2012 Intermediate Wine Course 3: Spain

Intermediate Wine Course: III

25 April 2012

Copyright © Brian Jamieson

DOs of Spain (Mainland only) Andalucia

Condado de Huelva; Jerez-Xeres-Sherry; Málaga; Manzanilla Sanlúcar de Barrameda; Montilla-Moriles; Sierras de Málaga

Aragon Calatayud; Campo de Borja;

Cariñena; Somontano Castile-Leon

Arlanza; Arribes; Bierzo; Cigales; Ribera del Duero; Rueda; Tierra de León; Tierra del Vino de Zamora; Toro

Castile-La Mancha Almansa; Dehesa del Carrizal;

Dominio de Valdepusa; Finca Élez; Guijoso; Jumilla; La Mancha; Manchuela; Méntrida; Mondéjar; Ribera del Júcar; Uclés (DO); Valdepeñas

Catalonia Alella; Catalunya; Conca de Barberà;

Costers del Segre; Empordà; Montsant; Penedès; Pla de Bags; Priorat; Tarragona; Terra Alta

Extremadura Ribera del Guadiana

Galicia Monterrei; Rías Baixas; Ribeira Sacra;

Ribeiro; Valdeorras La Rioja (DOCa) Madrid

Vinos de Madrid Navarra Valencia

Alicante; Utiel-Requena; Valencia

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Classification of Spanish wines Vino de Mesa Vino Comarcal – regionally specific

Vino de la Tierra – Spain's answer to French vin de pays

Denominacion de Origen (DO) – equivalent to French AC

Denominacion de Origen e Calificada (DOCa) – only awarded to Rioja & Priorat (DOQ in Catalan!)

Aging: Four Categories

More stringent regulation in Rioja and Ribera del Duero

Joven is wine released the year after vintage which may or may not have been in oak.

Crianza is wine aged for at least two years, at least six months of which was in oak.

Reserva is aged for at least three years, of which at least one year is in oak.

Gran Reserva wines have been aged five years, at least eighteen months in oak and the rest in bottle.

1. Codorniu Seleccion Raventos Brut, NV Méthode Champenoise A modern example of Cava from the

Catalan region of Spain. The Codorníu family have been pioneers in the region since first producing Cava in 1872.

In 1985 incorporated Chardonnay into the blend of traditional grape varieties (Macabeo & Xarel-lo) in order to make a more aromatic style.

Codorniu Seleccion Raventos Brut, NV

Pale lemon - golden colour Good streams of fine bubbles.

(mousse) Peachy and lemon aromas Full bodied, vibrant with fruit

flavours. Crisp mineral acidity. 

2. Torres Viña Esmeralda, DO Penedes, 2010 Torres – a major family-owned

business based in Catalonia Grape variety: 85% Muscat, 15 %

Gewurztraminer Nose: Taste:

Torres Viña Esmeralda, DO Penedes, 2010

Lovely delicate honey and fresh grapefruit characters are tempered by the zip and spice of a little Gewürztraminer.

Compania de Vinos Telmo Rodriguez Telmo Rodríguez, a bright young winemaker”

sees huge, unrealised potential in his own country. Based in Logroño, he is a “driving” winemaker, visiting projects as far flung as Galicia, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Malaga and Jumilla.

3. Gaba do Xil, Godello, DO Valdeorras, 2010 Grape variety: Godello, an indigenous variety The vineyard is called La Falcoeira, in the town of

Santa Cruz An ancient vineyard, planted with a mixture of

varieties, but Telmo Rodriguez has focused its work on the native varieties, Godello and Mencia. 

Telmo believes that the area has enormous potential, and could be one of the great discoveries from the past.

Unoaked, this is made from vines grown on slate and granite soils

Gaba do Xil, Godello, DO Valdeorras, 2010 Colour: Pale straw yellow

Nose: Nose subtle, not very intense, but very frank and fruity. Tropical fruit, apricot, citrus; hint of honey; and soft minerality

Palate: Good texture, full flavoured (unctuous) and silky with strong acidity. Tasty and long finish.

Manga Culture

Manga: the Japanese word for comics/cartoons and consists of comics and print cartoons 

The Compañía de Vinos spends a lot of time in Asia and Japan and have become intrigued by Manga culture.

4. La Sabrosita Garnacha Tinta 2010 Grape variety: Garnacha (Fr.

Grenache) Young [Joven]; medium-bodied;

unoaked Nose Taste

La Sabrosita Garnacha Tinta 2010

A succulent and moreish light wine with inviting flavours of ripe cherries and a hint of spice

Fruit flavours dominate rather than flavours from oak

Good example of a Joven wine

5. Laderas de El Seque, DO Alicante, 2010

Grape variety: 85% Monastrell [Fr. Mourvèdre], 15% Syrah & Cabernet Sauvignon.

Alicante is the homestead of the Monastrell

A is thick skinned grape variety. Wine has a powerful smoky aroma and can take on a gamey complexity with age.

Laderas de El Seque, DO Alicante, 2010

Colour: Attractive cherry red colour with purple edges. Clean and bright wine.

Nose: Intense and juicy ripe red fruit accompanied by creamy spices, light toasted notes and fresh balsamic aromas. Subtle mineral background.

Flavour: A soft attack and a long and intense, very tasty and sweet mid-palate. Sweet and creamy notes of fruit with roasted hints. Good acidity confers freshness. It has very noticeable tannins and a long finish.

Ribera del Duero

Ribera del Duero  Elevated northern plateau of the Iberian Peninsula

at a height of 2800ft (800m) It is divided by the Duero river, which provides

the local vineyards with a much-needed water supply.

Inland location, coupled with the sheltering effects of nearby mountains, creates an extreme climate- hot and dry summers are followed by harsh winters.

High daytime temperatures are combined with considerably cooler nights – a condition which assists in the optimum accumulation of aromas and other chemical compounds (phenolics) in the grapes.

Notable and expensive wine - Bodegas Vega Sicilia

6. Momo Vendimia Seleccionada, DO Ribera del Duero 2008 Grape variety: Tinto del pais (aka

Tempranillo Crafted by Bodegas Bóhorquez

shows the estate's stylish balance and intensity at a very affordable price.

Now - 2014

Momo Vendimia Seleccionada, DO Ribera del Duero 2008 Colour: Intense cherry red. 

Nose: Aroma of forest fruits and seamless integration of oak, which gives it great complexity. 

Palate: Powerful, complex, accompanied by a refreshing natural acidity and a solid phenolic structure. 

France

Rioja

Hotel Marqués de Riscal

DVD Interlude

Bodegas Muga

The most traditional Rioja producer

22 minutes

Malolactic fermentation

Malic acid Lactic acid + CO2

Reduce acid in red wines and selected white wines by organic rather than chemical means

Initiated by lactic acid bacteria, such as Oenococcus oeni

Occurs after main fermentation in casks, not bottles

7. Muga Reserva, DOCa, Rioja 2007 Muga, the most traditional of Rioja’s bodegas,

with not a stainless steel tank in sight. In-house cooperage which makes the barrels,

from a variety of oak sources, which are key to the Muga style.

Complex aging process with much racking and fining

Grape variety: 75% Tempranillo, 25% Garnacha, Mazuelo (aka Carignan) and Graciano

24 months in oak plus one year in bottle before release

Muga Reserva, DOCa, Rioja 2007 Colour: Dark purple, with lighter rim. Nose: Stinky Burgundian nose with a core of

leather and spice notes gently backed with vanilla tones. Expansive notes of reduced red berries.

Palate: Opulent and layered in the mouth with black cherry fruit of almost syrupy quality. Lots of very fine tannins add support to the fruit and the superbly integrated acidity keeps everything fresh.

This is very youthful and absolutely delicious. Drink 2008-2016

8. MR Mountain Wine, DO Malaga, 2009 [50cl] Grape variety: Muscat of Alexandria Made by Compania de Vinos Telmo

Rodriguez A brightly coloured, lemon-scented

sweet dessert wine made from vineyards 700 metres up in the hills behind Málaga.

On wine list at El Bulli

MR Mountain Wine, DO Malaga, 2009 [50cl] Appearance: Deep yellow-gold. Nose: Ripe peach and nectarine on

the nose, with exotic notes of gingerbread and orange marmalade adding complexity. Palate: Sweet, fleshy, expansive fruit nectar flavors are lifted by a gentle minerality. 

Today’s wines

1. Codorniu Seleccion Raventos Brut NV£7.99 *

2. Torres Viña Esmeralda, DO Penedes, 2010 £7.99 *

3. Gaba do Xil, Godello, DO Valdeorras, 2010 £8.95 WS

4. La Sabrosita Garnacha Tinta, DO Navarra 2010 £7.40 MS

5. Laderas de El Seque, DO Alicante, 2010 £6.95 WS

6. Momo Vendimia Seleccionada, DO Ribera del Duero 2008 £9.75 WS

7. Muga Reserva, DOCa, Rioja 2007 £13.50 WS

8. MR Mountain Wine, DO Malaga, 2009 [50cl] £12.25 WS

* Majestic WS Wine Society MS Marks & Spencer

Aroma test

Which of today’s wines is this?

Think of characteristic aromas!

Best value

Which of today’s range offers best value?

Next session

Wednesday 16 May 2012at 2.30pm

Nth California & Oregon