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beautyINDIE
GETTING TO KNOW indie beautyTRENDING ingredientsthe stories behind TOP INDIE BRANDS BY american spa
ADVERTORIAL
behind the brand
KM HerbalsOur Rose Collection gently nourishes, tones, and protects with the abundantly hydrating properties of rose petals! Refresh and renew your clients’ springtime regimens with Nourishing Rose Hand & Body Lotion, Rosehips Ultra C Moisture Complex, Rose Petal Crème Cleanser, Radiant Rose Moisturizer, Bulgarian Rose Hydrosol, and Rose Otto Pure Essential Oil. www.kmherbals.com | (707) 878-2980
Eu’Genia SheaEu’Genia Shea is an all-natural skincare line with high concentrations of shea butter, nature’s wonder balm. Soothe post-wax irritation, get clients into the zone with a shea massage, or rehydrate after a facial or chemical peel. No matter the question, Eu’Genia Shea is the answer. www.eugeniashea.com | (301) 655-7441
ImmupureImmupure anti-aging skincare products contain a unique, natural complex obtained from proline-rich peptide colostrum to fight wrinkles and rebuild collagen. www.immupure.com | (866) 234-4589
CelleClé SkincareOur AntiPollution and Tranquility Key Collection addresses the sensitizing and aging effects of pollution, stress, modern lifestyles, technology-induced damage and urbanization. The line detoxifies environmental pollutants, restoring a healthy glow while dramatically reducing the appearance of lines and wrinkles, brightening urban dullness, and calming sensitivities, providing modern solutions for modern problems. www.cellecléskincare.com | (888) 731-2525
Indie beauty, which is loosely defined as a beauty company that is
owned at least 50 percent or more by those directly operating it, is
booming. A recent Kline market research report pointed out that while
indie brands only comprise about seven percent of the $43 billion beauty
market, they have grown four times as quickly as other brands in the
past five years. Case in point? Between 2013 and 2014, indie brands
grew at an impressive rate of nearly 20 percent. A 2016 trend study from
Women’s Marketing also tagged indie beauty as noteworthy, because its
popularity is driven, in a large part, by millennial women who are looking
for unique products and brands with an intriguing point of view and
voice. And millennials are proving to be big beauty spenders.
For all these reasons and more, this is a trend that shows no signs of
stopping and one that has caught the eyes of the editors of American Spa. At
trade shows, on spa shelves, and in the press, we’re seeing an influx of new
indie beauty brands. We’ve also noted a variety of events that highlight this
specific demographic, including the Indie Beauty Expo, which debuted in
New York City in August 2015 and takes place this month in Los Angeles.
American Spa takes pride in keeping our readers updated on issues that
are creating buzz in our industry, so we are proud to introduce Indie Beauty
By American Spa to do just that. For spas that might be interested in tapping
into this trend, we help you out by defining the concept in “Independent
Source,” on page 2; pointing out ingredients that are making waves in
“Ingredients of Note,” on page 6; giving you a recap of the recent New York
edition of Indie Beauty Expo, on page 10; and highlighting interesting indie
beauty trends, studies, reports, and more, on page 20. You can also get
to know some up-and-coming indie beauty companies in our Behind the
Brand advertorial section, starting on page 12.
There is more to share about this unique part of the beauty biz, so Indie
Beauty By American Spa will be back again in 2017. Stay tuned for the April
and July issues to learn more about this interesting industry subset.
Best wishes,
Julie Keller Callaghan
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher
jkeller@questex.com
EDITORIAL
Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Julie Keller Callaghan
Executive Editor Heather Mikesell
Freelance Art Director Kara Magliaro
Senior Editor Jennifer Nied
Editorial & Sales Coordinator Darby Radcliff
OFFICE
757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017; tel: (212) 895-8200, fax: (212) 895-8219
SALES Director, Integrated Media, Eastern Region
Lucy Hugo, tel: (203) 493-1221, lhugo@questex.com
Director, Integrated Media, Western Region
Kristina Panter, tel: (714) 485-5331, kpanter@questex.com
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Indie Beauty By American Spa is published by Questex. Corporate Offices: 275 Grove Street, Suite 2-130, Newton, MA 02466;
Copyright 2017 by Questex. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or
by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or by any other information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher.
INDEPENDENCE
2 Independent Source Discover why spas are taking note of indie beauty brands.
6 Ingredients of Note Indie experts provide insight
into trending ingredients.
10 Discovery Channel Take a peek at Indie Beauty Expo
New York in our post-show recap.
12 Behind the Brand Get to know an assortment of
indie beauty companies that are making an impact.
20 Indie Insight Delve into interesting
studies, stats, and more.
contents11
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AMER ICANSPA.COM JANUARY 2017 IND IE BEAUTY | 1
SOURCEAs the indie beauty movement surges forward, spas are discovering how these brands have the power to transform the industry.
With a line of beauty enthusiasts that
flowed out the door and down the block,
the Indie Beauty Expo held this past
August in New York City revealed how in
demand independent beauty brands have
become in the industry. This defining
moment was something founders Jillian
Wright and Nader Naeymi-Rad could only
have dreamed of when they first envisioned
launching the Indie Beauty Expo. Seeing
an unmet need in the market, Wright was
driven by her personal experience as a
buyer for her former spa Jillian Wright
Clinical Skin Spa (New York City) and
as creator of her own line, Jillian Wright
Skincare. “As a working mom and small spa
owner, I could not afford to pull myself away
from my business for four days to fly to a
major trade show to source products,” says
Wright. “Plus, the vast majority of products
did not fit my treatment strategies—clean,
natural, results-oriented—or they had high
minimums.” After launching her brand,
Wright was unable to find a show that met
her needs. “My line was too luxurious and
specialized for a farmer’s market or natural
products show,” she says. “And a big
generalist beauty show didn’t appeal to me
either, because I would be lost among the
exhibitors there. I was stuck in the middle
and knew of so many other amazing indie
brands that were stuck there with me.”
Wanting to remedy the situation, Wright
teamed up with former client Naeymi-
Rad, an entrepreneur and management
consultant, to build a platform specifically
for the indie market. Together, they
launched the first Indie Beauty Expo in
New York City in August 2015. According
to Wright, participating companies had
to be owned 50 percent or more by those
directly operating them. While independent
remains the key word when defining this
category, it can go even deeper for some.
“Indie beauty is, technically, any beauty
company that is independently owned by an
individual,” says Jeannie Jarnot, an advisor
for the Indie Beauty Expo and founder of
Beauty Heroes, an online healthy beauty
store and curated subscription box. “But
for me, indie beauty is a product line that
carries a point of view, process, formula,
or philosophy of beauty that stems from an
individual and is unique and independent
from the rest of the beauty industry.”
While it may seem that many indie
beauty brands are ‘natural’ or ‘green,’ that
isn’t always the case. “However, I will say
that it is hard to be a mass beauty brand
and maintain the high level of ingredient
integrity that some indie beauty brands
maintain, because natural ingredients just
aren’t available in the quantities needed to
support mass beauty brands,” says Jarnot,
who has established guidelines to define
continued on page 4
independent
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defining indie beauty
AMER ICANSPA.COM JANUARY 2017 IND IE BEAUTY | 3
defining indie beauty
popular beauty-related terms. For instance,
according to her, clean refers to ingredients
and means the product is made with either
a minimal or zero-carbon footprint and is
derived as naturally as possible. Green
refers to the packaging and distribution of
a product, which should feature a minimal
carbon footprint and non-toxic materials.
“A disproportionate number of indie beauty
brands are clean or green,” says Wright.
“And the reason is simple —it ’s what
matters to consumers nowadays, and it’s
also an area where larger and older brands
fail to deliver. As the new market entrants,
indie brands can work with a clean slate.”
Driving the success of these brands
is the innovation and originality behind
them. The fact that they s tand out
from the crowd is what makes them so
attractive. According to Wright, retailers
and spa dire ctors are changing up
their game plans and sourcing smaller
and harder-to-find brands that appeal
to consumers based on their stories
and novel product attributes, such as
ingredients, packaging, and more. “I
think the success of so many indie brands
is fueling the growth of more indie beauty
startups,” says Jarnot. “I also believe the
ability to reach consumers through social
media has made marketing indie beauty
brands more accessible and has inspired
new brands to enter the market.”
PROS AND CONS
This growing segment of the market
cer tainly presents new opportunities
for spas interested in dif ferentiating
themselves, such as International Orange
(IO) (Larkspur, CA, and San Francisco),
which carries a host of indie brands.
“Since we opened our doors on Fillmore
Street back in 2002, we have committed to
providing a thoughtful curation of natural,
luxury beauty,” says cofounder and owner
Melissa Ferst. “Back then, nearly all of
the natural brands were indie. They were
often local or regional makers who worked
with farms we trusted.” While spas have
many more options from which to choose
these days, the fact remains that working
with indie brands can present a number
of opportunities. “Indie brands tend to be
much closer to their ingredient sources
with known, high-quality ingredients that
have been carefully, sustainably, and fairly
sourced,” says Jarnot. “The brands are also
much more flexible in creating exclusive
offerings and custom treatments.”
Another benefit of working with an
indie brand, notes Jarnot, is the access it
often provides to the founder. Ferst, too,
finds this to be an advantage. “It helps us
to have that personal connection, and our
team really benefits from the personalized
level of service,” she says. “And of course,
we believe that the indie brands we carry
deliver incredible results.” IO spa-goers are
certainly gravitating toward these original
lines. “We hope that our clients see IO as
their destination for clean beauty from
indie, niche, and up-and-coming brands,”
says Ferst. “ We love the element of
surprise, and we always try to feature a few
indie brands that have yet to be discovered
by the masses. This is what our clients truly
appreciate about The Shop at IO.”
continued from page 2
4 | IND IE BEAUTY JANUARY 2017 AMER ICANSPA.COM
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Still, there can be some challenges
associated with working with an indie brand
versus a more established one. On one
hand, they’re not always recognizable and
thus may take a stronger, more involved
sales strategy to entice unfamiliar clients.
O f course, some may see this as an
advantage, because it makes them more
exclusive. What presents a bigger challenge
is the lack of marketing support that larger
and more established brands are able to
provide. According to Jarnot, indie beauty
brands also have a harder time offering
discounts on their products. Many also lack
the research and development resources
that bigger beauty brands have, which may
impact their product formulations. Because
some begin as “kitchen cooks,” creating
products in their kitchens or garages, they
may not have the scientific knowledge or
technology incorporated in their formulas.
Ferst notes that inventory can be an issue,
as well. “If a raw ingredient isn’t available,
it can affect the production timeline,” she
says. And not all indie brands have the
resources to replace a bad batch or to
make sure all products have been tested for
efficacy and safety.
CHANGING TIDES
Fortunately, for many spas, the benefits of
working with indie brands far outweigh the
disadvantages, and they are finding them
to be a valuable complement to some of
the more well-known brands with whom
they continue to work. As a result, more
and more spas are taking a second look.
And they should, as the influence of these
brands is growing. In particular, they are
cultivating a new consumer awareness
about ingredients. According to Jarnot,
indie brands work hard to highlight their
unique ingredient stories. Consequently,
s p a - g o e r s a r e b e t t e r v e r s e d a b o u t
healthy products versus those with toxic
ingredients. “There’s been unprecedented
transparency in the beauty industry in the
last several years, and this whistle-blowing
has truly transformed the industry,” says
Ferst. “We think this is a great shift.”
Another major shif t af fecting the
growing indie beauty movement is the way
consumers shop. “Nowadays, in retail in
general, unless you have big volume or a
captive audience, such as at an airport, the
only way to survive the onslaught of discount
sites or mass retailers is to carry really good
and cool stuff that consumers can’t easily
find elsewhere,” says Wright. “In the spa
market, you have the added challenge that
so many spas are now carrying the exact
same big spa brands that it’s getting harder
to give clients a compelling reason to shop
or to shop more with them. This is why indie
brands are winning. Consumers want them,
and retailers need them.”—Heather Mikesell
20 | IND IE BEAUTY JANUARY 2017 AMER ICANSPA.COM
market research
indieINSIGHT
Take a look at some compelling studies, stats, and more related to this
buzzworthy beauty market. independent brands can often be thought of as disruptors in the sector in which they compete. They typically offer
products that solve a problem, offer a more attractive way of doing something, or cater to a specific demographic, and tend to use social media as a means of engaging
with consumers. Larger brands may get ideas from these companies in terms of new products, new packaging, or new advertising.—Kelly Alexandre, analyst at Kline Group, in an interview in the article “How Indie Brands are Reinventing the U.S.
Cosmetics Market” on www.cosmeticsdesign.com
The global beauty industry is
expected to produce $461 BILLION in revenue by
2018, up from $379 billion in
2013, according to a report
from Research and Markets. In
particular, growth is being driven
by niche and prestige brands.
The U.S. cosmetics and personal-
care industry is currently worth
$43 BILLION and delivering 3
percent annual growth. In 2014, indie
brands accounted for 7.3 percent of the total market but delivered
an average growth rate of 19.6
percent from 2013 to 2014.—Beauty’s
Most Buyable Brands: Analysis of
Booming Independent Brands in the
U.S., Kline Group study
GLOBAL DEMAND FOR organic
PERSONAL-CARE PRODUCTS, ONE-
THIRD OF WHICH ARE SKINCARE
PRODUCTS, IS EXPECTED TO REACH
$13.2 BILLION BY 2018.
—Transparency Market Research
TOP BEAUTY TRENDS
Natural
Researchers found that 49 PERCENT of millennial
women prefer natural or organic skincare products
and intend to purchase them in the future. As concerns
about endocrine-disrupting chemicals and the
environment grow, women are selecting products with
fewer, more natural, but equally effective, ingredients.
Indie Brands
Long-established beauty giants hungry for innovation
and the coveted millennial demographic continue to
acquire a record number of independent beauty brands.
Analysts expect this trend to continue, as there’s a growing
interest among millennial women for unique products
and brands with an intriguing point of view and voice.
—Beauty Trends 2016, Women’s Marketing ILLU
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