Travel Amsterdam-eyewitness top ten travel guides

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  • 10

    EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

    YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

    10

    10

    Unmissable museums & galleriesBest restaurants, bars & cafesMost fun places for childrenBest hotels for every budget Finest canals to explore on footBest shops & marketsGreatest Dutch artistsBest venues for music, dance & theatreMost elegant canal housesInsider tips for every visitor

    10

    10

    10

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    10

    TOP 10AMSTERDAM

  • Westerdok

    Haarlemmerbuurt

    NieuweZijde

    NegenStraatjes

    Spiegel-kwartier

    Jordaan

    Oud Zuid

    Oud West

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    D A M

    Western Canal Ring pp9097

    Nieuwe Zijde p

    O

    Central Canal Ring pp98105

    Museum Quarter pp114119 Eastern Canal Ring pp

    0500 500yards metres

    Amsterdam Area by Area

    Caf de Jaren

    This Top 10 Travel Guide to Amsterdam divides this historic city intoseven easily managed central Amsterdam areas and one areaexploring further afield. This map shows the location and extent ofthese areas. Each Amsterdam area in the guide is colour coded;colour bands on the pages covering each area correspond to thecolours shown on this map. Almost every place mentioned in the bookhas a map reference, which takes you to the large maps on the frontand back flaps.

  • OudeZijde

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    Oude Zijde pp7681

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    Sloterplas

    Schiphol

    04 4miles km

    Further Afield pp126129

    The Magere Brug on the Amstel river

    Flowers at the famous Bloemenmarkt

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  • AMSTERDAM

    MAIN CONTRIBUTORS

    FIONA DUNCAN & LEONIE GLASS

    DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES

  • 2Contents

    Amsterdams Top 10

    Canals & Waterways 8

    Rijksmuseum 12

    Van Gogh Museum 16

    Museum Amstelkring 20

    Begijnhof 22

    Amsterdams Historisch Museum 24

    Oude Kerk 28

    Van Loon Museum 30

    Anne Frankhuis 32

    Dam Square 34

    Moments in Amsterdams History 38

    Museums 40

    Churches 42

    Historic Buildings 44

    Dutch Artists 46

    Jewish Sights 48

    Produced by DP Services, 31 Ceylon Road, London W14 0PY

    Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in Italy by Graphicom

    First published in Great Britain in 2003by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

    A Penguin Company

    Reprinted with revisions 2005Copyright 2003, 2005 Dorling

    Kindersley Limited, London

    All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic,

    mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.

    A CIP catalogue record is available fromthe British Library.

    ISBN 1 4053 0793 5

    Within each Top 10 list in this book, nohierarchy of quality or popularity isimplied. All 10 are, in the editorsopinion, of roughly equal merit.

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    nte

    nts Left Hollandse Manege Right Magere Brug

    Cover: All photographs specially commissioned except: Front DK Images: Front bl, cl; Powerstock: JoannaMcCarthy main. Spine DK Images: Max Alexander. Back DK Images: tc; Vanessa Hamilton tl; Kim Sayer tr.

    The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of

    going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers

    cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of

    our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.

  • 3Cafs 50

    Bars 52

    Clubs 54

    Performing Arts Venues 56

    Culinary Highlights 58

    Restaurants 60

    Shops & Markets 62

    Walks & Cycle Rides 64

    Places for Peace & Quiet 66

    Childrens Attractions 68

    Festivals & Events 70

    Excursions 72

    Around Town

    Oude Zijde 76

    Nieuwe Zijde 82

    Western Canal Ring 90

    Central Canal Ring 98

    Eastern Canal Ring 106

    Museum Quarter 114

    Plantage 122

    Further Afield 126

    Streetsmart

    Practical Information 132

    Places to Stay 144

    General Index 150

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    Left Eerste Klas Caf, Centraal Station Right Prinsengracht

    Left Caf de Jaren Right Montelbaanstoren, Oude Schans

  • AMSTERDAMSTOP 10

    Amsterdam Highlights67

    Canals & Waterways811

    Rijksmuseum1215

    Van Gogh Museum1619

    Museum Amstelkring2021

    Begijnhof2223

    Amsterdams HistorischMuseum

    2427

    Oude Kerk2829

    Museum Van Loon3031

    Anne Frankhuis3233

    Dam Square3435

    Top 10 of Everything3873

    AMSTERDAM

    S TOP 10

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    Amsterdam HighlightsAmsterdam has an appeal that is absolutely unique. Its a vibrant place, atreasure-trove of extraordinary artistic riches, and the living embodiment of900 years of history, during which it rose to become the centre of a huge globalempire. After a period of decline, it matured into todays relaxed and tolerantmodern metropolis. Elegant and serene, Amsterdam also has its seamy side,and this too is part of its character, as much as its famous network of canals.Whatever you are looking for, this small city packs a big punch.

    Canals andWaterways

    Amsterdams canals in particular, the

    elegant ring of three17th-century canals

    known as theGrachtengordel are

    its defining feature(see pp811).

    RijksmuseumThe countrys

    largest national museumhouses an unrivalledcollection of 17th-century Dutch art, andmuch besides. VermeersMilkmaid (left) andRembrandts NightWatch are among thestar sights (see p1215).

    Van Gogh Museum

    The Van Gogh Museumhouses simply the

    most comprehensivecollection of the artists

    work to be seenanywhere in the world

    including some of hismost famous paintings.

    The collection alsoincludes works byother 19th-century

    artists (see pp1619).

    Museum AmstelkringThings are not always what they

    seem, and that is certainly true of thisgem of a 17th-century house set inthe unlikely surroundings of the RedLight District: tucked away on its upperfloors is a rare example of a perfectlypreserved clandestine Catholic church.The rest of the museum is fascinating,too the interior has changed littlesince the Golden Age (see pp2021).

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    BegijnhofA haven of peace,

    the Begijnhof was builtas a refuge for theBeguines, a lay Catholicsisterhood. Amsterdamsoldest house is here(see pp223).

    AmsterdamsHistorisch

    MuseumHoused in the old cityorphanage, this vibrantcollection traces thehistory of Amsterdamfrom the 12th century(see pp247).

    Oude KerkThis great Gothic

    basilica preserves anumber of its treasures,despite being stripped ofits paintings and statuaryduring the Iconoclasm(see pp289).

    Museum Van LoonVisitors to the Van

    Loon family residence onthe Keizersgracht, lovinglyrestored in the style ofthe mid-18th century, havea rare opportunity to seebehind the faade of agrand canal house andto wander freely about it(see pp3031).

    Anne FrankhuisThe hiding place of Anne Frank

    and her family, before they werediscovered, arrested and sent to theirdeaths, is today a deeply movingmuseum (see pp323).

    Dam SquareThis is where it all started: Amster-

    dams main square is on the site of thedam on the Amstel around which thecity grew. Now it hosts markets, eventsand all shades of city life (see pp345).

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  • 8Three perfectcanalside cafs arePapeneiland, atPrinsengracht 2, VanPuffelen, where youcan sit on a barge insummer (see p102),and De Sluyswacht(see p80).

    If you are in thecentre of Amsterdam,with no time toexplore the cityscanals, at least take astroll to the Huis opde Drie Grachten,(House on ThreeCanals), step-gabledon all three of itscanal-facing sides, atOudezijdsVoorburgwal 249.

    With their delightful views, pretty bridges (1,281 in all), idiosyncratic gabledhouses and relaxed waterside cafs, Amsterdams 75 km (47 miles) of canalsare great fun to explore: full of interest and perfect for a leisurely stroll. Theyare a constant reminder that the Netherlands is the worlds flattest country,half of which has been reclaimed from the sea with the aid of dykes, canalsand, more recently, huge tidal barriers. Before you start exploringAmsterdams canals on foot, however, you should take a boat tour (see pp10and 136) for a fascinating overview.

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    Top 10 Canals andWaterways

    1 Herengracht2 Keizersgracht3 Prinsengracht4 Entrepotdok5 Reguliersgracht6 Amstel River7 Brouwersgracht8 Bloemgracht9 Leidsegracht0 Singel

    Caf Van Puffelen

    Canals and Waterways

    HerengrachtStateliest canal of the

    Grachtengordel (see p11),the Herengracht isfamous for its GoldenBend a grand but ratherlifeless stretch ofmansions built for therichest merchants. A morebeautiful stretch liesbetween Huidenstraat andLeidsestraat, best viewedfrom the east side.

    KeizersgrachtThe central canal of

    the Grachtengordel hasfine stretches betweenBrouwersgracht andRaadhuisstraat, and againbetween Runstraat andLeidestraat.

    PrinsengrachtThe outermost canal of

    the Grachtengordel, designedfor warehouses and artisanshousing, has a breezy, laid-back air. It is peppered withcafs, art galleries andhouseboats. Cycle its 3 km (2 mile) length, or exploreshort stretches on foot.

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    How AmsterdamsHouses are BuiltEach house is built onwooden piles sunk intothe marshy, poroussubsoil. It wasnt untilthe 17th century, whenthe piles could be sunkdeep enough to reachthe hard layer of sandthat lies at 13 m (42 ft),that any real stabilitywas achieved. Somereach even further, to asecond layer of sand at18 m (58 ft). If pilescome into contact withair, they rot, so today,concrete is usedinstead of wood.

    ReguliersgrachtMuch loved for its

    pretty houses and hump-backed bridges,Reguliersgracht was cut in 1664. Look out forNos 57, 59 and 63.

    EntrepotdokAn imposing stretch of former

    dockland has been restored to provideoffices and apartments, with outdoorcafs overlooking colourful houseboats.

    Amstel RiverUntil the construct-

    ion of the Grachtengordelpushed it out of focus,the river Amstel was thecitys raison dtre. It isstill used by barges totransport goods to thecitys port.

    BrouwersgrachtThe happy-go-lucky

    feel of the brewerscanal makes a pleasantcontrast to the sophistic-ated elegance of theGrachtengordel.

    BloemgrachtA charming canal

    crossed by cast-ironbridges, Bloemgracht is known locally as the Herengracht of theJordaan, because of its elaborately gabledhouses.

    LeidsegrachtThis lovely and

    exclusive canal was cutin 1664, when it was themain barge route fromAmsterdam to Leiden.

    SingelOnce a fortified moat,

    the Singel is now hometo Bloemenmarkt, thedomed Ronde LutherseKerk and the soaring Neo-Gothic Krijtberg church.

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    The Safest VaultsThe vaults of the Dutch

    National Bank are sunk some 15 m (48 ft) below ground level.In the event of an alarm, theyhave been designed to allow thewaters of the Singelgracht toflood into them.

    The Prison BridgeThe Torensluis the widest

    bridge in Amsterdam spans the Singel on the site of a 17th-century sluice gate. A lock-up jailwas built into its foundations.

    The Cat BoatHundreds of feline

    waifs and strays aregiven refuge in DePoezenboot (The CatBoat), moored on theSingel (above).

    The DrunkenTsar

    In 1716, Peter theGreat got drunk at hisfriend Christoffel Brantshouse at Keizersgracht 317,and kept the mayor waitingat a civic reception. Thatnight, he stayed at the house of the Russian ambassador,Herengracht 527, whereNapoleon also stayed in 1811.

    The Narrowest HouseIs Singel 7 the smallest

    house in Amsterdam? No, itssimply the back door of a wedge-shaped house, whatever yourtour guide tells you.

    The Oldest CafWhich is really the oldest

    caf in Amsterdam? Its CafChris, in Bloemstraat, datingfrom 1624. A curiosity: the loo isflushed from the bar.

    The Most Crooked Caf Teetering Caf de Sluyswacht,

    built in 1695, makes an alarmingsight as you glide by along theOude Schans (see p80).

    The Wrapped-up HouseLook carefully at VictoriaHotel, near the station, and

    you will see two tiny 17th-century houses

    embedded in themonumental 19th-century faade. Alittle old lady, so thestory goes, refusedto sell up, so thehotel had to wrapitself around them.

    The FloatingPagoda

    The vast Sea Palace,Amsterdams famousfloating Chinese restaurant,

    makes an unusual sight inOosterdok. With its twinklinglights and many windows, itmakes a romantic dinner spot.

    The Tower of TearsThis medieval defensive

    tower has the saddest of names:Schreierstoren (Tower of Tears),where weeping women wavedfarewell to their seafaring men.

    Unexpected Sights on a Canal TourLeft Canal tour boat on the Oude Schans Right De Poezenboot

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    Amsterdams magnificent semicircle of three canals Prinsengracht, Keizersgracht and Herengracht is thecitys defining characteristic. Lined by elegant gabledhouses, and connected by intimate cross-streets, itwas devised in the early 17th century to cope withthe rapid rise in population, and was built in twostages during the century. This costly Plan of ThreeCanals was purely aesthetic, taking no account ofexisting waterways. The land along the banks wassold in single plots; the wealthy bought two togetherso that they could build larger houses.

    Amsterdam had its unlikely beginnings some 400years before, when a fishing settlement grew up onthe marshy banks of the river Amstel. (It was dam-med in 1222 hence the name, a contraction ofAmstelledamme.) As the town began to expand,canals were cut to drain more land and provide

    transport channels, and outer canalswere fortified. A glance at a map clearlyshows the limits of the medieval town,bounded by the curved Singel, with theGrachtengordel fanning out beyond.

    Magere BrugBuilt in 1672 and so narrow that itwas named the Skinny Bridge, thismuch-loved double-leaf woodendrawbridge was rebuilt in 1969.

    The Grachtengordel

    Plan of Amsterdam (1648) showing the Grachtengordel

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    For details of canal tours See p136

    Top 10 Bridges

    1 Magere Brug (Amstel)2 Blauwbrug (Amstel)3 Hogesluis (Amstel)4 Nieuwe Amstelbrug

    (Amstel)5 Berlagebrug (Amstel)6 Torensluis (Singel)7 St Antoniessluis

    (Zwanenburgwal)8 Seven hump-back

    bridges (Reguliersgracht)9 White wooden

    drawbridges (WesternIslands)

    0 Sleutelbrug (OudezijdsVoorburgwal)

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    The museums dullself-service restaurantis by the right-handfront entrance hall.You might prefer tohead for IndonesianSama Sebo, on P. C.Hoofstraat, or CafAmericain (see p101).

    Be prepared: this is adifficult museum toget to grips with in asingle visit.To makematters worse, inlate 2003, the mainbuilding closed forrestoration, duringwhich the PhilipsWing will stay open,showing a selectionof works. Until then,works of art are liableto move around.

    Stadhouderskade42/Hobbemastraat 19 Map D5 020 674 7000 www.rijksmuseum.nl Open 9am6pm;closed Jan 1. Gardenopen 10am5pmTueSat, 15pm Sun Admission 9 (under 19s free); garden free

    The magnificent national museum of the Netherlands possesses nearly sevenmillion works of art, only a fraction of which is on display. It was establishedby King Louis Napoleon in 1808 in the Royal Palace on the Dam, movinglater to the Trippenhuis on Kloveniersburgwal. In 1865, the architect P J H Cuypers designed a new home near the Vondelpark; theRijksmuseum opened in 1885. The main building is beingrenovated (until 2008) and only the Philips Wing is open.

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    Bear in mind that from late 2003, the museum will undergo amajor and lengthy restoration See panel above

    Faade of theRijksmuseum

    Rijksmuseum

    St Elizabeths Day FloodLook carefully at this pastoral

    scene, highlight of the museumsDutch History collection, and youwill see that a tragedy isunfolding. Painted by anunknown artist in 1500, itrecalls a disastrous flood of1421, when some 20 villageswere swept away by floodwater.

    The Night WatchThe museums most prized

    possession is The Military Companyof Captain Frans Banning Cocq otherwise known as The NightWatch (1642), given pride ofplace at the head of theGallery of Honour (see p15).

    The Jewish BrideIn creating one of the most

    tender double portraits ever painted(1667), Rembrandt depicted in anunusually free style an unknowncouple in the guise of biblicalcharacters Isaac and Rebecca.

    The MilkmaidThe sense of realism

    in this magical paintingby Vermeer (c.1658) isconveyed by his masteryof light, colour andperspective. Seen slightlyfrom below against abare wall, the simple,sturdy girl seems almosttangible quiet and still,but for the milk flowingfrom her jug (left).

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    For more on Dutch Artists See pp46-7

    Gallery GuideThere are threeentrances, two at thefront, either side of thecentral driveway whichruns under the building,and one in the PhilipsWing on Hobbemastraat.At peak visiting times,its quicker to use thisentrance, housingAsiatic Art, EuropeanPaintings, Costume andTextiles and temporaryexhibitions, then makeyour way through to themain building. Themuseums highlightcollections DutchPaintings and Dutch17th-century Sculptureand Decorative Arts are on the first floor.

    The Windmill atWijk

    In this impressive painting(1670) by Jacob vanRuisdael, a calm scenebecomes a dramaticpicture, full of excitement.

    Winter Landscapewith Skaters

    Dutch landscape artistHendrick Avercampspecialized in winterscenes packed withdelightful detail, such asthis one painted in 1608.The longer you gaze at it,the more you notice.

    DelftwareThe

    Rijksmuseum hasa superb collectionof Delftware,including anastonishingpyramid vase (c. 1700) morethan 1 m (3.2 ft)high, with spoutsfor displayinghighly-prizedtulips (right).

    Dolls House ofPetronella Oortman

    An exquisitely detailed17th-century miniatureDutch house, belongingnot to a child but an adult.

    Portrait of Womanin Turkish Costume

    Swiss-born Jean-EtienneLiotard was a portrait artistwho used pastels withgreat skill. After a spellliving in Istanbul, hedressed as a Turk, and heliked to array his sitters inTurkish costume as well as in this subtle anddelicate painting of 1745.

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    GallantConversation

    In the 17th century,paintings of everydayscenes, called genrepaintings, became verypopular. In this one, byGerard Ter Borch (1655), a scruffy dog, a candle and a bed convey sexualmeaning, and the manappears to hold up a coin.

    Top 10 Works

    1 St Elizabeths Day Flood2 The Night Watch3 The Jewish Bride4 The Milkmaid5 Gallant Conversation6 The Windmill at Wijk7 Winter Landscape with

    Skaters8 Delftware9 Dolls House of Petronella

    Oortman0 Portrait of Woman in

    Turkish Costume

  • The BuildingThe architect P J

    H Cuypers attractedstrong criticism fromthe Protestantcommunity, who tookexception to thebuildings Neo-Gothicroofs and ornatelydecorated faade. KingWilliam III refused toset foot inside.

    The GardenA little-known,

    immaculate haven, it isstudded with statues andarchitectural curiosities.

    Dutch HistoryThe museums collection

    includes a chronological displayof artifacts tracing the history of the Netherlands. Highlightsinclude St Elizabeths Day Flood(see p12) and The Battle ofWaterloo by Jan WillemPieneman.

    Dutch PaintingsWalk through the Gallery of

    Honour to survey The NightWatch, then begin the tourproper with paintings of theMiddle Ages (Room 201). Themuseums core is its astonishingarray of 17th-century Dutch art,in which every important Dutchartist is represented by aselection of his greatest works.Move on to the 18th- and 19th-century collections, including aVan Gogh self-portrait.

    European PaintingsVeronese and Goya are

    among the Italian and Spanishmasters represented here.

    A collection of pastels isdisplayed separately.

    Sculpture andDecorative Arts

    Highlights includeDelftware, dolls

    houses (see p13),glassware and

    furniture, as well as theremarkable Chinese Roomfrom Leeuwarden.

    Costumes and TextilesMagnificent costumes

    and textiles, mostly 18th- and19th-century, are displayed intemporary, themed exhibitions.

    Asiatic ArtHere, the fruits of Dutch

    association with the Orient areon display including beautifulworks of art from India,Indonesia, China and Japan.

    Print RoomThe museum owns almost a

    million works on paper a smallselection is shown in temporaryexhibitions in the Print Room onthe ground floor.

    ARIAThe ARIA computer system

    offers information on 1,250items from the collection, andhelps you to design your ownroute around the museum.

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    Rijksmuseum FeaturesLeft, Centre Works by Edvard Munch and Gerard Ter Borch Right Seated Guanyin

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    Popular belief holds Rembrandts greatest painting,The Night Watch (1642), responsible for his changein fortune from rich man to pauper. In fact, it wasmore a case of poor financial management than ofpublic dissatisfaction with the artist, although its verylikely that the militiamen who commissioned theportrait would have been dismayed at the result. TheNight Watch differs radically from other contemporaryportraits of companies of civic guards, in which theyare depicted seated, serious and soberly dressed(see p26). Rembrandt, by contrast, shows a tumult-uous scene the captain issuing orders to hislieutenant, the men taking up arms ready to march.This huge painting was originally even larger, but itwas drastically cut down in 1715, when it was movedto the town hall, and the other pieces were lost. In1975 it was slashed, but repaired.

    Self-Portrait as St PaulRembrandts series ofself-portraits, paintedthroughout his life,provide an extra-ordinary insight intohis character.

    Rembrandt and TheNight Watch

    Top 10 Events inRembrandts Life

    1 Born in Leiden (1606)2 Studies with Pieter

    Lastman (1624)3 Receives first important

    commission andmarries Saskia vanUylenburgh (1634)

    4 Reputation grows; buyslarge house inAmsterdam (1639) now the Museum hetRembrandthuis

    5 Titus, his only child tosurvive into adulthood,is born (1641)

    6 Saskia dies; The NightWatch completed (1642)

    7 Hendrickje Stoffelsmoves in (1649)

    8 Applies for bankruptcy(1656)

    9 Titus and Hendrickjeacquire the rights to hiswork

    0 Death of Titus (1668); inOctober of the followingyear, Rembrandt dies

    The Military Company of Captain Frans Banning Cocq better known as The Night Watch

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    The museum has auseful self-servicecaf, situated on theground floor.

    To avoid the crowds,arrive at openingtime. Stick to thechronological orderof the display, andread the excellentEnglish labels.

    Paulus Potterstraat 7 Map C6 020 570 5200 www.vangoghmuseum.nl Open 10am6pm daily,10am10pm Fri Admission: adults 9;children 1317 2.50(under 13s free) Audio tours free;group tours byappointment

    The most comprehensive collection in the world of Van Goghs work wasamassed by his art dealer brother Theo, and is housed in this museum. Itincludes more than 200 of his paintings, over 500 drawings and hundreds ofletters, as well as his Japanese prints and works by contemporaries thoughnot all are on permanent display. Gerrit Rietvelds airy building, opened in1973, sets off the paintings to perfection. The display follows Van Goghsdevelopment from the murky peasant scenes of the early 1880sto the anguished final works. An ellipse-shaped extensiondesigned by Kisho Kurokawa was added in 1999.

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    Van Gogh Museum

    SunflowersThis vibrant painting (1889)

    was intended to be one of aseries of still lifes to fill theYellow House at Arles. VanGogh chose sunflowers becausehe was expecting Paul Gauguin,and knew his friend liked them.The predominant yellows andoranges contrast with strokesof brilliant mauve and red.

    The Potato EatersThe culmination of his

    years in Nuenen, this was VanGoghs first major composition(1885). He wanted to portraythe peasants realistically, notglamorize them, but thepainting was not the criticalsuccess he had hoped for.

    The Bridge in theRain

    This work, painted in1887, illustrates VanGoghs interest inJapanese art, in particularUtagawa Hiroshige.However, Van Gogh usedfar brighter colours andgreater contrasts.

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    For more Amsterdam museums See pp4041

    Museum GuideVan Goghs paintingsare displayed by dateand place of executionon the first floor of themain building. Works bycontemporaries are splitbetween ground andthird floor. Exhibitions ofdrawings and graphicart are staged on thesecond floor, which alsohas a study area, wheredrawings and documentstoo fragile to be display-ed can be viewed. Thenew wing has threefloors, devoted totemporary exhibitions.

    Top 10 Paintings

    1 Sunflowers2 The Potato Eaters3 The Bridge in the Rain4 A Pair of Shoes5 Self-Portrait as an Artist6 Fishing Boats on the

    Beach at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

    7 Vincents Bedroom in Arles8 The Reaper9 Almond Blossom0 Wheatfield with Crows

    Self-Portrait as anArtist

    The last and mostaccomplished in a seriesof self-portraits paintedin 1887, shortly before heleft Paris, reveals VanGoghs distinctive inter-pretation of Pointillism.He chose himself assubject since he couldseldom afford models.

    VincentsBedroom in Arles

    The mastery of thispainting (1888) lies in thesimplicity of the subjectand the subtly alternatingblocks of colour. VanGogh was so happy withthe result that he madetwo copies (see p19).

    The ReaperWhile undergoing

    treatment in Saint-Rmy,Van Gogh found solacepainting people whoworked the land. Hepainted three versions ofThe Reaper (1889).

    Almond BlossomVan Gogh made this

    picture of white almondblossom against a bluesky for his new nephew,born in January 1890 andnamed after him.

    Wheatfield withCrows

    One of the panoramiclandscapes that Van Goghpainted in 1890, duringthe last days of his life,this famous picture withits dead-end track andmenacing, crow-filled sky,perhaps reveals histortured state of mind.

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    A Pair of ShoesVan Gogh gives

    character to a pair ofworn boots in one of the first paintings afterhis move to Paris (1886).The dark palette harksback to his Nuenen work.

    Fishing Boats onthe Beach at Les

    Saintes-Maries-de-la-MerA trip to the sea in 1888produced these colourful,stylized boats. Look closeand you will see grains ofsand, blown on to thecanvas and fixed thereforever as the paint dried.

  • View of PrinsHendrikkade

    and the KrommeWaal in AmsterdamMonet painted thiscityscape in winter1874 from a boat onthe IJ river.

    Young PeasantGirl with a Hoe

    Jules Breton was anidol of Van Gogh. Inrural scenes like this one(1882), he places an idealizedfigure in a realistic setting.

    Exhausted Maenads afterthe Dance

    In this Lawrence Alma-Tademapainting of 1874, three devotees(maenads) of the wine godBacchus have fallen asleep.

    Portrait of GuusPreitinger, the Artists Wife

    The vivid use of colour in Keesvan Dongens portrait of his wife(1911) is characteristic ofFauvism.

    Young Woman at a Table,Poudre de Riz

    This early painting by Toulouse-Lautrec (1887), who became afriend of Van Gogh, is probablyof his mistress, Suzanne Valadon.

    Portrait of BernardsGrandmother

    Van Gogh swapped one of hisself-portraits for this painting(1887) by Emile Bernard.

    Saint Genevive asa Child in Prayer

    An oil study (1876) byPuvis de Chavannes for

    the huge murals hepainted on the theme of St Genevives

    childhood at thePanthon in Paris.

    Self-Portrait witha Portrait of

    Bernard, LesMisrables

    In his powerful self-portrait(1888), Gauguin identified him-self with the hero of LesMisrables, Jean Valjean.

    Grand PaysanJules Dalou shared Van

    Goghs preoccupation withpeasants, whom he saw asheroic labourers. He devised thislife-size sculpture in 1889.

    Two Women EmbracingVan Goghs influence on the

    Dutch artist Jan Sluijters isobvious in the brushwork andcolour of this painting of 1906.

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    Van Gogh Museum: Other Artists

    Portrait of Bernards Grandmother

    Left Exhausted Maenads Centre Amsterdam cityscape by Monet Right Gauguin self-portrait

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    Born on 30 March 1853 in Zundert, Vincent vanGogh was the eldest son of a pastor and his wife.Aged 16, he joined his uncles business Goupil & Co.,art dealers. Seven years later, displaying increasinglyerratic behaviour, he was dismissed. After a coupleof false starts as teacher and evangelist, in 1880 hedecided to be a painter. From 1883 to 1885, helived with his parents in Nuenen, but in 1886 hewent to Paris to study in Fernand Cormons studio.He lived with his brother Theo, met renowned artists

    and changed his style. In 1888,he moved to Arles where he

    dreamed of establishing anartists colony with PaulGauguin. Soon afterGauguin arrived, thefriends had a fierceargument, and during apsychotic attack, VanGogh cut off a piece of

    his own left ear lobe. He enrolled as a voluntary patient ina clinic in Saint-Rmy in 1889. The following year he left

    for the rural village Auvers-sur-Oise, where his state of minddeteriorated and he shot himself in the chest on 27 July 1890.

    He died, with Theo at his bedside, two days later.

    The Life of Vincentvan Gogh

    Vincents Bedroom in Arles by Van Gogh

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    Vincent Van Gogh

    Top 10 19th-CenturyArtists

    1 Vincent van Gogh(18531890)

    2 Claude Monet(18401926)

    3 Pierre Auguste Renoir(18411919)

    4 Paul Czanne(18391906)

    5 Auguste Rodin(18401917)

    6 Edouard Manet(183283)

    7 Edgar Degas(18341917)

    8 J M W Turner(17751851)

    9 Eugne Delacroix(17981863)

    0 Jean-Baptiste CamilleCorot (17961875)

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    For refreshment,head away from theRed Light District toNieuwmarkt, whereIn de Waag is anexcellent caf-restaurant, or toEngelbewaarder inKloveniersburgwal(see p50).

    Take one of the freeplans and follow thesuggested tour ofthe museum. If youare confused at first,dont worry all therooms are clearlymarked and youwont miss anything.

    Oudezijds Voorburgwal40 Map P2 020 624 6604 www.museumamstelkring.nl Open 10am5pmMonSat, 15pm Sun,public hols. Closed 1Jan, 30 Apr Admission: 7;concessions: 5; under19: 1

    Contrasting sharply with its surroundings in the shabbiest corner of the RedLight District, this lovely 17th-century house has a surprise in store. Concealedin its upper floors is a hidden church, Ons Lieve Heer op Solder (Our DearLord in the Attic), a rare, perfectly preserved example of the many clandestinechurches that were built after the Alteration (see facing page). Local Catholicsworshipped here from 1663 to 1887, when nearby St Nicolaaskerk was built.Its little-changed interiors transport you back in time to the Dutch Golden Age.

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    For more on Amsterdams churches See pp423

    Top 10 Features

    1 The Building2 The Front Parlour3 The Sael4 The Priests Room5 The Clandestine Church6 The Folding Pulpit7 The Maria Chapel and Peat

    Room8 The Confessional9 The Rear Houses0 The Kitchen

    Amstelkring faade withspout gable

    Museum Amstelkring

    The BuildingThe spout-gabled

    canal house was built in1661 for Jan Hartman, aCatholic merchant. Hecombined its attic withthe attics of two smallerhouses behind to createthe hidden church, whichwas extended in c.1735.

    The Front ParlourThis (above) was the

    merchants shop, withthe wood-floored officebehind and a separateentrance for customers.The family and theirguests entered thoughthe porch into the dimly-lit marble corridor.

    The SaelAdhering to strict rules of

    proportion and symmetry, thefamilys formal receptionroom (sael) is a superb ex-ample of the Dutch Classicalstyle fashionable in the 17thcentury (below). It contrastswith the simpler UpstairsRoom, which would not havebeen used to receive guests.

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    For more on the Dutch Golden Age See p27

    The AlterationThe revolt of the(Calvinist) NorthernNetherlands against the (Catholic) SpanishHabsburgs began in1568, but Amsterdamdid not decide where itsloyalties lay until 1578,when the city joinedWilliam of Orange in a peaceful revolutionknown as the Alteration.Calvinists seized powerand Amsterdam becamethe Protestant capital ofan infant Dutch republic.Catholics were nolonger allowed toworship in public, butDutch tolerance ensuredthat they were able tocontinue in private.

    The Priests RoomFormerly the

    servants quarters, thePriests Room is tuckedinto a corner on a bendin the stairs. Its a tiny,enclosed bedroom with abox bed, simply furnish-ed as it would have beenfor the priest of theclandestine church, wholived in the house.

    The ClandestineChurch

    At the top of the stairs,the clandestine church(schuilkerk) proves acharming and highlyunusual sight (left). In c.1735 it was remod-elled in Baroque style,with the addition of two tiers of galleries,suspended from theroof by cast-iron rods,to provide extra seating.

    The Folding PulpitWith space-saving in

    mind, the ingenious pulpitwas designed to fold awayunder the left column ofthe altar when not inuse. The altar painting isThe Baptism of Christ byJacob de Wit (16951754).

    The Maria Chapeland Peat Room

    The congregation keptwarm with footwarmersfuelled by peat stored inthis room above the Mariachapel, which now housesthe churchs silver.

    The ConfessionalIn 1739, this living

    room in the middle of the three houses becamethe churchs confessional.One of the two woodenconfessional boxes stillremains (right).

    The Rear HousesThe rear houses were

    gradually taken over bythe church, but there arestill signs of their originaluse as family rooms.

    The KitchenOnce part of the

    sacristans secret livingquarters, the charming17th-century kitchen (left)has Delft wall tiles, anopen hearth, stone sinkand black-and-white floor.

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    Trendy Caf Espritand traditional CafHoppe are just roundthe corner in Spui (atNos 10 and 18respectively).

    Services are held inDutch (daily) andFrench (Sundays) inthe Roman CatholicBegijnhof Chapel.Services in Englishare held in theProtestant EngelseKerk (Sundays).

    In summer, go to a lunchtime concertat the Engelse Kerk.

    Pick up an inform-ation booklet fromHet Houten Huis.

    Spui (entrance onGedempte Bejynensloot) Map M4 020 623 3565 (chapel) www.begijnhofamsterdam.nl Open 9am5pm daily;Begijnhof Chapel open16:30pm Mon,9:30am6:30pm TueFri,9am6pm Sat & Sun Free

    Away from the bustle of the city, this bewitching sanctuary of elegant housesaround a tranquil green was founded in 1346 for the members of a lay Cath-olic sisterhood, the Beguines, the last of whom died in 1971. Although noneof the original buildings survive nor the early design in which the courtyardwas surrounded by water there is a fascinating example of a 15th-centurywooden house, a lovely church of the same period, and an appealing hiddenchapel. Visitors are asked to respect the privacy of the current residents.

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    The elegant houses of theBegijnhof

    Begijnhof

    Engelse KerkBefore the Alteration

    (see p21), the Beguinesworshipped in this pretty15th-century church(below). Confiscated in1578, it was let in 1607 toa group of English andScottish Presbyterians,who renamed it.

    Begijnhof ChapelThe citys first

    clandestine chapel wascreated in 1665, when theBeguines converted twoordinary houses into alittle church (see pp2021). The Miracle ofAmsterdam (see p38) iscommemorated here.

    Het Houten HuisNo. 34, Het Houten

    Huis, is the oldest house inAmsterdam (below), andone of only two wood-fronted houses in the city.It predates the 1521 ban onthe construction of woodenhouses, introduced toreduce the risk of fire.

    Top 10 Features

    1 Engelse Kerk2 Begijnhof Chapel3 Het Houten Huis4 Courtyard with Wall Plaques5 Mother Superiors House6 17th- and 18th-Century

    Houses7 Statue of a Beguine8 The Beguine in the Gutter9 Wall Plaque on No. 190 Spui Entrance

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    For more on hofjes See p92

    The WelfareSystemCharity lies at the heartof Amsterdams longtradition of caring for thepoor and needy, whichgoes back to the MiddleAges and continues tothe present day. In the14th century, primaryresponsibility for socialwelfare passed from thechurch to the city author-ities. They distributedfood to the poor, and setup institutions to care fororphans, the sick and theinsane. In the 17thcentury, a number ofwealthy merchantsfunded almshouses hofjes providing sub-sidized mass housing.Some of these hofjes arestill used for their originalpurpose today.

    Wall Plaque onNo. 19

    This handsome plaque(above) illustrates thereturn from Egypt toIsrael of Jesus, Maryand Joseph after thedeath of Herod.

    MotherSuperiors House

    The grandest house, No.26, belonged to theMother Superior (above).In the 20th century, thelast of the Beguines livedtogether here.

    Statue of aBeguine

    The statue shows aBeguine dressed in hertraditional falie(headdress) and longgarment of undyed cloth.

    The Beguine inthe Gutter

    To make amends for herfamilys conversion toProtestantism, CorneliaArents requested in herwill not to be buried inthe church, but in thegutter outside. Her coffinwas left inside thechurch on 2 May 1654,but the following day ithad miraculously movedoutside, where she waseventually buried. Aplaque marks the spot.

    Spui EntranceMembers of the

    public use the archedentrance from GedempteBegijnensloot, but besure to peep discreetlyinto the pretty vaultedand tiled passagewayleading to Spui.

    Courtyard withWall Plaques

    Set into the wall of thecourtyard behind HetHouten Huis is aremarkable collection ofwall plaques salvagedfrom demolishedhouses. In keeping withthe religious nature ofthe Beguines, each onetells a Biblical story.

    Plan of the Begijnhof

    17th- and 18th-Century Houses

    After several devastatingfires, most of the existinghouses were built in the17th and 18th centuries.They are typically tall andnarrow, with large sashwindows and spout orneck gables. They werethe property of the sister-hood, so if a Beguine leftor died, outsiders couldnot claim her house. Todaythey provide homes for100 or so single women.

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    The David & Goliathcaf is inside JoostBilhamers Kalver-straat entrance.

    Start your sight-seeing here; it willhelp you understandthe city when youbegin to explore.

    The electronic mapin Room 1 tracesAmsterdamsdevelopment fromAD 1000 to 2000.

    Dont miss thedelightful faadestones set into thewall of the museumin St Lucinsteeg.

    Kalverstraat 92; Sint Luciensteeg 27;Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal357 Map M4 020 523 1822 www.ahm.nl Open 10am5pmMonFri, 11am5pm Sat,Sun and hols. Closed 1 Jan, 30 Apr, 25 Dec Admission: adults 6;children 615 3 (under6s free); concessions4.50

    The Historical Museum houses the citys most fascinating collection of artifacts,archaeological finds, clothes, jewellery, maps, paintings and sculptures.Originally a convent, in 1580 it became the city orphanage. Handsome exten-sions were added by Hendrick and Pieter de Keyser before Jacob van Campensmagnificent rebuilding of 1634. The orphans moved out in 1960, and in 1975the museum moved in. Its stunningly presented exhibits and interactivedisplays chart Amsterdams growth and metamorphosis over the centuries.

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    Top 10 Works

    1 Birds-eye View of Amsterdam2 The Return from the Second

    Voyage to the East Indies3 Terrestrial and

    Celestial Globes4 19th-century

    JewelleryCollection

    5 Dam Square6 Turbo Shell 7 Orphan Girls going to Church8 Dr FM Wibaut (bronze head)9 The Anatomy Lesson of Dr Jan

    Deijman0 Model of the Oosterdok

    Kalverstraat entrance,1581

    Amsterdams Historisch Museum

    Birds-eye View ofAmsterdam

    Cornelis Anthoniszs 1538 map of Amsterdam (the oldestextant) includes the Dam,Oude Kerk and Nieuwe Kerk.

    The Return from the SecondVoyage to the East Indies

    Hendrik Corneliszoon Brooms painting(1599) celebrates the first successfulexpedition to the Far East to buy spices.

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    For more Amsterdam museums See pp4041

    Museum GuideThe permanentexhibition is arranged onthree floors; the YoungCity: 13501550 is onthe ground floor; theMighty City: 15501815 is split betweenground and first floors;the Modern City:18152000 is splitbetween first andsecond. A temporaryexhibition room and theCivic Guards Gallery areinside the Kalverstraatentrance to the left. Thedoor into the RegentsChamber is oppositethe ticket desk. There iswheelchair access atthe St Lucinsteegentrance.

    Terrestrial andCelestial Globes

    A pair of costly globes lentprestige to any self-respecting17th-century intellectual. JoanWillemsz Blaeu must havemade this unique pair after1644 because they show theAustralian coast, just discover-ed by Abel Tasman (see p39).

    Turbo ShellThis exquisite

    mother-of-pearl turbomarmoratus is covered intiny engraved animals. Itdates from around 1650

    and was probablybrought from the Orientby the Dutch East India

    Company (VOC).

    The Anatomy Lessonof Dr Jan Deijman

    In Rembrandts original,eight surgeons watched DrDeijman dissect a corpse.Fire destroyed most of thepainting in 1723, but thefrontal perspective of theremaining group is stillquite remarkable.

    Model of theOosterdok

    This wonderful model ofthe Oosterdok Lock datesfrom 1831, the year workstarted on the lock itself. Itwas part of a larger projectto counteract a build-up ofsilt, which barred largeships from the harbour.

    19th-centuryJewellery

    Sophia Lopez Suasso-deBruijn was a passionatecollector of jewellery;even on her deathbed,she spent 5,400 guilderson watches and snuff-boxes. Most of thestunning pieces ondisplay are Italian.

    Orphan Girlsgoing to Church

    Nicolaas van der Waaijscharming painting ofaround 1895 hangs in theanteroom to the RegentsChamber.

    Dr F M Wibaut This powerful bronze

    head was made in 1934by Tjipke Visser, favouritesculptor of the SocialDemocratic WorkersParty (SDAP). The subjectwas Floor Wibaut, SDAPCouncillor for housing inthe 1920s, whodedicated himself tobuilding new apartmentsfor the working class.

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    Dam Square George Hendrik

    Breitner based his city-scapes on photographs;despite its Impressionist

    style, this famouspainting (189598) still has aphotographic

    quality.

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  • Civic GuardsGallery

    These 16th- and17th-century groupportraits of the CivicGuard are arguablythe highlight of themuseum (entrance free).

    RegentsChamber

    The orphanage governorsmet in this 17th-centuryroom, sympatheticallyrestored in Old Holland style.

    Room 2: Walking throughthe City

    Aptly named, this room includesa superb collection of 14th- and15th-century leather shoes, wellpreserved after centuries in mud.

    Room 4:Turbulent TimesDisplays from the late 16th

    century include the Civic GuardsItalian-made armour, and silverthat escaped melting down forcrisis coins in 1578.

    Room 6:The DamThe bustling heart of the city

    was a popular subject in 17th-century paintings like LingelbachsDam Square with the New TownHall under Construction.

    Room 9: Social Care,Stern Discipline

    In 1613, the city appointed sixAlmoners with responsibility forthe poor and needy. The paintingsin this room show them at work.

    Room 12:The18th Century

    The 18th century sawthe decline of Amsterdam

    and, ultimately, theRepublics defeat bythe French. High-

    lights include The Arrivalof Napoleon atDam Square by

    van Bree.

    Room 15: 19th-century Cabinet

    There was a 19th-centurytrend for rich industrialists

    to collect art: old masters as wellas contemporary works. Theseimportant collections helped est-ablish the public ownership of art.

    Room 22: Amsterdam19401945

    A room devoted to memorabiliaof the German occupation.

    Room 24: Caf t MandjeA meticulous reconstruction

    of leather-clad motorbiker Betvan Beerens famous caf onZeedijk the first wherehomosexuals could be open.

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    Caf t Mandje

    Left Dam Square with the New Town Hall under Construction Right Civic Guard

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    The economic boom of the 17th century laid thefoundations for the flowering of the arts in Amsterdam.Plans were laid to surround the city with a triple ringof canals lined with fine houses, a project whichrequired the work of many architects. The mostpowerful city in the Dutch Republic recognized theimportance of the arts, and rewarded its artists well and with the supremacy of the Protestants came thefreedom to paint secular subjects. To show theirwealth and status, rich patrons commissionedportraits of themselves and their families. The artistsbest clients, however, were the municipal bodies suchas the guilds, who commissioned group portraits, aswell as decorative pieces of silver and glass. Painters

    began to focus their energies ona single area of painting whether historical, portraiture,

    interiors, genre, still lives, urbanscenes, landscapes or seascapes and this specialization greatlyenhanced the quality of theirworkmanship.

    Silver Marriage CupThe hinged bowl above thewomans head forms onecup, her full skirt a second.Once the wedding was infull swing, bride and groomwould down both together.

    The Golden AgeTop 10 Highlights ofthe Golden Age

    1 The Night Watch byRembrandt (1642,Rijksmuseum)) (see p15)

    2 The Grachtengordel,designed by HendrickStaets (begun in 1613)(see p11)

    3 Museum Amstelkring(1663) (see pp2021)

    4 Westerkerk by Hendrickde Keyser (1631) (seep91)

    5 Huis met de Hoofden,sometimes attributed toPieter de Keyser (1622)(see p91)

    6 Claes Claeszhofje (1616)7 Silver Marriage Cup by

    Gerrit Valck (1634) (right)8 Caf Hoppe (c.1670)

    (see p50)9 Delftware (second half

    17th century)0 Burgerzaal (Paleis op de

    Dam) Koninklijk Paleis(see pp34 & 39)

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    For more Amsterdam museums See pp4041

    Dutch Battle Ships by Ludolf Backhuysen

  • For food and people-watching, head forNieuwmarkt; In deWaag (Nieuwmarkt4) is recommended.

    Go to the DutchReformed Churchservice at 11am onSundays, one of theSpring or Summerconcerts, or theWorld Press Photoexhibition (late Aprilto early June).

    Tours of the towerare expensive, so tryto make up a group.Bring a pair of bin-oculars to study theceiling decoration.

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    Oudekerksplein 23 Map P2 020 625 8284 www.oudekerk.nl Open 11am5pmMonSat, 15pm Sun.Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec,30 Apr Admission 4; con-cessions 3.20 (separatecharge for exhibitions) Guided tours byappointment; Towertours by appointment(phone 020 689 2565)

    The citys oldest monument and first parish church stands on the site of anearly 13th-century wooden chapel that was destroyed by fire. Rebuilt as asmall stone hall church in the 14th century, over the years it expanded into amighty Gothic basilica, now in the heart of the Red Light District (see p77).The interior is stark, stripped of its Catholic treasures during the Iconoclasmof 1566, but it boasts some exquisite stained glass, rare ceiling paintings anda world-famous organ. It is dedicated to St Nicholas, patron saint of the city.

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    1 Great Organ2 Maria Kapel3 Ceiling4 Saskias Grave5 Red Door into the Old

    Sacristy6 Decorated Pillars7 Misericords8 Spire9 Stained Glass of the

    Burgemeesters0 Little Organ

    Exterior of the Oude Kerk

    Oude Kerk

    Maria KapelThe most stunning

    stained glass is in thethree windows of theLady Chapel. All datefrom the 16th century;two show scenes fromthe Virgins life, abovethe customary pictureof the family whodonated the window.

    Great OrganWith its eight pairs

    of bellows, magnificentoak-encased pipework,marbled wood statuesand gilded carving, thegreat organ is a glorioussight (right). Built byChristian Vater in 1724and renovated by JohannCaspar Mller 14 yearslater, it is known as theVater-Mller organ.

    CeilingThe massive wooden

    vaulted ceiling is claimed tobe the largest in WesternEurope, but it was only duringrestoration work in 1955 thatthe beautiful 15th-centurypaintings were revealed.

    Saskias GraveAmong the great and the

    good buried here is Saskiavan Uylenburgh, Rembrandtsfirst wife, who died in 1642.Her grave is number 29K inthe Weitkopers Kapel.

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    For more Amsterdam churches See pp423

    The Iconoclasm of1566In the 1566 Iconoclasm,or Beeldenstorm precursor to theAlteration of 1578 (seep21) when the citybecame Protestant the Calvinists lootedCatholic churches anddestroyed theirtreasures, among themthe Oude Kerkspictures, altars andstatues. Only the ceilingpaintings and stainedglass were spared, asthey were out of reach.The Calvinists alsodisapproved of thebeggars and pedlarswho gathered in thechurch, and threw themout, ending its role as acity meeting place.

    Red Door into the Old SacristyRembrandt passed through this door

    to announce his marriage. Marry in haste,repent at leisure is inscribed above it.

    Decorated PillarsRelics of the period

    before 1578, these pillarsonce supported niches forstatues of the Apostlesdestroyed in the Icono-clasm, and were paintedto look like brocade, sincethe real thing was tooexpensive, and unsuitedto the humid atmosphere.

    MisericordsThe 15th-century

    misericords helped chor-isters take the weight offtheir feet (left). They aredecorated with charmingcarvings illustrating trad-itional Dutch proverbs.

    SpireFrom the graceful

    late-Gothic spire, built byJoost Bilhamer in 1565,there are splendid viewsover the Oude Zijde. Thetower contains a 47-bellcarillon, a 17th-centuryaddition which rings outevery Saturday afternoon.

    Stained Glass ofthe Burgemeesters

    The colourful stained glasswindows flanking thechancel depict the arms ofthe city burgomastersfrom 1578 to 1807 (left).One was designed by DeAngeli in 1758; the otherby Pieter Jansz in 1654.

    Little OrganAttractively painted shutters form the original

    casing (1658) however, the pipework was replacedin 1965. Tuned as it would have been before 1700,early music can now be part of the repertoire.

    Plan of the Oude Kerk

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    There is no caf;head for nearbyNieuwe Spiegelstraator Utrechtsestraatfor a good choice.

    Serene and elegant,the Museum VanLoon makes a perfectvisit for adults, but isnot so well suited toyoung children.

    Keizersgracht 672 Map E5 020 624 5255 www.museumvanloon.nl Open 11am5pmFriMon, TueThu byappointment Admission 5;concessions 4 Guided tours onrequest

    Step back into the 18th century at this delightful canal house on Keizersgracht,which has been the property of the prestigious Van Loon family (co-foundersof the Dutch East India Company, later bankers and royal courtiers) since1884. In the 1970s, the family opened it to the public, having painstakinglyrestored it to its appearance in the 1750s, when it was owned by Dr Abrahamvan Hagen and his heiress wife Catharina Trip. It is beautifully furnished withVan Loon family possessions throughout.

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    1 The Building2 The Staircase 3 The Family Portraits4 The Wedding Portrait5 The Garden 6 The Dining Service7 The Gold Coin Collection8 The Painted Room9 The Romantic Double

    Portrait0 The Kitchen

    Faade of the Museum Van Loon

    Museum Van Loon

    The BuildingIn 1672, Jeremias

    van Raey built two largehouses on Keizersgracht.One he occupied himself,the other No. 672, nowthe Museum Van Loon he rented to Rembrandtsmost famous pupil,Ferdinand Bol.

    The StaircaseThe balustrade was

    installed by Dr Van Hagen,who had his and his wifesnames incorporated intothe ornate brass work.When the canals ceasedto freeze over regularly,the 18th-century sledgein the hall found a newuse as a plant stand.

    TheFamily

    PortraitsPortraits ofthe VanLoon familyare displayedthroughout the house.

    The Wedding PortraitJan Molenaers first major

    commission in Amsterdamportrays the whole family. Itsa second marriage: the brideholds her stepsons hand in anact of acceptance, while thefallen chair symbolizes thegrooms deceased brother.

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    Museum GuideVisitors are welcomedas guests in a privatehouse and encouragedto wander around freely.They are allowed towalk on the carpets andnothing is roped off.Temporary exhibitionsof modern art andsculpture are often ondisplay in both thehouse and garden.

    The GardenLaid out in the 1970s

    according to a plan of theproperty of 1700, thepeaceful garden ends inthe false Neo-Classicalfaade of the coachhouse (below). Lookcarefully and you will seethat the upstairs windowsare in fact painted, prettycurtains and all.

    The Dining ServiceRare 18th-century

    Dutch porcelain and 19th-century Limoges waregrace the dining room.

    The Gold CoinCollection

    Over the centuries, fiveVan Loon couples havecelebrated their goldenwedding; each had goldcoins specially minted.

    The PaintedRoom

    Painted wallpapers suchas these, featuring ruins,Classical buildings andhuman figures, were verypopular in the 1700s.

    The Romantic DoublePortrait

    Painted by J F A Tischbein in1791, this intimate, relaxed por-trait of these Van Loon ancest-ors is typical of the Age ofEnlightenment, conveying loveand happiness as well as duty.

    The Kitchen Cosy and inviting,the basement kitchen

    has been recentlyrestored to look as it didin a photograph of 1900.

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  • There is a pleasant,airy caf, with agreat view of theWesterkerk.

    Arrive early or late inthe day; there areusually long queues.

    Be careful as youmove round thehouse: the stairs aresteep and narrow.

    The visit is a movingexperience, so plansomething contem-plative afterwards:climb the Westerkerkspire, or walk to theWestern Islands.

    Faade of No. 263Prinsengracht

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    Prinsengracht 263(entrance at 267) Map L2 020 556 7100 www.annefrank.nl Open SepMar: 9am7pm daily; AprAug:9am9pm daily. ClosedYom Kippur Admission adults7.50; children 10173.50; children under 10 free No disabled access

    This deeply moving museum tells a tragic story. When in 1942 the Germansbegan to round up Jews in Amsterdam, the Frank and Van Pels families wentinto hiding. For 25 months, they hid in a secret annexe in Otto Franksbusiness premises on Prinsengracht, now the Anne Frankhuis. In August 1944,they were betrayed and deported. Only Otto survived. The diary of his daughter,Anne, who died in Bergen-Belsen concentration camp in March 1945 at theage of 15, has made her one of the most inspiring figures of the 20th century.

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    1 The Warehouse2 The Offices3 The Moveable Bookcase4 The Secret Annexe5 Annes Room6 The Chestnut Tree7 The Front Attic8 The Diary Room9 Educational Resources0 The Exhibition Room

    Anne Frankhuis

    The WarehouseOtto Frank ran a

    business making pectinfor jam, and spice andherb mixtures. Theannexe in which the families hid was over hiswarehouse, so they hadto keep quiet for fear thatthe warehouse workerswould hear them.

    The OfficesVisitors continue

    upstairs to the offices ofOtto Frank and the staffwho helped to hide himand his family, along withOttos business partner,Hermann Van Pels, andhis wife and son. InAnnes diary, the Van Pelsbecame the Van Daans.

    The MoveableBookcase

    To camouflage theentrance to the annexe,

    one of the helpers madea swinging bookcase. As

    Anne wrote, no onecould ever suspect thatthere could be so many

    rooms hidden behind

    The Secret AnnexeThe claustrophobic

    rooms in which the eightlived have been left unfurn-ished, as they were whenthe Germans cleared theirpossessions after theirarrest. On one wall, pencilmarks record the growth ofAnne and her sister Margot.

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    For more Jewish sights in Amsterdam See pp489

    Anne Franks DiaryOn the day the familywere taken away, MiepGies found Annes diary.With the words here isyour daughter Anneslegacy to you, she handedit to Otto Frank on hisreturn from Auschwitz. Heprepared a transcript, andthe diary was published togreat acclaim in theNetherlands in 1947, and in Britain and the UnitedStates in 1952. It has sincebeen published in morethan 60 languages. Over800,000 people visit themuseum each year.

    Annes RoomAfter a while,

    Margot moved in withher parents, and Annehad to share her roomwith a new memberof the group, a dentistcalled Fritz Pfeffer inAnnes estimation, avery nice man. Annesfilm-star pin-ups arestill up on the wall.

    The Chestnut TreeSome years ago, when

    this tree was dying, theauthorities paid a smallfortune to have it preservedbecause it was a favouriteof Annes.

    The Front AtticIn a moving display, the

    fate of each member of thegroup unfolds. Anne andMargot died a month beforeBergen-Belsen was liberated.

    The Diary RoomAs well as the now

    famous red-checked diary,which she kept every day,Anne wrote short storiesand ideas for novels. Astime went on, she beganto edit her original diarywith a book called TheSecret Annexe in mind.

    MultimediaIn the musuems

    multimedia space,visitors can go on avirtual journeythrough the SecretAnnexe to find outmore on the people inhiding and on WorldWar II.

    The ExhibitionRoom

    The Anne Frankhuispromotes racialtolerance througheducation. After thetour, visitors can partic-ipate in a video present-ation on related issues.

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    There are cafs inMadame Tussauds,De Bijenkorf and theNieuwe Kerk thelatter with a terraceoverlooking the Dam.

    Go to one of theconcerts, lectures orexhibitions held atthe Nieuwe Kerk.

    Map M3, N3 Koninklijk Paleis: openFebJun & SepNov:12:305pm TueThu; lateJunmid-Sep: 11am5pmdaily (check website:www.koninklijkhuis.nl).020 620 4060.Admission: adults 4.50;children 616 3.60;under 6s free Nieuwe Kerk: onlyopen during exhibitions.020 638 6909.Admission charge Madame TussaudsScenerama: Peek &Cloppenburg Building.020 522 1010. OpenSepJun: 10am5:30pmdaily; JulAug:9:30am6:30 pm daily.Admission: adults 175922.50, over 60s 17.50,children 516 10; under5s free

    The very heart of Amsterdam, Dam Square or the Dam, as the locals call it marks the site of the original 13th-century dam on the Amstel river (seep11). An architectural parade spanning six centuries includes the gloriousNieuwe Kerk and the Koninklijke Paleis. By the 17th century, with the townhall here and the Exchange nearby, the Dam had become the focus ofAmsterdams political and commercial life. The passage of years may haveeroded some of its grandeur but certainly none of its colour or its vitality.

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    Top 10 Sights

    1 Koninklijk Paleis2 Nieuwe Kerk3 Nationaal Monument4 Madame Tussauds

    Scenerama5 Damrak6 De Bijenkorf7 Rokin8 Kalverstraat9 Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky0 Street Performances and

    Events

    A horse and trap near theNationaal Monument

    Dam Square

    Koninklijk PaleisBuilt as the town hall,

    Jacob van Campensunsmiling Classical edificesymbolizes the civic powerof 17th-century Amsterdam(above). It is still used forstate occasions (see p39).

    Nieuwe KerkNow a cultural centre,

    the Nieuwe Kerk hashosted royal events since1814. Its treasures includea Jacob van Campenorgan and an elaboratelycarved pulpit by AlbertVinckenbrinck (see p42).

    NationaalMonument

    This 22 m (70 ft) obeliskcommemorates the Dutchkilled in World War II (above& centre). Embedded in thewall behind are urns con-taining soil from the Dutchprovinces and colonies.

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    For more Amsterdam churches See pp423

    Inside theKoninklijk Paleis The ponderous exteriorbelies the magnificentinterior especially thedramatic Burgerzaal(Citizens Chamber). Seefine sculptures by ArtusQuellien and RomboutVerhulst, ceilings andfriezes by Rembrandtspupils, and Empire furn-iture of Louis Napoleon.The Vierschaar (Tribunal)is a macabre room, stillintact, where judgesmeted out tough andoften terminal justice.

    MadameTussauds

    SceneramaDisplays at this out-post of the Londonwaxworks rangefrom the fascinatingto the bizarre.Special effects, inc-luding animatronics,bring to life scenesfrom Hollands past.

    DamrakDamrak was

    once the medievalcitys busiest canal,with ships sailingup to be unloadedat the Dam. In 1672the canal was filledin, and Damrakdeveloped into thehectic shoppingstreet it is today.

    De BijenkorfAmsterdams best-

    known department storehas a vast perfumery,designer fashion bouti-ques and much more.

    RokinThe Rokin had its

    heyday in the 19th cen-tury, when its broadsweep was a promenadefor the well-to-do.

    KalverstraatMusic shops jostle

    for space with tackyclothes stores at theDam end of this ped-estrian shopping street.Grand Hotel

    KrasnapolskyAdolf Wilhelm Krasnapol-sky, an emigr Polishtailor with ambition,rented the down-at-heelNieuwe Poolsche Koffie-huis in the 1870s, swiftlytransforming it into afashionable hotel (below).

    StreetPerformances

    and EventsBusking, mime, funfairs,book fairs, exhibitions,concerts such thingshave gone on in the Damsince J Cabalt introducedhis puppet show in 1900.

    Plan of Dam Square

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    Left The Arrival of Napoleon at Dam Square Right German wartime propaganda poster

    Moments in Amsterdams History

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    c.1125: First SettlersFishermen settled at the

    mouth of the Amstel river, build-ing huts on man-made moundscalled terps for flood protection.With the growth of the newsettlement came feudal conflictbetween the self-made Countsof Holland and Lords van Amstel.

    1275: Freedom from TollsIn the earliest document to

    refer to Amsterdam, Count FlorisV of Holland granted its citizensexemption from tolls whentransporting their goods by riveracross his territoryat The Hague.

    1345: Miracleof Amsterdam

    At a house in Kalver-straat, a priest gavea dying man the lastsacraments. He wasunable to keep downthe communion wafer, soit was thrown on thefire. Next morning, thewafer was found intact amongthe embers. News of the miraclespread, and Amsterdam soonbecame a place of pilgrimage.

    1566 and 1578:Iconoclasm and Alteration

    As Protestantism swept northernEurope, Dutch Calvinists rebelledagainst their intolerant SpanishCatholic ruler, Philip II. In theBeeldenstorm or Iconoclasm, theCalvinists stormed the Catholicchurches and destroyed their

    religious artifacts. The city finallybecame Protestant, in a peacefulrevolution known as the Alteratieor Alteration (see p21).

    1609: Plans for theGrachtengordel

    The dawn of the Golden Age,when the arts flourished inAmsterdam (see p27), sawambitious plans for a triple canalring around the city (see p11). Herengracht, Keizersgracht andPrinsengracht were built in twostages, starting in 1613 and 1663.

    163437:Tulipmania

    The Dutch passion fortulips dates from thelate 16th century, whenthe first bulbs wereimported from Asia. In 1634, the tulip was

    quoted on the Stock Ex-change, and speculation

    began. Fortunes were madeovernight as the crazeled to spectacular price

    increases; the inevitable crashcaused scores of bankruptcies.

    1806: Kingdom of theNetherlands Established

    After the formation of theBatavian Republic in 1795, rulewas shared between the invadingFrench and the Dutch Patriots. In1806, Napoleon Bonaparte tookover the Republic, created theKingdom of the Netherlands andinstalled his brother, LouisNapoleon, as head of state.

    Miracle of Amsterdam

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    Wedding of the Crown Prince

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    Top 10 HistoricCharacters

    William of OrangeWilliam the Silent

    (153384) led the Protestantrebellion against Philip II. Hewas assassinated.

    Willem Barentsz This explorer (155097)

    failed to discover the north-east passage but left behindinvaluable maps.

    Frederik Hendrik An effective politician,

    William of Oranges youngestson (15841647) becameStadhouder in 1625.

    Pieter Stuyvesant Stuyvesant (15921672)

    was Governor of the colony ofNieuw Amsterdam, later to beNew York, from 164664.

    Abel Tasman In search of trade routes

    to South America, Tasman(1603c.1659) discoveredTasmania and New Zealand.

    Michiel de Ruyter This revered Dutch

    admiral (160776) set fire to the English fleet in theMedway in 1667.

    Jan de Witt A leading politician in the

    Anglo-Dutch Wars (162572),he was killed by a mob.

    William III William (16501702) was

    Stadhouder from 1672 untilhis promotion to King ofEngland in 1688.

    Louis Napoleon Brother of Napoleon I,

    Louis (17781846) was Kingof the Netherlands between1806 and 1810.

    Johan Thorbecke Liberal Prime Minister

    Johan Rudolf Thorbecke(17981872) was architect of the 1848 Constitution.

    194045: GermanOccupation

    Despite Dutch neutrality,Germany invaded Holland in May 1940. With the deportationof Jews to concentration campsfrom 1942 onwards, the DutchResistance became active andunderground newspapersthrived. Canadian troops liber-ated Amsterdam on 5 May 1945.

    Mid-1960s: ProvoDemonstrations

    The radical Provo movement tookoff in the 1960s, fuelled byantagonism to the citys transportand housing policies. Streetdemonstrations turned into full-scale rioting on 10 March 1966,the day of Princess Beatrixswedding to German aristocratClaus von Amsberg. The Provoswon seats on the city council, buttheir popularity was short-lived.

    2002: Wedding of theCrown Prince

    On 2 February 2002, CrownPrince Willem-Alexander marriedMxima Zorreguieta in theNieuwe Kerk, followed by areception in the KoninklijkePaleis. After a difficult start, dueto her fathers involvement withthe Videla regime in Argentina,Mxima won the hearts of theDutch public.

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    Left Rijksmuseum Right Nederlands Scheepvaart Museum

    Museums

    Amsterdams Historisch Museum

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    RijksmuseumThe worlds greatest

    collection of 17th-century Dutchart is housed in this grandmunicipal art museum and theres so muchmore to see besides(see pp1215).

    Van GoghMuseum

    The permanent homefor hundreds of worksby this troubled artistalso displays work byhis contemporaries(see pp1619).

    AmsterdamsHistorisch

    MuseumFirst a convent, then the cityorphanage, now a wonderfulmuseum charting the history ofAmsterdam and, in particular, itsmeteoric rise during the GoldenAge (see pp247).

    Museum AmstelkringThe 17th-century domestic

    interiors would be fascinating inthemselves, but the astonishing

    thing about thishistoric canal house isthe secret Catholicchurch hidden on itsupper floors (seepp201).

    StedelijkMuseum

    At time of writing,the national museumof modern art, in itsspecially designedbuilding by A WWeissman, is closedfor major renovationwork it is due to

    reopen in 2005. Until then, partof its dynamic collection, whichincludes works by Matisse,Chagall, Picasso, Mondriaan, deKooning and Gerrit Rietveld, willbe displayed in temporaryexhibitions at the old TPG Postbuilding, Oosterdokskade 3 (Map R2).

    Anne FrankhuisThis world-famous yet

    movingly simple museum isdedicated to the young diaristwho hid here from the Naziswith her family (see pp323).

    Museum Van LoonAnother canal-house-turned-

    museum, the Van Loon recreateshigh-society life in the 18thcentury (see pp3031).

    Stedelijk Museum

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    Museum Willet-Holthuysen

    Like the Museum VanLoon, the Willet-Holthuysen affords arare glimpse inside agrand canal house and into the lives ofthe wealthymerchants who livedthere. Built in 1685,the interior isdecorated in 18th-century style. A mildsense of melancholy pervadesthe building (see p107).

    Nederlands ScheepvaartMuseum

    Holding the largest collection ofboats in the world, and crammedwith fascinating objects, theNederlands Scheepvaart becamea museum in 1973, when theDutch Navy vacated the building.Solid and four-square, DanielStalpaerts imposing classical-style arsenal was built for theAdmiralty in 1656 during theGolden Age of Dutch maritimehistory. Among the museums

    Museum Het Rembrandthuis

    treasures are weapons, paintingsand meticulously accuratemodels (see p123). The museumwill be closed for renovationfrom late 2005 until 2007.

    Museum HetRembrandthuis

    Completely restored to look as itdid in Rembrandts day, thishandsome red-shuttered housewas the artists home during hisyears of prosperity (163958).Entering the rooms is a little likestepping into a painting: they aretypical Dutch interiors with black-and-white tiled floors, traditional

    box beds, and paint-ings by Rembrandtscontemporaries.Perhaps the two mostfascinating sightshere are therecreation of hisstudio, and the room in a new wing devoted to hismagical etchings,many of which showhis compassion forthe common people:quacksalver, pancakewoman, beggars,street musicians. Avideo about therecent restorationwork is shown in thebasement (see p77).

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    Churches

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    Oude KerkThe oldest and greatest of

    Amsterdams churches(see pp28-9).

    Nieuwe KerkThe second parish

    church in Amsterdam wasbuilt after the congregationoutgrew the Oude Kerk.Burnt down several times,its oldest part is the choir,dating from around 1400(see pp34, 83).

    WesterkerkAfter the Alteration of

    1578 (see p21), the firstDutch Protestant churches to bebuilt were the Zuiderkerk, theNoorderkerk and the Westerkerk all designed by Hendrick deKeyser. The Westerkerk has thecitys tallest tower, topped bythe gaily painted imperial crownof Maximilian of Austria (see p91).

    ZuiderkerkThe splendid spire, with its

    columns, clocks,pinnacles and oniondome, was muchadmired by SirChristopher Wren, andis still a prominent citylandmark, even thoughthe Zuiderkerk ceasedto function as a churchin 1929. Today it is aninformation centre forurban development. dZuiderkerkhof 72 Map P4 Church open 11am4pmMon, 9am4pm TueFri,9am8pm Thu. Free Tower

    open Jun-Sep: 24pm WedSat.Admission charge

    NoorderkerkHendrick de Keysers last

    church, begun a year before hedied in 1621, is quite different instyle. Built for the poor of theJordaan, it is an austere brickbuilding with only the shortest ofspires. Designed on a GreekCross plan, it has a central pulpitand four hipped roofs. dNoordermarkt 4448 Map D2 Open11am1pm Sat (and regular afternoonconcerts), 10:30am12:30pm Mon Free

    Engelse KerkIn the middle of the

    Begijnhof, the pretty EnglishReform Church got its namefrom the English (and Scottish)Presbyterians who worshippedthere after it was requisitioned in 1578 (see pp22-3).

    Zuiderkerk

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    De KrijtbergLike many Catholic churches

    in Amsterdam, De Krijtberg(meaning Chalk Mountain) isknown by its nickname ratherthan its official name, FranciscusXaveriuskerk (after St FrancisXavier, a founding Jesuit monk);designed in 1884 by Alfred Tepe,it replaced a clandestine Jesuitchapel (see p21). Its animpressive building, with anelegant, twin-steepled Neo-Gothic faade and an ornateinterior that stands in markedcontrast to the austerity of thecitys Protestant churches. dSingel 448 Map M5 Open 1:305pmTueThu and 30 mins before services:12:30pm & 5:45pm MonFri; 12:30pm& 5:15pm Sat; 9:30am, 11am, 12:30pm& 5:15pm Sun Free

    Mozes en AronkerkHere, the nickname comes

    from two gablestones depictingMoses and Aron on the housefronts that hid a clandestinechurch within. It was replaced in 1841 by the present Neo-Classical building, its towersinspired by St Sulpice in Paris. d Waterlooplein 205 Map Q5

    St Nicolaaskerk Dedicated to the

    patron saint of sea-farers, the churchwas commissionedby the congregationof Ons Lieve Heerop Solder (seepp2021). A C Bleys,the architect, cameup with a Neo-Renaissance building.d Prins Hendrikkade 76 Map Q1 Open noon3pmMon & Sat; 11am4pmTueFri; mass 12:30pmMonSat; 10:30am, 1pm(Spanish) Sun Free

    Waalse KerkThis church founded in

    1409 is all that is left of theconvent of St Paul. Its namemeans Walloon Church, areference to the Low Countries(now Belgium), from whereHuguenots fled the Catholicterror to seek refuge inAmsterdam. In 1586 they weregiven use of the Waalse Kerk sothat they could continue theirworship in French. It has ahistoric organ dating from 1680,renovated in 1734 by masterorgan builder Christian Mller. dOudezijds Achterburgwal 159 Map P4

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    St Nicolaas Kerk

  • SchreierstorenThe Schreierstoren (Tower

    of Tears) is one of Amsterdamsoldest buildings (see p10) asurviving fragment of themedieval city wall. d PrinsHendrikkade 945 Map Q2

    Int AepjenOne of two

    remaining wood-frontedhouses in Amsterdam(see p22), Int Aepjenwas built in 1550 as asailors hostel, and isnow a bar. The namemeans In themonkeys: when sailorscouldnt pay, they wouldbarter sometimeswith pet monkeys. dZeedijk 1 Map P2

    Oostindisch Huis Seen from the courtyard, the

    impressive red-brick faade, withits ornate entrance and stone-dressed windows, was theheight of corporate fashion.

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    Headquarters of the once mightyDutch East India Company (VOC),it was built in 1605, probably byHendrick de Keyser, and is nowpart of Amsterdam University. The17th-century meeting room of theVOC lords has been restored. dOude Hoogstraat 24 Map P4 Open9am5pm TueWed (meeting room)

    De GooyerWindmill

    If you are lucky, youmight see the vast,streamlined sails of this18th-century corn millcreak into motion. Builtin 1725, the wholeoctagonal structure waspainstakingly moved toits present site in 1814.d Funenkade 5 Map H4

    PintohuisNow a public

    library, the Pintohuis is namedafter the Portuguese merchantIsaac de Pinto, who paid anexorbitant 30,000 guilders for itin 1651. d Sint Antoniesbreestraat 69 Map Q4 020 624 3184 Open28pm Mon & Wed, 25pm Fri,11am2pm Sat

    TrippenhuisJustus Vingboons grandiose

    faade with false middle windows(1662) concealed the two separatehomes of the powerful Tripbrothers arms dealers, hencethe pair of chimneys resemblingcannons. d Kloveniersburgwal 29 Map P4

    De Gooyer Windmill

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    Top 10 ArchitecturalFeatures

    Triangular GableThis simple triangular-

    shaped gable can be seen onHet Houten Huis (see p22).

    Bell GableFashionable in the late

    17th and 18th centuries, bell-shaped gables can be flam-boyant (Prinsengracht 126) orunadorned (Leliegracht 57).

    Neck GableMade popular by Philips

    Vingboons, this gable has araised centrepiece; OudeTurfmarkt 145 is an example.

    Spout GableThis plain triangular gable

    topped by a spout was usedfor warehouses, like those atEntrepotdok (see p123).

    Step GableCommon from 1600 to

    1665, this gable has steps onboth sides: Huis op de drieGrachten has three (see p79).

    Wall PlaqueBefore numbering was

    introduced, houses wereidentified by plaques (see p23).

    Claw PieceSculptures frequently of

    dolphins were made to fillthe right angles of gables, asin Oudezijds Voorburgwal 119.

    MaskThis type of Renaissance

    decoration depicts a human oranimal face, and can be seenat Oudezijds Voorburgwal 57.

    CornicesFrom 1690, gables fell out

    of vogue and decorative topmouldings came in: examplesline the Herengracht.

    Pediment CarvingsCarvings often decorate

    the triangular or rounded formabove doorways: see the FelixMeritis Building (see p57).

    Westindisch HuisThe city of New York was con-

    ceived in the Dutch West IndiaCompany building, and PieterStuyvesants statue still surveysthe courtyard (see p39). Built in1615, its classical proportions belieits origins as a meat market. dHaarlemmerstraat 75 Map D2

    Paleis van JustitieThis sober, monumental

    building in Empire style is aconversion of the AlmonersOrphanage by city architect Jande Greef. d Prinsengracht 4346 Map K6

    Greenpeace BuildingGerrit van Arkels eye-

    catching 1905 building is a fineexample of Nieuwe Kunst, theDutch version of Art Nouveau.Built for an insurance company, itis now the world headquarters ofthe environmental campaignerGreenpeace. d Keizersgracht 1746 Map L2

    ScheepvaarthuisDesigned as shipping

    company offices by van der Mey,de Klerk and Kramer, this fancifulbuilding (1916) is smothered innautical whimsy mariners,monsters, and mermaids. d PrinsHendrikkade 108 Map Q2

    Scheepvaarthuis

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    Left Allegory of Painting by Vermeer Right Wheatfield with Crows by Van Gogh

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    For more on Dutch paintings See pp1219

    Jan van ScorelAfter prolonged stays in

    Germany, Venice and Rome,where he studied the works ofGiorgione, Michelangelo andRaphael, Jan Van Scorel(14951562) returned to Utrechtin 1524. He introduced thetechniques of theRenaissance to theNorthern Netherlands;his portraits fuseItalian solidity ofform withNetherlandishdelicacy.

    Rembrandtvan Rijn

    The greatest artistof the Dutch GoldenAge (see p15).

    Frans HalsMuch loved for his

    technique of capturing characterand fleeting expression in hissitters, Frans Hals (15801666)brought a new realism toportraiture in the 17th century. Hisfine group portraits of civic guardsare displayed in the Frans HalsMuseum in Haarlem (see p72).

    Johannes VermeerRelatively little is known

    about the life of this sublimeDelft artist (163275), whoinherited his fathers art-dealingbusiness and painted purely forpleasure. He gained somerecognition in Holland during hislifetime, but his importance was

    not established until the late19th century, and rests on lessthan 40 known works mainlydomestic interiors with figures that are extraordinary in theirhandling of space, light andcolour. He was married with 11children. On his death, his wife

    was declared bankrupt, andhis baker kept two of his

    paintings againstunpaid bills.

    Jan SteenA prolific

    painter of the genre(everyday) scenesso popular in theDutch 17th century,

    Jan Steen (162579)was an innkeeper as

    well as an artist. Hisoften bawdy tavern and

    household narrativeswere packed with

    hidden messages (red stockingsfor prostitution, oysters forsexual liaison, broken eggshellsfor mortality), creating allegorieswith a moral purpose.

    Jacob van RuisdaelBorn in Haarlem, Jacob van

    Ruisdael (16291682), thoughnot highly regarded in his ownday, has come to be seen as oneof the finest landscape andseascape painters of the Dutchschool. His works are filled withrestless skies and naturalisticdetails. Even calm scenes suchas The Windmill at Wijk have asense of dramatic grandeur.

    Self Portrait at a Young Ageby Rembrandt

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    Children with Dog by Karel Appel

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    Top 10 Dutch LiteraryFigures

    Desiderius Erasmus Scholar and humanist

    (14661536). Friend of ThomasMore, no friend of Luther.

    Hugo Grotius Statesman and

    philosopher (15831645).Author of De Jure Belli etPacis, the foundation stone of international law.

    Gerbrant Bredero Satirical poet and play-

    wright (15851618), bestknown for De SpaanseBrabander.

    Joost van den Vondel Important playwright and

    poet (15861679) famed forhis ornate style. Author ofGijsbrecht van Amstel.

    Jan Six Poet, playwright (1618

    1700) and friend of Rembrandt,who painted his portrait.

    Baruch Spinoza Philosopher (163277)

    expelled by AmsterdamsJewish community for hissecular beliefs.

    Multatuli Pen name of Eduard

    Douwes Dekker (182087),whose work in colonial Javainspired his best-known novelMax Havelaar.

    Anne Frank Teenage victim (192944)

    of the Holocaust. Her eloquentdiary has sold in its millions.

    Gerard Reve Novelist (b.1923) strongly

    influenced by his Catholicismand his homosexuality.

    Cees Nooteboom Prolific man of letters

    (b.1933) whose fiction is atbest observant and poignant,at worst experimental andelusive.

    Pieter ClaeszAs well as portraits, genre

    paintings and landscapes, still liveshad an important place in Dutch17th-century art. Peter Claesz(15971661) reached a peak oftechnical skill in his harmonious ifacademic compositions, which arereplete with symbolic detail.

    Vincent van GoghA troubled genius who left a

    vast body of work, despite histragically short life (see p19).

    Piet MondriaanAlthough he lived in London,

    Paris and New York (and few ofhis works are on show inAmsterdam), Mondriaan wasborn and grew up in Holland(18721944). A leading memberof the De Stijl movement, hecreated an abstract style usingthe simplest elements: straightlines and blocks of primarycolour, arranged on the canvas tocreate harmony and balance.

    Karel AppelBorn in 1921, Karel Appel

    was one of the founders of theCobra movement, started in1948, which combinedexpressionist, abstract andsurrealist influences (see p128).His colourful works display asavage, forceful directnesscombined with an almost childlikeoptimism. I paint like a barbarianin a barbarous age, he said.

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    Left Joods Historisch Museum Right Jodenbuurt

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    Anne FrankhuisThe plight of Jews like the

    Franks, forced into hiding by theNazis, was brought to light byAnnes poignant diary; the housewhere they hid for 25 months isnow a museum (see pp323).

    Joods HistorischMuseum

    This remarkable museumrepresents all aspects ofJudaism and the historyand culture of the Jewswho settled in theNetherlands. On showare some marvellouspaintings by Jewish artists,fascinating displays about thediamond industry, andexhibits that bring homethe true horror of theHolocaust (see p78).

    Portugees-Isralitische

    Synagoge Inspired by the Temple ofSolomon in Jerusalem, EliasBoumans bulky red-bricksynagogue is still the core of thesmall Sephardic community forwhom it was built in 1675. Themassive wooden barrel-vaultedceiling is lit by more than 1,000candles (see p78).

    JodenbuurtWhen the Jews arrived in

    Amsterdam in the late 16thcentury, they moved into alacklustre area to the east ofOude Zijde, around present-day

    Waterlooplein. Although severalsynagogues, diamond factoriesand street markets have surviv-ed, the heart of the Jodenbuurtwas decimated by post-warredevelopment and the buildingof the Metro. d Map Q5

    De Dokwerker Mari Andriessens evoc-

    ative bronze statue (1952) isa memorial to the dockersand transport workersstrike of February 1941over the arrest of 450Jews for the killing of

    a Nazi sympathizer. Theevent is commemoratedevery 25 February. d JonasDaniel Meijerplein Map Q5

    HollandscheSchouwburg

    Jewish families wererounded up at this

    operetta theatre before beingtransported to the death camps.A moving memorial and a smallexhibition of memorabilia keeptheir memory alive (see p125).

    De Dokwerker

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    Top 10 JewishHistorical Events

    1592 onwardsSephardic Jews from

    Portugal and Spain, fleeingthe Inquisition, settle inAmsterdam, attracted by thecitys religious tolerance.

    1630sAshkenazi Jews start to

    arrive from eastern Europe(mainly Poland and Germany).

    1796Jews are given equal civil

    rights during NapoleonsBatavian Republic.

    1860Drawn to Amsterdam by

    its new industries and housing,Jews emigrate from Antwerp.

    19327These years see the rise

    of the Dutch Nazi Party underAnton Mussert; they also seewaves of Jewish immigrationfrom Hitlers Germany.

    1941In February, nine months

    into the German Occupation,the dockworkers strike inprotest at the arrest andround-up of 450 Jews.

    1942The deportation of the

    Jews to Nazi death campsbegins. Many Jews, includingAnne Franks family, go intohiding. Of the 80,000 living inpre-war Amsterdam, only5,000 will survive the war.

    1945Amsterdam is liberated by

    Canadian troops on 5 May.

    1947Anne Franks diary is

    published (see pp323).

    1975Violent protests break out

    against the destruction of theJodenbuurt the old JewishQuarter in the Nieuwmarkt.

    Tuschinski TheaterThis extraordinary 1921

    theatre was the creation of itsobsessive owner, AbrahamTuschinski, a Jewish emigr whodied at Auschwitz. The sump-tuous interior crosses Art Decowith the Orient (see p108).

    Ravensbrck MemorialDedicated to the women of

    Ravensbrck, one of the mostdisturbing of the citys Holocaustmemorials (1975) incorporates asinister soundtrack and eerilyflashing lights. d Museumplein Map C6

    VerzetsmuseumAmsterdam

    The Resistance Museumsbrilliant displays give a vividsense of life in an occupiedcountry, as well as an insightinto the ingenious activities ofthe Dutch Resistance. Exhibitsinclude photographs, heart-rending letters thrown fromdeportation trains, film clips androom sets (see p124).

    Nooit MeerIn stark contrast to its

    peaceful surroundings, JanWolkers Auschwitz memorialNever More features a slab ofshattered glass. The fragmentsreflect a distorted view of theheavens, mirroring the damagedone to humanity by the Holo-caust. d Wertheim Park Map R5

    Interior of the Tuschinski Theater

  • De JarenWood, air, glass and light

    seem the building elements ofthis spacious, multi-levelledgrand caf. Page through inter-national newspapers at thereading table, pile up your plateat the salad bar, or sun yourselfbeside the canal on one of thebest terraces in town. d NieuweDoelenstraat 20 Map N5

    De KroonWaiters in long white aprons

    glide beneath crystal chandeliersat the grandest of grand cafs, in the heart of Amsterdamsnight-life district. The glassed-inbalcony is a great late breakfastspot and things hot up at nighton Thursdays, Fridays andSaturdays with a live DJ. d Rembrandtplein 17 Map P6

    EngelbewaarderThe man at the next table

    may be writing a novel; thecouple across the way arguing

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    politics. An interesting, literaryclientele gives an edge to thisclassic brown caf. There mighteven be a jazz band playing, andsome locals swear that theFrench-fries you can have withyour beer are the best in town.d Kloveniersburgwal 59 Map P4

    HoppeThe dark wooden interior

    and tang of cigar smoke in theair are the very essence of theclassic brown caf. Pink-facedold men enjoying one too manyjenevers, smart young profess-ionals on the way home fromwork, friends meeting up forbeer and a gossip, populate thischeery Amsterdam institution. d Spui 18 Map M5

    Het Blauwe TheehuisThe Blue Teahouse in the

    middle of the Vondelpark is a1930s architectural treasure, atrendy night spot and a greatterrace caf all in one. Snack onwell-filled sandwiches under thetrees, dance the night away toDJs upstairs, or just stop by for acoffee on your walk through thepark. d Vondelpark 5 Map B6

    Land van WalemSip a champagne cocktail on

    the canal-side terrace, or show offyour latest designer wear to thefashionable crowd inside one ofAmsterdams most popular cafs.Piles of magazines and intriguingartworks help while away thetime. d Keizersgracht 449 Map L6

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    For more cafs See pp80, 81, 86, 87, 94, 97, 105, 113, 118, 119

    De ReigerDe Reiger is the king of the

    eetcafs. Join the contentedlocal clientele eating good food,knocking back the wine and justchatting. d Nieuwe Leliestraat 34 Map K2

    Spanjer & Van TwistAt this popular spot on one

    of the prettiest canals in townyoull find pleasant staff, afriendly, down-to-earth atmos-phere, good sandwiches andsalads, and a fine watersideterrace. d Leliegracht 60 Map L2

    Eerste KlasA station caf? If that gives

    you the horrors, think again. Aminute or two in this stunninglydecorated, classy 19th-centuryformer first-class waiting room,and youre transported back intime. Station bustle becomespart of the atmosphere thoughwhen youre back on theplatform, it comes as a shock tofind there are no steam trains. dPlatform 2b, Amsterdam Centraal Station,Stationsplein Map P1

    Twee ZwaantjesJoin in a jolly sing-along (the

    sort of happy, beery songs youfeel you know the words to evenif theyre in a foreign language),and have a drink with the real,pre-gentrification Jordanese. dPrinsengracht 114 Map L2

    Eerste Klas, Centraal Station

    Top 10 Types of CafBruin CafSnug, smoky and old-

    fashioned, these brown cafsare places for beer and gossip.

    Grand CafAlways grand in size,

    sometimes these cafs aregrand in style too.

    EetcafEetcaf means, unsurpris-

    ingly, Eat Caf, and eat isexactly what you do in one.Good cooking at a little belowrestaurant prices.

    Hip HangoutsSome cafs flash their

    designer credentials andattract a suitably hip andtrendy crowd.

    Music CafsLive music or top DJs

    make a good start to anevening of clubbing (seepp545).

    Games CafsDevotees of billiards,

    chess, darts or board gameswill find entire cafs givenover to single pursuits.

    Coffee & CakeSometimes theres no

    alcohol at all, just tea, coffeeand more calories than youdcare to mention.

    NachtcafsWhen all else is closed,

    these night cafs open theirdoors through the wee hours,though tread carefully somemay be a little seedy.

    Gay CafsFrom the stylish to the

    sweaty, Amsterdams famousgay cafs cater to all tastes.

    CoffeeshopsHere, intoxicants take a

    different form, and smokingrather than drinking is thepredominant activity.

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    Left Moko Right Getto

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    For more bars See pp80, 86, 87, 94, 97, 102, 110, 118

    MokoClassic designer chairs are

    so liberally scattered about thiship lounge bar that youd beexcused for thinking you hadwandered into a designmuseum. To reassure yourselfthat you havent, order up one ofthe home-flavoured fruit vodkas,enjoy a meal, or repair to thelarge, shady terrace beside thecanal, where you can escape theworld of fashion altogether. dAmstelveld 12 Map E5

    NoaIT wizards, followers of

    fashion, advertising executivesand other representatives of hip,young Amsterdam crowd in tothe place that set the trend forthe new lounge bar scene. Rubshoulders with all of the aboveas you knock back the drinks orslurp up Japanese noodle soupbefore heading off to party thenight away somwhere else. dLeidsegracht 84 Map K6

    Bar BepThis establishment is not

    your average hole in the wall. Itmay be tiny, but Bar Bep is ultrahip with a cool interior andequally cool regulars. Enjoy thespicy Asian snacks and themusic played by famous DJs. dNieuwezijds Voorburgwal 260 Map M3

    Winston InternationalOnce, the Winston was hip

    though seedy, but a major refit inrecent years has transformed itinto one of the hottest places intown a vortex for artists andmusicians. A young, creativecrowd comes here for the goodDJs, live music and generally go-getting atmosphere. Spot thenext generation of music stars,or just kick back and have a goodtime (see p55).

    De DuivelTiny, packed to the gills and

    very loud, The Devil attracts ayoung crowd from all over the

    world. Once upon atime the draw waship-hop and thechance of spotting afamous rap artiste atthe bar. Now, timeshave moved on, thepace has changed, and the music ismore likely to be on a classic funk tip. Get on down andshake your booty. d Reguliersdwarsstraat 87 Map N6

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    For a guide to restaurant prices See p81

    Wijnand FockinkProeflokalen, the tasting

    houses of local distilleries,were once places to knock backa quick jenever (Dutch gin)before re-emerging into thewinters air. Crooked and cosy,with wooden barrels lining thewalls, this one dates back nearly400 years. Drop in for a quickone. d Pijlsteeg 31 Map N3

    AdmiraalJoin knowledgeable

    Amsterdammers and curiousvisitors to try Dutch gin orgloriously sticky liqueurs at thisproeflokaal-cum-restaurant. Charm alocal by asking for atranslation of some ofthe odder liqueurnames (most areunprintable). dHerengracht 319 Map L4 020 625 4334

    GettoA haven of light

    and charm on theedge of Red Lightdistrict sleaze. Greatcocktails, big smilesand a mixed, attitude-free clientele are allpart of the magicformula. DJs, bingo

    evenings and other activitiesliven up the week and theres agood restaurant too. dWarmoesstraat 51b Map P2 020 421 5151

    Freddys BarNamed after the late Freddy

    Heineken (he of beer fame), whowas a frequent guest, this quietcity-centre classic, completewith piano music, leatherupholstery, soft lighting anddiscreetly friendly barman, isideal for a classy pre-dinnerdrink. Dress up, act suave, andbring someone you want toimpress. d Hotel De lEurope, NieuweDoelenstraat Map N5

    De KoeDownstairs, people are

    tucking in to good, basic food;upstairs, theyre shoulder toshoulder around the bar. Order abeer and youre instantly part ofa no-nonsense neighbourhoodbar atmosphere, with just atouch of merry mayhem, andeveryone aiming headlong at agood night out. d Marnixstraat 381 Map K6

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    Clubs

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    Arena HotelDating from 1890, this cool

    three-star hotel on the east sideof town was originally a RomanCatholic orphanage, and later an asylum. On Fridays and Saturdaysthe madness continues, whensome of Amsterdams top DJsspin at Tonight, the hotelsadjacent two-floor church-club.A bit of a trek if youre stayingcentrally, but worth the effort. ds Gravesandestraat 51 Map G5 020 850 2400

    EscapeOne of Amsterdams biggest

    and most exciting clubs, whichcan hold up to 2,000 people, hasa huge dance floor, hi-techlighting, a multi-mediaenvironment and, as you wouldexpect, a stunning soundsystem. At weekends it attractsa big out-of-town crowd. dRembrandtplein 1115 Map N6 020 622 1111 www.escape.nl

    MazzoWhether your taste is fat

    beats, drumnbass, hip hop,

    techno or electronic music, a variety of nights fromWednesday through Sundayensure that this relaxed andfriendly club caters to just aboutall tastes. If it doesnt cater toyours, pop across the road toMore (see below). d Rozengracht114 Map K3 020 626 7500

    MelkwegAs well as regular parties

    that take place throughout thevarious rooms of this multi-media venue, DJs play beforeand after the live bands thatappear on both stages. MostSaturdays there is a late-nightdance party. d Lijnbaansgracht234a Map K6 020 531 8181

    MoreLess definitely is more at

    this hip, minimalist hangout,owned by the proprietors of theSupperclub (see p86) andNomads, the equally decadent,Arabian-style restaurant locatedupstairs (see p103). Amsterdamsbeautiful people descend here atweekends but only when theyfeel like it. d Rozengracht 133 Map J3 020 528 7459

    NL-LoungeA free-entry lounge club

    with a plush, carpeted interior complete with armchairs. Itsopen daily, and delightfullydecadent, although the drinksare a little on the pricey side. dNieuwezijds Voorburgwal 169 MapM3 020 622 7510

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    0500 5001000 1000yards metres

    ParadisoFormerly a

    church, nowpredominantly a livemusic venue, DJsspin here after thebands have been on with an emphasison Alternative music.The programming forparties can be erratic anything fromMoroccan dancenights to cinema-clubevenings. d Wetering-schans 6-8 Map D5 020 626 4521

    PanamaMonied 30-somethings with

    a penchant for champagne makethe trek to this lavish, vaudevilletheatre-style club with attachedbar and restaurant on the eastside of town. Entry is expensive;the drinks arent cheap either. d Oostelijke Handelskade 4 Map G2 020 311 8686

    VakzuidThis stylish and spacious

    bar-club-restaurant is unusuallylocated within the grandstand ofthe stadium built for the 1928Olympic Games, hosted by

    Amsterdam. Relax in loungeheaven as you look out onto thetrack. In good weather, theoutdoor benches are unbeatable.d Olympisch Stadion 35 020 5708400

    Winston InternationalEclectic and inspired

    programming give this small,rococo-style venue an edge onthe citys other clubs. Easy-tuners with a taste for theunusual head here for SundaysVegas nights. An additional plus:it boasts the smallest art galleryin Amsterdam in its toilets. d Warmoesstraat 129 Map N3 020 623 1380

    Vakzuid

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    De BaliePoliticians, artists, writers

    and film directors all rubshoulders at this highbrowcultural-political centre offeringregular independent filmscreenings, lectures, debates,multi-media performances andexhibitions. Theres also aspacious caf, a restaurant (thelatter only open in the evenings),and enough reading material tokeep even the most demandingbookworm happy. d KleineGartmanplantsoen 10 Map C5 020 5535100

    Boom ChicagoOn a daily basis, this US

    comedy crew puts on satiricalshows whose targets areanything from Dutch quirks to topical news issues. Big onlaughs and big on beer. Thelatter, served in huge pitchers, isa welcome respite from the tinyfrothy-headed pilsjes. Star-watchers note: Burt Reynoldsonce popped in. d LeidsepleinTheater, Leidseplein 12 Map K6 020423 0101

    Cristofori SalonClassy classical

    recitals are heldwithin this private,plushly restoredconcert hall on theupper floors of theseformer 17th-centurycoffee and tobaccowarehouses. Namedafter the inventor of

    the piano, Italian BartolommeoCristofori, the repertoire regularlyextends to tango and jazz. dPrinsengracht 581583 Map K4 020626 8485

    CarrOriginally built as a circus

    theatre in 1894, circus troupesstill appear at this impressivelandmark on the banks of theAmstel along with anythingfrom opera to ballet, magiciansto music. Nothing beats sippingchampagne on the balconyoverlooking the river on a warmevening. d Amstel 115125 Map F5 0900 25 25 255

    ConcertgebouwThe crme de la crme of

    international musicians andconductors appear at this palatialclassical music venue one ofthe worlds most prestigious.Audrey Hepburn had a seasonticket when she lived here afterWorld War II, and its not hard tounderstand why. Dont miss thefree lunchtime concerts onWednesdays (see p115).

    Concertgebouw

  • Felix Meritis

    Felix MeritisIn 1777, the Felix Meritis

    society was founded to promotethe arts and sciences. Ten yearslater, its wealthy members hadthis canal house specially built.To this day it stages internationaldance performances, theatre,lectures and electronic mediaevents (see p100).

    Heineken Music HallAmsterdams second

    biggest live music venue (theArenA next door, home to Ajaxfootball team, is the biggest).Some distance from the centre,but worth it to catch the likes ofGarbage or The ChemicalBrothers. d Heineken Music Hall,ArenA Boulevard 590 0900 687 424 255

    KITTropentheater

    Eclectic worldmusic/theatreperformances areappropriately stagedin the theatre of thecitys tropicalmuseum (see p127).Some world cinemais also to be had though double-checkthe language thesubtitles are in! dMauritskade 63 /Linnaeusstraat 2 Map G5 020 568 8500

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    HetMuziektheater

    The Dutch royalsregularly pop in tocatch shows at thiscomfortable andonce controversial modern theatre,which is home to theNetherlands Operaand Ballet companies

    (see p78). Tickets for shows particularly opera can sell outmonths in advance, so itsadvisable to book before youtravel if you want to go. Inspiredprogramming gives contemporaryculture vultures an occasionallook-in Icelandic songstressBjrk even played here once. dAmstel 3 Map E4 020 625 5455

    StadsschouwburgThis Neo-Renaissance

    building both of whosepredecessors burned down houses the citys municipaltheatre. Local groups as well asvisiting companies tread theboards here. It's also host to theannual Julidans (July Dance)Festival. Regular English-languageperformances take place in theupstairs Bovenzaal. d Leidseplein26 Map K6 020 624 2311

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    Culinary Highlights

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    Maatjes HaringFresh raw herring, with

    chopped onion or gherkin, is soldas a snack from street stalls.Traditionally, you take your herringby the tail and toss it whole downyour throat, with your head heldback but the faint-hearted mayprefer them on a plate or in a roll.Best in May, when the groene(new seasons) herrings appear.

    Gerookte PalingA delicious Dutch speciality,

    paling (smoked eel) comes fromthe IJsselmeer. Served withwhite toast and a squeeze oflemon, it makes a perfect starter.

    KaasIn the Netherlands,

    a staggering 14 kg(31 lb) of cheeseper person isconsumed eachyear. Gouda andEdam are thebest known, butthere are others,such as Friesenagelkaas, a clovecheese whichbecame popular whenspices were first importedin the 17th century.

    BitterballenServed much like tapas to

    accompany drinks in a caf orbar, these deep-fried meatballshave a crunchy exterior and asoft meat filling. They are servedwith mustard.

    Hutspot The Dutch love affair with

    potatoes manifests itself in avariety of hearty winter dishes.Hutspot (meaning hotchpotch) is astew of braised beef and potatoesmashed with carrots, whilestamppot boerenkool consists ofmashed potato and cabbageflecked with chopped bacon andserved with smoked sausage.

    ErwtensoepLike raw herring, this pea

    soup is another Dutch favouritethat some foreigners find hard tolove, with a consistency akin towallpaper paste. Try it at Dorrius,which serves genuine Dutch food.

    d Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 5 Map N1

    RijsttafelA delicious

    culinary after-echo ofHollandscolonial past,Indonesian

    cuisine isusually eaten in

    the form of rijsttafel(rice table), a veritable

    feast consisting of asmany as 25 little dishes

    of meat, fish, vegetables andsauces (some very hot), centredaround a shared bowl of rice ornoodles. Amsterdam has severalgood Indonesian restaurants,including Kantijl en de Tijger andTujuh Maret (see p61). d Kantijlen de Tijger: Spuistraat 291 Map M4

    Erwtensoep

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    Top 10 DrinksPils The national drink of the

    Netherlands is beer. Pils topbrands Heineken and Grolsch is the lager-like beer served(with froth) in bars. The Dutchgenerally drink it from smallglasses, so it remains ice-coldto the last drop.

    WitbierWheat-brewed white beer

    is pale and cloudy oftenserved with a slice of lemon.

    BokbierA brown, sweet, winter

    beer served in round glasses.

    Jonge JeneverDutch gin is flavoured

    with juniper and drunk neat usually downed in a swiftgulp from a small glass.Jonge (young) jenever iscolourless and sharp.

    Oude JeneverSmoother, more complex,

    and slightly yellow in colour.Both types are referred to inbars as borrel (a tot).

    KopstootAptly named, a kopstoot

    (head knock) is a pils swiftlyfollowed by a jenever chaser.

    Naveltje BlootLiterally, Naked Tummy

    Button: a fruit liqueurtraditionally taken when amother-to-be shows off herbump to family and friends.

    Oranje BitterAn orange-flavoured

    liqueur knocked back onKoninginnedag (30 April).

    BakkieA cup of strong black

    coffee, the way the Dutchprefer it.

    Koffie VerkeerdIf you like your coffee

    milky, wrong coffee is what to ask for.

    AppelgebakPuddings are very popular,

    particularly the classic apple pie,accompanied by a large dollop ofwhipped cream (slagroom). Bycommon consent, the bestappelgebak in Amsterdam isserved at Winkel. d Winkel:Noordermarkt 43 Map D2

    PannenkoekenPancake houses offer an

    astonishing variety of fillings try the Pancake Bakery (seep97) for an excellent selection.The traditional Dutch favourite isa large pancake topped with athick syrup called stroop. If youhave room for more, there aredelicious, sugary poffertjes, themini pancakes sold in summerfrom brightly painted stalls andfrom permanent stands at DamSquare and Leidesplein.

    PatatServed from street stalls in a

    handy paper cone, chips (frenchfries) are ubiquitous, and verygood indeed. They are generallymade from whole (not pulped)Dutch potatoes, and fried ingood, clean fat. Served with alarge dollop of mayonnaise, theyare definitely not for the diet-conscious. For the very best, goto Vleminckx. d Vleminckx:Voetboogstraat 33 Map M5

    Pannenkoeken

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    VermeerThe hustle and bustle of

    Centraal Station seems far awaywhen sitting under the beamedceiling and brass chandeliers ofthis stylish and very friendlyrestaurant. Michelin-starred chefPascal Jalhaij creates deceptivelysimple but superb dishes. Try thefour-course Vermeer menu,which changes daily. d NH BarbizonPalace Hotel, Prins Hendrikkade 59 MapP1 020 556 4885

    Van VlaanderenThe dcor may be plain, but

    the dishes are rich and elaborateat this gourmands paradise,which for years was known onlyto insiders but recently acquiredan international reputation whenit picked up a long-deservedMichelin star. Expect to feast ongoose-liver, suckling pig, pigeonbreasts, sweetbreads and otherdelightfully wicked fare. dWeteringschans 175 Map E5 020 6228292

    LofTantalizing aromas from the

    open-plan kitchen, clanging pansand cheery banter fill the air atthis friendly, bistro-style localfavourite. Amsterdammers in theknow come for scrumptious,imaginative cooking, taking pot-luck from a set menu thatchanges daily. d Haarlemmerstraat 62 Map D2 020 620 2997

    De Rode LeeuwJoin quietly munching old-

    timers, Dutch families andcurious tourists in a cosilycluttered restaurant for atraditional Dutch meal. d Damrak93 Map N3 020 555 0666

    Caf RouxOne of Amsterdams

    smartest hotels is home to thisclassic, long-time favourite. Its arealm of crisp linen, soft lightand clinking glasses; theatmosphere is relaxed and thestaff charming. Star chef Albert

    Roux inspires disheswith a fine Frenchtouch, such as brillwith parsnip pure,salsify and thyme and you can choosefrom a top-class winelist. (Note: AlbertRoux is not theresident chef here,only a behind-the-scenes consultant.) dThe Grand Hotel, OudezijdsVoorburgwal 197 Map N4 020 555 3560 Lof

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    For a guide to restaurant prices See p81

    LIndochineOwner Kiet Anh Le flies in

    fresh ingredients for delicateVietnamese dishes and spicierThai cuisine. LIndochine is notjust an excellent Southeast Asianvenue, but a superb restaurant inany category. Cream-and-whitedecor and a placid, watchfulBuddha make for a calmingatmosphere. Not to be missed.d Beulingstraat 9 Map L5 020 6275755

    Tujuh MaretTreating yourself to an

    Indonesian rijsttafel (rice table)is an absolute must in Amsterdam and this one is outstanding.Enjoy a feast of 18 deliciouslyspicy dishes, from mild toexplosively chilli-filled, flavouredwith coconut and ginger,peanuts and lemongrass, allserved with mounds of rice. dUtrechtsestraat 73 Map E5 020 4279865

    MamoucheJoin a super-fashionable

    crowd in super-chic surroundingsto experience the very best ofMoroccan cuisine. Familiardishes like lamb tagine andcouscous share the menu withthe chefs more elaboratecreations, such as stewed rabbitand sesame with baked apricotsand cinnamon seeds. dQuellijnstraat 104 Map D6 020 6736361

    De BolhoedEclectic hardly seems an

    adequate word for an interiorthat combines Dutch grannysknick-knacks with Thai statuesand Australian aboriginal art, allagainst the background of a zanycolour scheme, but this is thebest vegetarian restaurant intown. Tuck in to big helpingswith organic ingredients and aMexican touch. d Prinsengracht 60 Map L1 020 626 1803

    Le PcheurCrystal chandeliers, an

    elegant courtyard garden andgenteel staff contribute to anatmosphere of timeless chic atthis top, centrally located fishrestaurant. Slip your lips aroundsucculent oysters, revel in aclassic bouillabaisse or go forsomething more adventurous,like roast monkfish with wildmushroom pasta, or flappinglyfresh fish with an explosion ofThai spices. d Reguliersdwarsstraat32 Map M6 020 624 3121

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  • Albert CuypmarktAmsterdam's largest general

    market runs all the way downthis long street in the Pijp area,touting everything from freshfish to footwear. Come here forfabrics, but don't come here forclothes (see p108).

    Albert HeijnAlbert Heijn is a rather

    upmarket supermarket chain theres at least one in each areaof town. A little pricey, but theselection is wide, the aisles arewide, and theyre wide awake:unusually, several centrallylocated branches stay open until10pm. d Various branches

    De BijenkorfNamed The Beehive

    (which just about sums it up ifyou're here at the weekend),Amsterdam's prestigiousdepartment store caters foreveryone from children toclubbers. Often described as theDutch Harrods, prices ensure

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    that it's only the well-honied thattend to part with their cash here.d Dam 1 Map N3

    BloemenmarktAmsterdam's famous

    floating flower market thestalls still float, but now they arepermanent (see p108).

    BlokkerThis cheap and cheerful

    chainstore purveying uninten-tionally kitsch interior supplies be that a coffee cup or a toiletbrush has become somethingof an institution in the Nether-lands. One regular customereven requested that her ashesshould be scattered in one. d Various branches

    BoerenmarktAmsterdams organic

    Saturday farmers market is a treat rather than a routineshopping trip. Cruise the stalls to the accompaniment of somefine busking and sample freegoats cheese and other goodies plus freshly-baked bread,flowers and a fabulous fungiselection. d Noordermarkt Map D2

    LooiersmarktBurrow away to your hearts

    content in this highly browsableand perpetually intriguing indoorwarren of antiques and collect-ibles. When youve dug outsome bargains, there's also acaf where you can put yourweary feet up (see p100).

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    For more shops See pp81, 87, 104, 105, 112, 113, 119

    Top 10 SouvenirsBeerTheres more to Dutch

    beer than Heineken. TheDutch make a fabulous varietyof beers, and you will findmany of them at DeBierkoning (see p87).

    BulbsCheck your country's

    import regulations beforepacking this fabulous floralsouvenir into your luggage.

    CannabisDont even think about it.

    CheeseIf you don't have time to

    make it to an out-of-towncheese market, visit DeKaaskamer (see p104) for amouth-watering selectionthat's guaranteed to impressmore than Edam or Gouda.

    ClogsThe quintessential Dutch

    footwear; be in fashion, andbe heard.

    CondomsNovelty condoms galore,

    and in a variety of flavours; thecity's infamous Condomeriewill oblige (see p81).

    DelftwareIf you don't manage to

    snag one of the dishy Dutch,at least you can take home aDutch dish.

    DiamondsDefinitely a girl's best

    friend, but possibly the worstnightmare of the poor guywho has to fork out for them.

    JeneverThe father of gin the

    real thing, in a variety offlavours and bottle types.

    T-shirts/PostcardsNo shortage of T-shirts and

    postcards portraying anythingfrom the utterly sublime tothe absolutely ridiculous.

    Magna Plaza Built between 1895 and

    1899, this magnificent building once derisively dubbed post-office Gothic by its critics wasdesigned by Cornelis HendrikPeters (18741932) to houseAmsterdam's head post office.Now a shopping mall, around 40diverse stores are located overits four floors. There are twocafs. d Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 182 Map M3

    NoordermarktThere has been a market on

    this site since 1627 a fact youcan contemplate as you fightover the bargains with the die-hard clubbers who arrive here after a night out, or with the locals who come for a more civilized Monday-morningrummage. Unbeatable forsecond-hand clothes and accessories (see p92).

    WaterloopleinWhether your taste is exotic

    crafts and jewellery or vintageclothes, you can find them fromMonday to Saturday at the citysbest flea market although its ajumble at the best of times.When you can take no more,escape to the adjacent indoormarkets. d Map Q5

    Magna Plaza

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    Walks and Cycle Rides

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    JordaanStart at Westerkerk (see

    p91), perhaps climbing its towerfor a birds-eye view of the area.Work your way north to pictur-esque Brouwersgracht (see p92).

    Shopping WalkBeginning at Noordermarkt

    (see pp63, 92), take Prinsengrachtto the Negen Straatjes (see p100)with its quirky shops. Have a lookat De Looier antiques market inElandsgracht (see p62) beforeheading down Lijnbaansgracht toLeidseplein. Turn up Leidsestraatand make for Metz & Co, with itstop-floor caf (see p99) thenon to Bloemenmarkt (see pp63,108), ending at De Bijenkorf onDamrak (see p62).

    Nightlife WalkStart at the entertainment

    hub, Leidseplein (see p101),before moving to the brightlights around Rembrandtplein(see p107). Wind down at thejunction of Reguliersgracht with

    Herengracht, where you can seeno less than 15 romantically litbridges. Continue to Amstelkerk,finishing in Utrechtsestraat, withits many appealing cafs andrestaurants (see p61, 110, 111).

    Around OudeschansFrom Centraal Station,

    discover a quiet part of the oldcity by taking Binnenkant, linedwith fine houses, and then,passing Montelbaanstoren,walking along Oudeschans toreach the Rembrandthuis (seep77). Pause at De Sluyswacht,the crooked caf on the bridge(see p80), before exploring theold Jewish quarter, Jodenbuurt(see p48), or continuing toNieuwmarkt (see p77).

    HerengrachtShortest and most fascin-

    ating of the Grachtengordel (seepp8-11), the Herengracht is linedwith beautiful buildings, such asBartolotti House (see p91), theBijbels Museum (see p99) andthe mansions of the GoldenBend (see p8).

    To Ouderkerk aan deAmstel

    For a tranquil cycle ride, followthe Amstel from the city centre(start near Blauwbrug) toOuderkerk aan de Amstel (seep128). The route passes Amstel-park and the De Rieker windmill(see p127) before enteringattractive countryside. About 20 km (12 miles) round trip.

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    For information on bicycle hire See p135

    Top 10 Tips forCycling in Amsterdam

    Stick to the Rules Dont copy the locals, who

    frequently jump red lights andride on sidewalks.

    Stay in the CycleLanes

    Amsterdam has an excellentintegrated network offietspaden (cycle lanes), withwhite lines, cycle signs anddedicated traffic lights.

    Cross Tramlines withCare

    If you have to, cross tramlinesat an angle, to avoid yourfront wheel getting stuck.

    Avoid TramsThey are bigger than you,

    and cant be steered; listenfor their rattle and stay clear.

    Watch for Pedestrians Its usually tourists who

    mistakenly walk in cyclelanes; keep an eye out forparked cars, too.

    Give Priority Motorists and cyclists

    have priority when enteringyour road from the right.

    Dismount at BusyJunctions

    Unless you are reallyconfident, its better tonegotiate these on foot.

    Dont Cycle Two-Abreast

    Its only allowed if you are not obstructing the traffic;otherwise, stay in single file.

    Use LightsBy law, you must turn

    your lights on after dusk you must also have reflectorbands on both wheels.

    Lock Your BikeBicycle theft is rife. Make

    sure that you always lock bothfront wheel and frame to animmovable object.

    PlantageWith its distinguished villas,

    tree-lined streets, parks andgardens, Plantage (see pp122-5)is a calm district to explore bybike (with the exception of busyPlantage Middenlaan).

    PrinsengrachtAt 3 km (2 miles), the

    outermost canal of the Grachten-gordel (see p8) is quite tiring onfoot, but makes a very pleasant,fairly car-free cycle ride, withplenty of cafs at which to restalong the way.

    Western Islands Perhaps the most peaceful

    part of Amsterdam in which towalk or cycle lies to the north-west of Centraal Station. Theislands of Prinseneiland,Bickerseiland and Realeneiland,together known as the WesternIslands, have a remote, bracingquality, with well-worn boatyardsand white drawbridges, as wellas modern housing (see p93).

    Amsterdamse Bos This attractive wooded park

    south of the city is ideal forcyclists, thanks to 48 km (30 miles) of cycle path; thoseon foot have no less than 160km (100 miles) of footpath tostroll along. Perfect for a familypicnic outing (see p128).

    Prinsengracht

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    De Star and Zons HofjesThese two charming

    courtyards, just a few pacesfrom each other, offer the wearyvisitor a calm retreat from thecrowds (see p92).

    Museum Van LoonBehind Adriaan Dortsmans

    grand faade, the Van Loonfamily residence has a calm,welcoming feel. Lose yourself inthe intimate, elegantly furnishedrooms, or in the charming rosegarden with its 18th-centurycoach house disguised as a Neo-Classical temple (see pp3031).

    ZandhoekOnly a few minutes away

    from the bustle of centralAmsterdam, Zandhoek (onRealeneiland in the WesternIslands) feels remote and slow-paced. Cobbles, white draw-bridges, 17th-century buildings

    and splendid old barges mooredalong the harbour front make apicturesque sight (see p93).

    BinnenkantBordering Waalseilands-

    gracht, an attractive side-canaldotted with houseboats,Binnenkant is lined with fine oldmerchants houses. A couple ofwell-placed benches at thejunction with Kalkmarkt allowyou to sit and contemplate acharming stretch of theOudeschans, site of the citysfirst shipyards, and the fortifiedMontelbaanstoren toweringabove it (see p79). d Map Q3

    Caf de SluyswachtA few steps down from busy

    Jodenbreestraat brings you tothe crooked Caf de Sluyswacht(see p80) with its spaciousterrace, where tables and chairsare set out at the merest hint offine weather. A surprisinglytranquil spot, from here youenjoy a different perspective ofthe Oudeschans.

    GrimburgwalThis peaceful corner of the

    Oude Zijde at the convergenceof three canals was a popularspot for medieval convents:appropriately, one of the sidestreets is called Gebed ZonderEnd (Prayer Without End). If youneed to rest, there are bencheson Oudezijds Voorburgwal, justbeyond the Huis op de DrieGrachten. d Map N5

    18th-century sledge, Museum Van Loon

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    Top 10 VantagePoints

    Westerkerk Tower Climb Amsterdams tallest

    tower to see the attractivejumble of the Jordaan below(see p91).

    Zuiderkerk TowerThe top of the Zuiderkerk

    gives a vista of the formerJewish quarter (see p42).

    Oude Kerk TowerSee the medieval city and

    the red-light district from thistower (see p29).

    Metz & CoThe citys most impressive

    canal views are from thesixth-floor caf and the cupolaperched on top (see p99).

    Madame TussaudsScenerama

    The round window on the topfloor offers a terrific view ofDam Square (see p35).

    AmstelveldFrom this peaceful square

    at the junction of Reguliers-gracht and Prinsengracht,there are pretty stretches ofthe canal in both directions.

    Magere Brug Stand on this bridge at

    night for splendid views ofthe Amstel (see p11).

    Reguliersgracht andHerengracht

    Put Thorbeckeplein behind youand count 15 bridges fromthis junction a spectacularsight after dark.

    Bloemgracht The best view of this

    lovely side-canal is from thejunction with 1e Bloemdwars-straat (see p9).

    NEMOClimb the broad outside

    stairs to the roof for a strikingview across the Oosterdok tothe city (see p129).

    Hortus BotanicusA wild and verdant place

    dotted with tropical palmhousesand welcome benches, the smallbotanical garden on the east sideof the city dates back to 1682,when an apothecarys herbgarden was established here(see p124).

    Theatermuseum GardenA caf at the back of this

    museum in an elegant 1638house by Philips Vingboons hastables and chairs that spill outinto a glorious, mature garden the perfect place to rechargeyour batteries (see p91).

    EgelantiersgrachtThe Westerkerk carillon

    might be the only sound to breakthe silence as you stroll alongthis pretty side-canal in theJordaan bordered by artisansdwellings. At Nos 10714, StAndrieshofje, built in 1616, isone of the citys oldest and bestpreserved almshouses. Acharming blue-and-white tiledpassage leads from the streetinto the courtyard (see p92). d Map J2

    Overloop-plantsoen This sleepy little park nestles

    at the junction of two canals,Nieuwe Keizersgracht andPlantage Muidergracht. d Map R6

  • East Indiaman AmsterdamThis splendid replica of a

    Dutch East India Company shipthat sank on its maiden voyagein 1749 makes a fine sight inOosterdok. Visit the captain inhis luxurious cabin and the cookin his galley, and watch thesailors hoisting cargo andswabbing decks (see p123).

    Canal BikesExplore the canals at your

    own pace. Adults may well findthese pedal boats energy-sapping, but children will lovethem. They seat either two or fourpeople, and can be boarded atfour different central locations(see p135).

    Tram RidesGo to Haarlemmermeer

    railway station and then take a20-minute ride in an old-fashioned tram with woodenseats, clanging bell and friendly

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    conductor to Amsterdamse Bos,where you will find pancakes,peacocks, and plenty of leg-stretching space. d ElectrischeMuseumtramlijn: Haarlemmermeer-station, Amstelveenseweg 264 020673 7538 www.trammuseum.demon.nl Trams depart AprOct:11am5:05 pm Sun; Jul: 1:453:15pmWed Admission charge

    Puppet ShowsThere has been a puppet

    theatre on Dam Square for over ahundred years. Puppet TheatreMisha Kluft performs everyWednesday, Saturday and Sundayafternoons from May to October.d Puppet Theatre Misha Kluft: 023 5323951 Free

    NEMOIts worth going to

    Amsterdams science andtechnology centre just for thebuilding alone dubbed Titanicby locals and for the superbviews you can get from the roof.Inside, enquiring minds will bekept alert with scores of fun,thought-provokingdemonstrations of the worldaround us (see p129).

    Artis ZooChildren really love this

    action-packed zoo, where theycan pat the animals in thechildrens farm, brave the steamyreptile house, see the stars inthe planetarium, and marvel atthe fish in the vast aquarium (see p123).

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    Top 10 Sights andSounds for Free

    Civic Guards GalleryHuge portraits of the Civic

    Guard at the AmsterdamsHistorisch Museum (see p26).

    BegijnhofA haven of peace and

    tranquillity right in the centreof the city (see p223). Formore delightful hofjes in theJordaan, see p92.

    Hollandsche ManegeStylish 19th-century royal

    riding school (see p117).

    Rijksmuseum GardenArchitectural curiosities in

    a formal garden (see p14).

    Lunchtime ConcertsAt the Concertgebouw

    every Wednesday at 12:30pm(see p119) and at theBoekmanzaal in the Stadhuis(see p78) every Tuesday at12:30pm, October to June.

    Ferry across the IJJoin the locals on the

    five-minute ferry ride fromCentraal Station (see p84) toNorth Amsterdam or to theJava Eiland.

    BloemenmarktLocals and tourists alike

    love the Singels colourfulfloating market (see p108).

    Seven EuropeanHouses

    See Europe in a minute atRoemer Visscherstraat 2030a a row of houses in the styleof seven countries (see p148).

    Barrel OrgansA joyful feature of

    Amsterdams streets thereare eight of them in all.

    Church BellsThe carillons of the

    Westertoren, Zuidertoren andMunttoren unleash theirglorious peals from noon1pmon Tuesdays, Thursdays andFridays respectively.

    VondelparkThis is the perfect place to

    go with kids on a summer day it has a paddling pool, play-grounds, puppet shows and face-painting (at the Melkhuis caf),as well as free performances inthe open-air theatre (see p115).

    Church TowersThe tallest, at 85 m (276 ft),

    is the tower of Westerkerk (seep91), where the reward is notjust a great view, but the citysheaviest bell and the gailypainted imperial crown ofMaximilian of Austria, his gift tothe city. The towers of OudeKerk (see p29) and Zuiderkerk(see p42) can also be climbed.

    TropenmusuemStroll through a highly

    realistic North African street,Indian village or Arab market allat the Tropenmuseum. There isalso a hands-on Kindermuseum(Childrens Museum), which isopen to 6- to 12-year-olds byappointment (guided tours inDutch only) (see p127).

    Madame TussaudsScenerama

    If you want to take a trip backinto the days of the Golden Age,experience a moon landing, ormeet Michael Jackson and a hostof other stars, then this waxworksis the place. Theres a great viewof Dam Square from the roundwindow, too (see p35).

    Kindermuseum

  • 70

    Left Queens Day bric-a-brac sale Right Queens Day revellers

    Festivals and Events

    Bloemen Corso

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    NationaalMuseumweekend

    Most of Amsterdams state-runmuseums participate in thisscheme, run by SMK (StichtingMuseumkaart), to offer free orreduced-price entry for oneweekend. Details are publishedthrough the Tourist Board in mid-March. d mid-Apr

    KoninginnedagOn the Queens birthday, the

    whole city becomes a giganticstreet party. The locals sell bric-a-brac from stalls outside theirhouses, theres a fair in DamSquare, and people dressed inmonarchist orange throng thestreets. Music blares, fireworksfill the night sky, and the partygoes on till dawn. d 30 April

    Bevrijdingsdag The day after Herden-

    kingsdag (Remembrance Day),Liberation Day celebrates theend of the Nazi occupation withimpromptu speeches, concertsand open-air markets in theVondelpark, Leidseplein,Museumplein and Rokin. d 5 May

    Holland FestivalAn exciting programme of

    theatre, music, opera, ballet andart staged at various venues inand beyond the city, the HollandFestival has earned itself aprestigious reputation, attractingtop-flight performers from theNetherlands and abroad. d 020 5307110 www.hollandfestival.nl Jun

    Open MonumentendagenAn exciting opportunity to

    see what lies behind the gabledfaades and medieval doorwaysof some of the citys mosthistoric buildings, which areopen to the public for free overthis weekend. d 020 422 2118 www.openmonumentendag.nl Second weekend in Sep

    Bloemen CorsoIn a spectacular procession,

    floats proceed from Aarlsmeer,home of the flower industry (seep72), to Dam Square, weigheddown by countless varieties offlowers but not tulips, whichare out of season. Watch fromVijzelstraat rather than join thecrush in the Dam. The illumin-ated floats make a magical returnjourney. d First Sat in Sep

    GrachtenfestivalNational and international

    stars perform classical musicconcerts at 20 historic locationsaround the three canals of the

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    Top 10 SpectatorSports

    Football See Ajax at their remark-

    able 50,000-seater stadium. d Amsterdam ArenA, Bijlmer AugDec, FebMay

    CyclingThe RAI Derny Race is

    Amsterdams only criterium(road circuit). d AmsterdamRAI, Europaplein mid-May

    BasketballThe top local team is

    Ricoh Astronauts . d Sport-hallen Zuid Sepmid-May

    KorfbalA cross between netball

    and basketball. Blauw Wit isthe club to watch. d SportparkJoos Banckersweg SepJun

    HockeyAmsterdamsche Hockey &

    Bandy Club are the ones towatch. d Wagener Stadium,Amstelveen SepMay

    Ice HockeyThe city supports the

    popular Boretti Tigers. d Sporthal Jaap Edenhal,Radioweg 64 Octlate Mar

    American Football If you cant get tickets to

    watch Ajax, the AmsterdamAdmirals also play at theArenA (see above). d MarJun

    RunningThe Amsterdam Marathon

    began in 1976 and is now anannual event. d OlympischStadion Stadionplein Oct

    RowingPopular among the

    numerous competitions is theHead of the Amstel Riverrace. d Last week Mar

    Show-jumpingJumping Amsterdam is a

    series of international indoorcompetitions. d AmsterdamRAI, Europaplein JanFeb

    Grachtengordel (see p11). Thehighlight is a free piano recitalgiven on a barge on Prinsengrachtopposite the Pulitzer Hotel. d 020421 4542 www.grachtenfestival.nl 2nd or 3rd WedSun in Aug

    Jordaan FestivalThis picturesque district (see

    p92) makes an ideal setting for alow-key early-autumn festival.The local talent comes out of thewoodwork for contests onWestermarkt, and there areconcerts, street parties and fairs like the one devoted to food inNoordermarkt. d 020 626 5587 www.jordaanfestival.nl mid-Sep

    Sinterklaas ParadeThe Christmas festivities

    start here. St Nicholas theDutch Santa Claus arrives nearSt Nicholaas Kerk by boat withhis mischievous elves, ZwartePieten (Black Peters). Together,they distribute sweets and giftsto the children of Amsterdam. dSecond or third Sat in Nov

    New Years Eve New Years Eve starts slowly

    and explodes into life at midnightwith firework displays (theres anorganized one over the Amstel)and wild street-partying centredon Nieuwmarkt and Dam Square.As with all events of this sort,things can sometimes get out ofhand. d 31 Dec

    Prinsengrachtconcert, Grachtenfestival

  • 72

    Left Haarlem Right Hortus Botanicus, Leiden

    Excursions

    Lime kilns, Zuiderzeemuseum, Enkhuizen

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    Visit the Aalsmeer flower auction website at www.vba.nlVisit the Zuiderzeemuseum website at www.zuiderzeemuseum.nl

    AalsmeerBloemenveilingen

    Witnessed from an elevatedviewing gallery, the worldslargest flower auction is anastonishing sight. With flowers,speed is of the essence, and theatmosphere is frenetic. Biddingis highly automated, using thebackwards Dutch clocksystem: the clock starts at 100,then counts down until the firstbidder to press his button stopsthe auction and wins.

    DelftSleepy Delft was shaken by

    a gunpowder explosion in 1654,after which the town was rebuilt as recorded in A View of Delftby Vermeer around 1660. Sincethen, little has changed. There areDelft tiles in the Museum Lambertvan Meerten, and in the shops.In Het Prinsenhof you can seethe bullet holes left by themurder of William of Orange; hismausoleum is in the Nieuwe Kerk.

    The HaguePolitical capital of the

    Netherlands, Den Haag (TheHague) is a stately city, withmany public buildings and lovelyparks. Centred round the GothicRidderzaal, places of interestinclude the parliament buildings,the International Court of Justiceand the Mauritshuis, eleganthome of the superlative RoyalPicture Gallery. The seasideresort of Scheveningen is a shortdistance away.

    EnkhuizenThe fortunes of this

    attractive former fishing portdeclined dramatically after theconstruction of the hugeAfsluitdijk in 1932 created thefreshwater IJsselmeer and cut it off from the North Sea. Todayit is home to the wonderfulZuiderzeemuseum, whichincludes a reconstruction of atypical fishing village withcostumed inhabitants andcraftsmen at work.

    HaarlemCentred around the Grote

    Markt, with its buzzing pavementcafs and lovely buildings, thehistoric centre of this lively, well-heeled city is a delight. High-lights include the Frans HalsMuseum, the Grote Kerk with itsmagnificent decorated Mllerorgan, and the Art Deco trainstation. Also well worth a visit isthe Teylers Museum, with itsexcellent collection of science,technology and art exhibits.

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    Visit the Frans Hals Museum website at www.franshalsmuseum.nlVisit the Paleis Het Loo website at www.paleishetloo.nl

    k

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    025 25miles kms

    KeukenhofThroughout spring, but

    climaxing in mid-April when thetulips flower, a drab coastal stripbetween Leiden and Haarlembursts into colour. Among thesecommercial bulbfields is thewooded Keukenhof park, theshowcase for Dutch bulbs, adazzling and unforgettable sightbetween late March and late May.

    LeidenAn easy-going university

    town, full of cycling students,Leiden offers plenty of canals,cafs and museums, as well asthe lovely Hortus Botanicus.

    MarkenJust 16 km (10 miles) from

    Amsterdam, this former islandfishing community, now reachedby a narrow causeway, makes arefreshing day trip. Its distinctivewooden houses are charming,and the inhabitants weartraditional costume in summer.

    Paleis Het LooBuilt in 1686 by Stadholder

    William III as a hunting lodge, HetLoo, near Apeldoorn, was a royalsummer residence until the

    1960s. Behind a sober faade liesa sumptuous interior, with roomsdecorated to reflect the differenteras of occupation, from the1680s to the 1930s. There are alsosuperb formal gardens to enjoy.

    UtrechtLike Leiden, Utrecht is a

    university city with much to offer notwithstanding the vast,unappealing Hoog Catherijneshopping complex. A majormedieval religious centre, it stillhas many traces of its past, anda lovely historic town centre.

    Wooden house, Marken

  • AROUNDTOWNOude Zijde

    7681

    Nieuwe Zijde8287

    Western Canal Ring9097

    Central Canal Ring98105

    Eastern Canal Ring106113

    Museum Quarter114119

    Plantage122125

    Further Afield126129

    AMSTERDAM

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  • 76

    Oude Kerk

    THE STREETS OF THE OUDE ZIJDE (OLD SIDE) are packed with historicand beautiful buildings, though many are buried in the seediest parts. Asthe name suggests, this is where Amsterdam has its roots; the city grew froma ribbon of land on the eastern bank of the Amstel between Damrak andOudezijds Voorburgwal (which means before the city wall). Today, theOude Zijde incorporates the medieval city, built around the Oude Kerk, andthe area to the east, where development started in the 15th century andcontinued over the following two centuries to accommodate Jewish migrs.An area of richness and contrasts, within its boundaries lie the Nieuwmarkt(dominated by the Waag, a 15th-century city gateturned weigh-house), the university quarter,Chinatown, the Red Light district, and whatremains of the old Jodenbuurt (see p48), wherefour former synagogues have been combined toform the superb Joods Historisch Museum.

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    Oude KerkThe oldest church in

    Amsterdam has been altered andextended over the years,producing a heavenly jumble ofarchitectural styles from medievalto Renaissance (see pp289).

    NieuwmarktThis vast open square has

    been a marketplace since the15th century, and is still thescene of a Sunday antiquesmarket in summer. Alone in themiddle stands the bulky Waag(1488), bristling with turrets. Theeastern gate in the citysdefences, it was originally calledSt Antoniespoort. In the 17thcentury it became a weigh-houseand home to numerous guilds,including the surgeons. It washere that Rembrandt painted hisfamous Anatomy Lesson of DrTulp, now in the Mauritshuis, TheHague. There were few problemsacquiring bodies for dissection,since public executions took placein the Nieuwmarkt. d Map P3

    Museum HetRembrandthuis

    Major refurbishment has recreat-ed the interior as it might havebeen in Rembrandts time. Ofspecial interest are pictures byhis master, Pieter Lastman. Oneroom contains exotic collectiblesof the day busts of Roman

    emperors, spears and shells aswell as Rembrandts precious artbooks and an inventory of hiseffects (see p15). d Jodenbreestraat4 Map Q5 020 520 0400 www.rembrandthuis.nl Open 10am5pmMonSat, 15pm Sun & public hols Admission charge

    ZeedijkBuilt in the early 1300s, the

    Zeedijk (sea dyke) was part ofAmsterdams original fortifications.As the city grew the canals werefilled in and the dykes becameobsolete. At No. 1 is one of thecitys two remaining wooden-fronted houses, dating from the16th century. It is not open tothe public. Opposite is St Olofs-kapel, built in 1445 and namedafter the first Christian king ofNorway and Denmark. d Map Q2

    Red Light DistrictThe worlds oldest profession

    aptly occupies Amsterdamsoldest quarter, de Walletjes (thelittle walls), bordered by Zeedijk,Kloveniersburgwal, Damstraat andWarmoesstraat. Today, the districtis one of the citys greatest touristattractions, with scantily cladprostitutes, pouting or indifferent,sitting in windows or lolling indoorways along OudezijdsVoorburgwal and the lanes off it.At night these lanes become thehaunts of junkies and pickpockets,and are best avoided. d Map P2, P3

    Red Light District

    The Waag, Nieuwmarkt

  • Modern-day ToleranceIn line with Amsterdams long

    tradition of tolerance, theauthorities generally overlook thepossession and consumption ofsmall quantities of cannabis ormarijuana, although they areillegal. Their sale and use at

    regulated coffee shops (see p51)is officially accepted, but hard

    drugs and advertising are not. In1990, brothels and the display of

    girls in their windows werelegalized, although street

    prostitution remains illegal.

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    clever wordplay, the Stadhuis-Muziektheater is better knownas Stopera because itcombines the stadhuis (townhall) with the headquarters ofthe city opera and balletcompanies. A brutal design inred brick, marble and glass, itwas built in 1987 amid intensecontroversy, since scores ofmedieval houses, amongJodenbuurts few remnants, hadto be destroyed in the process.In the passage between Stoperastwo buildings, a bronze buttonindicates the exact NAP (NormaalAmsterdams Peil) water level. dWaterlooplein 22 Map Q5 Stadhuis:020 552 9111. Open 8.30am3:30pmMonFri, 57pm Thu (Arcade open 24hrsdaily) Muziektheater: 020 625 5455

    Joods Historisch MuseumAbel Cahens prize-winning

    design for the Jewish HistoricalMuseum (1987) is a perfectmarriage of old and new: thefour synagogues that house it,built by Ashkenazi Jews duringthe 17th and 18th centuries, arelinked by glass-covered internalwalkways. Highlights of theexhibition, which is concernedwith all aspects of Jewish life,

    are the Holy Ark (1791), focus ofthe Nieuwe Synagoge, theilluminated Haggadah manuscript(1734), and Elias Boumans airy17th-century Grote Synagoge(see pp489). d Jonas DanielMeijerplein 24 Map Q5 020 626 9945 www.jhm.nl Open 11am5pm daily Closed Yom Kippur Admission charge

    Portugees-IsralitischeSynagoge

    The Sephardic Jews, who settledin Amsterdam from the late 16thcentury, celebrated their newlives in a tolerant society acentury later by commissioningElias Bouman to build thisimposing synagogue. It follows atraditional design with theHechal (Holy Ark), facingJerusalem, opposite the tebah,from where the cantor leads theservice (see p48). d Mr Visserplein 3 Map R5 020 624 5351 www.esnoga.com Open AprOct:10am4pm SunFri; NovMar: 10am4pmSunThu, 103pm Fri Closed Sat &Jewish hols Admission charge

    Hash Marihuana HempMuseum

    Seen through a cloud of incense,exhibits in this tiny butfascinating museum chart thehistory of hemp (marijuana) fromits earliest use some 8,000 yearsago to the 20th-century drug

  • 79

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    As the Oude Kerk doesnot open until 11am, startyour day with a tour of theMuseum Amstelkring (seepp201). Although in theNieuwe Zijde, it is only afew steps from the OudeKerk (see pp289), whichyou can visit afterwards.Then walk to Nieuwmarkt(see p77) for a break at Inde Waag (Nieuwmarkt 4),where you can sit outsidein summer and watch thebustle of the square.

    Afterwards, make your wayto Oudezijds Achterburgwalfor the Hash MarijuanaHemp Museum. Thenfollow the main drag of theRed Light district (seep77), OudezijdsVoorburgwal, as far as CafRoux (see p60) for lunch.

    Walk down to peacefulGrimburgwal and theHouse on the Three Canals.Agnietenkapel (nowclosed) is a few doorsaway. From here, headeast to Oudezijds Achter-burgwal and cut throughOudemanhuispoort (stonespectacles mark theentrance), browsingthrough the second-handbookstalls as you go.Continue to Jodenbree-straat and the MuseumHet Rembrandthuis (seep77). After your tour if itis a Monday, Wednesdayor Friday pop intoPintohuis (see p44) for aglimpse of the paintedceiling. Revive yourself inCaf de Sluyswacht (seep80). From here there is alovely canalside walk, pastthe Montelbaanstoren.Turn left and stroll alongBinnenkant before headingback to your hotel.

    A Day in the OudeZijde

    Morning

    Afternoon

    wars. As hennep, it was used inHolland for making lace, linens,fishing nets and fabric for sails,and processed by specialwindmills called hennepkloppers.There are displays aboutsmuggling, an array of hookahsand reefers, and a grow roomwhere plants are cultivated. dOudezijds Achterburgwal 148 Map P3 020 623 5961 www.hashmuseum.com Open 11am11pm daily Admission charge

    MontelbaanstorenA fortified tower, the

    Montelbaanstoren was built in1512 on the eastern edge ofAmsterdam, just outside the city wall. Its original purpose was todefend the Dutch fleet; now,more prosaically, it houses theAmsterdam water authority. Theopen-work steeple was added bythe ubiquitous Hendrick deKeyser in 1606, when the cityfathers felt that they could at lastafford the icing on the cake. Itoverlooks the lovely OudeSchans (see p64), a canal thatalso dates from the early 16thcentury, dug to improve accessfor ships. d Oude Schans 2 Map R3

    Montelbaanstoren

  • 80

    Restaurants, Cafs and BarsTis FrisThe best breakfasts in the

    area are served in this bright andairy caf. Perfect before tacklingthe nearby Waterlooplein market,or for a caffeine break mid-browse. d St Antoniesbreestraat 142 Map P4

    VOC CafHoused in the citys

    oldest defence tower, theSchreierstoren (see p10), thisspacious traditional-style bar hasa reading room out back andtwo terraces overlooking thewater. d Prins Hendrikkade 94 Map Q1

    Wijnand FockinkBarely looking a day older

    than its 1679 origins, this is thebest proeflokaal (tasting house)in town. The hidden garden outback is only for use by guests ofthe Krasnapolski Hotel (see p52).

    LimeOne of the hippest and

    friendliest bars in the area, yetdecidedly unpretentious. d Zeedijk

    104 Map P3

    Blauw aan deWal

    An absolute treasurein the heart of theRed Light District,this Mediterraneanrestaurant should besavoured for hours.d Oudezijds Achter-burgwal 99 Map P4 020 330 2257

    BirdThose in the know flock here

    for the tastiest Thai in town. Eatin their spacious restaurant orduck out to their snackbaropposite for a more informal,utterly authentic experience. dZeedijk 72 Map P2 020 620 1442

    GettoKitsch and quirky, this

    friendly gay bar-restaurant is oneof the best in town. Unbeatablecocktails, delicious home-cookedfood, tarot readings (Sundays),occasional live DJ (see p53).

    In t AepjenThis unusual bar is located in

    one of the oldest wooden housesin the city (1551). Sailors wouldpay for their stay in monkeys hence the primate theme inevidence throughout (see p44).

    De Bekeerde SusterIn 1544, the nuns at this

    cloister started making beer, atradition that was revitalized afew years ago and theres afine restaurant. dKloveniersburgwal 6-8 Map P4 020 626 6280

    De SluyswachtRembrandt

    sketched this leaningformer lock-keepershouse. Theres apeaceful canalsideterrace at the back.d Jodenbreestraat 1 Map Q4

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  • 81

    LateiA delightful caf cum bric-a-

    brac store specializing in olive oiland Finnish wallpaper. Ideal for alight sandwich, fresh juice anddecent-sized coffees. Everythingis for sale. d Zeedijk 143 Map P3

    RMF StreetwearInternational

    Amsterdams first hip hop shophas a fantastic range of USstreetwear, including Ecko,Maurice Malone and Southpole.d Oudezijds Voorburgwal 189 Map P3

    Capsicum NatuurstoffenThis store sells a huge

    range of gorgeous printed andembroidered silks, linens andcottons, imported from all overthe world. You are sure to findsomething to brighten yourhome. d Oude Hoogstraat 1 Map P4

    TibetQuite a find in the seedy

    surrounds of the Red LightDistrict, this restaurant servesfood until 1am. A mind-blowing

    menu that wontbreak the bank. dLange Niezel 24 Map P2 020 624 1137

    De ZuiderkerkBuilt 160311 by

    Hendrick de Keyser,painted by Monet in1874. Climb to thetop for stunningviews of Amsterdam(see p42).

    CondomerieA huge, hilarious range

    of (mostly) novelty condomsguaranteed to spice up the most jaded of love lives. dWarmoesstraat 141 Map N3

    Fo Kuang Shan TempleThis nun-run Chinese

    Buddhist temple takes pride ofplace on this otherwise junkie-riddled street. Take a respectfulpeek one afternoon (you cankeep your shoes on), or dine attheir adjacent vegetarian rest-aurant. d Zeedijk 118 Map P3

    HimalayaA veggie caf at the back

    of this new age bookstoreoverlooking the water is afantastic find in this hecticallytouristy area. Chill out, Zen-style.d Warmoesstraat 56 Map P2

    Jacob Hooy & CoEstablished in 1743, this

    chemists store is simply thebest place in town to pick upherbs, homeopathic remedies,tea and essential oils.d Kloveniersburgwal 12 Map P3

    JoesVliegerwinkel

    Colourful kites,quirky knick-knacksand kitsch bits forthat perfect presentto suit all ages. dNieuwe Hoogstraat 19 Map P4

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    DESPITE ITS NAME, THE NIEUWE ZIJDE (NEW SIDE), together with theOude Zijde, was at the centre of Amsterdams early maritime settlement.From the boundary between the two districts, the Nieuwe Zijde extends westto the Singel. Its canal pattern once mirrored that of its neighbour, but overtime it developed an entirely different character. The medieval city, with itswooden housing, was highly susceptible to fire, and much of the area was burnt down in 1452, necessitating extensivereconstruction. During the 19th century, most of its canalswere filled in; the resulting thoroughfares, Damrak, Rokinand Nieuwendijk, are lively shopping streets, as isKalverstraat, scene of a medieval market. Despite thechanges, pockets of history survive in the networkof narrow 14th-century streets off Kalverstraat, theBegijnhof, the 17th-century orphanage that housesthe Amsterdams Historisch Museum, and, at the heartof the district, Dam Square.

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    Dam SquareAmsterdams main square is

    named after the dam on the RiverAmstel, around which the citygrew. By the 17th century, it hadbecome the focus of the Dutchtrading empire (see pp34-5).

    Koninklijk PaleisSupported by a staggering

    13,659 wooden piles, Jacob vanCampens Classical buildingoccupies one side of DamSquare. Designed as theStadhuis (town hall), it wastransformed into a Royal Palacein 1808 by King Louis Bonaparte.Although it is still used forofficial functions, such as thewedding reception of CrownPrince Willem-Alexander inFebruary 2002 (see p39), thepresent royal family liveelsewhere. The interior isbreathtaking (see p34).

    Nieuwe KerkWealthy merchant banker

    Willem Eggert donated hisorchard as a site for this Gothicchurch, as well as a large sum ofmoney for its construction. Itwas consecrated to Our Ladyand St Catherine, but has onlyever been called the NieuweKerk to distinguish it from theOude Kerk. When the town hall

    became the royal palace in theearly 19th century (see above), itwas given the new, elevated titleof national church of theNetherlands, and has been thesetting for the coronation ofevery Dutch monarch since then.

    Amsterdams HistorischMuseum

    An excellent place to start a visitto Amsterdam, this museumchronicles how a tiny fishingvillage on the Amstel river grewinto one of the wealthiest andmost beautiful cities in the world(see pp247).

    BegijnhofA charming and secluded

    courtyard of houses surroundinga tranquil garden in the centre ofthe city, the Begijnhof wasestablished in the 14th centuryas a sanctuary for a lay Catholicsisterhood (see pp223).

    Museum AmstelkringThis canal house turned

    museum, with its soberdecoration and delightful secretCatholic church, plunges thevisitor back into the Golden Age(see pp201).

    Gilded cherub, Nieuwe Kerk

    Amsterdams Historisch Museum collection

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    Amsterdams Colonial PastAcknowledged during the 17th

    century as the most powerful cityin the Netherlands, Amsterdam

    turned its sights overseas.Expeditions established a spice

    trade out of Indonesia, and in 1602the Dutch East India Company(VOC) was founded, followed in1621 by the Dutch West India

    Company. Dutch colonies in Braziland on Manhattan Island eventually

    succumbed, respectively, toPortuguese and English sea-power.

    Centraal StationFor many visitors, their

    experience of Amsterdam beginsat Centraal Station, the transporthub of the city, where some1,400 trains arrive and leaveevery day. It was built in the1880s in Neo-Renaissance styleby P J H Cuypers, who was alsoresponsible for the startlinglysimilar Rijksmuseum (seepp1215), and A L van Gendt,designer of the Concertgebouw(see p115). Before work on thebuilding could start, threeartificial islands had to beconstructed and 8,600 woodenpiles sunk to support them. Thefact that the building blockedAmsterdammers view of thesea caused much controversy atthe time. The ornate red-brickfaade depicts themes of travel,trade and city history, picked outin gold and other colours. If youhave time to while away, the

    station restaurant Eerste Klas(see p51) serves full and lightmeals in a splendid Art Nouveausetting. d Stationsplein Map P1 0900 9292

    Beurs van BerlageThe innovative Stock

    Exchange building was deridedwhen it was unveiled in 1903,but is now considered a keywork of the period and almostuniversally admired. Designed bythe pioneer of Dutch modernarchitecture, H P Berlage, itsfunctional lines are softened byornamental ironwork and tiledmosaics. The Stock Exchangehas now moved next door, andBeurs van Berlage is home tothe Nederlands PhilharmonicOrchestra. It is used for concertsand exhibitions, and contains apermanent display on the historyof the Stock Exchange. Try to geta look at the amazingly light andspacious interior. d Damrak 277 Map N2 020 530 4141, 020 521 7575(Nederlands Philharmonic box office) www.beursvanberlage.nl Open onlyduring exhibitions Admission charge

    Allard Pierson MuseumLocated in a stately Neo-

    Classical house built in the1860s as a bank, this delightfulsmall museum was named afterthe University of Amsterdamsfirst Professor of ClassicalArchaeology, and contains itsarchaeological collection.Fascinating exhibits conjure upvivid pictures of life in ancientcivilizations; they includeEgyptian mummies andsarcophagi, Coptic clothes,Cypriot jewellery, Greekgeometric and red-figuredpottery, Etruscan metalwork andRoman glassware and statuary.One of the museums attractionsis its size: even with an extra

    Centraal Station

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    Spend the morning in theAmsterdams HistorischMuseum (see pp247),although a morning isscarcely enough. When youfeel like a break, leave themain building and head forthe Kalverstraat entrance,where the caf-restaurantDavid and Goliath is onyour left. Make sure thatyou keep your ticket sothat you can re-enter themuseum without having topay again. The end of thetour brings you to theexcellent museum shop.

    Rather than leaving by oneof the exits, cut throughthe Civic Guards Galleryto the Begijnhof (seepp223), and while awaysome time in this seclud-ed place. Come out of theGedempte Begijnenslootentrance and turn thecorner into Spui, whereyou might lunch at CafHoppe (see p50) or CafEsprit (Spui 10).

    After lunch, walk downKalverstraat, the districtsmain shopping street, toDam Square, where youcould visit the KoninklijkPaleis as well as theNieuwe Kerk (see pp345).Then take a break amongthe tiny shops built intothe buttresses of thechurch in Gravenstraat; at No.18, De Drie Fleschjesis one of the oldestproeflokalen (tastinghouses), dating from 1650.

    When you are revived,walk down Damrak pastthe Beurs van Berlage tofinish your day at theCentraal Station, whereyou can hop on a tramback to your hotel.

    A Day in the NieuweZijde

    Morning

    Afternoon

    wing opened in 1994, it ispossible to see everything in onevisit. d Oude Turfmarkt 127 Map N5 020 525 2556 www.uba.uva.nl/apm Open 10am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sat, Sun& public hols Admission charge

    SpuiOne of the most genial

    places in the city, this smallsquare lined with cafs, bars andbookshops is generally quietduring the winter, but insummer, it bursts into life atlunchtime and again in theevening, when people spill outonto the pavement from bars.Cheek by jowl with universitybuildings, Spui has traditionallybeen a place where intellectualsgather to drink and debate. Thereis also a Friday book market.During the Provo riots of the1960s (see p39), the square wasthe scene of political protestsand demonstrations, duringwhich Carol Kneulmans tweestatue of an urchin, Het Lieverdje(Little Darling) was frequentlydaubed with slogans. At No. 18,Caf Hoppe (see p50) is alandmark brown caf, inbusiness for more than 300years. d Map M5

  • 86

    Restaurants, Cafs and BarsBar BepThis small lounge bar, with

    its guest DJs, is just the place toget into the mood for a longnight out on the town. dNieuwezijds Voorburgwal 260 Map M3

    Stereo SushiService can be a little slow

    at this hip, imaginative sushi bar,so sip on sake while waiting forsushi, sashimi or even smokedeel. DJs spin late into the night.d Jonge Roelensteeg 4 Map M3 020777 3010

    SupperclubTheres a decadent lounge

    bar in the basement of thispainfully hip restaurant. Dress toimpress if you want to get in. dJonge Roelensteeg 21 Map M3

    De Vijff VlieghenElvis, Versace and John

    Wayne ate at this sprawling 300-seater restaurant. Each room hasa theme, including the RembrandtRoom. Today it touts New Dutchcuisine, using mostly organic

    ingredients. dSpuistraat 294 Map M4 020 530 4060

    Villa ZeezichtWith wooded

    warmth and charm,this relaxed cornercaf has picturewindows overlookingthe wide cobbledbridge of the Singel.d Torensteeg 7 Map M2

    Green PlanetBright, modern and full of

    greenery, this veggie caf-restaurant is 90 per cent organic.Perfect for a drink, a quick snackor a hearty meal. d Spuistraat 122 Map N2 020 625 8280

    Henri ProuvinIn a pretty alley behind the

    Nieuwe Kerk, this dark, elegantbar serves a range of fine winesand champagnes, accompaniedby soak-up snacks. d Gravenstraat20 Map N2

    HoppeOpen since 1670, this

    historic brown caf, with its leftypast and church pews, was aregular haunt of radical journal-ists, writers and intellectuals inthe Provo-fuelled 1960s (see p50).

    De JarenFormerly a bank, cash is the

    only currency at this moderngrand-caf. Simple sandwichesand soups downstairs, deliciousmeals upstairs. The watersideterrace is the placeto be in summer(see p50).

    Het SchuimArt meets

    alcohol at this large,rustic-style bar, apopular hangout forstudents and creat-ive types. Foodserved till 10pm. dSpuistraat 189 Map M3

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    P G C HajeniusDutchman Hajenius fulfilled

    his 1826 pipe dream, and hisstore is now one of Europesmost famous cigar houses. Amust for all cigar connoisseurs,but worth a peek just for the artdeco interior. d Rokin 926 Map N3

    Pied--TerreSpend an afternoon

    browsing the huge stock oftravel guides and maps, whileplanning your next holiday or a short trip out of town. d Singel 393 Map M5

    PucciniEnjoy indescribably delicious

    home-made soups and imagin-ative sandwiches at this charmingcaf erroneously calling itself anespressobar. Pricey but worth it,especially if you snag the cornercouch. d Staalstraat 21 Map P5

    De StillAround 600 whiskies (most

    of them rare malts) are served atthis specialist bar, which also

    runs an annualwhisky festival. dSpuistraat 326 Map M4

    VrankrijkPop into the

    recently legalized barof the city's mostfamous squat for ataste of Amsterdam'slegendary squattingmovement. dSpuistraat 216 Map M4

    AbsintheDJs spin and you might too,

    after sampling the La Fe Verte(The Green Fairy), the contro-versial wormwood-infusedhallucinogenic this late-openinglounge bar takes its name from.d Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 171 Map M3

    Als PlaiceAuthentic British fishnchips,

    complete with tabloids andlashings of tomato ketchup andbrown sauce. d Nieuwendijk 10 Map N1 020 427 4192

    The American Book CenterSeven floors of books,

    magazines, newspapers andcomputer games. There are alsoart exhibitions, lectures andwriters workshops at theTreehouse annexe, a short walkaway. d Kalverstraat 185 Map M5

    De BierkoningThe Beer King in the

    shadow of the Dams RoyalPalace has a fantastic range ofbeers almost 1,000 of them from all over theworld. d Paleisstraat125 Map M3

    Housewives onFire

    An all-in-one storefor a complete make-over. Funky hairstyles and a goodselection ofclubbers clothes. dSpuistraat 102 Map N2

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  • FOR MANY, THE WESTERN CANAL RING is the area of Amsterdam thatperfectly encapsulates the citys relaxed yet stylish air. Construction of theGrachtengordel, Amsterdams 17th-century ring of three fashionable canals(see p11), began here, with the marshy area just beyond reserved by cityplanner Hendrick Staets for workers and their unpalatable industries;Huguenot refugees who settled here like others fleeing religious persecution were said to have named it jardin (garden), later corrupted to Jordaan, andtoday it is one of Amsterdams most fascinating and bohemian districts. Itsnarrow streets and oblique canals might seem random, but they followed thecourse of old paths and drainage ditches. North of the charmingBrouwersgracht lies the recently revitalized districtof Haarlemmerbuurt, and, further afield, theWestern Islands, Bickerseiland, Prinseneiland andRealeneiland, created in the mid-17th century toprovide much-needed warehousing.

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    thought-provoking museumencompasses the achterhuis,secret hideout of Anne Frank andher family, as well as backgroundinformation on the plight ofAmsterdams Jews and racialoppression (see pp32-3).

    Westerkerk An exacting climb to the top

    of the soaring tower of Wester-kerk, a landmark close to theheart of every Amsterdammer,rewards you with a thrilling view(see p67). Designed by Hendrickde Keyser and completed in 1631,its austere interior is unadorned,except for the ornate organ andits lively painted shutters. Amemorial to Rembrandt remindsus that he was buried here,although the precise burial site isunknown. Outside the church,notice the poignant, diminutivestatue of Anne Frank andHomomonument, thepink granite trianglewhich commemoratespersecuted homo-sexuals. d Prinsengracht281. Map L2. 020 624 7766.www.westerkerk.nl Church:open AprSep: 11am3pmMonFri (AugSep also Sat).Free Tower: open AprSep:guided tours every hour from10am4pm MonSat (checkfirst). Admission charge

    TheatermuseumTwo fine buildings

    house the Theater-museum. Its entranceis at No. 168, the austere Neo-Classical White House designedin 1638 by Philips Vingboons andtopped by Amsterdams earliestneck gable. The museum extendsinto Nos 17072, known asBartolotti House, designed by

    Hendrick de Keyser in 1617 witha contrastingly flamboyantRenaissance faade, its curvedappearance cleverly reflectingthe canal bend on which itstands. The frothy 18th-centurystuccoed and painted interior ofthe White House is worth thevisit alone. d Herengracht 168 MapL2 020 551 3300 www.tin.nl Open

    11am5pm MonFri, 15pmSat & Sun Admission charge

    Huis met deHoofden

    An eye-catchingextravaganza, theHouse with the Headsis named for the sixheads on its elaboratestep-gabled faaderepresenting Classicalgods Apollo, Ceres,Mars, Minerva, Dianaand Bacchus. Built in1622 for a successfulmerchant, its DutchRenaissance design is

    attributed to Hendrick de Keyser.Today it is occupied by the bodyin charge of Amsterdams publicmonuments. The ground floor hasscarcely changed. d Keizersgracht123 Map L2 Closed to the publicexcept on Monumentendagen (see p70)

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    almshouses for the needy built bywealthy merchants in the 17thand 18th centuries are part ofthe citys charm. Unobtrusivestreet entrances lead to pretty

    houses (sometimes still used fortheir original purpose) around aflower-filled garden or courtyard.Visitors are usually admitted, but

    they are asked to respectresidents privacy.

    JordaanQuirky and characterful, with

    an intimate, easy-going atmos-phere all its own, the Jordaan isa dense patch of small-scalestreets and canals pepperedwith interesting shops andgalleries, charming hofjes andinviting brown cafs. Boundedby Prinsengracht and Lijnbaans-gracht to east and west, andBrouwersgracht and Looiers-gracht to north and south, it wasbuilt for workers at the sametime as the Grachtengordel (seep11). d Map K3

    Zon's and De Star HofjesThese two delightful hofjes

    are close to one another onPrinsengracht. At Zons Hofje, astone plaque depicting NoahsArk is a clue that it was built onthe site of a clandestine churchknown by that name. The DeStar officially Van Brienen Hofje is named after a brewerythat stood on this site. MerchantJan Van Brienen is said to havebuilt it in gratitude for his releasefrom a vault in which he hadaccidently been locked. d ZonsHofje: Prinsengracht 159171. Map D2.Open 10am5pm MonFri De StarHofje: Prinsengracht 89133. Open6am6pm Mon-Fri, 6am2pm Sat

    NoordermarktBy the entrance to the

    Noorderkerk (see p42), a still-flourishing Protestant church, asculpture commemorates theJordaanoproer (Jordaan riot) of1934, in which seven people diedduring demonstrations againstcuts in unemployment benefits.Today the tranquil surroundingsquare, a market site since 1627,comes to life during the Mondayflea market and the Saturday birdmarket and boerenmarkt, sellingorganic produce. d Map D2 Fleamarket: 9am1pm Mon Boerenmarkt:9am4pm Sat

    BrouwersgrachtIf you stand at the breezy

    junction of Brouwersgracht andPrinsengracht you will get terrificviews in all directions, and asense of the sea not far away.Today, Brouwersgracht, with itspretty bridges and picturesquehouseboats, is a romanticdelight, but a 17th-centurybrewery (brouwer) worker wouldbe astonished to find that thespout-gabled warehouses of thisonce reeking industrial canal hadnow been converted into thesmartest of private housing particularly fine examples ofwhich you can see at Nos188194. d Map D1

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    Beat the queues and befirst to arrive at the AnneFrankhuis (see pp323),which opens at 9am.Afterwards, you could takea contemplative walkalong Prinsengracht to theWestern Islands, perhapsfirst climbing the tower ofWesterkerk (see p91). Onthe way, drop in on twopeaceful hofjes, Zons andDe Star (see facing page).For refreshment, visitPapeneiland, a tiny browncaf founded in 1642, at thejunction of Prinsengrachtand Brouwersgracht.

    On the Western Islands,stroll round Prinseneilandand along Zandhoek onRealeneiland, where youcould lunch very well atDe Gouden Reael(Zandhoek 14). If you arewith children, visit Dieren-capel, the childrens farmon Bickerseiland.

    En route to the Jordaan,hardened shoppers willfirst want to stop inHaarlemmerbuurt, with itsmix of shops, both smartand tatty. Dont miss apeak at over-the-top CafDulac (Haarlemmerstraat118), and the worldsnarrowest restaurant, DeGroene Lanteerne(Haarlemmerstraat 43).

    Spend a couple of hoursexploring the endlesslypicturesque Jordaan, thenjoin todays breed of youngJordaanese in one of thetrendy cafs aroundNoordermarkt Finch orProust, or the wildly kitschCaf Nol in Westerstraat. Ifits dinner time, head forDe Reiger (see p51), thelocals favourite eetcaf.

    Exploring theWestern Canal Ring

    Morning

    Afternoon

    HaarlemmerbuurtIn recent times, the bustling

    streets of this stalwart resident-ial neighbourhood have seen thearrival of all manner of shops,mixing bric-a-brac with hautecouture, New Age with funkyfurniture and specialist food withlocal groceries. On Haarlemmer-straat is Westindisch Huis, oncethe headquarters of the DutchWest India Company (see p45).To the west is Haarlemmerpoort,a gateway now converted intoflats built in 1840 for the entryof William II. Beyond it liespeaceful Westerpark, andWestergasfabriek, formergasworks turned arts centre. d Map D1

    Western IslandsDespite being very much

    part of the city, the man-madeWestern Islands have a remote,bracing quality. ComprisingBickerseiland, Prinseneiland andRealeneiland, they were createdin the early 17th century toaccommmodate shipyards andwarehouses. In recent years,large-scale development hastaken place, and modern housingnow co-exists in harmony withwhite wooden drawbridges.Dont miss Zandhoek onRealeneiland, with its row ofcharming 17th-century houses,or atmospheric Prinseneilandwith its boatyard and oldshuttered warehouses. d Map D1

    Boatyard, Prinseneiland

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    Bars and CafsMediterraneeThis small, rather plain

    French-Moroccan bakery andcoffeeshop, serves irresistablecroissants and cakes. dHaarlemmerdijk 184 Map D1

    t SmalleOriginally a liquor distillery,

    this split-level brown bar is nowa discerning wine-caf. A must-see. d Egelantiersgracht 12 Map L1

    Sound GardenDont let the tattoos,

    piercings and grunge factor putyou off. This huge bar has a greatatmosphere and some unusualbeers on tap, too. d Marnixstraat164166 Map J3

    TabacTabac used to be a brown

    caf but has recently succumbedto the lounge trend. Localsnotice, visitors may not. dBrouwersgracht 101 Map D2

    De MunckA lively light brown

    eetcaf, servinginternational foodwith a Dutch twist.The menu changesregularly dependingon what is availablein the market. Trytheir cheese fonduemade with full-bodied Amsterdamcheese. d Lindengracht95 Map D2 020 6222716

    t ArendsnestOver 130 types of Dutch

    beer (many from small, localbreweries) are served at thisspecialist bar with several ontap. On the last Sunday of eachmonth, sample 10 different kindsin their informal tasting sessions.d Herengracht 90 Map M1

    DuendeRelease the inner gypsy in

    this small, busy tapas bar in theJordaan. Authentic atmosphere,value for money, and regular livemusic. Ol! d Lindengracht 62 MapC2 020 420 6692

    FinchThis small but popular

    watering-hole on the edge of ascenic square can get decidedlycrowded. In summer, the hiplocal clientele spills out onto thesquare. d Noordermarkt 5 Map D2

    P96This peaceful bar opens

    around 8pm in the evenings andstays open later than most. Thepremises extend inthe summer to anoutdoors terrace ona fairy-lit barge. dPrinsengracht 96 Map L1

    De ReigerA stylish and

    popular brown bar-restaurant for thosewith discerning taste-buds. Not your usualpub grub (see p51).

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    StoutThis hip, white, minimalist

    establishment serves aMediterranean-inspired menualongside sandwiches andsalads. d Haarlemmerstraat 73 MapD2 020 616 3664

    SjaalmanA trendy Thai that looks

    across the canal to the Wester-kerk. A tad expensive, but thefood is authentic. d Prinsengracht178 Map K2 020 620 2440

    Spanjer & Van TwistThe perfect place to rest

    those weary feet. Hole yourself upfor the afternoon in the second-floor window seat. d Leliegracht 60 Map L2 020 639 0109

    ToscaniniDespite its quiet location

    and deceptive size (its hugeinside), this superb Italianrestaurant gets quickly bookedup. The cooks create deliciousdishes from an open kitchen. dLindengracht 75 Map C2 020 623

    2813

    De VliegendeSchotel

    Slow service, butinfinitely worth it forthe huge portions ofdelicious vegetarianfood. House wine isthe only alcoholserved. d NieuweLeliestraat 162 Map K2 020 625 2041

    BalrajThe sister of Beatrix, Queen

    of the Netherlands, is a regulardiner at this well-priced restaurantoffering some of the best Indianfood in town. d Haarlemmerdijk 28 Map D1 020 625 1428

    De BelhamelThe charm and ambience of

    this canalside restaurant morethan make up for the somewhatvariable quality of the food. dBrouwersgracht 60 Map D2 020 6221095

    De BolhoedUndoubtedly one of the most

    charming restaurants in the area.Delicious, well-priced vegetarian(and vegan) food with a wickeddessert selection (see p61).

    ChristopheAlgerian-born Jean-Christophe

    Royer started out washing dishes.Todays hes one of the finestchefs in the Netherlands: hisMediterranean establishment hasa coveted Michelin star. Trs cher.d Leliegracht 46 Map L2 020 625 0807

    FoodismA great little

    place tucked away inthis narrow street.Delicious, healthyfood, including awide range of vege-tarian options. dOude Leliestraat 8 MapM2 020 427 5103

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    ShoppingExotaOne of a handful of typically

    Jordaan boutiques in this area with a trendier edge than most.d Nieuwe Leliestraat 32 Map K2

    Kitsch KitchenAmple to spice up your

    kitchen and accessorize thecooks. Pop across the nearbyRozengracht to number 183,where Kitsch Kitchen Kids hasa range for the little people. dRozengracht 812 Map K3

    Mechanisch SpeelgoedA fascinating, nostalgia-

    inducing collection of mechanicaltoys and good old-fashionedchildrens playthings. Simply put:life before Gameboy. dWesterstraat 67 Map D2

    Pasta PaniniA fabulous Italian deli. Great

    for freshly-filled ciabattas atlunchtime or hand-made pastafor supper. Plus a tantalizingrange of cookies, soup, saucesand wine. d Rozengracht 82 Map K3

    Simon LeveltThere are a

    staggering 160 typesof tea and around 25types of coffee tochoose from in thispleasant, aromaticstore. The companyhas been importingthe stuff since 1817.d Prinsengracht 180 Map K2

    Back BeatJools Holland and even Mick

    Jagger have popped into thisnew and second-hand record/CDshop specializing in jazz, soul,funk and R&B. Rare collectorsitems to be had. d Egelantiersstraat19 Map L1

    De BellyUnable to wait for Saturdays

    organic market? Then head tothis friendly organic store.Pulses, grains, candles, soaps,fresh fruit and vegetables, plus agood selection of wine and beer.d Nieuwe Leliestraat 174 Map K2

    Big ShoeFashionable footwear for folk

    with big feet. d Leliegracht 12 MapL2

    Coppenhagen 1001 KralenBeads and then even more

    beads from gaudy plastic onesto real pearls, amber andsemiprecious stones and alsolots of jewellery accessories. dRozengracht 54 Map K3

    Donald EJongejans

    Vintage framesspecialist selling afascinating selectionof eyewear datingfrom the 1800sonwards. If its shut,just check out thewindow display. dNoorderkerkstraat 18 Map D2

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    Jordaan FestivalThe Jordaaners are fiercely

    proud of the accordion-ladenoompah songs unique to thisarea. Over one weekend mid-September, outdoor stages areset up on this filled-in canal, andthe beer and bellowing flowfreely. d Westermarkt Map L2

    De KoophandelUnusual for Amsterdam, a

    late-night bar, on one of theprettier, quieter canals in theJordaan. d Bloemgracht 49 Map K2

    Pancake BakeryAlthough unashamedly

    touristy, you could do a lot worsethan this restaurant in a former17th-century warehouse namedHope to sample the local fare.d Prinsengracht 191 Map L1

    ParadoxA paradox in itself, this

    coffeeshop shows few traces ofserving the herb. Fresh fruit andveg shakes, healthy food and abright interior make it a perfect

    place for breakfast orlunch. d Eerste Bloem-dwarsstraat 2 Map K2

    Small WorldSimply the best

    quick-stop in townfor sandwiches,carrot cake and otherdelicious offerings.Eat in at the counteror take away. d BinnenOranjestraat 14 Map D1

    Avondverkoop DolfIn a town which doesnt

    quite have the 24/7 Americanmentality, this late-night storecan be a Godsend even if it isa little pricey. General groceriesand a good range of alchohol. dWillemstraat 79 Map D1

    GambitA whisky-laced hot chocolate

    in one hand, and a bishop in theother ... when the heavens open,hole up in this delightful chesscaf for a few hours andcheckmate your opponent. dBloemgracht 20 Map K2

    t GeveltjeBeginners and pros jam

    together in the Jordaans famousjazz bar for musicians and jazzaficionados alike. Pros play everyFriday. Closed Saturdays andSundays. d Bloemgracht 170 Map J2

    GO CantinaEvery so often a dining table

    is set up within this art galleryspace and GO goes gourmet. dGO Gallery, Prinsengracht64 Map L1

    GreenwoodsAustralian-run,

    typically Englishtearoom-style cafthat serves greatbreakfasts and highteas. Service can bepainfully slow, butworth the wait. dSingel 103 Map M1

    Best of the Rest

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  • 98

    AMSTERDAMS THREE GREAT CANALS, Herengracht, Keizersgracht andPrinsengracht, are at their most impressive in this central section of theGrachtengordel (see p11), which culminates in the stretch known as theGolden Bend, where the wealthiest Amsterdammers built stately houses inthe 1660s. Designed and decorated by the best architects of the day, such asPhilips Vingboons, the mansions built here were often twice the width ofstandard canal houses. Nowadays, many of these buildings are occupied byinstitutions. In contrast, the intimate cross-streets that run between the threecanals, known as De Negen Straatjes (The Nine Streets) enticingly display thecitys talent for creative retail. Another magnet for shoppers is Metz & Co,which provides a bird's-eye view of the whole area from its top-floor caf.Cutting through this elegant district is the mainthoroughfare, Leidsestraat, which culminates inthe brash and lively entertainment hub, Leidse-plein. Architectural highlights include the Paleisvan Justitie and the American Hotel.

    Central Canal Ring

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    0300 300yards metres

    1 Golden Bend

    2 Bijbels Museum

    3 Singel

    4 Metz & Co

    5 Leidsegracht

    6 Negen Straatjes

    7 Felix Meritis Building

    8 Looier Kunst enAntiekcentrum

    9 Leidseplein

    0 American Hotel

    Sights

    Cupola, Metz & Co

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    Golden BendSo named because of the

    concentration of wealth amongstits first residents, this stretch ofthe Herengracht betweenVijzelstraat and Leidsestraat feelsgrand but bland, unless you pickout eye-catching details as youstroll. Look out for Louis XIV-style No. 475, said to beAmsterdams most beautifulhouse; and No. 476, elegantlyrestyled in the 1730s and toppedwith an eagle. No. 497 is open tothe public, but you have to likecats: its the Kattenkabinet, aunique museum devoted to catsin art. Be careful not to trip overone of the many feline attend-ants. d Kattenkabinet: Herengracht497 Map M6 020 626 5378 www.kattenkabinet nl Open10am2pm Mon-Fri, 15pm Sat & Sun Admission charge

    Bijbels MuseumFar lovelier than the Golden

    Bend is the stretch of Heren-gracht between Huidenstraat andLeidsestraat, particularly Nos36470, four houses built byPhilips Vingboons in 1662. Two ofthem house the Bible Museum,where apart from biblical arti-facts you can admire the early-18th-century interior. d Heren-gracht 366368 Map L5 020 6242436 www.bijbelsmuseum.nl Open 10am5pm MonSat,11am5pm Sun Admission charge

    SingelOften overlooked by tourists,

    Singel is an excellent canal for astroll, measuring just over 1.6 km(1 mile). Once a fortified moat, itmarks the boundary between thedensely packed medieval cityand its more spacious 17th-century extension. Its centralsection is graced by the elegantNeo-Gothic Krijtberg church withits ornate interior (see p43). Takea look, too, at Singel 288, withgorgeous Rococo faade, and atTorensluis, a bridge wide enoughfor caf tables and a domineer-ing statue of the writer Multatuli(see p47). d Map N1

    Metz & CoThe great attraction of this

    ponderous late-19th-centurybuilding (apart, of course, fromthe five floors of luxury goods onsale) is its sixth-floor cupola andcaf, with superb views of thecanal ring below. Originally builtfor an insurance company in1891, it was taken over by Metz& Co in 1908. Gerrit Rietveldadded his splendid glass cupolain 1933. In 1973, Liberty ofLondon bought the business,renovated the building andcommissioned Cees Dam todesign the sixth-floor caf. dLeidsestraat 3436 Map L6 020 5207020 Open 11am6pm Mon,9:30am6pm TueSat, noon5pm Sun

    Model of Temple Mount, Jerusalem,Bijbels Museum

    Torensluis bridge, Singel

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    Felix Meritis Building

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    HouseboatsAround 2,500 houseboats are

    called home in Amsterdam, butit was only after World War II,

    when there was a severe housingshortage, that they becomepopular. Though linked to the

    electricity and water supplies, theyuse the canals (which are flushedout nightly) for sewage disposal.

    Visit the Woonbootmuseum(Houseboat Museum) opposite

    Prinsengracht 296 to find out more.

    LeidsegrachtFor dream canal houses in

    pristine condition, look nofurther than sophisticatedLeidsegracht, one of the citysmost sought-after addresses. AtHerengracht 394, on the cornerwith Leidsegracht, notice thefine wall plaque depictingcharacters from a medievallegend the four Heemskinderenon their horse Beyaart. Anotherplaque, at No. 39, showsCornelis Lely, who drew up theoriginal plans for draining theZuiderzee. d Map K6

    Negen StraatjesNestling in the centre of the

    canal ring are these three parallelrows of cross-streets bordered bySingel and Prinsengracht to eastand west, and Raadhuisstraat andLeidsegracht to north and south.Known collectively as the NineStreets, these charming, largelycar-free roads were once a centrefor the leather trade. Today theyare packed with amusing, imagin-ative and sometimes eccentricshops like De Witte Tandenwinkel,devoted to toothbrushes (seep104). In Gasthuismolensteeg,dont miss the Brilmuseum at No.7, an enchanting museum andshop devoted to spectacles oldand new (open noon5pmWedSat). d Map L4

    Felix Meritis BuildingThe splendid Neo-Classical

    faade of this building comes asa surprise on gabled Keizers-gracht. Designed in 1787 byJacob Otten Husly as a scienceand arts centre (the name FelixMeritis means "happinessthrough merit"), it flourished untilthe late 19th century. Later, itbecame headquarters of theDutch Communist Party (CPN),and in the 1970s was home tothe avant-garde Shaffy TheatreCompany. Today, it houses theEuropean Centre for Arts andSciences its arts complex andSummer University courses meanit is always humming. d Keizers-gracht 324 Map L4 020 623 1311

    Looier Kunst enAntiekcentrum

    If the smart shops of theSpiegelkwartier (see p112) aretoo expensive and rarified, trysearching for more affordableantiques everything fromvintage toys to glass, lace andDelftware in this warren ofstalls occupying a vast networkof ground-floor rooms in a blockof houses near the Looiersgracht(tanners canal). Taken together,this is the largest collection ofart and antiques in the Nether-lands. The stall-holders have alively community spirit, hostingbridge sessions which are opento all. d Elandsgracht 109 Map J5 Open 11am5pm SatThu

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    For more on canal tours See pp10 and 136

    This compact area isfocused on Amsterdamsmost famous canals, sowhy not start the day witha canal tour. AmsterdamCanal Cruises start andend on Singelgracht,opposite the HeinekenBrewery. From here, its ashort walk to Leidsepleinand welcome refreshmentat the Caf Americain.

    Leaving the hubbub ofLeidseplein, walk alongPrinsengracht (passing thePaleis van Justitie, oncethe city orphanage) toelegant Leidsegracht. Iftheres time, investigatethe antiques market,Looier, in Elandsgracht. Forlunch, try brown cafs VanPuffelen or Het Molenpad,or designer hang-out HetLand van Walem (see p102).

    Plunge into the NegenStraatjes for some seriousshopping in its frivolousshops. You may not beable to resist the cakesand chocolate on offer atsalon de th Pompadour(see p104). Pop into theWoonbootmuseum,moored on Prinsengrachtopposite Elandsgracht, tomarvel at how a bargemanand his family could havelived in such a tiny space.Then cross to Herengracht,which you will have seenearlier from the water, andstroll along, admiring itsarchitectural gems aroundthe Bijbels Museum andGolden Bend (see p99). Ifits before 6pm (9pm onThu, 5pm on Sun), end theafternoon with a birds eyeview of your daysexploration from the sixth-floor caf at Metz & Co(see p99).

    Exploring the CentralCanal Ring

    Morning

    Afternoon

    LeidsepleinThe citys tourist hub.

    Sophisticated it is not, tacky andfun (and, at night, often raucous)it is, especially in summer, whenbuskers and street performers,from family pop groups to lonefire-eaters, keep the millingthrongs amused. Despite itsrambling, dog-leg shape,Leidseplein is a natural gatheringplace, packed with fast foodstalls, cafs and smoking coffeeshops. Nightspots De Melkweg,Paradiso, and Holland Casino areclose at hand, while for a morereflective diversion you can playchess on a giant outdoorchessboard in adjacent MaxEuweplein, or stroll in the tinyLeidsebos park. d Map C5

    American HotelLeidsepleins most famous

    landmark is this one-off Dutchinterpretation of Art Nouveau byWillem Kromhout (1902), whichforetold the Amsterdam Schoolof architecture. Only the exterioris of interest: the interior is asbland as any other chain hotel (inthis case, Crowne Plaza). Theexception is the hotels famousCaf Americain, with its stained-glass windows and glass parasollampshades. The literati whoonce inhabited it may havedisappeared, but its a welcomehaven from the rigours ofLeidseplein. d Map C5

    Looking towards the American Hotel

  • 102

    BarsLuxSplit-level, late-opening

    designer bar. DJs spin everynight. d Marnixstraat 403 Map K6

    Het MolenpadA charming brown bar

    between the city's main libraryand the Leidsestraat equallysuitable for bookworms and theshopped-out. d Prinsengracht 653 Map K5 020 625 9680

    MorlangModern, minimalist space

    next door to Land van Walem.Impressive menu. d Keizersgracht451 Map L6 020 625 2681

    Saarein IIOnce an infamous women-

    only bar, now men are welcome.Quiet during the week, rowdy atweekends. Pool table, good barfood. d Elandsstraat 119 Map K4

    Van PuffelenThe rich and beautiful flock

    to this elegant haunt the biggestbrown bar in town. d Prinsengracht

    377 Map K3 020 6246270

    De ZotteThis Belgian bar

    (appropriatelynamed DrunkenFool) has a hugerange of beers.Delicious food helpssoak it all up. dRaamstraat 29 Map K6 020 626 8694

    De AdmiraalOne of the smarter

    proeflokaalen (tasting houses) inthe city and unlike the rest, itcloses late. Collapse on thecouches and knock back thepotent liquors and jenever. dHerengracht 319 Map L4

    The Bar With No NameKnown to the locals as

    Wolvenstraat, this 1970s-stylelounge bar-restaurant is the hauntof young advertising darlings andother affluent beings. Open frombreakfast to bedtime, it servesimaginative sandwiches, soup andpan-Asian cuisine. d Wolvenstraat23 Map L4 020 320 0843

    De PelsA low-key, easygoing

    neighbourhood bar locals readthe papers at the big table by thewindow. A great place to recoverfrom a hangover on a Sunday(breakfast is served until1:30pm). d Huidenstraat 25 Map L5

    Het Land vanWalem

    One of the citysoriginal designerbars, this was thecreation ofrenowned Dutcharchitect, GerritRietveld. Inside, itsbright andminimalist; outside,there are charmingterraces. d Keizers-gracht 449 Map L6

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    Metz & CoThe views at this prestigious

    department store's restaurantare spectacular; the food less so(see p99). d

    NomadsThis late-night restaurant is

    the ultimate in decadent dining.Kick off your shoes and lounge onmattresses while food is servedto you from bronze platters. DJsenhance the Arabian experienceat weekends. d Rozengracht 133 Map J3 020 344 6401

    RakangTotally authentic Thai; one of

    the best of its kind in the city.Those in the know load up at theircheaper, equally delicious take-away next door. d Elandsgracht2931 Map K4 020 620 9551

    Dining ElevenChef Martin Keus produces

    fantastic Mediterranean-inspiredfish dishes (meat-lovers are alsowell catered for). Excellent value.d Reestraat 11 Map L3 020 620 7968

    WagamamaFast food, slow

    service but youcould do worse for aquick lunch. Dontmiss the king-sizechess action takingplace on the giantboard outside. d MaxEuweplein 10 Map C5 020 528 7778

    BlakesSave this restaurant located

    in Anoushka Hempel's upmarkethotel for a special occasion. Thefood is a fusion of French andeastern highly creative, but at acost (see p144). d

    BojoInexpensive, informal and

    Indonesian head here aftermost of the citys restaurantshave gone to bed. d LangeLeidsedwarsstraat 4951 Map D5 020 622 7434

    GoodiesA culinary delight in the

    heart of the Nine Streets.Healthy soups, salads andsandwiches by day; the perfectpasta by night. d Huidenstraat 9 Map L5 020 625 6122

    Los PilonesThis Mexican cantina is small,

    but size isnt everything. Savourthe authentic home cooking,between slams of tequila. d Kerk-straat 63 Map L6 020 320 4651

    NoaCanalside chic is

    reinvented at thisNew York-stylelounge bar, withchampagne, cocktailsand couches to kickback in. The food iship, but sometimesit misses. d Leidse-gracht 84 Map K6 020626 0802

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  • 104

    Shopping (Nine Streets)PontifexThis tiny waxworks gives

    Madame Tussauds a run for theirmoney, with a colourful range ofcandles of every type imaginable.Adjoining are the premises ofthe rather spooky doll doctor,Kramer. d Reestraat 20 Map K3

    RazzmatazzA must for a designer

    collection ranging from VivienneWestwood to Dexter Wong plusaccessories, and information onclubs and parties. d Wolvenstraat 19 Map L4

    Whats CookingAt this kitsch and colourful

    culinary store youll findeverything from jam spoons andtablecloth saris to olive oil andiced tea plus gadgets andgismos to suit every cook'spocket. d Reestraat 16 Map L3

    De Witte TandenwinkelA veritable ode to the tooth,

    this shop specializes in everyshape or size of toothbrush

    imaginable, and issure to take your(bad) breath away.Mouthy Mick Jaggerhas even dropped by.d Runstraat 5 Map L5

    ZipperImmaculately

    displayed vintagesecond-hand clothesand accessories. dHuidenstraat 7 Map L5

    Bakkerij Paul AnneWhere can you find the best

    bread in Amsterdam? At thisorganic bakers outlet, selling adelicious range of wholemealbread and croissants, pizza, tofubroodjes and sugar-free oatcakes.d Runstraat 25 Map K5

    Fifties-SixtiesAccessorize your house with

    this kitsch selection of designertoasters, lava lamps and lightingfrom you guessed it the 1950sand 60s. d Huidenstraat 13 Map L5

    De KaaskamerFor cheese with a capital C,

    try The Cheese Chamber, wherethere are over 200 different kindsof one of Hollands best exports.If it isnt here, it probably doesn'texist. d Runstraat 7 Map K5

    Zinne & MinneTreat yourself or your partner

    to some sensuous pamperingwith massage oils, aphrodisiacsand playful bedtime games. dWolvenstraat 14 Map L4

    PompadourYou can pile on

    the calories juststaring at the window-display of this chiquechocolaterie. Sadly,all you'll burn here isa hole in your wallet.Try the famous home-made chocolates orexquisite tarts. dHuidenstraat 12 Map L5

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    Bagel & BeansAmerican-style freshly-baked

    cookies and cheesecake, freshly-squeezed juices and (rare inAmsterdam) decent-sized cups ofcoffee. d Keizersgracht 504 Map L5

    Ben & JerrysForget the nearby Hagen-

    Dazs parlour ice cream nevertasted this good. d Leidsestraat 90 Map K6

    Frozen FountainArguably, Amsterdams

    most important designer storeand exhibition space for furnitureand household products. Arevered international reputationfor its cutting-edge designs andfresh talent makes it a must-see.d Prinsengracht 629 Map K5

    Urban Home & GardenTours

    Garden designer Andr Anciongives English-language walkingtours delving behind the faadesof some of the citys mostimpressive canal houses. It endswith a very civilizedlunch or afternoontea. d 020 688 1243

    MelkwegThis former milk

    factory now churnsout live music. Plustheres a cinema,theatre, gallery, caf-bar, upstairs bar andpint-sized video room(see p54).

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    ParadisoOne of Amsterdams best-

    loved live music spots. VelvetUnderground, Buzzcocks andMacy Gray have all played here.The intimate upstairs hall oftenhas unknowns before they gobig. d Weteringschans 6-8 Map C5

    Hotel PulitzerOpera brunches take place on

    the last Sunday of the month inthe Garden Room of thisprestigious hotel. In August, thehampers and champagne comeout in full force, when a floatingstage is set up out front for theunmissable Grachtenfestival'sopen-air classical concert. dPrinsengracht 315331 Map K3

    Cortina PapierA wonderful selection of

    beautiful, handbound books andalbums, printed and marbledwrapping papers, and inks in allcolours. d Reestraat 22 Map K3

    Sound of the FiftiesA unique record shop

    stocking rare andcollectable vinyl fromthe 1950s. d Prinsen-gracht 669 Map K6

    La TertuliaA mother and

    daughter team runthis bright, split-levelcanalside coffeeshop.Perfect for first-timers. d Prinsengracht312 Map K5

  • 106

    BEGUN IN THE EARLY 17TH CENTURY, the Grachtengordel (see p11) wasextended further east to reach the Amstel in the 1660s, making newplots of land available for wealthy merchants to build their luxurious if sobertown houses. Among the highlights of the area are two such patricianmansions, the Museum Van Loon and the Museum Willet-Holthuysen.Medieval Amsterdam is recalled at the Munttoren, whose base was once partof the Regulierspoort, a gate in the city wall; by contrast, you can see themodern city in full swing in lively Rembrandtplein, formerly a butter market.There are diverse opportunities for shoppingamong the antiques of the Spiegelkwartier, at thecolourful Bloemenmarkt, and at vibrant AlbertCuypmarkt; or you could catch a movie at AbrahamTuschinskis extraordinary 1921 cinema, nowlovingly restored and offering six screens. And torefresh the parts that other beers may or may notbe able to reach, you can visit the original HeinekenBrewery for a guided tour and a free beer.

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    Museum Van LoonA chance to see inside a

    private canal house, whosegrand yet approachable 18th-century interior recreates abygone age (see pp3031).

    Museum Willet-Holthuysen

    Though it lacks the lived-in feelof the Museum Van Loon, this17th-century canal house has itsown special atmosphere. An airof stiff formality tinged withmelancholy pervades its statelyrooms: the Ballroom; the BlueRoom, reserved for the men ofthe house, with painted ceilingby Jacob de Wit; the glitteringDining Room; and the delicateGarden Room, with views overthe formal garden. The collect-ions of its last owners, SandrinaHolthuysen and her husband,Abraham Willet, are displayedthroughout paintings, glass,ceramics, silver. The top floorsare used for temporaryexhibitions. It was the widowedSandrina who left the house andits contents to the city. She dieda lonely death in 1885, trying tokeep up appearances. d Heren-gracht 605 Map P6 020 523 1822 www.museumwilletholthuysen.nl Open 10am5pm MonFri, 11am5pmSat & Sun Admission charge

    Amstel RiverNo visit to Amsterdam is

    complete without a walk alongthe banks of the Amstel, theriver whose mouth spawned afishing settlement in the 12thcentury (see p38). In 1222 theriver was dammed, andAmsterdam turned from fishingto trade the beginning of itsexpansion. Commercial bargesstill ply the river, passingBlauwbrug (Blue Bridge), inspiredby the belle poque PontAlexandre III in Paris, the much-loved Magere Brug (see p11),and the Amstelsluizen (sluicegates), which help to pumpmillions of gallons of fresh waterinto the canals to keep themfrom stagnating. d Map P5

    RembrandtpleinThis former butter market

    has what you might call a splitpersonality. In its centre is a19th-century statue ofRembrandt set in a tranquilgarden, but around its sides areneon-lit, low-brow and at night high-octane bars and cafs,packed with Amsterdammersand visitors alike. This is a greatplace for an early evening drink;you might choose grand cafsSchiller (see p113) and De Kroon(see p50), as popular at the turnof the 20th century as they arenow. d Map N6Museum Willet-Holthuysen

    Magere Brug

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    Blooms at the Bloemenmarkt

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    Flower PowerThe Dutch adore flowers,particularly tulips. They are

    everywhere, on window boxes, inhouses, in shops and markets.

    You can buy bulbs at theBloemenmarkt, visit the vast

    flower auction at Aalsmeer andthe spring spectacle at Keukenhof(see p72-3), and cycle through the

    bulbfields near Leiden. But youwont find the mythical black tulip:it doesnt exist, though breeders

    are very getting close to it.

    Tuschinski TheatreAmsterdams perhaps the

    worlds most elaborate cinemawas the extraordinary creation ofa driven, self-made Jewish tailorfrom Poland. Obsessed by filmand the belief that it couldchange lives, he masterminded avast team of craftsmen andconjured the cinema, in 1921, ina slum known as Devils Corner.He was later to perish inAuschwitz, but his wonderfulcreation loosely Art Nouveau,but termed Tuschinski Style forits unique mixture of influences lives on. In 2002 it reopened,after a multi-million dollarrenovation. In the process,hitherto unknown paintings ofVogue-style ladies wereuncovered, and the theatre hasbeen returned to its formerbreathtaking glory. Buy a ticketfor Screen One to admire themain theatre before the lights godown. d Reguliersbreestraat 2628 Map N6

    MunttorenTake a close look at the Mint

    Tower (it was briefly used as thecity mint in 1673). Its bottomhalf is the remnant of a gate inthe medieval city wall. When thegate burned down in 1618,Hendrick de Keyser slapped one

    of his clock towers (see p42) ontop of the remains. The carillonof 1699 rings every 15 minutes.Today, there is a gift shop on theground floor. d Map N5

    BloemenmarktUndoubtedly one of

    Amsterdams most picturesquesights, the flower market is amagnet for tourists. There arelocal shoppers too, buyingarmfuls for their houses, whilevisitors arrange for bulbs to bemailed home. Vendors oncesailed up the Amstel from theirnurseries to this spot on theSingel, selling their wares directlyfrom their boats. Nowadays thestalls are still floating, thoughyou wouldnt know it as they feelfirmly fixed. d Map M5

    SpiegelkwartierIn the late 19th century,

    specialist antique dealers with aneye for an opportunity began toset up shop on NieuweSpiegelstraat, leading to thenewly opened Rijksmuseum.There are more than 80 of themin the area now, making it asparkling, elegant place in whichto stroll. Content yourself withlooking longingly at the gleamingdisplays of antique furniture,porcelain and glass, or treatyourself to a faded old Delft tilefor just a few euros from Kramer(see p112). d Map D5

  • From Utrechtsestraat crossto Amstelveld, where thewooden Amstelkerk lendsa countrified air, andReguliersgracht (see p8)intersects picturesquelywith Prinsengracht. Makeyour way along Prinsen-gracht, cross Vijzelstraat,and dive into Wetering-buurt. On the other side ofPrinsengracht, admireelegant Deutzenhofje (Nos85599), erected in 1695for destitute women.

    From here, its only a shortwalk to the Museum VanLoon (see pp3031), or alittle further to MuseumWillet-Holthuysen (seep107), after which you canwind down with a drink injolly Rembrandtplein. Bestcafs are Schiller (see p113)and De Kroon (see p50).

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    Check out new photography museum Foam at Keizersgracht 609.

    On a fine stretch of theAmstel River, daintyMagere Brug makes agood spot to begin.Walking north, follow therivers curve, pausing atAmstel 104 and its equallycrooked neighbours.Reaching Munttoren,wander along theBloemenmarkt, then headdown Reguliersbreestraat,where you can check youremail at easyEverything(No. 22) before checkingout the incredibleTuschinski Theatre a littlefurther along the street.

    Chic Utrechtsestraat, withits appealing selection ofrestaurants, cafs, delicat-essens, boutiques andgalleries, is perfect forboth shopping and lunch.The best Indonesianrijsttafel in town is servedat Tujuh Maret (see p61).

    Exploring the EasternCanal Ring

    Morning

    Afternoon

    Heineken ExperienceThe biggest draw to

    Heinekens former brewery,which ceased production here in1988, must be the free beer atthe end of the tour (if you areover 18). On the way, you willlearn the story of Hollands mostfamous brewery, walk throughthe brewhouse with its hugecopper stills, and visit thestables. The dray horses here arestill to be seen carting beer, butonly for publicity purposes. dStadhouderskade 78 Map D6 020523 9666 www.heinekenexperience.com Open 10am6pm (box office5pm) TueSun Admission charge

    Albert CuypmarktShabby but vibrant, De Pijp

    is a district where a wide mix ofimmigrants, artists, students andyoung couples create a headyatmosphere. Albert Cuypmarkt,which has been trading since1904, is its bustling hub. Thestreet it occupies, once a canal,was named after Dutchlandscape painter Albert Cuyp.With around 350 stalls, backedby all manner of shops andethnic restaurants, its anunmissable experience. TypicallyDutch food stalls cheese, fish,waffles jostle merrily withclothes, fabrics, shoes and bags,all selling at rock-bottom prices.d Albert Cuypstraat Map D6 Open9:30am5pm MonSat

    Smoked fish in Albert Cuypmarkt

  • 110

    BarsKingfisherWith its modern take on the

    brown bar style, this large bar isone of the best watering-holes inthe Pijp. Imaginative worldcuisine. d Ferdinand Bolstraat 24 Map D6 020 671 2395

    LellebelAmsterdam's infamous

    and only dragshow bar, thecomplete antithesis of thetestosterone-fuelled Rembrandt-plein nearby. At first glance it'sunremarkable, but when ShirleyBassey is turned up on thesoundsystem, the bar staffperform quite some routine. dUtrechtsestraat 4 Map P6

    MulligansIf youre tired of the

    Rembrandtplein, pop round thecorner to this authentic Irish barfor some good craic. d Amstel 100 Map P6

    Onder de OoievaarMore of a wintertime bar,

    Under the Stork is warm,wooden and spacious. d Utrechtse-

    straat 119 Map E5

    SohoThe English pub

    formula worked sowell that Soho hasbecome the biggestpint- and punter-puller on Amster-dam's trendy gaystreet. d Reguliers-dwarsstraat 36 Map M6

    AprilA large, modern, comfortable

    gay bar that's great for reading anewspaper in the day or meetingup for drinks pre-clubbing.Unusual feature: the circular backbar revolves when it gets busy. dReguliersdwarsstraat 37 Map M6

    Chocolate BarThis trendy lounge bar-

    restaurant is a relatively newadddition to the Pijp area. dEerste van der Helststraat 62 Map D6

    De DuivelCypress Hill and The Roots

    have joined the boisterous baggybrigade at Amsterdam's smallbut legendary hip hop bar. Thesedays, the hip hop is melted downwith anything from funk to disco.d Reguliersdwarsstraat 87 Map N6

    De HuyschkaemerA corner-located, split-level

    designer bar popular with ayoung arty crowd. Greatatmosphere and friendly staff. dUtrechtsestraat 137 Map E5 020 627 0575

    MME JeanetteKnock back the

    cocktails while a DJspins chillout musicand upbeat house atthis lounge bar-cum-restaurant servinginternational cuisine.d Eerste van derHelststraat 42 Map D6 020 673 3332

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    Roses CantinaThis Mexican cantina has

    Tex-Mex down to a tee thefood is varied and delicious, andthe margaritas are served inpitchers! d Reguliersdwarsstraat 38 Map M6 020 625 9797

    SSKHanneke cooks fresh produce

    shes bought from the marketsthat day, and serves you fromher open kitchen. One of the citysbest kept secrets. d Falckstraat 3 Map E5 020 330 1128

    UtrechtsedwarfstafelPick a number of courses,

    choose a range from simple togastronomic, and leave the restto the wine connoisseur andcook duo who run this unusualeaterie. d Utrechtsedwarsstraat 107-109 Map E5 020 625 4189

    BeddingtonsThe menu at Jean

    Beddingtons new restaurant istruly international, offeringexciting dishes with hints ofJapan, the Mediterranean and

    England. d Utrechtse-dwarsstraat 141 Map E5 020 620 7393

    ZushiHyper-modern

    and hyped-up, this isthe place to be ifyou like your sushiwith a zing. d Amstel20 Map P6 020 3306882

    EufraatThe dcor leaves a little to

    be desired, but the fresh food atthis Assyrian caf makes itperpetually popular. A favouritehaunt of revered (and feared)Amsterdam food critic Johannesvan Dam. d Eerste van der Helststraat72 Map D6 020 672 0579

    The Golden TempleVegetarian restaurant run by

    American Sikhs offering a rangeof Indian, Middle Eastern andMexican food with a home-cooked feel. d Utrechtsestraat 26 Map E5 020 626 8650

    Inez IPSCA discreet door leads up to

    this trendy establishment forthose with adventurous tastebuds and fat wallets. d Amstel 2 Map N5 020 639 2899

    KitschAficianados of kitsch will love

    the style of this perfectly pinkrestaurant. Ask for the cornermattress when booking, or atable with its own waterfountain. d Utrechtse-straat 42 Map E5 020625 9251

    MokoIndulge your

    hedonistic tenden-cies at this fabulousbar-restaurant at aprice, of course. dAmstelveld 12 Map E5 020 626 1199

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  • 112

    Antique ShopsEduard KramerDecorative Dutch tiles, Blue

    Delftware, antique books, prints,pewter, candlesticks and lamps.d Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 64 Map D5

    Thom & Lenny NelisA fascinating collection of

    medical instruments dating fromthe early 18th to the early 20thcentury. Dissection kits, dentaltools, apothecary accoutrementsand much more! d Keizersgracht 541 Map M6

    Tth-IkonenThe only icon specialist in the

    Spiegelkwartier, and the oldest inAmsterdam. Behold a dazzlingarray of 16th- to 19th-centuryRussian icons including a largecollection of brass travelling icons.d Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 68 Map D5

    Marjan SterkAn exquisite selection of

    antique, Art Deco and ArtNouveau jewellery, plus 18th-and 19th-century Dutch silver. dNieuwe Spiegelstraat 63 Map D5

    Van DrevenAntiquair

    Alive with the soundof ticking, this shopproffers an eclecticselection of clocksfrom the early 17thcentury to the 1930s,plus a treasuredcollection of musicboxes. d NieuweSpiegelstraat 38 Map D5

    AalderinkAalderink is the oldest and

    most reputable dealer of AsianArt and Ethnographics in theNetherlands, specializing in fineJapanese netsuke and okimono.d Spiegelgracht 15 Map D5

    Aronson AntiquairsDavid Aronson opened this

    prestigious gallery around 1900;now it is run by his great- andgreat-great-grandsons. EarlyDelftware, continental 17th- and18th-century furniture, plusChinese famille verte and famillerose porcelain much of it rare.d Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 39 Map D5

    E H Arins Kappers /C P J van der Peet BV

    This husband and wife teamoffers a huge range of mid 16th-to mid-20th-century prints,including a remarkable selectionof Japanese woodblock prints. dNieuwe Spiegelstraat 32 Map D5

    Galerie Elisabeth denBieman de Haas

    Purveyors of fine contemporaryart. d NieuweSpiegelstraat 44 Map D5

    FransLeidelmeijer

    A testament totaste, this decorativearts shop wasfeatured in an issueof Wallpaper* not solong ago. d NieuweSpiegelstraat 58 Map D5

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    Heineken ExperienceIf you're here for the beer,

    this self-guided tour of the originalHeineken brewery is a must.Entrance includes three glassesof the famous brew (see p109).

    Magere BrugThe citys best-known bridge

    worth a wander for perfectphoto opportunites, the stunningviews, or simply to watch thedrawbridge in action. Romantic atnight when it's all lit up (see p11).

    The OthersideFor a perfectly pink joint,

    head to the city's only gaycoffeeshop a bright, modern,friendly place. d Reguliersdwarsstraat6 Map M6

    Schiller HotelThe bar and restaurant are a

    gorgeous Art Nouveau escapefrom touristic Rembrandtplein.Owned for the best part of thelast century by painter FritsSchiller, it was a regular meetingplace for artists, and still hassomething of that atmosphere.

    Schillers paintingsare displayedthroughout thepremises (see p146).

    Village BagelsDelicious bagels

    and fresh juices areserved at this NewYork-style bagelshop. d Vijzelstraat 137 Map D5

    BackstageA bizarre caf-cum-crochet

    store run by Gary, one half of thelegendary Christmas Twins, aUS cabaret duo. Pop in here forsome foam in rome (cappucino),a spontaneous horoscope readingby Gary, or simply for cake andgossip. d Utrechtsedwarsstraat 67 Map E5

    BloemenmarktThe legendary floating

    flower market (see p108).

    ConcertoSimply the best record store

    in town; new and secondhand. dUtrechtsestraat 5260 Map E5

    Soup en ZoThis one-stop modern soup

    kitchen is just a short walk fromthe Rijksmuseum. Great for take-aways, but some seats areavailable. Over half the soups arevegetarian. d Nieuwe Spiegelstraat 54 Map D5

    Hemp HotelLittle escapes being

    hempified at thissmall, family-runhotel from thehemp futons to thefresh hemp muffinsserved at breakfast,and the hemp beerserved in the late-opening HempleTemple Nightbar. dFrederiksplein 15 MapE5 020 625 4425

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    Rijksmuseum

    UNTIL THE LATE 19TH CENTURY, the Museum Quarter lay outside the citylimits, a region of small farms and market gardens. Then the city councildesignated it an area of art and culture, and plans were conceived for thefirst of Amsterdams celebrated cultural institutions. With its great museumsof art, an internationally renowned concert hall, the citys largest park and aclutch of exclusive shopping streets, the Museum Quarter is today one ofAmsterdams most impressive areas.

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    RijksmuseumEstablished by King Louis

    Napoleon in 1808 along the linesof the Paris Louvre, theRijksmuseum collection hasgrown in the intervening years to nearly seven million works ofart. It has moved twice since itsbeginnings in the Royal Palaceon the Dam. Since 1885 it hasbeen housed in P J H Cuypersornate Neo-Gothic building (seepp1215).

    Van Gogh MuseumThe uncompromisingly

    modern building by De Stijlarchitect Gerrit Rietveld wasspecially designed to display the nations collection of thisdisturbed yet brilliant artistswork (see pp1619).

    Stedelijk MuseumDevoted to modern art from

    the mid-19th century to thepresent day, this invigoratingmuseum is undergoing a totalrenovation. Until it reopens in2007, works will be on display atthe old TPG Post building(Oosterdokskade 3, Map R2). dPaulus Potterstraat 13 Map C6 020573 2911 www.stedelijk.nl

    ConcertgebouwOne of the worlds

    great concert halls, the Concertgebouw was built in 1888,designed by A L VanGendt in Neo-DutchRenaissance stylewith a colonnadedNeo-Classical faade.In the 1980s, thebuilding wasdiscovered to be indanger of collapse. In time for thecentenary of both the concert hall and

    its world-famous orchestra, newfoundations were laid, and thebuilding was restored andenlarged. Amazingly, all this tookplace without its having to close.d Concertgebouwplein 26 Map C6 020 671 8345 www.concertgebouw.nl Box office open 10am7pm daily

    VondelparkFounded in 1864 by a group

    of philanthropic citizens, thiscongenial park was later namedafter the 17th-century poet Joostvan den Vondel. Landscaped oninformal English lines in 1865 and enlarged in 1877 by fatherand son J D and L P Zocher, withwide green vistas, a profusion oftrees and lakes, a rose gardenand a bandstand, it became amecca for hippies in the late1960s and 1970s. It is still alively place on summer Sundays,when people flock to hearconcerts and plays in the open-air theatre, glimpse theoccasional juggler or fire-eater,jog, rollerblade or play football.There are many different speciesof plants, trees and wildlife. Adistinctive landmark, looking alittle like a neat boater turnedupside-down, is the roundBlauwe Theehuis (teahouse),built by H A J Baanders in 1936in the New Functionalist style. dStadhouderskade Map A6

    Bandstand in Vondelpark

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    DiamondsAmsterdam has been a centre of

    diamond cutting, polishing andtrading since the 16th century,

    when Jews, fleeing the SpanishInquisition, brought the businessto the city. The trade flourished in

    the late 19th century with theinflux of Jews from Antwerp,many of them skilled in the

    industry, and with the import ofdiamonds from South Africa.

    Coster DiamondsFounded in 1840 and now

    occupying three grand villas,Coster is one of a handful ofdiamond workshops offeringguided tours. About 30 minutesin length, they give you theopportunity to observe stonegraders, cutters and polishers atwork. In 1852, the Koh-i-Noor(mountain of light) diamond wasre-polished here for the BritishCrown Jewels, and a replica ofthe crown that contains it incorporating a copy of thefabulous blue-white stone isdisplayed in the entrance hall. Ifyour budget will allow it, thereare also diamonds and jewelleryfor sale over the counter. dPaulus Potterstraat 28 Map C5 020305 5555 www.costerdiamonds.com Open 9am5pm daily Free

    MuseumpleinThe citys largest square was

    first landscaped in 1872, but itwas ruined in 1953 when a hair-raising stretch of road whichlocals nicknamed the shortestmotorway in Europe was builtacross it. Completely redesignedbetween 1990 and 1996, it isnow a great swathe of green,still more functional than beautiful,but giving an uninterrupted viewfrom the Rijksmuseum to theConcertgebouw. It has childrensplay areas and a pond that isfrozen over to form an ice-rink inwinter. Various events are stagedhere from circuses to politicaldemonstrations and it is thesetting for Hel van Vuur (Hell ofFire), a monument to all gypsiespersecuted by the Nazis, as wellas the Ravensbrck Memorial(see p49). The district is one ofthe wealthiest in Amsterdam,with broad streets lined by grandhouses. d Map C6

    Nederlands FilmmuseumMuseum is a slight

    misnomer for this institution, asthe Nederlands Filmmuseum nolonger has an exhibition. What itdoes have is an archive of morethan 30,000 films, ranging fromclassic to art-house, a selectionof which is screened herethroughout the year. The entirecollection is housed in a glorious19th-century pavilion at the edgeof the Vondelpark. The building,designed by the architects P JHamer and his son W Hamer,opened in 1881 as a fashionableteahouse. It has since undergonetwo major renovations, in 1947and 1991. d Vondelpark 3 Map B5 Box Office: 020 589 1400.www.filmmuseum.nl InformationCentre: Vondelstraat 6971. 020 5891435 Open 10am5pm TueThu,11am5pm SatCoster Diamonds

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    Hollandsche Manege

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    Depending on your tastein art, start the day eitherin the Rijksmuseum (seepp1215) or the Van GoghMuseum (see pp1619). Ifyou choose the former, beselective, and do bear inmind that from late 2003,the main building will beclosed for restoration, (seep12). Whichever museumyou visit, you should aimto spend the wholemorning there. The VanGogh Museum has auseful ground floor caf,and you can end your visitwith a browse in themuseum shop next to themain entrance.

    Next, cross Museumpleinto the Concertgebouw(see p115) and pop in for alook. Make your way to ArtDeco Brasserie van Baerle(Van Baerlestraat 158) forlunch. It has a lovely shadygarden and is popular, soits worth booking a table.

    Head back to PaulusPotterstraat and CosterDiamonds, where youcould take one of the half-hour tours. Afterwards,walk along Hobbemastraatuntil you reach the elegantshops of P C Hooftstraat.Turn left and window-shopyour way along the street.

    If your feet are up to it,spend an hour or so stroll-ing around the Vondelpark,finishing either at theBlauwe Theehuis (see p50)or the NederlandsFilmmuseums CafVertigo, which has a lovelyterrace overlooking thepark. You could end with avisit to the HollandscheManege, which opens tillmidnight on weekdays.

    A Day in the MuseumQuarter

    Morning

    Afternoon

    Hollandsche ManegeMagnificent and quite

    unexpected, concealed behindan unexceptional faade, A L vanGendts Hollandsche Manege is avast Neo-Classical indoor ridingschool, built in 1881. (It wascommissioned to replace theoriginal Dutch Riding Schoolbuilding, which was situated onLeidsegracht.) Based on theSpanish Riding School in Vienna,it sports elegant plasterwork,sculpted horses heads, and astunning open ironwork roofrising high above the sand arena.The school was threatened withdemolition in the 1980s, butpublic outcry saved it. If there isa lesson in progress, you canstay and watch. There is also acaf. d Vondelstraat 140 Map B5 020 618 0942 Open 10ammidnightWedFri, 10am6pm Sat & Sun,2pmmidnight MonTue Free

    P C HooftstraatThis elegant shopping street

    is to Amsterdam what BondStreet is to London. All thenames in international fashionare here Tommy Hilfiger, HugoBoss, DKNY, Gucci, Mulberry,Emporio Armani although well-heeled locals tend to favourfriendlier Cornelis Schuystraatnearby. d Map C5

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    Food and DrinkDe Groene GewoonteIf you like your food pure,

    head for this small, organicrestaurant on a rather ordinarystreet. d Tweede Helmersstraat 3 Map J6 020 689 8952

    De OrientA family-run Indonesian

    restaurant serving good-value,creative meals with plenty totempt the vegetarian pallet. dVan Baerlestraat 21 Map C6 020 6734958

    Caf ToussaintThis charming caf-bar has

    an open kitchen from whichdelicious lunches and dinners areserved. Ideal for relaxed, sunnydays or warm, intimate evenings.d Bosboom Toussaintstraat 26 Map J6 020 685 0737

    WildschutTake in the surrounding

    Amsterdam School architecturalstyles from the terrace of thisgrand caf famous for its ArtDeco interior. d Roelof Hartplein 13 020 676 8220

    Bakkerswinkel van NinetiesThis bakery with seats inside

    is an ideal spot for breakfast, lunchor high tea but beware, it canget crowded. d Roelof Hartstraat 68

    New CadansChef Ronald Geul serves up

    French cuisine in this classy newestablishment. d Roelof Hartstraat68 020 676 5201

    Brasserie van BaerleThis polished contemporary

    brasserie is popular with Dutchcelebs for its well-reputed winelist, imaginative French cuisine,languishing lunches and hedonisticSunday brunches. d Van Baerlestraat158 Map C6 020 679 1532

    CoBrA CafDesigner caf on Museum-

    plein created as an ode to themembers of the CoBrA artmovement. Wine and dine in therestaurant, or go Japanese at thestylish sushi bar. d Hobbemastraat18 Map C6 020 470 0111

    Caf EbelingA relaxed, spacious bar

    popular with a younger, trendiercrowd. d Overtoom 52 Map C5

    Le GarageThe famous and beautiful of

    Amsterdam fill their tummiesand empty their wallets here.The food is a delicate fusion ofFrench with international cuisine.d Ruysdaelstraat 5456 Map C6 020679 7176

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    Hollandsche ManegeOne of the more unusual

    places to stop for a drink in town.The upstairs caf of this stablesoverlooks the sand arena below asclasses are being held (see p117).

    De PeperwortelJust two minutes from the

    Filmmuseum, this charmingtraiteur is ideally placed forpicnicking in the park. Deliciousquiches, pasta, salads and soup,with vegetarians particularly wellcatered for. Plus a choiceselection of wine. d Overtoom 140 Map B5

    VondelparkOpenluchttheater

    Catch a bit of drama, flamenco,puppetry or pop in the Vondel-parks open-air theatre. d Vondelpark Map B6 end Mayend Aug: WedSun

    ZuiderbadThis recently restored Art

    Nouveau swimming pool, datingfrom 1911, is the city's moststylish place to bathe.d Hobbemastraat 26 Map D6

    Van Altena ZeebanketOne of the best places in

    town to try the traditional Dutchcustom of slipping a raw herringdown your gullet. The less bravecan settle for a salmon sandwich.d Stadhouderskade 41 Map D5

    Het Blauwe TheehuisThis teahouse in the Vondel-

    park is one of the city's best-kept secrets, despite its centrallocation. d Vondelpark Map B6

    Broekmans & Van PoppelFounded in 1914, this store

    has one of the largest collectionsof sheet music in the world. dVan Baerlestraat 9294 Map C6

    ConcertgebouwEvery Wednesday at

    12:30pm (except in summer)there are free lunchtimeconcerts here. Atmosphereinformal, quality unsurpassed;queue early (see p115).

    FilmmuseumDon't miss the live musical

    performances to silent classics,or the open-air screenings fromthe historic building's balcony insummer (see p116).

    Friday Night SkateJoin this huge group of

    skaters for a free, two-hour, 15km (9 mile) tour of the city.Anyone who is reasonablyproficient can join in. Gatherfrom 8pm. d Vondelpark (RoemerVisscherstraat entrance) Map C5

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    For more information on the Friday Night Skate, visitwww.fridaynightskate.com

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    Entrepotdok

    VISITORS FLOCK TO AMSTERDAMS EXCELLENT ZOO, but the rest of thisdistinguished residential district, with its elegant villas and broad, tree-lined streets, is often overlooked. Most of the villas appeared in the 19thcentury, many of them occupied by Jews who had prospered in the diamondindustry, and the neighbourhoods strong Jewish tradition is reflected in itsnumerous memorials. Plantage means plantation: this was a rural area untilthe final extension of the Grachtengordel in 1638. Despite its tranquillity,there is no shortage of places to visit and sights to see.

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    Nederlands ScheepvaartMuseum

    For anyone who loves ships, themaritime museum is a must.Where sails, ropes, guns andmunitions were once stored isnow an Aladdins Cave of nauticaltreasures. Dont miss the RoyalBarge on the ground floor andthe East Indiaman Amsterdam,moored outside (see pp41 and68). The museum is closed forrenovation from 2005 to 2007. dKattenburgerplein 1 Map G3 020523 2222 www.scheepvaart-museum.nl Open 10am5pmTueSun & public hols; also open10am5pm Mon during schoolholidays Admission charge

    ArtisIf you want to give human

    culture a break, the zoologicalgarden makes a terrific contrast.About 900 species are kept inreasonably naturalistic surround-ings, including a recently createdAfrican landscape. Watch theJapanese monkeys groomingone another, the reptilesslithering in their steamy jungle,or the polar bears lazing withmenacing unconcern. There areplenty of places where you canshelter from the rain, includingthe Planetarium, Geological andZoological museums, and the

    Aquarium, home to more than2,000 mesmerizing fish. dPlantage Kerklaan 3840 Map G4 020 523 3400 www.artis.nl OpenAprSep: 9am6pm daily; OctMar:9am5pm daily Guided tour 11amSun Admission charge

    EntrepotdokThe flat brick faades of

    these typical 19th-centurywarehouses, punctuated byshuttered, arched windows,seem to stretch endlessly alongthe dockside. When owned bythe Dutch East India Company(VOC), they were declared partof a free port, and no dutieswere levied here on cargoes intransit. Now they have beenconverted into offices andapartments, served by pleasantcafs and restaurants with tablesoutside in summer. d Map G4

    Werf t KromhoutMuseum

    In the 18th century, the Easterndocklands were packed withshipyards. Today this recentlyrestored working yard is one ofthe few remaining. It has surviv-ed by moving with the times concentrating on restorationwhen shipbuilding declined,producing the diesel engine thatpowered most inland waterways

    craft, and doubling asa museum. Itsdisplays include tools,machinery, steamengines, photographsand an exhibition on300 years of ship-building in the area. dHoogte Kadijk 147 MapG4 020 627 6777 www.machinekamer.nl Open 10am3pm Tue Groups by appointment Admission charge

    Artis Planetarium

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    The Dutch East IndiaCompany (VOC)

    Amsterdams wealth in the 17thcentury was in no small measuredue to the success of the VOC.Founded in 1602, it had a trading

    monopoly east of the Cape ofGood Hope. Its legendary fleetof East Indiamen (see p68)

    carried much of Europes spiceimports until it folded in 1791.

    VerzetsmuseumFollowing the development

    of the Dutch Resistance move-ment from the German invasionin May 1940 to the liberation inMay 1945, this exhibition showshow the Dutch people courage-ously faced the occupation. Itsfascinating and evocative displaysrelate private stories of individualheroism and place them in theirhistorical context. Among thememorabilia are forged identitypapers, old photographs, under-ground newspapers and deadlyweapons. d Plantage Kerklaan 61 Map G4 020 620 2535 www.verzetsmuseum.org Open10am5pm TueFri, noon5pm Sat, Sun& public holidays Admission charge

    Hortus BotanicusAbout 8,000 different species

    of plants, flowers and trees, anornamental pond, rock and herb

    gardens, and numerous glass-houses are crammed into thissmall, wedge-shaped botanicalgarden. Most of the exotic plantswere collected by the VOC in the17th and 18th centuries. High-lights are a 300-year old Cycadpalm, the three-climates glass-house and a coffee plant, Europesfirst, smuggled out of Ethiopia in1706. d Plantage Middenlaan 2A Map R5 020 625 9021 www.dehortus.nl Open FebNov: 9am5pmMonFri, 10am5pm Sat, Sun & publicholidays; DecJan: 9am4pm MonFri,10am4pm Sat, Sun & public holidays Admission charge

    De Burcht(Vakbondsmuseum)

    Nicknamed the castle becauseof its crenellated faade, this isthe oldest Trades Union buildingin the Netherlands, built in 1900by H P Berlage of Beurs fame(see p84) for the General DutchDiamond Workers Union (ANDB).Go inside for the stunning tiledentrance hall and staircase, andmurals by Richard Roland Holst ofthe Amsterdam School. d HenriPolaklaan 9 Map F4 020 624 1166 www.deburcht-vakbondsmuseum.nl Open 11am5pm TueFri, 15pm Sun Admission chargeHortus Botanicus

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    Start your day among thecannons, models, figure-heads, maps and instru-ments of the NederlandsScheepvaart Museum(see p123), then reviveyourself at the pleasantground-floor caf. If yousecretly hanker after a ship-in-a-bottle, a cutlass paperknife or other objects witha nautical theme, visit themuseum shop before youleave. Outside, take a lookaround the Amsterdam, thefull-size replica of an 18th-century East Indiaman,manned by actors.

    If it is a Tuesday and youhavent yet had your fill ofboats, take a short detourto the Werf t KromhoutMuseum (see p123) tosee some shipbuilding inprogress or, at the veryleast, the exhibition aboutit. Lunch at one of the cafsin Entrepotdok such asCaf t Kromhout at No. 36.

    After lunch, you couldmake your way toPlantage Kerklaan and theVerzetsmuseum (seefacing page). A visit hereis definitely worthwhile, ifharrowing. Afterwards,blow the cobwebs awayby spending an hour ortwo at Artis (see p123).For a few euros, theexcellent zoo plan givesyou feeding times, as wellas pinpointing the twomuseums and therevamped Aquarium. Headback towards the mainentrance, where there is acaf, and a shop sellinggoods with a wildlifetheme. If there is time,you could finish yourexplorations with a quickdash around the solarsystem at the Planetarium.

    A Day in the Plantage

    Morning

    Afternoon

    Hollandsche SchouwburgDuring the Nazi occupation,

    this former theatre was used asan assembly-point for thousandsof Jews. Behind an intact faade,a garden has been created arounda basalt monument on the site ofthe auditorium. The names of6,700 Dutch Jews are engravedin a memorial hall to the 104,000who were exterminated. There isan exhibition upstairs. d PlantageMiddenlaan 24 Map F4 020 6269945 www.hollandscheschouwburg.nl Open 11am4pm daily Closed YomKippur Free

    Koninklijk Theater CarrIt is hard to believe that the

    magnificent Carr Theatre,superbly set beside the Amstel,was built at break-neck speed in1887 to house Oscar Carrscircus. A copy of his other circusin Cologne, it has a fine Neo-Renaissance frontage, somesplendid ironwork, and isdecorated appropriately with theheads of clowns and dancers.Today, it hosts pop concerts,dance shows, lavish musicals,and even the occasional circus.d Amstel 11525 Map F5 0900 2525255 www.theatercarre.nl Box officeopen 10am7pm MonSat, 1pm7pmSun Guided tours 3pm Wed & Sat

    AmstelhofWhen this sober hofje was

    completed in 1683, it was thewidest building in Amsterdam. Itwas part of the final phase ofwork on the Grachtengordel (seep11), when the three canals wereextended beyond the Amstel andgiven the prefix Nieuwe. Thebuilding now houses theHermitage Amsterdam, a satelliteof the Hermitage, St Petersburg(first phase was opened in Feb-ruary 2004: www.hermitage.nl).d Amstel 51 Map E4

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    De Dageraad Housing

    CENTRAL AMSTERDAM HAS MORE THAN ENOUGH to keep any visitoroccupied, but if time permits, its certainly worth taking the trouble toexplore the outskirts, where a diverse selection of sights is on offer. Footballfans will want to make a beeline for the citys stunning new stadium,Amsterdam ArenA, home of legendary soccer club Ajax. There are fascinatingexhibits on view at the Cobra Museum, the Tropenmuseum and NEMO. If youare interested in architecture, make sure that you see the innovative 1920sbuildings of the De Dageraad housing estate. If its peace and quiet youwant, there are several choices, including the small, historic town ofOuderkerk aan de Amstel older than Amsterdam itself and the wideopen spaces of Amsterdamse Bos. The citys excellent transport systemmakes all these sights easily accessible, and some of them are not far fromthe centre or from each other.

    Further Afield

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    TropenmuseumTake a trip around the world

    without leaving this imposing1920s building, originallyconceived to celebrate Dutchcolonialism but now redeployed to educate visitors about thedeveloping world. Reconstructions whether of an Arabian bazaar, anAfrican village or an Indian slum are vividly brought to life with thehelp of soundtracks and evensmells. The separate Tropen-museum Junior is strictly for612-year-olds (no admission toan adult unless accompanied bya child), by appointment, withguided tours in Dutch. dLinnaeusstraat 2 Tram 9, 10, 14; bus 22 Tropenmuseum: 020 568 8215 Tropenmuseum Junior: 020 568 8233 www.tropenmuseum.nl www.tropenmuseumjunior.nl Open10am5pm daily Admission charge

    De Dageraad HousingA housing estate seems an

    unlikely tourist attraction, but thecomplex built for the De Dageraad(Dawn) housing association from191823 is well worth a visit especially for anyone interestedin the Amsterdam School ofArchitecture. Piet Kramer andMichel de Klerk designedsculptural buildings of greatoriginality, with tiled roofs thatundulate in waves, and brickwalls that billow and curve. Theproject was part of an initiative

    to provide better housing forpoorer families, in the wake ofthe revolutionary Housing Act of1901. d Pieter Lodewijk Takstraat Tram4,12,25

    AmstelparkThis welcome green space to

    the south of the city has a rosegarden, a maze and an art galleryfor adults, as well as pony rides,farm animals and a miniaturesteam train for children. Best ofall, at the southernmost tip of thepark, is the well-preserved DeRieker windmill. Built in 1636, it was a favourite of Rembrandt,whose statue stands nearby.Now a private home, its sails areunfurled on National WindmillDay (second Sat in May). dEuropaboulevard Metro RAI; Tram 4;Bus 66, 199 Open dawndusk

    Ajax MuseumFootball fans will want to

    pay their respects to the brilliantAjax club at their impressive newstadium, Amsterdam ArenA. Visitthe interactive museum, whichbrings the club and its greatestmoments to life, and tour thestate-of-the-art 50,000-seatstadium. There are usually sixtours a day in summer, four inwinter, except on event days;phone ahead for times. d ArenaBoulevard 1 Metro to Strandvliet orBijlmer; train to Bijlmer 020 311 1333/020 311 1336 www.amsterdamarena.nl Open AprOct: 10am6pm daily; NovMar: 10am5pm daily Admission charge

    Tropenmuseum

    Ajax Museum

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    Amsterdamse Bos

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    City of CyclistsCycling comes as naturally to

    Amsterdammers as walking, royalfamily included. There are about

    600,000 bikes in the city almostone per person. Theft is endemic,

    so snazzy models are avoided.Look out for: the huge bike shedat Centraal Station; bikes being

    dredged up from canals; theeight-man conference bike and

    the heart-shaped love bike.

    Ouderkerk aan de AmstelThere was no church in

    town until 1330 (see p28), sopeople came instead to thispicturesque riverside village toworship at the 11th-centuryOude Kerk that stood here untilit was destroyed by a storm in1674. Convivial waterside cafsand restaurants are the chief lurethese days, but you can alsowalk in the wooded garden of an18th-century house, WesterAmstel, and visit an unexpectedsite: the Beth Haim Jewishcemetery. Amsterdams Jewshave been buried here since1615, when they were forbiddenburial in the city. d Metro or train toBijlmer, then bus 175

    Amsterdamse BosJust a short bus, old-

    fashioned tram (see p68) or bikeride away, this attractive woodlandpark makes a wonderful contrastto the city. Laid out on reclaimedland in the 1930s with the dualpurpose of creating jobs for theunemployed and providing morerecreation space, the park haswoods and meadows, lakes andnature reserves. There is plentyto do: hire bicycles, go boating,eat pancakes, visit the bison andthe goats and the Bos Museum,which describes the park and howit was built. d Amstelveenseweg Bus 170, 172 Open permanently

    Cobra MuseumThis museum of modern art

    in residential Amstelveen isdedicated in part to the influentialDutch movement conceived in1948. Its founders, includingDutchman Karel Appel (see p47)amalgamated the names of theirhome cities Copenhagen,Brussels and Amsterdam tocreate its name: CoBrA. Theywanted to promote art that wasspontaneous and inclusive, andwere inspired by the work ofprimitives, children and thementally ill. Paintings in thepermanent collection are shownin changing thematic displays,augmented by temporary exhib-itions. The light, spare building,by Wim Quist, opened in 1995. d Sandbergplein 13, Amstelveen Tram 5 to Binnenhof 020 547 5050 www.cobra-museum.nl Open 11am5pm TueSun Admission charge

    Java Eiland and KNSMEiland

    These former docks, outposts ofthe Eastern Islands, have beenthe subject of intense develop-ment and renovation in the lastdecade, in response to the citysneed for new housing. They arenow considered trendy places to live, and designer home shops,boutiques, restaurants and cafsare springing up. They are mosteasily reached by the two bridgesfrom Oostelijke Handelskade. dFerry from Centraal Station or Bus 32, 59

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    Catch the Electrische Museumtramlijn at Haarlemmermeerstation(No.16 tram from Centraal Station).

    You dont have to takechildren to enjoy thissuggested day out, but itwill appeal to them if youdo. Its wise to phone theAjax Museum in advance,to check on its tour times.

    Start by taking tram 9, 10or 14, or bus 22 to theTropenmuseum (seep127), where you can takea whistlestop tour of thedeveloping world. After-wards, have an exoticlunch in the museumslush caf-restaurant,Ekeko, and dont forgetthe shop, with its range ofethnic gifts.

    Walk along Linnaeusstraat,leaving Oosterpark on yourright, and turn left alongDomselaerstraat to findMuiderpoort Station. Catchone of the frequent stop-treins in the direction ofUtrecht for the 9-minuteride to Bijlmer Station tovisit the Amsterdam ArenA.The Ajax Museum (seepage 127) and its guidedtour of the stadium will fillyour afternoon.

    If you want to extend yourtrip into the evening,consider taking a shortbus ride (Nos 174 or 175)from Bijlmer station to thepicturesque village ofOuderkerk aan deAmstel, with its watersidecafs and restaurants.

    If its a Sunday betweenApril and October, youmay prefer to take a daytrip to Amsterdamse Bos(and perhaps to the CobraMuseum at Amstelveen),using the ElectrischeMuseumtramlijn to getyou there and back.

    A Day Out with theKids

    Morning

    Afternoon

    NEMOThe most arresting feature

    of this interactive science andtechnology centre the largestin the Netherlands is thebuilding itself. Designed byRenzo Piano, its harbour location(in the Eastern Islands) gave theimpetus for a green copperstructure resembling a vast ship.The great views from the topdeck will certainly appeal, even ifthe hands-on games, experimentsand demonstrations, designed toentertain and educate bothchildren and adults, do not. dOosterdok 2 Bus 22, 32 0900 9191100 www.e-nemo.nl Open10am5pm TueSun, also Mon duringschool holidays Admission charge

    GemeentearchiefAmsterdam

    This elaborate 19th-centurybuilding, with its ornate Neo-Renaissance faade, used to bethe town hall of Nieuwer Amstel,which became part of Amster-dam in 1869. It has housed thecitys municipal archives since1914. The oldest document is theToll of Privileges dating from1275. The Digitaal Archief hasthousands of photographs ofAmsterdam from the mid-19thcentury to the present dayonline. d Amsteldijk 67 Tram 3, 4 572 0202 www.gemeentearchief.amsterdam.nl Open 10am5pmMonSat Closed public holidays

    NEMO

  • AMSTERDAM

    S TOP 10

    STREETSMARTPlanning Your Trip

    132

    Arriving in Amsterdam133

    Sources of Information134

    Getting Around135

    Sightseeing136

    Amsterdam on a Budget137

    Shopping Tips138

    Amsterdam for theDisabled

    139

    Things to Avoid140

    Banking &Communications

    141

    Security and Health142

    Amsterdam for Students143

    Hotels144149

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    Planning Your TripCustomsApart from offensive

    weapons, plants andperishable foods, thereare few limits on whatEU nationals can importfor personal use. Non-EUcitizens can buy duty-freegoods up to the currentlimit. Cats and dogs areallowed, provided theyhave a certificate ofinoculation againstrabies. Flower bulbs maybe exported from theNetherlands; for the USA,an inoculation certificatefrom the Plant ProtectionService is required. Bulbsare best mailed home;the dealer should carryout all the paperwork.

    CurrencyFor security, bring a

    cash card or travellerscheques. Make sure thatyour cash withdrawalcard is accepted in theNetherlands most are.Bring some euros to payfor immediate needs onarrival. There is no limiton how much currencyyou can bring in or takeout of the country.

    DrivingIf you are planning to

    drive your own car, youmust bring an EU orInternational DriversLicence, valid insurancedocuments, proof ofregistration, road safetycertificate and inter-national identificationdisc. To hire a car, youmust be 21 or over, witha valid driving licence anda credit card.

    Choosing an AreaMost tourist hotels

    are to be found in one ofthree areas: the historiccentre, the MuseumQuarter and the atmos-pheric Grachtengordel(Canal Ring) with itsgabled canal houses.Many business-orientedhotels are located a littlefurther afield in theNieuw Zuid (New South).

    What to PackBe prepared for all

    weathers, and bring anumbrella, a waterproofjacket and a sweater even in summer.Comfortable walkingshoes are essential.Amsterdammers dressstyle is casual and oftencreative. Few placesinsist on formality casinos are an exception but you can dress upfor concerts and smarthotels and restaurants.

    Passports andOther Documents

    You must have a validpassport to enter theNetherlands. Citizens ofEU countries, the USA,Australia and NewZealand need no visa aslong as the stay is forless than three months.Passports must be validfor at least three monthsbeyond the end of yourstay. Citizens of othercountries should consulttheir Dutch embassy orconsulate for information.It is advisable to take outtravel and health insur-ance before travelling.

    ElectricityThe electricity supply

    in the Netherlands is 220volts AC. British visitorsshould bring a two-pinadaptor for their three-pinplugs. Americans need toconvert their equipmentor buy a transformer, asDutch wall socketsrequire a larger plug.

    Time DifferenceThe Netherlands is

    on Central EuropeanTime, one hour ahead ofGMT. Like the rest of theEU and the USA, itobserves Daylight SavingTime, so it remains onehour ahead of the UK andsix hours ahead of NewYork all year round.

    Childrens NeedsIf you have very

    young children, it is bestto carry them in babyslings; pushchairs aredifficult to manoeuvre onthe cobbled streets, andalmost impossible to geton and off crowdedtrams and canal boats.Most places acceptchildren, except for someexpensive restaurants.

    Public HolidaysPublic holidays are as

    follows: New Years Day(1 Jan); Eerste Paasdag(Easter Monday);Koninginnedag (30 Apr);Bevrijdingsdag (5 May);Hemelvaartsdag(Ascension Day);Pinksteren (Whitsun);Eerste Kerstdag(Christmas Day); TweedeKerstdag (26 Dec).

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    Arriving by TrainWhether you are

    travelling from Britain orfrom mainland Europe,you will arrive at CentraalStation. Its best featureis the Eerste Klas caf(see p51); otherwise, itscrowded and prone topickpockets and drugpushers, so head directlyfor the main entranceand Stationsplein. Hereyou will find the Amster-dam Tourist Board (VVV)and tram stop to the left,bus stops to the right. dEurostar enquiries andreservations: 08705 186186 www.eurostar.com

    Arriving by RoadDrive on the right.

    Speed limits are 100 kph(60 mph) or 120 kph (75mph) on motorways, 80kph (50 mph) outsidecities, and 50 kph (30mph) in built-up areas.From the A10 ring road,the S-routes (marked byblue signs) take you tothe centre of Amsterdam.(See Driving p132.)

    ParkingDriving in Amsterdam

    is best avoided. Stay in ahotel with secure parking,or leave your car in thepark-and-ride facility atAmsterdam Arena, or ina covered public car park(indicated by a white Pon a blue background). dMuziektheater Parking:Waterlooplein. Map Q5 Byzantium: Tesselschade-straat 19. Map C5 Europarking: Marnixstraat250. Map J5

    Schiphol AirportAmsterdams airport

    (official name AmsterdamAirport Schiphol) isefficient, modern andeasy to use, with anincredible range offacilities from golf togambling. There is asingle terminal, with onelevel for Arrivals andanother level forDepartures. Signs arecolour-coded: yellow fortransfer desks and gates,green for amenities. dFlight information: 09007244 7465 www.schiphol.nl

    From Schiphol byTrain

    The best and cheapestmethod of getting fromthe airport to the city isby rail access is byescalator from theshopping plaza where thetickets are on sale. Trainsrun direct to CentraalStation every 15 minutesfrom 6am to midnight,then every hour. Journeytime is 20 minutes.

    From Schiphol byBus

    Instead of the train, youcan take the smartConnexxion Airport-HotelShuttle (www.airporthotelshuttle.nl) from outsidethe main exit. It stops atover 50 hotels, leavingevery 30 minutesbetween 6.30am and8pm. You can also take a taxi, but its hardlyworth the expense,considering the ease ofpublic transport.

    Arriving by FerryFrom London, the

    boat-train service offeredby Stena Line via Harwichand the Hook of Hollandtakes about 8 hours, andyou will end your journeyat Centraal Station. Other-wise, P&O ferries crossfrom Hull to Rotterdamor Zeebrugge and Doverto Calais. d P&O: 08705202020 www.ponsf.com Stena Line: 08705 707070 www.stenaline.com

    Bus and CoachThe cheapest option,

    but also the most tiring.From Londons VictoriaCoach Station, NationalExpress coaches go viathe Channel Tunnel or theferry, taking between 9and 12 hours to reachAmstel Station. d NationalExpress: 08705 143 219 www.nationalexpress.com

    Car HireThe major car hire

    companies have bothairport and city-centreoffices. For the bestrates, try Dutch firmssuch as Diks or Kuperus.(See Driving p132.)d Diks: 020 662 3366 Kuperus: 020 668 3311 Budget: 020 612 6066

    Left LuggageBoth Schiphol Airport

    and Centraal Station havefacilities for left luggage.At Schiphol there is astaffed counter, openfrom 6.15am10.45pm,as well as lockers. AtCentraal Station thereare 24-hour lockers.

    Arriving in Amsterdam

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    Left Train at Centraal Station Right Arriving by road

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    Sources of InformationAmsterdam HotelService

    The friendly staff at thisindependent organizationwill make hotel reserv-ations (even last-minuteones), book excursionsand proffer helpfuladvice. d Damrak 7 MapP1 020 520 7000 www.amsterdamhotelservice.nl

    WebsitesThe Amsterdam

    Tourist Board has twoofficial websites: www.amsterdamtourist.nl (inDutch) and www.visitamsterdam.nl, which islinked to the NBTC web-site, www.holland.com.The City of Amsterdamhas its own website,www.amsterdam.nl. Allof these have useful, up-to-date information onaccommodation, events,exhibitions, shopping andtravel (you can also bookhotel rooms online). Tofind out whats on, visitwww.uitburo.nl Themajority of the citysmuseums and attractionshave their own websites.

    AccommodationTo book hotels before

    you travel, contact theAmsterdam ReservationCenter, a branch of theAmsterdam Tourist Board.d PO Box 3901, NL1001AS Amsterdam 0900 4004040 reservations@amsterdamtourist.nl

    PublicationsThe best listings

    magazine in Dutch is

    AmsterdamTourist Board

    Still universally known byits old name, VVV, theTourist Board has threeoffices in the city (seebelow). At these you willfind free maps, andleaflets on just abouteverything includingwalks, canal tours, sights,exhibitions, transport andaccommodation. Multi-lingual staff will giveadvice, change money,arrange excursions and for a fee book ticketsand hotels. Here you can also buy the popularAmsterdam Pass andMuseumkaart (see p136).d 0900 400 4040 www.visitamsterdam.nlwww.amsterdamtourist.nl

    Tourist Offices There are three VVV

    offices in Amsterdamitself: at Centraal Station(Platform 2), atStationsplein 10 (in frontof the station), and atLeidseplein 1 (on thecorner with Leidsestraat).There is another office atSchiphol Airport (HollandTourist InformationArrivals 2).

    NBTC (Nether-lands Board of

    Tourism andConventions)You can pick up theNBTCs own maps,information leaflets andbrochures at any of itsoffices throughout theworld. Visit your nearestbranch before you travel.d www.holland.com

    Uitkrant. Publishedmonthly, it is free andwidely available. TheTourist Board publishesDay by Day, a monthlylistings magazine inEnglish (on sale in news-agents and free in hotelsand restaurants). Amster-dam Weekly is in Englishand free (www.amsterdamweekly.nl)

    AUB TicketshopFor information on

    plays and concerts, or tomake reservations (for asmall fee), contactAmsterdam Uitburo. dLeidseplein 26 www.uitburo.nl Map C5 09000191

    NewspapersYou will find the best

    selection of foreign dailyand Sunday newspapersat Athenaeum Nieuws-centrum, Waterstonesand the American BookCenter. d AthenaeumNieuwscentrum: Spui 1416. Map M5 Waterstones:Kalverstraat 152. Map M5 American Book Center:Kalverstraat 185. Map M5

    LibrariesOnly residents can

    borrow, but anyone canvisit a public library. TheCentrale Bibliotheek ishandy, with a good rangeof foreign-language booksand newspapers as wellas a caf. d Prinsengracht587 Map K5 020 5230900 Open 19pm Mon,10am9pm TueThu,10am5pm FriSat;AprOct: 15pm Sun

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    art Left Amsterdam Tourist Board Right Reference books in an Amsterdam library

    For alternative listings, check out the excellentwww.underwateramsterdam.com

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    metro is to buy astrippenkaart (ticket stripavailable in multiples of15), a dagkaart (day ticket),or a sterabonnement(season ticket) all soldby the public transportauthority, the GVB(Gemeente VervoerBedrijf), tourist offices,post offices and somenewsagents. d GVB:Stationsplein 14 Map P1 0900 9292

    TaxisYou cannot hail taxis

    in the street, but findingone in the centre isusually easy, as there areplenty of taxi ranks: atCentraal Station, DamSquare, Elandsgracht,Leidseplein, Muziek-theater, Nieuwmarkt andRembrantsplein. There isalso a 24-hour phoneservice, Taxicentrale. dTaxicentrale: 020 677 7777

    DrivingThe city centre has a

    complex one-waysystem, its roads aredominated by trams andcyclists, and parking islimited and expensive.All of these are goodreasons to avoid driving.If you have to, park in acar park (see p133) or ona meter (most allow youup to two hours). If youoverstay your time, yourcar might be clamped ortowed away.

    Bicycle HireYou will never be

    very far from a bicyclehire shop in this city of

    TramsThe tram is Amster-

    dams most popularmode of transport. Tramsrun from 6am (6:30am onSaturday and Sunday) tillmidnight. Most start atCentraal Station. Forroutes, see the map onthe back cover of thisbook. You can buy ticketsin advance from the GVB(see below), or on boardthe tram itself from thedriver, the conductor or aticket machine.

    BusesLike trams, most

    buses start at CentraalStation. A few followsimilar routes, but busesalso go to areas notcovered by the tramnetwork; again, see themap on the back cover.Buses have the sameticketing system astrams. A limited nightbus service runs frommidnight to 4am.

    MetroServing more

    remote parts of the city,the metro has only fourlines, all terminating atCentraal Station. Thereare four other stations inthe central area: Amster-dam CS, Nieuwmarkt,Waterlooplein andWeesperplein. It is bestto avoid taking the metroat night, when thestations are haunts ofunsavoury characters.

    TicketsThe cheapest way to

    travel by tram, bus or

    cyclists: Bike City,Holland Rent-a-Bike and Take-a-Bike are allconveniently central. Biketheft is rife, so secureyour bike carefully whenyou park it. d Bike City:Bloemgracht 70. Map K2.020 626 3721 HollandRent-a-Bike Damrak 247 Map N2 020 622 3207 Macbike: Stationsplein 12.Map P1. 020 620 0905

    Canal BikesIf you are fit, these

    two- or four-personpedaloes provide a fun if laborious way ofgetting around. There arefour moorings in centralAmsterdam, where youcan collect or leave thebikes all year round. dCanal Bike: Weteringschans24 Map D5 020 6265574 www.canal.nl

    TrainsNederlandse Spoor-

    wegen, the Dutch nationalrail company, is renownedfor its clean, punctualtrains and reasonablefares. Contact the OVR(Openbaar VervoerReisinformatie) forinformation. d OVR: 09009292 www.ns.nl

    WalkingAmsterdam is a

    great city for walking(see pp645). The mainpedestrian hazards arebicycles, trams andcobbled streets, so keepclear of cycle lanes, takecare crossing tram tracks,and wear comfortable,flat shoes.

    Getting Around

    Streetsmart

    Left Bicyles secured in a bike rack Right Trams

    For a tram or bus journey within one zone, you must use twostrips of a strippenkaart per person. Two zones require three strips.

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    SightseeingMany operators startfrom Centraal Station.Amsterdam Canal Cruisesstart on Singelgracht, andKooij from Rokin, nearthe Munttoren. d Lovers:Prins Hendrikkade 26. MapP1. 020 530 1090. www.lovers.nl AmsterdamCanal Cruises: NicolaasWitsenkade 1a. Map D6.020 626 5636. www.amsterdamcanalcruises.nl Kooij: Rokin 125. Map N5.020 623 3810. www.rederijkooij.nl

    Museum BoatThe Museum Boat

    allows you to get on andoff at any of seven differ-ent points to visit themajor museums. The dayticket also entitles you todiscounted admission. Aboat comes by each stoponce every 30 minutesbetween 9:30am and4:45pm daily. d Stations-plein 8 Map P1 020 5301090 www.lovers.nl

    CanalbusAnother frequent

    hop-on, hop-off canalboat, with discountsincluded in the ticketprice. Choose one ofthree routes, with a totalof 13 stops. A one-day AllAmsterdam TransportPass entitles you tounlimited use of metro,bus, tram and Canalbus.d Weteringschans 24 Map D5 020 623 9886 www.canal.nl

    Water TaxiMore private cruisers

    than taxis. The cost is

    Amsterdam PassAvailable from hotels

    and Amsterdam TouristBoard offices (see p134),the Amsterdam passrepresents good value formoney, at 31, 41 and51 for one, two andthree days respectively. It entitles the holder tofree public transport, freeadmission to manymuseums, a free canaltour, and discounts at avariety of restaurants andother attractions.

    MuseumkaartMost of the top

    museums are covered bythe Amsterdam Pass (seeabove). If you want tovisit more, you need theMuseumkaart (MuseumCard), which buys a yearsadmission to over 400museums throughout theNetherlands. You will re-coup the cost after aboutthree visits. Available fromAmsterdam Tourist Boardoffices and all partici-pating museums.

    Cultureel JongerenPassport (CJP)

    The CJP gives under-26-year-olds discountedadmission to theatres,museums and otherattractions. It is availablefrom offices of theAmsterdam Tourist Boardand the AUB Uitburoticketshop (see p134).

    Canal ToursCruises can either be

    booked direct with theoperator or through theAmsterdam Tourist Board.

    around 135 an hour foran 8-seater. d Stationsplein8 Map P1 020 530 1090 www.lovers.nl

    Tourist TramThe Museumtram, an

    antique tram, operateson Easter Sunday,Whitsun and July toSeptember on Sundays,11am4pm, from the Vic-toria Hotel near CentraalStation (see p147). d0900 423 11 00 www.museumtram-amsterdam.nl

    Bicycle ToursYellow Bike offers

    two guided bicycle toursfor up to 12 people: athree-hour city tour and asix-hour countryside tour.You can book directthrough Yellow Bike, orthrough the AmsterdamTourist Board. d YellowBike: 020 620 6940

    Walking ToursThe Amsterdam

    Tourist Board offers arange of walking tours.Urban Home & GardenTours visit private andpublic canal houses. Mee in Mokum givefresh insights intohistoric Amsterdam.Archivisie concentrate onarchitecture. AmsterdamCity Walks focus more onhistory. d Urban Home &Garden Tours: 020 688 1243.www.uhgt.nl Mee inMokum: 020 625 1390.www.gildeamsterdam.nl Archivisie: 020 625 8908 Amsterdam City Walks: 061 825 7014. www.amsterdamcitywalks.com

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    Free SightsSpecial places that

    can be visited free ofcharge include: the CivicGuards Gallery of theAmsterdams HistorischMuseum (see p26);hofjes (see p92); theBegijnhof (see p22);Hollandse Manege (seep117); the RijksmuseumGarden (see p14); andBloemenmarkt (see p109).

    Free MusicThere is plenty of

    music in the air, from thecarillons of the Wester-toren, Zuidertoren andMunttoren, to barrelorgans, street performersand live bands in late-night bars. Free lunch-time concerts are held atthe Concertgebouw (Wed),Stopera (Tue in winter),English Reformed Church(summer) and Thomas-kerk (alternate Tuesdays).

    Free Film andTheatre

    There are free perform-ances at the Vondelparksopen-air theatre, and freescreenings in summer atthe Nederlands Film-museum (see p116).

    TicketsTo see whats on,

    consult Uitkrant, Day byDay and AmsterdamWeekly. The best placeto book tickets is AUB inLeidseplein (see p134).

    ParksAmsterdams parks

    offer endless free enter-tainment, from theatre

    Hostels andCamping

    There are several popularyouth hostels (see box).Vondelpark is especiallyrecommended, withprivate rooms as well asdormitories. Vliegenbosis a designated youthcampsite. The Amster-damse Bos campsite alsohas wooden cabins forhire, and, like Gaasper, issuited to families. (Seealso Budget Hotels, p149.)

    Discount CardsUnder-26-year-olds

    can apply for a CJP forbargains on some per-forming arts tickets (seep136). The AmsterdamPass represents goodvalue for money. TheMuseumkaart allows freeadmission to more than400 museums in theNetherlands (see p136).

    Public TransportA strippenkaart (see

    p135) is better value thansingle tram tickets. TheAmsterdam Pass (seep136) includes free publictransport. The All Amster-dam Transport Pass buysyou a days unlimited useof the transport system.

    MarketsThe outdoor markets

    of Albert Cuypmarkt,Waterlooplein andNoordermarkt, and theindoor bargain basementRommelmarkt, are allplaces where you canfind food, clothing andbric-a-brac for next tonothing (see p62).

    and concerts in theVondelpark to theminiature train inAmstelpark, or justfeeding the goats inAmsterdamse Bos.

    Cheap EatsYou can keep hunger

    at bay without entering arestaurant in Amsterdam,with its many food stallsselling raw herring,smoked fish, chips withmayonnaise, belegdebroodjes (filled breadrolls), waffles, pancakesand delicious, sugarypoffertjes and there areplenty of cheap cafs.

    Amsterdam on a Budget

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    Left Street stall selling herring Right Street performer

    Hostels andCampsites

    Hans BrinkerKerkstraat 136 020622 0687

    The BulldogOude Zijds Voorburgwal218220 020 620 3822

    Flying Pig PalaceVossiusstraat 4 020400 4187

    Stayokay VondelparkZandpad 5 020 5898996

    Amsterdamse BosCampingKleine Noorddijk 1,Amstelveen 020 6416868

    Gaasper Camping Loosdrechtdreef 7 020 696 7326

    Vliegenbos CampingMeeuwenlaan 138 020 636 8855

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    Shopping TipsSalesJanuary and July are

    the traditional months forend-of-season sales,when you are likely tofind some great bargains.Some shops have analmost permanent salerail. Korting meansreductions are beingoffered. The Dutch forsale is uitverkoop.

    What to Buy Amsterdam shopping

    is very cosmopolitan. Itspans designer fashionand off-beat second-handclothes, valuableantiques and colourfulIndonesian beads. For aflavour of the city, youmight be tempted byDutch chocolate, cheese,paling (raw herring), beeror jenever or, for some-thing less ephemeral,Delftware or diamonds.

    DepartmentStores and Malls

    Compared to its specialityshops, Amsterdamsdepartment stores seemrun-of-the-mill. On thecorner of Dam Squareand Damrak, De Bijenkorfis the most famous. Moreexclusive, however, areMaison de Bonneterieand Metz & Co. The citysfirst mall, Magna Plaza,has several floors ofboutiques and cafs in aconverted post office.

    Speciality ShopsIt is these quirky little

    shops devoted to specificitems from candles totoothbrushes that make

    AreasEach shopping area

    has its own specialcharacter. De NegenStraatjes, the Jordaan andHaarlemmerbuurt havebric-a-brac and specialityshops. The Spiegelkwartierand Rokin are the placesfor art and antiques. Mostchain stores are inKalverstraat andNieuwendijk. Leidsestraatand Utrechtsestraat havemore upmarket boutiques,and PC Hooftstraat is thehome of designer fashion.

    HoursShops are generally

    open from 9am6pm Tue,Wed and Fri, from 9am9pm on Thu, from 9am5pm on Sat, and from16pm on Mon (althoughmost department storesopen at 11am). Manyshops also open fromnoon to 6pm on Sun. Bycity law, shopkeeperscan trade between 7amand 10pm daily.

    Tax-free ShoppingMost marked prices

    include 19 per cent VAT.Global Refund entitlesnon-EU residents to apercentage back over aminimum figure of 137(more you spend, thehigher the percentage),bought at one shop on thesame day and exportedwithin 90 days. If the shophas Tax-free status, collecta Global Refund Cheque,have it stamped byCustoms on your depart-ure, and claim your refundwhen you leave the EU.

    shopping in Amsterdamsuch a joy. Although theycrop up throughout thecity, they are thickest onthe ground in De NegenStraatjes (see p104).

    Art and AntiquesThe Spiegelkwartier

    is the heart of the art andantiques trade. Here, ahost of dealers specializein a variety of objectsfrom Delftware and glassto icons and tribal art(see p112).

    DiamondsThe five members of

    the Amsterdam DiamondFoundation guaranteequality. d AmsterdamDiamond Center: Rokin 1.Map N3. 020 624 5787 Coster Diamonds: PaulusPotterstraat 26. Map C5.020 305 5555 GassanDiamonds: Nieuwe Uilen-burgerstraat 1735. MapQ4. 020 622 5333 StoeltieDiamonds: Wagenstraat1317. Map P6. 020 6237601 Van MoppesDiamonds: Albert Cuyp-straat 26. Map D6. 020676 1242

    Bulbs and Flowers The Dutch love

    flowers. For the bestselection of cut flowersand bulbs, go to theBloemenmarkt (seep113). Depending on theharshness of the winter,bulbs are usually avail-able between June andlate December, but checkyour own countrysimport regulations beforeexporting (see p132).

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    art Left Cheese on a stall in the Albert Cuypmarkt Right Tulips at Amsterdams Bloemenmarkt

    For shops, markets and souvenirs See pp623

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    staircases and no lift. The accommodationbooklet of the Amster-dam Tourist Officeindicates hotels withdisabled facilities, but besure that they meet yourneeds before you make areservation.

    Public TransportOld-style trams with

    high steps are inaccess-ible to wheelchair users.New trams are moreaccessible, with centraldoors at pavement level.The metro is wheelchair-friendly, with lifts at everystation. For the visuallyimpaired, there is aconductor who announcesevery stop. Avoid publictransport at rush hour.

    TaxisA folded wheelchair

    will fit into most taxis, butAmsterdam has a privateservice, Boonstra,specially designed forwheelchair users. It coststhe same as a regular cab,but you need to book atleast 24 hours in advance.d Prins Bernhardkade 1,Halfweg 020 613 4134 9am6pm Mon to Sat

    MuseumsMost of the citys

    principal museums haveadequate facilities fordisabled people, includ-ing wide entrances,ramps, lifts and adaptedtoilets, although canal-house museums like theAmstelkring, Van Loonand Willet-Holthuysenhave no upper-floor

    OrganizationsAmsterdams narrow,

    cobbled streets, unevenpavements, and oldbuildings with smallentrances and steepstairs, make it a difficultcity for disabled peopleto get around. Forgeneral information andadvice, contactAccesswise or SGOA(Stichting GehandicaptenOverleg Amsterdam). d Accesswise: Postbus532, 6800 AM Arnhem. 026 370 6161. www.accesswise.org SGOA:Quellijnstraat 89, 1072 ZA.Map D6. 57 77 955.www.sgoa.nl

    LeafletsUseful leaflets on

    hotels, restaurants,museums and attract-ions, guided tours andexcursions for peoplewith disabilities areavailable from theAmsterdam TouristOffice and the AUB(Amsterdam Uitburo)(see p134). You can alsopick up an excellentbooklet called Rail Travelfor the Disabled fromCentraal Station.

    AccommodationFor such a progress-

    ive city, Amsterdamshotels are remarkablycavalier about the needsof disabled people; veryfew have specialfacilities. Some modernhotels have adaptedrooms, but old buildingsand converted canalhouses often have steep

    wheelchair access. Staffare usually very helpful,but its always a goodidea to telephone beforeyou visit.

    RestaurantsIts possible to get a

    wheelchair into mostground-floor restaurants,but only a handful havedisabled toilet facilities.Again, phone ahead.

    Wheelchair HireYou can rent a

    wheelchair from Beumerde Jong for 20 perweek, but you have toarrange for your hotel tocollect it. Book well inadvance, particularly inthe holiday season. dHaarlemmermeerstraat4951 020 615 7188

    Guided ToursTours and Travel

    Services offer bus toursaround Amsterdam andday-trips throughoutHolland using busessuitable for wheelchairs.In conjunction with theDutch Red Cross, theyalso run a speciallyadapted tram around thecity. d Draaierweg 24,1032 KS Amsterdam 020635 31 10 www.tandts.nl

    Impaired SightAudio tours of

    museums and othertourist attractions areincreasingly available. TheFNB has magazines etc.for the partially sighted. d 0486 486 486 FNB:www.fnb.nl publictransport: 0900 9292

    Amsterdam for the Disabled

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    Left Boonstra taxi service Right Disabled access sign

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    Things to Avoidtowns and cities aremuch cleaner). A fewyears ago the problemwas dire; its much betternow, but you still need tolook where you walk.

    LosingPossessions

    If you lose property atSchiphol Airport, call 020601 2349. For items lefton a train, call 030 2353923, 9am5pm MonFri.For trams, buses or themetro, call 020 460 5858,9am4:30pm MonFri.

    Infringing DrugLaws

    Amsterdams enlightenedattitude to soft drugsshould not be miscon-strued. Coffee shopsare the only placeswhere buying and usingsmall quantities of softdrugs is tolerated. Else-where in the street, orin other bars and cafs smoking is frowned on.

    Causing OffenceAs the expression

    going Dutch indicates,Amsterdammers willusually share the bill in arestaurant. If you dine at someones home,bring a small gift such as flowers or chocolatesfor the host. Try not toannoy cyclists by walkingin cycle lanes. Thoughmost Amsterdammersspeak excellent English,a few words in Dutch willgo down well (seepp1589). In the RedLight District, dont causeoffence by taking

    Street CrimeBeware pickpockets

    in crowded places likeCentraal Station, the RedLight District, Damrakand Leidseplein. Neverkeep money in your backpocket, or leave yourhandbag exposed. Atnight, avoid the junkie-riddled fringes of the RedLight District, especiallyaround sleazy Zeedijk, aswell as the area aroundNieuwendijk betweenDamrak and Spuistraat.

    Bicycle TheftBicycle theft is rife in

    Amsterdam. Some arestolen for profit, otherson the principle thatsomeone stole mine, soIll steal someone elses.Always secure both frontwheel and frame to animmovable object with aU-shaped lock.

    Medical ProblemsEU nationals are

    entitled to receive dentaland medical treatment inthe Netherlands at areduced charge. To coverthis, British visitorsshould bring a form E111,available from postoffices. It is also sensibleto take out private travelinsurance before youleave, to cover medicalemergencies andrepatriation (see p142).

    Dog MessIts a strange paradox

    that the famously house-proud Dutch should putup with fouled streets intheir capital city (other

    photographs of theprostitutes in theirwindows.

    MosquitoesSummertime heralds

    the arrival of these irritat-ing insects, attracted tothe canal waters. Armyourself with the repel-lent and bite creams ofyour choice.

    Getting CaughtShort

    Though there are (albeitvery public) mensconveniences on somestreets, women are verypoorly provided for.Instead, it is acceptablepractice to head for thenearest bar or caf. Youmight buy a drink inreturn, but usually youare not obliged to. Publictoilets in stations andmuseums are staffed byattendants who insist ona tip in a saucer.

    Tourist HordesAmsterdam is busy

    all year round, butespecially from April toSeptember, when youshould book up youraccommodation wellbefore you plan to visit.Canal cruises and othertours should be bookedon arrival. Places like theRijksmuseum and AnneFrankhuis attract longqueues. Arrive early inthe day, or late, if visitingthe Anne Frankhuis, andin the case of theRijksmuseum, use theback (Hobbemastraat)entrance if necessary.

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    art Left Pedestrian-free cycle lane Right Queue at Rijksmuseum

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    Changing MoneyYou can change

    money in banks, bureauxde change, post officesand American Expressoffices. To avoid highcommission charges,stay clear of independentbureaux de change (likethose on Leidsestraat)and choose the officialGWK bureaux de changeor the post office Post-bank. Avoid changingmoney in hotels.

    Post OfficesAmsterdams post

    offices are recognizableby their TPG logo. Apartfrom the usual services,they also changecurrency and travellerscheques. The main postoffice on Singel has aposte restante service,parcel service, photo-copiers and a philatelycounter. d Singel 250 Map M3 020 330 0555 open 9am6pm MonWed& Fri, 9am8pm Thu, 10am1:30pm Sat

    Internet CafsYou can pick up and

    send emails, or just surf,at any time of the day ornight at EasyEverything the Reguliersbreestraatbranch has 250 terminals.There are several otherinternet cafs in town,and some hotels andbars also have terminals.d EasyEverything:Reguliersbreestraat22/Damrak 33/Leidsestraat24. Map N6/Map P2/MapL6. Open 9am10pm daily Internet City: Nieuwendijk

    CurrencyIn January 2002, the

    Dutch guilder becameobsolete and the eurobecame the officialcurrency of the Nether-lands. Euro banknoteshave seven denomin-ations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100,200 and 500. There arealso eight coin denomin-ations: 1 and 2 euros,and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50cents. Check exchangerates before you travel.

    Credit CardsMajor cards including

    Amex are widely acceptedthroughout Amsterdam,and you should have nodifficulty paying for mostthings with plastic butits always wise to check.Some restaurants do notaccept credit cards, andit is common practice topay small amounts incash, so you should keepsome on you.

    Cash DispensersAmsterdam has no

    shortage of cashdispensers, many ofwhich will function inseveral languages.

    TravellersCheques

    Travellers cheques are asafe way of carryingmoney abroad, and canbe exchanged for cash inbanks and used to payhotel bills, as well asbeing widely accepted inretail outlets. Choose awell-known companysuch as AmericanExpress or Thomas Cook.

    79. Map N1. Open10ammidnight daily. Freeworld: Nieuwendijk 30.Map N1. Open 9:30am1amSunThu, to 3am Fri & Sat.

    TelephonesMost public tele-

    phones (which are green,with the KPN Telecomlogo) require a phonecard which you can buy atpost offices, super-markets, newsagentsand stations or creditcard. The internationaldialling code for TheNetherlands is 00 31. Thecode for Amsterdam is020 you can drop this ifyou are dialling a localnumber.

    TelevisionAsk a Dutch child

    where he or she learnedto speak such good,idiomatic English, andthe answer is likely to befrom the television.British and Americanimports on Dutchchannels are subtitledrather than dubbed, andcable TV brings about 30stations from aroundEurope, plus AmericasCNN. Most hotels areequipped with cable TV.

    RadioFor classical music,

    tune in to Dutch Radio 4(94.3 MHz); for popmusic to Radio 3 (96.8MHz). There are alsoseveral independentmusic stations, mostlyaimed at the young.News is broadcast onRadio 1 (98.9 MHz).

    Banking and Communications

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    Left EasyEverything internet caf Right Post Office

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    Security and HealthVictim SupportGet help from the

    Amsterdam TouristAssistance Service(ATAS), which offerssupport and practicaladvice. De Eerste Lijnhelps victims of rape andsexual assault. d Amster-dam Tourist AssistanceService: NieuwezijdsVoorburgwal 1048. 020625 3246 De Eerste Lijn.020 613 0245

    HospitalsOf the central

    hospitals, only Onze LieveVrouwe Gasthuis, has anaccident and emergencydepartment.d Onze LieveVrouwe Gasthuis Oosterpark 9. emergency:s-Gravesandeplein 16. MapG6 020 599 9111

    PharmaciesFor non-prescription

    drugs or toiletries, go toa chemist (drogist). Tohave a prescription madeup, go to a pharmacy(apotheek). Normal open-ing times are 8:30am5:30pm MonFri. A noticewill direct you to thenearest pharmacy openoutside of these hours.

    Doctors andDentists

    Your hotel, local pharmacyor tourist office will giveyou the name and addressof an English-speakingdoctor or dentist, as willthe Central MedicalService (CentraleDoktersdienst). EUcitizens are entitled toreductions on medical and

    EmergencyDial 112 if you need

    police, ambulance or firebrigade. English-speakingoperators man the 24-hour switchboard, andyou can phone free froma call box.

    Personal SafetyDont carry your

    passport, ticket and othervaluables around withyou. At night, stick towell-lit streets, avoidingdodgy areas like De Pijp,Nieuwendijk and theseediest part of the RedLight District aroundZeedijk.

    TheftMake sure that your

    possessions are insuredbefore you travel. Shouldyou have anything stolen,report it immediately tothe nearest police stationand ask for a copy of thepolice report for yourinsurers. If your passportis stolen, you must alsocontact your consulate(see below).

    PoliceThe Amsterdam police

    have a reputation forbeing friendly and helpful.Their headquarters, theHoofdbureau van Politie, is in Elandsgracht. Thereare main police stations in Prinsengracht,Beursstraat andLijnbaansgracht.d Prinsengracht 1109. MapE5 Beursstraat 33. MapP2 Lijnbaansgracht 219.Map C5 0900 8844(central no.)

    dental treatment (seep140). d Central MedicalService: 020 592 3434

    Embassies andConsulates

    If you lose your passportor get into trouble withthe authorities, you willneed to contact yourembassy or consulate.Most embassies are inThe Hague, but somecountries, including theUK and the USA, haveconsular facilities inAmsterdam. d UKConsulate: Koningslaan44. 020 676 4343.www.britain.nl USConsulate: Museumplein19. 020 575 5309.www.usemb.nl

    Sexual HealthThe Dutch take

    sexual health seriously:prostitutes are subjectedto rigorous checks.Should you contract asexually transmitteddisease, the GG&GDprovides a MonFri walk-in clinic: phone for detailsor an appointment. AnHIV checkpoint is run bythe Servicepunt HIVVereniging every Fridayevening. The SchorerStichting providesinformation for gays. AnAIDS helpline operates210pm MonFri. dGG&GD: Groenburgwal 44.Map P5. 020 555 5822 Servicepunt HIV Vereniging:Eerste Helmersstraat 17.Map C5. 020 689 2577 SAD Schorer Stichting: 020662 4206 AIDS-STDHelpline: 0900 204 2040

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    card in Amsterdam is no guarantee ofdiscounted prices, andonly Dutch students areentitled to the OVJaarkaart, which givesthem free use of publictransport. Anyone underthe age of 26 is eligiblefor a Cultureel JongerenPassport (see p136),which costs 12.50 fromTourist Offices or theAUB (see p134).

    UnionsForeign students will

    find ASVA-OBAS themost useful of thevarious Dutch studentunions. It offers all kindsof assistance, includingan accommodationservice. SRVU will alsogive VU students helpand advice (see above). d ASVA-OBAS: Binnengast-huisstraat 9 Map N5 020623 8052

    Services forForeign Students

    An independent organiz-ation, the FSS (ForeignStudent Service) providesadvice, support and helpfor foreign students, aswell as arranging socialevents. Under theauspices of the UvA, theInternational StudentNetwork (ISN) is a groupof students that providesmentors to introduceforeigners and freshmento university life. d FSS: Oranje Nassanlaan5. 671 59 15. Map A6 ISN: 020 525 3721.isn@stuc.uva.nl. www.isn-amsterdam.nl

    UvA CoursesThe largest university

    with buildings in thecentre, UvA (Universiteitvan Amsterdam) offersEnglish-languageInternational StudyPrograms in a range ofsubjects from under-graduate level upwards.For information, contactthe Office of ForeignRelations. d Office ofForeign Relations: Binnen-gasthuisstraat 9 Map N5 020 525 8080 www.uva.nl

    VU CoursesIn a suburb of

    Amsterdam, VU (VrijeUniversiteit) runs English-language courses ineconomics, law, arts andsocial sciences forexchange or contractstudents (whose homeuniversity has no officialexchange relationshipwith the VU). d VUStudent Information: 020444 5000 www.vu.nl

    AccommodationUvAs Housing

    Department helpsstudents find lodgings. If you are studying at VU,the university has aguesthouse in Uilenstede.Alternatively, SRVU, theVU students union, willhelp you. d UvA HousingDepartment: Binnengast-huisstraat 9. Map N5. 020525 2744 SRVU: DeBoelelaan 1083A. 020 4449424

    Student Cards Producing your

    student union or ISIC rail-

    SummerUniversity

    Every year, from themiddle of July to thebeginning of September,the Amsterdam SummerUniversity offers arts andsciences courses in theFelix Meritis Building. dKeizersgracht 324 Map L4 020 620 0225 or 623 1311 www.amsu.edu

    BookshopsMost major book-

    shops stock Englishtextbooks, but the bestacademic bookshop is VUBoekhandel. d VU Boek-handel: De Boelelaan 1105 020 644 4355

    LibrariesTo borrow from the

    UvA Main Library, youneed a UniversiteitBibliotheek card. Foreignstudents are eligible ifthey are studying in thecity for at least threemonths. To borrow fromthe VU Main Library, youmust become a member.d UvA Main Library: Singel425. Map M5. 020 5252266 VU Main Library: De Boelelaan 1105. 020 444 5200

    VisasAll foreign students

    who plan to stay in thecountry for longer thanthree months mustregister with the Vreem-delingen Politie (AliensPolice) within three daysof arrival. They must thenapply for a VTV (residencepermit) and register withthe civil registry.

    Amsterdam for Students

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    Left Inside the UvA Main Library Right VU Boekhandel

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    Luxury HotelsPulitzerCombining 21st-

    century chic with beamsand bare bricks, thePulitzer is an innovativeconversion of 24 canalhouses, celebrated for itsart exhibitions, courtyardgarden and outstandingcellar. d Prinsengracht31531, 1016 GZ Map K3 020 523 5235 www.pulitzer.nl

    NH Grand HotelKrasnapolsky

    This monumental hotel,with 468 rooms and 36apartments, has come along way from its begin-nings as a humble coffeeshop (see p35). The facil-ities are phenomenal. Ofthe four restaurants, theoriginal cast-iron andglass Winter Garden isthe most stunning. dDam 9, 1012 JS Map N3 020 554 9111 www.nh-hotels.com Dis.access

    De lEuropeOnce through the

    door, you leave the hurly-burly of the Nieuwe Zijdebehind and enter a calmoasis redolent of the19th century. Spaciousrooms with empirefurnishings are theepitome of plush. dNieuwe Doelenstraat 28,1012 CP Map N5 020531 1777 www.leurope.nl Dis.access

    NH BarbizonPalace

    Behind a dull faade, arow of 17th-century

    Amstel Inter-Continental

    Rub shoulders with mon-archs and movie stars inAmsterdams grandesthotel, which just oozesopulence, from thespectacular hall to thepampering bedrooms.Enjoy the state-of-the-artgym, private motorlaunch and two Michelin-starred restaurant butdont even think aboutthe bill. d ProfessorTulpplein 1, 1018 GX MapF5 020 622 6060 www.intercontinental.com Dis.access

    BlakesBritish designer

    Anouska Hempel hastaken a Catholic alms-house and turned it intoa glamorous hotel withan excellent restaurant(see p103). Influenced byAsia, the theme is mono-chrome, with gorgeousfabrics and furnishings. dKeizersgracht 384, 1016 GB Map L4 020 530 2010 www.blakesamsterdam.com

    Grand Amsterdam(Sofitel Demeure)

    A sense of history per-vades this hotel on thefringes of the Red LightDistrict: the 17th-centurybuilding was designed forthe Admiralty. It offersfive-star comfort and ishome to Caf Roux (seep60). d OudezijdsVoorburgwal 197, 1012 EX Map N4 020 555 3111 www.thegrand.nl Dis.access

    houses 19 in all havebeen knocked together tocreate a luxurious hotel.d Prins Hendrikkade 5972,1012 AD Map P1 020556 4564 www.nh-hotels.com Dis.access

    Crowne PlazaAmsterdam

    AmericanThis landmark hotel in asplendid Art Nouveaubuilding is for those whowant to be close to theaction (see p101). dLeidsekade 97, 1017 PN Map C5 020 556 3000 www.amsterdam-american.crowneplaza.com

    Bilderberg JanLuyken

    A step from the mainmuseums and elegantshopping, this four-starboutique hotel comprisesthree stylish 19th-centurytownhouses. Treatsinclude free afternoon teaand a charming terrace. dJan Luykenstraat 58, 1071CS Map C5 020 5730730 www.janluyken.nl

    Bilderberg GardenFor luxury away from

    the crowds, this modernhotel in a leafy streetmight fit the bill. With 124rooms and suites, all withrelaxing Jacuzzi baths, itssmaller than many of thecitys five-stars, with afriendly atmosphere andan excellent restaurant,De Kersentuin. dDijsselhofplantsoen 7, 1077BJ 020 570 5600 www.gardenhotel.nl

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    Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards andhave en-suite bathrooms.

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    De FilosoofThis unique hotels

    love affair with philosophygoes beyond its name:philosophers stay andmeet here regularly. dAnna van den Vondelstraat6, 1054 GZ Map B5 020683 3013 www.hotelfilosoof.nl

    AmsterdamWiechmann

    Made from three well-kept canal houses, theWiechmann has beenpolishing its welcome for more than 50 years.Wooden floors, beamsand panelling set offantique furniture andOriental rugs, and thebedrooms, most withcanal views, areattractively simple.d Prinsengracht 32832,1016 HX Map K4 020626 3321 www.hotelwiechmann.nl

    PrinsenhofThis small, quiet B&B

    in an attractive canalhouse is squeaky clean,friendly and modestlypriced. Small wonder,then that its 10 prettybedrooms (some withshared facilities) are hardto come by. d Prinsen-gracht 810, 1017 JL MapE5 020 623 1772 www.hotelprinsenhof.com

    Seven One Seven This is a luxuriously

    laid-back hotel in a five-star neighbourhood,where beautiful antiquescomplement the evenmore beautiful guests. To

    Canal HouseThe Golden Age lives

    on in this tranquil pair of17th-century canalhouses, filled from top tobottom with antiques.Breakfast beneath achandelier in the ornatesalon with a view of thegarden. The bedroomsare individually decorated(and priced). d Keizers-gracht 148, 1015 CX MapL2 020 622 5182 www.canalhouse.nl

    Ambassade Overlooking the

    Herengracht, theAmbassade is trulycomfortable and, notsurprisingly, often full.Rambling through tenhandsome merchantshouses, it blends goodantiques with excellentmodern service. Popularwith writers, the newlibrary showcases signedcopies of their work. dHerengracht 341, 1016 AZ Map L4 020 555 0222 www.ambassade-hotel.nl

    Seven BridgesA tired bridge-spotter

    can count seven fromthis charming hotelwithout moving. Immac-ulately decorated, it haswooden floors, Persiancarpets and furniture thatwould grace any auction-house catalogue. Thereare no public rooms, soyou can have breakfast inbed without a twinge ofguilt. d Reguliersgracht 31,1017 LK Map E5 020623 1329

    simplify your bill, break-fast, tea and eveningdrinks are included in thecost of the accom-modation. d Prinsengracht717, 1017 JW Map E5 020 427 0717 www.717hotel.nl

    ToroThere is a decidedly

    English air about thiselegant, plant-filled villasouth of the Vondelpark.The public rooms arefurnished with antiquesand oil paintings, and youcan take tea in thedelightful garden. dKoningslaan 64, 1075 AG Map A6 020 673 7223 info@ams.nl www.ams.nl

    Toren Recently renovated,

    this graceful but comfort-able 17th-century canalhouse has all the moderntechnology you couldwish for, and at modestprices. d Keizersgracht164, 1015 CZ Map L2 020 622 6352 www.toren.nl

    AgoraOverlooking the

    Singel and convenientlyclose to the huge floatingflower market, this small,intimate hotel also has apeaceful garden. Woodenbeams, good furniture,new bathrooms andreasonable rates makethis place hard to resist.d Singel 462, 1017 AW Map M5 020 627 2200 www.hotelagora.nl

    Hotels with Character

    Streetsmart

    Canal House salon

    under 90 90140

    140200 200250

    over 250

    Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

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    Family HotelsAmsterdamHouse

    Treat the children to lifeaboard a houseboat.Amsterdam House haseight of them availablefor short or long rentals(from 175), as well asapartments and hotelrooms. d s-GravelandseVeer 34, 1011 KM MapN5 020 626 2577 www.amsterdamhouse.com

    EstheraIn the same family

    for three generations,this elegant hotel mixesmodern facilities withtraditional surroundingsand a warm atmosphere.Baby baths and highchairs are available, andbabysitting. A new wingwith 20 rooms should beready in 2005.d Singel 303, 1012 WJ Map M4 020 624 5146 www.estherea.nl

    t JagershuisThis small waterfront

    inn is a good option forfamilies who prefer tostay outside the citycentre. Just 10 km (6miles) from the city bybus or bicycle, its in acharming village (seep128) and there are familyrooms. d Amstelzijde 2-4,1184 VA Ouderkerk aan deAmstel 020 496 2020 www.jagershuis.com Dis.access

    Wihelmina Recently renovated,

    this is an excellent two-star hotel in the MuseumQuarter, with three- and

    OwlAlthough there are

    no particular facilities forchildren (beyond triplerooms and cots forbabies), this family-runhotel in the MuseumQuarter is noted for itsfriendliness. A stuffedowl in an alcove providesthe name. The hotel hasa neat little garden, andfresh flowers in the fairlyplain rooms. d RoemerVisscherstraat 1, 1054 EV Map C5 020 618 9484 www.owl-hotel.nl

    AdolesceCheerful, friendly and

    simple, this canal housein Plantage has awelcoming attitude tochildren, with familyrooms. Breakfast is nolonger served (there areplaces nearby) but hotand cold drinks, fruit andcookies are on offerduring the day. d NieuweKiezersgracht 26, 1018 DS Map R6 020 626 3959 Closed end OctEaster www.adolesce.nl

    SingelAnimal-loving child-

    ren will enjoy stayingopposite the Poezenboot(see p10). The family-runhotel has an excellentlocation on a prettystretch of the Singel, andsmall but characterfulbedrooms. Under-seven-year olds stay for free,and babysitting can bearranged. d Singel 13,1012 VC Map N1 020626 3108 www.lempereur-hotels.nl

    four-bedded rooms. Theyellow breakfast room isparticularly jolly. dKoninginneweg 169, 1075CN 020 662 5467 www.hotelwilhelmina.com

    RembrandtThis immaculate,

    good-value hotel has awonderful antique break-fast room and spaciouscontemporary bedroomsthat can accommodateup to six people. dPlantage Middenlaan 17,1018 DA Map F4 020627 2714 www.hotelrembrandt.nl

    NH SchillerTeenagers might put

    up with parents in thisfamous Art Deco hoteloverlooking the neonglare of Rembrandtplein,once the meeting-placeof artists and poets. Thereare family rooms, and thekids can escape to thebuzzing Schiller Caf. dRembrandtplein 26, 1017CV Map N6 020 5540700 www.nh-hotels.com Dis. access

    Albus GrandParents may prefer

    old-world character, butchildren usually like theirhotels to look spankingnew, like this recentlyopened three-star hotel inthe Canal Ring. Somerooms sleep three or four,and there is a brasseriefor breakfast and snacks.d Vijzelstraat 49, 1017 HE Map N6 020 530 6200 www.albusgrandhotel.nl Dis. access

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    art Left Rembrandt Right Schiller

    Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards andhave en-suite bathrooms.

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    RenaissanceAmsterdam

    A wide range offacilities at surprisinglyreasonable ratesdistinguish this centralhotel. The business and conference centreoccupies a formerLutheran church. Thehotel has a healthcentre, brown caf,boat dock, car parkingand apartments, inaddition to the usualbedrooms and suites.d Kattengat 1, 1012 SZ Map N1 020 621 2223 www.renaissancehotels.com/amsrd Dis.access

    Crowne PlazaAmsterdam City

    Centre A straightforward city-centre business hotelwith good businessfacilities and a leisurecentre, and the bonus ofDorrius, a late 19th-century Dutch restaurant(see p58). d NieuwezijdsVoorburgwal 5, 1012 RC Map N1 020 620 0500 www.amsterdam-citycentre.crowneplaza.com Dis. access

    OkuraHandy for the RAI

    Congresgebouw, theOkura offers top-of-the-range luxury and facilitiesto business travellers. Ithas four restaurants,including the Ciel Bleuperched on its 23rd floor.d Ferdinand Bolstraat 333 020 678 7111 www.okura.nl Dis. access

    SwisstelAmsterdam

    The noise and bustle ofDamrak is alleviated by a touch more style andintimacy than in mostother business hotels inthe area. Bedrooms arestylishly modern andwell-insulated, and thereis a fitness centre. dDamrak 96, 1012 LP MapN3 020 522 3000 www.swissotel.com Dis. access

    Radisson SASSituated around a

    dramatic atrium, thiswell-run hotel takes upmost of the street andcomprises several oldhouses, a paper factoryand an 18th-centuryvicarage, part of whichhas become a lovelycandlelit bar. The hotelshealth and conferencecentres are across theroad, connected by atunnel. d Rusland 17, 1012CK Map N4 020 6231231 www.radissonsas.com Dis. access

    Victoria HotelAmsterdam

    On the corner of Damrakand opposite CentraalStation, this monumentalbuilding has a surprising-ly calm and graciousinterior. The hotel has aBusiness Centre,extensive conferencefacilities and a health and fitness centre. dDamrak 1-5, 1012 LG Map P1 020 623 4255 www.parkplaza.com Dis.access

    Dikker & ThijsFenice

    With interior decorationin pinks, greys and blacksto reflect its Art Decoexterior, this long-established hotel nearLeidseplein has moreindividuality than most. dPrinsengracht 444, 1017 KE Map L6 020 620 1212 www.dtfh.nl

    Ramada CityCentre South

    With a vibrant colourscheme in red andorange, the Ramada hasplenty of panache, plus0the bonus of a garden,a roof terrace, and partic-ularly accommodatingstaff. d Jacob Obrecht-straat 33, 1071 KG MapC6 020 664 5182 www.ramadainternational.nl

    Residence Le CoinIn the University

    District, this smart newcomplex of studiobedrooms, each withkitchenette, is patronizedmainly by visitingacademics. d NieuweDoelenstraat 5, 1012 CP Map N5 020 524 6800 www.lecoin.nl

    AMS AtlasFriendly and efficient,

    with business-like rooms though no particularbusiness facilities theAtlas is in an interestingArt Nouveau house nearVondelpark. Currentlybeing renovated. d VanEeghenstraat 64, 1071 GK Map C6 020 676 6336 www.ams.nl

    Business Hotels

    Streetsmart

    Swisstel Amsterdam

    under 90 90140

    140200 200250

    over 250

    Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

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    Gay HotelsGreenwich VillageIn the same gay

    enclave of Kerkstraat, the Greenwich Villageprovides simple, friendlyaccommodation at a veryreasonable price. Thereare 11 clean but plainbedrooms. d Kerkstraat25, 1017 GA Map L6 020 626 9746 www.greenwichvillage.nl

    Golden BearFirst opened in 1948,

    the Golden Bear hasbeen a popular exclus-ively gay hotel ever since.With a pretty faade and11 clean, neat rooms,some with sharedfacilities, its situated inKerkstraat a street inthe Canal Ring wherethere are several othergay venues. d Kerkstraat37, 1017 GB Map L6 020 624 4785 www.goldenbear.nl

    WaterfrontBedrooms are a cut

    above at this smart, gay-friendly hotel within easyreach of the artistictreasures of the MuseumQuarter and the historiccentre. The distinctivereception room has ablack-and-white floor andantique furniture. d Singel458, 1017 AW Map M5 020 421 6621 www.waterfront.demon.nl

    SanderA gay-friendly hotel

    situated behind theConcertgebouw in theMuseum Quarter. Thoughplain, most of the 20

    Quentin EngelandA row of seven

    unusual houses in thishotel-packed streetrepresent the architect-ural styles of sevendifferent nations. TheEngeland, a cosy, gay-friendly establishment,occupies the Englishcottage amongst them,plus the Netherlandshouse next door. dRoemer Visscherstraat 30,1054 EZ Map C5 020 6892323 www.quentinhotels.com Dis. access

    QuentinA prime example of

    an Amsterdam hotel that,although not exclusivelygay, extends a warmwelcome to its many gayguests. Women inparticular make thisfriendly, well-kept littlehotel near Leidsepleintheir base, as do visitingmusicians Paradiso andMelkweg are nearby (seep545). d Leidsekade 89,1017 PN Map J6 020626 2187 www.quentinhotels.com

    AmistadExclusively gay, this

    old hotel has beenvamped up by its new,young owners. The roomsare stylish, with redbeing the predominantcolour, and some roomshave shared facilities.Breakfast is served until1pm. It is close to theclubs and saunas. dKerkstraat 42, 1017 GM Map L6 020 624 8074 www.amistad.nl

    rooms are spacious,some with features suchas fireplaces and windowseats. The breakfastroom opens on to a prettygarden. d Jacob Obrecht-straat 69 Map C6 020662 7574 www.hotel-sander.nl Dis. access

    OrfeoA consistent

    favourite amongAmsterdams gay hotels,the Orfeo is centrallylocated near bustlingLeidseplein. It hasfriendly, helpful owners,a convivial bar and freeFinnish sauna. d Leidse-kruisstraat 14, 1017 RH Map D5 020 623 1347 www.hotelorfeo.com

    Black TulipOnly in Amsterdam

    an exclusive hotel, open-ed in 1998, for gay meninto leather and bondage,with appropriate equip-ment in each room. Itsappropriately located too,near the leather areaand Centraal Station. dGeldersekade 16, 1012 BH Map Q2 020 427 0933 www.blacktulip.nl

    FlatmatesAmsterdam

    Not a hotel but a serviceoffering a variety ofaccomodation: anapartment on NieuweAchtergracht (near theTheater Carr), a studioapartment in the Jordaan,and an exclusively gayB&B on Java Eiland. d020 620 1545 www.flatmates.nl

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    art Left Engeland Right Quentin

    Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards andhave en-suite bathrooms.

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    Van OstadeBicycle Hotel

    Clean, cheap, simplerooms away from thetourist traps, bikes forrent, free maps, andfriendly advice on routesand sights attract ayoung clientele. Whatmight be a lounge else-where is a chill-outzone here in De Pijp. dVan Ostadestraat 123, 1072SV 020 679 3452 www.bicyclehotel.com

    MuseumzichtYou can peer down

    into the lovely Rijks-museum garden from theplain rooms at the backof this modest hoteloccupying the top floorsof a Victorian house. TheMuseumzichts greatestasset is its splendid loc-ation. d Jan Luykenstraat22, 1071 CN Map C5 020 671 2954

    AcaciaSteep stairs, simple

    rooms (some with epiccanal views) and apleasant breakfast roomare a quarter of an hourswalk away from the citycentre, in Jordaan. Thecharming owners alsooffer self-cateringstudios, and a houseboaton a nearby canal. dLindengracht 251, 1015 KH Map C2 020 622 1460 www.hotelacacia.nl

    KeizersgrachtGreat location, rooms

    for up to four people andbudget prices sound likea pipe dream, but this

    FantasiaClose to the Amstel,

    on a peaceful canal, theFantasia Hotel is cleanand well organized. Therooms on the top floorhave the most character,but all rooms have ashower and a phone. dNieuwe Keizersgracht 16,1018 DR Map Q6 020623 8259 Closed most ofwinter www.fantasia-hotelcom

    De MunckOriginally built for a

    ships captain and withinhailing distance of theAmstel, an otherwisetraditional interior hasbeen given a dose of1960s retro. Rooms inthe De Munck are airyand clean, and there isboth a bar and a garden.d Achtergracht 3, 1017 WL Map E5 020 623 6283 www.hoteldemunck.com

    Amstel BotelThe idea of staying

    on a boat has a certaincharm, but the downsideof the Amstel Botel isthat the rooms (or cabinsif you prefer) on thisfloating hotel are small,and even the view overthe water is dull. Theupside is getting three-star accommodation at avery reasonable price and being near thestation means there aretrams and buses on yourdoorstep. d Oosterdoks-kade 24, 1011 AE MapQ2 020 626 4247 www.amstelbotel.com

    welcoming hotel at thestation end of theKeizersgracht has themall and a bar andrestaurant to boot. dKeizersgracht 1517, 1015CC Map M1 020 6251364 www.hotelkeizersgracht.nl

    De AdmiraalAt the junction of

    Herensgracht andReguliersgracht, and withviews over both, thisfriendly hotels beamedbedrooms are biggerthan most, and its closeenough to the nightlifefor breakfast to beoptional. d Herengracht563, 1017 CD Map N6 020 626 2150 de-admiraal-hotel@planet.nl

    AsteriskFar from the madding

    crowd on a residentialbackstreet, this sprucelittle hotel has decent-sized bedrooms and atouch of style in its 19th-century moulded ceilings.Breakfast is included inthe room price. d DenTexstraat 16, 1017 ZA MapE6 020 624 1768 www.asteriskhotel.nl

    HegraIts prime location on

    the lovely Herengracht,its prices and the warmthof its welcome make upfor the (comfortable)rooms being rather onthe small side. dHerengracht 269, 1016 BJ Map L3 020 623 7877 www.hegrahotelamsterdam.com Closed Jan

    Budget Hotels

    Streetsmart

    Amstel Botel

    under 90 90140

    140200 200250

    over 250

    Price CategoriesFor a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.

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    General IndexAnne Frankhuis 7, 323,

    40, 48, 91, 93Anthonisz, Cornelis 24antique shops 112, 138Appel, Karel 47, 128April 110Aquarium, Artis 123, 125Arena 54t Arendsnest 94Arents, Cornelia 23Arkel, Gerrit van 45Aronson Antiquairs 112Artis Zoo 68, 123, 125Asterisk 149AUB Ticketshop 134auctions, flower 72Avercamp, Hendrick 13Avondverkoop Dolf 97

    BBaanders, H A J 115Back Beat 96Backhuysen, Ludolf 27Backstage 113Bagel & Beans 105Bakkerij Paul Anne 104Bakkerswinkel van

    Nineties 118De Balie 56Balraj 95banking 141Bar Bep 52, 86Bar With No Name 102Barents, Willem 39barrel organs 69bars 523

    Central Canal Ring 102Eastern Canal Ring 110Museum Quarter 118Nieuwe Zijde 86Oude Zijde 80Western Canal Ring 94

    basketball 71Batavian Republic 38, 49Beatrix, Queen 39Beddingtons 111beer 59, 63Beeren, Bet van 26Begijnhof 7, 223, 69, 83,

    85De Belhamel 95De Belly 96Ben & Jerrys 105Berlage, H P 84, 124Berlagebrug 11Bernard, Emile 18

    AAalderink 112Aalsmeer

    Bloemenveilingen 72Absinthe 87Acacia 149De Admiraal 53, 102De Admiraal Hotel 149Adolesce 146Agora 145Ajax Museum 127, 129Albert Cuypmarkt 62, 109Albert Heijn 62Albus Grand 146Allard Pierson Museum

    845Alma-Tadema, Lawrence

    18Als Plaice 87Altena Zeebanket Van 119Alteration (1578) 21, 38Ambassade 145ambulances 142American Book Center 87American football 71American Hotel 101AMS Atlas 147Amsberg, Claus von 39Amstel, Lords van 38Amstel Botel 149Amstel Inter-Continental

    144Amstel river 9, 11, 38, 107,

    109Amstelhof 125Amstelkerk 109Amstelpark 127Amstelveld 67Amsterdam Hotel Service

    134Amsterdam House 146Amsterdam pass 136Amsterdam School 101,

    124, 127Amsterdam Tourist Board

    134Amsterdam Wiechmann

    145Amsterdams Historisch

    Museum 7, 247, 40,69, 83, 85

    Amsterdamse Bos 65,128, 129

    Amsterdamse BosCamping 137

    Andriessen, Mari 48

    Beurs van Berlage 84, 85Bevrijdingsdag 70Bickerseiland 65, 93De Bierkoning 87Big Shoe 96Bijbels Museum 99, 101De Bijenkorf 62Bilderberg Garden 144Bilderberg Jan Luyken 144Bilhamer, Joost 29Binnenkant 66Bird 80Black Tulip 148Blaeu, Joan Willemsz 25Blakes 103, 144Blauw aan de Wal 80Blauwbrug 11Het Blauwe Theehuis 50,

    119Bleys, A C 43Bloemen Corso 70Bloemenmarkt 62, 69,

    108, 109, 113Bloemgracht 9, 67Blokker 62boats

    East Indiaman 68ferries 133houseboats 100Nederlands ScheepvaartMuseum 41, 123, 125Werf t KromhoutMuseum 123, 125Woonbootmuseum 100,101

    Boerenmarkt 62Bojo 103Bol, Ferdinand 30De Bolhoed 61, 95bookshops 143Boom Chicago 56Bouman, Elias 48, 78Brants, Christoffel 10Brasserie van Baerle 117,

    118Bredero, Gerbrant 47Breitner, G H 25Breton, Jules 18bridges 11Brienen, Jan van 92Brilmuseum 100Broekmans & Van Poppel

    119Broom, H C 24Brouwersgracht 9, 92brown cafs 51

  • 151

    coffeeshops 51, 78communications 141Concertgebouw 56, 69,

    115, 117, 119Concerto 113Condomerie 81condoms 63, 81consulates 142Coppenhagen 1001 Kralen

    96Cormon, Fernand 19Corot, J B C 19Cortina Papier 105Coster Diamonds 116, 117credit cards 141crime 140, 142Cristofori, Bartelomeo 56Cristofori Salon 56Crowne Plaza Amsterdam

    American 144Crowne Plaza Amsterdam

    City Centre 147Cultureel Jongeren

    Passport (CJP) 136currency 132, 141customs limits 132Cuyp, Albert 109Cuypers, P J H 12, 14, 84,

    115cycling 128

    bicycle hire 135bicycle theft 140bicycle tours 136cycle rides 645spectator sports 71

    DDe Bekeerde Suster 80De Dageraad Housing 127Dalou, Jules 18Dam, Cees 99Dam, Jan van den 27, 123Dam Square 7, 25, 345,

    83, 85Damrak 35De Angeli 29De Bijenkorf 35De Gooyer Windmill 44De Kooning, Willem 40De Krijtberg 43De Munck 94De Pels 102Degas, Edgar 19Dekker, Eduard Douwes 47Delacroix, Eugne 19Delft 72Delftware 13, 63dentists 142

    bulbs 63, 138The Bulldog 137De Burcht 124bureaux de change 141buses 133, 135

    CCaf Americain 101Caf Chris 10Caf Ebeling 118Caf Esprit 85Caf Hoppe 85Caf du Lac 93Caf t Mandje 26Caf Nol 93Caf Roux 6061, 79Caf de Sluyswacht 10,

    66, 79Caf Toussaint 118cafs 10, 5051

    Museum Quarter 11819Nieuwe Zijde 86Oude Zijde 80Western Canal Ring 94

    Cahen, Abel 78Calvinists 29, 38Campen, Jacob van 24,

    34, 83camping 137Canal House 145Canalbus 136canals 6, 811

    canal bikes 68, 135canal tours 136

    cannabis 63, 78Capsicum Natuurstoffen 81Carr, Oscar 125Carr Theatre 56, 125cars 132, 133, 135cash dispensers 141Cat Boat 10Centraal Station 84Central Canal Ring 98105Czanne, Paul 19Chagall, Marc 40children 689, 129, 132Chocolate Bar 110Christmas 71Christophe 95churches 423, 67, 69Claesz, Pieter 47clothes 132clubs 545coach travel 133CoBrA Caf 118Cobra movement 47Cobra Museum 128, 129coffee 59

    Deutzenhofje 109diamonds 63, 116, 138Dierencapel 93Dikker & Thijs Fenice 147Dining Eleven 103disabled visitors 139discounts 136, 137, 143doctors 142De Dokwerker 48Dolls House of Petronella

    Oortman 13Dortsman, Adriaan 66De Drie Fleschjes 85drinks 59driving 132, 133, 135drug laws 140Duende 94De Duivel 52, 110Dutch East India Company

    (VOC) 25, 30, 44, 68,84, 123, 124

    Dutch National Bank 10Dutch West India

    Company 45, 84, 93duty-free goods 132

    EE H Arins Kappers, /C P J

    van der Peet BV 112East Indiaman Amsterdam

    68Eastern Canal Ring 10613easyEverything 109Eerste Klas 51eetcafs 51Egelantiersgracht 67Eggert, Willem 83electricity 132embassies 142emergencies 142Engelbewaarder 50Engelse Kerk 22, 42Enkhuizen 72Entrepotdok 9, 123, 125Erasmus, Desiderius 47Escape 54Esthera 146Eufraat 111De lEurope 144excursions 723Exota 96

    FFantasia 149Felix Meritis 567, 100festivals and events 7071Fifties-Sixties 104film 116, 117, 119, 137

    Ind

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    Ind

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    House, Garden & InteriorTours 105

    houseboats 100Housewives on Fire 87Het Houten Huis 22, 23, 45Huis met de Hoofden 91Huis op de drie Grachten

    (House on the ThreeCanals) 45, 79

    Husly, Jacob Otten 100De Huysckaemer 110

    Iice hockey 71ICH Keizersgracht 149Iconoclasm (1566) 29, 38IJ, ferries 69In t Aepjen 44, 80In de Waag 79LIndochine 61Inez IPSC 111insurance 132, 140, 142ITC 148

    Jt Jagershuis 146Jansz, Pieter 29De Jaren 50, 86Java Eiland 128jenever 59, 63Jews 489 see also Anne

    Frankhuis, HollandseSchouwburg, JoodsHistorisch Museum, Portugees-IsralitischeSynagoge

    Jodenbuurt 48, 49Jongejans, Donald E 96Joods Historisch Museum

    48, 78Jordaan 64, 92, 93Jordaan Festival 71, 97

    KDe Kaaskamer 104Kalverstraat 35Kattenkabinet 99Keizersgracht 8, 11, 38, 98Keizersgracht (hotel) 149Keukenhof 73Keyser, Hendrick de 24, 27,

    42, 44, 79, 81, 91, 108Keyser, Pieter de 24, 27Kindermuseum 69, 127Kingfisher 110KIT Tropentheater 57Kitsch 111Kitsch Kitchen 96

    Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky35

    Greef, Jan de 45Green Planet 86Greenpeace Building 45Greenwich Village 148Greenwoods 97Grimburgwal 66, 79De Groene Gewoonte 118De Groene Lanterne 93Grotius, Hugo 47guided tours 136, 139

    HDen Haag 72Haarlem 72Haarlemmerbuurt 93Hagen, Dr Abraham van 30The Hague 72Hajenius, P G C 87Hals, Frans 46Hamer, P J and W 116Hans Brinker 137Hartman, Jan 20Hash Marijuana Hemp

    Museum 789Hegra 149Heineken, Freddy 53Heineken Experience 109,

    113Heineken Music Hall 57Hemp Hotel 113Hepburn, Audrey 56Herengracht 8, 11, 38, 64,

    67, 98, 99, 101Hermitage Amsterdam 125Himalaya 81historic buildings 445history 389Hitler, Adolf 49hockey 71hofjes 92Hogesluis 11Holland, Counts of 38Holland Festival 70Hollandsche Manege 69,

    117, 119Hollandsche Schouwburg

    48, 125Holst, Richard Roland 124Holthuysen, Sandrina 107Hooy, Jacob & Co 81Hoppe 50, 86Hortus Botanicus 67, 124hospitals 142hostels 137Hotel Pulitzer 105hotels 132, 134, 1449

    De Filosoof 145Finch 93, 94fire brigade 142Flatmates Amsterdam 148Floris V, Count 38flowers 108, 132, 138

    auctions 72Bloemenmarkt 62, 69,108, 109, 113

    Flying Pig Palace 137Fo Kuang Shan Temple 81food 589, 137Foodism 95football 71, 127Francis Xavier, St 43Frank, Anne 47, 49, 91

    Anne Frankhuis 7, 323,40, 48, 91, 93

    Frank, Otto 32, 33Freddys Bar 53Frederik Hendrik of

    Orange 39Friday Night Skate 119Frozen Fountain 105

    GGaasper Camping 137Galerie Elisabeth den

    Beiman de Haas 112Gambit 97games cafs 51Le Garage 118gardens see parks and

    gardensGauguin, Paul 16, 18, 19gay cafs 51gay hotels 148Gemeentearchief

    Amsterdam 129Gendt, A L van 84, 115, 117Getto 53, 80t Geveltje 97Gies, Miep 33Giorgione 46GO Cantina 97Golden Age 27, 38Golden Bear 148Golden Bend 98, 99, 101Golden Temple 111Goodies 103De Gouden Reael

    (Realeneiland) 93Goya, Francisco de 14Grachtenfestival 7071Grachtengordel 6, 11, 38, 106Grand Amsterdam (Sofitel

    Demeure) 144grand cafs 51

  • 153

    markets 623, 137Matisse, Henri 40Maximilian of Austria 42, 69Mazzo 54Mechanisch Speelgoed 96medical problems 140, 142Mediterranee 94Melkweg 54, 105metro 135Metz & Co 67, 99, 101, 103Michelangelo 46MME Jeanette 110Moko 52, 111Molenaer, Jan 30Het Molenpad 101, 102Mondriaan, Piet 40, 47Monet, Claude 18, 19, 81money 132, 141Montelbaanstoren 79More 54More, Thomas 47Moriang 102mosquitoes 140Mozes en Aronkerk 43Mller, Christian 43Mller, Johann Caspar 28Mulligans 110Multatuli 47, 99Munttoren 108, 109Museum Boat 136Museum Quarter 11419Museumkaart 136Museumplein 116, 117museums and galleries

    4041, 139Museumzicht 149music, budget travel 137music cafs 51Mussert, Anton 49Het Muziektheater 57

    Nnachtcafs 51Napoleon Bonaparte 10, 38Nationaal Monument 34Nationaal

    Museumweekend 70Nazis 48, 49, 70NBTC (Netherlands Board

    of Tourism andConventions) 134

    Nederlands Filmmuseum116, 117, 119

    Nederlands ScheepvaartMuseum 41, 123, 125

    Negen Straatjes 100, 101Nelis, Thom & Lenny 112NEMO 67, 68, 129

    Klerk, Michel de 127Kneulman, Carol 85KNSM Eiland 128De Koe 53Koniginnedag 70Koninklijk Paleis 34, 35,

    83, 85Koninklijk Theater Carr

    56, 125De Koophandel 97korfbal 71Kramer, Eduard 112Kramer, Piet 127Krasnapolsky, A W 35Kromhout, Willem 101De Kroon 50, 109Kurokawa, Kisho 16

    LHet Land van Walem 50,

    101, 102Lastman, Pieter 15, 77Latei 81left luggage 133Leidelmeijer, Frans 112Leiden 73Leidsegracht 9, 100, 101Leidseplein 101Lellebel 110Lely, Cornelis 100Levelt, Simon 96libraries 134, 143Lime 80Lingelbach 26Liotard, Jean-Etienne 13liqueurs 59literary figures 47Lof 60Het Loo 73Looier Kunst en

    Antiekcentrum 100, 101Looiersmarkt 62lost property 140Louis Napoleon, King 12,

    35, 38, 39, 83, 115Luther, Martin 47Lux 102

    MMadame Tussauds

    Scenerama 35, 67, 69magazines, listings 134Magere Brug 11, 67, 113Magna Plaza 63Mamouche 61Manet, Edouard 19marijuana 789Marken 73

    New Cadans 118New Years Eve 71newspapers 134NH Barbizon Palace 144NH Grand Hotel

    Krasnapolsky 144NH Schiller 146Nieuwe Amstelbrug 11Nieuwe Kerk 34, 42, 83, 85Nieuwe Zijde 827Nieuwmarkt 77, 79nightlife walk 64Nine Streets (Negen

    Straatjes ) 100, 101, 102NL-Lounge 54Noa 52, 103Nomads 103Nooit Meer 49Noorderkerk 42Noordermarkt 63, 92Noteboom, Cees 47

    OOkura 147Onder de Ooievaar 110Oortman, Petronella 13Oosterdok Lock 25Oostindisch Huis 44Open Monumentendagen

    70opening hours, shops 138Orfeo 148De Orient 118The Otherside 113Oude Kerk 7, 289, 42, 67,

    77, 79Oude Zijde 7681Oudemanhuispoort 79Ouderkerk aan de Amstel

    64, 128, 129Oudeschans 64Overloop-plantseon 67Owl 146

    PP96 94Paleis Het Loo 73Paleis van Justitie 45Panama 55Pancake Bakery 97Papeneiland 93Paradiso 55, 105Paradox 97parking 133parks and gardens 137passports 132, 142Pasta Panini 96PC Hoofstraat 117

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    Schipol Airport 133Schreierstoren 10, 44Het Schuim 86Scorel, Jan van 46Sea Palace 10Second World War 39, 49,

    124security 142Seven Bridges 145Seven One Seven 145shopping 623, 138

    Central Canal Ring 104Eastern Canal Ring 112walks 64Western Canal Ring 96

    show-jumping 71sightseeing 136Singel 9, 99Singel Hotel 146Sinterklaas Parade 71Six, Jan 47Sjaalman 95Sleutebrug 11Sluijters, Jan 18De Sluyswacht 80Small World 97t Smalle 94Soho 110Sound of the Fifties 105Sound Garden 94Soup en Zo 113souvenirs 63, 138Spanjer & Van Twist 51,

    95Spiegelkwartier 108Spinoza, Baruch 47sports 71Spui 85SSK 111Stadhuis-Muziektheater

    69, 78Stadsschouwburg 57Staets, Hendrick 27, 90Stalpaert, Daniel 41De Star Hofje 66, 92, 93Stayokay Vondelpark 137Stedelijk Museum 40, 115Steen, Jan 46Stereo Sushi 86Sterk, Marjan 112De Stijl 47De Still 87Stoffels, Hendrickje 15Stopera 78Stout 95street performances 35students 143Stuyvesant, Pieter 39, 45

    Red Light District 77, 79Reguliersgracht 9, 67De Reiger 51, 93, 94Rembrandt 35, 46, 77

    The Anatomy Lesson ofDr Deijman 25The Jewish Bride 12Museum HetRembrandthuis 41, 77, 79The Night Watch 6, 12,15, 27Oude Kerk 28, 29De Rieker windmill 127Self-Portraits 15, 46De Sluyswacht 80statue of 107Westerkerk 91

    Rembrandt Hotel 146Rembrandtplein 107Renaissance Amsterdam

    147Renoir, Pierre Auguste 19Residence Le Coin 147restaurants 6061

    Central Canal Ring 103disabled visitors 139Eastern Canal Ring 111Museum Quarter 118Nieuwe Zijde 86Oude Zijde 80Western Canal Ring 95

    Reve, Gerard 47Reynolds, Burt 56De Rieker windmill 127Rietveld, Gerrit 16, 40, 99,

    102, 115Rijksmuseum 6, 1215,

    40, 115, 117Rijksmuseum Garden 14, 69RMF Streetwear 81De Rode Leeuw 60Rodin, Auguste 19Roemer Visscherstraat 69Rokin 35Roses Cantina 111rowing 71Ruisdael, Jacob van 13, 46running 71Ruyter, Michiel de 39

    SSaarein II 102safety 140, 142St Antoniessluis 11St Nicolaas Kerk 43Sander 148Scheepvaarthuis 45Schiller Hotel 109, 113

    Le Pcheur 61Pels, Hermann van 32De Peperwortel 119performing arts venues 567Peter the Great 10Peters, Cornelis Hendrik 63Pfeffer, Fritz 33pharmacies 142Philip II, King of Spain 38,

    39Piano, Renzo 129Picasso, Pablo 40Pied--Terre 87Pieneman, Jan Willem 14Los Pilones 103Pinto, Isaac de 44Pintohuis 44, 79Planetarium, Artis 123, 125planning your trip 132Plantage 65, 1225police 142Pompadour 101, 104Pontifex 104Portugees-Isralitische

    Synagoge 48, 78post offices 141Prinseneiland 65, 93Prinsengracht 8, 11, 38,

    65, 98Prinsenhof 145Prison Bridge 10Proust 93Prouvin, Henri 86Provo movement 39public holidays 132Puccinni 87Pulitzer 144puppet shows 68Puvis de Chavannes 18

    QQuellien, Artus 35Quentin 148Quentin Engeland 148Quist, Wim 128

    Rradio 141Radisson SAS 147Raey, Jeremias van 30rail travel 133, 135Rakang 103Ramada City Centre South

    147Raphael 46Ravensbrck Memorial 49Razzmatazz 104Realeneiland 65, 93

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    VVakbondsmuseum 124Vakzuid 55Valck, Gerrit 27Van Bree 26Van der Mey, de Klerk and

    Kramer 45Van Dongen, Kees 18Van Dreven Antiquair 112Van Gogh, Theo 16, 19Van Gogh, Vincent 14, 16,

    17, 19, 46, 47Van Gogh Museum 6,

    1619, 40, 115, 117Van Loon family 7, 3031Van Ostade Bicycle Hotel

    149Van Puffelen 101, 102Van Vlaanderen 60VAT 138Vater, Christian 28Verhulst, Rombout 35Vermeer (restaurant) 60Vermeer, Johannes 12, 46,

    72Veronese, Paolo 14Verzetsmuseum 49, 124,

    125victim support 142Victoria Hotel Amsterdam

    147De Vijff Vlieghen 86Villa Zeezicht 86Village Bagels 113Vinckenbrinck, Albert 34Vingboons, Justus 44Vingboons, Philips 45, 67,

    91, 98, 99visas 132Visser, Tjipke 25Vliegenbos Camping 137Vliegerwinkel, Joe 81De Vliegende Schotel 95VOC Caf 80Vondel, Joost van den 47,

    115Vondelpark 69, 115, 117Vondelpark

    Openluchttheater 119Vossius 60Vrankrijk 87VU courses 143VW 134

    XWaaij, Nicolaas van der 25Waalse Kerk 43Wagamama 103

    Suasso-de Bruijn, SophiaLopez 25

    Summer University 143Supperclub 86Swisstel Amsterdam 147Synagoge, Portugees-

    Isralitische 48, 78

    TTabac 94Tasman, Abel 39tax-free shopping 138taxis 135, 139telephones 141television 141Tepe, Alfred 43Ter Borch, Gerard 13La Tertulia 105Theatermuseum 67, 91theatre, budget travel 137theft 140, 142Thorbecke, Johan 39Tibet 81Tis Fris 80Tischbein, J F A 31toilets, public 140Toren 145Torensluis 10, 11Toro 145Toscanini 95Tth-lkonen 112Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri

    de 18tourist offices 134Tourist Tram 136Tower of Tears 10, 44trains 133, 135trams 65, 68, 135, 136travel 133, 135

    budget travel 137disabled visitors 139

    travellers cheques 141Trip, Catharina 30Trippenhuis 44Tropenmuseum 69, 127, 129Tujuh Maret 61, 109Tulipmania 38Turner, J M W 19Tuschinski Theatre 49, 108,

    109Twee Zwaantjes 51

    UUtrecht 73Utrechtsedwarfstafel 111UvA courses 143Uylenburgh, Saskia van

    15, 28

    walks 645, 135Central Canal Ring 101Eastern Canal Ring 109Museum Quarter 117Nieuwe Zijde 85Oude Zijde 79Plantage 125walking tours 136Western Canal Ring 93

    water taxis 136Waterfront 148Waterlooplein 63websites 134Weissman, A W 40welfare system 23Werf t Kromhout

    Museum 123, 125Westerkerk 42, 67, 91, 93Western Canal Ring 9097Western Islands 65, 93Westindisch Huis 45Whats Cooking 104Wijnand Fockink 523, 80Wildschut 118Wilhelmina 146Willem-Alexander, Crown

    Prince 39, 83Willet, Abraham 107William II, Stadholder 93William III, Stadholder 14,

    39, 73William of Orange 21, 39,

    72Wimbaut, Dr F M 25windmills 44, 127Winston International 52,

    55Wit, Jacob de 21, 107Witt, Jan de 39De Witte Tandenwinkel 104Wolkers, Jan 49Wolvenstraat 102Woonbootmuseum 100,

    101

    ZZandhoek 66Zeedijk 77Zinne & Minne 104Zipper 104Zocher, J D and L P 115Zons Hofje 66, 92, 93Zoo, Artis 68, 123, 125Zorreguieta, Mxima 39De Zotte 102Zuiderbad 119Zuiderkerk 42, 67, 81Zushi 11

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    AcknowledgementsMain ContributorsFiona Duncan and Leonie Glass are aBritish travel-writing team of 15 yearsstanding. They are co-authors of threeguides in Duncan Petersens 3-D CityGuides series, including a guide toAmsterdam; Paris Walks, in the On FootCity Guides series; and several CharmingSmall Hotel guides.

    Additional ContributorsPip Farquharson (Top 10 Bars, PerformingArts Venues and Clubs; all Around Townlistings) is a journalist and long-timeinhabitant of Amsterdam. She publishesher own alternative listings guide to thecity, Shark.

    Rodney Bolt (Top 10 Cafs, Bars andRestaurants) also lives in Amsterdam. He is a novelist, and author of severaltravel guides.

    Produced by DP Services, a division ofDUNCAN PETERSEN PUBLISHING LTD

    Project Editor Chris BarstowDesigner Janis UttonPicture Researcher Lily SellarIndexer Hilary BirdMain Photographer Anthony SouterAdditional Photography Max Alexander,Steve Gorton, Rupert Horrox, Kim Sayer,Clive StreeterIllustrator chrisorr.comMaps Dominic Beddow, Simonetta Giori(Draughtsman Ltd)

    FOR DORLING KINDERSLEYPublisher Douglas AmrineSenior Art Editor Marisa RenzulloSenior Cartographic Editor Casper MorrisDTP Jason LittleProduction Sarah DoddPicture Librarian Charlotte Oster

    Picture Creditst-top; tc-top centre; tl-top left; tr-top right;cla-centre left above; ca-centre above; cra-centre right above; cl-centre left; c-centre;cr-centre right; clb-centre left below; cb-centre below; crb-centre right below; bl-bottom left; bc-bottom centre; bcl-bottomcentre left; bcr-bottom centre right; br-bottom right; d-detail.

    Every effort has been made to trace thecopyright holders and we apologize inadvance for any unintentional omissions.We would be pleased to insert theappropriate acknowledgements in anysubsequent edition of this publication.

    Works of art have been reproduced withthe permission of the following copyrightholders: ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London2002 Portrait of Bernards Grandmother,1887, by Emile Bernard 18b; DACS, 2002,Children with Dog, 1950, by Karel Appel47bl; Munch Museum/Munch-EllingsenGroup, BONO, Oslo, DACS, London 2002,Two Women on the Beach, 1898, byEdvard Munch 14tl.

    The publishers would like to thank thefollowing individuals, companies and picturelibraries for permission to reproduce theirphotographs:AKG LONDON: 38tr, 49rd, Dutch BattleShips, 1863, by Ludolf Backhuysen 27b;Residenzmuseum, Munich, Peter theGreat, 1717 by Jean Marc Nattier 10c;Kunsthistorisches Museum, Erich Lessing,Allegory of Painting, c1665-66, by JanVermeer 46tl. AMSTERDAM ARENA: 71rd,129tr. AMSTERDAMS HISTORISCHMUSEUM: 7cla, 24t, 25tc, 25cra, 25bl,26b, 40b, 107b; Birds Eye View ofAmsterdam, 1538, by Cornelis Anthonisz24c; The Return to Amsterdam of theSecond Expedition to the East Indies,1599, by Hendrik Cornelisz Vroom 24b; TheAnatomy Lesson of Dr Jan Deijman, 1656,by Rembrandt van Rijn 25c; Dam Squarewith the New Town Hall under Construction,1656, by Johannes Lingelbach 26tl; Portraitof 17 Guards by Cornelis Anthonisz 26tr;Silver Marriage Cup by Gerrit Valek 27c;Arrival of Napoleon at Dam Square, 1811by Matheus I van Bree 38tl; Tulp en Spinby B. Assteijn 83b. AFF/AFSAMSTERDAM, THE NETHERLANDS: 7bl,32tl, 32br, 32-33c, 33cr, 33b, 47br.BIJBELS MUSEUM: Ernest Annyas 99t,101br.COBRA MUSEUM VOOR MODERNEKUNST, AMSTELVEEN: DACS, 2002,Children with Dog, 1950, by Karel Appel 47bl.COSTER DIAMONDS: 116b, 117tr. GETTY IMAGES: 47tr.

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    IQ CREATIVE: Supperclub, More ... enNomads 54bl.JAN DERWIG ARCHITECTUURFOTOGRAFIE: 126b. JOODS HISTORISCHMUSEUM: Jeroen Nooter 48tl, 48tr, 48b.KONINKLIJK INSTITUT VOOR DE TROPEN:127t. KONINKLIJK THEATER CARR: RobLiot 122tl.MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY: 39br.MUSEUM AMSTELKRING: Gert Jan vanRooij 6b, 20tl, 20cb, 20br, 20-21c, 21cr,21cb, 21bl, 82c. MUSEUM HETREMBRANDTHUIS: 41t, 76tr. MUSEUMVAN LOON: Maarten Brinkgreve 7cr, 30tl,30cb, 30cr, 30-31c, 31cr, 31bc; TheRomantic Double Portrait, 1791, by J.F.ATischbein 31bl.NEDERLANDS SCHEEPVAARTMUSEUM,AMSTERDAM: 40tr, Plan of Amsterdam,1648, 11b. NEMO SCIENCE ANDTECHNOLOGY CENTER: 129blPA PHOTOS: 39bl.PATH TUSCHINSKI, AMSTERDAM: 49t,106cr. PICTURE BOX: 64tl, 64b, 70tl, 70tr,70b; Cuypers, Fotografie Igno 42tl;Amerens Hedwich 23tc, 23c, 40tl; Leedenvan der Henk 71tl.RIJKSMUSEUM, AMSTERDAM: 13cr,13cb, 14tr; The Kitchen Maid, 1658, byJohannes Vermeer 6cl, 12b; The Windmillat Wijk, 1670, by Jacob van Ruisdael 13tr;Winter Landscape with Skaters, 1608, byHendrick Avercamp 13cra; Portrait ofWoman in Turkish Costume, 1745, by Jean-Etienne Liotard 13bl; Munch Museum/Munch-Ellingsen Group, BONO, Oslo,DACS, London 2002, Two Women on theBeach, 1898, by Edvard Munch 14tl; GallantConversation, 1654, by Gerard ter Borch II14tc; Self Portrait as St Paul, 1661, byRembrandt van Rijn 15c; Company of FransBanning Cocq and Willem van Ruytenburchknown as The Night Watch, 1642, byRembrandt van Rijn 15b; Self Portrait at a

    Young Age, 1628, by Rembrandt van Rijn 46c.THEATER MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM: 67bl.VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM(VINCENT VAN GOGH FOUNDATION):View of Prins Hendrikkade by ClaudeMonet 18tc; Vincent van Gogh Foundation19cl; Vase with Sunflowers, 1889, byVincent van Gogh 6cb, 16c; The PotatoEaters, 1889 by Vincent van Gogh 16cb; A Pair of Shoes, 1885, by Vincent van Gogh17tr; Self Portrait as an Artist, 1887, byVincent van Gogh 17ca; Wheatfield withCrows, 1890, by Vincent van Gogh 17b,46tr; Exhausted Maenads after the Dance,1875, by L Alma Tadema 18tl; Self Portraitwith a Portrait of Bernard, Les Misrables,1888, by Paul Gauguin 18tr; ADAGP, Parisand DACS, London 2002 Portrait of BernardsGrandmother, 1887, by Emile Bernard 18b;The Bedroom at Arles, 1888, by Vincentvan Gogh 19b. WORLD OF AJAX: 127b.

    All other images Dorling Kindersley. Seewww.dkimages.com for more information.

    Dorling Kindersley Special Editions

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    the UK) Sarah.Burgess@dk.com or Special Sales, Dorling Kindersley Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL; (in the United States) Special Markets Department,

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    us at www.dk.com

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    In an EmergencyHelp! Help! HelpStop! Stop! StopCall a Haal een Haal uhn doctor. dokter. dok-tur

    Call an Bel een Bell uhn ahm-ambulance. ambulance. bew-luhns-uh

    Call the Roep de Roop duh poe-police. politie. leet-see

    Call the fire Roep de Roop duhbrigade. brandweer. brahnt-vheer

    Communication Essentials Yes Ja YaaNo Nee NayPlease Alstublieft Ahls-tew-bleeftThank you Dank u Dahnk-ewExcuse me Pardon Pahr-donHello Hallo HalloGoodbye Dag DahghGood night Slaap lekker slapp lek-kahmorning Morgen Mor-ghuhafternoon Middag Mid-dahghevening Avond Ah-vohndWhat? Wat? VhatWhen? Wanneer? Vhan-eerWhy? Waarom? Vhaar-omWhere? Waar? Vhaar

    Useful PhrasesHow are you? Hoe gaat het Hoo ghaat het

    ermee? er-mayVery well, Heel goed, Hayl ghoot,thank you. dank u. dahnk ew

    How do you Hoe maakt Hoo maaktdo? u het? ew het

    Thats fine. Prima. Pree-mahWhere is/are ...? Waar is/zijn? Vhaar iss/zaynHow do I Hoe kom Hoo kom get to ...? ik naar ...? ik naar

    Do you speak Spreekt u Spraykt ewEnglish? Engels? eng-uhls

    I dont Ik snap het Ik snahp hetunderstand. niet. neet

    Im sorry. Sorry. Sorry

    ShoppingHow much Hoeveel kost Hoo-vayldoes this cost? dit? kost dit?

    I would like ... Ik wil graag ... Ik vhil ghraakhDo you have ...? Heeft u ...? Hayft ewDo you take Neemt u credit Naymt ewcredit cards? cards aan? credit cards aan

    Do you take Neemt u Naymt ew travellers reischeques raiys-sheks cheques? aan? aan

    What time do Hoe laat gaat u Hoo laat ghaatyou open/close? open/dicht? ew opuh/dikht

    this one deze day-zuhthat one Die deeexpensive duur dewrcheap goedkoop ghoot-koapsize maat maatwhite wit vhitblack zwart zvhahrtred rood roatyellow geel ghaylgreen groen ghroonblue blauw blah-ew

    Types of Shopantique shop antiekwinkel ahn-teek-vhin-

    kulbakery bakker bah-kerbank bank bahnkbookshop boekwinkel book-vhin-kulbutcher slager slaakh-ercake shop banketbakkerij bahnk-et-bahk-

    er-aiycheese shop kaaswinkel kaas-vhin-kulchemist apotheek ah-poe-taiykchip shop patatzaak pah-taht-zaakdelicatessen delicatessen daylee-kah-tes-

    suhdepartment warenhuis vhaar-uh-houwsstore

    fishmonger viswinkel viss-vhin-kulgreengrocer groenteboer ghroon-tuh-boorhairdresser kapper kah-permarket markt mahrktnewsagent krantenwinkel krahn-tuh-vhin-

    kulpost office postkantoor pohst-kahn-torshoe shop schoenenwinkel sghoo-nuh-

    vhin-kulsupermarket supermarkt sew-per-mahrkttobacconist sigarenwinkel see-ghaa-ruh-

    vhin-kultravel agent reisburo raiys-bew-roa

    Sightseeingart gallery galerie ghaller-eebus station busstation buhs-stah-

    shownbus ticket strippenkaart strip-puh-kaahrtcathedral kathedraal kah-tuh-draalchurch kerk kehrkclosed on public op feestdagen op fayst-daa-holidays gesloten ghuh

    ghuh-slow-tuhday return dagretour dahgh-ruh-tourgarden tuin touwnlibrary bibliotheek bee-bee-yo-taykmuseum museum mew-zay-uhmrailway station station stah-shownreturn ticket retourtje ruh-tour-tyuhsingle journey enkeltje eng-kuhl-tyuhtourist VVV fay fay fayinformation

    town hall stadhuis staht-houwstrain trein traiyn

    Staying in a HotelDo you have Zijn er nog Zaiyn er nokha vacant room? kamers vrij? kaamers vray

    double room een twee uhn tvhay-perpersoonskamer soans-kaa-mer

    with double bed met een twee met uhn tvhay-persoonsbed per-soans beht

    twin room een kamer met uhn kaa-mer een lits-jumeaux met uhn

    lee-zjoo-mohsingle room eenpersoons- ayn-per-soans-

    kamer kaa-merroom with bath kamer met bad kaa-met bahtshower douche doosh

    porterr kruier krouw-yuhI have a Ik heb Ik hehp ghuh-reservation. gereseveerd. ray-sehr-veert

    Phrase Book

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    Eating OutHave you got Is er een tafel Iss ehr uhn tah-a table? vrij? fuhl vraiy

    Id like to Ik wil een tafel Ik vhil uhn tah-reserve a table. reserveren. fuhl ray-sehr-

    veer-uhbreakfast het ontbijt het ont-baiytlunch de lunch duh lernshdinner het diner het dee-nayThe bill, Mag ik Mukh ik ahf- please. afrekenen. ray-kuh-nuh

    waitress serveerster sehr-veer-sterwaiter meneermenu de kaart duh kaahrtstarter, het voorgerecht het vohr-ghuh-first course rekht

    main course het hoofdgerecht het hoaft-ghuh-rekht

    dessert het nagerecht het naa-ghuh-rekht

    cover charge het couvert het koo-vehrwine list de wijnkaart duh vhaiyn-kaartglass het glas het ghlahssbottle de fles duh flessknife het mes het messfork de vork duh forkspoon de lepel duh lay-pul

    Menu Decoderaardappels aard-uppuhls potatoesazijn aah-zaiyn vinegarbiefstuk beef-stuhk steakbier, pils beer, pilss beerboter boater butterbrood broat breadcake, taart, cake, taahrt, cake, pastrygebak ghuh-bahk

    chocola show-coa-laa chocolatecitroen see-troon lemoncocktail cocktail cocktaildroog droakh dryeend aynt duckei aiy egggarnalen ghahr-naah-luh prawnsgebakken ghuh-bah-ken friedgegrild ghuh-ghrillt grilledgekookt ghuh-koakt boiledgepocheerd ghuh-posh-eert poachedgroenten ghroon-tuh vegetablesham hahm hamharing haa-ring herringhutspot huht-spot hot potijs aiyss ice, ice creamjenever yuh-nay-vhur ginkaas kaas cheesekabeljauw kah-buhl-youw codkip kip chickenkoffie coffee coffeekool, rode of coal, roe-duh off cabbage, red orwitte vhit-uh white

    kroket crow-ket ragout in bread-crumbs

    lamsvlees lahms-flayss lambmineraalwater meener-aahl-vhaater mineral watermosterd moss-tehrt mustardolie oh-lee oilpannekoek pah-nuh-kook pancakepatat frites pah-taht freet chipspeper pay-per pepperpoffertjes poffer-tyuhs tiny buckwheat

    pancakesrijst raiyst rice

    rijsttafel raiys-tah-ful Indonesian mealrode wijn roe-duh vhaiyn red winerookworst roak-vhorst smoked

    sausagerundvlees ruhnt-flayss beefsaus souwss sauceschaaldieren skaahl-deeh-ruh shellfishscherp skehrp hot (spicy)schol sghol plaicesoep soup soupstamppot stahm-pot sausage stewsuiker souw-ker sugarthee tay teatosti toss-tee cheese on toastuien ouw-yuh onionsuitsmijter ouht-smaiy-ter fried egg on

    bread with hamvarkensvlees vahr-kuhns-flayss porkvers fruit fehrss frouwt fresh fruitverse jus vehr-suh zjhew fresh orange

    juicevis fiss fish/seafoodvlees flayss meatwater vhaa-ter waterwitte wijn vhih-tuh vhaiyn white wineworst vhorst sausagezout zouwt salt

    Numbers1 een ayn2 twee tvhay3 drie dree4 vier feer5 vijf faiyf6 zes zess7 zeven zay-vuh8 acht ahkht9 negen nay-guh10 tien teen11 elf elf12 twaalf tvhaalf13 dertien dehr-teen14 veertien feer-teen15 vijftien faiyf-teen16 zestien zess-teen17 zeventien zayvuh-teen18 achttien ahkh-teen19 negentien nay-ghuh-teen20 twintig tvhin-tukh21 eenentwintig aynuh-tvhin-tukh30 dertig dehr-tukh40 veertig feer-tukh50 vijftig faiyf-tukh60 zestig zess-tukh70 zeventig zay-vuh-tukh80 tachtig tahkh-tukh90 negentig nayguh-tukh100 honderd hohn-durt1000 duizend douw-zuhnt1,000,000 miljoen mill-yoon

    Timeone minute een minuut uhn meen-ewtone hour een uur uhn ewra day een dag uhn dahghMonday maandag maan-dahghTuesday dinsdag dins-dahghWednesday woensdag vhoons-dahghThursday donderdag donder-dahghFriday vrijdag vraiy-dahghSaturday zaterdag zaater-dahghSunday zondag zon-dahgh

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    Piet Heinkade G2Pieter Cornelisz Hooftstraat C5Pijlsteeg N2Plantage Middenlaan G4Plantage Parklaan R6Plantsoen C5Postjesweg A4Potgieterstraat B4Prins Hendrikkade P1Prinsengracht K4Prinsenstraat L1Raadhuisstraat L3Raamgracht P4Raamplein K6Raamsteeg M4Raamstraat K6Rapenburgerstraat R5Reestraat L3Reguliersdwarsstraat M6Reguliersbreestraat N6Rembrandtplein N6Roeterstraat F5Rokin N4Rozengracht J3Rozenstraat J3Runstraat K5Rusland N4Sarphatistraat F5Singel M5Sint Agnietenstraat N4Sint Annenstraat P3Sint Jansstraat N3Sint Luciensteeg M4Sint Olofspoort P2Slijkstraat N4Spinhuissteeg P4Spui M5Spuistraat M2Sint Antoniesbreestraat P4Stadhouderskade C5Stationsplein P1Teerketelsteeg N1Tuinstraat K1Utrechtsestraat E5Valkenburgerstraat R4Van Baerlestraat C6Van Breestraat C6Van Hallstraat B1Van Swindenstraat, 1e H5Van Woustraat E6Vendelstraat N5Verversstraat P5Vijzelgracht D5Vijzelstraat N6Vondelstraat C5Warmoesstraat P2Waterlooplein Q5Weesperstraat Q6Weesperzijde F6Westeinde E6Westerdoksdijk D1Westerdokskade D1Westerkade J2Weteringschans D5Wibautstraat F6Wijdesteeg M4Willem de Zwijgerlaan A3Willemsparkweg B6Witte de Withstraat A4Wittenburgergracht G4Wolvenstraat L4Zandstraat P4Zeeburgerdijk H4Zeedijk Q2Zwanenburgwal P5

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    OUSTRAAT

  • YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

    TOP

    6.99Printed in Italy

    Whether you are travelling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight

    to the very best Amsterdam has to offer.

    Dozens of Top 10 lists from the Top 10 paintings in theRijksmuseum to the Top 10 restaurants, shops, and

    hotels provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs.And to save you time and money, there's even a list of the

    Top 10 Things to Avoid.

    Find your way effortlessly using the detailed maps whichfold out from the front and back covers, plus many

    smaller maps inside.

    Discover more atwww.dk.com

    10EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

    YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

    Voted Best Guide Book by Guardian andObserver readers

    AMSTERDAM

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    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice

    /ColorImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorACSImageDict > /JPEG2000ColorImageDict > /AntiAliasGrayImages false /CropGrayImages false /GrayImageMinResolution 150 /GrayImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleGrayImages true /GrayImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /GrayImageResolution 150 /GrayImageDepth -1 /GrayImageMinDownsampleDepth 2 /GrayImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeGrayImages true /GrayImageFilter /DCTEncode /AutoFilterGrayImages true /GrayImageAutoFilterStrategy /JPEG /GrayACSImageDict > /GrayImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayACSImageDict > /JPEG2000GrayImageDict > /AntiAliasMonoImages false /CropMonoImages false /MonoImageMinResolution 300 /MonoImageMinResolutionPolicy /OK /DownsampleMonoImages true /MonoImageDownsampleType /Bicubic /MonoImageResolution 300 /MonoImageDepth -1 /MonoImageDownsampleThreshold 1.00000 /EncodeMonoImages true /MonoImageFilter /CCITTFaxEncode /MonoImageDict > /AllowPSXObjects true /CheckCompliance [ /None ] /PDFX1aCheck false /PDFX3Check false /PDFXCompliantPDFOnly false /PDFXNoTrimBoxError true /PDFXTrimBoxToMediaBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXSetBleedBoxToMediaBox true /PDFXBleedBoxToTrimBoxOffset [ 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 0.00000 ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfile () /PDFXOutputConditionIdentifier (Custom) /PDFXOutputCondition () /PDFXRegistryName () /PDFXTrapped /False

    /Description > /Namespace [ (Adobe) (Common) (1.0) ] /OtherNamespaces [ > > /FormElements true /GenerateStructure true /IncludeBookmarks true /IncludeHyperlinks true /IncludeInteractive true /IncludeLayers false /IncludeProfiles false /MarksOffset 6 /MarksWeight 0.250000 /MultimediaHandling /UseObjectSettings /Namespace [ (Adobe) (CreativeSuite) (2.0) ] /PDFXOutputIntentProfileSelector /DocumentRGB /PageMarksFile /RomanDefault /PreserveEditing true /UntaggedCMYKHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UntaggedRGBHandling /UseDocumentProfile /UseDocumentBleed false >> ]>> setdistillerparams> setpagedevice