A Nepali will usually not say “No”.

Nepalis are very polite and are inspired by the motto “Atithi Devo Vaba” or “Guests are gods”. And who would dare say no to the gods. Jokes aside, don’t expect something to happen just because somebody has said so. They might just have been ‘kind’. Understand this and act accordingly.

Everybody is one time in Nepal, give or take half an hour.

Just don’t get mad over it.

How much more time to Place X? will inevitably result in timings that are way less than what it will actually take.

Do not take issue as it mostly results from good intentions. It could either be that the one you put the question to can walk much faster or simply doesn’t want to demoralize you with a 3hr estimate when a polite “15 minute” could send you running off all upbeat.

https://theroguerebel.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/10361979_10205377680310733_7968432532843671012_n.jpg

Dress modestly?

Yes you have heard this a zillion times but it is perhaps one of the most important tidbits about Nepal, well at least in the rural areas. Dressing modestly shows cultural sensitivity and you will hence receive warmer treatment, everything else being equal that is.

http://lamakarma.net/wp-content/uploads/img-730133745-0033.jpg

Nepalis hate India.

But love Indian music, food, goods, cars, movies, TV series, actresses and actors. Just don’t call a Nepali, Indian or say how similar Nepal is to India.

http://www.ace-holidays.com/wp-content/uploads/Baby-movie-Akshay-Kumar-Filmed-In-Nepal.jpg

Everybody is related to everybody else in Nepal.

That is why even when two people who have just met hit it off with Dai (Elder Brother) and Bhai (Younger Brother) dynamics. Also popular are Aama (Mother), Buwa (Father) Didi (Elder Sister), Bahini (Younger Sister), Baaje (Grandfather), Bajai (Grangmother), Mama (Maternal Uncle) and also more recently Uncle and Aunty. Feel free to join the one big happy family. Just don’t say Swasni or Budi (wife).

http://www.ourplanetsmanyfaces.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Screen-Shot-2014-10-09-at-9.32.14-PM.png

Public Display of Affection will garner a lot of Public Display of Attention.

While the younger generation are getting more comfortable with this mode of affection you will raise a few eyebrows and some cameras if you indulge in such activities.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/0G90YD-XQAs/maxresdefault.jpg

The world is my urinal.

During a trek it is okay to pee in the open and it applies equally to the fairer sex too. Wearing a long skirt kinda comes in handy for this purpose. Just make sure you are a good distance from any kind of water source.

https://static.pexels.com/photos/6550/nature-sky-sunset-man.jpeg

Travel Expectations- I feel like Indiana Jones, going on a trek in Nepal. This will be the ultimate wilderness.

Such expectations would have been correct in the more popular regions of Everest and Annapurna about 50 years ago and is still true in a lot of less popular treks.

Reality- Starbucks, Seven Eleven, Margarita, Sex on the Beach are all available.

It has been more than half a century since commercial trekking started in Nepal. During this period Nepal has made a transition from a forbidden and enchanted Shangri La to a hashish haven for hippies to a budget destination for backpackers to now an upcoming mid-range destination. A lot of facilities has come up and even in the once remote hinterlands of Everest there is internet connectivity and chilled beer.http://nepalitimes.com/article/Nepali-Times-Buzz/trekking-in-Nepal-turns-50,2658

Travel Expectations-It will be kind of like a picnic on the beach but with the beautiful mountain views.

Most first timers wish to see the mountains they have been seeing in travel magazines and social media. Very few realize that it takes a certain amount of effort to get up there. And the effort required is proportionate to the altitude. Certain degree of mental calmness, physical fitness will help, but above everything else an open and accepting mind will do wonders.

http://www.nepalgatewaytrekking.com/pagegallery/wilderness-trek24.jpg

Reality- Why am I breathless all the time??

Air pressure goes down with altitude. That means the amount of oxygen available at a higher altitude is much less than what is available at sea level. To put it in perspective at about 5,000 meters there is about half the oxygen than at sea level. Hence the breathlessness and increased labor at high altitudes. Add to it the fact that the Himalayas is not only the highest but also the steepest mountain range on earth. This is a vacation that is not bought, this is a vacation that is earned.http://honeyguideapps.com/blog/trekking/trekking-nepal-0

http://www.thedailysheeple.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/exhausted-man-130214.jpg

Travel Expectations-I am going to try all sorts of local delicacies.

For such a small country, Nepal has an incredible variety of ethnic groups. And more ethnic groups mean a varied menu. The Newars of the Kathmandu Valley make amazing delicacies from buffalo while Brahmins are great at dairy products. Higher up potato, yak and barley figure prominently in the menu. The local brews can also be somewhat of a dare.

Reality- I think I have been to all restrooms in this country.

Delhi Belly. Montezuma’s Revenge. Kathmandu Quickstep!!About two-thirds of all visitors coming into Nepal face some sort of stomach upsets. While most of such upsets will usually pass in a few days as a lot of well meaning people will tell you, it is equally likely that your runs will last weeks. Be well informed:http://ciwec-clinic.com/travelers-diarrhea/

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Travel Expectations- I will meet a lot of people dressed in traditional clothing and steeped in ‘authentic’ local culture.

Yes there are still a lot of area that have seen little cultural infiltration from abroad and generally the older generation still hold on to their roots.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/5ZOW7L6mzk4/maxresdefault.jpg

Reality- Priests zoom past you in dirt bikes putting many a dirt bike champions to shame.

While Nepal is a still backward in many respects and overall the country is a work in progress, the amount of foreign exposure in Nepal considerable. This is due in large part to an open media and the fact that about 10 percent of the population of Nepal work overseas. People, is Nepal’s biggest export.http://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/may/24/qatar-denies-nepalese-world-cup-workers-leave-after-earthquakes

Murphy’s Law- Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.

Travel by its very nature is unpredictable and the only way to take care of this is to have an open mind. This is especially important in Nepal as the whole country is a work in progress. While you battle hard to follow the exact itinerary that you originally had, it might turn out that there isn’t much you can do about the unpredictable Himalaya weather or a landslide that blocks off the road or for that matter a political strike. You will perhaps see some wisdom in the fatalistic Nepali catch line, “K Garne?” or “Nothing can be done”.

http://cdn.timesofisrael.com/uploads/2014/10/Nepal-4-e1413917028752.jpg

It is a eat where you stay deal at the lodges.

While it sounds weird to most first time visitors, this practice is the norm in the trekking regions. Most lodges give out their rooms for a paltry sum and make up the difference from the food and drinks. If you dine someplace else it might turn out that the lodge owner will charge you a rather hefty sum for the accommodation. No such restrictions exist in Kathmandu and Pokhara.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9hLabMgy_rs/Tk0B4lgdOMI/AAAAAAAAAMU/_cg56N8gBZU/s1600/sahashi.jpg

Usually your guide will choose the lodges for you. If you wish to choose lodges to your own liking, make this clear beforehand.

The reason for this weird arrangement is that both large trekking companies and guides have arrangements with select lodges, whereby lodge owners get a steady business and companies and guides are guaranteed rooms and discounts.

How fit does one need to be in order to trek in Nepal? How should one prepare?

Nepal has treks of varied levels of difficulty and most reasonably fit people can accomplish the treks. As for preparing for a trek while a good cardio regimen would help a lot, the most important exercise perhaps is- squat.

https://journal7.files.wordpress.com/2010/02/evan-centopani-squat-wallpaper.jpg

Squats

Yes most toilets in Nepal are little more than a hole in the ground. Attempting bowel motions in such a posture will test muscles that you probably haven’t used since you were a toddler. Good luck and God Bless!!

http://blog.nepaladvisor.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/toilet_nepal.jpg

Logistics- Permits Required

TIMS Permit (USD 20 for Independent Trekkers, USD 10 for Organized Group Trekkers) and National Park Permit (NPR 3000 approx. USD 30). Both can be obtained at Nepal Tourism Board, Bhrikuti Mandap, Tel: +977-1-4256909, Website: http://welcomenepal.com/Make sure to take your passport and four passport size pictures.

Logistics- Weather

January and February are the coldest months in Nepal. Weather is generally clear but westerly disturbances will bring in a couple of bouts of snow and rainfall.See http://oiswww.eumetsat.org/IPPS/html/latestImages/EUMETSAT_MTP_IR115Color-southernAsia.jpg for latest satellite imagery.See http://www.mountain-forecast.com/maps/India for more maps. Accuweather is generally good too.

http://oiswww.eumetsat.org/IPPS/html/latestImages/EUMETSAT_MTP_IR115Color-southernAsia.jpg

Logistics- Telecommunication

There are two major telecom operators in Nepal: the semi-government Nepal Telecom Corporation and the privately owned Ncell. While Nepal Telecom has better coverage outside of urban areas, Ncell has invested heavily in the Everest region with one tower at Gorakshep itself. We recommend Ncell over NTC for the Everest Trek.

Routes- Tengboche in Tengboche Out (KTM to KTM: 15-16 days)

It is a bit strange but most itineraries for the Everest Base Camp trek come down the exact same route they go up. It is possible to add a little bit of a variety. We recommend going via Phortse on your way up to Base Camp and come down through Tengboche. The trail through Phortse is however a bit strenuous at a few places.

Route- Gokyo Lakes or Everest Base Camp??

The amazing lakes of Gokyo is in a different valley than the one Everest Base Camp is in and mostly people do one or the other. By crossing the Cho La (5,420m) it is possible to do both by extending the usual itinerary by a few days. This itinerary is however very weather dependent and a good guide is highly recommended. It will take about 18-19 days to complete this trek (Kathmandu to Kathmandu).

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9b/Gokyo_lake.jpg

Route- The Classic Everest Base Camp Trek from Jiri (21 days)

This is the route that trekkers and mountaineers took before commercial flights to Lukla began. This is also the trek that Ed Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing took on their way to the top of the world. Very few people however take this route these days and those who do take this route confess that the less crowded section between Lukla and Jiri was the best part of the entire trek.

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Safety- Acute Mountain Sickness- Preventive Medication??

In reaction to the scarcity of oxygen at high altitude, the human body increases RBC count in a process known as acclimatization. Help your body do its job by not increasing your sleep altitude by more than 500 meters above 3,000 meters and taking a rest day after 1,000 meters climb or every 3 days. Also research has shown that preventive use of Diamox (acetazolamide) to be beneficial for people who fly into Lukla. Dosage is 125mg twice daily, starting a day before ascent begins and continued until descent starts.http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2016/the-pre-travel-consultation/altitude-illness

http://zakazlekarstv.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/%D0%94%D0%B8%D0%B0%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%BA%D1%81-diamox.jpg

Safety- Beetroot Juice

One sign of successful acclimatization to altitude is that the blood vessels are able to deliver enough oxygen throughout the body. But normal blood vessel function depends on the body's ability to naturally produce a compound called nitric oxide. Drinking nitrate-rich beet juice helps improve blood vessel function at altitude by giving the body alternative building blocks to make nitric oxide.http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2015/10/151012083808.htm

http://i.huffpost.com/gen/2624330/images/o-BEETROOT-JUICE-facebook.jpg

Safety- Khumbu Cough

Surprising as it might sound, there is no consensus on the cause or treatment of this problem. Bronchial irritation due to the cold dry air perhaps has something to do with it. Breathing through the mouth is also thought to exacerbate the situation. The best way to avoid the Khumbu cough is to breathe humidified air by using a mask of some sort. A buff is great for this purpose. Candies or cough drops will help.

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qmIYTxEZ2Ms/UQlbd2TzOFI/AAAAAAAABf8/f2NfAoKcRu8/s1600/Kumbu+Cough4.jpg

Safety- Sunburn

At 5,000 meters above sea level the level of UV radiation goes up by about 70 percent. Also consider that 90 percent of UV can penetrate light cloud cover. Don’t skip on the sunscreen regimen: Half an hour before exposure in the morning and one again at lunch. SPF 30+ with UVA and UVB protection. Sun Hat.http://www.who.int/uv/uv_and_health/en/

http://images.cdn1.beautylish.com/11/05/26/ft_af14476620896a92117796a532a43a79.jpg

Safety- Snow Blindness

Snow and UV rays are a very bad combination and will take its toll. Make sure you wear sunglasses at high altitudes, even when it is cloudy. If you lost one because you didn’t buy a strap for it consider using your bag strap or yak hair to improvise. If that don’t work out either smear black paint like in the picture above.

Caravan- Eric Valli

Safety- HRA talk

The HRA has come a long way from its humble beginnings in 1973 to a fully equipped and efficiently run organization. The one thing that hasn’t changed is its mission to reduce casualties in the Nepal Himalayan. Go say Hi during their daily 3 pm lectures given by volunteer doctors. More than the facilities, the volunteers who man the post have got to be the biggest asset of the HRA. They come from all around the world to help the HRA and trekkers during the high season (Sep-Dec; Mar-May).

Earthquake Report

All Green!!!

Sherpas- Who is a Sherpa? What gives them such superhuman strength at high altitudes.

Sherpa is an ethnic group of Nepal with very close cultural affinities with Tibet. They came to the southern slopes of the Himalayas from Tibet since the 16th century. They are as hardy as they are savvy and as such are equally at home running a lodge in Namche or running an expedition at the South Col. And no Sherpa doesn’t mean a porter or trekking staff who pitches tents for you which is used that way too. Recent research has shown their unmatched physical capacity at high altitudes can be traced back to Denisovan genes. http://www.sfgate.com/science/article/High-altitude-gene-explains-Tibetans-Sherpas-5596384.php

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Kathmandu- Combatting Jet Lag

Forget about shining lights behind your knees. Simply force yourself to stay active outdoors. Take a swim perhaps or just sunbathe, you body clock will spring back to normal faster if you stay outdoors.

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Kathmandu- Flight to Lukla

Know that there are no seat numbers in your boarding pass. It is a sit where you want deal and it is kind of great to be on the left side of the plane while flying into Lukla while the mountain views will be to your right when you are flying out of Lukla.

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Lukla- Lukla Airport- NOT the world’s most dangerous airport

Sure it is scary and inclined at an angle and the pilot has to rev up the engine while landing and there are no second chances as there is a steep mountainside at the end. But no it is not the most dangerous airport in the world. It is a bit like calling bungee a dangerous sport and your safety cord in your flight to Lukla are the strict flight regulations and amazing pilots. Trust us, there are more dangerous fields in Nepal.

Lukla- Antics of Emil Wick

The advent of tourism in Nepal required pilots crazy and skillful enough to ply the treacherous passes and short airstrips of Nepal. Emil Wick was one of those crazy cats. His aviation exploits include landing downhill in Lukla, transverse landing in TIA with 40 knots crosswind, world’s highest landing and world’s highest chicken drop!! None of these exploits has been replicated since.http://www.flymicro.com/everest/index.cfm?page=docs/History/Emil_Wick.htm

http://www.flymicro.com/everest/docs/History/Emil_Wick_image001.jpg and http://www.pc-6.com/history/337-hbfan06.jpg

Lukla- Lukla Airport and Sherpa Dance

Sir Hillary writes in his book ‘Nothing Venture Nothing Win’ that he bought six acres of land in Lukla for Rs. 6,350 (USD 634) in 1964 to build an airstrip. After the land was ploughed and rocks removed, he had a fifty feet wide and twelve hundred feet long airstrip inclined at an angle of 12 degrees. The problem now was the loose soil which had to be hardened and that too without road rollers. His solution: Unlimited Supply of Rice Beer and Sherpa Dance!! Arm in arm, hundreds of half-dazed Sherpas stamped the soft ground with their feet, forward, backward and forward again. The result: Lukla airport was constructed in a record time of 4 weeks!!

http://tlm.com.np/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/Sherpa-Dance-they-walked-for-two-days-to-perform-here-and-will-be-walking-back-again.jpg

Jorsalle to Namche- Right of way to Porters and Yaks

Nepalese porters carry a rather heavy load and bring bent double, their vision is usually limited to the ground beneath their feet. Be patient if you find yourself behind the slow pace of one. Overtake them only when there is ample space.Nepalese mules and yaks find it disrespectful if you stand streamside rather than mountainside when they pass. Always stand clear on the mountainside when passing the loaded beasts.

Jorsalle- Get Over your Vertigo

If you have severe vertigo, a trek to Everest can be one dangerous adventure for you. Prepare for it mentally as the suspension bridges of Khumbu are nothing less exciting than the sky bridges found elsewhere. If you wish to conquer you vertigo in one go might we suggest the amazing bungee jump over the Bhote Koshi River. http://www.thelastresort.com.np/

Jorsalle- Everest View Point

The route from Jorsalle to Namche is steep as frack and doing this stretch after lunch isn’t exactly fun. Frequent stops are called for. Even if you are zooming past this stretch with long strides, make sure to take some time off to enjoy your first Everest view of the trek. The spot is marked by small refreshment stalls and restrooms, but has no signboard.

Namche- Acclimatization Stop

Welcome to the Heart of Khumbu. This village which is built on an ancient cirque is the largest of all Sherpa settlements. It is also the hub for two trails, one along the valley of the Dudh Koshi River to the east and another along the Bhote Koshi to the west. It is the first settlement to offer expansive views of the mountains, and make no mistake you are in the mountains now. At 3,460 meters you will feel the altitude. Hence, it is extremely important that you stay two nights here for acclimatization purposes.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5102/5626185532_56874c046a_b.jpg

Namche- Or Yaks and Naks

These large and powerful beasts are the largest of the bovids coming second only to Gaur which is found in lowlands of Nepal. They can be are tall as 7 feet at the shoulders and weigh up to a ton. Unfortunately, such sizes are rare in Nepal as there are no wild yaks left here. Most of the yak like animals you will see in Nepal are either domesticated versions or crossbreeds.A quick fact about yaks is that the terms yak is used exclusively for males, the females being referred to as naks. However, that shouldn’t stop you from relishing yak cheese, for it most certainly comes from the naks.

Namche- Dzopkyos

These are Yak and Tibetan Cattle cross-breeds. Most of the ‘yaks’ you see along the trails are actually dzopkyos. They can be told from the yaks by a slighter build and less shaggy hair. With less hair, they can survive as low as Lukla where a normal yak would have a very tough time. They also have a more even temperament and are hence more reliable as pack animals. The females also give more milk than a yak (or nak if you wish to go all grammar nazi with the Sherpa language).

Namche- Sagarmatha National Park HQ

The National Park Headquarter which also doubles as a visitor centre is located at a hilltop above Namche. It is also one of the best spots to view the mountains in Namche.It is also worth a visit for its museum which is a great introduction to the region. It is open from 8 am to 4 pm, except Saturdays and other public holidays.

Kyangjuma- Sherpa Food

Sherpa food is heavily based on potato and yak products. The bread you see is called rigikur and is made of potato. The other members in this picture are, Yak ghee, shyomar and chilly pickle in clockwise order. The thing with Sherpa food is since it is rather time consuming very few lodges offer it during the peak season in spring or autumn. You might need to build special rapport with the lodge owner if you want to try this. Be warned, shyomar which is sort of like liquid cheese can be a bit tough to digest.

Khumjung- and the Sacred Khumbila

An interesting fact comes to light if you climb the slopes to the north of the twin settlements of Khunde and Khumjung. As you look down at the valley, it is roughly shaped like a horse!! If you don’t get to see it for yourself, check it out in Google Earth. The head is towards the east end and the forelegs are where the Khumjung School is. Perhaps that is the reason why Khumbila is depicted riding a horse!!

Khumjung- Khumbila

The Khumbila is the most sacred mountain of the Sherpas and is represented anthropomorphically as a white horse rider. Even though the mountain is just 5,761 meter which is a dwarf by Himalayan standards, it nevertheless dominates the landscape around the heart of Sherpa settlements. It is said that Guru Padmasambhava himself meditated in a hermitage on its southern slopes for three days.Because of the reverence people have to this mountain, climbing is forbidden and there are many stories of disasters befalling those that have tried to do so illegally including Sir Hillary.

Khumjung- Sir Ed Hillary

Sir Hillary is in many ways the modern day patron saint of Khumbu. After becoming the first person to climb Everest with Tenzing Norgay he became an instant celebrity. He didn’t let stardom get to his humble nature and worked tirelessly towards what was perhaps the crowning glory of his career- the social upliftment of the Sherpas. Through his Himalayan Trust he helped build 30 schools, 2 hospitals, 12 medical clinics and 1 airport.

http://www.successmonks.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/edmund_hillary.jpg

Khumjung- Lama Seru

Pasang Sherpa more popularly known as Lama Seru is the reason why the trails in Everest are so good. He voluntarily started trail maintenance in the 60s and has been at it for over 50 years now. His only reward- personal satisfaction and donations. You will perhaps encounter him currently on the trail to Kyanjuma from Namche. Do not forget to contribute and receive a gentle nod from the 75 year old.

Khumjung- Yeti Scalp

The Yeti Scalp at the Khumjung Monastery is perhaps the most travelled serow hide in the world. But that was proved only after Sir Hillary took it for a joy ride round the world following his unsuccessful Yeti hunt. While it was shown not to be a yeti scalp, it did gather a lot of attention and audience, saving Sir Hillary from the humiliation of not having anything to show after spending a sizeable sum on a large expedition. More likely than not, the ‘yeti scalp’ at Khumjung and also at Pangboche is a headgear reserved for high lamas or for some esoteric Buddhist rituals. The association of the serow hide with the yeti perhaps started when a creative local met a gullible visitor or vice versa!!

http://www.indianaturewatch.net/images/album/photo/3404123474ef08992ae91f.jpg

Phortse- Snow Leopard

Consider yourself blessed by the mountain deities themselves, if you get a glimpse of this elusive, almost chimerical animal. They epitomize the grandeur and mystique of the Himalayas. They are however very rare. And if you don't get to see one, we hope the beautiful image provided by the Snow Leopard Conservancy comes as some consolation.The Gokyo Valley starting at Phortse is the best spot for this cats in the Everest Region.

Photo Courtesy: Snow Leopard Conservancy

Phortse- Musk Deer

We personally think it's about time biologists change the name of this guy to sabre-toothed deer. First, the name will instill fear rather than greed on people who are looking to poach these beauties for their musk glands. Second and more importantly, we think sabre-toothed deer is so much more badass for a name than musk deer. Jokes aside, the $45,000 that a kilogram of supposedly aphrodisiac musk fetches in the luxury markets of the world has brought these guys close to extinction. It is a shame that these guys have to pay the price for people who can't attract people on their own terms. Do your part. Say no to musk products.

Phortse- Himalaya Tahr

These hardy mountain goats make light of the impossibly precipitous cliffs they call home. While both the males and females are horny, the females being less so, it's the males that put the horns to good use during the breeding season in winter. The vicious fights that break out during such annual rut frequently result in casualties. The Everest region is perhaps home to one of the densest concentration of these animals and they are also very tame there. The trail section between Phortse and Pangboche and around Kyangjuma is especially good.

Phortse- Himalaya Monal or Danfe

This guy is the dandiest of the high altitude birds with its iridescent plumage. It is also the national bird of Nepal and loves to fill the morning air with its far carrying high pitched whistle. Like other high altitude birds, they are easier to see during the autumn and winter as they descend to lower altitudes then and also go about in large parties. While, these beauties are commonly found in a lot of places in Everest Region, the densest concentration is again around Phortse.

Tengboche- Mani Rimdu

This great festival is dedicated to the Lord of the Dance who closely resembles Avalokiteshvara, The Buddha of Compassion. While the Tengboche edition of this festival is now the most famous, it has its roots in a similar festival in Rongphu Monastery which in turn received it from The Mindrolling Monastery in Central Tibet.Date Predictions: 2016 Nov 14-16, 2017 Nov 4-6 and 2018 Oct 24-26. The dates might differ by a day.

http://snowleopardtrek.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/Mani-Rimdu-Trek-1.jpg

Tengboche- Skiing Monks

Yes monks love to have fun too!!

Pangboche- Yeti Hand Heist

The Pangboche hand received worldwide coverage through an NBC documentary in 1991. Soon after the hand was stolen. Local gossip relates how the villagers had a rough idea of who the thief could be, but couldn’t get themselves to ask the person to open his rucksack. That was because they didn’t want to commit a sin by offending the person, if he were innocent!!

http://www.mountainphotography.com/images/large/20141021-Khumjung-Yeti-Scalp-Keeper.jpg

Acclimatization Spot II- Dingboche

Current favorite. Larger with more facilities and lodges. Closer to Chukung. Less windier.

Acclimatization Spot II- Pheriche

Past favorite. Has a quaint air about it now. Can get pretty windy. Has the HRA Aid Post.

Dingboche- Beyul Khumbu

Beyuls are places that were sanctified by Guru Padmasambhava as places of refuge for the followers of Buddhism in times of crises. They are usually Himalayan valleys adjoining Tibet and are of stunning natural beauty where one can find equanimity and peace. It might come as no surprise that Khumbu is one of the beyuls in which man and nature has lived in perfect harmony for centuries. Anyone encountering the trusting Tahr or Snowcock in Khumbu will be able to see how this belief has translated into reality here.

Dingboche- Himalaya Griffon

A close pass by one of these giants with a wingspan of up to 10 feet is an amazing experience. A crazy fact about these birds is that in parts of Dolpo and Mustang, the dead are offered to them in an ancient rite of sky burial. While the rite seems surreal and spooky especially when the corpse is being chopped down, it makes perfect sense in a land where cremation is out of the question because wood is scarce and burial is ineffective because decomposition can take ages due to the dry air and general lack of micro-organisms.

Dingboche- Lammergeier

Lammergeier is a huge bird with a 10 feet wingspan, and despite its feathered head and slimmer build, is a vulture nevertheless. It can be told from the commoner Griffons by their wedge-shaped tail and slimmer wings. And the reason these vultures can afford to have feathered neck and head is because it doesn’t bother itself with the filthy entrails and messy muscles of a carcass. It feeds on what other vultures leave behind- the bones. Well not exactly bones, but bone marrow and to get at it, it takes the bones for a joyride and breaks them by dropping it on rocks below.

Gorakshep- Did Sir Ed Hillary actually climb Mt. Everest??

There is no direct photographic evidence that Sir Edmund Hillary was at the summit of Mt Everest. All the iconic photographs of the expedition from the top has Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in different postures. The reason: Cameras weren’t always as friendly as they are now and back then Tenzing didn’t know how to operate a camera!!

http://www.mountainsoftravelphotos.com/ReferenceImagesF/Everest%20First%20Ascent%20-%20Sir%20Edmund%20Hillary%20Iconic%20Photo%20Of%20Tenzing%20Norgay%20On%20Everest%20Summit%20May%2029%201953.jpg

Gorakshep- Another tall tale from the mountains, Geese over Everest.

While having some semblance of truth, they are a bit exaggerated. No they do not fly over Everest, but they do fly as high as 6,500m. The flying above Everest tale could be an exception or just apocryphal. But again 6,500m is no small feat and they do cross the Himalaya during their annual migration from Tibet to India in one long day, sometimes flying at such altitudes for up to 10 hours non-stop. http://barheadedgoose.bangor.ac.uk/about.php.en

Gorakshep- If you are feeling low and cold there, think again!!

Shigeo Osawa, was a regular winter trekker in Khumbu. Those who have dealt with him describe him as ever cheerful and brimming with life. He first came in 1980 when he was 56 years old and did the Everest Base Camp Trek every year from then on till 2008 to do one thing: dive into the ice cold Gorakshep Lake in 1 January!!! Look around the lodges along the trail, some of them have boards that show the list of his exploits.

Everest Base Camp- There is a the trekker’s Base Camp.https://devinsabbatical.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1020667.jpg

And there is the real Everest Base Camp.

Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon

But you cannot see Everest from Everest Base Camp!!!!

There are awesome views of the dangerous Khumbu Icefall though.

To See Everest you need to climb up to Kalapatthar.Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon

As you enjoy the views of Mount Everest from Kalapatthar take some time to contemplate why despite being such accomplished mountaineers, Sherpas aren’t as recognized as their western counterparts. While most insiders agree that the whole Everest scene would be impossible without the Sherpas and think they deserve more credit than they get, in popular imagination they are still a little more than hired hands.

Tenzing-Hillary Everest Marathon

On a lighter side there is a joke that fame eludes the Sherpas because every Sherpa mountaineer is either a Pasang or a Dawa. And when so many people share the exact same name how can fame ever come to them? If all Americans were called John Smith, it would simply be impossible to keep track of the weirdo who has a weird hairdo and contemplates building a wall between Mexico and United States. Which Smith was that again?? Jokes aside, there is a reason why there are such limited names in Sherpa country. Sherpas are named after a day they are born. So someone born on a Sunday is called Nima while Dawa is someone born on a Monday. Pasang btw is for Friday.

http://mteverestcafe.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/look-at-me.jpg

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