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SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
A Publication of WWD
Work It OutThe treatment category is increasingly more than skin deep, as brands target toning
instead of topicals when it comes to antiaging. For more, see pages 7 and 8. PLUS: Victoria Beckham builds her beauty brand and celebrating
the Dream Ball past and present. PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE
ISSUE#27
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SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
THE BUZZ
Shiseido Americas Names Chief Information OfficerShiseido Americas has appointed
Shannon Britton chief information officer.
Britton will manage all IT application enterprises and platforms for Shiseido Americas, according to a statement put out by the company. She will also join the North American subsidiary’s executive leadership team and will report to Ron Gee, Shiseido Americas’ interim chief executive officer.
Britton was most recently head of IT for Diageo, the spirits company. Cosway Beauty Brands Hires Group Chief Executive Officer; Colorproof Marketing VPCosway Beauty Brands has tapped Rick Kornbluth to be its chief executive officer, and Maureen Saenz to be Colorproof's new vice president of marketing.
Kornbluth will manage Cosway’s brand portfolio, which includes
Neuma, Number 4 and Colorproof, the last of which was acquired in June. A statement from the company referenced the recent and upcoming expansions in a time of growth.
In a related move, Colorproof named Maureen Saenz vice president of marketing, where she will lead “vision, direction and implementation of strategies focused on brand growth.” She was recently at Kevin Murphy. Kornbluth was also most recently president and ceo of hair-care manufacturer Kevin Murphy. La Prairie Group AG Creates New VP Role, Reshuffles Brand PortfolioNoelle Goris has been named vice president, travel retail of La Prairie Group AG, where she will oversee travel retail strategy globally.
“In [Goris], we have found the rare combination of expertise in international luxury, travel retail and commercial know-how. I am delighted
she has joined our team,” said Patrick Rasquinet, chief executive officer of La Prairie Group, in a statement.
Goris, who is an alumna of both Procter & Gamble and Coty, is adopting her responsibilities from Laurent Marteau, whose responsibilities are being expanded to include the Americas in addition to Europe and the Middle East.
Kopari Announces Susan Kim Chief Executive OfficerSusan Kim is the new ceo of Kopari.
Kim is the first chief executive officer to take over after Bryce Goldman, cofounder and former chief executive officer. In a statement put out by the brand, it underscored Kim’s knowledge of growing direct-to-consumer customer bases while also spearheading an omnichannel approach. Kopari, which launched in 2015 as a d-to-c brand, is now sold in Sephora, Ulta and Nordstrom.
Kim has held previous positions at Huda Beauty, Benefit Cosmetics and L’Oréal USA. Dermstore Gets New Chief Marketing OfficerDermstore has named Patrice Varni as its new chief marketing officer.
Varni, who most recently served as the chief customer officer at Corelle Brands, will be tasked with “driving future success for Dermstore,” according to a statement released by the retailer.
Maesa Chooses Ahmed El Gabry as Group Chief Operating OfficerBrand incubator Maesa has named Ahmed El Gabry its new global chief operating officer.
El Gabry comes after 18 years at Mars, where he was responsible for managing and integrating its North American supply chain. —James Manso
The Beauty Carousel: Moves at Shiseido, Kopari, Colorproof
¬ Hand sanitizer is clinically sterile by nature, but a new partnership aims to marry utility and taste.
Pureté System, purveyor of all things chic and sanitary, has partnered with Amass, a distiller and hand sanitizer manufacturer, to incorporate botanical-laden hand sanitizers in its high-end, high-design dispensing systems. The minimalist obelisks, which launched in June following the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, are available in a
variety of minimalist formats and finishes for corporate, retail and hospitality settings. Prices range from $650 to $1,950. Amass, which crafts both hand sanitizers and spirits, is offering its hand sanitizers in three different scents.
Pureté System was founded earlier this year by Jonathan Reed, founder and chief executive officer of the creative agency CS Global, who saw a white space in the market for ultra-luxe sanitizing solutions that double as
objets d'art. Currently, the brand’s offerings include monolithic hand sanitizer pedestals, wall mounts, and tabletop dispensers; along with pedestals, tabletop units and partitions for sanitizing wipes. —James Manso
The Sleek Set
Pureté System's hand sanitizer pedestal.
AS THE WEATHER cools down, TikTok trends have dissipated from Google search trends. According to September data from Trendalytics, which uses a proprietary algorithm to predict monthly trends, the focus is on skin now, specifically, masks. “There was still whimsy and escapism over summer, but now it’s much more, ‘Everything is terrible, and I need to control my maskne,’” said Trendalytics chief executive officer Cece Lee. The pivot to functionality has been an undercurrent for skin-care sales throughout the pandemic, although Lee theorized that the pandemic’s duration played a vital role in the crescendo of skin-care trends, coupled with the looming election and natural disasters across the country. “As much as people are paying lip service to ‘the new normal,’ everyone is now realizing that it’s never going back to normal. You tried to get as much escapism as you could over the summer, and everyone knows now that winter is coming,” she said. Here, Trendalytics’ top search trends for September, as ranked by year-over-year growth.
1. maskne: +16,668%
2. nettle venom: +2,528%
3. neck mask: +1,222%
4. men's face mask: +961%
5. nose mask: +704%
6. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid:
+703%
7. biodegradable hair ties: +516%
8. niacinamide serum: +502%
9. lace mask: +492%
10. cooling mask: +451%
By the Numbers: Back to Basics September data from Trendalytics show searches indicate skin care’s continued — and growing — dominance. BY JAMES MANSO
Source: Trendalytics
from top left: Shannon Britton, Rick Kornbluth, Maureen Saenz, Noelle Goris, Laurent Marteau, Susan Kim, Patrice Varni, Ahmed El Gabry
Made for beauty lovers by beauty lovers in sunny California
CLEAN • VEGAN • CRUELT Y-FREE
@summerfridays | summerfridays.com
4
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
NEWS FEED
THERE IS NO airbrushing the facts
at Victoria Beckham Beauty, which
has pinned its name on transparency
with regard to both ingredients and
communications, and which prides
itself on non-toxic, cruelty-free
formulations and planet-friendly
packaging.
The brand prints every product
comment—good, bad, in-between—
on its web site, while the cofounder
and chief executive officer Sarah
Creal doesn’t hold back about some
of the challenges the year-old start-
up has faced.
The brand’s debut in China over the
summer was a success, but there were
a few nerve-racking moments, like
when the team ran out of product
within minutes of the brand's debut
on Alibaba’s Tmall Global.
Victoria Beckham Beauty debuted
there in July with the Power
Glow set, an exclusive created
for the launch featuring a serum
and moisturizer developed with
Augustinus Bader. Beckham herself
led the marketing efforts via a
livestream Q&A session with Viya,
one of China’s biggest influencers.
“So, we go live and we sell about
$150,000 worth of product in five
minutes. It was a success by anybody’s
measure, and I was like ‘This is
amazing!’ Then the site showed we
were out of stock. In the end, we did not
meet the demand, so it was frustrating.
The silver lining is that we know there
is such demand,” said Creal during a
video interview from New York.
Creal said her team bounced back,
and are now prepping their next big
China move, in November. “I’m so
supercharged about China, because
we’re in there now. We’re gearing up,
as everyone is, for the big festival,
11/11, Singles Day,” the biggest online
sales event in the world.
There were more silver linings in
China: Creal said Beckham has good
awareness in the region, both as a
person and as a fashion brand, and
people admire and respect her. Creal
said they refer to her as “Beisao,” or
Mrs. Beckham.
“It’s a term of respect, almost
like ‘sister-in-law,’ and there's a
warm tonality to the word. Victoria
is admired because she has this
beautiful life—but she’s also worked
hard for it. Her values are authentic
and resonate with the Chinese
consumer. They actually started a
hashtag when we launched, which
was #WorkHardBeKind,” said Creal,
an Estée Lauder veteran with a
background in marketing and
product development.
Although she couldn’t physically be
in China during lockdown, Beckham
did her part, making videos where she
gave advice to young girls and talked
about what she would have done
differently in the past. “A lot of it was
like ‘Embrace your own imperfections,
and that of your friends. Support
other people and be kind to them.
Make the effort,’” said Creal.
Both Beckham and Creal have tried
to build the beauty brand with some
of those values in mind.
“When Victoria and I first talked
about what we wanted to do with
the brand, our whole conversation
was about what luxury beauty would
look like in 10 years. We wanted to
build a brand for the future. As part
of that, we knew we would have to be
sustainably focused. And we knew we
wanted to be cleaner than clean.”
The brand marked its first
anniversary earlier this month, and
Creal said that despite the oddities of
operating in lockdown, business has
been good.
Sales, she said, have been growing
in the double-digits month-on-month,
and the brand is expecting “strong”
double-digit growth in fiscal 2020-21.
Creal even said that’s a conservative
projection. While the brand started as
a direct-to-consumer proposition, it
now also sells on Cult Beauty and Net-
a-porter, in addition to Tmall Global.
Some 75 percent of the customers
that shop on the site each month
are new, a trend fueled by people
quarantining at home.
During lockdown, Creal said,
“suddenly, we were getting a lot of
very new customers; people who were
buying beauty online for the first time.”
The brand also launched its Coco Kajal
eyeliner during lockdown, and Creal
said it's been a crowd-pleaser.
Next up is a debut line of lipstick
called Posh, named for Beckham’s
Spice Girls moniker, which launches
on Oct. 1. There are nine shades, while
ingredients include avocado and rose
botanical oils, and flower waxes.
“We created the formula because
we wanted it to be plumping and
moisturizing, with a butter-soft, shiny
finish. For the packaging, we used
minimum plastic. It clicks when it
closes, and it has the most incredible
weight,” she said. Names include
Spice, Play, Girl, Pixies, Sway, and a
red called Pop. The price is $38.
In January, the brand will launch a
newfangled, clean mascara that Creal
describes as the dream.
“It has this kind of curling effect,
it’s transfer-proof, 100 percent clean
and comes off with warm water.
It leaves not one trace. It’s like
mascara remastered. We wanted to
re-engineer mascara into a treatment
that would wear like iron.”
She said ingredients include plant
and botanical waxes that are soft
and malleable, botanical ingredients
for plumping, vitamins and a plant
polymer to seal up everything.
More skin-care products and color
cosmetics are in the pipeline for next
year, while the brand also plans to
crack into fragrance and wellness
via supplements. “Victoria and I are
both crazy about these categories:
The hardest part is cutting it down
because we can only launch so many
products a year,” she said.
In an interview on the sidelines
of her spring 2021 presentation in
London last weekend, Beckham
described Creal as “my perfect partner
in crime. I love learning from her—
she is so knowledgable. We are a
small start-up, and we've earned so
much respect in skin care already, and
that's difficult for a fashion brand.”
The products, and strategy all come
from the same place, said Creal.
“This is not a brand being built in
a corporate boardroom. Our first goal
is to be authentic, to put products
out there that we care about and
that are really going to do something
different, products Victoria and I feel
like we’re missing our own regimens.
I have the faith that if we grow it
organically and authentically, people
will respond,” she said.
Victoria Beckham Beauty Powers Through Pandemic With Lipstick, ‘Clean’ Mascara to Come A debut line of lipstick called Posh will launch on Oct. 1, followed by a new mascara formulation that cofounder and ceo Sarah Creal says is the dream. BY SAMANTHA CONTI
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Sarah Creal, cofounder and ceo of Victoria
Beckham Beauty.
FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT RACHAEL DESANTIS, BEAUTY DIRECTOR AT RDESANTIS@WWD.COM
J O I N A
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6
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
NEWS FEED
MAYBELLINE IS LAUNCHING
Brave Together, a new global
philanthropic platform aimed at
raising mental health awareness and
supporting people with anxiety
and depression.
It is an ambitious initiative. The
L'Oréal-owned brand has pledged
$10 million over the next five years
to mental health organizations
worldwide. The brand has also created
a mental health education web site in
partnership with organizations such as
Crisis Text Line, Columbia University,
National Alliance on Mental Illness and
the Jed Foundation. With Crisis Text
Line, Maybelline is also planning to
launch a co-branded text line for people
to have anonymous access to free
mental health resources and support.
“We know that one in five people
are living with anxiety or depression,
including an astonishing number of
women — they're more than twice as
likely as men [to live with anxiety or
depression],” said Trisha Ayyagari,
global brand president, Maybelline
New York. “We want to support them
on their mental health journey, and
know they're not alone — it aligns
closely with our values.”
In the wake of the global
coronavirus pandemic and a new
civil rights movement in the U.S.,
consumers are demanding now more
than ever that brands speak out
against social injustice.
“It's becoming a responsibility
for those brands who are fortunate
enough to have a big platform to
support our community in any
way possible,” Ayyagari said. “Our
community is diverse, we have a
large female audience — a young
female audience — and this aligns
with our brand DNA. It's critical to
show support to our community to
create awareness around a subject
that is important to them and to help
provide resources where we can.”
Brave Together has been in the
works for more than two years. The
brand works closely with Columbia
University in New York to produce
research on triggers for anxiety
and depression. “We've basically
surrounded ourselves with experts,”
Ayyagari said. “All with the goal of
providing knowledge to our audience.”
Maybelline's co-branded text line,
in partnership with Crisis Text Line,
is yet to launch. Ayyagari is hoping
the text line will encourage those
are are hesitant to talk about mental
health issues to open up. “A lot of
people have trouble talking about
anxiety and depression and we
thought reaching out through text
was the easiest way,” she said.
The Brave Together launch is coming
at a challenging time for the makeup
category, as sales across both prestige
and mass plunge due to the COVID-19
crisis. L'Oréal's consumer group, which
includes Maybelline, saw sales dip 15.2
percent in the second quarter.
“It's been very challenging —
makeup has been way down,” Ayyagari
said. “But it's been an exceptional
opportunity to connect with our
consumer on social media. We asked
our consumers, 'What would you like
to hear from us during this time?
They're surrounded by bad news and
not leaving their homes. Across the
board we heard so many responses
of, 'We just want tips and tricks, we
want you to make us feel good — and
thats what we've been doing over the
last several months, we've created a
lot of content to basically entertain
consumers in their home.”
Maybelline Pledges $10M to Mental Health OrgsThe brand's ambitious new global philanthropic initiative, Brave Together, aims to destigmatize mental health issues. BY ELLEN THOMAS
LONDON — After taking a long
break, staying at a secluded resort in
Sir Lanka, attending breakfast with
the governor of Tokyo and sailing
on the Atlantic Ocean, Claire Chung
is ready to make a comeback to the
business arena.
The former general manager of
Yoox Net-a-porter China, who has
spent more than two decades working
in the luxury sector and launched the
Net-a-porter China operation in 2015,
will take on the role of chief executive
officer at beauty start-up Ignae,
effective beginning Sept. 28.
Founded by Miguel Borges Pombo
in 2016, Ignae is a Portuguese
beauty brand that aims to harness
the unique ecology of the Azores
archipelago, from the depths of
the surrounding sea to volcanic
fumaroles with bio-science
technology to develop antiaging
products. Celebrity skin therapist
Joanne Czech and shoe designer
Christian Louboutin are among the
most notable clients according to
the brand.
Now, Chung has been tasked with
leading the brand in a digital-centric
and direct-to-consumer approach to
expand its global footprint with a
focus on China.
“I’m thrilled to be joining Ignae
to take the company to next stage
growth,” Chung said in an exclusive
interview. “I first came across the
brand as a customer.
“The bioscience and powerful
regenerative ingredients found on
the Azores, especially its thermal
waters, is unique. It’s an authentic
and exciting brand that stands out in
a crowded market,” she added.
As ceo, Chung plans to expand the
company's global footprint with new
retail and hotel spa partnerships —
which are now only available at Terra
Nostra Garden Hotel in the Azores
and the Four Seasons in Lisbon and
Bahrain — as well as launch an online
platform next year.
“For skin care, there is a global
shift to a younger customer base and
a rising global demand for natural
products. Ignae sits perfectly at
the crossroads between bio-science
and nature with an added holistic
approach to skin wellness,” she said.
Pombo said he is delighted to
welcome Chung to the team. “She is
a citizen of the world, having worked
in New York, Hong Kong, London,
Milan, Shanghai and now to Lisbon,
where she will be based. Her global
network and command of digital
will certainly accelerate our growth.
Beauty is the fastest-growing category
in retail and China will soon be the
world’s number one beauty market.
Claire’s most recent experience
in that coveted market will be
invaluable,” he added.
Born in Taiwan and educated in
America, Chung speaks five languages
and has been a pioneer in the
development of e-commerce luxury
in China for the past decade.
Prior to YNAP, she served as vice
president of international business
development at Shangpin.com,
securing deals and took more than
200 brands from Valentino to
Topshop into China for the platform.
She now also sits on the board at
Danish speaker maker Bang & Olufsen
and French luggage brand Delsey.
-EXCLUSIVE-
Claire Chung, Former YNAP China GM, Joins Beauty Start-up Ignae as CEOShe will lead the brand in a digital-centric and direct-to-consumer approach to expand its global footprint with a focus on China. BY TIANWEI ZHANG
Maybelline's web page
explaining the initiative.
Claire Chung
7
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
DEEP DIVE
FACIAL FITNESS IS warming up
— and it's about more than the muscles.
The topic of skin health has expanded
over the past few years beyond the
epidermis to encompass what lies
underneath. Bolstered by an influx of
jade rollers, microcurrent devices, facials
and procedures, facial muscles have
garnered much attention. Now, a beauty
industry newcomer is making the case
that facial fat is just as fundamental to
improving and preserving the overall
health of the skin.
Adipeau is a beauty company
cofounded by biotech entrepreneur
Ivan Galanin, celebrity aesthetician
Kristyn Smith and plastic surgeon
Dr. Jacob Tower. The company,
which derives its name from adipose
tissue (aka fat), launched earlier this
year with the Fat Balance Activator.
Priced at $75, the product is meant to
improve the health of facial fat.
The Fat Balance Activator was born
out of an experiment by Galanin,
who had been battling a years-long
skin condition resulting in atrophy.
The former head of commercial
development at Mount Sinai School
of Medicine's Office of Technology
and Business Development began to
study the science of dermal fat and
its impact on skin health.
“When you think about fat, you
don’t think about collagen, elastin,
hyaluronic acid. That’s associated
with fibroblasts,” Galanin told WWD
Beauty Inc. “If you have the right
healthy fat cells, they signal to the
fibroblasts, ‘Make collagen, make
elastin, make hyaluronic acid.’ If
you have unhealthy fat cells, they do
the opposite: They undermine the
productivity of the fibroblasts, and
the impact is significant.”
Sales of skin-care tools and at-home
devices surged in March and April, as
beauty consumers began to stock up in
preparation for coronavirus lockdown
orders. These tools — and the in-person
treatments they temporarily replaced
— tend to target the facial muscles, but
not necessarily the adipose tissue.
NuFace, which sells microcurrent
devices meant to tone the face and
body muscles, has experienced a
surge in sales during COVID-19.
Sales increased 180 percent from
April to August over last year,
according to the company.
Tera Peterson, NuFace's chief
executive officer, said the increase
in sales suggests a solidification of
skin-care devices as “mandatory” to
consumers' overall regimens.
“You have to stimulate the muscles
to have full skin health,” Peterson
said. “If you exercise and want to get
in shape, 50 percent’s nutrition, which
is your skin care, 50 percent’s fitness,
which is your microcurrent. We’re
advocates of stimulating the muscles,
but that doesn’t mean contracting the
muscles, [which] actually starts to
deplete your ATP, the energy of our
cells, by almost 50 percent. Studies
have shown that microcurrent can
increase your ATP by 500 percent,
stimulating the muscles without
actively contracting them.”
NuFace's devices are geared towards
the facial and body muscles, though
microcurrent can play a role in
preserving facial fat by encouraging
cellular turnover, Peterson said.
Celebrity facialist and FaceXercise�
Skin Health: It's About the Fat, Too Facial fitness has largely focused on the muscles of the face, but a new brand called Adipeau says dermal fat is just as vital to skin health. BY ALEXA TIETJEN
PHOTOGRAPH BY HEAMI LEE
Sales of NuFace’s signature device have boomed this year.
“You take your body to the gym and
you’ve got to do the same with your
face. If you want to get great skin, you have to work
on the scaffolding of the muscles and manipulate them. ”
-inge theron, facegym
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SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
DEEP DIVE
Skin Fitness founder Thuyen Nguyen
is famous for his massage method
that involves both lymphatic drainage
and facial sculpting done solely
with his fingers. Before working on
million-dollar faces (Uma Thurman,
Jennifer Aniston and Christie
Brinkley, to name a few), Nguyen
volunteered in the late Nineties as
a massage therapist on paralyzed
patients. There, he developed his
now-signature method of massage as
a form of passive exercise.
“When you go to the gym, it’s
active exercise. When you have a
knot in your shoulder, you go to a
massage therapist to work it out
because they’re bringing local blood
to that area in order to detox the
knot, which is a buildup of toxins, as
well as calm the muscle down and
tone the muscle,” Nguyen said. “Any
professional athlete or dancer will
tell you they have to have a traveling
massage therapist because they have
to not only repair the tissues they’re
working out in a professional sport,
but keep the tone of their muscle
healthy for them not to get injured.”
Nguyen's massage technique focuses
on the facial muscles, not the fat.
“The massage cannot remove fat,
it can’t remove fillers, it can’t disrupt
anything,” Nguyen said. “All it does is
enhance the cells, but it doesn’t break
down fat. If anything, I make people
look thinner based on getting rid of
excess water fluid.”
FaceGym founder Inge Theron
told Beauty Inc that she created
the company, whose studios offer
treatments resembling workouts for
the face, on the premise of improving
“the scaffolding” of the face.
“I wanted to make sure the
message about facial fitness was
simple: You take your body to the
gym and you’ve got to do the same
with your face,” Theron said. “If
you want to get great skin, you
have to work on the scaffolding of
the muscles and manipulate them.
Your skin becomes better as an
incremental benefit of that.”
FaceGym has 12 international
locations and is planning to open
an additional one in New York City's
Upper East Side neighborhood
during the holiday season.
It charges as much as $285 for
a Radio Frequency facial.
In March, after it was forced to close
its New York and Los Angeles locations
due to the pandemic, FaceGym saw
a 560 percent increase in its online
business for tutorials and retail.
Aesthetic acupuncturist Dr. Travall
Croom uses acupuncture to relax too-
tight facial muscles and activate sagging
ones. Though the needles are inserted
into the facial muscles, they can
positively benefit the adipose tissue, too.
“I’m putting [needles] in to increase
the circulation to the face to help
slow down deep fat layer loss and
bone loss,” Dr. Croom said. “One way
of thinking about the aging process
is a decrease of circulation. As we
age, it takes longer for our bodies to
get stuff from point A to point B. Our
blood supply is what brings in the
new nutrients and pulls out the old
toxins. If that process takes longer,
that means it’s taking a longer time
for the cells to get new nutrients.
That means they’re breaking down.
“When things start to break down
or the circulation starts to decrease,
the skin — besides the fat layer,
which you can’t see — will also
become thinner,” he continued. “Once
the health of the face starts to pick
back up, the skin itself will thicken
up. It will turnover more.”
Dr. Croom said although Botox is
often thought of as slowing down
the aging process, it can actually
speed it up. The plastic-y or shiny
look that occasionally results from
longtime Botox use is due to a lack of
circulation to the treated area, he said.
“[Botox is] really blocking off the
nerve to the muscle,” Dr. Croom said.
“After a while, the body no longer
sees that muscle because it’s blocked
and decreases the circulation to
the area. Botox treatments are, in
the long run, speeding up the aging
process as opposed to preventing
something. It’s more of a circulation
issue regarding the skin. Once that
picks back up, the skin gets more
nutrients, the layers build back up,
and it becomes firmer and thicker.”
The positioning of facial tools and
treatments as an active part of one's
skin-care regimen is something that
Adipeau's Galanin aims to apply
to facial fat. In a paper, “Facial
Fat Fitness: A New Paradigm to
Understand Facial Aging and
Aesthetics,” published in Aesthetics
Plastic Surgery, Galanin counters the
common thinking that fat is more
of a nuisance than a benefit. Fat, he
wrote, is not a passive tissue, but an
active factor of skin health, elasticity
and structure.
There are three layers of facial fat
in the face — dermal white adipose
tissue, subcutaneous white adipose
tissue and deep white adipose tissue
— and their health depends on a
state of equilibrium supported by
factors such as healthy diet, moderate
exercise and limited sun exposure.
“Moderate exercise is really good
for fat. It keeps the fat cells toned,”
Galanin said. “Extreme exercise is bad
for fat because the body devotes all of
its energy to sustaining you on that
extreme exercise path and it shuts
down everything that’s nonessential,
[including] new fat cell formation.”
Inflammation, Galanin said, is often
the primary interferer with fat fitness.
Contrary to the belief that people
lose facial fat with age, Galanin said
that most actually gain it. Sagging
skin, he said, is a result of facial
fat losing its health, consequently
causing weakening of the skin.
“There are two main aging
paradigms,” Galanin said. “One, from
the dermatologist perspective, is
focused on fibroblasts and how do
you get fibroblasts to be productive.
The other is from a plastic surgeon’s
perspective. For years, plastic
surgeons were saying that people
lost fat and volume in the face and
they needed to be injected. Our
scientific adviser, Yale-associated
plastic surgeon [Dr.] Jake Tower,
published a paper on facial aging. He
did serial CAT Scans and showed that
most people don’t lose fat in their
faces, they gain it. It actually makes
intuitive sense.
“You’ll find that 99 percent of
dermatologists, even Park Avenue
dermatologists, don’t know anything
about [dermal fat],” he continued.
“It’s not really their fault. They were
trained in a certain mind-set or era
of science, and the whole science
around dermal fat is actually pretty
new. It was just rediscovered in 2014.
They say it takes 10 years for research
discoveries to make it into practice.”
Black ginger and safflower are the
active ingredients in Adipeau's Fat
Balance Activator, which will enter
Net-a-porter in January 2021.
“Ingredients are instruments,”
Galanin said. “They’re sending a
message and playing a particular
tune. It’s easier to get that tune right
when you only have a couple of
instruments playing.”
The product is also sold direct-
to-consumer via Adipeau's web
site, which relaunches Sept. 25. The
company will begin clinical trials,
which were previously delayed due to
the pandemic, in September.
The Fat Balance Activator is
marketed for the face and is meant
to be used in tandem with existing
products in one's skin-care regimen,
Galanin said. Adipeau is working on
future launches for the body.
“There are some exciting things
we can do for the body that are not
just putting the cream into a bigger
bottle,” Galanin said. “We’re not going
to do things like branch out into areas
that other companies are really good
at. There’s no reason for us to come
up with another moisturizer or face
oil or serum. We make it clear that
Adipeau is one part of a regimen and
it’s OK if other parts of that regimen
come from other companies.” ■
1. The treatment category is increasingly more than skin deep, with new brands targeting the muscular structure and even facial fat in their approach to antiaging and skin health. 2. Many believe that increasing circulation in the face is the key to a younger- looking appearance, rather than topical treatments. 3. The at-home market for tools and techniques to tone facial muscles has soared during the coronavirus pandemic, with some brands repor ting tr iple-digit increases.
Key Takeaways
Adipeau's Fat Balance Activator, $75.
T ILe
S E P T E M B E R 2 9
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10
SEPTEMEBR 25, 2020
MASTER CLASS
THIS IS A TIME FOR Terry
Darland to savor.
As she prepares to cap her 42-
year beauty career with plans to
retire as president of North America
for Christian Dior Perfumes and
Cosmetics at the end of the year, the
Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. and LVMH
veteran was honored Thursday night
during a virtual broadcast of the
Dream Ball, the annual fund-raising
event in support of the Look Good
Feel Better Foundation.
Darland, who received the Beauty
Care award, has been involved with
the the event for more than 20 years,
stepping up to co-chair, then chair.
The fund-raising veteran expects to
maintain a good deal of momentum,
despite the lack of a live venue. “Last
year, they raised $1.2 million at a
live event, but this year we set a goal
for the virtual event at $750,000,
figuring that it’s hard to sell tables
when you’re not there,” Darland said.
“But so far we’re over $800,000,”
she added, noting that the total
could hit $900,000, which “would be
unbelievable for a virtual event.”
Although there may be no
substitute for being there, Darland
went to a run-through recently
and came away impressed with
the program’s “warmth and real
compassion,” and the large number
of cancer patients receiving help
with makeup application through
the digital hookup. “Hats off to
[executive director] Louanne Roark,”
she said. “We have always known
that makeup is transformative.”
Darland made those remarks
during an interview that touched on
highpoints of a career that ran from
25 years at Lauder to nearly 17 years
at Dior. Now she is preparing to hand
the baton to her successor, Charlotte
Holman Ros, formerly general
manager of Charlotte Tilbury Beauty,
who has already started work.
This gave Darland a chance to
look back over how dramatically
the industry has changed, from a
vast forest of department stores
bearing more than an estimated 220
nameplates to a market dominated
by specialty and single brand stores
trying to survive in a digital jungle.
As for what’s next, Darland wants
to do more of what she has always
done — travel. And not just anywhere.
In compiling her wish list, Darland
discovered that she and her husband
Mike have never traveled together in
LVMH’s home turf. “As soon as we can
get through this,” she said, “he and I
will take a trip to Paris.”
In this long career, what made
you the most proud?
Terry Darland: I am probably the
most proud of the turnaround of Dior
in the U.S. When Pam [Baxter, as
president and chief executive officer
of Dior, Guerlain and Givenchy] and
I got here in 2004, the brand was
really in trouble. [Darland was senior
vice president of sales and marketing
for Dior.] We closed May Co., one
third of our distribution. We dried
up all the diversion, got rid of all the
promotions, started a makeup artistry
events program and went after great
space and location, slowly reentering
stores where fashion was — Neiman,
Bergdorf and Saks. At the time, on
NPD, we ranked about 13th as a
brand in the U.S. This year, we will
be the number-five selling brand….
It cost money but we came back to
profit within two years. We recouped
almost all of it within two years.
In terms of fragrance, I believe that
the Dior Sauvage men’s fragrance is
going to be number one this year.
Dior has never held the number-one
rank in fragrances at any point in our
career here.
Also, there’s a campaign that we’re
about to launch for J’adore, called
Chin Up. It’s a good time for Dior to
really take a stand for the strength
and support of all women. It’s going
to be on social media.
What is the biggest challenge
the industry faces today?
T.D.: The big concern is the drop in
the color cosmetics business. Some
of that is tied to Sephora, but some of
that is tied to an over reliance on same
old, same old. If palettes are hot, let’s
bring out a million. Instead of relying
on really building your basics, they
wanted nothing but newness all the
time. I learned from Leonard [Lauder],
you have to focus on the bread and
butter stockkeeping units that you can
rely on day in and day out.
What magic ingredient do you
need in designing a business?
T.D.: You have to have the right
performance-based product to put
in the market. How are you going to
market it? You have to have a high level
of digital social media marketing skills.
What is going to make you stand out —
is it celebrity? Celebrity endorsements
are waning. It’s more like personal
individuals who create things. Where
are you going to sell it? Are you
just going to sell it online or work
with a retailer and try to control the
overhead? It’s expensive to do business
with a retailer. Very expensive.
How would you describe your
leadership style? Especially in
this perilous time of pandemic
and an ever-changing market?
T.D.: You visit stores a lot; you interact
with associates, get their point of view.
That is why I traveled so much. I always
made sure with these store visits, that
[the associates] felt they could see me
and talk to me. The human touch was
always number one for me.
What is your position on
mentoring? T.D.: I talk to my top-level team
members a lot about how they are
advocating for their team members.
How do they help to navigate the
careers of not only themselves, but
the people who work for them. The
thirtysomethings crave it.
We started a mid-year career
[review] program in the U.S., because
it seemed to me that once a year was
not enough.
[With that age group] after five
years, they are all looking to go
do something else. When we were
young, we took it for granted that
someone would take care of our
careers and tell us when it was time
to move to the next thing. This
generation feels very strongly that if
no one has promoted them within
four years, they are out.Terry Darland The veteran beauty executive looks back on a storied career on the eve of being honored at the Look Good Feel Better Dream Ball. BY PETE BORN
DIRECT CONNECT: @Terry.Darland
Darland’s Rise Through the Ranks: 1980: Joins the Estée Lauder Cos. as Clinique’s first Account Coordinator in the U.S. 1986: Named regional sales manager of Prescriptives. 1995: Becomes vice president of sales at Prescriptives. 1999: Switches gears to become vice president of marketing at Aramis/Tommy Hilfiger Fragrances. 2001: Adds the education function to her repertoire by being named vice president of sales and education of Prescriptives / Kate Spade Beauty. 2004: Moves to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where she is named senior vice president of Christian Dior Perfumes & Cosmetics NA. 2009: Named President, North America, of Christian Dior Perfumes and Cosmetics 2012: Adds president of Guerlain to her LVMH responsibilities.
11
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
STUDENT COUNSEL
SARAH KENDALL S E N I O R , U N I V E R S I T Y O F F LO R I D AI’m originally from the Virginia side
of the D.C. area, but I wanted to do
something different and get away
from home. I’m subletting a friend’s
room in Gainesville, Fla.
I love makeup and beauty, and I
started watching Beauty YouTubers
in sixth grade. I still do now.
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve gotten
more minimalistic. I did a lot more
eyeshadow and eyeliner every day in
high school. When I was younger,
I used to buy a lot more, too.
Recently, I’m trying to be more
sustainable, so I’m putting toward
efforts to not buy as much.
I think it’s really cool to support
small and especially multicultural
businesses. For example, there’s Beauty
Bakerie; it has a different ingredient in
its powder that’s actually a solid point
of differentiation. I know Target started
stocking this woman-owned brand,
and it would be cool to see more small,
multicultural beauty products in stores.
Before, there was green-washing,
and now there’s diversity-washing.
Especially all the companies telling
their plans. It’s cool to see their facts,
and it would definitely influence me
to buy some brands over others, but
I’m paying more attention to who’s
being silent.
I hope stores will start to want to
inform their customers and maybe
even put more displays highlighting
smaller or diversely owned brands.
ANAHI AMARO S O P H O M O R E , E A S T E R N M I C H I G A N U N I V E R S I T YI live in a house full of women. My
routine varies because I learn a lot
from my sisters and my mom, we each
have a thing. I do hair, my sister does
nails, my other sister does eyelashes.
When I was in school, I used to just
wash my face and put on moisturizer.
This quarantine has changed self-care
for me. I’ve been really taking care
of my skin. When the stores opened
up, we tried not to go, but we entered
small stores. We ended up finding
a couple of products that changed
the game for us. I have oily-to-dry
skin, and I can never find the perfect
moisturizer—they are either too sticky
or too moisturizing. I found a Pond’s
moisturizer, and it’s my favorite.
On social media, when all these
celebrities and influencers were
being outed for racism, it definitely
stopped me from buying their
products. Black Lives Matter has
opened my eyes to small businesses
and Black-owned brands. My sisters
have been buying stuff from Black-
owned brands, too.
SERENA JAYAWARDENAS O P H O M O R E , R U TG E R S U N I V E R S I T Y B U S I N E S S S C H O O LOnline school doesn’t feel that
different, but it is different. My friends
and I have been socially distancing and
hanging out in our own cars, just so
we get to go say hello. We play video
games together, so that makes it easy.
I’m pretty low-key, but I do have
makeup and skin-care routines. On
TikTok, I can see people using just
a few simple things and their skin
is glowing. I try to keep it simple —
cleanser, moisturizer, and that’s it.
For makeup, I’ll do something for my
lips, some eyeliner and mascara. I try
not to do too much. Especially now,
it’s not like I’m going anywhere.
I didn’t wear makeup that much
at school, I’d sweat it all off and be
stressed out. Now it’s more laid back.
What I’m really looking forward to
is Morphe 2 from Charli & Dixie
D’Amelio. It’ll be fun to try out
new stuff. Now that I don’t have to
worry about people seeing me, I can
try whatever and not worry about
people thinking ‘Oh, my god, she’s so
bad at makeup.’
I haven’t been really looking to shop
recently, but it’s great to see people
giving their platform to Black-owned
brands. If you’re going to sell things
to a diverse demographic, you should
have people who know what they’re
talking about, and the only way to do
that is a diverse workforce. I’m not
exactly sure which brands to try yet,
but when I look for a new foundation
to buy, I’m definitely going to be
looking for a Black-owned brand.
RAHMA ABDULLAHIJ U N I O R , O H I O S TAT E U N I V E R S I T Y“I’m from Columbus, Ohio. My
parents emigrated here from Somalia
in 1997. I go to Ohio State University.
Midway, we transitioned online.
I actually liked it. I could always
rewatch recorded classes, especially
when studying.
I also talk to my friends on
FaceTime. The only other thing I’m
doing besides Zoom is organizing
with some friends that go to a local
high school. We’re trying to get cops
out of schools.
I’ve been organizing a lot of
protests, and I tell people not to
wear makeup. If you get teargassed,
it stays on your skin if you have
makeup on. I’m definitely using a lot
more skin care than makeup.
But I love makeup, I love skin
care, I love all of it. I just got so into
it freshman year in high school.
Normally, I’d go to Sephora or Ulta or
my local beauty store, but I’ve been
shopping a lot online. Also, I’ve been
doing curbside pickup at Ulta.
I now have more time to do research
on the companies I’m buying from.
I’m pushing myself to just buy Black.
For example, Bahi Cosmetics [Ed note:
now called Ayele &Co.], they’re Black-
owned. I also love the Lip Bar.
I want brands to do more. You have
a really big platform, you should use it
for good. It’s important for brands to
be diverse. I started paying attention
because you can talk as much as you
want about Black Lives Matter, but if
you’re not implementing your ideas
into your own company, then I don’t
believe you.
EDITOR’S NOTE: Student Counsel is a feature that
garners consumer feedback. WWD
Beauty Inc partners with Chegg,
the leading student-first connected
learning platform known by
87 percent of college students, to
identify our panel, who agreed
to share their unfiltered opinion.
Collegiate Conscious Consumerism Four students weigh in on beauty, brand values and Black Lives Matter. AS TOLD TO JAMES MANSO
Serena Jayawardena
Sarah Kendall Anahi Amaro
Rahma Abdullahi
12
SEPTEMBER 25, 2020
EYE CANDY
Dream Time¬ Few industries band together as effectively as beauty when it comes to raising money for a notable cause. Take the BeautyCares Dream Ball, which has raised tens of millions of dollars since its inception for the Look Good Feel Better program. The event, held in late September, also unofficially kicks off the fall beauty “season,” a night when even the cavernous Cipriani is packed cheek-to-jowl with
execs. Although this year’s event, held Sept. 24 virtually, looked very different, it was no less buzzy, with honorees Terry Darland of Dior, Keech Combe Shetty of Combe and Rick Tolin of Lubrizol Advanced Materials, and entrepreneur Susanna Quinn recognized as survivor advocate. To celebrate the evening, Beauty Inc combed our archives for a look back at some of the Dream Ball’s most memorable moments. —Jenny B. Fine
Terry Darland in 2012.
Fabrizio Freda in 2012.
Jonathan Zrihen and Marc Rey in 2016.
tk caption
Carol Hamilton in 2012. tk caption
Stephane de la Faverie in 2016.
Valisia Lekae in 2016.
Drew Barrymore in 2015.
Rayuana Aleyce and Chef Roblé Al in 2013.
William Lauder and Thia Breen in 2012.
Daniel Annesse and Jane Hertzmark Hudis in 2016.
Jerry Vittoria, Goldie Hawn and Pam Baxter in 2013. Ha
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