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Velodyssey 5: Re and La Charente La Rochelle, Re Island to the Garonne Estuary
GPS data: Distance: 209km ; Avg speed: 16.1 km/h; Max speed:47.8 km/h; Elevation gain:
448m; Elevation loss: 453m; Max elevation:28m; Time: 12:59:30.
The coast of the Charente region is bordered by two large islands, Re and Oleron. The two
islands are accessible with a bridge and visiting at least one island is part of the adventure. To
reach the next destination, Royan we need to cross the Charente River and there are several
ways to do it. The velodyssey is here at its heart.
Day 11: (90km) Though La Rochelle is branded as the most bicycle friendly city in France it
cannot be verified as soon as you cycle more than a few kilometres. I finally find a way to reach
the bridge leading to Re Island, but the way is pretty grim between motorway, airport and
industrial harbour. The bridge is also very uninviting and mostly designed for fast cars but at
least it is free for bicycles. The contrast is great when reaching the
other side of the long bridge; there are several well designed cycle
tracks and many cyclists. It has to be said the cycle is not ideal as
the wind is blowing in the wrong direction and it makes it very
tough but flocks of tourists and families on bicycles do not seem to
mind. Most villages and houses have a ‘South’ feeling with white
walls, squares to relax, churches but some places are not very typical and littered with tourist
Les Sables
d’Olonne
La Rochelle Phare des
Baleines La Rochelle Charente transporter bridge Royan
shops. Loix-en-re is the nicest village with all the surrounding saltmarshes. Though they produce salt many marshes are now covered with purple and red
carpets of Salicornia and Limonium. Going back to La-Rochelle and next to the famous La-Rochelle towers is the only Ice-cream shop (would you believe it….)
not to mention the queue there. But it has to be said possibly the greatest choice I have never seen proposed in an ice cream shop.
(I had red-currants; basil and lime, grape-fruit.). Another
less famous sight in La-Rochelle is the End-of-The-World
Lighthouse which is a reproduction of the one described in
Jules Verne Novel and located in Tierra del Fuego. Tonight is
more luxurious as I am sleeping in my dad and his dog’s
camper van near les Minimes.
Day 12: (119km) Today I met Arnaud again, he caught up with me as I made a
detour to Re Island the day before. The beginning is well marked and on quiet
roads but mostly going along some kind of motorway until we reach Rochefort.
There I lost Arnaud again as it was his break time. There are several options to
cross the Charente River but I decided to take the unofficial one not agreeing with
the velodyssey. Without waiting and for 2 Euros I cross the river on one of the last
6 remaining transporter bridge in the world. This was all quite fun but because I
did not follow the velodyssey there are no more signs on the other side. Quickly
found the way thanks to the GPS, except that I went on the wrong side of the
canal de la Seudre. I soon need to scramble through bushes and long grasses to
get to the next bridge and join the velodyssey again. At Marennes I would advice
to use the Ferry instead of the bridge, this is very similar design to the Re island
one and not very pleasing. The rest of the journey goes through the pine forest
which from now on will become something very familiar; as well as the obligatory
afternoon swim (call it more like washing machine swim because of the huge waves). Royan has an impressive modern cathedral which is magnificent inside,
not many vegetarian options and some pretty expensive camp sites again.
To follow Velodyssey 6: Gironde
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