Houte Couture（Tinjip）

Handmade's Tale

Haute couture Haute couture refers to exclusive clothing creations. Haute couture is made to order for a specific customer, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finish, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

If a certain dressmaker creates customized clothing for his clientele, can he call the work

haute couture? Some of the requirements are:

Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings. Have a workshop (atelier) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time. Each season, present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear. Despite the efforts of the French government, however, the label haute couture has been rather loosely used by some high fashion designers. As such, there has been some misconception as to what haute couture really is.

Members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute

Couture

Some interesting findings500

Affordable, regular customers

100Hrs, hand-made, embroidery,1000

50Tailors, co-ordination

5Margin of error , millimeter, procedures

3More than, tryons

From Idea to Design

First Draft

Building the Toile

Piecing it Together

No Margin for Error

Down to the Wire

A Perfect Fit

Voilà!

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Revival: This week's Paris couture shows by Dior (left), Chanel (right).

Scenes from Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week, clockwise from top,

Christian Dior, Chanel, Giorgio Armani.

No clothing is more exquisitely crafted – or more expensive – than haute coutureEvery piece of haute couture clothing is the product of hours upon hours of manual labor.

Middle & Low-end marketCase study: Highsun String & Cloth Market

Why do people go to the tailors?

•Size: fits you most

•Personality: differs from others

•Selective: give you more choice

How to make custom-made clothes

Choose the style you want

Buy the cloth you need

Measure your size

Bring the size to the tailor

Who go to the tailors

The elderly: few options in the ready-to wear market

Female: critical

Foreigners : taller and stronger

Tailors

Most come from Zhejiang province.

Have more than ten years experience.

Do not communicate with the customers directly.

They just provide manual work.

The Tailors in ChaozhouTailor shop

Based on a family, with one or two sewing machine, a master and one or two assistants.

can do sewing and also fashion design

urban peoplekeep tailor as a life career.

Some basic introduction

1.Two busy season: late spring and early summer /late

autumn and winter until the eve of Spring Festival.

Two reason

customs of wearing new clothes for the Chinese New Year （ youth ）

elderly people need warm cotton-padded clothes in winter

2. Most of customers are women and children3. Most customers would bring cloths and ideas according to their own experiences4. For those who did not know the clothing amount of their children, tailors would give the amount of body volume measured first.

1950s and 60s with most tailor shops and all ages of consumers

development of garment industry

people's living standards

influx of Hong Kong and Taiwan clothing

clothing market became very active

Not so much requirements but some main type

Development the mid-80s, local tailor shop already passed their prime time, old kind of tailors in Chaoshan are in disappearing

now, only some old people or people with special requirements will come to tailors.

The whole process of making a deal

1.conusmer come to the tailor with cloth 2.bring their ideas and tailor will give advice (details) and assuring the price3. take one's measure4. making signs on the cloth with chalk (some may make model on paper first)5.cut out 6. Covered edge (piping) 7.sewing 8. button sew and side seam9. ironing sometimes try on will make some modify

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button sew: handmade (beautiful Embroidered Button) machine

Make the clothes more neat and smooth

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Clothes styles1950s, the popular dress inculding qipao, tangzhuang, zhongshanzhuang and dajinshan and …1960s, popular with naval officers loaded the clothes, bell-bottoms … Lately, there were jeans, pleated skirt( 百褶裙 )and dress and so on. Many tailors are able to advance with the times, timely grasp the trendy clothing cutting technology to meet the requirements of the majority of customers

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