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16.2 Waves Waves are energy being transferred through water.
Greater wind = greater waves
Anatomy of a wave
wave period: The time it takes one full wave to pass through a fixed position
crest: top of the wave
trough: bottom of the wave
wavelength: horizontal length between two successive crests
wave height: vertical length between the trough and crest
Wave characteristics are determined by 3 factors:
● Wind speed
● Length of time the wind has blown
● Fetch: distance that the wind has traveled across the water
Waves break when the depth of the water is half as deep as the wave is tall.
Mavericks
Tides
Tides: regular changes in elevation of the ocean surface
● result from the differences in gravitational attraction by the moon and the sun
Tidal range: difference in height between successive high & low tides
Tides
Spring tides: greatest tidal range occurring during new and full moon, when Earth, the moon and the Sun are aligned.
Neap tides: smallest tidal range occurring during 1st and 3rd quarter moons, when gravitational forces of the moon and sun offset each other
1. diurnal tides: one high tide every 24 hours
3. mixed tides: one pronounced high tide & a smaller one
2. semidiurnal tides: two high tides every 24 hours of about the same height
Three main tidal patterns:
Today’s tides
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