Perfect Perennials 2012

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with Western L.A. County Native PlantsProject SOUND – 2012 (our 8th year)

Perfect Perennials California Native Perennials for a

Colorful Garden

C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh PreserveApril 7 & 11, 2012

So darned many perennials – where to begin?

We’ll be considering CA native herbaceous perennials in the next few classes

Our challenge today: the maturing garden

Time to assess what’s missing

What is a perennial? A perennial plant or simply

perennial (Latin per, "through", annus, "year") is a plant that lives for more than two years. The term is often used to differentiate a plant from shorter lived annuals and biennials.

Technically, perennials include:

Woody plants Sub-shrubs Herbaceous perennials Bulbs Ferns Perennial grasses

Herbaceous perennials

Live more than 1 year

Have soft/succulent above-ground foliage

Usually are medium to small size - < 3-4 ft

Have a dormant period – often die back to the ground during that period

http://www.flickr.com/photos/eastbaywilds/6083877815/

Wild Ginger - Asarum caudatum

What is the difference between herbaceous perennials & sub-shrubs?

Perennial sub-shrubs:

Part-woody; woody part extends at least partway up the stem

Usually don’t die back all the way – re-sprout from wood

Often the ‘juicy parts’ are eaten back in the wilds – but not in our gardens; that’s why we have to cut them back ourselves in the fall

Some S. CA native plants are difficult to categorize – continuum between herbaceous & woody

Herbaceous perennials usually have a dormant period

Drought-induced Local S. CA herbaceous

perennials like Diplacus Plant goes dormant and

dies back in summer

Cold-induced Usually plants from

colder climates than ours – N. CA; S. CA mountains

Plant goes dormant in late fall/winter

What happens when we grow these plants in our local gardens – and don’t have drought- or cold-induced dormancy?

Native herbaceous perennials in S. CA gardens may be a bit different, but…

Herbaceous perennials: might enhance our maturing garden

So, you go to your favorite source of inspiration …

http://www.thisoldyard.net/tag/books-about-trees/

…and feel like you fell down the rabbit hole

These clearly are not ‘New California

Gardens’…

http://www.redcedargardens.com/class/gardening-with-suzi-30/

http://www.hilltowntreeandgarden.com/portfolio-cottage-garden-goshen-stone-pathways.html

…but they are sort of pretty and interesting

How do we apply the inspiration from ‘non-California’ perennial gardens to our

own gardens?

Where do herbaceous perennials fit into the ‘New California Garden’ design?

The ‘perennial bed’ has been out of fashion for a while – but that’s changing (as the new books suggest)

The classical perennial bed is much more suited to colder climates than ours

It’s difficult to build an entire bed/garden around just CA native perennials – they just aren’t ‘backbone plants’

http://www.mjmgardendesign.com/consult2.html

http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/salutation_garden

http://www.landscaperesource.com/articles/5-tips-designing-california-native-gardens.htm

Native herbaceous perennials can be used in several ways in our gardens

Use them as filler plants In a new garden – until the

larger woody plants grow In mature gardens – to fill

gaps or ‘difficult’ places

Use them as ‘fitted plants’ that provide specific additions to the mature garden – the plants are carefully chosen for their attributes

And that’s where the new books on perennial gardens can be a source of inspiration

What can herbaceous perennials bring to the garden?

Flower color

Specific foliage attributes – colors, shapes, textures

Sun and (especially) shade tolerance

Habitat value: particularly food (nectar, pollen, seeds, even foliage)

Attractants for beneficial insects

Food & medicinal plants

Other: dyes, fiber, scents© Project SOUND

Lessons from the new perennial garden books (for the New CA Garden)

1. Learn to ‘read the pictures’ – what is it I like about the feel of this garden?

2. Try to ‘capture the spirit’ -not duplicate the plants

3. Take the time to choose the right native plant for the job

4. Choose ‘value added’ native plants that still capture the spirit of the image you love

Our mission: find the perfect perennials for this shady garden

http://www.gardenlady.com/favorites_2004.html

http://www.anniesannuals.com/plt_lst/lists/search/lst.srch.asp?prodid=1055&srch_term=tellima

Delicate bloom spikes – succulent leaves

Heucheras are only one possibility

Saxifragaceae - The Saxifrage Family

~ 1250 species in 80 genera

Found worldwide, many from northern temperate regions.

Mainly perennial herbs and shrubs, some evergreen, with only a few annuals or small trees.

Includes many common garden plants; Hydrangea Astilbe Bergenia Heuchera Escallonia

* Fringe Cups – Tellima grandiflora

Central to N. CA north to AK, MT, including coastal areas

Cool, moist woods & rocky places below 5000 ft.

Redwood Forest, Mixed Evergreen Forest, Yellow Pine Forest

* Fringe Cups – Tellima grandiflora

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_cpn.pl?TEGR2

Fringe-cups: a woodland plant

Size: 1-2 ft tall – flowers to 3 ft spreading 2-4 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Mounded – like Heuchera

Foliage: basal clump of toothed,

shallowly-lobed, rounded, hairy, long-stalked, dark green leaves

Leaves, twigs, and seeds inside fleshy berries are all poisonous if eaten, and potentially fatal to small child, animal

Flowers are enchanting

Blooms: spring - usually April-May in S. Ca

Flowers: Like Heuchera – but

fancier; fringed petals Start pale, age dark pink Long bloom season –

flowers open in succession

Sweet fragrance Hummingbirds adore

Seeds: tiny – like fine pepper

Vegetative reproduction: spreads by thick underground rhizomes

Plant Requirements Soils:

Texture: most pH: any local, though likes

slightly acidic, well-drained

Light: Light shade to quite shady Typical woodland plant

Water: Winter: supplement in dry

spells Summer: regular water

(Zone 2-3 to 3); older plants may tolerate Zone 2

Fertilizer: likes organic soils; amendments/compost fine

Other: use organic mulch

Groundcover for shady moist spots – under pine or redwood trees

North-facing exposures Mixed beds Rain garden or pond

Fringe-cups: perennial delight

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Tellima_grandiflora

http://www.alpinegardensociety.net/competitions/online-show/2009/view+of+a+grouping+of+Alpine+plants+in+a+garden/606/

http://www.anniesannuals.com/plt_lst/lists/general/lst.gen.asp?prodid=1055

‘Forest Frost’

Has variegated leaves – otherwise no different from straight species

http://www.rainyside.com/plant_gallery/perennials/Tellima_grandifloraForestFrost.html

http://www.perennials.com/plants/tellima-grandiflora-forest-frost.html

Something a little taller, bolder – with white flowers to brighten the area

http://naturalmidwestgarden.com/archives/1090

Are their any choices that would also attract butterflies?

http://www.hilltowntreeandgarden.com/portfolio-ashfield.html

Common Cowparsnip – Heracleum maximum

George G. Hawxhurst © California Academy of Sciences

Throughout continental U.S. except the Gulf Coast; locally in the San Bernardino Mtns

In a variety of habitats including woodlands, forest openings, grasslands, and riparian areas (wet meadows, stream terraces, alluvial benches, floodplains, and stream and lake margins.

Common Cowparsnip – Heracleum maximum

Charles Webber © California Academy of Sciences

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_cpn.pl?HEMA80

The Apiaceae – Carrot Family

Formerly called Umbelliferae

Commonly known as carrot or parsley family

Mostly aromatic plants with hollow stems.

Large (16th largest flowering plant family) - more than 3,700 species/ 434 genera

Includes many well known plants: Angelica Anise, caraway, coriander/cilantro,

cumin, dill, fennel Carrot, celery, parsley, parsnip Hemlock, lovage, Queen Anne's Lace

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Apiaceae_Pimpinella_anisum.jpg

Many make excellent habitat plants for home gardens

Common Parsnip is ‘back of the bed’ big

Size: 3-8+ ft tall 2-4 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial;

winter deciduous All parts large, robust Stems succulent, hollow

Foliage: Medium green Leaves very large, coarsely

toothed & lobed – sort of like Acanthus leaves

Roots: stout taproot and/or fibrous

http://www.alaska-in-pictures.com/twins-exploring-108-pictures.htm

Flowers light up shady areas

Blooms: spring/summer usually May-July

Flowers: Small and white Sweetly scented – many

butterflies are attracted In dense to more open

umbels – like a starburst – typical of the family

Seeds: Flat, ribbed seeds typical

for the family

Vegetative reproduction: ??

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Heracleum_lanatum_07269.JPG

Common Parsnip Likes water

Soils: Texture: well-drained best – but

adaptable pH: any local except very alkali

Light: Part-shade best Takes over with full sun & lots of

Water: Winter: supplement in dry years Summer: likes moist soil

Fertilizer: adaptable; does well in amended soils

Other: Always wear gloves when cutting, breaking stems – the juices of all parts contain a phototoxin that can act on contact with skin and exposure to ultraviolet lightGary A. Monroe @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

Deadheading Perennials

What is deadheading? Removing spent flowers/seed heads

after the plant stops flowering

Clipthe stalk back to the first set of healthy leaves below the flower stalk; leave the clippings as mulch/food

Why deadhead? To make the plant look more attractive

To prolong the bloom season/encourage a second bloom season

For many native perennials, and a few shrubs, a decent deadheading may be all the pruning they need! Plants that have a woody base but produce lots of lush growth each season, such as Monkeyflowers and Penstemon seem to respond especially well to this technique.

Must I deadhead? no

http://www.gapphotos.com/imagedetails.asp?imageno=47016

Big habitat plant

Large filler plant in shady areas Woodland gardens Shady slopes Butterfly gardens Pond/poolside, other moist

areas Medicinal uses

http://camissonia.blogspot.com/2011/04/spring-has-spring-despite-schizo.html

* CA Lomatium – Lomatium californicum

J. E.(Jed) and Bonnie McClellan © California Academy of Sciences

Central & Northern CA from ]; Ventura and Kern Cos to S. OR

Wooded or brushy slopes to 5500', chaparral and foothill woodlands

* CA Lomatium – Lomatium californicum

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?329,426,428

CA Lomatium: shrubby perennial Size:

2-5 ft tall 4-5 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Shrubby-looking; clumped Dies back to short

stem/root in drought

Foliage: Usually blue-green Looks like celery – and

smells like it too! Larval food – Anise

Swallowtail

Flowers are pretty

Blooms: spring-summer; usually May-July

Flowers: Typical for the carrot

family Many, small yellow flowers In a rather open umbel Flowers attract a wide

range of insect pollinators, including butterflies

Seeds: Flat, winged seed – typical

of Carrot family If growing from seed, rinse

several times in water – takes several days

Plant Requirements Soils: Texture: any well-drained pH: any local

Light: Part-shade; morning sun or

dappled shade best

Water: Winter: adequate Summer: let plants dry out

after flowering

Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils

Other: cut back almost to ground in fall (or whenever you can’t take the dead branches any more!)

Garden uses for Lomatiums

Accent plant – dry shade In a mixed planting with

grasses, annuals In dry parts of the

vegetable/medicinal garden© Br. Alfred Brousseau, Saint Mary's College

http://www.baynatives.com/plants/Lomatium-californicum/ http://jay.timetotrack.com/ccal/lomatca2.htm

Lomatiums: useful plants

Spring leaves, stems and roots eaten raw or cooked as greens

Leaves used as seasoning : Pick it before it blooms for a more

even, mellow flavor, or during or after the bloom for a stronger flavor.

Shade dry it in a warm spot with good ventilation, turning the leaves over every day or two. The flavor resembles celery.

Medicinal Root chewed for sore throat; dried

root smoked or decoction of roots taken for colds – makes at least 4 compounds with antibacterial action

Used as poultice for rheumatism

Ceremonial uses

http://www.botany.hawaii.edu/faculty/carr/ofp/lom_cal.htm

Native CA hunters chewed plant to conceal their scent when hunting

We’ll introduce some other great habitat perennials in the next few months

Angelica hendersonii Lomatium utriculatum

In another part of our shady backyard…

* California Hemp – Hoita macrostachya

Western CA (except Great Central Valley)

Locally Long Beach, LA River, Santa Monicas, San Gabriels

Wetland-riparian between 0 and 5000 feet; in many plant communities (Yellow Pine Forest, Foothill Woodland, Chaparral, Valley Grassland, Coastal Prairie)

ho-IT-tay – Maidu name for this genus

AKA: Psoralea

* California Hemp – Hoita macrostachya

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_cpn.pl?HOMA4

Characteristics of CA Hemp

Size: 4-6 ft tall 4-6 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Erect to sprawling Looks like a large shrub,

but dies back in fall

Foliage: Medium to blue-green Leaves compound (3-part),

sparse on stems

Roots: nitrogen-fixing (nodules)

http://sbwildflowers.wordpress.com/wildflowers/fabaceae/hoita/hoita-macrostachya/

Flowers are fantastic

Blooms: spring/summer usually May-July in S. CA

Flowers: On a club-like stalk that

elongates Flowers pea-like Color is lovely: shades of

purple/pink/magenta Beautiful contrasts –

flowers & foliage

Seeds: Bean-like In hairy, pea-like pods

Plant Requirements Soils: Texture: just about any pH: any local

Light: Best in light- to part-shade

Water: Winter: fine with flooding;

supplement if needed Summer: regular water

(Water Zone 2-3); taper off after blooming

Fertilizer: not picky; likes poor soils but OK with some fertilizer, amendments

Other: cut off old, dead branches in late fall

http://www.researchlearningcenter.org/bloom/mobile/species/Hoita_macrostachya.htm

Garden uses for As a soil stabilizer along a

sunny stream, in a marsh or at the ponds edge.

As an accent plant for shady parts of garden

Plant near or around trees such as alder, sycamore, box elder, and dogwood for a woodland garden retreat

Practical uses: roots Fibers Yellow dye Eaten (raw or cooked) Pulverized for

salve/poultice for sores, skin ulcers

Fall/Winter tasks: native herbaceous perennials In general, these plants

are low maintenance: properly placed they come back year after year

Many need cutting back/removing dead material in fall/winter

Be sure you know which perennials need to be handled with care:

Toxicities Rashes/allergies

Why do the perennials produce such interesting

chemicals?

Plants in the genus Hoita produce furanocoumarins;

These substances can cause a serious photosensitive rash in some people

Precautions Wear gloves, long sleeves Be careful not to get plant juices

on skin – wash off immediately if you do with soap & water

Always wash skin and clothes after pruning

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hoita_macrostachya_(PSoralea_macrostachya)_Edwards's_Bot._Reg._21.1769.1836.jpg

Now a little something low to fill in…

Native Honeysuckles make good groundcovers (as well as vines) for shade

* Orange Honeysuckle - Lonicera ciliosa

We could use Woodmints (Stachys spp.)

Now a little something low to fill in…

* Creeping Leather-root – Hoita orbicularis

California Floristic Province (except Great Central Valley) S. to Baja

Locally: very occasionally in San Gabriels – more common in San Bernardino Mtns

Many plant communities including Yellow Pine Forest, Foothill Woodland, Chaparral, Valley Grassland up to 4-5000‘ ft elevation

In moist places: meadows, stream sides, moist hillsides, pond edges, seeps

* Creeping Leather-root – Hoita orbicularis

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_IJM.pl?tid=28327

http://jay.timetotrack.com/socal/lethrc.htm

The flowers & leaves give it away

Proud member of the Pea Family - Fabaceae

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hoita_orbicularis_(Psoralea_orbicularis)_Edwards%27s_Bot._Reg._23._1971._1837..jpg

Creeping Leather-root: it creeps (of course) Size:

< 1 ft tall 1-3 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Winter-dormant Prostrate habit

Foliage: Leaves a trefoil – like a giant

clover (2-4” across) Edible (young); used to fevers

Roots: N-fixing (nodules); produce yellow dye

Flowers:clover on steroids

Blooms: spring - usually May-June in western L.A. county

Flowers: On long spikes – up to 2-

3 ft long; flowers open up sequentially

Each of the many flowers is up to 1” long, pea-like, and generally a shade of light to medium purple in color.

Very showy for a ground-cover – like the Woodmints

Easy plant in the right place

Soils: Texture: most pH: any local except > 8.0

Light: Part-sun to shade Good under trees or N-facing

exposures

Water: Winter: fine with extra

winter water Summer: regular water keeps

it looking best: Zone 2 to 3

Fertilizer: not picky; OK with a little fertilizer, compost, organic mulch

Other: cut back old (dead/dying) foliage in fall

Creeping Leather-root works well in shade gardens

As a groundcover – alone or mixed In rain gardens, infiltration swales In pots and planters (incl. ‘mini-

bogs’) On slopes Shady areas in a butterfly garden Edges of vegetable or medicinal

garden

http://www.laspilitas.com/nature-of-california/plants/psoralea-orbicularis

And that’s not all…

Round leaved boykinia – Boykinia rotundifolia

endemic to southern California, where it grows in shady forested areas near streams in the mountains

Locally: Santa Monica Mtns (Malibu Cyn); more common in San Gabriels

Boykinia: Dr. Samuel Boykin (1786-1848), an

eminent field botanist - did the majority of his collecting in Georgia.

He was one of the many collectors who sent significant numbers of plant samples to John Torrey and Asa Gray

Round leaved boykinia – Boykinia rotundifolia

Boykinia: woodsy & drapey Size: 1-2 ft tall 1-2 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Upright or vine-like –

depends on the conditions Evergreen with water Spreads via underground

stems (rhizomes)

Foliage: Medium green ; may be

hairy Leaves rounded, irregularly

toothed – spread out along stems

Flowers are curious

Blooms: late spring/summer; usually May-July in our gardens

Flowers: Very tiny – plant where

you be able to see them White In dense ‘sprays’ along the

long (to 5 ft), thin flowering stalks

Would make an interesting addition to floral arrangement

Seeds: Many, small seeds in

rounded capsule

S. CA Woodlands Soils: Texture: just about any; well-

drained best pH: any local

Light: Part-shade to fairly shady Flowers best in dappled sun

or bright shade, under trees

Water: Winter: supplement is needed Summer: likes regular water –

Zone 2-3 or 3

Fertilizer: not too particular; fine with humus and light fertilizer

Other: use an organic mulch

Boykinia in the garden As an accent plant in shady

areas, around ponds/pools Massed as an evergreen

groundcover; woodsy look that fine under trees, near lawns

As an interesting pot plant on shady porches

http://plants.ritchiefeed.com/NetPS-Engine.asp?CCID=31090003&page=pdp&PID=8366

http://www.researchlearningcenter.org/bloom/species/Boykinia_rotundifolia.htm

One more bit of inspiration: compound leaves

* Redwood Sorrel – Oxalis oregana

The Oxalidaceae: the Wood Sorrel family

Small family of eight genera

Herbaceous plants, shrubs and small trees

The great majority of the 900 species in the genus Oxalis (wood sorrels).

Members of this family typically have: Divided leaves Leaflets showing "sleep

movements", spreading open in light and closing in darkness.

The genus Oxalis contains some real bad boys

Two members of the Oxalis genus in particular have given it a bad name. O. pes-caprae, known by the

common name Bermuda buttercup (even though it comes from South Africa) is known to take over a garden. When pioneering California botanist Lester Roundtree was asked how to deal with O. pre-caprae, she replied, "You move.“

O. corniculata - creeping woodsorrel, also called Procumbent Yellow-sorrel or Sleeping Beauty, is a somewhat delicate-appearing, low-growing Oxalis that has become a weed world-wide

Oxalis pes-caprae

Oxalis corniculata

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Oxalis_corniculata

Central/North coast up to WA state (coastal and Cascades)

Moist conifer forests (Redwood Forest, Douglas-Fir Forest) between 0 and 3300 feet

AKA Oregon Oxalis

* Redwood Sorrel – Oxalis oregana

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=OXOR

Redwood Sorrel: a sweet little creeper Size:

~ 1 ft tall 2-4 ft wide, spreading

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial Mounded, spreading

Foliage: Bright green (may have some

white or burgundy) 3 heart-shaped leaflets – trefoil

(looks like large 3-leaf clover) – on long petiole (leaf stem)

Songbirds may eat young leaves

Roots: spreads moderately via stout underground stems (rhizomes)

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Oxalis_oregana

Oxalis have a long history of human use

An edible wild plant in cuisines around the world

Leaves/stems: Raw or cooked, as greens Lightly fermented – for a side

dish Dried to make a lemony-tasting

tea Fresh or dried as an herb – to

put a little ‘zing’ in dishes

Tuber: Cultivated & eaten like a potato

in the Northern Andes

Redwood Sorrel is used as a medicinal

Fresh juice from plant applied to sore eyes.

Decoction of whole plant used as a wash for rheumatism.

Poultice of plant applied to swollen areas & sores on the skin and to draw out infections.

http://www.cieldazur.fr/gb/argile/utilisation.php

Oxalic acid & other compounds Giving the leaves and flowers a sour taste

which can make them refreshing to chew.

In very large amounts, oxalic acid may be considered slightly toxic, interfering with proper digestion and kidney function.

Oxalic acid is also present in commonly consumed foods such as spinach, broccoli, brussel sprouts, grapefruit, chives, and rhubarb, among many others.

General scientific consensus seems to be that the risk of sheer toxicity, actual poisoning from oxalic acid, in persons with normal kidney function is "wildly unlikely“.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxalis

Flowers are wonderful

Blooms: primarily in spring - usually April-June in our area

Flowers: Usually translucent pink

but may be white; beautiful contrast w/ foliage

Often have rays that are of contrasting shade

Medium size - ~1 inch 5 petals – relatively

simple design

Seeds: In dry capsule that pops

open, throwing the seeds

Fairly easy from seed or divisions

Soak the soil around the roots 24 hours before digging (if soil is dry).

Divide Oxalis oregana in fall (as the winter rainy season begins) or in late winter or early spring (when new shoots/leaves appear).

Lift the Oxalis roots from the soil. Gently pull the roots apart into clumps containing three to five new growth shoots

Replant the divisions in the garden. Soak the area to settle the soil.

Use fresh seed

http://www.baynatives.com/plants/Oxalis-oregana/

Redwood Sorrel is a woodland plant

Soils: Texture: most are fine pH: any local except > 8.0

Light: Part-shade to shade Naturally grows under

Water: Winter: supplement in dry,

windy periods Summer: like a moist soil –

Water Zone 2-3 or 3

Fertilizer: likes a richer soil than many natives; fine with added humus, compost, light fertilizer

Use an organic mulch – leaf litter or leaf mulch is ideal

Woodsy groundcover

Great in shady spots under trees – pines, junipers, etc. - with Lilies, Fringecups & Iris

Does great in pots & planters

Around shady fountains, birdbaths, other moist areas

http://www.calfloranursery.com/plants/oxalis-oreganahttp://agardenerinprogress.blogspot.com/2009/05/path-in-spring.html

Oxalis oregana 'Select Pink’, ‘Tilden Pink’, ‘Smith River white’

Natural varieties chosen for their flower color

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=OXOR

Our challenge today: the maturing garden

Time to assess what’s missing

…and feel like you fell down the rabbit hole

Our mission: find the perfect perennials for this shady garden – made a good start

Lessons from the new perennial garden books (for the New CA Garden)

1. Learn to ‘read the pictures’ – what is it I like about the feel of this garden?

2. Try to ‘capture the spirit’ not duplicate the plants

3. Take the time to choose the right native plant for the job

4. Choose ‘value added’ native plants that still capture the spirit of the image you love

So, visit the spring plant sales

Wild Mint – Mentha arvensis

Some great plants for your water garden – now’s the time to plant

And get out & get inspired: it’s spring!

http://www.californianativeflora.com/garden-blog/7th-annual-theodore-payne-native-plant-garden-tour-april-10th-and-11th/

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