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SESSION:- 2013-2014
{DIPLOMA IN FASHION DESIGNING ANDGARMENT TECHNOLOGY}
TRAINING REPORT
ON
APPAREL INDUSTRY & PRODUCTION MANAGMENT
Under Supervision of: Submitted by:
Mr. DINESH KUMAR GAUTAM NISHOO DEVI
Principal
Mr. PREM CHANDRA VERMA
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGNING AND GARMENTTECHNOLOGY
GOVT. GIRLS POLYTECHNIC VARANASI
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COMMENTS
PRINCIPAL:
........................................................................................................
HEAD OF DEPARTMENT:
................................................................
EXAMINAR:......................................................................................................
PROJECT GUIDE:
........................................................................................
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Dyeing is done on the fabric to decorate it. Dyeing is done
through different methods; exhaust & silicate padding
method. Colouration of textile materials involves the use of
dyes and figments of various classes. Which are applied to
the materials bessentially different techniques of dyeing and
printing? The main objective in dyeing is the uniform
colouration of the entire fabric with a primary, secondary
and tertiar colour with the production of the same shade on
thousands of meters of the fabric with out any change either
in tone orin depth and adequate penetration of the distills
inside the yarns and fibers present in the fabric. This is
usually achieved by moving the material in a stationary
dyestuff solution with or without a subsequent squeezing so
as to facilitate the penetration of the dyestuff solution
through a tightly or uniformly packed stationary material at
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ativospheric or elevated pressures or by moving a material
in the circulating dye stuff solution. This process is done by
figger, jet and which dyeing machine in large sale and by
piece dyeing method in small scales.
Dyes Used For Dyeing
Direct Dyes Direct Dyes Remazoles Dyes Procion Dyes
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Direct Dyes:
The direct dyes also known as substantive colours,
differ from the basic and acid dyes because they are
strongly substantive towards cellulosic fibers.
Method:
Dyes are addac according to the weight of the fabric in
the water wet fabric and put it into the dyestuff solution
in which (20 ml.) common salt is
added then stir for 30 minute at the temp. Of 60 degree
centigrade. After that first wash is done with not water
for 2-3 times. Acetic acid is mixed with cold water for
neutralization. After proper neutralization fabric is
washed with soap for 5 to 6 times at times at the temp.
Of 60 degree centigrade washing is done till water
becomes clear.
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Properties of Direct Dye:
Poor washing or drubbing fastnessPoor light (sun) fastnessIncrease of temperature decreases the amount of
dye absorbed by the fabric
Mild alkali adversely effect upon the rate of dyeabsorption.
Non-dischargeable dye.Poor curability of dyed fabric.
Colours of Direct Dyes:
Yellow 5 GLLChange TGLLB1ueGLBlackBTBlackE
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SkyBlue6BSScarlet4BSBrownMROrange T4RLOliveGGRed5B
Remazoles Dyes: -
Remazoles dyes are used for both dyeing and printing
process. In silicate podding method remazole give the
excellent fastness. These dyes are fully dischargeable
Remazole dyes are used on cotton, rayon or viscose fabrics.
Fabric should be wet and then only should he put into the
dyestuff solution in which 20 nil. Common salt is added then
still for 30 minutes at the teinp. Of 60 degree ceriligrade.
After 30 minutes, small amount of soda ash is deluded two
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the solution and mixed well; keep it over heat for 45 minutes
at the temp. Of 60 degree centigrade. After the first wash is
given with cold water for 23 times. Acetic acid is another
beaker containing cold watch. Add the washed fabric in to. it
for final neutralization. After neutralization wash the fabric
with soap for 5-6 times at the temp. of 60 degree centigrade
to remove all the craces of acetic acid.
Properties of Remazoles Dye:-
Remazoles dyes are used for cotton, Rayon or viscose
fabrics.
These dyes are fully dischargeable.
Rubbing and washing is tine & good.
Rernazoles dyes are used under 60 degree centigi-ade temp.
Colours B
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Golden Yellow RYellow GR
Blue 3R
Brown GR
Yellow RTn
Triquesh Blue G
Red 5B
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Cold Brand- CM. Brand: - In cold Brand dyes, process of
dyeing the fabric is same as hot brand cyeing process. The
main difference between both the two processes that in cold
brand process temp. Of dyestuff solution more checked
below 40 degree centigrade temp.
Properties of procion dyes:
Procion dyes are bright in colour
Rubbing fastness is good as compared to direct dyes.
Stone colours of hot Brand are also used for printing.
Some hot brand colours are dischargeable.
Mostly all colours of cold brand CM brand are non
dischargeable.
These dyes are used for cotton and rayon (Viscose)
fabric. (C.I-I.B. & C.B.)
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Cold brand colours in dyed in normal room temp. suchas 40 degree centigrade
(Soap & salt).
Hct brand colours are dyed under 80 degree centigrade
temp. while soda is
Added.
Mostly hot brand are having very good washing &
Rubbing fastness.
Procion dyes are generally used for exhaust
method.
Red 58
Violet SR
BlackRL
Yellow 3G
Red C2G
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Procion Dyes: - Procion dyes are to lypesHot Brand (H.. Brand)
Cold Brand (M. Brand)
Procion dyes are used for cotton and Reyon (Viscose)
fabrics. Procion dyes are generally used with exhaust
method.
Hot Brand (H. Brand):-
It hot brand ray on fabric is dip in the dyestuff solution and
20 ml Common salt add at the 55-60 degree centigrade
temp. And stir for 30 minute. After 30 minute 10 ml..Soda
ash is mixed in the dyestuff solution at the 75 80 degree
centigrade temp. And stir well for 45 minutes. After this
Process wash the fabric and neutralize it by treating with
acetic acid and then finally wash with soap solution for 5-6
times, washing May continuous till the water becomes clear.
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Colours of Procion Dyes:
Cold Brand Colours:
Red M5RRed M8BYellow M4GGolden Yellow MRYellow M4ROrange M2RMagenta MBViolet MLRViolet MLBViolet MLBTriquesh Blue MGNBlue MRBlue M4R
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Blue M3RBlue M4R
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Dyeing on Large Scale:
These are different types of machines by which one can dye
a fabric in large quantity
Jigger Dyeing Machine Winch Dyeing Machine Jet Dyeing Machine Cold padding Machine
Jigger Dyeing Machine: -
Jigger dyeing is done under tension. There are three types of
Jigger M/C:
Jumbo Jigger rn/c Normal Jigger rn/c Small Baby Jigger rn/c
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In Jumbo Jigger rn/c, 2500-3000 rnt. of fabric can be dyed. In
Normal Jigger rn/c 500-2000 mt. of fabric can be dyed.
In Small Baby Jigger rn/c is also known as sampling rn/c
400-500 mt. of fabriccan be dyed.
All kinds of fabric can be dyed except the textured fabric for
e.g.:- crepe, velvets.
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Method of Dyeing:
Colour is added according to the weight of the fabric. The
capacity of
water tank varies front 500 liter to 1500 liter. Fabric is
loaded on roll if jigger
to the second roll. The fabric is loaded on roll of roll to
another. The fabric is dyed under tension by roll-to-roll. I
round of fabric from one rolls to another
takes 3 5-40 minutes approximately. Jet Dyeing Machine: -
Dyeing in jet m/c is done under high pressure and high
temp. in this rn/c these fabric are dyed which can be dyed in
the rope from for e.g..:- The fabric having fall. i.e., crepe, net
georgette, shiffon, etc.
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In this rn/c dyeing is done through high pressure, the colour
penetration in the fabric done through high pressure. Light
weight fabrics are used to dyed in this machine. The capacity
of rn/c varies 60kg to 5 00kg approximately.
Winch Dyeing Machine: -
Dyeing in which dyeing machine is done in the rope. Cotton
and viscose fabric are dyed through winch rn/c fabric like
gcor get, crepe etc. can he dyed on winch dyeing.
M/c, water garaged capacity is more than jiggers capacity,
therefore this rn/c requires more colours as compared to
other machines.
Cold Padding Dycing Machine:
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It cold padding dyeing rn/c cold water is used which carries
the colour and a well as silicate is used fix the dyestuff in the
fabric which gives us
the good washing and rubbing fastness in this process, dry
fabric is dipped in the colour tank of rn/c containing dour
and silicate, and press cal through the
two ftibber rollers and patches in water on the moving rn/c
for the best result,
dyed fabric should be washed after 12 hours. Fabric should
be properly covered with poluthene.
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Introduction to Printing:
The printing is used to coloure pattern or designs on textile
materials other than woven, embroidered or paint designs.
The material can be of colton, wool, silk, jute. Rayon or any
synthetic fiber or its blend. It is probably the cheapest
method of ornamenting textile materials and is ver popular
because of beautiful effects produced by it. In printing
process we viii apply the coating of colour on fabric. This
coating or colour film will make up by
mixing of some chemicals and also dyestuff after washing
the extra dyestuff & chemicals will remove out the lime of
washing and some chemicals will
extract at the time of steaming or high temp. After will get
the printed colour fabric.
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50% - High Gum AGRY (cooked)
10% - Rongalite C
6% - Soda ash
1/2% - Oil Dhara
335% - water
100
Notes - High Gum is ashesive
Pongalde C (Sodium Suiphoxylate Formaldehyde) is
disclaiming agent Soda ash is fixing agent & oil Shara is
thickener
Discharge printing is done on hot wax table Discharge print
is obtained the ground shade and produces a white dichasia
It dyes stable to the discharging agent are incarnated in the
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discharge paste, then coloured discharged produced by
simultaneously destroying the ground shade and fixing the
produced by simultaneously destroying the ground shade
and fixing the stable illuminating colour Thus in discharge
printing, the whole cloth is first dyed fully and then printing
with a paste containing a chemical discharging agent
Capable of attacking the bye locally the printing cloth is then
furner treated (steament, washed ete) so that finally ii shows
a white or light pattern on a coloured background
Alternatively a second dye resistant to the discharging can
be incorporated in the paste and the cloth printed with the
yielding a two colour pattern which would almost
impossible by a double printing of completer patterns.
A great advantage of discharge style of printing is that it
allows of white and coloured patterns being produced on
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dyed grounds. By dyeing we can obtain depth o shade and
fullness and brightness of colour unapproachable by any
process of printing. It is, therefore, of great advantage to be
able to print upon dyed cloth, a substance which will destroy
the colour dyed cloth, a
substance which will destry the colour from printed parts.
The main limitation of this style is that only those colours,
which can be dischargeable.
After printing the fabric is steamed on 20-25% for 20-30
pound fabric. After steaming, cold washing of fabric is done
with 0.25% H202, after this Washing with hot water (40
degree centigrade temp), after this again washing in cold
water with
acetic acid after this rinsed & dried the fabric.
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Colour of Discharge Printing:
Brown RRDViolet2RRedVioletRENNevy Blue 4 GSTrequesh Blue 4EGolden Yellow G ckLemon Yellow CCLPinkRPink3BOrange3BGreen FEBScarlet GENBlackBG
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Pigment Printing
For Paste- (Recipe):
10% - Binder SLN
1% - Emulsifer
% - Water
83.5% - M.T. Oil (Kerosene oil)
% - Dap
3% - Urea
1.5% - Fixer CCL
100
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In this process, a binder emulsion (usually 20%) is first
prepared and is mixed with pigment dispersion; this paste is
used for printing.
Printing Recipe:
5% - Acramin Pigment dispersion
95% - Binder Emulsions & Fixer CCL
100
Pigment printing is done on cold table, in this printing
process the fabric is stretched on table by the help of pins, in
this process a hinder emulsion is first prepared and mixed
with pigment dispersion. If more binder is required ii call be
added to above paste. After printing the fabric is dried at 9 0-
100 degree centigrade till free from keosene and then cured
in a curing chamber at 120 degree centigrade for 5 minutes.
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It is then rinsed, soaped with lissapol D. (1 gm. /1) and soda
ash at boil for V2 hour, rinsed end dried.
The many advantages of pigment printing this ate
High production of prints due to elimination of variousafter-treatments.
Better visibility of the prints which eliminates printingfaults.
Greater degree of certainty as regards colour matching.High fastness to light.Advisability of complex range of colour.There is certain disadvantages o pigment printingPoor rubbing fastness.Large quantity of kerosene is required for printing. This
causes obnoxious fumes during curing which pollute the
atmosphere and infringe solution regulations.
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Printed Portion is gives harsh feeling on the surface ofthe fabric.
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Procion Printing For Paste- (Recipe):
3% - Sodium Alginate gum
3% - Resist Salt
3% - Sodium Bi-Carbonate
1.5% - Sodium hexa Meta phosphate
89.5% - Water
100
Printing Recipe:
5% - Dye
95% - Paste
100
Procion supra and cibacron Pront dyes are the another name
the reactive dye. Procion supra dyes were introduced by ICI
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in 1967; with these dyes. The reaction occurs bat high
temperature (180 degree centigrade) in the presence of
alkali so that the dye preferentially reacts with the fiber and
fixes more dyes on it with the result the less dye has to be
removed during washing off.
Procion printing is done on hot wax table. After printing the
fabric is steamed on 2 0-30% for 30 pound fabric. After
steaming cold washing of fabric is done 3 time, rinsed,
soaped with a detergent (Liquid soap) at boil water 70
degree centigrade & again cold washing with Acetic acid,
rinsed again& dried.
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