How to Make Mohair Yarn - cac-program.orgcac-program.org/files/fiber/manual-mohair.pdf · Carded...

How to Make Mohair Yarn

Steps in Making Mohair Yarnin Tajikistan

by Liba Brent

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Step 1: Selecting Mohair Fleece for Processing

Thequalityoftheyarndependsonthequalityofthemohairfleece.Tomakeyarnforknittinggarments,itisimportanttoselectfinekidmohair.

Whatdoesqualitykidmohairlooklike?• itcomesfroma6-12montholdAngoragoat• itissofttotouch• ithasalowpercentageofkempfibers• ithaswelldefinedlocks• ithasluster• itisfreeofcontaminants

Step 2: Dehair fiber

Tajikmohairfleecescontainkempandmedulatedfibersandneedtobedehaired.Thebestdehairingmethodisbyusingalargecomb:

• separateindividuallocksfromthefleece• combeachlockstartingatthecutendandthenthetip• shakethelockaftercombingtoletloosekempfibersfallout• anaveragefleecewillyield1/3ofcombedmaterial,1/3ofcombedwaste,and1/3ofmattedorcontaminatedhairthatcannotbecombed

How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn

Step 3: Scour fiber

Dehairedfiberneedstobescouredinhot,soapywateruntilitiscleanfromgrease,dirtandanyvegetablecontaminants:

• usemilddetergentsuchas“Fairy”liquidsoaporshampoo,1tspper2litersofwater• donotagitatefiberduringwashingtopreventmatting• rinsefiberincleanwater• donotchangewatertemperatureduringwashingandrinsing;fibershouldnotbemovedfromhottocoldwaterandviceversa

Step 4: Card fiber

Scouredfiberneedstobecardedusingacardingmachinesuitableformohair.InTajikistanmohaircanbecardedontheRussian-made“Orlovchanka”machine.Itisimportantthatthemachineisadjustedtoworkataslowspeedandthatitdoesnottearfibersduringcarding.

• cardonlyscouredfiber• loosenthelocksbyhandpriortocarding• slowlyfeedthefiberthroughthecardingmachine• repeat2times

How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn

Step 5: Spin fiber

Cardedfiberisreadyforspinning.Thefibercanbespunusingaspindle,amanualspinningwheeloranelectricspinningmachine.Theelectricspinningmachineismoreproductiveandusefulwhenspinningyarnforcommercialpurposes.

Step 6: Maintain yarn qualityYarnqualitydirectlyaffectsitsvalueandcompetitivenessonthemarket.Yarnmadeforexporthastomaintainspecifiedqualitystandard:

• theyarnhastobeeven-eachskeinhastohaveanoptimaltwist;thenumberoftwistspercentimeterhastobesameorveryclosethroughouttheskein• theyarncannotbeoverspun(toomanytwists)• theyarncannotbeunderspun(toofewtwists)• eachspinnerhastomaintainconsistencyintwistbetweenskeins

How to Make Mohair Yarn How to Make Mohair Yarn

Step 7: Skein preparation

Theyarnhastobewashedinamilddetergentafterspinningandwoundontoawindertodry• windthedryyarnintoaskeinandtietheskeinintwoplaces• labeleachskeinwithweightandyardage• makesurethataskeinhasnomorethan2-3knots• maintainaconsistentratioofweight/yardageforallskeins(skeinsthatdiffercannotbeknittedintoaqualitygarment)

Enjoy Tajik Mohair!adventureyarns.com

How to Make Mohair Yarn