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scientist's satchel
a sewing pattern by
2 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
scientist’s satchel
difficulty:
before you begin:
makes:
materials & tools• Matchingsewingthread• Basicsewingtools(sewingmachine,
scissors,iron,needles,pins,fabricmarker,seamripper)
• 1yd.of45”wideor2/3yd.of60”widemediumtoheavyweightfabricformainbag(denimorcanvaswouldbegreat–Iinterfacedfauxsuede)
• ¾yd.oflightweightfabricforlining(Iusedquiltingcotton)
• 1”turnlock• 12”zipper(atleast)• Eithervariousfabricpaintsfor
paintingyourimageOR:• Appliquésupplies:
• 10”x10”scrapofappliquéfabricforgears(cottonorfelt)
• 10”x10”pieceoflightorheavydutyfusibleweb
onebagthatisabout12”wide,8”tall,and4”deep
Theconceptsareprettysimpletogetthrough,thoughthedetailscantakeawhile.
Thisprojectisasteampunkinspiredmessengerbagwithaverticalzipperedpocketonthefrontflap.Italsofeaturespaintedgearmotifs,aturnlockclosure,andextratopstitchingforanold,weatheredeffect.
4. Markthefabricpieceswiththeguide-linesfromthepattern
1. Printouttheprojectpattern,pages11-19
2. Assembletheprintedpatternpieces3. Layoutthepatternpiecesonyour
fabricandcutthemout
3 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
FirstIappliedthegearmotiftothelowerleftflappiecefollowingthepattern
guideline.Iusuallylikedoingmyembellishmentsinappliqué,
butinthiscaseIoptedforpaintingitonsoIcouldusethiscopperfabricpaintIhave.
Tobeginconstructingthebagflap,startbylayeringyourzipperbetweenthe
lowerleftbagflappieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.
Lineupthezippertapewiththerawedgesandsewthethreelayerstogether.You’llseethattheseamallowancesare¼”heretoaccountforhowyou’reusingthezippertapeasyourseamallowance.Makesurethetopofyourzipperislinedupalongthetopcornerofthelowerleftbagflappiece(theonecatty-cornertothecurvedcorner).Thisissoyourzippersliderisatthetopofyourbagwhentheprojectiscomplete.Whenyoufinish,pressthefabricsawayfromthezipper.
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1
4
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
Fortheothersideofthezippertape,layerthezipperinbetweenthelowerrightbagflappieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.Repeatthesameproce-dureasinstep2,sewingthethreelayerstogether,thenpressthefabricawayfromthezipper.
Nowforthetopsectionoftheflap.Layerthewholeofyourbagflapsofarbetweenthebagflaptoppieceanditscorrespondingliningpiece.Makesureyoumovethezippersliderdownandoutoftheway,thenlineuptherawedgesalongthetopoftheflap.Sewtheselayerstogether,goingthroughthezipperverycarefullyandslowly.Pressthefabricawayfromthezipperasbefore.
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5 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
Nowtomakeafinishedpocket,we’readdingalining.Startbylayering
yourliningandflappiecesasfollows:oneflapliningpiece
(rightsideup),yourzipperedflappiece(rightsideup),thenlastlyyourfinalflapliningpiece(rightsidedown).
Lineupalltheedgesaroundtheperimeter.Sewaroundthisentireedgeexceptforthestraightedgealongthetop.Leavethisopenforturningtheflaprightsideoutwhenyoufinish.Trimoffanyexcesszipperteethfromboththebottomandtopwhenyou’redone.
Trimtheseamallowancesinthecornersoftheflap,thenturnitrightsideout.
Pokethecornerswithachopstickorsimilartooltoget
somedefinition,thenpresstheflapflat.Sinceyouhaveazipperintheflap,there’sagoodchanceitwon’tstayperfectlyflatduetothemetalorplasticteeth.SoItopstitchedaroundtheperimeteroftheflaptokeepeverythingflatandneat.Itookthisoppor-tunitytouseoneofmyspecialtystitchesthatlookslikeahand-sewnblanketstitch.Ithoughtitgaveamoreruggedlooktothebagoverall.
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scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
Ialsotooktheopportunitytotopstitchtheseamabovethezipperandtotherightofthezipper,bothforlooksandalsoisolatetheareathatthezipperopens,makingamorecompactpocket.Afterthis,yourflapiscomplete!
Nowontothebodyofthebag,whichisactuallymucheasier.Startbysewingthebottomseamsofthebagfrontandback.Dothisbyliningupthenotchededgesofthebagpiecesandsewingalongtheedge.
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7
7 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
tip:
Nowweaddthesidesofthebag.Thisisdonebylininguptheleftandrightrawedgesofthe
bagfrontandbackwiththecurvededgeofthebagsidepieces.
Startbyliningupthetopcornersandworkingyourwayaround.Thecenterseamshouldmatchupwiththenotchatthebottomofthebagsides.Continuelininguptheedgesalongtheothersideuntiltheothercornersmatch.
Sewtheseedgestogethertocompleteonesideofyourbag.Repeatthisfortheotheredgeandtheremainingbagsidepiecetocompletetheotherside.
Tocreatethelining,simplyrepeatsteps8&9withyourliningpieces,butremembertoleaveanopeningasthepatternindicatesforturningthebagrightsideoutlater.
Instep9,cliptheseamallowancesofthebagfrontandbackbyabout½”tohelpthebagbodycurvearoundthebottomofthebagsides.
Withthebodyofthebagdone,what’snextisthe
straps!Fromyourstrappiece,foldunder5/8”from
eachlongsideandironthefoldsflat.Thenfoldtheentirestrapinhalflengthwise.Sewthesefoldededgestogetherwithanedgestitch(ormoredecorativetopstitchingasI’vedone).
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scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
Nextweneedtobastethestrapstothemainbag.Takeonerawedgeofyourstrapandcenteritalongthesideofyourbagwithrightsidesfacingtogether.Basteitinplacewithintheseamallowances.Repeatthiswiththeotherendofyourstrapandtheothersideofyourbag,beingsurenottotwistthestrapalongtheway.
We’regoingtobastetheflaptothebaginthesamemanner.Takeyourflappieceandwithrightsidestogether,centerthetopedgealongthebacksideofyourbag.Basteitinplacewithintheseamallowances.
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9 sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
Thebagisalmostcomplete!Nowtoreallyseeitcometogetherwe’llneed
tosewthetopseam.Nestlethemainbagintothelining
withrightsidestogetherandlineupthetoprawedgeallthewayaround.Yourseamsshouldmatchupasyougo.Sewaroundtheentireperimeter,andnotethatyou’llbesewingthroughthestrapsandtheflapasyougettothem.
Turnthebagrightsideoutfromtheopeninginthelining,thenpressthetop
seamsoit’sniceandcrisp.Ididsomemoretopstitching
alongthatseamtoaddtothelookofthebag.Iwouldsuggestyoudoitaswellatleasttokeeptheliningfrompeekingoutofyourbag^-^Whenthatiscomplete,gobackinsidethebagandsewtheopeningintheliningclosedeitherwithahand-sewnladderstitchorwithyourmachine.
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scientist’s satchelsewing tutorial
sew desu ne?| www.cholyknight.com |
Lastlyweinstalltheturn-lockonthefrontofthebag.Installthetopoftheturnlockinthemiddleofthegearmotifontheflapasthepatternguidelineindicates.Thebottomoftheturnlockisalsoindicatedonthepatternforthebagfront,butfolddownyourflapandchecktomakesuretheylineupinawaythatyoulike.Whenyou’resurethatyouhavetheplacementright,theninstallthebottomoftheturnlockonthebagfront.Nowgoonsomescienceyadventure,becauseYOU’REDONE!
15
Scie
ntist
’s Sa
tche
lP
AT
TE
RN
www.cho
lykn
ight
.com
BAG F
LAP L
ININ
GCut
1 o
f lin
ing
fabric
5/8”
sea
m a
llow
ance
Pg. 1/9
Pg. 4/9
A1 A2
B1B2
Scientist’s SatchelP
AT
TE
RN
www.cho
lyknight.com
BAG F
LAP T
OP
Cut 1 of m
ain fab
ricCut 1 of lin
ing fab
ric5/8” seam
allowan
ce
Pg. 1/9 Pg. 2/9
Pg. 4/9 Pg. 5/9
A1 A2
B3B4
A3 A4
Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BAG SIDESCut 2 of main fabricCut 2 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance
Scientist’s SatchelP
AT
TE
RN
www.cho
lyknight.com
BAG F
LAP T
OP
Cut 1 of m
ain fab
ricCut 1 of lin
ing fab
ric5/8” seam
allowan
ce
Pg. 2/9 Pg. 3/9
Pg. 5/9 Pg. 6/9
B5B6
A3 A4
Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BAG FLAP LOWER LEFTCut 1 of main fabricCut 1 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance
Pg. 4/9
Pg. 7/9
B1B2
D1D
2
C1 C2
gear applique/paint placement
Pg. 4/9 Pg. 5/9
Pg. 7/9 Pg. 8/9
B3B4
D3
D4
C1 C2C3 C4
Scie
ntist
’s Sa
tche
lP
AT
TE
RN
www.cho
lykn
ight
.com
BAG F
RO
NT &
BACK
Cut
2 o
f m
ain fab
ricCut
2 o
f lin
ing
fabric
5/8”
sea
m a
llow
ance
Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BAG SIDESCut 2 of main fabricCut 2 of lining fabric5/8” seam allowance
Pg. 5/9 Pg. 6/9
Pg. 8/9 Pg. 9/9
B5B6
D5D
6
C3 C4
turn
lock
place
men
t
open
ing
for tu
rnin
g (linin
g on
ly)
Pg. 7/9
D1D
2
E1 E2
Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
BAG FLAP - LOWER RIGHTCut 2 from main fabric
Cut 2 from lining5/8” seam allowance
turn lock placement
Scientist’s SatchelP A T T E R N
www.cholyknight.com
STRAPCut 1 on fold of main fabric
5/8” seam allowance
Pg. 7/9 Pg. 8/9
D3
D4
E1 E2E3 E4
BAG FLAP - LOWER RIGHTCut 2 from main fabric
Cut 2 from lining5/8” seam allowance
Pg. 8/9 Pg. 9/9
D5D
6
E3 E4Cu
t on f
old
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