor four equal steps, tighten the nuts to thetorque wrench setting given in the Speci-fications Section of this Chapter.

d) Refit the remaining parts in the reverseorder of removal. Tighten all fasteners tothe specified torque wrench settings.

e) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).f) Run the engine, and check for exhaust

leaks. Check the coolant level when fullywarmed-up to normal operatingtemperature.

8 Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting 1

1 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt - eitherremove the drivebelt completely, or justsecure it clear of the crankshaft pulley,depending on the work to be carried out (seeChapter 1).


7.14 Fit plastic guide sleeve to stud(arrowed) when refitting exhaust manifold

7.13 Release spring clip to extractsecuring bolt from manifold, when

required

7.12B Renew exhaust system downpipe-to-manifold gasket to prevent leaks

7.12A Showing exhaust downpipe-to-manifold securing bolts - note coil spring,

and shoulder on bolt

7.8B . . . studs can be unscrewed also, ifrequired, to provide additional working

space

7.8A Unscrew nuts (arrowed) to removeexhaust manifold . . .

7.6 Pulse-air system (sleeve nuts arrowed)need not be removed unless required -

assembly can be withdrawn with exhaustmanifold

2 If necessary, rotate the crankshaft until thetiming marks align (see Section 4).3 The crankshaft must now be locked toprevent its rotation while the pulley bolt isunscrewed. To do this, remove the startermotor (Chapter 5) and lock the starter ringgear teeth using a suitable screwdriver.4 Unscrew the pulley bolt and remove thepulley (see illustrations).5 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; ensure that the pulley’s keyway isaligned with the crankshaft’s locating key, andtighten the pulley bolt to the specified torquewrench setting.

9 Timing belt covers - removal and refitting 4

Upper cover1 Unscrew the cover’s two mounting boltsand withdraw it.2 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; ensure that the cover edgesengage correctly with each other, and note thetorque wrench setting specified for the bolts.

Middle cover3 Unscrew the nut securing the powersteering pipe support clip to the stud at therear of the middle cover. Lift the powersteering fluid reservoir upwards out of itsmounting bracket and move it clear, as far asthe hoses will allow, for access. If insufficientclearance is obtained, disconnect the fluidunions as necessary, and collect the fluid in asuitable container. Plug or cover anydisconnected unions.4 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.5 Remove the timing belt upper cover (seeparagraph 1 above).6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1).7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulley.8 Unscrew the middle cover fasteners (onebolt at the front, one at the lower rear, onestud at the top rear) and withdraw the cover(see illustration).9 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the cover edgesengage correctly with each other, and notethe torque wrench settings specified for thevarious fasteners.10 If the power steering hoses wheredisconnected, bleed the system as describedin Chapter 10 after reconnection.

Lower cover11 Remove the crankshaft pulley (seeSection 8).12 Unscrew the cover’s three securing bolts,and withdraw it (see illustration).13 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; ensure the cover edges engagecorrectly with each other, and note the torquewrench settings specified for the variousfasteners.


9.8 Timing belt and cover details

8.4B Ensure pulley is located oncrankshaft Woodruff key on reassembly

8.4A Unscrew pulley bolt to releasecrankshaft pulley

9.15 Timing belt inner shield fasteners(arrowed)

9.12 Removing timing belt lower cover -bolt locations arrowed

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1 Timing belt upper cover

2 Inlet camshaft toothed pulley

3 Exhaust camshaft toothed pulley

4 Timing belt5 Timing belt

tensioner6 Crankshaft

toothed pulley7 Timing belt middle

cover8 Timing belt lower

cover9 Crankshaft pulley

10 Water pump pulley

Inner shield14 Remove the timing belt, its tensionercomponents and the camshaft toothedpulleys (see Sections 10 and 11).15 The shield is secured to the cylinder headby two bolts at the top, and by two studslower down; unscrew these and withdraw theshield (see illustration).16 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure; note the torque wrench settingsspecified for the various fasteners.

10 Timing belt - removal, refittingand adjustment 4

Note: To carry out this operation, a new timingbelt (where applicable), a new cylinder headcover gasket, and some special tools (see text)will be required. If the timing belt is beingremoved for the first time since the vehicle leftthe factory, a tensioner spring and retainingpin must be obtained for fitting on reassembly.1 With the vehicle parked on firm levelground, open the bonnet and disconnect thebattery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,Section 1.2 Slacken the water pump pulley bolts.3 Remove the cylinder head cover (seeSection 5).4 Remove the spark plugs, covering theirholes with clean rag, to prevent dirt or otherforeign bodies from dropping in (see Chap-ter 1).5 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-ter 1).6 Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until thesecond pair of notches in the pulley rim alignwith the edge of the sump mark, so that Nos 1and 4 cylinders are at TDC (see Section 4).7 Unbolt and remove the water pump pulleyand the auxiliary drivebelt idler pulley.8 Obtain Ford service tool 21-162, orfabricate a substitute from a strip of metal 5 mm thick (while the strip’s thickness iscritical, its length and width are not, butshould be approximately 180 to 230 mm by20 to 30 mm). Check that Nos 1 and 4cylinders are at Top Dead Centre (TDC) - No 1

on the compression stroke - by resting thistool on the cylinder head mating surface, andsliding it into the slot in the left-hand end ofboth camshafts (see illustration). The toolshould slip snugly into both slots while restingon the cylinder head mating surface; if onecamshaft is only slightly out of alignment, it ispermissible to use an open-ended spanner torotate the camshaft gently and carefully untilthe tool will fit.9 If both camshaft slots (they are machinedsignificantly off-centre) are below the level ofthe cylinder head mating surface, rotate thecrankshaft through one full turn clockwise andfit the tool again; it should now fit asdescribed in the previous paragraph.10 With the camshaft aligning tool remainingin place, remove the crankshaft pulley. Do notuse the locked camshafts to prevent thecrankshaft from rotating - use only the lockingmethod described in Section 8.11 Remove the timing belt lower and middlecovers (see Section 9).12 With the camshaft-aligning tool still inplace, slacken the tensioner bolt, and use anAllen key inserted into its centre to rotate thetensioner clockwise as far as possible awayfrom the belt; retighten the bolt to secure thetensioner clear of the timing belt (seeillustration).13 If the timing belt is to be re-used, usewhite paint or similar to mark its direction ofrotation, and note from the manufacturer’smarkings which way round it is fitted.Withdraw the belt. Do not rotate thecrankshaft until the timing belt is refitted.14 If the belt is being removed for reasonsother than routine renewal, check it carefullyfor any signs of uneven wear, splitting, cracks(especially at the roots of the belt teeth) orcontamination with oil or coolant. Renew thebelt if there is the slightest doubt about itscondition. As a safety measure, the belt mustbe renewed as a matter of course at theintervals given in Chapter 1; if its history isunknown, the belt should be renewedirrespective of its apparent conditionwhenever the engine is overhauled. Similarly,check the tensioner spring (where fitted),renewing it if there is any doubt about its

condition. Check also the toothed pulleys forsigns of wear or damage, and ensure that thetensioner and guide pulleys rotate smoothlyon their bearings; renew any worn ordamaged components. If signs of oil orcoolant contamination are found, trace thesource of the leak and rectify it, then washdown the engine timing belt area and relatedcomponents, to remove all traces of oil orcoolant.15 On reassembly, temporarily refit thecrankshaft pulley, to check that the pulleynotches and sump rib are aligned asdescribed in paragraph 6 above, then ensurethat both camshafts are aligned at TDC by thespecial tool (paragraph 8). If the engine isbeing reassembled after major dismantling,both camshaft toothed pulleys should be freeto rotate on their respective camshafts; if thetiming belt alone is being renewed, bothpulleys should still be securely fastened.16 A holding tool will be required to preventthe camshaft toothed pulleys from rotatingwhile their bolts are slackened andretightened; either obtain Ford service tool15-030A, or fabricate a substitute as follows.Find two lengths of steel strip, oneapproximately 600 mm long and the otherabout 200 mm, and three bolts with nuts andwashers; one nut and bolt forming the pivot ofa forked tool, with the remaining nuts andbolts at the tips of the “forks”, to engage withthe pulley spokes as shown in theaccompanying illustrations. Note: Do not usethe camshaft-aligning tool (whether genuineFord or not) to prevent rotation while thecamshaft toothed pulley bolts are slackenedor tightened; the risk of damage to thecamshaft concerned and to the cylinder headis far too great. Use only a forked holding toolapplied directly to the pulleys, as described.17 If it is being fitted for the first time, screwthe timing belt tensioner spring retaining pininto the cylinder head, tightening it to thespecified torque wrench setting. Unbolt thetensioner, hook the spring on to the pin andthe tensioner backplate, then refit thetensioner, engaging its backplate on thelocating peg (see illustrations).18 In all cases, slacken the tensioner bolt (if


10.17A Fitting tensioner spring retainingpin

10.12 Slacken tensioner bolt, and useAllen key to rotate tensioner away from

timing belt

10.8 Fit camshaft-aligning tool to ensureengine is locked with Nos 1 and 4 cylinders

at TDC

necessary), and use an Allen key inserted intoits centre to rotate the tensioner clockwise asfar as possible against spring tension, thenretighten the bolt to secure the tensioner (seeillustration).19 Fit the timing belt; if the original is beingrefitted, ensure that the marks and notesmade on removal are followed, so that the beltis refitted the same way round, and to run inthe same direction. Starting at the crankshafttoothed pulley, work anti-clockwise aroundthe camshaft toothed pulleys and tensioner,finishing off at the rear guide pulley. The frontrun, between the crankshaft and the exhaustcamshaft toothed pulleys, must be kept taut,without altering the position either of thecrankshaft or of the camshaft(s) - if necessary,the position of the camshaft toothed pulleyscan be altered by rotating each on itscamshaft (which remains fixed by the aligningtool). Where the pulley is still fastened, use theholding tool described in paragraph 16 aboveto prevent the pulley from rotating while itsretaining bolt is slackened - the pulley canthen be rotated on the camshaft until the beltwill slip into place; retighten the pulley bolt.20 When the belt is in place, slacken thetensioner bolt gently until the spring pulls thetensioner against the belt; the tensionershould be retained correctly against the timingbelt inner shield and cylinder head, but mustbe just free to respond to changes in belttension (see illustration).21 Tighten both camshaft toothed pulleybolts (or check that they are tight, asapplicable) and remove the camshaft-aligningtool. Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,

and rotate the crankshaft through two fullturns clockwise to settle and tension thetiming belt, returning the crankshaft (pulleynotches) to the position described inparagraph 6 above. Refit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slip into place asdescribed in paragraph 8. If all is well,proceed to paragraph 24 below.22 If one camshaft is only just out of line, fitthe forked holding tool to its toothed pulley,adjust its position as required, and check thatany slack created has been taken up by thetensioner; rotate the crankshaft through twofurther turns clockwise, and refit thecamshaft-aligning tool to check that it now fitsas it should. If all is well, proceed toparagraph 24 below.23 If either camshaft is significantly out ofline, use the holding tool described inparagraph 16 above to prevent its pulley fromrotating while its retaining bolt is slackened -the camshaft can then be rotated (gently andcarefully, using an open-ended spanner) untilthe camshaft-aligning tool will slip into place;take care not to disturb the relationship of thepulley to the timing belt. Without disturbingthe pulley’s new position on the camshaft,tighten the pulley bolt to its specified torquewrench setting (see illustration). Remove thecamshaft-aligning tool, rotate the crankshaftthrough two further turns clockwise, and refitthe tool to check that it now fits as it should.24 When the timing belt has been settled atits correct tension, and the camshaft-aligningtool fits correctly when the crankshaft pulleynotches are exactly aligned, tighten thetensioner bolt to its specified torque wrench

setting (see illustration). Fitting the forkedholding tool to the spokes of each pulley inturn, check that the pulley bolts are tightenedto their specified torque wrench setting.Remove the camshaft-aligning tool, rotate thecrankshaft through two further turnsclockwise, and refit the tool to make a finalcheck that it fits as it should.25 The remainder of the reassemblyprocedure is the reverse of removal, ensuringthat all fasteners are tightened to the specifiedtorque.

11 Timing belt tensioner andtoothed pulleys - removal,inspection and refitting

4TensionerNote: If the tensioner is being removed for thefirst time since the vehicle left the factory, atensioner spring and retaining pin must beobtained for fitting on reassembly.1 While it is possible to reach the tensioneronce the timing belt upper and middle coversonly have been removed (see Section 9), thewhole procedure outlined below must befollowed, to ensure that the valve timing iscorrectly reset once the belt’s tension hasbeen disturbed.2 Release the tension from the timing belt asdescribed in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.3 Unscrew the tensioner bolt and withdrawthe tensioner, unhooking the spring, if fitted(see illustration). Check the tensioner andspring as described in paragraph 14 ofSection 10.


10.20 Slacken tensioner bolt to give initialbelt tension

11.3 Removing timing belt tensioner10.24 When setting is correct, tighten

tensioner bolt to specified torque wrenchsetting

10.23 Using forked holding tool whilecamshaft toothed pulley bolt is tightened

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10.18 . . . then use Allen key to positiontensioner so that timing belt can be

refitted

10.17B Hook spring onto tensioner andrefit as shown - engage tensioner

backplate on locating peg (arrowed) . . .

4 On reassembly, if it is being fitted for thefirst time, screw the timing belt tensionerspring retaining pin into the cylinder head,tightening it to the specified torque wrenchsetting. Hook the spring onto the pin and thetensioner backplate, then refit the tensioner,engaging its backplate on the locating peg.5 Use an Allen key inserted into its centre torotate the tensioner clockwise as far aspossible against spring tension, then tightenthe bolt to secure the tensioner.6 Reassemble, checking the camshaftalignment (valve timing) and setting the timingbelt tension, as described in paragraphs 20 to25 of Section 10.

Camshaft and crankshafttoothed pulleys7 While it may be possible to remove any ofthese pulleys once the relevant belt covershave been removed, the complete timing beltremoval/refitting procedure (see Section 10)must be followed, to ensure that the valvetiming is correctly reset once the belt’stension has been disturbed.8 With the timing belt removed, the camshafttoothed pulleys can be detached once theirretaining bolts have been unscrewed asdescribed in paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section10. The crankshaft toothed pulley can bepulled off the end of the crankshaft, once thecrankshaft (grooved) pulley and the timing belthave been removed. Note the “FRONT”marking identifying the pulley’s outboard face,and the thrustwasher behind it; note whichway round the thrustwasher is fitted (seeillustration). Note the pulley-locatingWoodruff key; if this is loose, it should beremoved for safe storage with the pulley.9 Check the pulleys as described inparagraph 14 of Section 10.10 Refitting is the reverse of the removalprocedure.

Timing belt guide pulleys11 Remove the timing belt covers (seeSection 9).12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); checktheir condition as described in paragraph 14of Section 10.13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal

procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting (seeillustration).

12 Camshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Note: While it is possible to reach either oilseal, once the respective toothed pulley hasbeen removed (see Section 11) to allow theseal to be prised out, this procedure is notrecommended. Not only are the seals verysoft, making this difficult to do without risk ofdamage to the seal housing, but it would bevery difficult to ensure that the valve timingand the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed,are correctly reset. Owners are advised tofollow the whole procedure outlined below.1 Release the tension from the timing belt asdescribed in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.Note: If the timing belt is found to becontaminated by oil, remove it completely asdescribed, then renew the oil seal (see below).Wash down the engine timing belt area and allrelated components, to remove all traces ofoil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off thetoothed pulley, taking care not to twist it toosharply; use the fingers only to handle thebelt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until thetiming belt is refitted. Cover the belt, andsecure it so that it is clear of the working area

and cannot slip off the remaining toothedpulley.3 Unfasten the pulley bolt and withdraw thepulley (see Section 11).4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearingcap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.Clean the seal housing, and polish off anyburrs or raised edges, which may havecaused the seal to fail in the first place.5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the useof their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt (10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and awasher, to draw the seal into place when thecamshaft bearing cap is bolted down; asubstitute can be made using a suitablesocket (see illustration). Grease the seal lipsand periphery to ease installation, and drawthe seal into place until it is flush with thehousing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the bearing cap, using sealant and tighteningthe cap bolts as described in Section 13.6 For most owners, the simplest answer willbe to grease the seal lips, and to slide it ontothe camshaft (until it is flush with thehousing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,using sealant and tightening the cap bolts asdescribed in Section 13 (see illustration).Take care to ensure that the seal remainsabsolutely square in its housing, and is notdistorted as the cap is tightened down.7 Refit the pulley to the camshaft, tighteningthe retaining bolt loosely, then slip the timingbelt back onto the pulley (refer to para-graphs 16 and 19 of Section 10) and tightenthe bolt securely.8 The remainder of the reassemblyprocedure, including checking the camshaftalignment (valve timing) and setting the timingbelt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20to 25 of Section 10.

13 Camshafts and hydraulictappets - removal, inspectionand refitting

4Removal1 Release the tension from the timing belt asdescribed in Section 10, paragraphs 1 to 12.2 Either remove the timing belt completely(Section 10, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it


12.6 Alternatively, seal can be insertedwhen camshaft bearing cap is unbolted

12.5 Using socket and toothed pulley boltto install camshaft oil seal

11.13 Tighten timing belt guide pulleybolts to specified torque settings on

refitting

11.8 Note “FRONT” marking on outsideface of crankshaft toothed pulley - notewhich way round thrustwasher behind is

fitted

off the camshaft toothed pulleys, taking carenot to twist it too sharply; use the fingers onlyto handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secureit so that it is clear of the working area. Do notrotate the crankshaft until the timing belt isrefitted.3 Unfasten the pulley bolts as described inSection 10, paragraphs 16 and 19, andwithdraw the pulleys; while both are the sameand could be interchanged, it is good workingpractice to mark them so that each is refittedonly to its original location (see illustration).4 Working in the sequence shown, slackenprogressively, by half a turn at a time, thecamshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).Work only as described, to release graduallyand evenly the pressure of the valve springson the caps.5 Withdraw the caps, noting their markingsand the presence of the locating dowels, thenremove the camshafts and withdraw their oilseals. The inlet camshaft can be identified bythe reference lobe for the camshaft positionsensor; therefore, there is no need to mark thecamshafts (see illustrations).6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, andnumber them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker,withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invertit to prevent oil loss, and place it in itsrespective container, which should then befilled with clean engine oil (see illustrations).Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, orthe rate of wear will be much increased. Donot allow them to lose oil, or they will take a

long time to refill on restarting the engine,resulting in incorrect valve clearances.

Inspection7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappetsremoved, check each for signs of obviouswear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, andrenew if necessary.8 Measure the outside diameter of eachtappet (see illustration) - take measurementsat the top and bottom of each tappet, then asecond set at right-angles to the first; if anymeasurement is significantly different from theothers, the tappet is tapered or oval (asapplicable) and must be renewed. If thenecessary equipment is available, measurethe inside diameter of the correspondingcylinder head bore. Compare themeasurements obtained to those given in theSpecifications Section of this Chapter; if thetappets or the cylinder head bores areexcessively worn, new tappets and/or a newcylinder head will be required.9 If the engine’s valve components havesounded noisy, particularly if the noisepersists after initial start-up from cold, there isreason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet.Only a good mechanic experienced in theseengines can tell whether the noise level istypical, or if renewal of one or more of thetappets is warranted. If faulty tappets arediagnosed, and the engine’s service history isunknown, it is always worth trying the effect of

renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chapter1), using only good-quality engine oil of therecommended viscosity and specification,before going to the expense of renewing anyof the tappets - refer also to the advice inSection 1 of this Chapter.10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes forscore marks, pitting, galling (wear due torubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue,discoloured areas). Look for flaking away ofthe hardened surface layer of each lobe. If anysuch signs are evident, renew the componentconcerned.11 Examine the camshaft bearing journalsand the cylinder head bearing surfaces forsigns of obvious wear or pitting. If any suchsigns are evident, renew the componentconcerned.


13.5A Note locating dowels whenremoving camshaft bearing caps

13.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackeningsequence

Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showingbearing cap numbers

13.3 Using forked holding tool whilecamshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened

13.8 Use a micrometer to measurediameter of hydraulic tappets

13.6B Hydraulic tappets must be stored asdescribed in text

13.6A Removing hydraulic tappets

13.5B Inlet camshaft has lobe forcamshaft position sensor

2C

12 Using a micrometer, measure thediameter of each journal at several points. Ifthe diameter of any one journal is less than the specified value, renew the cam-shaft.13 To check the bearing journal runningclearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, usea suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag toclean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refitthe camshafts and bearing caps with a strandof Plastigage across each journal. Tighten thebearing cap bolts to the specified torquewrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts),then remove the bearing caps and use thescale provided to measure the width of thecompressed strands. Scrape off thePlastigage with your fingernail or the edge of acredit card - don’t scratch or nick the journalsor bearing caps.14 If the running clearance of any bearing isfound to be worn to beyond the specifiedservice limits, fit a new camshaft and repeatthe check; if the clearance is still excessive,the cylinder head must be renewed.15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove thehydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfacescarefully, and refit the camshafts and bearingcaps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting, thenmeasure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial TestIndicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the

cylinder head so that its tip bears on thecamshaft right-hand end.16 Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fullyaway from the gauge, and note the gaugereading. If the endfloat measured is found tobe at or beyond the specified service limit, fita new camshaft and repeat the check; if theclearance is still excessive, the cylinder headmust be renewed.

Refitting17 On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinderhead hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets(see illustration). Note that if new tappets arebeing fitted, they must be charged with cleanengine oil before installation. Carefully refit thetappets to the cylinder head, ensuring thateach tappet is refitted to its original bore, andis the correct way up. Some care will berequired to enter the tappets squarely intotheir bores.18 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings andlobes. Ensuring that each camshaft is in itsoriginal location, refit the camshafts, locatingeach so that the slot in its left-hand end isapproximately parallel to, and just above, thecylinder head mating surface.19 Ensure that the locating dowels arepressed firmly into their recesses, and checkthat all mating surfaces are completely clean,unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin filmof suitable sealant (Ford recommend Loctite 518) to the mating surfaces of each

camshaft’s right-hand bearing cap (seeillustration). Referring to paragraph 6 ofSection 12, some owners may wish to fit thenew camshaft oil seals at this stage.20 All camshaft bearing caps have a single-digit identifying number etched on them (seeillustration). The exhaust camshaft’s bearingcaps are numbered in sequence 0 (right-handcap) to 4 (left-hand cap), the inlet’s 5 (right-hand cap) to 9 (left-hand cap); see illus-tration 13.21 for details. Each cap is to be fittedso that its numbered side faces outwards, tothe front (exhaust) or to the rear (inlet).21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square tothe cylinder head as it is tightened down, andworking in the sequence shown, tighten thecamshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by oneturn at a time, until each cap touches thecylinder head (see illustration). Next, goround again in the same sequence, tighteningthe bolts to the first stage torque wrenchsetting specified, then once more, tighteningthem to the second stage setting. Work onlyas described, to impose gradually and evenlythe pressure of the valve springs on the caps.Fit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slipinto place as described in paragraph 8 ofSection 10 (see illustration).22 Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that noneis left to find its way into any oilways. Followthe sealant manufacturer’s instructions as tothe time needed for curing; usually, at least anhour must be allowed between application ofthe sealant and starting the engine.23 If using Ford’s recommended procedure,fit new oil seals to the camshafts as describedin paragraph 5 of Section 12.24 Using the marks and notes made ondismantling to ensure that each is refitted toits original camshaft, refit the toothed pulleysto the camshafts, tightening the retainingbolts loosely. Slip the timing belt back ontothe pulleys (refer to paragraph 19 of Sec-tion 10) and tighten the bolts securely - usethe forked holding tool described inparagraph 16 of Section 10.25 The remainder of the reassemblyprocedure, including checking the camshaftalignment (valve timing) and setting the timingbelt tension, is as described in paragraphs 15to 25 of Section 10.


13.21B Fit camshaft-aligning tool to setTDC position while camshaft toothed

pulleys are refitted

13.21A Camshaft bearing cap tighteningsequence

Note: View from front of vehicle - locatebearing caps according to etched numbers,

aligned as described in text

13.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearingcaps must be arranged as shown, and face

outwards

13.19 Apply sealant to mating surface ofcamshaft right-hand bearing caps

13.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulictappets

14 Cylinder head - removal and refitting 4

RemovalNote: The following text assumes that thecylinder head will be removed with both inletand exhaust manifolds attached. Thissimplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulkyand heavy assembly to handle - an enginehoist will be required, to prevent the risk ofinjury, and to prevent damage to any delicatecomponents as the assembly is removed andrefitted. If it is wished first to remove themanifolds, proceed as described in Sections 6and 7 of this Chapter; amend the followingprocedure accordingly.1 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chap-ter 4B).2 With the vehicle parked on firm levelground, open the bonnet and disconnect thebattery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,Section 1.3 Whenever you disconnect any vacuumlines, coolant and emissions hoses, wiringloom connectors, earth straps and fuel linesas part of the following procedure, alwayslabel them clearly, so that they can becorrectly reassembled. Masking tape and/or atouch-up paint applicator work well formarking items. Take instant photos, or sketchthe locations of components and brackets.4 Refer to Chapter 4B and remove the air inlethose and inlet duct.5 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank byremoving the filler cap, then undo the fuelfeed and return lines connecting the engine tothe chassis (see Chapter 4B). Plug or cap allopen fittings.6 Disconnect the accelerator cable from thethrottle linkage as described in Chapter 4B.Secure the cable clear of the engine/transmission.7 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chapter 1).8 Refer to Chapter 10 and remove the powersteering pump. Releasing its wire clip, unplugthe power steering pressure switch electricalconnector, then unbolt the earth lead from the

cylinder head rear support plate/engine liftingeye.9 Remove the three screws securing thewiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.Releasing its wire clip, unplug the largeelectrical connector (next to the fuel pressureregulator) to disconnect the engine wiringfrom the main loom (see illustration). Unplugthe electrical connectors on each side of theignition coil, and the single connector frombeneath the front of the thermostat housing,to disconnect the coil and coolanttemperature gauge sender wiring (seeillustration).10 Marking or labelling them as they areunplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses asfollows:a) One from the rear of the throttle housing

(only the one hose - there is no need todisconnect the second hose running tothe fuel pressure regulator).

b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’sleft-hand end.

c) The braking system vacuum servo unithose (see Chapter 9 for details).

11 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifoldheat shield. Either remove the dipstick andtube, or swing them out of the way.12 Unscrew the single bolt securing thepulse-air filter housing to the engine/transmission front mounting bracket, thendisconnect its vacuum hose.13 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).14 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thethermostat housing (see illustration).15 Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect theexhaust system front downpipe from themanifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygensensor wiring, so that it is not strained by theweight of the exhaust system.16 Support the weight of the engine/transmission using a trolley jack, with awooden spacer to prevent damage to thesump.17 Remove the timing belt and bothcamshafts (see Sections 10 and 13); if thecylinder head is to be dismantled, withdrawthe hydraulic tappets.18 Remove the timing belt inner shield (seeSection 9).

19 Working in the reverse of the sequenceshown in illustration 14.30A, slacken the tencylinder head bolts progressively and by oneturn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will berequired. Remove each bolt in turn, andensure that new replacements are obtainedfor reassembly; these bolts are subjected tosevere stresses and so must be renewed,regardless of their apparent condition,whenever they are disturbed.20 Lift the cylinder head away; useassistance if possible, as it is a heavyassembly. Remove the gasket, noting the twodowels, and discard it.

Refitting21 The mating faces of the cylinder head andcylinder block must be perfectly clean beforerefitting the head. Use a hard plastic or woodscraper to remove all traces of gasket andcarbon; also clean the piston crowns. Takeparticular care, as the soft aluminium alloy iseasily damaged. Also, make sure that thecarbon is not allowed to enter the oil andwater passages - this is particularly importantfor the lubrication system, as carbon couldblock the oil supply to any of the engine’scomponents. Using adhesive tape and paper,seal the water, oil and bolt holes in thecylinder block. Clean all the pistons in thesame way.

22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock and the cylinder head for nicks, deepscratches and other damage. If slight, theymay be removed carefully with a file, but ifexcessive, machining may be the onlyalternative to renewal.23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasketsurface is suspected, use a straight edge to


14.14 Disconnect all coolant hoses fromthermostat housing

14.9B Unplug connectors (arrowed) todisconnect ignition coil wiring

14.9A Unplug engine wiring loomconnector alongside the inlet manifold

2C

To prevent carbon enteringthe gap between the pistonsand bores, smear a littlegrease in the gap. After

cleaning each piston, use a small brushto remove all traces of grease andcarbon from the gap, then wipe awaythe remainder with a clean rag.

check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of thisChapter, if necessary.24 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of thecylinder head and cylinder block. Check thatthe two locating dowels are in position in thecylinder block, and that all cylinder head boltholes are free from oil.25 Position a new gasket over the dowels onthe cylinder block surface, so that the“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with thetooth (or teeth, according to engine size)protruding from the front edge (seeillustration).26 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so

that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered toapproximately 20 mm before TDC, thusavoiding any risk of valve/piston contact anddamage during reassembly.27 As the cylinder head is such a heavy andawkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it ishelpful to make up a pair of guide studs fromtwo 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in oneend - two old cylinder head bolts with theirheads cut off would make a good startingpoint. Screw these guide studs, screwdriverslot upwards to permit removal, into the boltholes at diagonally-opposite corners of thecylinder block surface (or into those where thelocating dowels are fitted, as shown); ensurethat approximately 70 mm of stud protrudesabove the gasket.28 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down theguide studs (if used) and locating it on thedowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)when the head is in place.29 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry (do notoil their threads); carefully enter each into itshole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-tight.30 Working progressively and in thesequence shown, use first a torque wrench,then an ordinary socket extension bar and anangle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head boltsin the stages given in the SpecificationsSection of this Chapter (see illustrations).Note: Once tightened correctly, following thisprocedure, the cylinder head bolts do notrequire check-tightening, and must not be re-torqued.31 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),the camshafts, their oil seals and pulleys (seeSections 10, 11, 12 and 13, as appropriate).Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, androtate the crankshaft clockwise to return thepulley notches to the position described inparagraph 6 of Section 10.32 Refit the timing belt and covers, checkingthe camshaft alignment (valve timing) andsetting the timing belt tension, as described inSection 10.33 The remainder of reassembly is thereverse of the removal procedure, noting thefollowing points:a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.

b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up theengine oil.

c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oilor coolant leakage, once the engine hasbeen restarted and warmed-up to normaloperating temperature.

d) If the power steering hoses wheredisconnected, bleed the system asdescribed in Chapter 10 afterreconnection.

15 Sump - removal and refitting 2RemovalNote: The full procedure outlined below mustbe followed, so that the mating surfaces canbe cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-tight joint on reassembly, and so that thesump can be aligned correctly; depending onyour skill and experience, and the tools andfacilities available, it may be that this task canbe carried out only with the engine removedfrom the vehicle. Note that the sump gasketmust be renewed whenever it is disturbed.1 With the vehicle parked on firm levelground, open the bonnet and disconnect thebattery negative (earth) lead - see Chapter 5,Section 1.2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit theengine oil drain plug, tightening it to thespecified torque wrench setting. Although notstrictly necessary as part of the dismantlingprocedure, owners are advised to remove anddiscard the oil filter, so that it can be renewedwith the oil (see Chapter 1).3 Refer to Chapter 5 and remove the startermotor.4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (seeChapter 1).5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) todisconnect the oxygen sensor.6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect theexhaust system front downpipe from themanifold, then either unhook all the system’srubber mountings and withdraw the completeexhaust system from under the vehicle, orremove only the downpipe/catalytic converter(see Chapter 4B for details).7 Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,also any securing the engine/transmissionlower adapter plate.8 Progressively unscrew the sump retainingbolts. Break the joint by striking the sump withthe palm of the hand, then lower the sumpand withdraw it with the engine/transmissionlower adapter plate (where fitted); note thepresence of any shims between the sump andtransmission.9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; thismust be renewed as a matter of coursewhenever it is disturbed.10 While the sump is removed, take theopportunity to remove the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-tion 16).


14.30C . . . and to Stage 3 using anglegauge

14.30B Tightening cylinder head bolts(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .

14.30A Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence

Note: View from rear of vehicle

14.25 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth)“A” are at front and marking “B” is

upwards, locate new cylinder head gasketon dowels “C”

Refitting11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean anddegrease the mating surfaces of the cylinderblock/crankcase and sump, then use a cleanrag to wipe out the sump and the engine’sinterior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipewas removed, fit a new gasket and refit thepipe, tightening its screws to the specifiedtorque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket tothe sump mating surface so that the gasketfits into the sump groove (see illustration).12 If the sump is being refitted with theengine/transmission still connected and in thevehicle, proceed as follows:a) Check that the mating surfaces of the

sump, the cylinder block/crankcase andthe transmission are absolutely clean andflat. Any shims found on removal of thesump must be refitted in their originallocations.

b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Fordrecommend Hylosil 102) to the junctionsof the cylinder block/crankcase with theoil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oilseal carrier. Without delay - the sumpbolts must be fully tightened within 10 to20 minutes of applying the sealant - offerup the sump and engine/transmissionlower adapter plate, and refit the bolts,tightening them lightly at first.

c) Ensuring that the engine/transmissionlower adapter plate is correctly located,firmly press the sump against thetransmission, and tighten the

transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts tothe specified torque wrench setting.

d) Without disturbing the position of thesump, and working in a diagonalsequence from the centre outwards,tighten the sump bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench setting.

e) Proceed to paragraph 14.13 If the sump is being refitted with theengine and transmission separated (in or outof the vehicle), proceed as follows:a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford

recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctionsof the cylinder block/crankcase with theoil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oilseal carrier (see illustration). Withoutdelay - the sump bolts must be fullytightened within 10 to 20 minutes ofapplying the sealant - offer up the sumpto the cylinder block/crankcase, andinsert the sump bolts, tightening themlightly at first.

b) Using a suitable straight edge to checkalignment across the flat-machined facesof each, move the sump as necessary sothat its left-hand face - including anyshims found on removal - is flush withthat of the cylinder block/crankcase (seeillustration). Without disturbing theposition of the sump, and working in adiagonal sequence from the centreoutwards, tighten the sump bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting.

c) Check again that both faces are flushbefore proceeding; if necessary, unboltthe sump again, clean the mating

surfaces, and repeat the full procedure toensure that the sump is correctly aligned.

d) If it is not possible to achieve exactalignment by moving the sump, shims areavailable in thicknesses of 0.25 mm(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy(see illustration).

14 The remainder of reassembly is thereverse of the removal procedure, noting thefollowing points.a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench

settings specified.b) Always renew any self-locking nuts

disturbed on removal.c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).d) Refill the engine with oil, remembering

that you are advised to fit a new filter (seeChapter 1).

e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaksonce the engine has been restarted andwarmed-up to normal operatingtemperature.

16 Oil pump - removal,inspection and refitting 4

RemovalNote: While this task is theoretically possiblewhen the engine is in place in the vehicle, inpractice, it requires so much preliminarydismantling, and is so difficult to carry out dueto the restricted access, that owners areadvised to remove the engine from the vehiclefirst. Note, however, that the oil pumppressure relief valve can be removed with theengine in situ - see paragraph 8.1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 10).2 Withdraw the crankshaft toothed pulley andthe thrustwasher behind it, noting which wayround the thrustwasher is fitted (see Sec-tion 11).3 Remove the sump (see Section 15).4 Undo the screws securing the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, thenunscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pumppick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinderblock/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw


15.13B Checking alignment of sump withcylinder block/crankcase

15.13A Apply sealant (arrowed) asdirected when refitting sump

15.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly insump groove

16.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to removeoil pump

15.13C Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcasealignment shims

1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim

2C

and discard the gasket, and remove thecrankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughlyclean and degrease all components,particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.

Inspection6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove thepump cover plate; noting any identificationmarks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (seeillustration).7 Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wearor damage, and renew if necessary; if eitherrotor, the pump body, or its cover plate arescored or damaged, the complete oil pumpassembly must be renewed.

8 The oil pressure relief valve can bedismantled, if required, without disturbing thepump. With the vehicle parked on firm levelground, apply the handbrake securely andraise its front end, supporting it securely onaxle stands. Remove the front right-handroadwheel and auxiliary drivebelt cover (seeChapter 1) to provide access to the valve.9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recoverthe valve spring and plunger (seeillustrations). If the plug’s sealing O-ring isworn or damaged, a new one must beobtained, to be fitted on reassembly.10 Reassembly is the reverse of thedismantling procedure; ensure the spring andvalve are refitted the correct way round, andtighten the threaded plug securely.

Refitting11 The oil pump must be primed oninstallation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.12 Using grease to stick the new gasket inplace on the cylinder block/crankcase, androtating the pump’s inner rotor to align withthe flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump andinsert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first(see illustration).13 Using a suitable straight edge and feelergauges, check that the pump is both centredexactly around the crankshaft, and alignedsquarely so that its (sump) mating surface isexactly the same amount - between 0.3 and0.8 mm - below that of the cylinderblock/crankcase on each side of the

crankshaft (see illustration). Being carefulnot to disturb the gasket, move the pump intothe correct position, and tighten its bolts tothe specified torque wrench setting.14 Check that the pump is correctly located;if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat thefull procedure to ensure that the pump iscorrectly aligned.15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal(see Section 17).16 Using grease to stick the gasket in placeon the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,tightening its screws and nut to their specifiedtorque wrench settings (see illustration).17 The remainder of reassembly is thereverse of the removal procedure, referring tothe relevant text for details where required.

17 Crankshaft oil seals - renewal 4

Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out withoutremoving the oil pump or seal carrier - theseals are too soft, and the amount of spaceavailable is too small, for this to be possiblewithout considerable risk of damage to the sealhousing and/or the crankshaft journal. Followexactly the procedure given below.

Right-hand seal1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 16).2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump frombehind (see illustration).


17.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oilseal

16.16 Use new gasket when refitting oilpick-up pipe to pump

16.13 Oil pump must be centred oncrankshaft, and square to cylinder block/crankcase-to-sump mating surface - usestraight edge and feeler gauges to check

that pump surface is an equal amount(within permissible limits) below crankcase

surface on both sides of crankshaft

16.12 Use new gasket when refitting oilpump

16.9B . . . to withdraw oil pressure reliefvalve spring and plunger

16.9A Unscrew threaded plug - seenthrough right-hand wheel arch . . .

16.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor

3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,polishing off any burrs or raised edges, whichmay have caused the seal to fail in the firstplace.4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 16). Greasethe lips and periphery of the new seal, to easeinstallation.5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the useof their service tool 21-093A, with thecrankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal intoplace; an alternative can be arranged using asocket of suitable size, with a washer tomatch the crankshaft pulley bolt (seeillustration).6 If such tools are not available, press the

seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in untilit is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-faced mallet and a socket with an outsidediameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s(see illustration). This approach requiresgreat care, to ensure that the seal is fittedsquarely, without distortion or damage.7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder ofreassembly is the reverse of the removalprocedure, referring to the relevant text fordetails where required. Check for signs of oilleakage when the engine is restarted.

Left-hand seal8 Remove the transmission (see the relevantPart of Chapter 7).9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch(Chapter 8).10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (seeSection 18).11 Remove the sump (see Section 15).12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (seeillustration). Remove and discard its gasket.13 Supporting the carrier evenly on woodenblocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier frombehind (see illustration).14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,polishing off any burrs or raised edges, whichmay have caused the seal to fail in the first

place. Clean also the mating surfaces of thecylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using ascraper to remove all traces of the old gasket- be careful not to scratch or damage thematerial of either - then use a suitable solventto degrease them.15 Use grease to stick the new gasket inplace on the cylinder block/crankcase, thenoffer up the carrier (see illustration).16 Using a suitable straight edge and feelergauges, check that the carrier is both centredexactly around the crankshaft, and alignedsquarely so that its (sump) mating surface isexactly the same amount - between 0.3 and0.8 mm - below that of the cylinderblock/crankcase on each side of thecrankshaft. Being careful not to disturb thegasket, move the carrier into the correctposition, and tighten its bolts to the specifiedtorque wrench setting (see illustration).17 Check that the carrier is correctly located;if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat thefull procedure to ensure that the carrier iscorrectly aligned.18 Ford’s recommended method of sealfitting is to use service tool 21-141, with twoflywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. Ifthis is not available, make up a guide from athin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate thelips of the new seal and the crankshaftshoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over thecrankshaft shoulder (see illustration). Press


17.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to removecrankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .

17.13 . . . and ensure that carrier isproperly supported when driving out usedoil seal - note notches provided in carrier

for drift

17.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown,exercise great care to prevent seal from

being damaged or distorted

17.5 Socket of correct size can be used toreplace Ford service tool, drawing new

seal into place as described

17.18 Using guide made from thin sheet ofplastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft

shoulder

17.16 Oil seal carrier must be centred oncrankshaft, and square to cylinder block/crankcase-to-sump mating surface - usestraight edge and feeler gauges to checkthat carrier surface is an equal amount

(within permissible limits) below crankcasesurface on both sides of crankshaft

17.15 Use new gasket when refitting left-hand oil seal carrier

2C

the seal evenly into its housing by hand only,and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap itinto place until it is flush with the surroundinghousing.19 Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; theremainder of the reassembly procedure is thereverse of dismantling, referring to therelevant text for details where required. Checkfor signs of oil leakage when the engine isrestarted.

18 Flywheel/driveplate -removal, inspection andrefitting

3Removal1 Remove the transmission (see the relevantPart of Chapter 7). Now is a good time tocheck components such as oil seals, andrenew them if necessary.2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch(Chapter 8). Now is a good time to check orrenew the clutch components and pilotbearing.3 Use a centre-punch or paint to makealignment marks on the flywheel/driveplateand crankshaft, to ensure correct alignmentduring refitting.4 Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turningby locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting astrap between the flywheel/driveplate and thecylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the boltsevenly until all are free.5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure thatnew replacements are obtained forreassembly; these bolts are subjected tosevere stresses, and so must be renewed,regardless of their apparent condition,whenever they are disturbed.6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatictransmission models only), withdraw theflywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is veryheavy.

Inspection7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to removegrease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.Light scoring can be removed with emery

cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gearteeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flatsurface, and use a straight edge to check forwarpage.8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces ofthe flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. Ifthe crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renewit (see Section 17) before refitting theflywheel/driveplate.9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,particularly the recesses which serve as thereference points for the crankshaftspeed/position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip,and check that the sensor is securelyfastened.

Refitting10 On refitting, ensure that theengine/transmission adapter plate is in place(where necessary), then fit theflywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft so thatall bolt holes align - it will fit only one way -check this using the marks made on removal.Do not forget the reinforcing plate (automatictransmission models).11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by themethod used on dismantling. Working in adiagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,and increasing to the final amount in two orthree stages, tighten the new bolts to thespecified torque wrench setting (seeillustration).12 The remainder of reassembly is thereverse of the removal procedure, referring tothe relevant text for details where required.

19 Engine/transmissionmountings - inspection andrenewal

1General1 The engine/transmission mountings seldomrequire attention, but broken or deterioratedmountings should be renewed immediately, orthe added strain placed on the drivelinecomponents may cause damage or wear.2 The mounting arrangement variesconsiderably depending on whether manual

or automatic transmission is fitted, and ifmanual transmission is fitted, whether it is theBC type or MTX-75 type. This also has asignificant bearing on the amount ofperipheral dismantling necessary for accessto the mountings, which will have to beassessed according to model.

Inspection3 During the check, the engine/transmissionmust be raised slightly, to remove its weightfrom the mountings.4 Raise the front of the vehicle, and support itsecurely on axle stands. Position a jack underthe sump, with a large block of wood betweenthe jack head and the sump, then carefullyraise the engine/transmission just enough totake the weight off the mountings.

Warning: DO NOT place any partof your body under the enginewhen it is supported only by ajack!

5 Check the mountings to see if the rubber iscracked, hardened or separated from themetal components. Sometimes, the rubberwill split right down the centre.6 Check for relative movement between eachmounting’s brackets and the engine/transmission or body (use a large screwdriveror lever to attempt to move the mountings). Ifmovement is noted, lower the engine andcheck-tighten the mounting fasteners.

RenewalLeft-hand front mounting7 Position a jack under the transmission, witha block of wood between the jack head andthe sump. Raise the jack to just take theweight off the mounting.8 Undo the two bolts securing the mountingto the body side member, and the two boltssecuring the mounting to the transmissionbracket (see illustration). Withdraw themounting from its location.9 Refitting is the reversal of removal,tightening the retaining bolts to the specifiedtorque.Left-hand rear mounting10 Remove the air cleaner unit as describedin Chapter 4B.


19.12 Engine/transmission left-hand rearmounting and mounting bracket

attachments

19.8 Engine/transmission left-hand frontmounting attachments

18.11 Note “peg” tool used to lockflywheel/driveplate while (new) bolts are

tightened

11 Position a jack under the transmission,with a block of wood between the jack headand the transmission. Raise the jack to justtake the weight off the mounting.12 Undo the nuts and bolts securing themounting brackets to the top of thetransmission and to the mounting itself (seeillustration). Remove the mounting bracketsfrom the transmission.13 Undo the two bolts, one from above andone from below, securing the mounting to thebody. Remove the mounting from under thebrake servo unit.14 Refitting is the reversal of removal, tighteningthe retaining bolts to the specified torque.

Right-hand mounting15 Raise the front of the vehicle, andsecurely support it on axle stands. Forpreference, raise the car on ramps.16 Drain the engine oil, and remove the oilfilter (see Chapter 1).

17 Undo the two upper bolts and one lowerbolt and remove the mounting support brace.18 Undo the two upper nuts securing themounting to the body (see illustration).19 Undo the two lower nuts securing themounting to the engine bracket (see

illustration). Manipulate the mounting,complete with damper weight, out from underthe car.20 Refitting is the reversal of removal,tightening the retaining nuts and bolts to thespecified torque.


19.19 Engine right-hand mounting-to-engine bracket retaining bolts (arrowed)

19.18 Engine right-hand mounting-to-bodyretaining nuts

2C

Automotive

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