Hairstyling Chapter 17. Hairstyling The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has always had a...

Hairstyling

• Chapter 17

HairstylingHairstyling

• The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has The art of hairstyling or dressing the hair has always had a direct relation to the fashion, art, always had a direct relation to the fashion, art, and life of the timesand life of the times

• A person’s hairstyle often reflects the period in A person’s hairstyle often reflects the period in which they livewhich they live

• Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling Historical and technical knowledge of hairstyling will prepare you for the constant cyclical changes will prepare you for the constant cyclical changes of fashionof fashion

• By learning basic styling techniques, you will be By learning basic styling techniques, you will be able and ready to create endless styles to keep able and ready to create endless styles to keep clients happyclients happy

Wet Hairstyling Tools:

• Combs – • Brushes• Rollers• Clips – duckbill, sectioning, double prong• Pins – bobby or hair• Clamps – butterfly clips

Finger waving

• ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Was the rage in the 1920’sWas the rage in the 1920’s

Waving lotion• Is a type of hair gel that makes the hair

_____________ enough to keep it in place during the enough to keep it in place during the finger waving processfinger waving process

• Traditionally made from _____________ an ingredient found in trees in India and Africa

• A good waving lotion is harmless to the hair and __________________________

• If you use too much the hair will be too wet and If you use too much the hair will be too wet and drippingdripping

Finding the natural partFinding the natural part

• Comb wet hair straight back from the hairlineComb wet hair straight back from the hairline• Push the hair gently forward with the palm of the Push the hair gently forward with the palm of the

handhand• Use your comb and other hand to separate the Use your comb and other hand to separate the

hair where it partshair where it parts

Horizontal finger waving• Part hairPart hair• Apply waving lotionApply waving lotion• Shape the hair into a S or C shapingShape the hair into a S or C shaping• Place index finger of your left hand directly above the position for the Place index finger of your left hand directly above the position for the

first ridge, with the teeth of the comb pointing slightly upward insert first ridge, with the teeth of the comb pointing slightly upward insert the comb directly under the index finger, draw the comb forward the comb directly under the index finger, draw the comb forward about 1 inchabout 1 inch

• Flatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in placeFlatten the comb against the head to hold ridge in place• Remove your left hand and place your middle finger above the ridge Remove your left hand and place your middle finger above the ridge

with your index finger on the teeth of the combwith your index finger on the teeth of the comb• Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure – Draw out the ridge by closing the two fingers and applying pressure –

do not push or over directdo not push or over direct• Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a semicircular Turn the teeth downward and comb the hair in a semicircular

direction opposite the slidedirection opposite the slide• Continue this procedure until all sections are completeContinue this procedure until all sections are complete

Pin Curls

• Pin curls serve as the basis for patterns, line waves, curls, and rolls that are used in a wide range of hairstyles

• Can be used on all types of hair• __________________________________________

__________________________• Have three basic parts: ___________________________________

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3 Basic Parts of a Pin Curl

Base•______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

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Stem•__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

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Circle•__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

1212

Mobility of a curl

• ______________________________________________________________________________________________________

• There are 3 classifications of curl mobility: • _________________curl• _________________curl • _________________ curl

No Stem

•____________________________________________

• produces a ____________________________________________

• allows ________ mobility

Half Stem

•_____________________•____________________________________________

•gives good control to the hair

1515

Full Stem•_____________________________•__________________________________

__________________________•base may be square, triangular, half-

moon, or rectangular •Gives as much freedom as the length of Gives as much freedom as the length of

the stem will permit, if it is exaggerated the stem will permit, if it is exaggerated the hair near the scalp will be flat the hair near the scalp will be flat

•____________________________________________________________

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Shaping

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Are either open ended or closed ended• __________________________________________

__________________________

Open / Closed Center Curls

• __________________________________________________________________________________________

• ____________________ curls produce waves that _____________ in size toward the end. They are good for fine hair, if a fluffy curl is desired

Open Center / Closed Center

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Stem and Direction

• Curls may be turned toward the face, away from the face, upward, downward, or diagonally

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Bases / Foundations

• Most common _________________________________

• To avoid splits in the finished hairstyle you must use care when selecting and forming the curl base

• Each curl must lie flat and smooth on its base• __________________________________________

__________________________

Rectangular Base

• usually recommended at the side front hairline• for a smooth effect and to avoid splits in the

comb-out the pin curls must overlap

Triangular Base

• recommended along the front or facial hairline to prevent breaks or splits

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Arc Base / C shape / Half Moon

• _____________________________• give good direction and may be used

at the hairline or in the nape

2424

Square Bases

•suitable for curly hairstyles without much volume or lift

• can be used on any part of the head•to avoid splits stagger the sections

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Pin curl techniques• Ribboning:

__________________________________________________________________________________________

Carved Curls

•______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

2727

Wave• To create a wave effect use two rows of

pin curls set one row _______________ and one ______________________________

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Ridge Curls

• Are pin curls placed immediately behind or below a ridge to form a finger wave

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Skip Waves

• Are two rows of ridge curls usually on the side of the head

3030

Pin curl procedurePin curl procedure

• Form C shapingForm C shaping• Slice a strand to create the first curlSlice a strand to create the first curl• Point your left index finger down and hold the Point your left index finger down and hold the

strand in placestrand in place• Ribbon the strandRibbon the strand• Wind the curl forward keeping the ends inside the Wind the curl forward keeping the ends inside the

center of the curlcenter of the curl• Hold the curl in the shaping and anchor it with a Hold the curl in the shaping and anchor it with a

clipclip

Pin Curl Procedure

Anchoring pins

• To anchor pin curls start at the__________________________– this is the side opposite the stem

• The clip should enter the circle parallel to the stem• To avoid a dent in the curl

__________________________________• If clips touch the skin place cotton under them

before placing client under the dryer

Stand up Curls

• ______________________________________• they are fastened to the head in a standing

position to allow hair to flow upward and then downward

• size of the curl determines the amount of height in the comb-out

Barrel Curls

•have a large center opening and are fastened to the head in a standing position on a rectangular base

•is similar to a roller but does not have the same tension as a roller when it is set

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Roller Curls Advantages• Use to create many of the same effects as stand-up Use to create many of the same effects as stand-up

pin curlspin curls• ____________________________________________

________________________• Faster way to set hair• Hair is wrapped around the roller with tension which

gives a longer-lasting effect• Come in variety of shapes and sizes, which broadens

the creative possibilities for styles

ROLLERS

Parts of a Roller Curl• ___________ panel of hair on which the

roller is placed. Base should be same length and width as the roller. The type of base does effect the volume

• ___________ hair between the scalp and the first turn of the roller, ____________________________________________________________

• _____________ or circle, the hair that is wrapped around the roller, determines the size of the wave or curl

3 Parts of a roller curl

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Choosing your roller size•Relationship between the length of the hair and the size of the roller will determine the results

•C shape, Wave, or Curl

C Shape

• One complete turn around the roller

4141

Wave

• One and a half turns

4242

Curl

• Two and a half turns

4343

Roller Placement

• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• General rule – larger the roller the greater the volume

• There are three basic roller placements or bases: On Base, Half Base, Off Base

• Special roller placement is indentation

On Base

• For __________________ the roller is placed directly on its base

• ________________(higher than 90 degrees) the strand slightly in front of the base and then roll the hair down to the base

Half Base

• ______________________________________• The roller sits

____________________________________________________________________________

• Hold the strand ___________________________________________ and roll the hair down

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OFF BASE

•________________________________•The roller sits __________________________•Hold the

strand_______________________________________________________________________

4747

Indentation

• Placement of rollers on the head usually follows the Placement of rollers on the head usually follows the movement of the finished stylemovement of the finished style

• is the point where curls of opposite directions meet forming a recessed area, this is often found in a _________________

Hot Rollers

• To be used only on dry hair• They are heated either electrically or by steam• Allow the rollers to set in the hair for

approximately 10 minutes• A thermal protector should be sprayed on the hair

prior to setting• The result curl is less strong than a wet set curl but

longer lasting than a curling iron curl

Velcro Rollers

• Are not allowed by some state boards because of the difficulty of sanitizing them properly______________________________

• Used only on dry hair, using them on wet hair will snag and tear the hair

• Often used after a blow-out to reinforce a curl of wave• No clipping is necessary the Velcro fabric grips the hair

and holds itself in place• Mist entire head with hairspray, dry under a hood

dryer for 5 – 10 minutes

Comb-Out Techniques• Back combing – aka

____________________________________________________________________________

• Best way to ____________________________________________________________________________

• Involves combing small sections of hair from the ends towards the scalp, causing shorter hair to mat at the scalp and form a cushion or base

• During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing would During the 1950’s and 60’s back brushing would allow a client to wear their hair in their style for an allow a client to wear their hair in their style for an entire weekentire week

• Teasing hair is a __________ for a good updo

Back combing procedureBack combing procedure

• Section hair, pick up a section no more than 1 inch Section hair, pick up a section no more than 1 inch thick and 2 to 3 inches widethick and 2 to 3 inches wide

• Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth of about 1 Insert comb using fine teeth at a depth of about 1 ½ inches from the scalp½ inches from the scalp

• Press the comb down gently to the scalp repeat Press the comb down gently to the scalp repeat this process until desired volume is achievedthis process until desired volume is achieved

• Create a cushion by firmly pushing the hair down Create a cushion by firmly pushing the hair down to the scalpto the scalp

• Smooth the hair so as not to see the packing or Smooth the hair so as not to see the packing or cushioning at the scalp cushioning at the scalp

Backcombing

Hair Wrapping

• Useful to keep curly hair smooth and straight while retaining a beautiful shape

• __________________________________________________________________________________________

• Wrapping can be done on wet or dry hair• On overly curly hair press it first and then do a dry hair wrapping• Apply a silicone shine product before wrapping for a glossy

comb out• For extra protection stretch a neck strip around the head so that

it overlaps at the ends• The longer the hair is wrapped the smoother it will be

Hair Wrapping

Blow-dry styling

• ____________________________________________________________________

• The impression of the client’s haircut will be The impression of the client’s haircut will be determined by the quality of the blow-drydetermined by the quality of the blow-dry

Tools for blow-dry styling

• Blow-dryer – and electrical appliance designed for drying and styling hair

• Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating Its main parts are handle, slotted nozzle, small fan, heating element, speed and heat controls, and cool shot buttonelement, speed and heat controls, and cool shot button

• Temperature control switch helps to produce a steady Temperature control switch helps to produce a steady stream of air at the desired temperaturestream of air at the desired temperature

• __________________ is a directional feature that creates a concentrated stream of air

• __________________is an attachment that causes the air to flow more softly and help to accentuate or keep textural (curl) definition

Blow-dryer tips• To keep blow-dryer safe and effective keep it clean

and free of dirt, oil, and hair• The air intake at the back of the dryer must also be

kept clear at all times• Dropping a blow-dryer can damage the fan or

heating element• Never hold the blow-dryer too long in one

place_________________________________• ____________________________________________

________________________________• ____________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________

Tools for styling hair

• Picks and combs: designed to distribute and part the hair, they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, hard rubber combs should always be used with thermal tools

• Brushes: choose one based on the length, texture, and styling needs of the hair that you are working with

Brushes

Combs

61

Classic Styling Brush

• half round rubber based typically have with seven or nine rows of round tipped nylon bristles

• heat resistant and antistatic • used where little volume is desired

6262

Paddle Brush

• large, flat base are well suited for mid to longer length hair

• usually with ball tipped nylon pins

6363

Grooming Brush

• usually oval with a mixture of boar and nylon bristles

• boar helps to distribute scalp oils throughout hair shaft

6464

Vent Brush

• ventilated design, used to ______________________________

• great for adding volume and lift at the scalp

6565

Round Brush• Come in various diameters • usually natural bristles, smaller brush gives more curl • used to lift hair at scalp and add volume • metal cylinders bases act as electric roller • use the cool shot button to “set” the shape

66

Teasing Brush

• thin nylon styling brush that has a tail for sectioning along with a narrow row of bristles

6767

Tools for styling continued…• Styling product: are thought of a _________________ with so

many products on the market a stylist needs to consider the following:

• 1.How long does the style need to hold?

• 2.What are the environmental • conditions, humidity, wind, sun?• 3.Type of hair, straight, curly?• 4.Amount of support desired, using it

on fine or coarse hair?

Mousse

• light airy whipped styling product that resembles shaving foam

• It builds moderate body and volume into the hair • good for fine hair will not weigh it down• great for blowouts needing volume & roller sets

Gel•thickened styling preparation that

comes in a tube or bottle •create the strongest control for slicked

or molded styles •firm hold may overwhelm fine hair

70

Liquid Gel / Texturizer

•lighter and usually a more liquid in form, add volume and body to the hair

7171

Straightening Gel / Serum•is applied to hair ranging from wavy to

extremely curly and creates a smooth straight look that will hold in a variety of weather conditions, this is temporary and will only last from shampoo to shampoo

72

Volumizers

•add volume to the hair, usually have a drying effect on the hair and should only be ______________________________

7373

Pomade / Wax

• add considerable weight to the hair by causing the strands to join together

• showing separation in the hair, makes dry hair easy to mold

• should be used sparingly on fine hair• excellent on short hair • check ingredients and avoid all products with petroleum

and mineral oil

7474

Silicone

• adds gloss and sheen to the hair while creating textural definition

• nonoily silicones are best to add at the end for extra shine• spray formulas are useful for fine hair so they do not add

weight

7575

Hairspray / Finishing Mist

•mist or aerosol formula used to hold hair in place

• available in a variety of holding strengths

7676

Thermal Hairstyling

• aka _________________________________________

• Methods of waving and curling straight or pressed hair using thermal irons and special manipulative techniques on dry hair

• Electrical or stove heated

• Made of quality steel to provide even heat controlled by the stylist

• Stove irons are capable of higher heat settings preferred w/extremely curly hair

Thermal Iron 4 basic parts

• Rod handle• Shell handle• Barrel or rod (cylinder)• Shell

Flat Iron

• Have two hot plates ranging in size from ½ inch to 3 inches across

• Straight edges used to create straight styles• Beveled edges can be manipulated to bend or curl

the ends• best are made from ______________ not coated

plates• titanium, tourmaline ceramic, nano

Testing Thermal Irons

• Test it on a piece of tissue paper or a damp towel• Clamp the iron on the material and hold for 5

seconds• __________________________________________

__________________________

Care of thermal irons• To remove dirt, oils and product residue, dampen a

towel or rag and wipe down the barrel of the iron with a soapy solution containing a few drops of ammonia

• Do not _______________ the barrel in the solutions• Do not do this when your iron is on• Do not do this when your iron is hot• Premixed solutions

Manipulating thermal ironsManipulating thermal irons

• Grasp the iron in your right hand far enough away Grasp the iron in your right hand far enough away from the joint to avoid the heatfrom the joint to avoid the heat

• Place your three middle fingers on the back of the Place your three middle fingers on the back of the lower handle, your little finder in front of the lower handle, your little finder in front of the lower handle and your thumb in front of the lower handle and your thumb in front of the upper handleupper handle

• Practice rolling a cold iron until you are Practice rolling a cold iron until you are comfortable comfortable

Manipulating thermal irons

Temperature

• There is no single correct temperature used for There is no single correct temperature used for the ironthe iron

• ____________________________________________________________________

• ______________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Coarse hair can withstand a greater temperatureCoarse hair can withstand a greater temperature

Types of curls

• Barrel curl – good for short hair (can be volume (can be volume based, full based, half based, or off base)based, full based, half based, or off base)

• Figure 6 curl – good for medium hair• Figure 8 curl – good for long hair• Spiral curl – curling hair by winding it around the

rod, inserted at an angle• End curls – finished appearance to hair ends, can

be turned either under or over

End Curls

86

Barrel Curl

Figure 6 Curl

Figure 8 Curl

Curl Placement

• Volume Curl

• On Base

• Slightly Off Base

• Off Base

Safety for thermal ironsSafety for thermal irons• Keep cleanKeep clean• Do not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformlyDo not overheat, this can cause the ability of the iron to hold heat uniformly• Test temperatureTest temperature• Handle thermal irons carefullyHandle thermal irons carefully• Place hot irons in a safe place to coolPlace hot irons in a safe place to cool• When heating conventional irons do not place the handles too close to the stoveWhen heating conventional irons do not place the handles too close to the stove• Make sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to avoid injuryMake sure that iron is properly balanced in the stove to avoid injury• ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________• Do not use metal combs they can burn the scalpDo not use metal combs they can burn the scalp• Place a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curlingPlace a comb between the scalp and the thermal iron when curling• The client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good resultThe client’s hair must be clean and dry to endure a good result• Do not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will cause fishhooksDo not allow the hair ends to protrude over the iron; this will cause fishhooks• ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Thermal Hair Straightening (Hair Pressing)

• ___________________________________________________________________________

• Generally lasts from shampoo to shampoo• A good hair pressing leaves the hair in a natural

and lustrous condition, and is not harmful to the hair

• There are 3 basic types of pressing: soft, medium, and hard

Hair pressing

• Soft Press: __________________________________________________________________________________________

• Medium press: removes about 60 -75% of the curl, apply pressing comb once on each side of the hair but using more pressure

• Hard press: __________________________________________________________________________________________

Hair and Scalp Analysis• Under no circumstances should hair pressing be

given to a client who has a scalp abrasion or a contagious scalp condition, or chemically damaged hair

• ____________________________________________________________________________

• If hair condition is not optimal suggest a series of reconditioning treatments prior to pressing

• A tight scalp can be made more flexible by scalp massage or brushing

Pressing Comb

• 2 basic types: regular and electric• Constructed of good quality _____________________• _________________________________________ since

wood does not readily absorb heat• A comb with more space between the teeth produces a

coarse or open looking press, while a comb with less space produces a smoother press

Tempering

• Allows the brass to hold heat evenly • You must burn off any polish the manufacturer may have

used to coat the comb, if the polish is not burned off the comb may stick to the hair causing scorching and breakage

• To temper a new comb –

• 1.heat until extremely hot • 2.coat the comb in petroleum or pressing oil • 3.let it cool naturally • 4.rinse w/ hot running water to remove oil

9696

Cleaning Pressing Comb

• Will perform more efficiently if it is kept clean• Remove the carbon by rubbing the outside surface

and between the teeth with a ____________________________________________________________________

• Then place the metal portion of the comb in a hot baking soda solution for about 1 hour; rinse and dry

Pressing oil or cream

• Pressing oil or cream make the hair:• softer • prepare and condition the hair for pressing • help prevent burning or scorching• help prevent breakage • add sheen to the hair• help hair stay pressed longer

Pressing Hints

• Avoid _________________________________• Avoid too much pressing oil –

______________________________________• Avoid perfumed pressing oil near scalp to prevent

allergies• Avoid over frequent hair pressings• Keep the comb clean at all times• Test temperature on tissue paper• Completely dry hair before pressing

Touch-ups

• Sometime necessary when the hair becomes curly again due to perspiration, dampness, or humidity

• The process is the same however you omit the shampoo

Styling long hair• Updo –

____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

• Usually requested for special occasions such as weddings, proms, and evening events

• 3 basic updos: chignon, basic French twist, classic French twist

• Backcombing and backbrushing are a must for updo styling, often times hair is set in rollers first too

• Hair should be washed and dried the ________________ the updo because freshly washed hair can be slippery and difficult to work with

Basic French Twist

Classic French Twist/ Pleat

Chingnon/ Knot