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Sahu et al. World Journal of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences
A PEER REVIEW ON HERBAL COSMETICS AND SKIN CARE
Prerana Sahu1*
and Dr. Rajesh Kumar Nema
2
1Rungta Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Bhilai.
2Rungta Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Bhilai.
ABSTRACT
Herbal cosmetic also known as “natural cosmetics”. With the
beginning of the civilization, mankind had the magnetic dip towards
impressing others with their looks. At the time, there were no fancy
fairness creams or any cosmetic surgeries. The only thing they had was
the knowledge of nature, compiled in the Ayurveda. With the science
of Ayurveda, several herbs and floras were used to make ayurvedic
cosmetics that really worked. Ayurvedic cosmetics not only beautified
the skin but acted as the shield against any kind of external affects for
the body. Ayurvedic cosmetics also known as the herbal cosmetics
have the same estimable assets in the modern era as well. There is a
wide gamut of the herbal cosmetics that are manufactured and commonly used for daily
purposes. Herbal cosmetics like herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal soaps, herbal
shampoo, and many more are highly acclaimed by the masses. The best thing of the herbal
cosmetics is that it is purely made by the herbs and shrubs. The natural content in the herbs
does not have any side effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with nutrients and
other useful minerals. Herbal cosmetics are comprised of floras like ashwagandha, sandal
(chandan), saffron (kesar) and many more that is augmented with healthy nutrient sand all the
other necessary components.
KEYWORDS: Herbal cosmetics; Dandruff, Skin care; Acne.
1. INTRODUCTION
The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word “kosm tikos” meaning having the
power, arrange and skill in decorating. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous narrative
throughout the history of man as they developed. The man in prehistoric times 3000 BC used
colours for decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt and also the man survived
WORLD JOURNAL OF PHARMACY AND PHARMACEUTICAL SCIENCES
SJIF Impact Factor 7.632
Volume 10, Issue 7, 405-420 Review Article ISSN 2278 – 4357
*Corresponding Author
Prerana Sahu
Rungta Institute of
Pharmaceutical Sciences,
Bhilai.
Article Received on
22 April 2021,
Revised on 12 May 2021,
Accepted on 02 June 2021
DOI: 10.20959/wjpps20217-19256
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attack from the enemy by colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to provoke
fear in an enemy.[1]
The term Cosmeceuticals was first used by Raymond Reed founding
member of US Society of Cosmetics Chemist in 1961. He actually used the word to brief the
active and science-based cosmetics. The above term was further used by Dr. Albert Kligman
in the year 1984 to refer the substances that have both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits.
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic pharmaceutical hybrids intended to enhance health and beauty
through ingredients that influence the skin's biological texture and function.[2]
The cosmetics,
according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as articles intended to be rubbed,
poured, sprinkled or sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the human body or
any part for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance. The
increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market.
The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and essential oils used in cosmetics must not
claim to penetrate beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any therapeutic
effect.[3]
Herbal cosmetics is defined as the beauty products, which possess desirable physiological
activities, such as skin healing, smoothening, appearance, enhancing and conditioning
properties with the help of herbal ingredients. These are the cosmetics which are prepared
using plant products having cosmetic actions. Recently the use of botanicals in cosmetics has
increased mainly due to the mild action and non-toxic nature. In cosmetics both natural and
phyto-ingredients are used.[4]
Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto-
ingredients include pure constituents obtained by various processes. Herbal cosmetics are
formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients to form the base in which one or
more herbal ingredients are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only. They are purely
made of herbs and shrubs.[5]
The natural content in the herbs does not have any reactions on
the human body; rather enhance the body with, supplements and other helpful minerals.
Herbal cosmetics are comprised of floras like saffron (kesar), ashwagandha, sandal (chandan)
and numerous increasingly that is expanded with healthy nutrients and all the various
essential components. It is evaluated that roughly 400 flavours are utilized far and wide,
although only about 70 spices are officially recognized. Herbs have variety of function such
as food flavourings, cosmetics and medicine in the forms of tea, tablet, capsule, tincture,
cream, syrup and liquid.[6]
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Herbal medicines include herbs, herbal materials, herbal preparations and finished herbal
products. In some countries herbal medicines may contain, by tradition, natural organic or
inorganic active ingredients that are not of plant origin (e.g. animal and mineral materials).
Herbs include crude plant material, such as leaves, flowers, fruit, seeds, stems, wood, bark,
roots, rhizomes or other plant parts, which may be entire, fragmented or powdered. Herbal
materials include, in addition to herbs, fresh juices, gums, fixed oils, essential oils, resins and
dry powders of herbs.[7]
In some countries, these materials may be processed by various local
procedures, such as steaming, roasting or stir-baking with honey, alcoholic beverages or other
materials. Herbal preparations are the basis for finished herbal, products and may include
comminute or powdered herbal materials, or extracts, tinctures and fatty oils of herbal
materials. They are produced by extraction, fractionation, purification, concentration, or other
physical or biological processes. They also include preparations made by steeping or heating
herbal materials in alcoholic beverages and/or honey, or in other materials. Finished herbal
products consist of herbal preparations made from one or more herbs. If more than one herb
is used, the term “mixture herbal product” can also be used.[8]
Finished herbal products and
mixture herbal products may contain excipients in addition to the active ingredients.
However, finished products or mixture herbal products to which chemically defined active
substances have been added, including synthetic compounds and/or isolated constituents from
herbal materials, are not considered to be herbal.[9]
Herbs are considered to be food rather than medicine because they're complete, all-natural
and pure, as nature intended. When herbs are taken, the body starts to get cleansed, it gets
purifying itself. Unlike chemically synthesized, highly concentrated drugs that may produce
many side effects, herbs can effectively realign the body's defence. Herbs do not produce
instant cures, but rather offer a way to put the body in proper tune with nature for thousands
of years, humans have used herbs. Herbs have been used in the following ways - In cooking
for flavouring foods, as perfumes, as disinfectants, to protect us against germs, as medicines
to heal when we are sick.[10]
1.1 Advantages of Herbal cosmetics[11]
i. They do not provoke allergic reactions and do not have negative side effects.
ii. They are easily incorporated with skin and hair.
iii. With small quantity they are very effective as compared to synthetic cosmetics.
iv. Easily available and found in large variety and quantity.
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v. Extracts of plants decreases the bulk property of cosmetics and gives appropriate
pharmacological effects.
vi. Easy to manufacture and cheap in cost.
1.2 Disadvantages of Herbal cosmetic[12]
i. They are difficult to hide taste and odour.
ii. No pharmacopoeia defines any specific procedure or ingredients to be used in any of
herbal cosmetics.
1.3 Categories of Herbal cosmetics[13]
The herbal cosmetics can be grouped into following categories:
1. For enhancing the appearance of the facial skin
2. For hair growth and care
3. For skin care (acne, pimples, sustaining)
4. Shampoos, soap, powders and perfumery etc
5. Miscellaneous products
1.4 Herbal cosmetics can be classified on the basis of[14]
I. Dosage form
II. Part of the body to be applied
I. Dosage form[15]
a. Emulsion: Cold cream, vanishing cream
b. Powders: Face powder, Talcum powder, Tooth powder
c. Cakes: Rouge compacts, makeup cake
d. Oils: Hair oils
e. Mucilage: Hand lotion
f. Jellies: Hand jelly, wave set jelly, brilliantine jelly
g. Suspension: Cosmetic stockings
h. Paste: Tooth paste, deodorant paste
i. Soaps: Shampoo soap, shaving soap, toilet soap
II. Parts of the body to be applied at[16]
a. Herbal cosmetics for skin: Powders, Creams, Lotions, Deodorants, Bath and cleansing
products, Makeup preparations and suntan preparations
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b. Herbal Cosmetics for hairs: Shampoos, Tonics, Hair dressing, Hair waving preparations,
Beard softeners, Shaving media, Depilatories
Table 1.1: List of plants with cosmetic application.[17]
Scientific Name Common
Name
Part
Uses Uses
Avena sativa (Gramineae) Oat Fruit Skin tonic
Acarus calamus (Araceae) Sweet flag Rhizome Dusting powder, skin lotion
Centela aceatica (Apiaceae) Brahmi Plant Wound healing, reduce
stretch mark
Mesua ferrea (Guttiferae) Cobras saffron Flower Astringent
Calendula officinalis
(Compositae) Marigold Flower
Antiseptic cream, Anti-
inflammatory
Panax gingseng (Araliaceae) Gingseng Root Stimulant blood flow to skin
Zingiber zerumbet
(Zingiberaceae) Zamabad Rhizome Skin care
Table 1.2: Skin Types and their Care.[18]
Skin Type Features Herbal Plants Essential Oils
Normal
Has even tone, soft,
smooth texture, no visible
pores or blemishes and no
greasy patches or flaky
areas
Pomegranate leaves
juice, Herbal face
pack, Gingili oil
Chamomile, Fennel,
Geranium, Lavender,
Rose, Sandal wood,
Patchouli
Dry
Low level of sebum and
prone to sensitivity. Has a
parched look, feels tight.
Chapping and cracking are
signs of extremely dry,
dehydrated skin.
Aloe vera, Olive oil,
Calendula Comfrey
Chamomile, Fennel,
Geranium, Lavender,
Lemon rose,
Sandalwood
Patchouli, Almond,
Avacado
Oily
Shiny, thick and dull
coloured chronically oily
skin has coarse pores and
pimples and other
embarrassing blemishes.
Prone to black heads
Alovera, Burdock
root chamomile
horsetail, Oat starw,
Thyme, Lavender,
Lemon Grass,
Liquorice, Rose
Buds, Witch Hazel
Bergamot, Cypress
Frankincense
Geranium, Juniper,
Lavender, Lemon,
Sage Evening
Primrose
Combination
Some parts of your face are
dry or flaky, while the
center part of your face,
nose, chin and forehead
(called the T-zone) is oily.
Witch Hazel,
Menthol, Aloe vera,
Turmeric, Wheat
Germ, Sweet Flag
Citrus oils, Jasmine
Oil, Sandal wood oil
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Table 1.3: Special Skin Problems and Herbal Remedies.[19]
S.No. Skin Problem Features Remedies
1 Chapped skin Rough texture which sometimes
causes the skin to crack
Application of oils of Olive oil or mashed
avocado after bathing or massaging with
warm olive oil, mustard or coconut oil
half an hour before bathing.
2 Withered Skin Very tough texture, full of wrinkles Carrot juice along with a mixture of egg
white and honey.
3 Sallow skin No color look, skin becomes
lustureless and shows lack of vitality Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet.
4 Sensitive Skin
Sunburns and wind burns occur
easily. Skins become dry delicate
and prone to allergic reactions.
Use of essential oil of Chamomile,
Lavender Neroli, Rose and Sandal wood
oil.
5 Acne Pockets of infection that manifest as
red sores, boils and pimples. Usage of Red Sanda Wood Oil.
1.5 Indian Extracts for Herbal Cosmetics
Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem imes, when the damaging effects of food
processing and overmedication have assumed alarming proportions. They are now being
increasingly cosmetics, foods and teas, as well as alternative medicines. The growing interest
in herbs is a part of the movement towards change in life-styles. This movement is based on
the belief that the plants have a vast potential for their use as a curative medicine.[20]
1.5.1 Oat (Avena sativa)
It is a species of cereal grain grown for its seed, which is known by the same name (usually in
the plural, unlike other grains). Oats are not only consumed for nutritional purposes but are
also recognized as possessing healing and soothing properties. The gentle process used to
extract oat oil from the whole oat kernels ensures that the biological value remains unaltered.
Oat oil is rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids and natural emollients. Oat oil is used in
many lotions, creams, facial oils, salves and balms since its properties add unique benefits.[21]
Fig 1.1: Avena Sativa.
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1.5.2 Marigold (Calendula officinalis)
Calendula officinalis is a plant known as pot marigold. It should not be confused with other
types of plants more commonly known as marigold, such as those in the genus Tagetes.[22]
A
number of ingredients used in cosmetics and personal care products are made from Calendula
officinalis, including an extract of the whole plant (Calendula officinalis Extract) the flowers,
flower extract and flower oil (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract, Calendula officinalis
Flower Oil) and the seed oil (Calendula officinalis Seed Oil). Of the Calendula-derived
ingredients, the flower extracts are the most commonly used in cosmetics and personal care
products.[23]
Fig. 1.2: Calendula officinalis.
1.5.3 Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus serotina Bark)
Wild cherry bark is the bark of Prunus serotina. Wild Cherry Bark has properties that makes
the hair smooth, silky, and adds body to the hair. The dried stem bark of Prunus serotina,
collected in autumn in North America. Used in lipsticks and cherry flavorings for food and
medicines. Also used as a sedative and expectorant medicinally.[24]
Fig. 1.3: Wild Cherry Bank.
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1.5.4 Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
Chicory, Cichorium intybus, is somewhat woody, perennial herbaceous plant usually with
bright blue flowers, rarely white or pink. It was believed that the plant could purify the blood
and liver, while others have relied on the herb for its power to cure passions of the heart.
Chicory continues to be a popular herbal remedy due to its healing effects on several
ailments25
. Chicory is taken internally for loss of appetite, jaundice, gallstones, gout and
rheumatism. In addition, the leaves of chicory may also be used as compresses to be applied
externally to ease skin inflammations and swellings. As a mild diuretic, it increases the
elimination of fluid from the body, leading to its use as a treatment for rheumatism and gout.
The root and the leaves are appetizer, cholagogue, depurative, digestive, diuretic,
hypoglycaemic, laxative and tonic. It favors blood circulation by making blood more fluid
and allowing it a better travel through vein and arteries.[26]
Fig. 1.4: Cichorium intybus.
1.5.5 Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)
Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing
herb was instrumental in its "sacred" implication.[27]
Fig. 1.5: Ocimum sanctum.
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1.5.6 Ghritkumar (Aloe vera)
It is a most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent coagulating agent, a pain
inhibitor and a growth stimulator (also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to
accelerate the healing of injured surfaces. It is used for pain relief and healing of
'hemorrhoids, applied externally and internally it‟s also used for sunburn, scratch and a
cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing new tissue and alleviating the
advance of skin cancer caused by the sun.[28]
Fig. 1.6: Ghritkumari.
1.5.7 Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth)
It is Mother Nature's own baby powder. Clay was one of the earliest substances to be used as
a beauty mask to draw oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth, gums and hair,
To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn, helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes
and dirt.[29]
Fig 1.7: Fullers earth.
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1.5.8 Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
Matricaria chamomilla, known as scented mayweed or German chamomile (also spelled
camomile), is an annual plant of the composite family Asteraceae. Chamomile is also used
cosmetically, primarily to make a rinse for blonde hair and as a yellow dye for fabrics.[30]
Fig 1.8: Chamomile.
1.5.9 Aloe vera
With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of cells this was used as an essential
component to keep oneself fit, protect the skin, prevents and heals skin irritations.[31]
1.6 Medicinal Herbs used in Cosmetics
The medicinal herb mentioned in ayurveda by experienced sages basically state that the
function of ayurvedic herbs is to purify blood and eliminate vitiated doshas (vata, pitta,
kapha) from the body as they are mainly responsible for skin disorders and other diseases.
Among the written information on ayurveda like in Charakh Samhita, the sage Charakh stated
numerous medicinal plants in Varnya Kashaya. The herbs mentioned can be used to obtain
glowing complexion.[32]
Various herbs for which description and usage can be found in
ayurvedic inscriptions are chandana, Nagkeshara, Padmak, Khus, Yashtimadhu, Manjistha,
Sariva, Payasya, Seta (shweta durva), Lata (shyama durva). There is also the mention of
various herbs from Kushthagna Mahakashaya that are effective curatives for skin disorders
are Khadira, Abhaya, Amalaki, Haridra, Bhallataka, Saptaparna, Aragvadha, Karavira,
Vidanga, Jati. Like the notifications of charakh and other sages, Sushrut said that Eladi Gana
contains: Ela, tagar, kusstha, jatamansi, tvak, dhmamaka, patra, nagkeshar, priyangu,
harenuka, vyaghranakha, shukti, stouneyaka, choraka, shriveshta, khus, goggol, sarjarasa,
turushka, kundaru, agaru, ushira, devdaru, keshara, and padmakeshara.[33]
All these herbs can
eliminate toxins from the body, clear the complexion that leads to a glow on the skin and
alleviates puritus, kusstha and boils.[34]
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Herbal products in cosmetics or herb in cosmetics can also be referred as botanical origin
products in cosmetics. According to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940 cosmetics may be
defined as, any substance intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to
human being for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness.[35]
Cosmeceuticals are the
cosmetic products which contain biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin
having effect on user or they are combination product of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals
intended to enhance the health and beauty of skin. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty
products which possess desirable physiological activity such as healing, smoothing
appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties because of herbal ingredient.[36]
1.6 DRY SKIN TREATMENT
1.6.1 Coconut oil
Coconut oil comes from the fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera, family
Arecaceae. The melting point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76°F) and thus it can be used
easily in both liquid and solid forms and is often used in cooking and baking37
. Coconut oil is
excellent as a skin moisturizer and softener. A study shows that extra virgin coconut oil is
effective and safe when used as a moisturizer, with absence of adverse reactions. A study
found that coconut oil helped prevent protein loss from the wet combing of hair when used
for fourteen hours.[38]
1.6.2 Sunflower Oil
It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds obtained from Helianthus annuus,
family Asteraceae. Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. In
cosmetics, it has smoothing properties and is considered noncomedogenic.[39]
1.6.3 Aloe
A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has fleshy spiny-toothed leaves and red or
yellow flowers 60. It is an ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals moisturizes and
softens skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to easily extract the soothing gel.[40]
1.7 ANTI-AGING TREATMENT
1.7.1 Golden Root
Rhodiola rosea (Roseroot, Aaron's rod), is a plant in the Crassulaceae family that grows in
cold regions of the world. The Rhodiola root has long been used in the traditional medical
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systems in Europe and Asia to increase an organism‟s resistance to physicalstress, currently;
it is widely thought to have antioxidative properties.[41]
1.7.2 Carrot
It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae. It is a valuable herb
since ages as it is rich natural source of Vitamin A along with other essential vitamins. Carrot
seed oil is indicated for anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating. As it promotes the
formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles. It acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator
for the skin.[42]
1.7.8 Ginkgo
Ginkgo comes from the ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs to family Ginkgoaceae, which
grows to a huge size. It is best known, as a circulatory tonic, in particular for strengthening
the tiny little capillaries to all the organs, but especially to the brain.[43]
The capillaries
become more flexible and as a result more oxygen is delivered to the brain and eyes (to
protect against degenerative eye diseases like macular degeneration), so important as we age.
Ginkgo also protects the nervous system and fights oxidation.[44]
1.8 Dandruff Treatment
Ayurved has numerous natural medications wherein the most common herbs include Neem,
Kapoor (naphthalene), and Henna, Hirda, Behada, and Amalaki, Magic nut, Bringaraj,
Rosary Pea, Sweet Flag, Cashmere tree and Mando.[45]
1.8.1 Henna
Henna comes from the plant, Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae, which contain a dye
molecule called Lawsone, which when processed becomes Henna powder. Henna has a
natural affinity with the proteins in our hair, making it able to “stain” the colour onto the hair
shaft.[46]
1.9 SKIN PROTECTION
1.9.1 Green Tea
Green tea is tea made solely with the leaves of Camellia sinensis belonging to family
Theaceae .Whether applied topically or consumed as a beverage or dietary supplement, green
tea is a premiere skin protectant. It protects against direct damage to the cell and moderates
inflammation, according to research from the Department of Dermatology, Columbia
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University, New York. Studies suggest that the catechins in green tea are some 20 times
stronger in their antioxidant powers than even vitamin E. Men, women and children need to
position this super shield on their side against the ravaging effects of the sun.[47]
1.9.2 Turmeric
Turmeric, Curcuma longa is a rhizomatous herbacessential oilsus perennial plant of the
ginger family Zingiberaceae Turmeric is used in many celebrations of Hindus 70. Especially
in Hindu wedding brides would rub with turmeric on their bodies for glowing look. New born
babies also rubbed with turmeric on their forehead for good luck. Traditionally women rub
turmeric on their cheeks to produce a natural golden glow.[48]
1.10 Hair Care
1.10.1 Amla
Amla is obtained from the plant Emblica Officinalis, Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla is rich in
vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides
nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair. Hibiscus consists of calcium, phosphorus,
iron, vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and
prevents premature graying of hair.[49]
1.10.2 Almond Oil
The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond oil basically contains about 78%
of this fat. This oil contains very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty
acids. It proves to be very nourishing and softens and strengthens the hair. The almond oil
also proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has been used for many centuries,
even before it's spread as a commercial agro-product.[50]
2. CONCLUSION
So, the herbal cosmetics are the most important part of the today‟s modern life. As they are
used for the beautifications purpose mainly, their demand increases vigorously. Herbal
Cosmetics having certain advantages over there synthetic cosmetics as follows:
They are cheap in cost.
They are easily available in the market.
They are least toxic and also having least or no adverse effects.
So, from all the study of Herbal Cosmetics we can conclude that “The Herbal Cosmetics are
the most significant alternative for the synthetic cosmetics”.[51]]
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