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Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Workshop„Textiles in Chemicals“
Hamburg, June 14, 2002
Lothar Lissner
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
1. Chemical Scope
2. Eco-toxicological Evidence
3. Regulation, Market and Actors
4. Substitutes
5. Implication for enterprises
Content
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Combined results from two case studies
1. Success of Textile Labels
2. Dry cleaning of textiles with PER
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Basic materials
• Synthetic fibres (Polyester, Polyamid, Polyacrilonitrile
• Wood pulp (Viscose, Cupro, Acetat)
• Cotton and flax
• Wool
• Silk
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Extractable heavy metals
AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc
Chemicals
Free formaldehydePesticides (Phenols, PCP, TeCP, OPP)PVC- plasticisersPhthalates Organotin compoundsDyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)Chlorinated organic carriersBiocides Flame retardants
Main problematic substances
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Production
Chemicals from the production or manufacturing of basic materials (synthetic fibres, wood pulp, cotton, wool, silk) as pesticides, bleaching chemicals, catalysts as antimony
Preparation
Cleaning and washing (solvents)Spinning (oils)
WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Pre-Treatment
Carbonising, washing, dyeing, printing, bleaching, mercerising etc.
Finishing
Treatments to achieve properties as
Easy care, Water repellent, Softening, Anti Static Treatment, Flame retardant, Moth proofing,Anti bactericidal and anti fungicidal
WAYS OF CHEMICALS INTO THE TEXTILE
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
In many cases:Certainty about the toxic properties as for dyes, pesticides, heavy metals, organo tin
Uncertainty or ambiguity about the NO-effect levels
On the following pages:Comparison of four label criteria
ECOTOXICOLOGICAL EVIDENCE
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin”
Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”
EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label
Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”
Ph-Value 4,0 - 7,5 4,0 - 9,0 ----- Acc. ISO 3071
Free formaldehyde 75 ppm 300 ppm 75/300 ppm 30 ppm
Extractable heavy metals(in ppm)AntimonyArsenicLeadCadmiumChromiumCr VI CobaltCopperNickelMercuryTinZinc
(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------
(in ppm)10,01,01,00,12,0under detection level4,050,04,00,02--------
Separated limit values for heavy metals in dyes and pigments, but not in the final product
(in mg/kg)----0,20,80,12,0---- 4,050,04,00,024,060,0
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
Parameter Oeko-Tex-Standard II”In direct contact with skin”
Oeko-Tex-Standard III”No direct contact with skin”
EU -ECO-EU Eco-Label
Nordic Eco-Label “Nordic Swan”Product group B “Clothes”
Organotin compounds (since 2000)
TBT 1 ppm TBT 1 ppm ---- Not acceptable
Dyes (arylamines, carcinogenic, allergic)
Not used Detailed List Detailed list accor ding to the German ban of azo-dyes list
Chlorinated organic carrier
1,0 ppm 1,0 ppm Not acceptable
1% of the weight (halogenated subst.)
Biocides finish Not acceptable
Not acceptable
------ Not acceptable
Flame retardant finish None None No substance labelled with R45, R46, R50, R52, R53, R60 or R 61
Bromo- and chloro- organic flame retardants not acceptable
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
REGULATION
Important regulative areas
Regulation of raw material production:Pesticides in wool andcotton production – very divergent depending on the regulations in the different 1.,2.,3.World nations
Regulation of processing chemicals in the textile manufacturing from different areas, most important:Waste water, dyeing process (see also for a complete overview the BREF-Reference Document on Best Available Techniques for the Textiles Industry, Nov 01)
Regulation of the final productMainly via Labels (Oeko-Tex, European Eco Label, Nordic Swan)
Import controls – low enforcement
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
MARKET
Globalised production
Very dispersed supply chain
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
ACTORS
Divergent views on substitution encountered:
Consumers
Retail
Textile producers in industrialised and 2. and 3. World countries
The suppliers of textile chemicals
Suppliers of synthetic fibres / Suppliers of natural fibres
Governments and WTO
Label issuers
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
SUBSTITUTES
Main strategies
Emission reduction by fixing of chemicals to reduce the extractability res emission
Substitution or very reduced use of the most hazardous products as carcinogenic dyes or some pesticides
Strict emission control as in the waste water area
Strict emission control of PER in dry cleaning
Kooperationsstelle Hamburg
Substitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and ProcessesSubstitution of Hazardous Chemicals in Products and Processes
IMPLICATIONS FOR ENTERPRISES
Retail services:Trust on existing labels or development of own criteria
Textile producers: Trust on the suppliers res. labels or control instruments used by suppliers
The suppliers of textile chemicals Development of innovative products
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