The Chemistry of Haircolor - American Association of...

The Chemistry of HaircolorJohn Halal

Honors Beauty College9725 Crosspoint Commons

Indianapolis, IN 46256317.841.6085

john1@honorsbeautycollege.com

Penetration Occurs Between The Cuticle Scales

7/30/20148

“F-layer” Single layer of the methyl eicosanoic acid (18MEA)

Unique, branched fatty acid

Attached by covalently bound thio-ester bonds

18MEA combined with the epicuticle is the “F-layer”

The cuticle surface is hydrophobic due to the “F-layer”

Haircolor, shampoo, and styling removes the “F-layer”

“Resistant” Gray HairNot Resistant - Just White

The structure of non-pigmented hair is identical to that of pigmented hair except for the absence of melanin.

Non-pigmented hair is no more resistant than the pigmented hair on the same head. It’s just white.

“Gray” hair is more difficult to color only because it is white and needs more color.

Subtractive ColorReflects Available Light

What color is your hair if you turn out the lights?• Fluorescent Lights - Green• Tungsten Lights - Orange• Bright Daylight – White

• www.bulbs.com

The Electromagnetic Spectrum

Color Theory1) Level of Color

Concentration, Density, or SaturationHow Much Color?

White, Black, & GrayThe Same Color - Different LevelsPink is a Lighter Tint of Red

2) Shade or Hue of ColorBalance of Color, Tone or HueWhich Color?

10 Stages of Decolorizing

Lightening Natural Color Makes it Warmer Natural Hair Color

– 3 Parts Yellow– 2 Parts Red– 1 Part Blue

Blue Compliments Orange Violet Compliments Yellow Green Compliments Red

Oxidative & Non-oxidative Color

1) Non-oxidative– Temporary– Semi-Permanent

2) Oxidative– Demi-Permanent (Deposit Only)– Permanent (Lift & Deposit)– All Lighteners

“Coal Tar” Dyes Primary Intermediates – Provide Base Color

– Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)– Para-Toluenediamine (PTD)– Para-Aminophenol (PAP)

Couplers/Secondary Intermediates– Modify Color– Meta-Phenylenediamine– Meta-Aminophenol– resorcinols

Cosmetic Toiletries & Fragrance Act of 1938– Patch Test 48 hours prior to EACH application– Not for use on eyelashes or eyebrows

Alkaline Haircolor

1) Swells the hair to gain entry

2) Causes the decomposition of peroxide

3) Aids in developing the dye