Performance Characterization of Natural...

F L O R A T E C H T I F F A N Y O L I P H A N T , M S

M A R C H 2 0 , 2 0 1 7

Performance Characterization of Natural Ingredients Compared to

Silicone and Quaternium Compounds in Hair Care

Applications

Outline

Introduction Functions of silicones and quats, how they work, and formulation

issues

Possible replacements for silicones and quats Comparative studies Floraesters K-100® Jojoba / Floraesters K-20W® Jojoba versus quats Floramac® 10 versus silicones

Conclusions

Functions of Conditioning Agents

Enhance mildness (of shampoo formulations) Provide ease of wet combing / provide lubricity Increase hair softness Increase hair shine Make hair more manageable Prevent buildup of static electricity Leave hair silky and smooth / lay down cuticles Protection against thermal and mechanical damage Hair dye color protection

How Conditioning Agents Work

Deposition Coating the porous, hydrophilic damaged hair Adsorb hydrophilic head down, hydrophobic tail up Confer hydrophobicity to hair Durability during several wash cycles

Commonly Used Quat Conditioning Agents

Cationic Surfactants and Polymers Cetrimonium Chloride Quaternium-80 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Polyquaternium compounds Silicone quaternium compounds

Commonly Used Silicone Conditioning Agents

Cyclopentasiloxane Phenyl Trimethicone Dimethicone (various viscosities) Amodimethicone Fluids Silicone Polyethers

Issues with Cationic Conditioning Agents

Silicones De-foamers Silicones are incompatible with typical ingredients used in

shampoos Large amounts of silicones are necessary in rinse-out products

to ensure deposition Particularly reduced deposition profile in dyed hair

Silicone droplet size makes clear formulations difficult Silicones are undesirable by consumers

Issues with Cationic Conditioning Agents

Quats Allergens Phenolic quats are considered endocrine disrupters

Both Must be formulated in such a way to induce phase separation

during rinsing so it doesn’t wash off (particularly in shampoos) Build up on hair Negative connotation by consumers as not natural Toxicity to aquatic life

Products That Use Conditioning Agents

Shampoos 2-in-1 shampoos

Conditioners Leave-on and rinse-out

Hair Serums Hair Masks Hair Styling Products Shine Sprays

Emollients Emollient Derivatives

Jojoba Oil Macadamia Oil Sunflower Oil Olive Oil Isododecane Isononyl Isononanoate Coco Caprylate South Pacific Monoi Oil Pentaclethra Macroloba

Seed Oil

Floraesters K-100 Jojoba Floraesters K-20W Jojoba Floramac 10 Derivatives of Sunflower

Oil Derivatives of Olive Oil Hydrogenated Methyl

Abietate

Possible Replacements For Quats & Silicones

Derived from Jojoba Oil Naturally-derived

(Ecocert / COSMOS certified)

Film forming / water resistant

High oxidative stability Oil-free / preservative-

Non-greasy feel Low odor & color Renewable resource TGA approved EU & China REACh

compliant Low usage levels

Floraesters K-100 / K-20W Jojoba

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters: The Chemistry

O-K+ HO

KOH + H2O

Potassium Jojobate Jojoba Alcohols Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

[Floraesters K-20W Jojoba]: 20% Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters + 80% Water (Aqua) [Floraesters K-100 Jojoba]: 80% Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters + 10% Jojoba Esters + 10% Water (Aqua)

Jojoba Oil

*All of the above structures are trans-free.

Hair Care Study Details

Blind Vehicle-controlled Controlled environmental conditions

Deposition of Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters

Objective: Evaluate Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters at 1% in water for its

potential to remain deposited on hair after rinse-out Methodology: Extraction and HPLC analysis for Hydrolyzed Jojoba

Esters after application and rinse of 1% solution N = 3 tresses

Results: 4.7% ± 2.7% (~30% of Floraesters K-20W Jojoba)

of the Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters applied to hair tresses remained on the hair after rinse-out

Hair Care Study: Comb Force

Objective: Evaluate shampoos and conditioners with and without

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, respectively, for their potential to reduce wet comb force alone, compared to, and in conjunction with quats

Methodology: Comb force evaluations [via Test Resources Q Series

(100Q) Universal Testing Machine] were conducted before and after treatment with a shampoo or rinse-out conditioner

N = 8 tresses per product

Formula 1: Natural Shampoo & Conditioner

Vehicle Shampoo (%wt/wt): Water (q.s.), Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (12.0%), Decyl Glucoside (8.0%), Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (8.0%), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (8.0%), Acrylates Copolymer (3.0%), Methyl Glucose Caprate / Caprylate / Oleate (and) Propanediol (2.0%), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (2.0%), Glycol Distearate (1.5%), Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Hexylene Glycol (0.8%), Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (0.7%), Fragrance (0.7%), Aminomethyl Propanol (0.4%), and Disodium EDTA (0.1%).

Vehicle Conditioner (%wt/wt): Water (q.s.), Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

(and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (6.0%), Cetyl Alcohol (2.0%), Propanediol (1.0%), Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate (1.0%), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT (1.0%), Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (and) Tocopherol (1.0%), Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (1.0%), Ethyl Macadamiate (1.0%), Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin (and) Hexylene Glycol (0.8%), Fragrance (0.5%), Tocopheryl Acetate (0.5%), Hydroxyethylcellulose (0.1%), and Disodium EDTA (0.1%).

Reduced Comb Force: Shampoo

Conclusion: 2.5% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba produced statistically significant decreases in comb force (p<0.05) from baseline, and directionally significant decreases in comb force (p<0.10) over the vehicle shampoo.

Wet Comb Force

B - vehicle shampooA - vehicle shampoo + 2.5% FloraestersK-20W Jojoba

Reduced Comb Force: Rinse-Out Conditioner

Conclusion: 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba produced statistically significant decreases in comb force (p<0.05) compared to the vehicle conditioner and baseline.

Wet Comb Force

B - vehicle conditionerA - vehicle conditioner+ 1% FloraestersK-100 Jojoba

Formula 2: Traditional

Vehicle Conditioner (%wt/wt): Water (q.s.), Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (4.0%), Cetyl Alcohol (3.0%), Propanediol (1.0%), Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate (1.0%), Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (and) BHT (1.0%), Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters (1.0%), Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil (1.0%), Ethyl Macadamiate (1.0%), Phenoxyethanol (and) Decylene Glycol (and) Propylene Glycol (0.8%), Fragrance (0.5%), Tocopheryl Acetate (0.5%), Niacinamide (0.3%) Hydroxyethylcellulose (0.1%), Disodium EDTA (0.1%), Pyridoxine Hydrochloride (0.1%), and Citric Acid (0.1%).

Conclusion: 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba and 1% Cetrimonium Chloride both produced statistically significant decreases in comb force (p<0.05) compared to the vehicle conditioner, the conditioner containing Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, and baseline. 0%

Wet Comb Force

D - vehicle + 1% Cetrimonium ChlorideC - vehicle + 1% Quaternium-80B - vehicle + 1% Hydrolyzed Wheat ProteinA - vehicle

E - vehicle + 1% FloraestersK-100 Jojoba

Conclusion: The addition of 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba produced statistically significant decreases in comb force (p<0.05) compared to each respective vehicle conditioner with quats and baseline.

Wet Comb Force

E - vehicle + 1% Quaternium-80 + 1% FloraestersK-100 JojobaD - vehicle + 1% Quaternium-80C - vehicle + 1% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein + 1% FloraestersK-100 JojobaB - vehicle + 1% Hydrolyzed Wheat ProteinA - vehicle

G - vehicle + 1% Cetrimonium Chloride + 1% FloraestersK-100 JojobaF - vehicle + 1% Cetrimonium Chloride

Hair Care Study: Frizz

Objective: Evaluate conditioners with and without Floraesters K-100

Jojoba for their potential to reduce frizz

Methodology: Frizz was analyzed before and after exposure to high

humidity (>70%) 1 product application / rinse N = 3 tresses per product

Conclusion: 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba produced 30% less frizz when compared to the vehicle conditioner.

vehicle conditioner

vehicle conditioner + 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba

Reduced Hair Frizz: Rinse-Out Conditioner

Hair Care Study: Heat Protection

Objective: Evaluate conditioners with and without Floraesters K-100

Jojoba for their potential to provide heat protection and reduce hair breakage

Methodology: Hair breakage was analyzed before and after exposure to high

heat + reversion (100 passes with a flat iron at 450°F + 4 hours at >75% humidity)

1 product application / rinse N = 9 tresses per product

Increased Heat Protection: Rinse-Out Conditioner

Breakage

Mean ± SE

Mean ± SD

Conclusion: 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba produced 38% fewer broken hair fibers after heat exposure when compared to the vehicle conditioner.

**Indicates statistical significance (p<0.05) between test articles. *Indicates statistical significance (p<0.05) between test article and control.

vehicleconditioner

vehicleconditioner+ 1%K-100

heat+ reversion

Hair Care Study: Color Protection

Objective: Evaluate shampoos and conditioners with and without

Floraesters K-20W Jojoba and Floraesters K-100 Jojoba, respectively, for their potential to provide color protection

Methodology: Wool swatches were dyed with commercial red or brown

permanent hair dyes N = 3 wool swatches per product Color (ΔE, Colorimeter) was analyzed initially and every 2

treatments + rinses with the products

Color Protection: Shampoo

Conclusion: 2.5% Floraesters K-20W Jojoba retained up to 35% more color when compared to the vehicle shampoo.

Color Retention

*Indicates statistical significance (p<0.05) between test articles.

8642# of wash / rinse treatment cycles

D - vehicle shampoo + 2.5% K-20W (brown)C - vehicle shampoo (brown)

B - vehicle shampoo + 2.5% K-20W (red)

A - vehicle shampoo (red)

Color Protection: Rinse-Out Conditioner

Conclusion: 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba retained up to 22% more color when compared to the vehicle conditioner.

Color Retention

*Indicates statistical significance (p<0.05) between test articles.

8642# of wash / rinse treatment cycles

D - vehicle conditioner + 1% K-100 (brown)C - vehicle conditioner (brown)

B - vehicle conditioner + 1% K-100 (red)

A - vehicle conditioner (red)

Hair Care Study: Consumer Preference

Objective: Determine the consumer perception of Floraesters K-100 Jojoba

in a conditioner

Methodology: N = 29 healthy female participants 1 application of each product to (N=3) hair tresses used for

consumer evaluation Consumer Preference Survey

Improved Consumer Preference: Rinse-Out Conditioner

Consumer Preference

Statistical (**) and directional (*) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05 and p<0.1, respectively).

Conclusion: Consumers preferred hair tresses treated with a conditioner containing 1% Floraesters K-100 Jojoba compared to hair tresses treated with the vehicle conditioner.

100%Hair Moisturization*

Hair Smoothness / Sleekness *

Hair Volume*

Hair Softness(Visual)*

Hair Softness (Feel)* Hair Shine*

Healthy Appearance of Hair*

FrizzManagement*

Non-Greasy to Touch

Pleasant to Touch*

Overall Product Performance*

vehicle conditionervehicle conditioner + 1%K-100

High oxidative stability Oil-free / preservative-

free Non-volatile silicone

alternative Non-greasy feel Derived from

macadamia oil

Low odor & color Renewable resource TGA approved EU & China REACh

compliant

Floramac 10 (INCI: Ethyl Macadamiate)

Formula 3: Leave-In Hair Serum

Vehicle Hair Serum (%wt/wt): Test Emollient (q.s.), Glyceryl Tribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate (10.0%), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (2.7%), and Phenoxyethanol (0.6%).

Hair Care Study: Comb Force

Objective: Evaluate leave-in hair serums with and without

Floramac 10 for their potential to reduce wet and dry comb force compared to silicones

Methodology: Comb force evaluations [via Test Resources Q Series

(100Q) Universal Testing Machine] were conducted before and after treatment with a leave-in hair serum

Reduced Comb Force: Leave-In Hair Serum

Conclusion: The inclusion of Floramac 10 resulted in statistically significant (p<0.05) decreases in wet comb force compared to Phenyl Trimethicone; and statistically significant (p<0.05) decreases in dry comb force compared to Phenyl Trimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane.

*All products resulted in statistically significant (p<0.05) changes in wet and dry comb force from baseline.

DryComb Force

WetComb Force

Comb Force

C - Phenyl TrimethiconeB - CyclopentasiloxaneA - Floramac 10

Hair Care Study: Shine

Objective: Evaluate leave-in hair serums with and without

Floramac 10 for their potential to increase shine compared to silicones

Methodology: Shine measurements (via Glossymeter) were conducted

on dry hair before and after treatment with a leave-in hair serum with and without heat

Increased Shine: Leave-In Hair Serum

Conclusion: The inclusion of Floramac 10 and Phenyl Trimethicone resulted in statistically significant (p<0.05) increases in hair shine compared to Cyclopentasiloxane without heat. Floramac 10 resulted in statistically significant (p<0.05) increases in hair shine compared to Phenyl Trimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane.

With Heat

No Heat

air) A

Hair Shine

Hair Care Study: Breakage

Objective: Evaluate leave-in hair serums with and without Floramac

10 for their potential to reduce hair breakage compared to silicones

Methodology: Broken fibers counted after controlled, repeat combing

(1000 comb strokes) N = 6 tresses per product

Reduced Hair Breakage: Leave-In Hair Serum

Conclusion: The inclusion of Floramac 10 resulted in statistically significant (p<0.05) fewer broken hair fibers compared to Phenyl Trimethicone.

Hair Breakage

Hair Care Study: Consumer Preference

Objective: Determine the consumer perception of Floramac 10 in a leave-

in hair serum compared to Phenyl Trimethicone

Methodology: N = 24 healthy female participants Split head study Every other day use for 1 week Consumer Preference Survey

Improved Consumer Preference: Leave-In Hair Serum

Consumer Preference

Statistical (**) and directional (*) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05 and p<0.1, respectively).

Conclusion: Consumers preferred a leave-in hair serum containing Floramac 10 compared to a leave-in hair serum containing Phenyl Trimethicone.

Ease of Combing*

Hair Strength*

Softness*

Shine**

Healthy Looking**

Smoothness**

Overall Product Performance

Phenyl TrimethiconeFloramac 10

Conclusions

Floraesters K-20W/K-100 Jojoba and Floramac 10 have beneficial effects within multiple hair care applications, including: Comb force reductions Frizz reductions Heat protection Breakage reductions Increases in hair shine Increase in consumer preference

Floraesters K-20W/K-100 Jojoba and Floramac 10 offer an effective alternative to quats and silicones in hair care

References

Colorimeter CL 400 and Glossymeter GL 200 are products of Courage+Khazaka (Köln, Germany).

Test Resources Q Series (100Q) Universal Testing Machine is a product of TestResources, Inc. (Shakopee, MN).

ΔE = √ [(L*2-L*1)2 +(a*2-a*1) 2 +(b*2-b*1) 2] Evans T and Wickett RR, eds. Practical Modern Hair Science.

Carol Stream, IL: Allured Business Media. 2012. Print. Johnson B, Murphy K, and Lin F, Silicones continue to shape

the hair care industry. Personal Care. November 2015; 29-31. http://chemicaloftheday.squarespace.com/most-

controversial/2011/8/31/quaternary-ammonium-compounds.html

Thanks!

Performance Characterization of Natural...

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