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News and views from around Zambia. Main feature: Kasanka's Bat Migration. Forget Serengeti's wildebeast herds, Africa's biggest migration of mammals occurs in a small forest in northern Zambia. We visit Kasanka and discover the bats were just the start of the action.
Citation preview
May 2010 wwwtravelzambiamagcom extra
wingswingsSpread your
wingsKasankarsquos mind-blowing bat migration
Jumbos in reception
Record-breaking twitchers
World Cup hideaways
Events around Zambia
INSIDE
The Extra reachMwaiseni Welcome to the fi rst edition of
TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA a supplementary
publication to our main Travel Zambia
magazine which has proven highly popular
since its launch in May 2007
To build on the success of Travel Zambia
and enable us to reach more readers around
the world more frequently wersquore making
some changes to our traditional format
First wersquore going to publish four times
a year rather than twice There will now
be one bumper issue at the end of each
year and three ldquoExtrardquo editions which will
each focus on a particular subject allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you
plan your Zambian travels
Second wersquore going to distribute all
copies free as digital fl ipbooks Not only will
this allow easier access for readers across
the world it will also enable us to bring
audio and video into a more content-rich
experience in the future
But if you prefer your magazines in
printed format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies
are available on subscription for a nominal
fee to cover print and postage costs
Itrsquos an exciting time and we hope yoursquoll
enjoy your Zambian exploration even more
ndash starting with our detailed look at Kasanka
in this issue Happy reading
MIKE UNWIN EDITOR
2 Travel Zambia
Nkani News middot views middot people middot places middot conservation middot community middot wildlife middot culture
Checking inMfuwe Lodge is one of the best-known lodges in South Luangwa National Park where its comfortable accommodation and spacious grounds offer guests a warm welcome in the heart of the bush These guests however are not confi ned to the human variety With the lodge open to the surrounding bush and overlooking a busy waterhole a steady stream of other visitors passes through enjoying the facilities as they do so
Wonky Tusk is one such visitor Come the end of October each year this female elephant ndash easily identifi able by her backward-facing right tusk ndash arrives with her family to feast on the wild mango trees (Cordyla africana) that fruit in the lodge grounds Like all good guests this parade of pachyderms fi rst checks in at reception before trooping straight through the tiled lobby towards the goodies beyond
In November 2009 Wonky Tusk delighted visitors by introducing the latest addition to the group her newborn calf Wellington Born just two days earlier this mini jumbo had some diffi culty negotiating the steep steps of reception but mastered the trick on his way out by sliding on his backside
Perhaps more alarming was the pride of sixteen lions that had camped out in the lodge grounds a few days earlier Guests returning from a lion-less game drive one morning were astonished to fi nd the big cats sprawled across the wooden walkways and lounging on the lawns Three of the more exuberant youngsters took a liking to the walkway lights which they soon demolished Departing guests who had to return to their rooms to pack were accompanied by an armed game guide until the cats could be persuaded to take their holiday elsewhere Find out more at wwwbushcampcompanycom
Wonky Tusk in reception (top) Wellington with mum (below) lions in the lodge (bottom)
In Zambia you donrsquot have to go far to see big game In fact sometimes you neednrsquot even leave your breakfast table or bedroom as visitors to Mfuwe Lodge found out to their astonishment last November
TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA is published three times a year to complement TRAVEL ZAMBIA magazine published each November All issues of TRAVEL ZAMBIA (and TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA) are available free of charge in digital format or in printed format for a small chargeFor orders or more information visitwwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
TRAVEL ZAMBIA is published by Travel Africa Ltd 4 Rycote Lane Farm Milton Common Oxford OX9 2NZ United Kingdom wwwtravelafricamagcomTel +44 (0)1844 278883 Fax +44 (0)1844 278893
Publisher Craig Rix (craigtravelafricamagcom)Editor Mike Unwin (miketravelafricamagcom)Production Phil Clisby (philtravelafricamagcom)Designer Lisa DukeCover Straw-coloured fruit bats (Stephen Cunliffe)
Find out more at wwwbushcampcompanycom
DAN
A AL
LEN
OLI D
REIKE
OLI D
REIKE
CHIPEMBELE
Travel Zambia 3
World Cup watering holesChipolopolo may not have qualifi ed but excitement about the fi rst African World Cup is at fever pitch in soccer-mad Lusaka If you fi nd yourself in town when the action kicks off on 11 June then why not follow Kieron Humphrey to one of his favourite football haunts and catch a slice of the action local-style
ZAMBIA BOOSTS BIRD RECORDIn September 2008 two British birders Alan Davies and Ruth Miller visited Zambia during their audacious bid to break the world record for the number of bird species seen in one calendar year Their amazing global total of 4341 species smashed the previous
record of 3662 and Zambia added a number of vital new species including the endemic Chaplinrsquos barbet ldquoIf this is what Zambian birding is likerdquo writes Alan after watching a pennant-winged nightjar during their fi rst night in Lusaka ldquothen we should do just fi nerdquo Read all about the couplersquos mad dash around the world in The Biggest Twitch (AampC Black) to be published in July this year or visit their website at httpthebiggesttwitchcom
Tucked into a side street near the Southern Sun and Taj Pamodzi the Smugglers Inn is a welcome antidote to air-con and conference chatter Itrsquos small inside but boasts beer on draught several screens and lively regulars Location Suez Road between Church and Chikwa Ridgeway Go completely local at Cheers Bar in Chilenje The decor is more McDonaldrsquos than its Boston namesake but the owner Mike makes up for it with his warm welcome Arrive early for weekend games ndash the place will be packed Location Chris Corner at the junction of Mosi-ao-Tunya and Maramba Roads Chilenje The spacious beer garden at Green Ethiopian Restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a drink before the game The matches are all on big
screen and you can boost your energy with a plate of delicious injera and shiro if it goes to extra time Location Corner of Chainama and Katima Mulilo Roads Olympia Park For a more rustic setting head to Eureka Camp Popular with locals as well as tourists the bar is in a giant thatched rondavel in a wooded setting where the other kind of African game roams the lawns outside Location Kafue Road 10km from the city centre opposite Baobab College An upmarket option ndash with prices to match ndash is Portico home of Lusakarsquos most authentic pizzas and best-stocked bar If yoursquore tempted to show off some fancy footwork of your own therersquos a fi ve-a-side pitch right next door Location Agricultural Society Showgrounds off Nangwenya Road
CHIPEMBELE SCOOPS FIRST PRIZEIn March this year Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust was awarded Zambiarsquos top prize in the Educating Africa 2009 Pan-African Awards for Entrepreneurship in Education This competition run by UK-based education charity Teach a Man to Fish (wwwteachamantofi shorguk) selected the trust from over 260 applicants for its innovative work in community and conservation education Chipembele picked up a cheque for US$1000 which will boost its many important projects in the South Luangwa region from tree planting to conservation outreach ldquoWe were delighted to receive the awardrdquo said co-founder Anna Tolan ldquoNot only does it raise the profi le of Chipembele but it also highlights the importance of conservation education across the whole African continentrdquo Find out more at wwwchipembeleorg
Making friends with warthogs at Chipembele
DEB
BIE
BAR
NES
RUTH
MIL
LER
4 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
BATS BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers have wings not hooves When Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers
Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
amp
Travel Zambia 5
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
amp
Sunrise at Kasanka sees up to eight million straw-coloured fruit
bats return to their roost
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
The Extra reachMwaiseni Welcome to the fi rst edition of
TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA a supplementary
publication to our main Travel Zambia
magazine which has proven highly popular
since its launch in May 2007
To build on the success of Travel Zambia
and enable us to reach more readers around
the world more frequently wersquore making
some changes to our traditional format
First wersquore going to publish four times
a year rather than twice There will now
be one bumper issue at the end of each
year and three ldquoExtrardquo editions which will
each focus on a particular subject allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you
plan your Zambian travels
Second wersquore going to distribute all
copies free as digital fl ipbooks Not only will
this allow easier access for readers across
the world it will also enable us to bring
audio and video into a more content-rich
experience in the future
But if you prefer your magazines in
printed format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies
are available on subscription for a nominal
fee to cover print and postage costs
Itrsquos an exciting time and we hope yoursquoll
enjoy your Zambian exploration even more
ndash starting with our detailed look at Kasanka
in this issue Happy reading
MIKE UNWIN EDITOR
2 Travel Zambia
Nkani News middot views middot people middot places middot conservation middot community middot wildlife middot culture
Checking inMfuwe Lodge is one of the best-known lodges in South Luangwa National Park where its comfortable accommodation and spacious grounds offer guests a warm welcome in the heart of the bush These guests however are not confi ned to the human variety With the lodge open to the surrounding bush and overlooking a busy waterhole a steady stream of other visitors passes through enjoying the facilities as they do so
Wonky Tusk is one such visitor Come the end of October each year this female elephant ndash easily identifi able by her backward-facing right tusk ndash arrives with her family to feast on the wild mango trees (Cordyla africana) that fruit in the lodge grounds Like all good guests this parade of pachyderms fi rst checks in at reception before trooping straight through the tiled lobby towards the goodies beyond
In November 2009 Wonky Tusk delighted visitors by introducing the latest addition to the group her newborn calf Wellington Born just two days earlier this mini jumbo had some diffi culty negotiating the steep steps of reception but mastered the trick on his way out by sliding on his backside
Perhaps more alarming was the pride of sixteen lions that had camped out in the lodge grounds a few days earlier Guests returning from a lion-less game drive one morning were astonished to fi nd the big cats sprawled across the wooden walkways and lounging on the lawns Three of the more exuberant youngsters took a liking to the walkway lights which they soon demolished Departing guests who had to return to their rooms to pack were accompanied by an armed game guide until the cats could be persuaded to take their holiday elsewhere Find out more at wwwbushcampcompanycom
Wonky Tusk in reception (top) Wellington with mum (below) lions in the lodge (bottom)
In Zambia you donrsquot have to go far to see big game In fact sometimes you neednrsquot even leave your breakfast table or bedroom as visitors to Mfuwe Lodge found out to their astonishment last November
TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA is published three times a year to complement TRAVEL ZAMBIA magazine published each November All issues of TRAVEL ZAMBIA (and TRAVEL ZAMBIA EXTRA) are available free of charge in digital format or in printed format for a small chargeFor orders or more information visitwwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
TRAVEL ZAMBIA is published by Travel Africa Ltd 4 Rycote Lane Farm Milton Common Oxford OX9 2NZ United Kingdom wwwtravelafricamagcomTel +44 (0)1844 278883 Fax +44 (0)1844 278893
Publisher Craig Rix (craigtravelafricamagcom)Editor Mike Unwin (miketravelafricamagcom)Production Phil Clisby (philtravelafricamagcom)Designer Lisa DukeCover Straw-coloured fruit bats (Stephen Cunliffe)
Find out more at wwwbushcampcompanycom
DAN
A AL
LEN
OLI D
REIKE
OLI D
REIKE
CHIPEMBELE
Travel Zambia 3
World Cup watering holesChipolopolo may not have qualifi ed but excitement about the fi rst African World Cup is at fever pitch in soccer-mad Lusaka If you fi nd yourself in town when the action kicks off on 11 June then why not follow Kieron Humphrey to one of his favourite football haunts and catch a slice of the action local-style
ZAMBIA BOOSTS BIRD RECORDIn September 2008 two British birders Alan Davies and Ruth Miller visited Zambia during their audacious bid to break the world record for the number of bird species seen in one calendar year Their amazing global total of 4341 species smashed the previous
record of 3662 and Zambia added a number of vital new species including the endemic Chaplinrsquos barbet ldquoIf this is what Zambian birding is likerdquo writes Alan after watching a pennant-winged nightjar during their fi rst night in Lusaka ldquothen we should do just fi nerdquo Read all about the couplersquos mad dash around the world in The Biggest Twitch (AampC Black) to be published in July this year or visit their website at httpthebiggesttwitchcom
Tucked into a side street near the Southern Sun and Taj Pamodzi the Smugglers Inn is a welcome antidote to air-con and conference chatter Itrsquos small inside but boasts beer on draught several screens and lively regulars Location Suez Road between Church and Chikwa Ridgeway Go completely local at Cheers Bar in Chilenje The decor is more McDonaldrsquos than its Boston namesake but the owner Mike makes up for it with his warm welcome Arrive early for weekend games ndash the place will be packed Location Chris Corner at the junction of Mosi-ao-Tunya and Maramba Roads Chilenje The spacious beer garden at Green Ethiopian Restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a drink before the game The matches are all on big
screen and you can boost your energy with a plate of delicious injera and shiro if it goes to extra time Location Corner of Chainama and Katima Mulilo Roads Olympia Park For a more rustic setting head to Eureka Camp Popular with locals as well as tourists the bar is in a giant thatched rondavel in a wooded setting where the other kind of African game roams the lawns outside Location Kafue Road 10km from the city centre opposite Baobab College An upmarket option ndash with prices to match ndash is Portico home of Lusakarsquos most authentic pizzas and best-stocked bar If yoursquore tempted to show off some fancy footwork of your own therersquos a fi ve-a-side pitch right next door Location Agricultural Society Showgrounds off Nangwenya Road
CHIPEMBELE SCOOPS FIRST PRIZEIn March this year Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust was awarded Zambiarsquos top prize in the Educating Africa 2009 Pan-African Awards for Entrepreneurship in Education This competition run by UK-based education charity Teach a Man to Fish (wwwteachamantofi shorguk) selected the trust from over 260 applicants for its innovative work in community and conservation education Chipembele picked up a cheque for US$1000 which will boost its many important projects in the South Luangwa region from tree planting to conservation outreach ldquoWe were delighted to receive the awardrdquo said co-founder Anna Tolan ldquoNot only does it raise the profi le of Chipembele but it also highlights the importance of conservation education across the whole African continentrdquo Find out more at wwwchipembeleorg
Making friends with warthogs at Chipembele
DEB
BIE
BAR
NES
RUTH
MIL
LER
4 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
BATS BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers have wings not hooves When Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers
Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
amp
Travel Zambia 5
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
amp
Sunrise at Kasanka sees up to eight million straw-coloured fruit
bats return to their roost
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
CHIPEMBELE
Travel Zambia 3
World Cup watering holesChipolopolo may not have qualifi ed but excitement about the fi rst African World Cup is at fever pitch in soccer-mad Lusaka If you fi nd yourself in town when the action kicks off on 11 June then why not follow Kieron Humphrey to one of his favourite football haunts and catch a slice of the action local-style
ZAMBIA BOOSTS BIRD RECORDIn September 2008 two British birders Alan Davies and Ruth Miller visited Zambia during their audacious bid to break the world record for the number of bird species seen in one calendar year Their amazing global total of 4341 species smashed the previous
record of 3662 and Zambia added a number of vital new species including the endemic Chaplinrsquos barbet ldquoIf this is what Zambian birding is likerdquo writes Alan after watching a pennant-winged nightjar during their fi rst night in Lusaka ldquothen we should do just fi nerdquo Read all about the couplersquos mad dash around the world in The Biggest Twitch (AampC Black) to be published in July this year or visit their website at httpthebiggesttwitchcom
Tucked into a side street near the Southern Sun and Taj Pamodzi the Smugglers Inn is a welcome antidote to air-con and conference chatter Itrsquos small inside but boasts beer on draught several screens and lively regulars Location Suez Road between Church and Chikwa Ridgeway Go completely local at Cheers Bar in Chilenje The decor is more McDonaldrsquos than its Boston namesake but the owner Mike makes up for it with his warm welcome Arrive early for weekend games ndash the place will be packed Location Chris Corner at the junction of Mosi-ao-Tunya and Maramba Roads Chilenje The spacious beer garden at Green Ethiopian Restaurant is an ideal spot to grab a drink before the game The matches are all on big
screen and you can boost your energy with a plate of delicious injera and shiro if it goes to extra time Location Corner of Chainama and Katima Mulilo Roads Olympia Park For a more rustic setting head to Eureka Camp Popular with locals as well as tourists the bar is in a giant thatched rondavel in a wooded setting where the other kind of African game roams the lawns outside Location Kafue Road 10km from the city centre opposite Baobab College An upmarket option ndash with prices to match ndash is Portico home of Lusakarsquos most authentic pizzas and best-stocked bar If yoursquore tempted to show off some fancy footwork of your own therersquos a fi ve-a-side pitch right next door Location Agricultural Society Showgrounds off Nangwenya Road
CHIPEMBELE SCOOPS FIRST PRIZEIn March this year Chipembele Wildlife Education Trust was awarded Zambiarsquos top prize in the Educating Africa 2009 Pan-African Awards for Entrepreneurship in Education This competition run by UK-based education charity Teach a Man to Fish (wwwteachamantofi shorguk) selected the trust from over 260 applicants for its innovative work in community and conservation education Chipembele picked up a cheque for US$1000 which will boost its many important projects in the South Luangwa region from tree planting to conservation outreach ldquoWe were delighted to receive the awardrdquo said co-founder Anna Tolan ldquoNot only does it raise the profi le of Chipembele but it also highlights the importance of conservation education across the whole African continentrdquo Find out more at wwwchipembeleorg
Making friends with warthogs at Chipembele
DEB
BIE
BAR
NES
RUTH
MIL
LER
4 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
BATS BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers have wings not hooves When Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers
Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
amp
Travel Zambia 5
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
amp
Sunrise at Kasanka sees up to eight million straw-coloured fruit
bats return to their roost
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
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4 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
BATS BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers have wings not hooves When Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
BEYONDForget Serengetirsquos wildebeest herds Africarsquos biggest migration of mammals occurs once a year in a small forest in northern Zambia ndash and these wanderers
Stephen Cunliffe visited the fabled bat roost of Kasanka however he discovered that the bats were just the start of the action
amp
Travel Zambia 5
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
amp
Sunrise at Kasanka sees up to eight million straw-coloured fruit
bats return to their roost
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia 5
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
amp
Sunrise at Kasanka sees up to eight million straw-coloured fruit
bats return to their roost
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
e stumbled and
squelched deeper into
the swamp beneath a
brilliant star-studded sky The
sucking mud of the waterlogged
forest floor made every step an effort This was my
first early morning foray into Kasankarsquos legendary
mushitu swamp forest and as I plodded forward
I kept a watchful eye on the reassuring bobbing
of my guidersquos headlamp 20m ahead Kenneth
lsquoBatmanrsquo Changwe with 15 years experience in the
park as scout and guide was my trusty companion
Soon we arrived at the base of a gigantic
waterberry ldquoWe go up thererdquo said Changwe
indicating a rickety-looking ladder that disappeared
into the inky blackness ldquoCarefullyrdquo he added
An exhilarating climb took us to a platform 20m
above the forest floor an ideal spot from which to
greet sunrise Then just as the first fingers of dawn
were appearing the magic began clouds of bats
appeared in the sky and started to descend on us For
the next 45 minutes they rained down squadron
after squadron returning from a long night of gorging
on forest fruit their enormous wingspans and sheer
numbers darkening the sky and obscuring the dawn
We watched in awed silence as the bat blizzard
raged around us the winged hordes swarming over
the forest in their millions as they searched for a safe
landing in the overcrowded roost Irsquod heard about
this ndash even seen the pictures ndash but at first hand the
scale of it was overwhelming
This extraordinary event once Zambiarsquos best-
kept secret recently reached a wider audience via
the BBCrsquos Life series with David Attenborough But
here in Kasanka it is nothing new each year from
late October colonies of straw-coloured fruit bats
begin to converge on ten hectares of swamp forest
inside Kasanka National Park having travelled
from the Congo Basin Millions join in what is
one of Africarsquos largest and most spectacular
6 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
TOP The Fibwe hide offers a perfect vantage point from which to scan Kasankarsquos wetlands OPPOSITE TOP Bat numbers in the Mushitu swamp forest peak in late NovemberBELOW OPPOSITE Ongoing research including the use of satellite telemetry aims to establish exactly how far the bats travel each year
Then just as the first fingers of dawn were appearing the magic began clouds of bats appeared in the sky and started to descend on us
Dav
iD B
aile
y
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
STeP
HeN
CU
Nli
FFe
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia 7
STEPHEN CUNLIFFE
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
8 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
movements of animals ndash the numbers dwarfi ng
even that of Serengetirsquos wildebeest migration
The whole astonishing spectacle is short-lived
a ten-week blockbuster show The bats continue
their relentless descent on the same remnant
patch of forest until their numbers swell to a mind-
boggling eight million around the third week in
November By early January with the fruit supply
exhausted the last stragglers abandon Kasanka
following their comrades back north in search of
richer feeding grounds
Back at Wasa Lodge I discussed the morningrsquos
adventures over a late breakfast with Frank Willems
the park ecologist ldquoKasankarsquos biggest
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
there is plenty on offer all year roundrdquo
He was sure that after a week exploring
the park and sampling its activities
Irsquod know what he was talking about
I drained my orange juice With
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
was keen to get back into the action
High on my priority list was
sitatunga as Irsquod heard that Kasanka
boasts Africarsquos best viewing
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
supposedly one of Africarsquos most shy and elusive
species yet Changwe made it sound as though they
were as common around here as impala in
the Luangwa
At the top of another set of crude ladders I found
myself seated high in a mululu (red mahogany)
overlooking the Kapabi Swamp This hide provided
a superb aerial vantage point for seeking out
sitatungas ndash and sure enough it wasnrsquot long before
I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and
twisted horns of a handsome male moving though
the dense reeds below Although we didnrsquot come
close to Changwersquos record I was delighted to notch
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km2 Kasanka National Park
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy dambos
drawcard is the batsrdquo Frank agreed ldquoBut
birding guided walks canoeing fi shing
and of course more bats on my agenda I
opportunities for this shy semi-aquatic
antelope Changwe backed this up ldquoOnce
I counted 94 in a single dayrdquo he told me as
we set out along the forest towards the famous
Fibwe hide I was fl abbergasted The sitatunga is
up 11 of these elusive antelope Indeed they proved
so plentiful that I was even treated to an afternoon
sighting at Wasa Lagoon while sipping a cold beer
on the camp deck Frank was not surprised when
I recounted my sightings later confi rming that
Kasankarsquos sitatungas were not only famous for
their high density but also their great visibility
ldquoBasically yoursquore guaranteed sightings here at any
time of yearrdquo he assured me
At just 420km
is a tiny reserve by African standards But
its location bridging the gap between the
drier habitats of southern Africa and the
moist Congo basin makes for a wide
range of habitats and ecosystems
including mushitu rainforest
rich papyrus swamp riverine
fl oodplains and grassy
TOP The bats roost in close proximity cramming in wherever they can fi nd a space LEFT A female straw-coloured fruit bat may measure nearly 1m across the wings OPPOSITE There is no better place to observe the elusive sitatunga than from Kasankarsquos Fibwe hide D
AVID
BAI
LEY
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia 9
Sure enough it wasnrsquot long before I had spied the distinctive nut-brown coat and twisted horns of a handsome male sitatunga moving though the dense reeds below
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
10 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
And this of course explains the impressive diversity
of wildlife within such a small area
Take birds On arrival I had found an entry in
the Wasa guestbook from the birding legend Ian
Sinclair that read ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some
of Africarsquos finest birdingrdquo High praise indeed
from such a source And Frank confirmed that a
remarkable 440 bird species have been recorded
here which is astounding considering the parkrsquos
size A keen birder himself he took me out through
the parkrsquos riverine forest in search of Pelrsquos fishing
owls And though we missed the owl on this
occasion we did notch up such notable sightings as
half-collared kingfisher and Rossrsquos turaco
Meanwhile our mammal count continued to
rise The next day on a fishing trip from Luwombwa
Camp I was excited to see a herd of elephants ndash an
increasingly common sight in Kasanka ndash feeding on
the grassy floodplains Puku and common duiker
were ubiquitous while our rarer sightings included
Lichtensteinrsquos hartebeest sable southern reedbuck
and even a troop of shy blue monkeys
The steady recent increase in prey numbers
has also meant other exciting visitors On morning
bush walks we picked up the distinctive tracks of
both spotted hyaena and leopard prompting Frank
to enthuse about a recent sighting of a leopard
on a baboon kill And perhaps the ultimate proof
that the Trustrsquos conservation efforts are bearing
fruit was last Augustrsquos arrival of a young male lion
the first to be seen in the park for many years Its
primordial roar resounding through the park told
an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are
on the way back
Yes Kasanka is too small to compete with the
likes of South Luangwa and the Lower Zambezi
in terms of animal densities and charismatic
species Yet it offers something special for nature
enthusiasts who want more than the Big Five
There is so much to do here with the varied habitat
cooler climate and low incidence of dangerous
game making the park ideal for walking safaris
biking and birding And for those who like to do
their thing far from the tourist hordes the low
tourist volumes ndash just 1435 visitors in 2009 ndash are a
real bonus
After a week roaming Kasanka I came to
feel as though Irsquod been gifted my own private
national park to explore I had been lured here by
the famous bats ndash and they were as spectacular as
promised ndash but I left the place blown away by its
sheer richness and diversity They say dynamite
comes in small packages Kasanka is no exception
Step
hen
Cu
nli
ffe
edm
un
d f
arm
er
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia 11
TOP LEFT Scan quiet backwaters carefully for a glimpse of the shy African fi nfootTOP RIGHT Greater bushbabies like the bats are drawn by night to fi gs and other fruiting trees LEFT Elephants often venture out onto the grassy fl oodplains along the Luwombwa River ABOVE Malachite kingfi shers fl ash like brilliant jewels along Kasankarsquos waterways
ldquoKasanka has undoubtedly some of Africarsquos fi nest birdingrdquo birding legend Ian Sinclair had written
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
DAVID BAILEY
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
12 Travel Zambia
Kasanka National Park
VISITOR INFORMATION
HOW TO GET THERE Charter fl ights from Profl ight and Sky Trails fl y directly into the park The alternative is a 5ndash6 hour drive on good tar roads from Lusaka fi ll up in Serenje (92km before Kasanka)
WHERE TO STAY The Kasanka Trust runs two fully-equipped camps and three self-catering campsites WASA CAMP in the east overlooks a lagoon with hippos and is well placed for the bats and Fibwe hide accommodation in thatched rondavels with en-suite bathrooms solar-powered lighting and a private veranda LUWOMBWA CAMP in the west overlooks the Luwombwa River and a grassy fl oodplain favoured by elephants three family en-suite chalets plus river-based activities and attractions THREE RUSTIC CAMPSITES ndash located at pontoon Kabwe and Fibwe ndash with long-drop toilets showers and a shelter and an attendant for hot water The Fibwe site is near the sitatunga hide and an easy walk from the bat roost
ACTIVITIES Game drives night drives guided walks mountain biking boat cruises canoe safaris and visits to the sitatunga hide and bat sites
WHEN TO VISIT Bat season is late October to early January Birding and fi shing are best over the wet season (November to April) Walking is easiest during the cooler dry season (June to October)
FIND OUT MORE AT wwwkasankacom
KASANKA BAT SAFARI Robin Pope Safaris run an annual bat safari in late NovemberEarly December includes a visit to the nearby Bangweulu swamps plus three nights in South Luangwa Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
ABOVE Once the fruit supply is exhausted in early January the bats start to leave Kasanka TOP RIGHT Tell-tale tracks reveal that lions are once again hunting at Kasanka RIGHT Puku are common in the park where they favour open fl oodplains
The lionrsquos primordial roar resounding through the park told an indisputable truth Kasankarsquos predators are on the way back
KASANKA NATIONAL
PARK
South Luangwa
NP
Luambe NP
NorthLuambe
NP
Lake Bangweulu
Mpika
Mfuwe
Mkushi
Ndola
Kapiri Mposhi
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia 13
Although Kasanka was formally declared a national park in 1972 it received little real
protection until the Kasanka Trust a non-profi t NGO was established in 1989 The following year it became Zambiarsquos fi rst privately managed national park Initially the Trustrsquos focus was on protecting Kasankarsquos habitats promoting wildlife recovery and securing the batsrsquo future Poaching was addressed by providing education and development support for the local community Management costs are currently covered by both tourism revenue and charitable support and the Trust aims to develop the parkrsquos infrastructure and increase tourism to the point where it can become self-sustaining Over-exploitation by neighbouring communities and wild fi res set by poachers remain a threat but to combat these challenges the Trust ndash in cooperation with the wildlife authority (ZAWA) ndash employs local scouts to patrol the park and burn fi rebreaks This has so far proved very successful with 36 poachers apprehended and 2818 snares removed during 2009 The Trust also helps protect the greater Bangweulu area including the Kafi nda GMA (a buffer zone surrounding Kasanka)
Find out more at wwwkasankacom
THE KASANKA TRUST
FRAN
K W
ILLE
MS
STEP
HEN
CU
NLI
FFE
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
So whatrsquos new in Zambia for 2010 After unusually torrential rains the safari season swung into action in April And this year promises more thrills than ever for the adventurous visitor with new wildlife destinations and a wealth of exciting new activities Here are a few of the highlights
Around ZambiaWhere to go middot activities middot conservation latest middot safari news
1 Ballooning Busanga Busanga Plains in the far north of Kafue National Park has been described as lsquoZambiarsquos Okavangorsquo with its panoramic grasslands drawing vast seasonal concentrations of wildlife In 2010 for the fi rst time visitors can view this stunning spectacle from a hot air balloon Wilderness Safaris are offering a free fl ight to any guest who stays three nights or more at one of their Busanga Plains camps Itrsquos a photographerrsquos dream clamber into the basket at sunrise and drift silently over birds in the tree tops hippos in the water herds grazing the plains and ndash with luck ndash lions on the prowl Find out more at wwwwilderness-safariscomW
ILD
ERN
ESS
SAFA
RIS
D
ANA
ALLE
N
14 Travel Zambia
4 Floodgate celebrationsLate rains this year have swelled Lake Kariba to unprecedented levels By April the lake was 81 full nearly 20 more than the same time last year and the Zambezi River Authority had opened three spillway gates 2010 marks the 50th anniversary of Kariba Dam To celebrate the lakeside town of Siavonga is hosting an array of events every weekend throughout May These include craft markets theatre performances canoe races and on 15 and 16 May a formal celebration complete with marching bands and cultural dancing Find out more at httpthebestofzambiacom
3 Dust sweat and gearsElephant Charge is a thrilling new challenge for off-roading enthusiasts who can pit their wheels against Zambiarsquos roughest terrain while raising money for conservation It takes place on 23-25 October at a secret location within two hours of Lusaka (to be divulged on the day of registration) Teams in either 4WD vehicles or on motorbikes will haul their machines through the bush in an attempt to complete the 20ndash30km course in the shortest distance possible All proceeds will go to
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the highest sponsorship raised The event is now open for entries Find out more at wwwelephantchargeorg
2 Explore Liuwa PlainThe vast open grassland of Liuwa Plain lies just west of the Zambezi River near Zambiarsquos border with Angola Famous for its migration of over 30000 wildebeest plus its spectacular birdlife and wild fl owers this little-known park is one of Africarsquos least visited Adventurous visitors now have a unique opportunity to explore Liuwa with Zambian guiding legend Robin Pope Safaris depart in the prime bird-watching months of MayJune and the peak migration season of NovemberDecember Staying in makeshift camps and cooking over an open fi re guests will experience the thrill of genuine wilderness Find out more at wwwrobinpopesafarisnet
various conservation and education programmes in Zambia with the Sausage Tree trophy awarded for the
The event is now open for entries wwwelephantchargeorg
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
ERIC
GAU
SS
MIK
E U
NW
IN
2 1Liuwa Plain NP
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Limulunga
Mongu
Kaoma
Livingstone
Kazungula
Victoria Falls
Zambezi River
Kafue River
Sioma Ngwezi NP
West Lunga NP
Kafue NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
0 200 miles100
0 300 km100 200
N
TZ
Travel Zambia 15
6 Trainees graduateIn April 2010 Conservation Lower Zambezi completed its annual safari guide training and examinations process run in conjunction with the Zambia Wildlife Authority The rigorous course involved lectures and fi eld trips for aspiring candidates followed by intensive theoretical exams Those who passed then underwent practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the top professional guides The result is a new infl ux of fully licensed guides for Lower Zambezi National Park who will also make a vital contribution to local conservation Find out more at wwwconservationlowerzambezicomzm
5 Swamp birdThe prehistoric-looking shoebill is one of Africarsquos most sought-after birds and there is no better place to look for it than Zambiarsquos Bangweulu Swamps The prime season to visit is from May to August when the shoebills move within closer reach of Shoebill Island Camp run by the Kasanka Trust This enormous fl ooded wilderness is also home to a rich variety of other birdlife plus large herds of endemic black lechwe ndash among many other antelope species ndash and smaller numbers of elephant and buffalo Find out more at wwwkasankacom
NEW CANOE SAFARI Sausage Tree Camp together with Chongwe and the new Tsika Island Camp has launched a new six-night luxury canoeing trail in the Lower Zambezi wwwsausagetreecampcom JONATHAN SCOTT SAFARI The Bushcamp Company is offering a special week-long safari to South Luangwa in November led by the BBCrsquos Big Cat Diary presenter Jonathan Scott and wildlife expert Phil Berry wwwbushcampcompanycom ANNIVERSARY DECKING To celebrate their 20th anniversary this year Tongabezi
are renovating their Garden Cottage adding extra appeal for family breaks and romantic hideaways wwwtongabezicom GUIDE HONOURED Head guide Abraham Banda of Norman Carr Safaris has been named the Best of Zambia Guide of the Year 2009 This year he will be leading several new safaris to celebrate the companyrsquos 60th anniversary wwwnormancarrsafariscom OLD MONDORO REFURBISHED Recently acquired by Chiawa Camp this rustic bushcamp in the Lower Zambezi opened in April after a complete
refurbishment The new accommodation features al fresco bathrooms and verandahs overlooking the river wwwchiawacom ANYONE FOR TENNIS The River Club now offers Livingstonersquos fi rst all-weather tennis court A small pavilion overlooking the court allows guests sitting out from play to relax overlooking the Zambezi wwwwilderness-safariscom NEW FLIGHTS TO LUSAKA Zambezi Airlines has introduced new services between Lusaka Lilongwe and Dar es Salaam wwwfl yzambezicom
SAFARI NEWS IN BRIEF
practical exams in the fi eld under the critical scrutiny of the
CON
SERV
ATIO
N L
OW
ER Z
AMB
EZI
ROB
IN P
OPE
SAF
ARIS
3
5
4
6
Livingstone
LUSAKA
KitweNdola
Chipata
Isoka
Kasama
Mpulungu
Chirundu
KapiriMposhi
Mkushi
Mfuwe
Mpika
L Tanganyika
L Bangweulu
L Mweru WantipaL Mweru
L Kariba
Zambezi RiverKafue River
Luan
gwa
Rive
r
Lower Zambezi NP
Kasanka NP
South LuangwaNP
NorthLuangwa
NP
Luambe NP
Sumbu NP
Lusenga NP
Lukusuzi NP
Blue Lagoon NP
Lochinvar NP
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia provides creative unique
content that meets the demand of the traveller
Drawing from top writers and photographers
the magazine gives a personal insight into the
country and its people
WHAT YOU GETTravel Zambia magazine Published annually in
November and consisting of at least 64 pages
this magazine covers the whole country in
detail providing an in-depth overview
Travel Zambia Extra Produced three times a
year and comprising a minimum of 16 pages
this supplementary publication will focus on
a particular subject in each issue allowing
us to provide you with more detailed
information and inspiration to help you plan
your Zambian travels
DISTRIBUTIONAll editions will be distributed FREE as digital
fl ipbooks either via download from our
website (wwwtravelzambiamagcom) and
partner sites or you can register to receive a
link to each issue as it is published
Register online at wwwtravelzambiamagcom
or email zambiatravelafricamagcom
But if you prefer your magazines in printed
format donrsquot worry ndash printed copies are
available on subscription for a nominal fee to
cover print and postage costs
Consult our website for prices or contact
us direct
16 Travel Zambia
Safari Planner Contact our partners for all your Zambia travel needs (Tell them you heard about them in Travel Zambia)
ANA TREE LODGE Walking safaris birding game viewing tiger fi shing and canoeing in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwanatreelodgecom middot anatreelodgezamnetzm
BAINES RIVER CAMP This true safari lodge offers a wide variety of activities in and around the Lower Zambeziwwwbainesrivercampcom middot sabinebainesrivercampcom
BUSH BUZZ Experts in travel ndash customised tours safari packages accommodation activities car hire fl ightswwwbush-buzzcom middot infobush-buzzcom
BUSHTRACKS AFRICA Your gateway to central and southern Africawwwbushtracksafricacom middot victoriafallsbushtracksafricacom
CHIAWA CAMP One of Africarsquos premier safari camps on the banks of the Zambezi River Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
FLATDOGS CAMP The only truly lsquofamily friendlyrsquo camp in the Luangwawwwfl atdogscampcom middot infofl atdogscampcom
ISLANDS OF SIANKABA Seven secluded chalets situated on two private islands between Vic Falls and Chobewwwsiankabanet middot siankabazamnetzm
KAFUNTA SAFARIS With Kafunta River Lodge and Island Bush Lodge the pride of the South Luangwa wwwluangwacom middot kafuntaluangwacom
KAINGU SAFARI LODGE Set in an area of pristine wilderness on one of Africarsquos great rivers ndash Kafuewwwkaingu-lodgecom middot reservationskaingu-lodgecom
KANYEMBA LODGE A secluded paradise on the banks of the Zambeziwwwkanyembacom middot infokanyembacom
LUANGWA RIVER LODGE An intimate owner-run lodge ndash your stylish safari retreatwwwluangwariverlodgenet middot reservationsluangwariverlodgenet
NANZHILA PLAINS SAFARI CAMP Situated in Kafue NP We offer remote Africa in its true unrefi ned beautywwwnanzhilacom middot infonanzhilacom
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS 60 years of excellence Based in the South Luangwa NP home of the walking safariwwwnormancarrsafariscom middot kapaninormancarrsafariscom
OLD MONDORO Intimate remote wild and just perfect The fi nest of bushcamps in the Lower Zambezi NPwwwchiawacom middot infochiawacom
PULSE AFRICA Our dedicated team focuses on crafting tailor-made holidays for discerning Africa travellerswwwpulseafricacom middot infopulseafricacom
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading tour operator Luxury is defi ned by service and this is where we excelwwwrobinpopesafarisnet middot inforobinpopesafarisnet
SAFARI CONSULTANTS Experienced UK operator specialising in tailor-made African safari holidayswwwsafari-consultantscouk middot infosafariconsultantukcom
SANCTUARY RETREATS Luxury naturally Lodges in Livingstone South Luangwa NP and Lower Zambezi NPwwwsanctuaryretreatscom middot infosanctuaryretreatscom
SHENTON SAFARIS Zambiarsquos leading wildlife and photographic operatorwwwshentonsafariscom middot infoshentonsafariscom
SOUTHERN SUN RIDGEWAY Enjoy the very best of Zambian hospitality in our recently refurbished Lusaka hotelwwwsouthernsuncom middot ressouthernsuncozm
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE Small personal lodge only 3km from the mighty Victoria Falls outside Livingstonewwwstanleysafariscom middot reservationsstanleysafariscom
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY Six exclusive camps in South Luangwa NP ndash an unrivalled wildlife experiencewwwbushcampcompanycom middot infobushcampcompanycom
VOYAGERS ZAMBIA LTD Your complete one-stop travel shop for the region experienced Zambian operatorwwwvoyagerszambiacom middot travelvoyagerszambiacomzm
WATERBRERY LODGE An informal family-friendly lodge close to Victoria Falls but in the heart of the wildwwwwaterberrylodgecom middot reservationswaterberrylodgecom
WILDERNESS SAFARIS Camps walking safaris and explorations in Kafue South Luangwa and Victoria Fallswwwwilderness-safariscom
WILDLIFE CAMP An affordable option based in South Luangwa offering walking and driving safariswwwwildlifecamp-zambiacom middot infowildelifezambiacom
ZAMAG TOURS AND SAFARIS Agriculturalfarm tours and safaris in Zambiawwwzamagsafariscom middot infozamagsafariscom
ZAMBIA TOURISM BOARD National tourism authority your gateway to the country diverse attractionswwwzambiatourismcom middot zntbzambiatourismorgzm
How to receiveHow to receiveHow to receiveHow to receive
wwwtravelzambiamagcomEmail zambiatravelafricamagcom
Travel Zambia is published by Travel Africa Ltdwwwtravelafricamagcom
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