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My works in Glam May 2014 bridal, monique lhuillier, fashion, dresses, summer, weddings, wilfredo rosado, styling, ns by noof, bahrain, qatar.
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EDITOR SINDHU NAIR
CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT DEBRINA ALIYAH
SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS
EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI
AYSWARYA MURTHY
PHOTOGRAPHER ROB ALTAMIRANO
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR VENKAT REDDY
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR HANAN ABU SIAM
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR AYUSH INDRAJITH
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER MAHESHWAR REDDY B
SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING FREDRICK ALPHONSO
ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING THOMAS JOSE
SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS HASAN REKKAB
LYDIA YOUSSEF
MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE KANWAL BALUCH
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT PRATAP CHANDRAN
SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA
DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA
BHIMAL RAI
BASANTHA.P
PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH
CHIEF EXECUTIVE SANDEEP SEHGAL
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT ALPANA ROY
VICE PRESIDENT RAVI RAMAN
GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL.THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE
REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT
ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION.
CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATARCALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982
GLAMSOCIAL MEDIA
Angeline Jolie stars as the Mistress of Evil, the villain from the Sleeping Beauty fairy tale, in
the new blockbuster Maleficient which retells the back story of the popular Disney narrative.
Playing the titular villain character, Jolie has an impressive witch-inspired wardrobe that comes complete with her own headgear in
the shape of horns. Go online to our Facebook page for more exclusive imagery of
the dresses that she wore in the movie.www.facebook.com/glamqatar
COMING UP
EVENTS OF THE MONTHCommunity Supported Art Exhibition 2014
From May 7th Katara Art Center
The annual Community Supported Art project, run by the Katara Art Center, provides both
emerging and established Qatar-based artists a platform to present their artwork. The project
is implemented in a format allowing artists direct access to potential collectors and a
wider audience Inspired by similar projects in the United States, community supported
initiatives have appeared as a way to connect cultural producers with their audience through a tested market concept that encourages face to face connections and community building.
All selected artworks will be reproduced as limited edition prints, to be sold during CSAs exhibition and live auction priced at QR2500
each (70% of which goes to the artist).
June marks our Health and Beauty special issue! The sun is shining bright and its time to get active, because as the saying goes,
beauty starts from within. We will be featuring the latest in sportswear inspired
designer collections as well as the latest hair and makeup trends for Summer 2014. Photo:
Backstage at Tods SS14 presentation.
SPLURGE1 Full Length Jacket, QR4,638, Moschino
Cheap and Chic, The Gate. 2 Naples Short, QR3,350, Diane Von
Furstenberg, Salam Studios & Stores. 3 Ruched High-Rise Bikini Briefs, QR1,058,
Norma Kamali Bill, Net A Porter.4 Halterneck Bikini Top, QR1,058, Norma
Kamali Bill, Net A Porter.5 Scout One-Shoulder Textured Swimsuit,
QR1,814, Zimmerman, Net A Porter.6 White Lace Pants, QR6,586, Givenchy,
The Gate.
SAVE
VSSPLURGE
5
30
SAVE1 Cut Out Swimsuit, QR 100. 2 Tube CrossOver Bikini Top,
QR50. 3 Strappy Bikini Bottom,
QR40.4 Gold Textured Shorts,
QR200.5 Lace Coat, QR 750.6 Casual Laser Cut Trousers,
QR250 Available from H&M at
Villaggio Mall.
Delicate lace and floral cut-outs make a luxurious appearance among this seasons summer trends, taking
resort wear towards a more subdued and feminine direction. Give the conventional kaftans and string
bikinis a break and indulge in intricate laser-cut motifs on cover-up coats that will take you from the beachside
to the beach club. Off-kilter one-piece swimwear exudes an allure of confidence and subtle sexiness while bikinis get a Mad Men- inspired update with bandeau tops and high-waisted bottoms. The ever-
trusty pair of casual white trousers makes the perfect finishing touch for a sophisticated look worthy of a
Mediterranean coastal getaway.
BEACHSIDECHARM
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AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
OTT
Dubai-based brand OTT has got us all in a spin with their out-of-this-world
prints that will most definitely make you look twice. A mesh of kitsch with quality
tailoring, there are glitters, sequins, and embroideries along with the crazy
prints that makes up the collection. OTT originally started out as a classic
kaftan line, but has now revamped itself into a brand that takes quirkiness
and eccentricity in fashion as their main inspirations. After their stellar
showing in Paris in 2008, the brand has since been picked up by many retailers around the globe, and has amassed a
cult following with the fashion crowd. The Elizabeth Taylor skirt is currently
the hottest item from the brands recent collection and is available from QR2,500
at www.byott.com
LOEWE ESPADRILLES
Just in time for summer, Loewe has released a colourful and fun collection
of espadrilles that continues the brands initiative to explore the origin and spirit of its creations. Part of the Best Hands
of Spain project where Loewe works with Spains greatest craftsmen, the
espadrilles project is a collaborative effort with Castaner, a shoe brand founded in 1774 that specialises in rope soles. The
craftsmen of Castaner still continue work by the shores of the Banyoles Lake
in Catalonia, the original location of the craft. The Loewe Espadrille will be available in eight different shades for
women and four for men, with the upper in a choice of napa, ostrich or Loewes
signature Oro suede.
34 \ TRENDS
DAR AL DAZAH
The intricate details on the evening and bridal dresses by Dar Al Dazah is a testament to the dedication and passion of the labels designer Maha Al Mannai to making your wedding day a truly spectacular experience. The Qatari label has been making abayas
for close to a decade specialising in luxurious pieces apt for special occasions and henna nights before venturing into bridal wear two years ago. Maha has loved sewing since she
was a young girl and is a self-taught designer who now runs the atelier of about fifteen craftsmen providing custom service to clients. This season, her bridal collection is
inspired by the feminine form and finished with the labels signature detailing work with Swarovski crystals. There are two distinct dresses, one for the bride who pays attention
to the little things in life and the other for the confident bride who wants a simple silhouette, Maha explains. The piece de resistance in her atelier at the moment is the Cinderella abaya, designed for the modern-day Cinderella and features a double bow at the back that stretches into a long train. Dar Al Dazahs collection is featured in our
editorial this month. The atelier is located in Al Waab.
FAR FETCH X MUUSE
Far Fetch is the absolute online haunt for limited edition, vintage and superbly
cool fashion finds so it was no surprise when they announced an online pop-up initiative with another uber-cool online
retailer Muuse. Muuse, which is based in Copenhagen, has talent-spotted some of the most popular names in the industry, picking them from fashion schools and
selling their debut collections. This collaboration features five designers;
Sara Lundberg from the Swedish School of Textiles, Ece Gozen from Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University Turkey, Jantine Van
Peski from Antwerp Royal Academy, Sasha Nassar from Instituto Marangoni
Paris, and Eun Jung Lee from Esmod Berlin. The collections are now on sale
exclusively on www.farfetch.com
LIBERATTI SCARF RINGS
We could not help but remember the scouting uniform back in school
where they wore scarves held together by rings when we came
upon Liberatti. The online portal is dedicated to the art of scarf rings, carrying a selection of their own
hand made pieces as well as vintage rings from brands like Hermes and Fendi. Liberattis handmade pieces
come in gold, silver, leather and buffalo horn and they also take
custom orders for that perfect piece to match your scarves. The site is
like an encyclopedia for everything scarf ring related including tutorial
videos on how to mix and match the scarves with your outfits. www.
scarfring.com
TRENDS / 39
SPRING INTO THE SEASON OF LOVE WITH THE ULTIMATE BRIDAL DRESS. CELEBRATING
ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT STYLE MOMENTS OF YOUR LIFE,
WE HAVE GOT YOU COVERED FROM THE MILE-LONG VEIL
TRAIN TO THE PERFECT PAIR OF WHITE STILETTOS THAT WILL
TAKE YOU FROM THE AISLE TO THE DANCE FLOOR.
Dress: Oscar de la RentaShoes: Christian Louboutin Earrings: Sophie Bille BraheBracelet: Inez and Vinoodh
Ring: Illeana MakriPhotograph by James Meakin for Net A Porter
40 \ TRENDS
Rani Zakhem Bridal 2014
Sandra Mansor Bridal
Lace Embroidered Gown, QR44,500, Roland Mouret, Net A Porter
Matelasse Silk-blend Gown, QR15,815, Sophia Kokosalaki,Net A Porter
Flower Motif Jewellery Set, Mouawad, Lagoona Mall
Lace Blouse, QR7,013, Balmain, FarFetch
SOFT SILHOUETTES WITH OFF-WHITE TONES FOR THE ROMANCE-INSPIRED BRIDE.
MYFAIR LADY
40 \ TRENDS
42 \ TRENDS
Ballroom Dancing Headband, Erickson Beamon, QR5,389, Net A Porter
Swarovski Crystal Headband, Jennifer Behr, Net A Porter
Lily Embellished Clutch, Marchesa, QR12,000, Net A Porter
Lace Skirt, QR5,676, Valentino Garavani, FarFetch
Crystal Brooch Sterling Jacket, QR29,074, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Full Sleeve Gown, Antonio Berardi,Net A Porter
Draped Silver Silk Embellished Tilly Gown, QR9,807, Catherine Deane, StyleBop
Lanvin Blanche 2014
Carolina Herrera Bridal 2014
44 \ TRENDS
SHORT HEMLINES FOR THE BRIDE WHO SHOWS OFF HER STATEMENT SHOE.
SHORTENGAGEMENT
Shift Dress with Lace Detail, QR5,079, Altuzarra, FarFetch
Cut Out Boot Heel, QR4,864, Charlotte Olympia, FarFetch
Lace-Up Pumps, Christina Louboutin, Villaggio Mall
44 \ TRENDS
Crepe Cocktail Dress with Feather Trim, QR14,118, Marchesa, StyleBop
Net Headpiece, QR921, Gigi Burris Millinery, FarFetch
Embroidered Flare Dress, QR14,925, Giambattista Valli, FarFetch
Natale Palladium-plated Necklace, QR6,663, Dolce & Gabbana,Net A Porter
Liane Veil, QR1,416, Maison Michel, FarFetch
Bow-embellished Duchesse Satin dress, QR21,647, Lanvin,Net A Porter
46 \ TRENDS
Lanvin Blanche 2014
48 \ TRENDS Rose Gold Diamond Hope Ring, QR 13,552, Charles Goode, Liberty UK
Fine Lace Pumps, Christian Louboutin, Villaggio Mall
14kt Gold Croissant de Perle Earring, QR7,347, Sophie Bille Brahe, StyleBop
Silk Gown with Embellished Collar, QR4,770, Issa, StyleBop
Silk Georgette Gown, QR9,275, Vionnet, StyleBop
Basic White Heels, QR2,130, Giuseppe Zanotti, FarFetch
Tabata Strapless Cady Gown, QR15,475, Calvin Klein Collection, Net A Porter
THE NO-FUSS MINIMALIST BRIDE THAT SHINES ON HER OWN.
VISIONIN WHITE
Layered Top Gown, QR6,153, Adam Lippes, FarFetch
A DRESS TOREMEMBER
DRAMATIC ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME GOWNSFOR THE FAIRY TALE BRIDES.
Patricia Bonaldi SS2014
Ralph & Russo Couture 2014
Rani Zakhem Bridal 2014
Pearl Embellished Silk Blend Tulle Veil, QR6,390, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Nocturne Hair Ornament, Van Cleef Arpels, Villaggio Mall
50 \ TRENDS
Silk Blend Gown with Beaded Overlay, QR24,773, Zuhair Murad, StyleBop
Embellished Silk Strapless Fishtail Gown, QR47,632, Marchesa, StyleBop
Ruffled crepe gown, QR21,282, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Strapless Faille Gown, QR30,513, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Cygne Ring, Dior Fine Jewellery, Villaggio Mall
Gold Embellished Gown, Patricia Bonaldi, HarrodsStone Embellished
Column Gown, QR42,525, Kaufman Franco, Net A Porter
52 \ TRENDS
CLEAN LINES
SHARP TAILORING FOR THE BRIDE WHO WANTS
A DIFFERENT TWIST.
Ralph & Russo Couture 2014
Isabella Necklace in Platinum and Diamonds, Van Cleef Arpels, Villaggio Mall
Pique Blazer, QR7,173, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Embellished Slippers, QR2,840, Alexander McQueen, FarFetch
Pique Tapered Pants, QR4,642, Lanvin, Net A Porter
Chain Detail Pumps, QR3,496, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, FarFetch
Princess Pumps, Christian Louboutin, Villaggio Mall
TRENDS / 53
54 \ FASHION
CHIC SOLUTIONS FOR BOTH BALLROOM AND DESTINATION WEDDINGS. ACE THE BEST DRESSED GUEST AWARD AND MAKE IT WORTHY OF THE PHOTO ALBUMS.Dress: Mary KatrantzouBag: Proenza SchoulerEarrings: Jennifer Meyer Ring: Anita KoPhotograph by James Meakin for Net A Porter
RPONDEZ, SIL VOUS PLAIT
54 \ TRENDS
TRENDS / 55
Nina Ricci SS2014
Floral Sleeve Column Gown, QR7,817, Matthew Williamson, The Gate.
Graffiti Daisy Shift Dress, QR3,591, Matthew Williamson, The Gate.
Graffiti Daisy Oversized Tshirt Gown, QR5,402, Matthew Williamson, The Gate.
Beaded Lace Cocktail Dress, QR18,428, Zuhair Murad, StyleBop
Silk Organza Embroidered Dress, QR3,027, Red Valentino, StyleBop
THEWEDDING
PARTY
56 \ TRENDSRamie-Silk Blend Cocktail Dress, QR3,075, Dsquared2, StyleBop
Tribal Raffia Necklace, QR3,924, Matthew Williamson,The Gate.
Metallic Leather Sandals, QR2,688, Vionnet, StyleBop
Suede Artemis Peep-Toes, QR2,736, Paul Andrew, StyleBop
Laser-Cut Leather Peep-Toes, QR2,494, Sergio Rossi, Porto Arabia.
Silk Chiffon One Shoulder Draped Cocktail Dress, QR18,912, Marchesa, StyleBop
18kt Yellow Gold Star Earrings with White Diamonds, QR32,812, Nikos Koulis, StyleBop
Silk Strapless Dress with Tiered Tulle Skirt, QR3,705, Red Valentino, StyleBop
Mina Clutch, Christian Louboutin, Villaggio Mall
AMONG THE SOCIETY CIRCLES OF DUBAI, ARUSHI COUTURE IS THE NAME THAT ALWAYS POPS UP WHEN WEDDINGS AND ENGAGEMENTS ARE ON
THE CARDS. THE LABEL HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE DESERT CITY FOR MORE THAN THIRTY YEARS, GROWING TOGETHER WITH DUBAI AS THE CITY NOW BECOMES ONE OF THE MOST FASHIONABLE CITIES IN THE WORLD.
FRENCH DESIGNER MIREILLE ALOUGHLIN WAS AT A TURNING POINT IN HER CAREER IN THE 1970S WHEN SHE DECIDED THAT DUBAI WOULD BE A NEW EXCITING TERRITORY TO EXPLORE. PICKING THE NAME ARUSHI, SHE
WANTED TO EVOKE THE WORDS ANCIENT PERSIAN MEANING OF SUNRISE, TO EXUDE A MAGICAL COMBINATION OF TALENT, PASSION AND LOVE.
THE FIRST LIGHT OF SUNSHINE
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
60 \
THE SPRING SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION
GRACEA princess-style gown featuring a bustier bodice in Chantilly lace with a cross-stitched and embroidered Swiss tulle hem.
FAN FARESilk organza tulip wedding dress featuring appliqu tulle on the bustier bodice and expands through a dramatic hip line.
ethereal design vision combined with the technical expertise of her atelier has created many happily-ever-after gowns for brides in the region. It is an intimate and detailed process from the start, with Mireilles focus discussing with clients their wants and guiding them through each step from fabrics to embellishments. We listen to our clients and work with them closely so we can capture the exact look that she is expecting, Mireille says. Brides in the Middle East have a strong preference for tulle and lace which exudes looks that are light, dreamy and romantic, a strong hold area for Arushi Coutures ateliers.
And this year, key trends include subtle details with beautiful and classic cuts as the base for an elegant gown. Embellishments are also toned down, the new philosophy is less is more, she explains.
What is it about the Middle East region that captured your love and made you decide to set up here and work with women from this region? Thirty years ago, Dubai was not as widely known as it is today. The only people who I met and could discuss about the idea of entrepreneurship were Emiratis themselves, and to me it was an opportunity. I had not
Mireilles
FOCUS / 61
62 \ FOCUS
GIGILayers of sparkly tulle refined with flower appliqus, this gown features a dramatic long train.
BELLA RIVA Blue silk duchess gown with a exaggerated peplum and layered appliqu tulle over a pleated skirt.
TIFFANYCut in embossed organza, the waist is embellished with tiny Swarovski crystals emphasising the rounded shape over the hips.
62 \
FOCUS / 63
really study the cultural implications of this move but I was ready to embrace something new. I came to Dubai with an open mind and fresh perspectives that my design and style would work in the region.
What is the most important advice that you would give to brides who are finding it difficult in choosing THE dress? Choosing THE dress can be difficult and overwhelming. It is best to take a close friend or relative to accompany you in all your research and fittings. Visit the bridal shop and try on as many shapes as you can in order to determine the one that suits you the best. Collect cuttings and ideas from magazines or the Internet. Show everything to the designer in order to create the perfect mood board.
Tell us about your atelier, and its specialized work in embroidery. Arushis embroidery atelier has been our pride and a centre for creative development for decades now. Its strength and reputation have been founded by the support of textile designers bringing constant
innovative resourceful ideas to any challenges presented to them. The team is experienced and is able to work closely with the technicians who cut and prepare each garment which ensures the best finish for each creation.
Arushi is famed for the special Henna dresses, unique to this region. What are some of the key aesthetics to these dresses? Henna dresses have been Arushis specialty and a garment created by the house for decades. Our first brief was a thobe, a T-shape garment heavily embroidered on the front with embroidered pants, and over the years, this has developed and become one of our signature pieces. We started researching how we could make the concept of this garment evolve. It has empowered the team to look at and study combinations of colours, suitable fabrics, history, different cultures, and traditional techniques of embroidery. It has a definite formal aspect of the costume although these days I encourage my team to make them more casual to appeal to the new generation of brides.
VOGUEOur favourite piece from the collection, the Vogue gown features a French cotton lace bustier with a rounded embellished bottom.
FOCUS / 65
An intimate garden do in a knee-length cocktail number, an afternoon affair in a light dreamy piece, a dancing party in flouncy hems, and of course a ballroom fiesta in a cascading lace gown. The new range of pieces is reflective of the increasingly diverse ideas and notions of what a wedding should be and what a bride should look like, something that Monique knows all too well. The
designer, whose womenswear collection is an echo of femininity and grace, is one of the most successful contemporary bridal designers whose brand
now includes lifestyle services to complete the Monique Lhuillier wedding experience. Fresh from her recent visit to Qatar, we chat to the designer about
choosing the ultimate dress for your big day.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
MONIQUE LHUILLIER:
THEFAIRYDESIGNER
THE MONIQUE LHUILLIER BRIDE THIS SPRING IS THE EMBODIMENT OF A FAIRY TALE IN ANY SETTING YOU MAY FANCY.
66 \ FASHION
Silk white Chantilly lace bateau neck Monaco gown with asymmetric tiered lace and tulle skirt, Harper headpiece and Monaco veil.
Ivory embroidered tulle strapless trumpet Darcelle gown, ivory embroidered tulle Darcelle bolero, Intrigue headpiece and Yvette shoe.
Ivory silk organza illusion neckline Portrait gown with natural waist, long sleeves and embroidered lace overlay, crystal embellished Portrait belt and Romance headpiece.
Silk white Chantilly lace strapless Azure gown with asymmetric horsehair peplum and full tulle skirt, Intrigue headpiece and Belle shoe.
Silk white embroidered tulle cap Illusion sleeve gown with natural waist and A-line skirt, Harper headpiece and Sophia shoe.
66 \
What are the inspirations behind your SS14 bridal collection? This season I was inspired by not just one bride but many. I considered the needs of every type of wedding. Tailored, sheath suits and highly embellished cocktail shifts for a more casual gathering, to more elaborate gowns of silk, lace, taffeta, and tulle in cascading layers for black tie affairs.
What are some key trends for bridal wear this year?Colour alternatives for white have been a trend. I think you should always opt for something that is not distracting and takes away from the big day. I love a pale pink or blush for a touch of the unexpected; it can be quite enchanting for the brides looking for something non-traditional. Shorter hemlines are also more common now on the runway. I have a line of short dresses in signature laces and jacquards for my brides who feel less is more.
What is the most important advice that you would give to brides who are finding it difficult to choose THE dress?I always tell my brides to be open minded. It is such an important day and a big investment, so you need to be 100% sure about your dress. I tell my brides at the beginning of the process to try on several styles of dresses so you can eliminate options. Most brides end up wearing a style they never dreamed of wearing!
Tell us more about some unique pieces in your SS14 collection; the lace capes, the jackets; they are quite modern and minimalist at the same time.My favourite silhouette for the season was a mini wedding dress with a matching overcoat either in jacquard or my signature lace.
Accessories and jewellery obviously play a big role in completing the wedding outfit. What is your philosophy when it comes to accessorising? The main key is not to wear something that will distract. All eyes should be on the bride and specifically her dress. The accessories should only complete her look and be a reflection of her aesthetic, but with special, luxurious elements. If you are wearing statement earrings, perhaps opt out of wearing a bold necklace; the same goes with hair accessories to make sure everything is balanced.
Monique Lhuillier is available at Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall.
Gold embroidered tulle halter modified trumpet Willow gown with full tiered tulle skirt and gold tulle chapel length Willow veil.
Silk white textured organza asymmetric draped Charade gown with cascading embroidery, Intrigue headpiece and Belle shoe.
FOCUS / 67
68 \ SPOTLIGHT
WILFREDO ROSADO HAS IT ALL; FEATHERS AND JEWELS DESIGNED WITH BOUNDLESS
CREATIVITY, AND IT IS ONE COLLECTION THAT WHEN WORN WILL PUT THE SPOTLIGHT ON YOU.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
QUIRKS
ART
SPOTLIGHT / 69
70 \ SPOTLIGHT
Black Rhodium Bracelet
Cocktail Ring that flips open revealing a mirror
Emerald Green Fringe Earrings
Flight of Fancy Brooch
Hand Carved Cameo Snake
PendantHand to Hand
Earrings
Urban Prince Pendant with
Mesh Tank
Earrings in Coloured Stones
The GreenArray Cuff
SPOTLIGHT / 71
we first laid eyes on the Green Array cuff, we knew we needed to pick the creative brains behind the curious piece of jewellery. A cross between a bracelet and an arm cuff, highlighted by gorgeous deep green feathers, it got the discussion going on how we would wear it and what we could style it with. It was in essence, a con-versation starter, and very much the vision that Wilfredo Rosado wanted to achieve when designing the piece. Just like the Green Array cuff (which is also available in sublime dusty pink feathers), the rest of Wilfredos collection was one inquisitive object after another. I want to create innovative pieces that can be worn to a grand ball but also to the nightclub, Wilfredo says.
It is a new age approach to the world of haute jewellery where designs can often be classical and structured, with valuable pieces only broken out for special occasions. I want my client to feel beautiful, sexy and unique. They are not wallflowers and used to getting attention and my jewellery is always a discussion focal point. I want them to feel as if they are wearing a work of art, something that has been a labour of love, something that is as unique and engaging as they are, he says. Wilfre-do is keen to introduce an alternative mindset to perceive his work as highly crafted pieces of art that are meant to be enjoyed, and not hidden in a vault somewhere, gathering dust. This form and function gives way to his dramatic yet cheerful aesthetics, honed by his eclectic years of experience of being tutored by two creative giants of con-trasting disciplines, Giorgio Armani and Andy Warhol. In an unexpected twist of fate, Wilfredos childhood dream of becoming a doctor was sidelined after being spotted by Armani for his eye for detail, and then by Warhol, who appointed Wilfredo as the fashion director of the cult magazine, Interview.
After immersing himself in the world of art, Wilfredo returned to join Armani, with whom he worked for 23 years. Jewellery had never been a main feature in his career, and yet, when he final-ly decided to venture out on his own, he started off by designing a limited edition line of fine jewellery for Versace. In a way, not coming from a jewellery background gave me a certain kind of freedom. I wasnt aware there were rules or guidelines so I de-signed as I pleased, letting my creativity run wild, Wilfredo says.
Throwing caution to the wind, he set about a chain reaction in cre-ating a new hype with the people he worked with. When working with my craftsmen they would study my ideas and become very excited as most of what I propose has never been done. This cre-ates a wonderful creative dynamic that I thrive on, he explains. Perhaps this ingenuity and gumption helped convince the famed Maison Lemaire to work with him, despite the fact that he was then a newcomer to the industry. The Array cuff was one of the few mas-terpieces, produced in collaboration with the feather atelier.
Wilfredos work, which now spans into a rather comprehen-sive collection, draws inspiration from urban culture and art, two
things that have been omnipresent for most of his life. Putting his spin into the way subculture is viewed and per-ceived and then translating them into wearable jewels, the process is a re-verse of more traditional jewel-mak-ing methods, which always starts from acquiring the stone. Versatility and de-signs that can be transformed with dif-ferent variants is also key to Wilfredos signature. Works like The Urban Prince embody this philosophy a handcarved ebony wood pendant inspired by the classic blackamoors depicting African merchants and princes is updated by Wilfredo resulting in pendants that re-flects an African-American face wear-ing mesh tanks and single earrings with a tilted crown. It is an ode to Jean Mi-chel Basquiat and much like the kids in New York who wear their baseball caps to the side, Wilfredo refers to the late cult American graffiti artist. The Feather Collection, of which the Array cuff is part, came from the time when
girls in the 1980s used to wear brightly coloured feathers on clips pinned to their hair or jeans. I loved the idea of using feathers with precious metals and stones, the contrast felt very unique to me.
The pieces, though flamboyant and sometimes theatrical, are truly characteristic of Wilfredos fantasies, and it takes women of certain panache to embody the spirit of the jewellery. The de-signer considers a cosmopolitan of women as his muses, including powerhouses like Maria Felix and Empress Farah Diba to contem-porary icons Rihanna and Charlotte Casiraghi. In some way, all these women exude a fearlessness and strength that I find allur-ing, he says.
In some way, all these
women exude a fearlessness and
strength that I find alluring.
When
idea of a small bag to carry only the essentials for an evening out has evolved from intricately beaded soft pouches of the 1920s to modern rectangular clutches. Now it marks an era of return to the world of delicate embellishments. As an extension of a stylised outfit, the clutch plays an even bigger visual role than a handbag, as it often accompanies a richly decorated evening dress. Reimagining the clutch as a piece of adornment was first an idea, and then manifested into a gorgeous collection by Bahraini designer Noof Al Shekar.
That begins the story of NS By Noof, the designers foray into the fantasy world of combining clutches with jewellery. In essence, they are statement clutches that takes jewellery further than the standard. After all, a clutch is a hand piece, Noof explains. The label goes big as purveyor of luxury and everything rich, rich being the fundamental DNA of the concept and craftsmanship that goes into each clutch. Every piece in the collection is crowned with unique semi-precious collectors stones handpicked and accumulated throughout Noof s travels around the world. The highly selective process brings about pieces that are limited and individually numbered, making each clutch a solitary experience of its own.
It is Noof s deep love for art jewels and royal patterns that form the framework for the designs of the clutches. The signature pieces feature gold brass structures and exotic skins with intricately carved patterns and then crowned with the individual stones. Working with Italian leather tanners, metal smith specialists and jewellery masters in Lebanon, the
THAT DESCRIBES NOOF CLUTCHES AND ITS DESIGNER, NOOF AL SHEKAR, IN A WORD.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
ATYPICAL
The
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FASHION / 73
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SHOUGCrowned with four natural zircons. This piece is made from a brass base covered with soft lambskin and encased in 22 karat gold plated brass. Comes with a hidden chain and tassle both in solid brass too.
ANDELUCIALimited Edition out of sevenIntricately caged and inspired architecture from the Andelucian Arabian empire. The signature collectors piece is crowned with a single stone with engraved 22 karat gold plated brass cage.
pieces then come to life marrying the fantasy visions of the designer with the seasoned hands of the artisans. They are centred on statement pieces, the unusual designs that leave me awestruck at the unbelievable amount of detail. Then come historical graphics, geometrical art forms in architecture and treasures that mark history, Noof says.
In a time where minimalism is celebrated in fashion, Noof certainly
IM SO PROUDto hear of women buying my creations to pass on to their daughters when they grow up.
AL FATEHFeaturing key intricate patterns of the label and crowned with two stones. Italian tanned nappa seeps through an engraved 22 karat gold plated brass.03
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does not shy away from her zeal for the regal fineries. But neither is the label a trend of the moment but an expression of something more classic and everlasting. When I design something I like it to be grand, everything about the process entails richness.
The indulgence in the art of jewels comes first and then stones, rich patterns, references from my archives of personalities and their treasured belongings, she explains.
While she celebrates the distinctiveness of both contemporary and storied
designers, the fickleness of the modern design industry is not something she identifies with, preferring NS By Noof to produce collections that are timeless. Im so proud to hear of women buying my creations to pass on to their daughters when they grow up; thats exactly what I aim to do, to build something that only gets more precious with time.
NS BY NOOF is now available atFifty One East, Lagoona Mall.
ANDELUCIA GRANDELimited Edition out of elevenAn upsize to the classic Andelucia, with the same cut out brass design of Arabesque inspiration. Crowned with a single stone, rich Italian tanned nappa with engraved 22 karat gold plated brass cage.
FASHION / 75
NOOF AL SHEKARthe visionary behind NS BY NOOF. How did you find yourself in the fashion world?It all started in 2009. Creativity has always been within me, passed down through generations. Curiosity took my hand and led me into a universe of exploration in jewels, clutches and refined luxuries where I fell in love and decided to stay. The more I searched, the more I came to learn that quality is priceless. Passion for the industry kept me going and took me further. The appreciation of luxury, beauty and the unique pushed me to bypass all struggles and brought me to where I am today.
Your Personal StyleDiscreet, feminine, timeless, I cant get enough of jewellery, at the same time I am not an over-the-top kind of person. Its very important to get the right amount of high shine and statement, going past just right becomes too much, thats what initially influenced the NS BY NOOF concept. Further to this, discretion and distinctiveness allows me to be me, not a follower. I love richness in everything, quality and style in its timeless sophistication.
Describe a typical day in the life of Noof Al Shekar. My jewel-surrounded kind of life differs every day, there is not a set routine. I am a follow your heart kind of person; these three words say it all. My family means the world to me. Experiments, discoveries and things I stumble upon add to my book of experiences. Thats how my typical days are spent, being everything but not typical.
CANDYA cross body clutch in crocodile leather featuring a handmade silver frame with lambskin lined interiors. The piece only comes in Cayman crocodile with varying stones.
ZAINLimited Edition out of one.Customisable piece with stones and leathers of choice featuring signature metalwork on top handle with detachable gold plated brass chain.
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THE THEME OF THE GRADUATION SHOW IS A PLAY OF TECHNICALITY MEETS THE INTRINSIC; THE STARTING POINT OF GARMENT
CONSTRUCTION AND THE DREAM OF EVERY FASHION DESIGNER TO BE IN THE CENTRE FRONT OF THEIR CAREERS. THE 15TH GRADUATION SHOW
OF THE VIRGINIA COMMONWEALTH UNIVERSITY QATAR SAW SIXTEEN FASHION DESIGN STUDENTS INTERPRET THEIR OWN MEANING OF BEING
IN THE CENTRE OF THE LIMELIGHT. A DRAMATIC INCREASE IN THE NUMBER OF GRADUATES THIS YEAR FROM THE LAST, THE COLLECTIONS
WERE ALSO MORE REFLECTIVE OF TRENDS OF THE TIME IN A BIG NOD TO THE COMMERCIAL VIABILITY OF THE GRADUATING DESIGNERS.
Being a Qatari male designer puts pressure on me to succeed and move forward in the fashion industry. I thrive in my passion to make my mark in the Middle East and, one day, the world.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROB ALTAMIRANO
CENTRE FRONT
AHMED MALALLA
SPOTLIGHT / 77
AISHAAL NAEMI
Inspired by jazz of the busy yet glamourous city of New York, I incorporated block colours with elegant detailing that is desirable and oozes sophistication.
AL ANOUDAL NUAIMI
ALEXIA THOMAS
My designs and ideas are bold, exaggerated and at times, dark. Im a gamer and I love fantasy, macabre themes, and anything whimsical and out of the ordinary.
Fashion, I define as processed memories. The first Filipino wedding, the grandfathers weird dancing, the first radical haircut, the mothers shoes and lipsticks, the rediscovery of Paris every time, all this makes the senior collection, right now.
78 \ SPOTLIGHT
DOUHAAL JOZALI
My Spring 2014 collection is inspired by geishas and is an homage to the strength of women. It combines an alluring Asian theme with a modernised take on Asian silhouettes.
I envision the women in my garments to feel free to wear them to any occasion; because my purpose it to invite Qataris to live their culture in todays means, not simply look back at it for a while and then forget it.
Dreams, thoughts and fantasies that cannot be conveyed through words are what I present to you in my collection that I believe to be an extension of me as a designer.
FATIMAMAKI
HISHAM DAWOUD
Red and pink never had it easy as a pair. Always dismissed as a fashion crime, I wanted to explore the beauty of these two colours paired together, and the results were magical.
I like imperfections; I like the tension, and my designs walk the line between drama and discipline. I really like working with futuristic and hi-tech textiles to make them look beautiful.
MAHAAL SAAD
MAHA KHALIFA
AL SUBAEY
Art is a way to communicate my feelings to the outside world. Inspiration comes from my surroundings, from memories of places I visited and from events that I have experienced.
IMELDAB. JURASOVA
SPOTLIGHT / 79
I was an avid collector of plush toy animals. I collected them in all colours, sizes and types. This collection is a combination of my two passions, plush toy animals and Harajuku fashion.
My bridal wear collection is inspired by chandeliers, extravagant decorative items that add a sense of drama and boldness. I was also inspired by jellyfishes; they are graceful creatures in my eyes.
MARIANNE FOLLACK BERMEJO
MUNIRA LAFF DA
SILVA
My collection is inspired by the great history of ancient Egypt and my Egyptian identity. For this, I researched ancient goddesses and mummies. I used a wide range of draping, gold prints and custom embroidery.
NADATAHA
80 \ SPOTLIGHT
The collection is based on the concept of natural forms and organic objects, inspired by the illustrations of German philosopher Ernst Haeckel. His work caught my eye because of all the beautiful lines and curves he worked into his drawing.
I am conscious of womens comfort which is why most tops have a loose fit. The colour palette consists of pastels symbolising purity and new beginnings.
NOOR ABDULLA
HAMADAL THANI
NOOR RASHID
AL THANI
RAYAH AL MEGHAISAIB
With designs contrived purely my nature, I try to remind us all that it is within Islamic teachings to appreciate the beauty of the natural world. Hours spent on studying the dissected physique of a rose led to my desire to recreate its splendor on the human form.
SPOTLIGHT / 81
WHERE THE BIG BOYSCOME OUT TO PLAY
Creating the ultimate range of handcrafted, contemporary and unique cufflinks for discerning businessmen, the Tateossian brand is a purveyor of stylish shirt sleeve fasteners for everyone from bankers to brokers. The mens collection now covers a wide range of accessories: from watches to money clips, bracelets, and necklaces all in keeping with the Tateossian trademark use of innovative and striking materials.
Lanvin Men focuses on their Flock accessories this summer, from bag packs to hand-strapped cases. Flocking, the textile screen printing technique, gets a reincarnation by Lanvin on leather resulting in velvety prints on the seasons IT pieces.
Orlando Bloom of The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit fame received his star on the Walk of Fame last month. He wore a muted blue Lanvin suit with Christian Louboutin shoes for the occasion.
Valentino Uomo is the new fragrance from the house by perfumer Olivier Polge. A profoundly Italian blend that brings together the scents of zesty bergamot, myrtle, coffee, gianduja cream and a touch of spice. The result is a subtle and light scent that is discreet only to be enjoyed up-close.
Prada presents a collection of Arabian-inspired sandals exclusively for this region using luscious materials including their signature Saffiano leather, antique hand-finished kid, and exotic skins. Each design features enamelled hardware with a focus on the fine details including the leather soles.
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HACKETT LONDON OPENED ITS DOORS IN
VILLAGGIO LAST MONTH WITH THE ATTENDANCE
OF THE LABELS FOUNDER, JEREMY HACKETT.
HACKETT LONDON IS ONE OF THE LEADING BRITISH
MENSWEAR BRANDS WITH CLOSE TO EIGHTY
STORES GLOBALLY. In the Middle East, the labels suit
and classic lines have been gaining fast momentum, not to mention its casual
collection the main revenue earner. In the last decade, Hackett has quickly become a favourite among men in the Gulf, and now
Arab shoppers to the labels stores in London are seeking out serious tailoring pieces. I
think they like the heritage. There has been a long history and relationship between Britain
and this region, Jeremy explains. The AW2014 collection, pictures a global traveller and the different incarnations and characters of the man on his travels. Pieces include hooded
shearlings, reversible padded suede jackets and luxury knits.
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