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ENVIRONMENTAL LABELLING
LCA ADEME databaseTechnical Committee: « Textile »
June 15th 2012
Olivier RéthoréADEME
Service Eco-conception & Consommation Durable (SECCD)
With Intertek RDC (Isabelle Descos, Matthieu Gillis)
Agenda
Goal, scope and database contextData aggregationFibersTextile productionUse phaseEnd of life
Goal and scope
3
Goal: to establish short term and long term needs in terms of LCI data to give specifications to Cycleco and PE in order to feed ADEME’s DB
Scope: – Apparel (PCR proposals for shirts, jeans and underwear)– Household textile– Shoes (validated PCR)
Meeting approach
For each type of textile :Analyze the inventory data need from:– The preliminary study conclusions: « Elaboration d’un plan de
développement d’une base publique de données d’ACV comme support à l’affichage »
– PCR for shirts, lingerie, jeans and shoes (even if not all yet validated)
Determine the appropriate granularity– Regarding
Technological representativeness Geographical representativeness Temporal representativeness
– Considering for each differentiation The relative environmental impact The information accessibility for the companies that put products
on the market (specific data) The short term data availability in existing databases (generic
data)
Propose a list of inventories to be integrated into ADEME database
4
5
ADEME database content
Processes
MetadataSources, contacts, external documents
Unit Reference
flow, Unitgroups
Characterization factors*
LCIA Method
Result for each impact category
X
*Common data for all suppliers (to be given by the JRC)
LCI Flows*, flow
property*,Unitgroups
6
Data sources: 3 feeding modes
Mode 1: Purchasing existing or adapted data – From databases suppliers with which the ADEME has a framework contract
– For lot 3: PE, Cycleco
Mode 2: Data co-production– In order to fill missing data in specific sectors– Projects co-funded by ADEME with research and technical partners
– Ongoing: AgriBalyse for agriculture products, ACYVIA for food industry, GIE-Solinnen for pulp & paper
Mode 3: Third party– In order to allow integrating data not yet available in existing databases
– In order to promote assessment by the industry
Impact categories
GT where textile is a need– GT4: Beauty, hygiene and health products– GT5: Apparel, household textile, and shoes– GT7: Furniture– GT10S: Sport equipment (e.g. camping material)
Impact categories
Categories for PCRs specific to textile– Common categories
Climate change (IPCC 2007) Eutrophication (Recipe 2008) Water consumption (direct flow)
– Other categories mentioned in current textile PCRs Resource depletion (EDIP 97 (2004)) (shirt, underwear,
shoes) Non renewable energy resources (in MJ) (shirt) Photochemical ozone formation (underwear) Water toxicity (underwear)
Categories for other PCRs: shoes, furniture Climate change (furniture, shoes) Resource depletion (furniture, shoes) Acidification – Recipe 2008 (furniture) Photochemical ozone formation – Recipe 2008 (furniture) Eutrophication (shoes)
Data aggregation
Different typologies exist in PCR
Data need will be defined for those two typologies along the presentation
PCRs ExamplesParameterization of
LCI datasets?
Specific to textile sector
Jean, Shirt, Underwear…
Yes
Not specific to textile sector
Shoes, Furniture, hygiene, beauty…
No
Data aggregation
At least two levels of aggregation are required– Fully aggregated for data not specific to textile sector (e.g. an inventory “cotton textile”)
Most of the parameters will be averages or most representative
A very limited number of parameters could be specific (e.g. production country)
– Not aggregated at all data specific to textile sector Decomposition of textile production in elementary processes – e.g. production of fibers, electricity consumption
These elementary processes have to be defined in PCRs as well as the parameters related to them (country, amount of electricity)
Data aggregation
Electricity consumption
Water consumption
Chemicals
kWh
m3
Textile production
Spinning
Fiber production
…
kg
Fabric manufacturing
Finishing
Confection
Material wastage
Water discharge and treatments
%
DCO, etc.
Fibers – Data need
PCR for jean, shirt and underwear– Primary data: type and mass of fibers– Semi-specific data: country of production of fibers
Fibers – Technological representativeness
Market data for textile fibers in Europe– Table representative for France?– Available market data to differentiate organic and conventional cultures?
Fibers – Technological representativeness
Cultivation/breeding– Must there be some technological differentiation in a same fiber LCI ? Such as:
Organic cultures vs. conventional (cotton, wool…)
→ see discussion in next slide Production yield For viscose, different types of origin (e.g. bamboo)
For synthetic fibers, the representativeness of polymers production will refer to conclusions of technical committee for plastics
Fibers – Geographical representativeness
What are the differences from a region to another?– Pesticides and fertilizers types, quantity and origin– Electricity mix– Water consumption
For each fiber, what geographical level to use? → national, continental or global?
If national, what countries produce fibers ultimately sold in France? (e.g. USA and China for cotton) – Are there statistics of fibers origin in textiles sold in France?
FAO gives world statistics production for natural fibers, for 2010
http://faostat.fao.org/
For synthetic fibers, the representativeness of polymers production will refer to conclusions of technical committee for plastics
Fibers – organic cultures
Since Usetox and biodiversity are not yet validated indicators, organic culture may have a bigger impact on selected indicators than conventional culture because of lower yields– Comparison not yet feasible
Ongoing & planned projects– Production of USEtox CFs for phytosanitary
products: to be launched in 2013– The Ministry of Ecology is developing its own
indicator to assess biodiversity for agriculture productions
Fibers – Databases
Différenciation technologique
Représentativité technologique
Représentativité géographique
Disponibilité dans les bases
Type de fibre
Coton conventionnel (+)
USA, China, ?BV-TEX, GaBi (USA), Ecoinvent (Chine, USA)
Coton biologique (?)
? BV-TEX
Coton OGM (?) ? /
Polyester (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE)
Polyamide (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE), Ecoinvent
Acrylique (+) ? BV-TEX
Laine (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (?), Ecoinvent
Viscose (+) ? BV-TEX, GaBi (DE), Ecoinvent
Autres (-) ?
BV-TEX : lin, chanvre, jute et lyocell
GaBi (?) : lin, chanvre et polypropylène
Ecoinvent : jute, chanvre
Matière première recyclée
? ? BV-TEX : polyester
Fibers – Co-products allocation rules
Fibers co-products are– Seed and fiber for cotton, linen…– Sulfuric acid and sodium sulfate for viscose – Meat, milk and wool from sheeps– Fruits, wood, leaves for the production of silk
Are there propositions/recommendations from the technical committee?
Accessories – Data need
PCRs requirements– Primary data
Type and mass of each material Manufacturing site (country) for jean PCR
– Semi-specific data Manufacturing site (country) for underwear and shirt PCRs
– Secondary data (→ included in inventory) Power consumption for jean Water consumption for jean Loss rate for jean
Accessories – Technological representativeness
Raw material : transversal material (see ad hoc committee)Are there specific needs for accessories in terms of – Material?– Forming process?
Spinning – Data need
Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile
For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary
Spinning/mill (natural fibers)
Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific
Electricity consumptionSecondary or Semi-specific
Wastage rate Secondary
Spinning (synthetic and artificial fibers)
Included in fibers production
Secondary
Spinning – data need
The PCRs and last GT discussions consider this step as a sum of elementary processes
Are there missing processes?Spinning may include in addition (source: preliminary study)– Gluing, Lubricant (mineral or vegetal), Surfactant non ionic, Ethylene glycoln Acid polyacrylic, PVA, Starch– Are those elements neglected on purpose? Or should they be included?– Should there be an average composition or a most representative input depending on the fiber/the type of spinning?
Parameter LCIs associated Source
Energy consumption (kWh / MJ)
Profiles for electricity mixes and heat production
See ad hoc committee
Material wastage (%)
- Overproduction of textile
- End of life of textile
- This committee (PE / Cycleco)
- See ad hoc committee
Water consumption (m³)
Direct flow /
Spinning – Technological representativeness
What is the geographic representativeness ?
Fabric manufacturing and confection – Data need
Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile
For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary
Knitting
Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific
Electricity consumptionSecondary or Semi-specific
Wastage rateSecondary or Semi-specific
Weaving
Country (energetic mix) Semi-specific
Electricity consumption Semi-specific
Wastage rate Secondary
Confection
Country (energetic mix) Primary
Electricity consumption Semi-specific
Wastage rate Semi-specific
Fabric manufacturing and confection – Data need
The PCRs and last GT discussions consider those steps as a sum of elementary processes
Are there missing processes?Weaving may include lubricantNon weaving may include polymers– Are those elements neglected on purpose? Or should they be included?– Should there be an average composition or a most representative input depending on the fiber/the type of spinning?
Parameter LCIs associated Source
Energy consumption (kWh / MJ)
Profiles for electricity mixes and heat production
See ad hoc committee
Material wastage (%)
- Overproduction of textile
- End of life of textile
- This committee (PE / Cycleco)
- See ad hoc committee
Water consumption (m³)
Direct flow /
Fabric manufacturing and confection – Technological representativeness
What is the geographic representativeness ?
Finishing – Data need
Last GT5 discussion for PCRs specific to textile
For other PCRs: all data are a priori secondary
Finishing Reflection ongoing
Finishing – Data definition
Finishing processes may take place after every step of textile production (fiber, yarn, and fabric)The way to address finishing is not fixed yet in PCRsFinishing can be considered in different ways– Sum of elementary processes (e.g. electricity consumption, chemicals…)– Average inventories per type of finishing (e.g. one inventory “printing”)– And intermediate situations
Finishing – Data definition
Electricity consumption
Water consumption
Chemicals
kWh
m3
Finishing
Dyeing
Printing
…
kg
Bleaching
Drying
Coating
Material wastage
Water discharge and treatments
%
DCO, etc.
Textile production – Finishing
Finishing
Electricity consumption
Water consumption
Chemicals
X kWh
X liters
Finishing
Dyeing
Printing
…
1
1
Sum of elementary processes
Sum of average inventories
FinishingElectricity consumption
Water consumption
Chemicals
X kWh
X litersIntermediate situation
Printing without electricity, water, chemicals
X kg
1
X kg
Dyeing without electricity, water, chemicals
1
…
…
Textile production – Technological representativeness
Textile production – Technological representativeness
Textile production – Geographic representativeness
What is the geographic representativeness ?
Textile production – Finishing – Chemicals
What granularity for chemicals regarding the production phase and the discharge in water?– Global (one inventory “chemicals for textile finishing”)– By family (e.g. inventory for “dyeing agents”)– By chemical (e.g. “chromium complex azoic dyestuff”)
Geographical representativeness: global (proposal)
Textile production – Finishing – Wastewater treatment
→ To be discussed by a specific Technical Committee on WWTP (end of year 2012)In short termThe database does not allow to have a dynamic model
for WWTP depending on wastewater composition → A finite quantity of inventories is requiredProposal
– Functional unit: 1 m³ of water treated and related to the data “water consumption”– Several level of water treatment depending on
The typology of input water (e.g. water from finishing, water from dyeing…)
The quality of the treatment plant (e.g. no WWTP, average quality, BAT quality…)
– How many levels to choose and how to characterize them?
Textile production – Databases
Aggregated data for non specific sectors
ProposalTwo types of inventories– Cradle-to-gate for fabric production (without finishing processes)
Example: “cotton, weaved, Italy” If there is a mix of fibers in a fabric (e.g. 80% cotton, 20% acrylic), is it a good approach to sum the two basic processes (0.8 * “cotton, weaved, Italy” + 0.2 * “acrylic, weaved, Italy”)
– Gate-to-gate for finishing because it can take place or not at any step
Example: “dyeing”
Aggregated data for non specific sectors
ProposalStepsDifferentiated parameters
Averaged parameters
Technological representativeness
Geographical representativeness
Fibers production
Type of fiberAll other parameters
Should the production country be connected with fabric production country?
Spinning /All parameters
Must the yarn production depend on the fiber?
As above
Fabric production
Type of manufacturing:-Weaving-Knitting-Non weaving
Country
All other parameters
Must the fabric production depend on the fiber?
Finishing
Type of finishing:-Fibers preparation-Dyeing-Fabric printing-Fabric coating-Fabric dressing (apprêtage)
All other parameters
Must dyeing be differentiated for each step (fiber, yarn, fabric)?Must each process be differentiated for each type of fiber?
As above
Use phase – Data need
PCR for jean– Primary data
Label of utilization advices
– Semi-specific data Heat of temperature Drying in machine Ironing
– Secondary data Energy consumption and water consumption for above steps
Type and quantity washing products
Use phase – Data need
Must the production and end-of-life of the machine be included in the scope?Database will include one generic inventory for washing products– Market share (AFISE, 2010)
Powder: 20 % Liquid: 52 % Concentrated liquid: 4 % Other: 24 %
– Product composition: on Cleanright website (http://uk.cleanright.eu/)
Textile end of life – scenario
PCR for lingerie and shoes: household waste (i.e. incineration and landfill – cf. ad hoc committee)PCR for jean: most recent data from EcoTLC– Taux de collecte sélective : 18%
Taux de réemploi après collecte : 58% Taux de recyclage après collecte : 22% Taux d’élimination après collecte : 20%
– Taux d’élimination : 82% Taux d’incinération avec valorisation énergétique : 43,6% Taux d’incinération sans valorisation énergétique : 2.3% Taux d’enfouissement : 54,2%
Lingerie and jean not coherent
Textile end of life – scenario
Incineration and landfill – see ad hoc committeeReuse– Extension of lifetimeIs reuse taken into account in the proposals made for life time?– Recycling approach (credits for avoiding virgin material)
Recycling (see next slide)
Textile end of life – recycling allocation
What allocation rule for textile recycling?– It should be determined in an economic studyPCR for jean is not specific
– 0-100 by default– 100-0 if the industrial has a traceability system to justify he
uses recycled textiles– This rule leads to double counting
What differentiations for textile recycling processes?– Type of fiber– Outlet– Country– …
What are the avoided material application? (e.g. fiber, yarn, textile, rag…)
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