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Vacation
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Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island
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Quality ServiceQuality ServiceQuality ServiceQuality Service
FamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamilyFamily
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Production teamManaging EditorCaroline TaylorConsulting Editor Jeremy TaylorAssistant Editors Bridget van Dongen, Desirée SeebaranEditorial & Design Assistant Marissa RodriguezDesign & layout Bridget van Dongen, Kevon WebsterSales Denise Chin Production Joanne Mendes, Jacqueline SmithGeneral Manager Halcyon SalazarCover Our national bird, the scarlet ibis. Photo by G LalsinghPrinters Caribbean Print Technologies
A publication of Media & Editorial Projects Ltd. (MEP)6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of Spain, Trinidad & TobagoT: (868) 622-3821 / 5813 / 6138 F: (868) 628-0639 E: [email protected] W: discovertnt.com
Connect with us online on:
facebook.com/discovertnt
twitter.com/meppublishers
Blog: meppublishers.com
© 2013 Media & Editorial Projects (MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form whatsoever without the prior written consent of the publisher.
ContentsWelcome 3
About Trinidad & TobagoHow to get here 6Travel tips 7Out and about 8T&T in a nutshell 11World-class Trinbagonians 12Time capsule: how did we get here? 13What’s going on? Festivals and events in 2013 14Doing business with T&T 28
T&T SpecialitiesArts & culture: rhythm of a people 32Nature’s bounty: turtles, diving & hiking 36The shopping challenge 40Play hard: the sporting life 44Tying the knot 49
In TrinidadWhere to stay? 50Dining out 60Fieldwork: where to go, what to see? 66Take a “wine” 76Liming on the avenue 80I want to buy a house here 84Beach bumming in Trinidad 85
In TobagoWhere to stay? 90Owning your piece of paradise 97Tobago by night: food, drink and play 98Tobago by day: where to go, what to see? 100Life’s a beach 108
MapsTrinidad 116Port of Spain 118Northeast Trinidad 120Northwest Trinidad 121Central Trinidad 122
San Fernando 124South Trinidad 126Tobago 127Scarborough 128
Index 129
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WelcomeIf you’re visiting Trinidad & Tobago (T&T), or planning
to, you’ve made a good decision – congratulations! Discover Trinidad & Tobago is here to help you
make the most of a visit, no matter what your priority is – baking on a picture-perfect beach, diving in clear blue water, experiencing the frenzy of Carnival, or patiently watching the turtles nesting on the coast.
Our two islands are very different in character. Tobago is quiet, peaceful, blessed with wonderful beaches and waters; Trinidad is larger, faster-paced, more industrialised, festive and celebratory. Two different experiences to immerse yourself in. Or of course you can have both.
How to use this guidep The first section of Discover gives you the hard facts
you’ll need to understand our country and to get around (pages 6-31)
p The second section contains snapshots of some aspects of national life – arts and entertainment, shopping, sport, the environment (pages 32–49)
p The third section zooms in on Trinidad, to help you decide where to stay, how to navigate the island’s food and restaurants, the things to see and places to visit, the Carnival, the beaches, and after-dark entertainment and diversions (pages 50–87)
p The fourth section does the same for Tobago (pages 88–115)p At the back of the book you’ll find detailed maps of
both islands and the main urban centres, showing the location of places mentioned in the text (pages 116–132), and an index to help you navigate the magazine
About Discoverp Published regularly since 1991, Discover Trinidad
& Tobago appears towards the end of each year, in time to debut at the annual World Travel Market in London
p It is distributed free to dozens of local outlets in both islands, and is used for tourism marketing
p It is available online at discovertnt.com, where you’ll also find additional material and updates to the current issue
p You can also follow us on Facebook at facebook.com/discovertnt and Twitter @meppublishers
Pink poui trees at sunrise
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Standards & feedbackp The tourism authorities run an annual
inspection programme called Trinidad & Tobago Tourism Industry Certification (TTTIC) (see tdc.co.tt/p_tttic.htm). A special TTTIC logo is used to identify approved hotels and tourism operators
p Advertising in Discover is open to anybody, but the publication of an advertisement does not imply editorial endorsement, quality assurance, or TTTIC approval
p Every effort is made to ensure that information is correct at press time. But things change swiftly, so we can make no guarantees about ongoing accuracy
Experience the amazing sights and sounds of Trinidad’s
Carnival or let the beauty of Tobago’s romance and serenity
leave you breathless. It all happens right here…
Email: Trinidad: [email protected]; Tobago: [email protected]: [email protected]; United States: [email protected]: [email protected]; United Kingdom: [email protected]: [email protected]; India: [email protected]
Visit us @www.gotrinidadandtobago.com • Contact us at: (868) 675 7034/669 5196Email: Trinidad: [email protected]; Tobago: [email protected]: [email protected]; United States: [email protected]: [email protected]; United Kingdom: [email protected]: [email protected]; India: [email protected]
Visit us @www.gotrinidadandtobago.com • Contact us at: (868) 675 7034/669 5196
and mydream wedding...
And swam in thewaters of life...
Today I floatedover the streets...
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How to get hereScheduled carriers p Aeropostal, American Airlines, Avior, British Airways,
Caribbean Airlines, Condor, Continental, Copa, LIAT, Monarch, Surinam Airways, Virgin Atlantic
p Check travel agents for current charter flightsTIP: Fly carbon neutral: most airlines allow you to offset carbon dioxide emissions from your flight
Major international gateways p Miami, Ft. Lauderdale, New York, Toronto, London
Airports p Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles from
Port of Spain)p Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7 miles
from Scarborough)
entering t&tp You will need to show a passport valid for three
months beyond your intended stay p Non-residents must have documentation for
return or onward travel and a local addressp Visas are generally not required for visits up to
30 days, but double-check with your airline or travel agent before leaving
Arriving by airUnless you are being met privately, take an authorised taxi from the airport to your destination, confirming the fare in advance (a list of fares is displayed in the arrivals area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher. Authorised private taxis have licence plates beginning with “H” (for “Hire”), and are not metered.
Arriving by sea (yachts & sailing boats)p Arriving yachts should have a clearance certificate from the last port of call, and the vessel’s
registration certificate (or authorisation for use) p In Trinidad, check in with Customs & Immigration at CrewsInn in Chaguaramasp In Tobago, check in with Customs & Immigration in Scarborough or Charlottevillep Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub of yachting activity, with sheltered anchorage maintained by the
Yachting Association and strings of maintenance and repair yards, marinas and essential servicesp There are no official anchorage sites in Tobago, but Mount Irvine Bay, Grafton Beach, Store Bay and
Englishman’s Bay are popular. On the southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a good anchorage and fuelling point
Cruise shipsp Several cruise lines visit
Trinidad & Tobago; most depart from Miami between November and April
p They include Fred Olsen, Hapag-Lloyd, Holland America, Oceania, P&O, Princess, Saga Travel, Seabourn, Sea Dream, Silversea and Thomson
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Travel tipsMoney mattersp Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit cards are routinely
usedp Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1=
approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate)p Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT
(value added tax) on most goods and services
Mediap Press: there are three daily national newspapers (Express,
Guardian and Newsday), several weeklies and one tri-weekly; Tobago is served by the Tobago News
p Radio: over 30 FM stations, two AM stationsp Television: 12 local stations (some are available only via
cable or on one island); cable and satellite; most hotels and guesthouses provide foreign cable channels
Drivingp Driving is on the left. Seatbelts are required by law p Speed limits: Trinidad 80kph (50mph) on highways, 55kph
(34mph) in settled areas; Tobago 50kph (32mph)p Driving permits: visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a
valid foreign/international licence
Utilitiesp Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hzp Water: tap water is safe to drink (boil to be doubly sure);
bottled water is widely availablep Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx,
DHL, UPS and others provide courier service
Land of the hummingbirdTrinidad’s Amerindian name was Iere, which translates as “land of the hummingbird”. Or maybe it simply meant “island”. Whichever it is, more than 20 species of these magnificent tiny birds are found in Trinidad.
Telecommunications p Country phone code: 868p Landline telephones: provided by Telecommunications
Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT) and FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards are available
p Mobile telephones: bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks; prepaid SIM cards are available for unlocked phones
neaL young
Public wi-fip In Trinidad, Piarco Airport
and Rituals coffee shops provide public wi-fi
p TSTT’s BZone offers 4G wi-fi hotspots at the Chaguaramas Boardwalk, Maracas Bay, the Trinidad Ferry Terminal, Ariapita Avenue, the Cruise Ship Complex, West Mall, Grand Bazaar, Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall and Gulf City Mall
p In Tobago, Bzone offers wi-fi at the Ferry Terminal, Store Bay, Pigeon Point, and Gulf City Mall (Lowlands)
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Out and aboutp There are basically five ways of getting around in Trinidad & Tobago: private taxis; public taxis
and maxi-taxis (both plying specific routes); buses; a rented car; or with a tour operatorp Bicycles are hardly ever used except for sports: roads are generally unsafe for cyclistsp There are ferries between Trinidad and Tobago, and between Port of Spain and San Fernandop 20-minute flights between Trinidad and Tobago operate several times a day
Private taxisp Available at the airports
and the larger hotels; otherwise summoned by phone
Public taxisp “Route taxis” (cars registered as taxis, bearing “H” plates)
work specific routes, picking up and dropping off passengers anywhere along the way
p They have designated stands in Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas and other main towns
p Maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat mini-buses) operate in the same way, mostly connecting urban centres (e.g. Port of Spain to San Fernando) or servicing suburbs (e.g. Port of Spain to Chaguaramas, Diego Martin, Petit Valley, Maraval, St Ann’s, Cascade)
p Maxi-taxis carry brightly-coloured bands according to their area:Black: San Fernando–Princes Town, with connection to MayaroBlue: TobagoBrown: San Fernando–La Romaine–Siparia–Point Fortin
Green: Port of Spain (City Gate)–Curepe–Chaguanas (lower Southern Main Road southbound; Eleanor Street northbound)–San Fernando (King’s Wharf)Red: Port of Spain–Arima, connections to Blanchisseuse, and to Matelot via Sangre Grande
Yellow: Port of Spain–Diego Martin–Chaguaramas
Busesp Buses operate from Port
of Spain (City Gate) to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis, and from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando (King’s Wharf) and Scarborough (Sangster’s Hill)
p Check the Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC) at ptsc.co.tt for current schedules and fares
Car rentals & tour operatorsLocal and international rental companies operate in both islands and at both airports See Where to go, what to see under both Tobago and Trinidad, or check the Yellow Pages for good places to start.
Bush BathSuffering from a string of colds,
minor accidents and general bad luck? You may be told to take a bush bath, which is a special brew of potent herbs and plants (depending on what’s wrong
with you) steeped in water. It is said to speed your recovery, wash
off the “maljo” (bad luck, curses, whatever), and bring good fortune.
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FerriesTrinidad/Tobagop Daily inter-island car and passenger ferry service between Port of Spain and Scarborough is
operated by the Port Authority of Trinidad & Tobago (patnt.com)p The T&T Express and T&T Spirit do the trip in about two and a half hours each wayp Fares: TT$100 return; children 3–11 years half price; children under three and senior citizens (65
and over) travel free (but must present ID) p Tickets can be bought from the ferry terminals, and from some TT Post offices and travel agenciesp Passenger vehicle charge is TT$600p You can find the ferry schedule at ttitferry.com
Port of Spain/San Fernandop The ferry water taxi service between Trinidad’s two cities is operated by the National
Infrastructure Development Company (nidco.co.tt)p The trip takes about 45 minutes each wayp TT$15 one-way (at press time – check website for current rates). Infants under the age of one
travel free; senior citizens (65 and over) travel free on off-peak sailings
Trinidad/Venezuelap Pier 1 in Chaguaramas operates a weekly ferry on Wednesdays
to Venezuela for TT$1,380 round-trip plus departure tax. Call 634-4426 for information
Airbridgep Caribbean Airlines operates several flights a day between
Trinidad and Tobago (625-7200, caribbean-airlines.com)p Both airports have separate departure/arrival areas for
airbridge passengers
The ferry T&T Spirit arrives in Scarborough
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our national flagRed (for fire, vitality of the sun); white (for water, purity and the power of the ocean); black (for the earth, one people united on the islands’ soil).
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SafetyLike much of the planet, there is crime in Trinidad & Tobago, and driving habits can be … eccentric. Some practical tips:
On the roadp Drive with care; practise defensive drivingp Always lock your vehiclep If you suspect you are being followed, raise an alarm and head to the nearest police station p Do not leave car windows down when stopping, especially at night
Propertyp Leave valuables (jewellery, money, passports, credit cards, etc.) at home or well concealedp Lock your room/house doorp Keep windows closed at night and when you go outp Do not wear extravagant jewelleryp Do not leave handbags or wallets lying aroundp Do not leave laptop computers or other valuables in your carp Do not use an ABM if you sense someone suspicious nearby; if your card gets stuck, call the bank
immediately
Personal securityp Move in company whenever possiblep Always be aware of your surroundingsp Do not venture into deserted or unfamiliar areas alonep Do not engage in any altercations with strangers
emergenciesp Ambulance (public hospitals): 811p EMS (emergency medical services):
624-4343 (north Trinidad), 653-4343 (south/central Trinidad), 639-4444 (Tobago)
p Hyperbaric medical facility (decompression chamber, Roxborough, Tobago): 660-4369
p Fire: 990 p Office of Disaster Preparedness:
640-1285 (Trinidad), 660-7489 (Tobago)
p Police: in Trinidad, 999 or 555; in Tobago, 639-2520 or 639-5590
Contactsp Division of Tourism, Tobago: 639-2125,
visittobago.gov.ttp Immigration Division: 623-6569 (Trinidad),
639-2681 (Tobago), nationalsecurity.gov.tt (click on Divisions and Agencies)
p Tobago House of Assembly: 639-3421, tha.gov.tt
p Tourism Development Company: 675-7034, tdc.co.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.com
p Tourist information offices: 639-0509 (ANR Robinson Airport, Tobago); 635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago); 669-5196 (Piarco Airport, Trinidad)
p Trinidad & Tobago government online:ttconnect.gov.tt
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T&T in a nutshellCapital p National capital: Port of Spain p Tobago capital: Scarborough
Climate p Tropicalp Dry season from January to May; wet season from June to
December p The islands are just south of the main hurricane beltp Temperature range: 72–95°F (22–35°C); average 83°F (29°C)
Highest pointsp Trinidad: El Cerro del Aripo (940m/3,085ft)p Tobago: Main Ridge (549m/1,860ft)
Location & coordinatesp 11°N, 61°Wp Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21 miles) apartp Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from Venezuela at the nearest
point
Sizep Trinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864
sq miles); 105 x 80km (65 x 50 miles)
p Tobago: 300km2 (116 sq miles); 48 x 16km (30 x 10 miles)
Time zonep Atlantic Standard Time
year-round (GMT/UTC -4, EST +1)
Governmentp Trinidad & Tobago is a parliamentary democracy;
elections have been held regularly since self-government in 1956
p President: George Maxwell Richardsp Prime Minister: Kamla Persad-Bissessarp Ruling party: the People’s Partnership (a four-party
coalition) p Official opposition party: People’s National Movement p Opposition leader: Dr Keith Rowley
Official language p English
Populationp 1.2 million (2010 census)p 40% are of Indian descent,
37.5% of African descent, 21.7% mixed
p 26% are Roman Catholic, 31.6% are Christians of other denominations (including Anglican), 22.5% are Hindu, 5.8% are Muslim
p Port of Spain has a population of 45,000; metropolitan areas combined nearly 270,000 people; Tobago has a population of 50,000 (Scarborough 17,000 people)
our national anthemForged from the love of liberty in the fires of hope and prayer With boundless faith in our destiny we solemnly declare: Side by side we stand, islands of the blue Caribbean SeaThis, our native land, we pledge our lives to thee.Here every creed and race finds an equal place, and may God bless our Nation (x2)
Patrick Castagne, 1962
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CourteSy heather headLey
World-class Trinbagoniansp Ato Boldon: four-time
Olympic medallist (2 silver, 2 bronze for 100m and 200m, 1996 and 2000), and 200m World Championship gold medallist (1997). A frequent athletics commentator for the US network, NBC
p George Bovell III: our first Olympic medallist in swimming: bronze in 200m individual medley (2004)
p Janelle “Penny” Commissiong: Miss Universe 1977, the first black woman to win the title
p Hasely Crawford: our first Olympic gold medallist, winning the men’s 100m (1976)
p Wendy Fitzwilliam: Miss Universe 1998 (the second black woman to win the title)
p Heather Headley: Trinidad-born Tony Award- and Grammy-winning singer and actress (Aida, The Bodyguard)
p Geoffrey Holder: Trinidad-born, Tony Award winner (1975), theatre and film actor, dancer, painter, director, and designer. Best known on film for roles in Dr. Dolittle (1967) and Annie (1982)
p CLR James (1901–1989): prolific writer, historian, cultural and political figure, leading voice in the Pan-Africanist movement
p Giselle La Ronde: Miss World 1986 (beating American actress Halle Berry into sixth place)
p Brian Lara: multiple record-breaking cricketer with two Test records (375 not out in 1994 and 400 not out in 2004); highest first class score (501 not out, 1994); leading run scorer in Test cricket
p Peter Minshall: Carnival designer, multiple winner of Band of the Year titles, winner of T&T’s first Emmy Award for costuming (opening ceremony, 2002 Winter Olympics)
p Nicki Minaj: Trinidad-born, US-based Platinum hip-hop star. The only artist to have seven singles on the Billboard Hot 100 at the same time, and the first female artist to be included in MTV’s Annual Hottest MC List
p VS (Sir Vidia) Naipaul: Trinidad-born writer, knighted (1990), Nobel Prize for Literature (2000)
p Claude Noel: from Roxborough, Tobago, our first boxing World Champion (WBA World Lightweight title, 1981)
p Billy Ocean: born Leslie Charles in Trinidad, international pop star with hits like “Caribbean Queen” (1984)
p Arthur NR Robinson: former President and Prime Minister, launched UN General Assembly resolution to establish the International Criminal Court
p Keshorn Walcott: our second Olympic gold medallist (javelin 2012), the youngest ever winner of that event and the first non-European to win it in 60 years
p Dr Eric Williams (1911–81): Caribbean historian and our first Chief Minister and Prime Minister, serving from 1956 until his death in 1981
p Dwight Yorke: Tobago-born football star and leading striker (Manchester United, Aston Villa). A key player in Trinidad & Tobago’s World Cup campaign in 2006 – he captained the national team to an impressive debut at the World Cup finals in Germany (T&T was the smallest country ever to qualify)
our coat of armsFeatures the national birds – scarlet ibis (Trinidad) and cocrico (Tobago) – and the hummingbird; the three ships of Columbus and the peaks of the Trinity Hills; the fruited coconut palm native to Tobago; and the national motto, “Together we aspire, together we achieve”.
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How did we get here?Pre-Columbian era
Both islands are intermittently joined to South America; both are settled by Amerindians moving north from the South American coast from around 5000 BC.
Separate colonies
Trinidad1498 Christopher Columbus lands in Trinidad
on 31 July, claims the island for Spain and names it after the Holy Trinity
1757 Port of Spain becomes Trinidad’s capital1797 Trinidad has been a neglected Spanish
colony for nearly 300 years; the Amerindians have been decimated; now French Catholic planters have started to arrive, African slaves are being imported, and swift development is under way
1797 Trinidad is captured by the British1838 The end of slavery in the British empire;
labour recruited from other islands, China, Portugal, Lebanon, Syria
1845 Britain starts importing indentured labourers from India – 144,000 arrive by 1917
1857 The first oil well drilled near the Pitch Lake1858 The British start trying to suppress Carnival
Tobago1498 Leaving the Gulf of Paria, Columbus sights
Tobago and names it Magdalena1627 European powers (and pirates) will
squabble over Tobago till the late 18th century
1768 First Assembly established; Scarborough becomes the capital
1776 First forest reserve in the western hemisphere is designated in Tobago
1781 French seize Tobago and make it a sugar colony
1814 Tobago ceded to Britain under Treaty of Paris
1838 The end of slavery in the British empire1884 The sugar industry collapses1889 Tobago comes under Trinidad control; its
Assembly is disbanded
one nation1898 Tobago is merged with
Trinidad as one country1908 Commercial oil
production begins in Trinidad
1912 First commercial calypso recording (New York)
1925 The first national elections (limited franchise)
1930s The first steelpans are evolving
1940 National airline BWIA commences operations
1956 Internal self-government 1960 Trinidad campus
of University of the West Indies (UWI) established
1962 Independence from Britain
1963 Hurricane Flora devastates Tobago
1970 “Black Power” uprising in Trinidad
1976 T&T becomes a republic within the Commonwealth
1980 Tobago House of Assembly restored
1990 Unsuccessful coup attempt by Afro-Islamist group Jamaat al Muslimeen
2007 Caribbean Airlines replaces BWIA as national carrier (buys Air Jamaica in 2010)
2010 New coalition government under first female Prime Minister
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What’s going on?Festivals and events 2013
Note: under each month, events are listed in the following order and colour coded: (a) national events with dates, (b) national events with no dates, (c) Tobago events with or without dates, (d) Trinidad events with or without dates. Public holidays are in red
Januaryp 1: New Year’s Day (public holiday) p Carnival season beginsp Sailing season beginsp Tobago: harvest festivals in
Pembroke, Parlatuvier, Spring Garden, Plymouth
p Tobago: Carnival Caravan
Februaryp Carnival countdown beginsp 10: Chinese New Year (year of the
snake) p 11–12: Carnival Monday and
Tuesday p Carnival cool-downsp Tobago: harvest festivals in Hope,
Adelphi, Buccoo, Franklyn, Bon Accord
p Tobago: Carnival Regatta p Trinidad: Chutney Soca Monarch
finals p Trinidad, 8: Soca Monarch finals p Trinidad, 9: Panorama finalsp Trinidad, 10: Dimanche Gras
Carnival in tobagoCarnival frenzy is centred on Trinidad: Tobago enjoys a more laid-back season focusing on theatrical and folk elements. There’s traditional “mud mas”, and “pretty mas” with 30-odd costumed bands. Staple events: Carnival Caravan, Soca Spree, Junior Carnival (Roxborough), Soca Under the Samaan Tree, Tobago House of Assembly’s Interdepartmental Queen and Calypso Show, Roxborough Afro Queen, Windward Calypso Show.
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our national flowerThe chaconia (“wild poinsettia” or “pride of Trinidad & Tobago”), a flaming red forest flower. There is a push to have the double chaconia declared the national flower as it is unique to Trinidad and is a more spectacular flower than the single bract blossom. In fact, all cultivations (worldwide) of the double chaconia can be traced back to one single plant which was discovered alongside the Blanchisseuse road in 1957.
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Phagwa (holi)The Hindu spring festival features traditional folksongs (chowtals), dholak drums, and liberal splashings of the colourful vegetable dyes known as abir (or abeer). The Children’s Phagwa celebration at Tunapuna Hindu School is especially popular.
Marchp Turtle nesting season beginsp 29: Good Friday (public holiday)p 30: Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day (public
holiday) p 31: Easter Sundayp Tobago: harvest festivals in Mount St George, Mason Hall,
Roxborough, Bon Accord p Tobago, 24: Missionary Love Feast in Moriahp Tobago: International Game Fishing Tournamentp Trinidad & Tobago Golf Openp Trinidad, 16: Jazz Artists on the Greens (St Augustine)p Trinidad, 27: Phagwa (Holi)
ShoutersThe Spiritual Shouter Baptists draw on both African and Christian spiritual traditions. They were banned for 34 years during the colonial era (perhaps all that hand-clapping, bell-ringing, drum-beating and chanting unnerved the authorities). Liberation Day on 30 March commemorates the lifting of the ban in 1951.
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Aprilp 1: Easter Monday (public holiday) p Tobago, 20–28: Tobago Jazz Experiencep Tobago: Harvest Festival in
Goodwoodp Trinidad: Pan in the 21st Centuryp Trinidad, 25–28: Bocas Lit Fest, the
Trinidad & Tobago Literary Festival (of which we are a proud sponsor)
p Trinidad, 30: Point Fortin Borough Day, a full week of J’ouvert, mas, pan and parties
easterApart from its religious significance, the long Easter weekend involves hot cross buns, horse racing at the Santa Rosa track in Arima (Trinidad), and goat and crab races in Tobago – Mount Pleasant on Monday, Buccoo on Tuesday. Started almost 80 years ago, racing goats was Tobago’s answer to the colonial tradition of racing horses. There are stables for the goats, trainers, live commentators, and jockeys who run alongside their prized animals, whips in hand.
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JazzThe Tobago Jazz Experience at Pigeon Point showcases calypso, soca, chutney and Latin as well as jazz. Events are spread across the island. Previous headliners have included Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, Sting, George Benson and Diana Ross.
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Mayp 30: Indian Arrival Day (public holiday)p Tobago Harvest Festivals in Whim, Delaford, Belle
Garden, Mason Hallp Tobago: Rainbow Cup International Triathlon p Tobago: Maypole Festivalp Trinidad, 8: La Divina Pastora (Siparia)
La divina PastoraA Catholic feast and procession in which Hindus join. The wooden statue of a black Virgin Mary, “the Divine Shepherdess”, decorated with flowers and dressed in white, is processed through the streets. Hindus revere the same statue as Siparee Kay Mai.
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indian arrival dayMarks the landing of the first Indian indentured workers in Trinidad in 1845, after the abolition of slavery. Some communities re-enact the event; outstanding members of the Indo-Trinidadian community are recognised; there is music and dancing. The Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas is a focal point.
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Junep 3: Corpus Christi (public holiday) p 19: Labour Day (public holiday): trade union marches
and rally in Fyzabad p 29: St Peter’s Day Fisherman’s Festival p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Lambeau, Bloody Bay,
Roxboroughp Tobago: Junior Tobago Heritage Festivalp Tobago: Culinary Festival, Pigeon Point Heritage Parkp Trinidad: We Beat Festival (St James: vintage calypso,
talent shows, steelband music and parade)p Trinidad: Ganga Dhaara River Festival, Blanchisseuse
(honours the descent of India’s sacred River Ganges)p Trinidad, 12–15: Trade & Investment Convention
Corpus ChristiIn honour of the sacramental Eucharist, Roman Catholics process through Port of Spain in a public profession of faith, a practice dating back to Spanish colonial days. For many, it is a propitious day for planting crops, since rain is supposed to fall (and often does).
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the tobago heritage festivalAims to preserve the cultural traditions of Tobago. Various villages present their own dances, food and customs, including the “Old-time Tobago Wedding” in Moriah, “Folk Tales and Superstitions” in Golden Lane, and “Games We Used to Play”.
Julyp 2014 Carnival band launches ( July–September)p Tobago: Charlotteville Fisherman’s Fest p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Castara and Black Rockp Tobago: Prime Minister’s Charity Golf Classic p Tobago: Underwater Carnivalp Tobago: Tobago Gamesp Tobago, 12 July–1 August: Tobago Heritage Festival p Tobago, 25–28: Great Fête Weekend (five-day beach party
at Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Mt Irvine)p Trinidad: Tourism Park (displays, tours, live
entertainment, hosted by the Tourism Development Company)
p Trinidad: Jazz on the Hill (San Fernando)p Trinidad: J’ouvert in July p Trinidad: Steelpan Music Festival
tobago underwater CarnivalA week-long dive festival, with daily diving excursions, underwater photography seminars hosted by industry professionals, marine biology, equipment care, and fish identification. Plus a Discover Scuba initiative for kids and non-divers.
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Printer’s Ad
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emancipation dayMarks the end of slavery in the British empire in 1838. The Lidj Yasu Omowale Emancipation Village in Port of Spain features lectures, exhibitions of African art, a trade exposition and live entertainment. There is a street procession – canboulay or kanbulé – through the streets of Port of Spain.
Independence Day 2012: Trinidad & Tobago celebrated 50 years of Independence
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Augustp 1: Emancipation Day (public holiday)p 8: Eid-ul-Fitr (public holiday) p The Carib Great Race (84-mile speedboat race from Trinidad to Tobago, with big beach party)p Best Village Competition begins (continues through November)p 31: Independence Day (public holiday): marks Trinidad & Tobago’s independence from Britain in
1962: parade, national awards, fireworks, huge concerts, Cycling Classicp Tobago: Castara Fisherman’s Fête p Tobago: Harvest Festival in Speysidep Tobago: Muhtadi International Drumming Festival (highlights different cultures around the call
of the drums)p Trinidad: Arima Borough Day ( J’ouvert, steel pan, calypso, parties for Arima’s anniversary)p Trinidad: Osun River Festival (Orisa devotees celebrate the goddess of love, fertility and inland
waters) p Trinidad: Santa Rosa Festival, Arima
Santa rosa festivalMonth-long Amerindian/Catholic festival commemorating the death of St Rose de Lima, the Roman Catholic patron saint of the “new world”. It begins with the firing of a cannon on 1 August, from Calvary Hill, and ends after the feast day of St Rose on 23 August. A statue of Santa Rosa is carried through the streets in a procession of Trinidad’s Carib peoples, including the Carib Queen, and Roman Catholics.
eid-ul-fitrThe Muslim festival marking the end of the holy month of Ramadan (the ninth month of the Muslim year, a period of prayer and fasting from dawn to dusk). Morning communal worship in mosques and large open spaces; alms giving and Salat, when people visit family and friends exchanging gifts and sweets. Sawine, a milk-based vermicelli dessert, is a holiday favourite.
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September p 18 September–1 October: trinidad+tobago film festival p 24: Republic Day (public holiday)p Beacon Cycling Seriesp Tobago: International Cycling Classicp Tobago: Tobago Fest (parties, street parade, J’ouvert)p Tobago: International Gospel Festivalp Trinidad: Maracas Open Water Swim Classicp Trinidad: Derby Horse Racing Classic, Arimap Trinidad: Panyard Sessionsp Trinidad: Parang season begins (continues through
December) p Trinidad: San Fernando Jazz Festival
trinidad+tobago film festivalThe second largest film festival in the region showcases Caribbean and diaspora drama, documentary, shorts and animated films, with workshops and educational programmes.
republic day In 1976 Trinidad & Tobago adopted a new republican constitution, under which a President replaced the British Queen as head of state. Events include the Hyundai Open Water Classic at Maracas Bay (Trinidad) and the Republic Day Cycling Challenge and 5K Fun Run.
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Octoberp Taste T&T (grassroots festival with community cooking
competitions, plus an international event where the country’s best chefs demonstrate T&T’s haute cuisine)
p National Tourism Weekp Tobago: Blue Food Festival, L’Anse Fourmi/Bloody Bay
recreation ground p Tobago: Harvest Festival in Patience Hillp Trinidad, 8–14: Amerindian Heritage Day (descendants
of First Peoples from around the region gather for a smoke ceremony and street procession in Arima)
p Trinidad: Coast-2-Coast Adventure Racep Trinidad: European Film Festival p Trinidad: Ramleela Festivalp Trinidad: Steelpan & Jazz Festival
tobago’s Blue food festivalPromotes local root crops, especially dasheen, which can turn varying shades of blue and indigo when cooked. The expression “blue food” has become a catch-all name for all root crops, including sweet potato, cassava and yam. A blue food cooking competition is the highlight of the event. Skilled cooks vie for prizes for creating fine dishes from dasheen: bread, cookies, lasagne, even ice cream. There’s a cultural show, a mini zoo, and sometimes a queen show.
ramleelaIn this impressive nine-day festival preceding Divali, parts of Hindu scripture concerning the life of Lord Rama are re-enacted with music and dance and an epic finale (see November). The best-known celebrations are in Couva and Felicity, in central Trinidad.
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Novemberp 3: Divali (public holiday)p Best Village competition finals (villages compete in various aspects of folk tradition, including
food, storytelling, Carnival, dance, music, theatre, and the selection of a Best Village Queen, “La Reine Rivé”)
p Tobago: Harvest Festivals in Plymouth, Black Rock, Les Coteaux, Moriah, Scarborough, Montgomery
p Tobago: Scarborough Cup Golf Tournamentp Tobago: Christmas Caravanp Trinidad: Pan is Beautiful
divali Hindu festival that honours Mother Lakshmi (goddess of light, beauty, riches and love) and celebrates the return of Lord Rama from exile. Thousands of flickering deyas (tiny clay pots containing candle wicks) light his way. In the nine days leading up to Divali, Trinidadians of all ethnicities and religions visit the Divali Nagar site in Chaguanas: the lighting of deyas at dusk is breathtaking.
Divali in Felicity
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Decemberp Shopping frenzyp 25: Christmas Day (public holiday): p 26: Boxing Day (public holiday)(horse racing, parties)p Tobago: Flying Colours (kite flying festival,
Plymouth)p Tobago: Assembly Day (the Tobago House of
Assembly celebrates and rewards local achievements; exhibitions and a sports/recreation day)
p Trinidad: Paramin Parang Festivalp Trinidad: Hosay Festival and procession based on
historic Islamic events
Quick Tipsp All dates and events are subject to changep Exact dates may not be set till nearer the event
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hosayThis originally Islamic festival commemorates the martyrdom of Hussain, the Prophet Muhammad’s grandson, and later murder of his brother Hassan. The lively three-night celebrations culminate in a procession of exquisitely made tadjahs (fanciful replicas of the tomb of Hussein) which are carried through the streets to the thunder of tassa drums; and are eventually cast into the sea. Popular venues for watching and joining Hosay activities are St James, Curepe, Tunapuna, Couva, and Cedros. Dates vary each year according to the moon.
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Doing business with T&T
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CocoaTrinidad & Tobago’s fine flavour cocoa is some of the best in the world. It won first prize in the “spicy” category in the prestigious Salut du Chocolat in Paris in 2011. Entrepreneurs have been working on creating delicious, locally branded chocolate from cocoa grown right here.
The Trinidad & Tobago economy is one of the strongest
in the Caribbean, and the most industrialised, thanks to its own oil and natural gas. Petrochemicals, LNG, steel and various downstream industries are clustered at the Point Lisas industrial estate on the west coast, and other estates further south towards La Brea and Point Fortin. Methanol Holdings Trinidad, at
Point Lisas, is the world’s largest producer of methanol from a single plant.
The energy sector is crucial to the national economy, but crude oil production has been declining in recent years at an alarming rate. In addition, the country is losing its major market for LNG, the United States, which is steadily turning into a net exporter rather than an importer, thanks largely to its shale gas. Not long ago, Trinidad & Tobago was supplying 70% of US LNG imports.
Trinidad & Tobago’s current emphasis, therefore, is on market diversification, refinery upgrading, a new generation of downstream industries, new investment, and an aggressive exploration programme to boost crude oil production, in deep as well as shallow water.
There is also enthusiasm for becoming a knowledge-based economy and for boosting tourism. The Tamana InTech Park taking shape at Wallerfield in eastern Trinidad is envisaged as a state-of-the-art science and technology park targeting established and emerging companies in information & communication technology software development, high-tech manufacturing, and agro-processing. The state-owned
company eTecK (Evolving TecKnologies) also manages 16 other more conventional industrial parks.
Tourism has been hard hit by the global financial upheaval of recent years. One strategy has been to establish a conventions bureau to market Trinidad’s extensive conference and meetings capacity, while Tobago has seen the opening of a major new hotel, the Magdalena Grand, formerly the Tobago Hilton.
Tobago depends heavily on tourism, the only other major employer being the public sector. But some serious diversification is under way in the shape of the Cove Eco-Industrial Estate and Business Park, designed to promote knowledge-based industries, light manufacturing, information technology, and selected intermediate goods processing. It will also be the local terminal for a proposed natural gas pipeline to Barbados.
Trinidad & Tobago provides several advantages to potential investors, even outside the energy sector; its location, as a sort of hinge between the Caribbean, South America and North America, and its trade agreements with Europe, Canada, the United States, Caricom, and parts of Central and South America.
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It also claims the largest and newest conference infrastructure in the English-speaking Caribbean; high-quality ICT infrastructure and telecommunications; a good track record with FDI; excellent and reliable access from major international aviation hubs; bilateral investment and taxation treaties; no foreign exchange controls; and, for qualifying projects, exemption from VAT, customs duty and other taxes. (Not to mention a lifestyle that integrates laid-back island charm with a vibrant cultural landscape and a competitive and sophisticated business climate.)
Quick tipsp For information on property investment, see the
Real Estate articles in both the Trinidad and Tobago sections
p For information on tourism and investment, visit tdc.co.tt, tourism.gov.tt, gotrinidadandtobago.com, or investt.co.tt
The Petrotrin refinery at Pointe-à–Pierre
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The Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB) offers a wide range of complimentary services that will take the hassle out of event planning and ensure an amazing experience for groups, including:
• working with meeting planners to design innovative and unique itineraries, whether it be an eco-adventure, cultural extravaganza, or a little bit of everything T&T
• liaising between planners and suppliers (hotels, tour operators, etc.) to negotiate rates• hosting site inspections for meeting planners considering a programme in T&T.
Website: http://www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings Email: [email protected]
Meeting facilities & amenities
The Southern Caribbean’s leading business tourism destination, Port of Spain – the capital of Trinidad and Tobago – boasts the newest and largest conference facilities in the southern Caribbean. The city’s eight major event venues include the Hyatt Regency Trinidad, the modernised Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, and the National Academy for the Performing Arts (NAPA).
Overlooking the serene emerald waters of the Gulf of Paria, the Hyatt Regency Trinidad offers the best of Caribbean hospitality and international luxury with over 43,000 square feet of flexible meeting space, grand ballrooms, an exceptional business centre, a waterfront restaurant, rooftop pool and sundeck.
Also boasting scenic views and top-notch technology is the recently upgraded Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, with 40,000 square feet of meeting space. Overlooking the lush Queen’s Park Savannah, the venue offers more than 400 rooms, including four presidential suites. There also exists a wide range of charming smaller properties for more intimate gatherings.
In the tranquil sister isle of Tobago, the newly re-opened Magdalena Grand Beach Resort offers 178 deluxe ocean front king and double rooms plus 22 suites with private jacuzzis, all with breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean from large terraces or balconies. The property also includes over 5500 square feet of meeting space.
Island buzz
EatFor the epicures at heart, come tantalise your taste
buds on Trinidad’s restaurant district. Ariapita Avenue features a range of dining fare, from fine restaurants to intimate jazz lounges and swanky tropical spots.
DrinkDiscover the world’s most expensive rum on a tour
of the renowned Angostura Rum Distillery, which is also home to the popular Angostura Bitters.
Be merryKnown as “The Greatest Show on Earth”, Trinidad
and Tobago’s Carnival is like no other. Enjoy rhythmic indigenous music, from soca to steelpan, or join the costumed parade. Outside of Carnival you can join a conga line and dance the night away while savouring steelpan music and exquisite local food at an authentic Trini Pan Lime.
Trinidad and Tobago is incomparable in the Caribbean in its unsurpassed energy, diversity and distinctive cultural heritage. Enjoy a world of multi-ethnic festivals in Trinidad or come unwind in scenic Tobago and be mesmerised by its enchanting rainforests and pristine beaches. And for meeting planners seeking something exciting and new in the Caribbean, the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau will work closely with you to plan the perfect programme.
At Your Service!
A D V E R T O R I A L
TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
Meetings andso much more!
The Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau (TTCB) offers a wide range of complimentary services that will take the hassle out of event planning and ensure an amazing experience for groups, including:
• working with meeting planners to design innovative and unique itineraries, whether it be an eco-adventure, cultural extravaganza, or a little bit of everything T&T
• liaising between planners and suppliers (hotels, tour operators, etc.) to negotiate rates• hosting site inspections for meeting planners considering a programme in T&T.
Website: http://www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings Email: [email protected]
Meeting facilities & amenities
The Southern Caribbean’s leading business tourism destination, Port of Spain – the capital of Trinidad and Tobago – boasts the newest and largest conference facilities in the southern Caribbean. The city’s eight major event venues include the Hyatt Regency Trinidad, the modernised Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, and the National Academy for the Performing Arts (NAPA).
Overlooking the serene emerald waters of the Gulf of Paria, the Hyatt Regency Trinidad offers the best of Caribbean hospitality and international luxury with over 43,000 square feet of flexible meeting space, grand ballrooms, an exceptional business centre, a waterfront restaurant, rooftop pool and sundeck.
Also boasting scenic views and top-notch technology is the recently upgraded Hilton Trinidad and Conference Centre, with 40,000 square feet of meeting space. Overlooking the lush Queen’s Park Savannah, the venue offers more than 400 rooms, including four presidential suites. There also exists a wide range of charming smaller properties for more intimate gatherings.
In the tranquil sister isle of Tobago, the newly re-opened Magdalena Grand Beach Resort offers 178 deluxe ocean front king and double rooms plus 22 suites with private jacuzzis, all with breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean from large terraces or balconies. The property also includes over 5500 square feet of meeting space.
Island buzz
EatFor the epicures at heart, come tantalise your taste
buds on Trinidad’s restaurant district. Ariapita Avenue features a range of dining fare, from fine restaurants to intimate jazz lounges and swanky tropical spots.
DrinkDiscover the world’s most expensive rum on a tour
of the renowned Angostura Rum Distillery, which is also home to the popular Angostura Bitters.
Be merryKnown as “The Greatest Show on Earth”, Trinidad
and Tobago’s Carnival is like no other. Enjoy rhythmic indigenous music, from soca to steelpan, or join the costumed parade. Outside of Carnival you can join a conga line and dance the night away while savouring steelpan music and exquisite local food at an authentic Trini Pan Lime.
Trinidad and Tobago is incomparable in the Caribbean in its unsurpassed energy, diversity and distinctive cultural heritage. Enjoy a world of multi-ethnic festivals in Trinidad or come unwind in scenic Tobago and be mesmerised by its enchanting rainforests and pristine beaches. And for meeting planners seeking something exciting and new in the Caribbean, the Trinidad & Tobago Convention Bureau will work closely with you to plan the perfect programme.
At Your Service!
A D V E R T O R I A L
TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
Meetings andso much more!
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Rhythm of a peopleDespite our infamous fête culture, we don’t actually spend all our time jumping and
“palancing”, a term invented by soca duo JW & Blaze to describe the total abandon with which Trinbagonians dance at Carnival time. There’s a rich and varied arts scene, for example,
with enough theatre groups, fashion designers, writers, musicians, filmmakers, dance companies and visual artists to keep you busy and engaged every night of the week.
Dancep Caribbean people being natural dancers, a
dance performance might mean folk, ballet, jazz, modern, Indian, Latin, Chinese...
p Some companies worth looking out for are the Cascade Festival Ballet, Metamorphosis, the Noble Douglas Dance Company, and Elle; some interesting smaller troupes also experiment with multi-media presentation
p In the second half of the year, the Best Village competition keeps folk dance traditions alive in local communities
p The Northwest Laventille Cultural Movement and the Shiv Shakti dance company are renowned for presenting African-based and traditional Indian dance
fashion & jewelleryp Trinidad & Tobago has a strong sense of style, so don’t be surprised to find very
trendy fashion by designers like Heather Jones, Meiling, Claudia Pegus and Robert Young (The Cloth)
p New fashion ideas are creeping into the Carnival too, e.g. through young designers Kathy and Karen Norman of K2K, who will launch an haute couture evening wear line in 2013
p Anya Ayoung-Chee, former Miss T&T Universe (and winner of Season 9 of the hit American television series Project Runway) has her own fashion line
p And there’s lovely handcrafted jewellery from artists like Barbara Jardine, Chris Anderson and Gillian Bishop
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film & cinemap Trinidad & Tobago is quickly catching on to the possibilities of filmmaking, backed by a
national film companyp The best place to see recent work is the trinidad+tobago film festival in late September/
early October (it also screens local and diaspora films in local communities during the year)p That’s followed immediately by the European Film Festival (October), screening new and
classic European movies p Meanwhile the trend for mainstream Hollywood titles is moving away from stand-alone
screens towards multiplexes (MovieTowne in Port of Spain, Chaguanas and Tobago; Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity)
p The latest novelty is an IMAX cinema in St James, Port of Spainp Classic and independent films are screened by Campus Film Classics at the University of
the West Indies
Michael Mooleedhar (far right) directs a scene from his movie The Cool Boys
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Musicp The music that was invented and developed in Trinidad & Tobago – calypso, soca, steelpan
(“pan”) – is best heard at Carnival time, though there are shows of one sort or another most months of the year
p Especially interesting is the way the music has been evolving from local roots into various kinds of “world music”: look out for Mungal Patasar, Ella Andall, David Rudder, Maximus Dan, Orange Sky, 12theband, jointpop, 3canal, or recordings by the late André Tanker. Rock, pop, reggaeton, R&B, jazz, rapso, reggae and Indian-flavoured “chutney” are all part of the mix
p Meanwhile both amateurs and professionals stage light classics, opera and musical theatre during the year, and there are some outstanding choral groups (the Marionettes, Love Movement, the Lydian Singers, Signal Hill, Jeunes Agape)
p The University of the West Indies (UWI) has an industrious Festival Chorale, and a couple of amateur orchestras are taking shape. The UTT (University of Trinidad & Tobago) Musicians present free classical concerts at the huge National Academy of Performing Arts (NAPA) in Port of Spain
p Less susceptible to change is the Spanish-flavoured “parang” music (paranda) associated with Christmas
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Literaturep A new generation of writers
(Monique Roffey, Elizabeth Walcott-Hardy) is establishing itself alongside such veterans as VS Naipaul, Earl Lovelace, Michael Anthony and the late Sam Selvon
p Bookshop chains (Nigel R Khan, RIK) have a presence in the shopping malls, and there are some fine independent bookshops like the Readers Bookshop near Long Circular Mall and Paper Based in the Hotel Normandie
p The excellent National Library is on Abercromby Street in Port of Spain
theatrep With several theatrical companies and venues,
offerings vary from popular farces to lavish song and dance musicals (local, localised and foreign) or intimate solo shows and dramas. University departments also mount productions, while Lilliput presents children’s theatre. All are advertised in the daily newspapers.
p The epic ritualised Hindu drama of Ramleela is staged in central Trinidad locations in the run-up to Divali. The annual Best Village competition is where many local actors and playwrights cut their teeth
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Visual artsp Trinidad & Tobago has produced some distinguished visual artists, whose work is displayed in the seven-
gallery National Museum and city art galleries, and a significant art market has developed p Key names include sculptors Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Edward Bowen, Leroy Clarke, Chris Cozier,
Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Irénée Shaw, Peter Sheppard and Sundiata
p Work by earlier generations is highly valued (MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Jean-Michel Cazabon, Carlisle Chang, Boscoe Holder, Noel Vaucrosson)
Quick tipsp Check the daily papers for current performance and exhibition information
15’x6’ (painted on 15 2’x3’ canvas panels)“In my little world” by Peter Sheppard
Acrylic on canvas 2009 (private collection in Barbados)
Turtles, diving & hiking
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Turtle watching
Trinidad’s northeast and Tobago’s southwest coasts are among the world’s most important turtle nesting grounds. During nesting
months (March–August), from mid-evening through early morning, female turtles – endangered leatherbacks as well as hawksbill, green and occasional loggerheads and olive ridleys – heave themselves out of the ocean and crawl up the beach.
Laboriously they dig nests in the sand and deposit their eggs, carefully camouflaging the spot. Two months later, the eggs hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash for the sea; few survive the predators and make it to maturity.
Trinidad’s Grande Rivière (the second largest leatherback nesting site in the world) and Matura are both popular sites and protected beaches. In Tobago, turtles frequent the beaches of the Leeward coast, especially Stonehaven and Courland (or Turtle) beaches.
ancientvisitorsTrinidad and Tobago are among the most important leatherback nesting sites in the world, with about 18% of the total world population nesting here. Sadly, as few as one in a thousand baby sea turtles will survive long enough to return to T&T as an adult.
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turtle tips p Permits are required: any good tour operator can arrange this. If you stay overnight nearby, hotels
and guesthouses can usually help to obtain permits, and will wake you when there are sightingsp Go with a guide, and give nesting turtles lots of space, especially during the digging and covering
process. Do not touch or in any way disturb the turtlesp Lights and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Be quiet and unobtrusive on beaches
during the nesting season, particularly at night; do not use flashlights or flash photography. Do not pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea
p Don’t drive on nesting beaches, as vehicles can crush whole clutches of eggs hidden in the sandp The Turtle Village Trust is the umbrella body for the islands’ leading turtle conservation groups:
Nature Seekers; the Grande Rivière Nature Tour Guide Association; the Matura to Matelot (M2M) Network; the Fishing Pond Turtle Conservation Group; and SOS (Save our Sea Turtles) Tobago. These are the places to start asking for more information
Diving
The islands’ extensive coral reefs, especially in Tobago, are a great draw for visitors and diving enthusiasts. Some are content with snorkelling, but naturally many want the thrill of scuba diving and exploring the submarine world.
Blessed with nutrient-rich waters, Tobago enjoys a varied and abundant marine environment. Manta, eagle and sting rays are perennial attractions, as well as hammerhead, nurse and black-tipped reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leatherback turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dolphin; and pelagic species such as marlin.
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The variety of dive types (wreck, drift and reef diving) and dive sites is among the best in the Caribbean. The major reef structures include the 10,000-year-old Buccoo Reef, Kilgwyn Flying Reef, Culloden Reef, Speyside (featuring the world’s largest brain coral), and Charlotteville Reef (home to manta rays from March to August).
The most popular dive sites include Japanese Gardens, east of Goat Island; Black Jack Hole, east of Little Tobago; Book Ends, between Speyside and Little Tobago (best for advanced divers); and the wreck of MV Maverick off the west coast. In Trinidad, the best areas are off the Chaguaramas and Toco coasts.
diving tips p Take care when diving and snorkelling not to
touch the coral; it is easily damaged, and if you’re really unlucky you will get stung by fire coral
p Scuba diving opens up an exciting new world – but to appreciate it fully, a PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) registered guide is recommended
p Accredited dive operators in both Trinidad and Tobago offer courses for beginners, open water, advanced, rescue diver, drift diving, deep diving and wreck diving. The Tobago Underwater Carnival in July provides introductory courses
p Both islands have accredited dive centres, e.g. in Chaguaramas, Charlotteville, Speyside, the Crown Point area and Arnos Vale
p Average water temperature: 25–29°C/77–85°Fp Average visibility: 24–37m/80–120ft; best
visibility is January–August, especially May–July
p Average depth: 18m/60ft; maximum depth 34m/110ft
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Hiking & trekkingp When outdoors, wear long trousers for lengthy
bush treks, and never wear open-toed sandals; comfortable, water-proof shoes with good grip are recommended
p For hiking, take a little knapsack with a change of clothes, socks and something to eat, stored in a waterproof bag. If you carry a camera that’s not waterproof, keep it here too
p Avoid wearing black: it attracts mosquitoes and, if you’re in the open, soaks in the heat
p Bring enough water to stay hydrated
Quick tipsp Please recycle: Ace, Carib Glass, Piranha, Recycling in Motion (RIM), It’s Up to Me nvironmental,
and SWMCOL (Solid Waste Management Authority) process plastic, glass, aluminium, paper, cardboard and electronics (e-waste); some also sponsor receptacles around the islands, or will collect your recyclables
p Please reduce: turn off electrical devices when you don’t need them; avoid plastic bags and styrofoam; buy and consume only what you need; reuse when you can
tips & tricksp Use guides registered with the Trinidad
& Tobago Incoming Tour Operators’ Association (TTITOA); they are professionally trained and have public liability insurance
p Permits are needed for some locations and activities (e.g. camping, turtle-watching), but any reputable guide or tour operator can arrange these
p Natural hazards are rare, but beware of the Portuguese Man-o’-War jellyfish, and the sap and fruit of the manchineel tree; seek local advice on whether these present
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The shopping challengeFor some, of course, this will not be a problem. But for the others …
Shopping mallsp There are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall fo and Long Circular
Mall fp in the western suburbs of Port of Spain; Trincity Mall fq near Piarco airport; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn) fr; and Gulf City (San Fernando) fs
p While you will find branches of popular downtown stores there, the malls also house high-end stores you won’t find anywhere else
p In Trinidad there are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls (e.g. Valsayn ft and Ellerslie guPlazas, and the ever-popular Excellent City Centre gl in the heart of Port of Spain)
p In Tobago, the main mall (and cineplex) is Gulf City Lowlands gm , not far from Scarborough
Downtown In every major urban centre in Trinidad, non-mall shopping is focused on a few key streets: Frederick and Charlotte Streets (Port of Spain); High Street (San Fernando); Main Street (Chaguanas); Milford Road Esplanade and the Market at Carrington Street in Scarborough, Tobago.
onlineThough relatively new, online shopping is gaining traction. So far, food, shoes, clothing, lingerie and accessories are the main items that can be bought from local sites.
trade fairs Indian businessmen have been doing brisk business in Trinidad over the last decade with trade fairs where they sell clothing, jewellery, household products, foodstuff and furniture at bargain prices.
The Falls at West Mall
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Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
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Best buysJust in case you’re stumped for ideas, whether for yourself or as gifts to take home, here are some local suggestions.
Art & craft p Wood carvings, handmade soaps, belts,
handbags, shell jewellery, calabash art, sandals, sarongs, wooden sculptures and carvings, accessories in leather and other natural materials (from shopping plazas in downtown Port of Spain, San Fernando, Chaguanas and Scarborough, from souvenir shops in the malls, and from sidewalk vendors)
p Local craft (from hotel shops and beach vendors)
p Paintings, sculptures and other art (from local art stores and galleries, and at studios like Luise Kimme’s Castle and The Art Gallery in Tobago)
Books & magazinesp Local fiction and non-fiction, and locally
produced magazines, of which there are many (from the Readers Bookshop in St James, the RIK or Nigel R Khan bookstore chains, or Paper Based at the Hotel Normandie)
Musicp Local CDs and DVDs (though you might
not think so from the radio, local music is thriving: in addition to calypso, steel pan, soca and chutney music, you will find local rock, hip-hop, gospel, reggae, choral and Indian music at most music stores)
p You can download local music from TrinidadTunes.com and from iTunes
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Clothes & fabricsp Inexpensive mass-market clothing from China
and the USA (local boutiques)p Up-market clothing from Europe and the USA
(higher-end boutiques)p Ethnic clothing from India and Africap Designer fare from celebrated local designers (see
Rhythm of a people for more information)p Hand-dyed fabrics and batiks, swimwear and
sportswear p Indian fashion, accessories, fabrics, textiles, home
décor, and jewellery (e.g. from the unique House of Jaipur in Woodbrook)
p In Tobago, don’t miss Batiki Point at the “Sunday School” venue in Buccoo
TV & filmp DVDs of locally produced television series and films,
including Carnival shows and parades
Food & spiritsp Pepper and other sauces, roti skins,
pastelles, chocolate, seasonings, spicesp Award-winning Trinidadian rum,
spirits and bittersp HiLo and TruValu are the big grocery
chains, as well as PennySavers in Tobago
Jewelleryp Hand-crafted jewellery, precious stones
(specialist stores, sidewalk vendors)
Souvenirsp Mini steel pans, mugs, key chains,
T-shirts, figurines, music, Carnival dolls, handcrafted copper trinkets (Excellent Stores is a good place to start)
You can buy clothes and souvenirs from small shops like this one in Tobago
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Quick tipsp As in many other parts of the world, piracy is a thriving business, and does untold damage to local
artists, musicians and writers, so please buy from bona fide businesses, and avoid anything that looks as if it might have been bootlegged
p Please also avoid souvenirs made from endangered species or rare materials (like black coral or turtle shell)
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Horse ridingp In Tobago, you can go horseback riding on some beaches,
including Stonehaven, Grand Courland and Canoe Bays. There are woodland trails in the southern half of the island. Most hotels can make arrangements, and there is an office at Canoe Bay
p In Trinidad, dressage and show jumping instruction is available at Bays & Greys Riding Centre (Santa Cruz), Jericoe Stables (St Ann’s), and Goodwin Heights (the 250-acre former coffee and cocoa estate of Margaret “Muffy” Auerbach in St Ann’s). For trail riding, contact Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza Stud Farm (Arima)
Play hard: the sporting lifeSports are big in Trinidad & Tobago. Football (soccer) and cricket are national passions. Over the
years, the islands have been well represented internationally in track and field, football, cricket, hockey, boxing, martial arts, swimming, motor sports and shooting. The local sporting calendar
is packed with competitions. And if you’d like to join the action …
Divingp Tobago is a prime dive location, with over 60 established
dive sites (mainly around the northern tip) – shallow reef dives, deep diving, wreck diving and drift diving. Most dive operators offer introductory courses; there is a decompression chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility, 20 minutes’ drive from Speyside
p Trinidad cannot match Tobago as a diving destination, but there is still activity all year. The best is around the islands off Chaguaramas, particularly Chacachacare, sheltered from the muddy waters of the Orinoco; parts of the north and west coasts are also good dive sites
p On either island, dive with a PADI registered operator
gyms & health clubsp Gyms are everywhere, especially at larger hotels and malls;
many offer weekly, monthly and daily passes which allow visitors access to group exercise classes, aerobics, spin, etc.
p Yoga and Pilates are popular ways of pursuing health and wellness, as are some non-traditional activities like pole dancing
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alien invasionLionfish have been spreading across the Caribbean. Strikingly beautiful, they are predators with no natural enemies, and decimate juvenile fish species on our reefs. They were spotted for the first time in Tobago last year .
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Kayakingp In Trinidad, river kayaking is best in the wet season when
rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers on the north coast are popular spots; so is the Nariva Swamp, where the Godineau River takes you through saltwater mangrove swamps and freshwater marshland
p For sea kayaking, the Kayak Centre in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters of Williams Bay, and provides equipment
p In Tobago, you can pick up kayaking tours and lessons at Man-o’-War Bay. Kayaks can be rented at some beaches, and at beach resorts like Grafton Bay Resort and Le Grand Courlan. Take extra care in the rainy season
golfp Trinidad has three 18-hole
courses, at St Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka, Millennium Lakes in Trincity, and the Pointe-à-Pierre Golf Club at the Petrotrin refinery near San Fernando. There are nine-hole courses at Brechin Castle, Usine Ste Madeleine and Chaguaramas
p Tobago is served by two fine 18-hole golf courses at Mt Irvine Hotel and Tobago Plantations
Sailingp Trinidad has one of the largest racing fleets in the
Caribbean, and Chaguaramas is a major sailing hub. The racing season begins around November–December and continues till May–June
p Dry season winds are stronger (northeast trade, consistent force 4–5), while in the wet season they tend to be lighter (1–3)
p The Sailing Association hosts over a dozen races, including general handicap races where any boat can take part
p Most of Trinidad’s north coast bays offer good daytime anchorage, but only professional captains should attempt the windward side
p The Tobago Carnival Regatta (formerly Sail Week) is a popular annual event, not only for the sailing but for the partying which follows. It provides racing for varying levels, from the highest racing class to racer cruiser, cruiser and charter class
p Some tour operators operate sightseeing sailboat tours and diving trips
Tennisp There are public courts
at King George V Park in St Clair, Trinidad, and at Store Bay, Tobago (reservations required). Courts can be rented by the hour at the Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. Courts at Tranquillity and Westmoorings require yearly membership
p Play in the early morning or late afternoon if you want to avoid the scorching midday sun
Sport fishingp For sports fishing aficionados, Trinidad means tarpon. Onshore fishing in Trinidad is popular in
Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera Point and the mouth of the Nariva River p Popular boat-fishing spots include the Chaguaramas islands, where fishermen troll for carite,
kingfish and cavalli, and bank for redfish, salmon and croakers (or grunt)p Many highly prized pelagic species, such as blue marlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo and dorado, patrol
Tobago’s reef and shelf drop-offs; Charlotteville’s waters are particularly productive. There is also inshore, river, mudflat and fly fishing
p The key offshore seasons are October–April for marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna and dorado; and May–September for barracuda, kingfish, bonito, and snapper
p The two major competitions are the Tobago International Game Fishing Tournament at Charlotteville and the Trinidad & Tobago Game Fishing Association Tournament at Speyside. There have been record catches in the last few years: a 400kg (890lb) blue marlin was caught in the 2008 TTGFA tournament, setting a junior world record
p The importance of conservation is recognised, so competitions and charters use the tag-and-release system
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Surfingp Trinidad’s north coast beaches provide
favourable swells from November to March, though the wet season (and the occasional hurricane passing further north) can generate strong waves as well. But even in peak season, patience is needed, as surfing isn’t possible every day
p Sans Souci, Las Cuevas, L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Roughside and Salybia are the most popular surfing spots
p In March, the Surfing Association stages the CSN Sans Souci, the first event in the cross-Caribbean Carib Challenge Cup series. It also hosts the International Surf Festival in May, and national championships in July
p In Tobago, Mt Irvine and Bacolet are major surfing spots that can generate perfectly shaped waves; board rentals and lessons are available
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Spectator sportsIf you’d rather sit back and watch other people sweat, then you might like:
Athletics The big local events are the annual Hampton Games at the Hasely Crawford Stadium in Port of Spain and the Southern Games at Guaracara Park, Pointe-à-Pierre. There are 45 athletics clubs across the country; the presiding body is the National Amateur Athletics Association
Basketball The Jean Pierre Complex (Port of Spain) and the Sport & Physical Education Centre (St Augustine) are the main venues, with others in Maloney, Point Fortin and Pleasantville. The Super Ten (October–December) and the National Club Championship are major events. In Tobago, the venue is Shaw Park; 22 other hard courts are open for public use
Body building Great entertainment for the merciless crowd, but participants in the junior and senior championships take things very seriously
Cricket The Twenty/20 format has reinvigorated cricket. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of Spain is a beautiful venue for international Tests and One-Day Internationals, and has been the home of the Queen’s Park Cricket Club since 1896. Shaw Park is Tobago’s premier location. Trinidad is the home of master batsman and former West Indies captain Brian Lara
Cycling Major events are the Beacon Cycling Series, the Tobago Cycling Classic, the Rainbow Cup Triathlon, West Indies vs the World, the Easter International Grand Prix and the National Championships. Trinidad’s Queen’s Park Savannah and the Arima Velodrome are popular venues
Dragon boat racing A young sport which caught on in 2006; in 2011, the national team won several medals at the International Dragon Boat Federation World Championships in Tampa,
watersportsp Equipment rental and lessons in all manner of watersports –
kitesurfing, parasailing, surfing, kayaking, waterskiing – are readily available at beaches across the country, especially in Tobago. Crown Point and Speyside are great locations
p In late August, powerboats vie for supremacy on an 84-mile route from Trinidad to Tobago in the Carib Great Race
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Florida. Regattas have taken place in both Trinidad and Tobago, mainly around Chaguaramas and Pigeon Point
Football Pretty much the national sport. There are male and female national teams (the Soca Warriors and Soca Princesses), plus professional and secondary school leagues and clubs for children. The Soca Warriors reached the finals of the World Cup in 2006 (T&T was the smallest nation ever to qualify). Matches are held at the Dwight Yorke Stadium in Tobago, and the Hasely Crawford, Marvin Lee, Larry Gomes, Ato Boldon, and Manny Ramjohn stadiums in Trinidad. The Pro League runs April–December
Hiking & hashing Hiking is popular, especially guided weekend hikes to some of the island’s most breathtaking caves and waterfalls. The Port of Spain Hash House Harriers is a 100-strong bi-weekly event, with healthy attention to the social necessities
Hockey The hockey year is split in two: an indoor season (September–January) and an outdoor season, on Tacarigua’s Astroturf in Trinidad and at the Dwight Yorke Stadium in Tobago (March–August)
Horse racing Trinidad’s horse racing track is at Santa Rosa Park near Arima (with an AmTote betting system). Thoroughbreds pound the dirt most Saturdays and public holidays, totalling about 40 race days a year. Prestige events include New Year races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsummer Classic, President’s Cup and the Santa Rosa Classic
Martial arts Very popular now, especially in Trinidad: capoeira, kung fu, karate, bushido, aikido, judo, jujitsu, tai chi, kickboxing. Several dojos teach martial arts styles, from kung fu to wushu; Purple Dragon, founded by Professor Don Jacob, teaches Trinidad’s only indigenous form of karate, don jitsu ryu. The full contact combat sport MMA (Mixed Martial Arts), aka cage fighting,
used to be unregulated but is now an accepted item on the calendar. Caribbean Ultimate Fist Fighting (CUFF) has held a number of local events featuring international professionals
Motor sports Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago are the big events. The Rally Club (TTRC) has hosted legs of the Caribbean Speed Stages Rally Championship. Drag racing is popular, though it is yet to find a permanent base. Locations in south and central Trinidad include the popular Zig Zag and Indian Trail tracks in Couva. American autocross defensive driving competitions and karting events are held in the car park of the Santa Rosa race track
Mountain biking Mountain Bike Magazine called Tobago the “mountain biker’s island paradise.” In Trinidad, Chaguaramas is ideal for beginners, but the Santa Cruz valley and Matura-to-Matelot stretch are also popular. Tobago provides great terrain for all levels. Muddy trails can be hazardous in the wet season. Unless you already know the terrain well, go with a guide
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Tying the knotWant to get married in T&T? No problem. And if you need someone to plan your wedding,
that’s no problem either. Wedding planners can organise part or all of your arrangements, including the actual ceremony. They can find the perfect venue and source anything from
flowers and decorations to photographers and entertainers. A church wedding, a wedding on the beach, even an underwater wedding? An all-inclusive
honeymoon package, an oceanside vista, accommodation for a hundred guests? Villa, hotel or resort for your honeymoon? Tobago in particular has locations and service providers to suit any couple’s needs.
what you need to knowp First, you must establish temporary residency in Trinidad & Tobago by scheduling any wedding
activities no less than three full days after your arrivalp Obtain a special marriage licence (US$55) at the Inland Revenue Department, with proof of
identity (e.g. valid passport) and a valid return air ticketp If you are divorced or widowed, you must provide evidence of your single status, and show
the relevant divorce decree or death certificate. Documents which are not in English must be accompanied by a notarised English translation
p If you are under 18, you must have the written consent of your parent or guardianp At your wedding ceremony you will need two witnesses, identified by their passports p The marriage must be performed between 6am and 6pmp You will receive two marriage certificates that are accepted in most countries. (It’s wise to confirm
this and check for any additional requirements in your home country well in advance)
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trinidad Where to stay?
For the business travellerp Business hotels in Trinidad tend to be grand or simply practical, but they provide what the average
businessperson needs to prepare for meetings and stay in touchp Several international hotel brands have properties in and around Port of Spainp There is plenty of flexible conference and meeting space in the city, and a conference bureau to assistp Excellent hotels and facilities are part of the reason why Trinidad is the business centre of the
Caribbeanp Some properties popular among business travellers:
KapokDiscoverT&TMag(O).indd 1 17/09/2012 16:29
Port of Spainp Hyatt Regency Trinidad on the city waterfrontp Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre
overlooking the Savannahp Carlton Savannah in St Ann’sp Courtyard by Marriott, near MovieTownep Kapok Hotel in Maraval
Near the airportp Holiday Inn Suites
San Fernandop Royal Hotelp Tradewinds Hotelp Cara Suites
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for the vacationerp Adventurers and budget travellers often prefer
the smaller, homelier hotels, guesthouses, and bed-and-breakfast properties
p Luxury seekers gravitate to the large hotels; all the business hotels mentioned will cater for vacation needs. Several large hotels, like the ones on the previous page, cater for both the business traveller and the luxury seeker. Most have world-class spas and luxurious rooms, and can organise tours or shuttles to the island’s places of interest
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Luxurious room at the Hyatt
With a prime location in the heart of downtown Port of Spain, Hyatt Regency Trinidad is the premiere hotel for any type of getaway. Spacious suites offer spectacular gulf views, flat-screen televisions and our signature Hyatt Grand Bed, while our 9,000 square-foot locally inspired spa and rooftop infinity pool overlooking the gulf provide a luxurious retreat. World-class cuisine and deluxe facilities designed to accommodate weddings, events and parties of all sizes ensure guests will get the most out of their stay. For reservations, call 868 623 2222 or visit trinidad.hyatt.com.
escape the ordinary. discover hyatt regency trinidad
The trademarks HYATT, and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Hotels Corporation. © 2012 Hyatt Hotels Corporation. All rights reserved.
868 623 2222trinidad.hyatt.com
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Guesthouses and B&Bsp These are many and varied, with full
service and business amenities at one end of the scale, and basic self-catering at the other
p Most are located in or close to the cities, but there are some excellent places in the countryside as well
p The Allamanda (Woodbrook), Sundeck Suites (Port of Spain) and Par-May-La’s (Newtown) are handy for Port of Spain
r&rSo you’ve toured from coast to coast, limed the night away, shopped till you dropped … now it’s time for a little indulgence. The Face & Body Clinic – in the spa business for over 25 years – has locations in San Fernando, Port of Spain, Tobago, and Chaguanas. Their products, treatments and professional programmes are based on those of Spanish spa and body-care giant Germaine de Capuccini. So go ahead: pamper yourself!
courtesy face & body clinic
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For the eco-enthusiastp Trinidad rewards eco-tourists and nature enthusiasts with a wide range
of flora and fauna within the confines of a small island, and plenty of opportunities for exploration and adventure
p Many come to Trinidad to visit the forest and wetlands, or to watch birds or turtles
p There are some wonderful nature-oriented havens in remote parts of Trinidad – some on the beach, some in the mountains
Nariva River
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Nature lodgesp Asa Wright Nature Centre in the hills
above Arimap Beachfront properties in Grande
Rivière, where guests can get close to endangered leatherback turtles as they nest between March and August
p Hacienda Jacana near Talparop Pax Guest House at Mount St Benedict
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trinidad Bargain hunting
p In 2012, hotel room rates averaged US$125 a night, guesthouses $65
p Discounted rates and packages are often available
p The peak visitor season is December–April (expect higher rates); prices also increase around Carnival time
p Last-minute rooms are often available, but it’s best to book ahead for any international events and conferences, and for traditionally popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas and New Year
p Visit gotrinidadandtobago.com and visittobago.gov for current information
trini talkBacchanal: a scandalous, confusion, commotion, a rowdy eventFête: a party (hence “to fête”)Lime: to hang out with friends (hence “a lime”)Maco: nosy person, a busybody (hence “to maco”)Mas: Carnival, masqueradeWine: sensual dancing (hence “to wine”)Palance: party, lime, dance (hence “to palance”)
stephen broadbridge
Nestled within the picturesque Cascade valley, The Carlton Savannah is Trinidad’s trendiest boutique hotel. Located minutes away from the eventful
capital, Port of Spain and adjacent to the world’s largest roundabout, the Queen’s Park Savannah, we are your home away from home.
Our chic 148 guest rooms can be transformed to 49 stylishly designed suites including fully equipped office spaces or a luxurious living room.
Apart from our spacious air-conditioned rooms with 32 inch flat screentelevisions we also provide complimentary internet access, in-room tea and coffee, laundry facilities, heated salt water lapped-style swimming pool and fitness centre.
Excite your palate with dishes from our casual dining restaurant, RELISH or our award winning, AAA 4-diamond, fine-dining restaurant, CASA.
Rest assured... It's all about you!
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Dining outIt would be a real shame to visit Trinidad
and stick to steaks and hamburgers, pizzas and fries. Especially when there are so
many interesting local alternatives. The people of Trinidad are descended from
every corner of the planet: from West Africa, India and China, Europe and North America, the Middle East and the Mediterranean. So the island has inherited a whole variety of culinary traditions. Each of them has contributed its own techniques and preferences to the national pot; they have fused with each other, combined and adapted to their new surroundings, to
Bake & sharkTrinidad is famous for its bake and shark, especially at Maracas. But shark populations worldwide have been declining rapidly, including those in T&T’s waters. Their disappearance would wreak havoc on our marine ecosystem. So why not help protect it by ordering catfish, king fish, shrimp or cheese with your bake?
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produce Trinidad’s distinctive national cuisine. The resilience of the Chinese tradition, for
example, explains the multitude of Chinese restaurants and takeouts (and the traffic in chefs from the various Chinas). Pre-partition India has bequeathed a rich legacy of curries and accessories, and some richly rewarding Indian restaurants. The legendary “doubles” and the roti served up by sidewalk vendors and roti shops are local derivatives of Indian taste.
The same pattern lies behind the kebabs and tabouli of Syria and Lebanon. Both Italian and Thai cuisine have established themselves, though curiously French cooking has never really caught on.
The African tradition has consolidated itself into mainstream “creole” cooking, with its delight in rice-and-peas, stews and pelaus, callaloo and root vegetables. And while purely
Bitters pill?The world-renowned Angostura bitters is native to Trinidad & Tobago, and the company has kept its legendary recipe a secret since 1824. (For more Angostura bitters trivia, visit angosturabitters.com)
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African restaurants are still a rarity, solid creole cooking underlies many of today’s fusions and crossovers. Among the finest Creole restaurants is Veni Mangé in Woodbrook.
So in Trinidad the options range from fine dining restaurants with their sophisticated menus, décor and atmosphere, to spicy street food and the corn soup, roast corn and coconut water sold by vendors around the Queen’s Park Savannah.
In between are the more casual restaurants (but don’t mistake casualness for bad food), congenial all-day bistros like Adam’s Bagels in Maraval, American-style sports bars like Zanzibar at MovieTowne, franchises such as Subway, coffee-shops, and a whole range of fast-food chains peddling pizzas, hamburgers and fried chicken.
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Sushi has become very popular in Trinidad
ChowA ceviche of sliced green or half-ripe fruits like mango, plums, pineapple, pommerac or cucumbers, seasoned with salt, good hot pepper and maybe a little lime juice and sugar to taste. It’s been said that once it’s a fruit, a Trini can make chow out of it.
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If you are interested in sampling local food, here are some of the things you should know:
p Accra: a fritter made with flour, black-eyed peas or grated yam, flavoured with saltfish, thyme and pepper; also popular in Jamaica
p Aloo pie: spicy mashed potato filling between elongated, soft, fried breadp Barra: a soft shell made from flour, split peas and turmericp Blue food: starchy vegetables such as dasheen (blue-tinted yam), cassava, breadfruit, plantains,
yamsp Buljol: salted codfish shredded and seasoned with pepper, onions, tomatoes and olive oil, and
served in hops or bakep Callaloo: soup-like dish made from dasheen leaves (something like spinach), with okra and other
ingredients like coconut or pig-tailp Corn soup: a split peas-based soup with corn and dumplingsp Cou-cou: a mixture of cornmeal, okra and butter boiled and stirred till firm enough to be sliced;
often served with callaloop Doubles: popular Indian snack consisting of a soft, fried flour-and-split pea shell filled with curried
chick peasp Float (or fry bake): leavened dough that ‘floats’ to the top as it is cooked in hot oilp Pastelles: a Christmas specialty similar to Spanish tamales – spiced ground meat with raisins and
olives wrapped in a casing of cornmeal and steamed in banana leavesp Pelau: a one-pot dish of rice, pigeon peas and meat, often cooked in coconut milkp Pholouri: small, deep-fried balls of highly seasoned ground split peas and flour, served with spicy
chutneyp Roti: a hefty flour wrap (often with ground split peas) filled with your choice of curried vegetables
and/or meat. Sada roti is a slightly stiffer, greaseless variation, commonly served with choka and vegetables sautéed Indian-style
p Shark &bake: richly seasoned shark fillets stuffed into a fried leavened bread (bake) and dressed with pepper, garlic and chadon beni (cilantro) sauces. Since shark populations worldwide are on the decline we encourage you to replace the shark filling with kingfish, shrimp or cheese – just as delicious!
p Sorrel: a red drink made from the fruit of the same name, popular at Christmas
p Souse: boiled pork, served cold in a salty sauce with lime, cucumber, pepper and onion slices
Satlfish accra
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fast foodAll Trinis love their doubles: two fried pieces of dough (barra) filled with curried channa (chickpeas) and spiced with cucumber, mango and pepper sauce – “slight”, “medium” or “plenty” according to taste. Doubles are sold by street vendors across the country. There’s even an app (on Android) called “Eat ah Doubles”, which helps you to locate your nearest vendor whenever you have a craving.
If you are feeling adventurous, try to find the source – the little known doubles “factory” in El Socorro.
Doubles with everything
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Quick tipsp Street vendors should display an official food badge p Several good Trinidad & Tobago cookbooks are available at the better bookstores
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trinidad Fieldwork
Where to go, what to see?
Port of Spain
The Queen’s Park Savannah 1p This is the capital’s green heart, and reportedly the largest roundabout in the world. Very popular
with joggers and sports enthusiasts p On the northern side are the renovated Emperor Valley Zoo 2, the Botanical Gardens 3 with
their extraordinary collection of flora, and the President’s House 4, now being renovated p On the western side are “the Magnificent Seven” 5, a row of beautiful colonial-era buildings,
several in dire need of restoration: from south to north, Queen’s Royal College (a leading school); Hayes Court (Anglican bishop’s house); Milles Fleurs and Roomor (privately owned); Roman Catholic archbishop’s house; Whitehall (formerly the Prime Minister’s office); and Killarney or Stollmeyer’s Castle
Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
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Queen’s Royal College (one of the Magnificent Seven)
get startedp Econo Car Rentals: if you’re looking to
strike out on your own … Econo Car has been in business for over 20 years and has four offices – one at each airport plus Chaguaramas and Port of Spain. They offer free pick-up/delivery, unlimited mileage, and round-the-clock service
p Trinidad & Tobago Sightseeing Tours, founded and run since 1984 by Charles Carvalho, offers sightseeing tours, city tours, Tobago day tours, historical tours, golf trips, nature tours including mild to strenuous hikes, boat tours, diving trips, turtle-watching and birding. There are no minimum numbers for tours, which can be booked for just one person. TTST offers trips into the Caroni Bird Sanctuary at any time of day, and can arrange hotel reservations, car rentals, aircraft charter, conferencing, and cultural itineraries
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The National Museum 6p Just south of the Savannah, on upper Frederick
Street, the museum presents new collections and retrospectives, period installations, mineral and marine displays, and ethnic artefacts
p A collection of the work of 19th-century artist Jean-Michel Cazabon occupies the only temperature-regulated room, but the main hall shows most of the country’s major artists
Concert hallsp Just west of the museum is the contemporary
National Academy of Performing Arts 7, with its multiple stages and performance spaces
p The much older (but recently renovated) Queen’s Hall 8 is at the northeast corner of the Savannah
trinidad
National Academy of the Perfoming Arts (NAPA)
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The Waterfront at night
downtownp The Brian Lara Promenade 9 runs down the
middle of Independence Square, the focal point of downtown Port of Spain
p At the western end, it is bordered by the new waterfront au and ferry terminal al, overlooked by the Hyatt Regency Trinidad; at the eastern end is the (Roman Catholic) Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception am, where T&T’s many ethnicities are depicted in the stained glass
p In between are the blue semicircle of Nicholas Tower an, and the “twin towers” ao, which house the Central Bank and the Ministry of Finance
p A few blocks to the north is Woodford Square
ap, laid out by a British colonial governor nearly 200 years ago. Often used for political rallies, it is bordered by the Red House aq (the traditional seat of parliament), the Hall of Justice ar(law courts), the National Library as and the (Anglican) Holy Trinity Cathedral at
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Chaguaramas & the northwest peninsula
Fort George bup Colonial-era signal station on the crest of a ridge 335m (1,100ft) above the city (access from St James)p Cannon, a small museum, with magnificent panoramic views of the west coast
Gasparee Caves
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Chaguaramas Boardwalk boStarting at Williams Bay, this new boardwalk provides not only a pleasing stroll by the sea but new facilities – bike trails, gazebos for cooking, liming spots and rest areas. It’s ideal for roller-blading and fishing, and a great place to bring family and friends.
Chaguaramas national heritage Parkp Chaguaramas is a playground for nature-lovers and eco-
adventurers: hiking trails, historic landmarks, a military museum, a nine-hole golf course, restaurants, marinas, waterfalls, beaches (including the popular Macqueripe
dr) p Land sports (cycling, hashing, mountain biking), water
sports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, power boating, dragon-boat racing), and boats to the offshore islands
p Two highlights are the 76m (250ft) Edith Falls bl, and Morne Catherine bm, the highest peak in the area
p The area was a US military base during World War II, and several buildings survive from that time, as well as a signal station in the hills
p Offshore, the 30m (98ft) deep limestone Gasparee Caves on Gaspar Grande island (“Gasparee”) bnare breathtakingly beautiful. Tours are arranged with registered tour guides, or the Chaguaramas Development Authority
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Lopinot bqp In the Northern Range foothills, once a cocoa
estate, Lopinot now has a small museum in the former estate house, near the old slave quarters and prison
p The estate was developed by the Compte de Lopinot, who fled Haiti for Trinidad after the 1791 Haitian revolution (and is said to appear on stormy nights astride a white horse – Lopinot has featured on the popular US television show Ghost Hunters International)
p The area is now popular for sports, river bathing, cave exploration, and parang music around Christmas time
Cleaver Woods brp Just west of Arima, home to a small
Amerindian museum, with a picnic area and nature trails
National Science Centre bsp On the southern side of the highway to
Arima: hands-on exhibitions for both adults and children
galera Point, toco btp A magnificent headland, with the newly
rechristened Keshorn Walcott Toco Lighthouse at the northeastern tip of Trinidad, where the navy-blue Atlantic meets the electric-blue Caribbean Sea
Grande Rivière cup Beyond Toco, the road turns back on itself and follows the north coast westwards towards Grande
Rivière and Matelot through forested hills and valleys p The beach at Grande Rivière is a major nesting area for leatherback turtles; there’s great hiking,
bird watching, horse riding, boat trips and snorkelling
Eastward
mount St Benedict Church & monastery bpp Perched 240m (800ft) up in the Northern Range above St
Augustine and Tunapuna, the oldest Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean offers panoramic views of the Caroni plains and beyond
p Built in 1912, its 600 acres support nature trails, an art gallery and studio, a gift shop, and a guesthouse and café, as well as the central church
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Central Trinidad
Temple in the Sea, Waterloo cmp A Hindu temple built literally in the sea a short way
offshore, accessible by a causeway p Indian indentured labourer Siewdass Sadhu toiled
for decades to build this temple in the sea, after being forbidden to build on colonial land
Point Lisas cnp Trinidad’s major industrial complex sprawls along
the west coast near Couva p It houses an international port and a range of plants
fuelled by the country’s own natural gas, producing mainly steel and petrochemicals (methanol, ammonia, urea)
p Guided tours available
hanuman temple & dattatreya yoga Centre clp The distinctive 26m (85ft) statue of the Hindu god
Hanuman near Carapichaima is the tallest of its kind outside India, and towers over the Yoga Centre and mandir
Hanuman statue
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La Vega Garden Centre cop This estate in Gran Couva, home to
a range of plants and trees, is popular for picnics, kayaking, and outdoor activities
divali nagar Centre cpp The Divali Nagar site just north of Chaguanas is the venue for many Hindu activities and
performances – lectures, Indian trade fairs, cultural shows, Divali celebrations p A 12m statue of Swami Vivekananda keeps a watchful eye over the area
Chaguanas cqp Home of traditional
Indian pottery, and the site of Nobel laureate VS Naipaul’s childhood home (the Lion House)
Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust crp A magnificent 25-hectare sanctuary and breeding centre for
endangered waterfowl, with a learning centre and eco-lodge p Reservations and permission are required, because the site is
inside the Petrotrin oil refinery
Southward
San fernando hill cs p In the middle of T&T’s second city, San Fernando, this hill is
a national park despite being badly scarred by quarrying p It has magnificent views of the city, the Gulf of Paria, the
Caroni Plains and Northern Rangep There are picnic huts and a children’s play area
devil’s woodyard mud Volcano ctp Near Princes Town, and not as terrifying as its name suggests
(European settlers weren’t sure how to explain the bubbling and rumbling), this is one of many small mud “volcanoes” in the southland
p Mud volcanoes emit hot mud through a vent or fissure, propelled by methane or other gases below the surface
p Though usually quiet, the Devil’s Woodyard can occasionally produce large muddy eruptions
the Pitch Lake dup A slowly-churning lake of natural bitumen, covering
about half a square kilometre at La Brea p Natural springs, said to have healing properties,
appear at its centre during the rainy seasonp Most of the surface is hard enough to walk on p Legend has it that a tribe of Amerindians was
swallowed by the lake as punishment for eating hummingbirds, which hosted the spirits of their ancestors
p A small museum houses some (sometimes bizarre) artefacts that have been recovered from the pitch
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trinidad Banwari Trace dl
p The oldest pre-Columbian site in the West Indies, on the southern shore of the Oropouche Lagoon south of San Fernando, dating to about 5,000 BC
p Excavations have unearthed stone tools and the earliest human skeleton so far recovered anywhere in the Caribbean
p The skeleton, unearthed in 1969-70 by Peter Harris and his colleagues of the Trinidad & Tobago Historical Society, was nicknamed Banwari Man (although it’s unclear if the person was male or female)
p The remains of the Banwari burial are at the University of the West Indiesp The site probably represents one of the first settlements established by the Caribbean’s
Amerindians or First People as they migrated northwards from South America into the Caribbean islands
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Swamplandsp Trinidad’s central plain, the island’s sugar belt, supports some
of its richest ecosystems p The Caroni Bird Sanctuary dm is an extensive area of lagoon,
marshland and swamp on the northwest coast. The highlight: flocks of rare scarlet ibis flying home to roost each evening at dusk – an unforgettable sight
p Boat tours last a couple of hours from late afternoon to dusk (though T&T Sightseeing Tours operates tours all day)
p On the opposite, east coast, the Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush Wildlife Sanctuary dn is the largest swamp in either island
p You’ll need a guide and permit to explore Nariva by kayak for a glimpse of manatees in their natural habitat, anacondas, caimans, and bird life
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get startedp Kalloo’s Auto Rentals & Tours,
established in 1978, has five offices in Trinidad and one in Tobago, providing car rentals (with or without a driver), taxis and tours. Popular tours include Port of Spain, the entire island, the north coast, turtle watching, the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, and the Asa Wright centre. They also provide client-customised tours, group discounts, airport transfers and free delivery and pick-up
the northern rangep Trinidad’s lush Northern Range is a continuation of
one branch of the great South American cordilleras, rising to over 914m (3,000ft) into elfin woodland at El Tucuche and Cerro del Aripo
p Though there’s no end of exploration to be done here, most requires a good guide. The Heights of Guanapo, the Guanapo Gorge, and the La Laja and Sombasson waterfalls are big attractions. Large colonies of bats and oil birds inhabit the Aripo Caves
p The climb to El Tucuche provides a challenge for hikers. The Maracas Waterfall is an easier excursion
Asa Wright Nature Centre & Lodge dop Nestled in the hills at the head of the Arima valley, this 193-acre eco-centre and former estate house is
now a world-renowned study centre and guesthouse where visitors can see a huge variety of bird life p Originally a cocoa and coffee plantation, it was bought by an Englishman, Dr. Newcombe Wright, and
his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947, and acquired two years later by the New York Zoological Society as a research station
p After her husband’s death, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it remained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in 1967
p The Centre provides guided tours, nature trails, bird watching, a plunge pool, restaurant, and gift shop. The veranda has fantastic views down the Arima Valley, and is a great place for bird photography
p The lodge’s restaurant serves good local cuisine (reservations recommended)
p Caribbean Discovery Tours offers custom-designed nature and cultural itineraries with expert guidance though forested mountains, rivers, waterfalls, secluded beaches, wetlands and villages. The clientele includes eco-adventure and family vacationers, bird watchers, scientists, university faculty, and film and television crews. Package itineraries (including local transportation and accommodation) are available
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trinidad Take a “wine”
Wine: dance with rhythmic gyratory movements of the pelvic regionLime: sit or stand around talking with others … an informal social gathering characterised by semi-
ritualized talking (New Oxford American Dictionary)
Festivity is a state of mind in Trinidad & Tobago. We welcome any excuse for a lime. It could happen anywhere – at home, in the street, at work, in parks or parking lots. Clubs and bars are always packed, parties and mega-concerts seem to happen almost every weekend. You might be
forgiven for thinking that the weekend in Trinidad starts as early as Tuesday. And the lime par excellence, the party of all parties, is Carnival.
CarnivalThis is Trinidad’s version of the Catholic pre-Lenten festival found in New Orleans, Rio or Venice. But Trinidad’s Carnival is distinct: seeds come both from colonial France and Spain, and from the masking traditions of the African-descended population of 19th-century Trinidad, and became a genuinely popular ritual, beyond the control of the colonial elite. Now, rooted in almost two centuries of turbulent social history, Trinidad Carnival is the mother of all the West Indian-style Carnivals that flourish in North America, Europe and the Caribbean, including those of London, New York, Toronto and Miami.
Though costumed bands are hard at work year-round, the Carnival season really begins at Christmas time, with what people call “the soca switch”. Christmas music vanishes overnight, and soca artists start releasing their new singles. Calypso tents, though a dying breed, start showcasing local singers’ latest barbs.
Pan yards across the country come alive with dozens, sometimes hundreds, of musicians learning their pieces for the Panorama competition. Mas camps are abuzz with wire benders, bead and feather stickers, costume designers, and hordes of would-be masqueraders scampering to register for their section of the band (if they hadn’t already done so by the previous September) and running to the gym and the parks (and the nightly thunderous fêtes) to get themselves in shape.
Get in yuh sectionAfter weeks of partying and preparations, many enthusiasts are already running on fumes. It is survival of the fittest. On Carnival Friday the Canboulay Riots are re-enacted and traditional mas characters compete, both in Port of Spain. That night, singers vie for the International Power and Groovy Soca Monarch titles. Steelbands are the focus on Saturday night, as the bands do combat for the Panorama championship. The nation’s finest calypsonians and huge hand-made costumes take the stage on Sunday, Dimanche Gras night.
Christmas music vanishes overnight, and Calypso tents, though a dying
Pan yards across the country come alive with dozens, sometimes hundreds, of musicians learning their pieces for
Panorama competition. Mas camps are abuzz with wire benders, bead and feather stickers, costume designers, and hordes of would-be masqueraders scampering to register for their section of the band (if they hadn’t already done so by the previous September) and running to the gym and the parks (and the nightly thunderous fêtes) to get
After weeks of partying and preparations, many enthusiasts are already running on fumes. It is survival of the fittest. On Carnival Friday the Canboulay Riots are re-enacted and traditional
Port of Spain. That night, singers Soca Monarch titles.
Steelbands are the focus on Saturday night, as the bands do combat for Panorama championship. The nation’s finest calypsonians and huge
Dimanche Gras night. Blue Devil bosw
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J’ouvertAs 4am (the official start of Carnival) approaches, huge music trucks and hordes of revellers snake through the streets in outlandish costumes or just old clothes drenched in mud, oil, paint, chocolate (and little else).
monday masMasqueraders take to the streets around midday, though not in full costume. In the hills of Paramin, fearsome blue devils take over the winding mountain roads for their “devil mas”.
tuesday masTuesday is the real spectacle of colour and creativity. Some bands hold true to Carnival as street theatre, others are content to be variations of the bikini-and-beads theme. The day starts around 7am and goes until no one can go any more.
Bands like K2K offer more imaginative costumes that are closer to fashion than the usual bikini, feathers and beads
Makeup & Airbrush: Analese Redman & Barry DowdenHairstylist: Helena Berot
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Fire-eater on stage
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trinidad Carnival decoded
p Band: a costumed band parading for Carnival, or a steelband
p Calypso: indigenous Trinidadian music, with roots in West African songs of praise and mockery. Traditionally associated with satire, humour, comedy, attack and defiance; steadily losing ground to soca
p Calypso tent: venue for nightly calypso performances, recalling the literal tents where early calypso singers would perform
p Canboulay Riots: 1881 Carnival-time uprising against British colonial authorities
p Dimanche Gras: long production on Carnival Sunday night, including the Calypso Monarch and King/Queen of Carnival competitions
p Fête (pronounced fett, not the Anglicised fate): a party, anything from an exclusive house party to a public gathering of thousands; in any case with thunderous music and plenty to drink
p Limbo: sacred folk dance indigenous to Trinidad and performed at wakes; the lower the dancer could go, the higher the spirit of the dead could ascend
p Mas: short form of masquerade p Mas camp: home and workshop of a
masquerade bandp Mud mas: popular J’ouvert masquerade
similar to a mud bathp Ol’ [old] mas: the tradition of making and
wearing original J’ouvert costumes crafted from old clothes and other found materials, often making satirical statements illustrated with a punning placard
p Pan: the steel pan or steel drum is the instrument; the steelband is the orchestra; “pan” covers the entire performing culture, including the music played
p Panorama: the annual competition for steel bands; confers great prestige on the winner
p Pannist: steel pan player
p Pan yard: the open-air home and workshop of a steel band
p Play mas: to masquerade, usually in costume with a band (up to an astronomical US$1,700 in all-inclusive bands). Some bands sell out from July, but returns can be grabbed at the last minute. You don’t need a costume to be in the streets
p Pretty mas: opposite of ol’ mas or mud mas: glamorous, colourful masquerading, in mass-produced costumes, usually bikinis with lots of feathers and beads (“BBF”). More creative bands like Brian MacFarlane or K2K offer much more ambitious costumes as an alternative. In BBF bands, women vastly outnumber men (it has been estimated by ten to one)
p Road march: the song played most often as bands pass judging points on Monday and Tuesday
p Soca: fast-paced, high-energy offspring of calypso, pioneered by Ras Shorty I (Garfield Blackman) in the 70s. Trinidad’s pop music, it has absorbed traditional calypso, R&B, dancehall, hip-hop, reggaeton, house music and much else besides
p Steel pan: indigenous musical instrument developed in Port of Spain communities in the 1930s and during World War II. Traditionally made from oil drums, cut, tempered and beaten into notes. Beginning as single “ping pongs” hung around the neck and playing just a few notes, today’s pans cover the full western scale in bands topping 100 players
p Traditional/Ol’ mas characters: well-known Carnival costumed characters such as the pis-en-lit (in a nightgown with a chamber pot), the Dame Lorraine (a man in a dress with stuffed bosom and bottom, satirising bulky colonial matrons), the ominous Midnight Robber with his grandiloquent speeches, and the talkative Pierrot Grenade
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Bars & loungesBut it wouldn’t be a true fête culture if we waited until Carnival to party. You’d be hard pressed to find any corner of Trinidad without at least a basic roadside bar where you can down a six-pack while shooting pool. You’ll find loads in St James along the Western Main Road; its signature bar – Smokey & Bunty’s – is often patronised by characters who are an evening’s entertainment by themselves, particularly around Carnival time.
Beyond the basics, there are upscale bars and lounges with swanky interiors, good food (finger food or a good meal) and scintillating signature drinks. Some, like Zanzibar, feature big-screen TVs showing popular sports events; expect to come across karaoke nights, games areas with pool tables and dart boards, and special themed nights featuring performances from contemporary rock, reggae, soca, jazz, world and fusion bands.
Outside of Port of Spain, there are popular hangouts in all the major towns and suburbs like St Augustine, Trincity, Arima, Chaguanas and San Fernando. Most hotels have modern and well-equipped bars and lounges, often with great ambiance.
Parties & clubsThe tireless party market has fuelled a wave of mega-clubs whose hierarchical levels and special VIP areas are packed out all weekend. Some present popular international acts like Trinidad-born Nicki Minaj, Beyoncé, Maroon 5, One Direction, or the Marleys. The more exclusive require a strict dress code, admittance by invitation, and ID for entry.
When the market for a party or concert is too much for even the biggest clubs, mega-concerts move to huge arenas like the Queen’s Park Oval, the Centre of Excellence in San Juan, the Jean Pierre Complex, the National Stadium or the Queen’s Park Savannah. These big party and concert events are concentrated around Carnival time, public holidays, and school vacations.
But it wouldn’t be a true fête culture if we waited
& Bunty’s – is often patronised by characters who are an evening’s entertainment by themselves, particularly around
Upscale bars are well attended on weekends
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Trinidad liming on d’ avenue
It’s Friday night. Or maybe Sunday. Or Thursday. In fact, any night of the week. And you’re bored. (Is that possible?)
We Trinidadians take boredom very seriously. We have a reputation to maintain as the social mecca of the Caribbean – “liming country” – and we cannot have our reputation tarnished by anyone claiming to be bored. Not on our watch.
So find your way to Ariapita Avenue in Woodbrook, on the western edge of Port of Spain. It houses every type of nightlife and eating establishment a discerning socialite might fancy.
Locals and foreigners bar-hop together. As an added bonus, the wireless provider Bmobile has introduced its Bzone – free 4G wireless internet available almost anywhere on the Avenue to registered subscribers. With this, you can Instagram a picture of your main course, or post a video of yourself eating it to your favourite social network for the world to enjoy, in less time than it takes to swallow an olive.
So, what are you in the mood for? Dinner? Angelo’s Restaurant (Italian) is one of our very finest, known for its impeccable quality and friendly atmosphere. For local creole fusion, Veni Mangé is an
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internationally respected restaurant; it has a delightful little soup stand outside in addition to a cosy, warm dining area inside.
Want more international fusion dishes? Try Hakka, whose distinctive cuisine blends Chinese and Indian flavours. Visit Me Asia, Stir Fry King, or China Dynasty for a Chinese meal; or Mélange or Flair for international fare. Sushi has exploded in popularity in recent years, and can be enjoyed at LeVels Ultrabar, Saketini Lounge and More Vino.
Local creole food is popular of course, especially for lunch. In addition to Veni Mangé, there’s El Pecos (delicious local “pay by the pound” fare), Frankie’s, Sweet Lime, Mangoes, the Cow Heel Soup Centre, Relish, Japs Fried Chicken, Irie Bites and Yaad Food ( Jamaican), Señor Jalapeno’s (Mexican), Marble Slab (desserts), or Curry Corner (Indian).
Don’t forget the healthy stuff at Subway and Grillers. And if you’re in the mood for fast food, Wendy’s and Domino’s have branches on Ariapita Avenue.
The Avenue has its late-night street food and fast food clientele too. Roadside vendors sell local staples such as doubles (an Indian snack with fried barra and
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Trinidad curried chickpeas) and gyros (Arabic wraps with
various meats), Willy Dogs and Willy Waffles (gourmet hotdogs and waffles).
And then? Once you’ve been fed, it’s time to be watered. If you’re looking for some fun company with a few beers or cocktails, the happening bar spots
on the Avenue are Stumblin’, Coco Lounge, Crobar, Sandbar, Shakers, La Habana, Sky Bar, Frankie’s, LeVels, More Vino and Darin’s. If you like the slots and gaming tables, check out Xanadu Members Club, Ma Pau, Diamond Members Club, Players on the Avenue, Sportsman Members Club or Winners Club.
Quick tipsp Trinidadians are warm and welcoming
people. You can turn up at any of these places and strike up a conversation. But, as in any foreign place you visit, exercise realistic caution and responsibility. Not everyone is a saint, not even in Trinidad
p For security, move around in a group when you can, and don’t wander off on your own carrying large amounts of cash or sporting your gold and diamond jewellery. And do make sure you know how you’re getting back home
p Not all restaurants open every night, so it’s wise to call and/or make reservations in advance
p If you need directions or recommendations, ask waiters, bartenders, club owners, even your hotel front desk or your cab driver
p If you’re driving , be very careful where you park. There are strict parking rules in the area: the “wrecker” is the vehicle that will tow away your car if it’s illegally parked
p If you’re travelling by taxi, agree where and when your pick-up will be. Be sure of your hotel’s name, address and phone number (people have been known to forget where they are supposed to sleep), and take your driver’s contact number, just in case
Enjoy the world’s finest.
When it comes to the Rums the world enjoys, there are only two dates you need to remember...
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trinidad I want
to buy a house hereAnd why not?
Luxury home in St Clair
For nearly two decades, private and commercial properties in Trinidad became more expensive, and first-home ownership slipped out of reach of even professional
young couples embarking on families and careers. Since 2008, this situation has eased a bit as supply has overtaken demand in some sectors (e.g. expatriate rentals), and property has become rather more affordable for middle and low-income earners. Real estate investors have found themselves some great opportunities.
PricesResidential properties (including town houses and single-family homes with two or more bedrooms) can now be bought for TT$1 million (about US$160,000), which was unheard of a few years ago. Luxury apartments and townhouses and larger homes with significant square footage can start under TT$5 million (US$800,000) and, even in this economy, command over TT$20 million, though sales are a bit slower.
RentsRents for the expatriate market (mainly diplomats and executives from multinational companies) have held relatively steady, averaging US$1,500 and rising to over US$10,000 a month. Rental rates for locals can range from TT$2,000 (sometimes less for smaller properties in less popular areas) to over TT$10,000 for apartments and townhouses in gated communities.
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Beach bumming in TrinidadOur top four
maracas dpA beautiful setting, with its own semi-enclosed bay, 40 minutes from Port of Spain along the scenic north coast road. Perfect for sunbathers (just don’t lie under a well-endowed coconut tree). The water, often in shifting shades of blue and green, can sometimes be fairly rough, with strong currents (red flags indicate where unsafe bathing areas are). Behind the beach there’s great local food from vendors (including the signature dish, bake and shark); there are restrooms on site and a hotel and gas station nearby.
Mayaro dqThis beach on the Atlantic coast, the longest in the island, stretches for miles, great for long walks and sunbathing. Noted for its “chip chip” (small supposedly aphrodisiac molluscs buried in the sand), and fishermen “pulling seine” (pulling in fishing nets) in the evening. Mayaro is popular for long weekends (it’s 90–120 minutes from Port of Spain) and public holidays, when Trinidadians flock to vacation homes and guesthouses. The currents and undertow can be surprisingly strong, so take serious care when in the water.
Macqueripe drSmall, secluded and recently renovated, this bay on the north coast of the Chaguaramas peninsula, 20 minutes from Port of Spain, provides some of the best swimming and snorkelling in Trinidad. There isn’t too much space to tan on the small strip of coarse golden sand, but diving into the emerald green water will more than make up for it. There is a large parking lot, and changing room facilities; but carry refreshments and gear with you.
Grande Rivière cuThis small, friendly north coast fishing village, two hours or more from Port of Spain, is perfect for a weekend getaway, particularly if you like the outdoors. Between March and August, its placid main beach becomes the second largest leatherback turtle nesting ground in the world. The area is great for bird watching, river bathing, hiking and kayaking. There are hotels, guesthouses and cottages for rent, and facilities at the beach.
Maracas Bay
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Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
Luxury home in St Clair
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The best of the rest
The north coastp Blanchisseuse: ds a popular weekend getaway, about an hour from Port of Spain. Hiking trails
lead to the nearby waterfall, into the rainforest, and along the as-yet-unpaved north coast towards Matelot. Guesthouses and holiday homes are available for rent. The Marianne River that flows into the bay is great for kayaking
p Las Cuevas: dt a short drive beyond Maracas, with good bathing, calmer water, and small caves at the far end. Facilities include a snack bar, car park, tables, benches, lifeguards, and changing rooms with showers and toilets
p Sans Souci:eu between Toco and Grande Rivière, this is a slightly sloping bay with choppy waves, and a favourite with surfers
p Scotland Bay: el this sheltered and secluded bay at the tip of Chaguaramas is accessible only by boat. Its calm clear water is especially good for snorkelling and swimming
p Tyrico: em right next door to Maracas (at the eastern end), usually much quieter, so it’s a great alternative if you’re a bit agoraphobic, especially since you’re still a stone’s throw away from Maracas’ amenities
The east coastp Balandra: en sheltered, and good
for swimming, even bodysurfing at the rougher end of the bay
p Manzanilla: eo the northern extension of Mayaro: the road wanders through coconut plantation (the Cocal) along the shore. Perfect for sunbathing. There is a large estuary where the Nariva River meets the sea, with a few guesthouses and holiday homes for rent nearby. Some facilities at the northern end, and lifeguards in some areas
p Matura: ep rough waters discourage swimming, but between March and August this is a popular and important leatherback turtle nesting site
p Paria:eq turtles also come ashore in season at this pristine bay. It’s a great site for bird watching, but accessible only by hiking or by boat. There are waterfalls and rocky pools nearby
p Saline (“Sally”) Bay: er the official name is Saline Bay, but it’s often called Sally Bay, so is often confused with Salybia Bay further north. But it’s good for swimming, with clear water and facilities on site
p Salybia:es a popular bay for surfing (November–April), and ideal for swimming between June and September. There’s a fringing reef off the eastern end, unusual for Trinidad. Beach facilities have recently been built
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The south & southwestp Columbus & Cedros Bays:etfu on the southwestern peninsula, a longish drive from Port of
Spain – but both are irresistible in good weather. Cedros has the widest beach on the island at low tide. These pristine bays and quiet fishing villages have wonderful views of the southwest coast and (on clear days) neighbouring Venezuela. There are no facilities but, this being Trinidad, there are food and drink establishments nearby
p Granville Beach: fl a short drive north of Cedros. The road to the beach is an adventure in itself – but have faith, keep following the signs. Lengthy stretch of sand and shallow water at low tide. Granville is popular at weekends and for Ash Wednesday Carnival cool-down parties
p Quinam: fm the most popular south coast beach, about a mile long. The water is calm and good for swimming, and the sand is fine and brown, though it disappears at high tide. A favourite for family weekend outings, with some amenities and trails into the woods
p Vessigny: fn quiet during the week (usually), most weekends it becomes a venue for beach parties and excursions. Changing rooms, picnic tables and a snack bar open at weekends and during school holidays
Quick tipsp Industrialisation near Chaguaramas, Point
Lisas and Point Fortin may contaminate otherwise pristine beaches
p Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm, but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areas
p Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential – tropical sun can quickly give a bad sunburn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats
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o Where to stay?The southern tip of Tobago is where hotels and resorts are thickest on the ground – perfect if
you like lots of activity and company. If you prefer to get away from the crowds, head for the nearby coasts – Mount Irvine, Lowlands, Tobago Plantations. The further north you go, the
more tranquil accommodation tends to get.
Crown Pointp This is the hub of tourist activity, with restaurants, shopping,
beautiful beaches (Store Bay, Pigeon Point), historical sites and the airport all in walking distance of most properties
p Crown Point also offers the most options: beach/inland, hotel/apartment, restaurant/self-catering, upscale/budget, etc.
p The self-contained apartments at Belleviste, for example, would be a good choice for self-catering aficionados, while Tropikist Beach Resort would suit those who prefer hotel-style service and on-site restaurant
Scarboroughp Accommodation in
Scarborough, less appealing for vacationers hankering for a beach, may suit business travellers with work to do in town
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www.stonehavenvillas.comBlack Rock, Tobago • Tel: (868) 639 0361
& The Pavilion Restaurant
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The villa optionp If you’re travelling with a group and sharing
costs, a villa can be a luxurious but very affordable option
p At the high end you can live like royalty, though the simpler, cottage-style properties are very congenial too
p Apart from spectacular ocean or mountain views and elegant neocolonial design, services like airport transfers and tours are often included
p Villas are always a popular choice for wedding ceremonies and wedding parties
p Typically, a villa will supply staff to cook for you, or you can opt to cater for yourself
p Top-quality villas include those at the Seahorse Inn, Tobago Plantations (the luxurious Villa Sans Souci, and the condos, villas and bungalows at SugarMill Suites), and the Villas at Stonehaven and Plantation Beach Villas, both between Mount Irvine and Black Rock
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themed holidaysTobago is a destination noted for bird watching, diving, and a variety of eco and outdoor pursuits. Conveniently, these tend to be grouped in specific areas.
p Diving enthusiasts tend to head straight for the northeast, towards Speyside and Charlottevillep Golfers like to be near Mt Irvine or Tobago Plantations in Lowlandsp Nature lovers look outside the touristy southwest, heading instead for inland properties near the
Main Ridge Forest Reserve, or further up the Caribbean coastp Wedding parties tend to opt for the island’s upscale villas p Anyone interested in a therapeutic holiday, a break to regroup and recharge the batteries,
eventually discovers Kariwak Village (which describes itself as a “holistic haven” and pioneered this sort of vacation in Tobago), where yoga, tai-chi, ozone and photon light therapies etc., are on offer
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Yoga ajoupa at Kariwak Village
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o Bargain huntingp In 2012, hotel rooms averaged US$125 a
night, guesthouses $65p Discounted rates and packages are often
available, particularly in the current global economic climate
p Peak season is December–April (expect higher rates); prices also increase sharply around Carnival time
p Last-minute rooms are often available, but make sure you book ahead for any international events and conferences, or traditionally popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas and New Year, the Jazz Festival, and holiday weekends when Trinidadians and expats flock to Tobago to unwind
p Visit gotrinidadandtobago.com and visittobago.gov for current deals and offers
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STUNNING BEACHFRONT PROPERTIES FOR SALE
Beautiful Homes & Land for saleVacation Villa Rentals
www.abrahamrealty.comEmail: [email protected]
Tel: 868-639-3325
Whether you desire a luxury ocean frontvilla or a small retirement cottage…
or simply wish to spend your vacation inparadise, we’ll find “your place in the sun”
Owning your piece of paradiseIt’s not unusual for people to fall in love with Tobago
and not want to leave. And why not? For a tropical holiday home, a retirement home, even a permanent
home, you could do a lot worse than Tobago’s “clean, green and serene” surroundings.
Tobago’s glowing reputation led to a rapid increase in property investment in the 1990s and early 2000s. Demand slowed somewhat in 2007 when Tobago began to get worried about the large number of non-nationals buying land and property, and introduced a licensing regime, which in practice put a temporary hold on buying. But by 2010 licences were being issued, though there’s reportedly a bit of a backlog.
The market includes single-family homes, townhouses, duplexes, villas by the golf course and luxury mansions. Properties at the lower end of the scale, like a single-family home or a smaller villa, begin at around TT$1 million (US$160,000), while at the upper end a luxury villa might cost up to TT$25 million (US$4 million). There are sometimes bargains to be had, though, especially from anyone needing to sell quickly.
Get startedp Abraham Tobago Realty: broker/owner Brian
Abraham has over 35 years’ of real estate experience in North America and Tobago. His company offers a large selection of properties for sale and for rent, as well as a comprehensive property management service
p Caribbean Estates, Lands & Villas: since 2000, the Caribbean Estates team has provided a one-stop-shop for those in the market for house and land sales, commercial properties, villa rentals and property management
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o Tobago by nightFood, drink and play
Tobago is blessed with some memorable restaurants, and a good solid menu of its own, as well as international and fusion dishes. Dining is often al fresco, taking advantage of the breeze, the landscape and the hillside or seaside views.
Beyond the hotels, most of the fine dining establishments are in the island’s touristy southwestern tip – Crown Point, Mt Irvine and Buccoo. Scarborough and the northeast are your second best bets. Roadside eateries serve home-style Tobagonian dishes, and trendy sports bars are always an option.
Tobago’s own specialities are fresh seafood, including lobster and crab, and its signature dish, curried crab and dumplings. Don’t leave without sampling them (and we defy you to risk a second helping). There are freshly squeezed local fruit juices to wash it down with, and some intriguing Tobagonian sweets and desserts to follow.
The Seahorse Inn Restaurant & Bar in Black Rock has been featured on the UK’s Richard & Judy Show (GMTV) and the Travel Channel, and with good reason: there’s a little something for any taste – seafood to steaks, local creole to international and fusion. Being beside the beach, the restaurant enjoys ocean breezes and a view of Stonehaven’s sand, where at night giant leatherbacks come ashore to nest (March–August). There’s nightly live entertainment at peak times of year. Sipping cocktails at the bar, then diving into a three-course meal under the stars, makes for a memorable and romantic evening.
Delicious pelau made with freshly caught fish
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NightlifeYes, you’re right. Tobago is pretty laid-back. But when the sun goes down, it isn’t as sleepy as you might think.
Bars & clubsp Cocktails, live entertainment, great food, dancing into the wee hours of the morning … You don’t
have to go far to find a bar, club, or restaurant that suits you p Happy hour is a good way to get the evening going (and few places offer it with the views and
ambience of the Pavilion Restaurant or Seahorse Inn) p If you’re into music and there are no big festivals or events going on, then bars, clubs, hotels and
restaurants will often present local musical acts, mostly local headliners in a range of musical styles p BarCode, The Shade, G-Spot and The Deep are popular spots in the southwest
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MoviesThe MovieTowne multiplex at Gulf City Lowlands Mall is the island’s only cinema
Dinner theatreItsy Bitsy Folk Theatre presents dinner theatre several Tuesdays during the year
Sunday Schoolp Sundays are a no-contest. (It’s OK, you can leave your
prayer book at home.) Each weekend, Tobago parties its way into the new week. All roads lead to Buccoo and its famous Sunday School street party
p Sunday School is a drama in two acts. The first, say 9–11pm, is largely for visitors, with steelpan music from the Buccaneers and dozens of craft, food and even gambling stalls filling the street
p Then, from around 11pm, the local crowd begins to swell and DJ music continues in the beach facility and the neighbouring Hendrix Original Sunday School until the party dies out
p On a good night that could mean 5am, so you need to be fit to make it through to the end
Visual artsp There is a small but lively
visual arts community in Tobago. German-born Luise Kimme displays her wood and bronze sculptures at her gallery/atelier in Bethel. The Tobago Museum (639-3970) at Fort King George in Scarborough exhibits local artists
p Several locations show and sell local art, including the Supervilles’ The Art Gallery; Horizons; D’Art Yard; Tobago Fine Art; and Café Iguana
Harvest festivalsDuring the year, Tobago’s villages take it in turns to host a thanksgiving Harvest Festival. This involves a church service followed by a lavish cookup: villagers open their homes to all. Some of the biggest festivals take place in Charlotteville, Mount St George and Delaford.
folk traditionsp Moriah wedding: this is the signature event of the Tobago
Heritage Festival. It harkens back to the colonial era – the groom sporting his stovepipe hat and tailcoat, and the bride with her trousseau on her head. The wedding party processes slowly to church and on to the reception with the distinctive Tobago three-step “brush back”
p Tambrin: quintessential Tobagonian music, driven by three shallow goatskin tambrin drums (high-pitched cutter, roller, and boom bass), fiddle, and steel triangle. Accompanies social events
p Reel, Jig: indigenous dances from Pembroke, with roots in West African rituals invoking the ancestors, and accompanied by tambrin music. Libations are offered at the beginning of reels
p Saraka: the Saraka (or Salaka) feast is held in Pembroke during the Tobago Heritage Festival
p Speech bands: a Tobago Carnival tradition, featuring a cast of costumed characters speechifying in rhymeBele dancer performs at the
Tobago Heritage Festival
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Yes, Tobago is small. You can drive right around it in a day if you really want to, even within its 32 mph speed limit. But that would be quite contrary to the spirit of the place. Serendipity – the art of coming across things by chance in a happy and fortunate sort of way – is a better approach
to discovering Tobago. Here are some of the things you might stumble on …
From Crown Point up the Leeward (Caribbean) coast
Copper-rumped hummingbird (Amazilia tobaci)
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p Fort Milford: 1 a perfect spot in Crown Point for enjoying a Tobago sunset. The fort was built in 1777 by the British, and the evening light glows pleasantly on the few surviving cannon and the crumbling walls
p Kimme Museum (“The Castle”): 2 the workshop and gallery of German sculptor Luise Kimme, best known for her larger-than-life Tobago dancers and folklore characters hand-carved from wood. Located in Bethel, open Sundays 10am–2pm, with a small entrance fee
Numbers in the text refer to the relevant map pages 116–128
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p Fort Bennett: 3 a beautiful lookout point by the sea, built in 1778, and now spruced up with a little pavilion and small garden
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p Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary: 4a former cocoa estate which, after 1963’s Hurricane Flora, evolved into a bird sanctuary; the birds are fed at the Copra House around 4pm. Nature trails, scenic hiking, bird watching
Fort Milford
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o p Plymouth: 5 on the edge of this little west-coast town the modernist Courland Monument (1976) commemorates 17th-century settlers from Courland, now part of Latvia (it’s a long story). Another British ruin, Fort James, stands on the headland. Tour guides eagerly show visitors the Mystery Tombstone, whose occupant Betty Stivens seems to have been a perfect mother and wife except for the misfortune of dying in childbirth. The cryptic inscription reads in part: “She was a mother without knowing it, and a wife without letting her husband know it, except by her kind indulgences to him ...”
p Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: 6 just beyond Plymouth: tropical fruit, birdlife, a butterfly garden, shelter for endangered species
p Arnos Vale: 7 a little further on, this former sugar estate is rich with birdlife; the beach and offshore reef at the Arnos Vale Hotel offer exceptional snorkelling. The 1857 Arnos Vale Waterwheel that powered the estate’s mill is still there. Includes nature trails, an Amerindian site, and the remains of an old slave village
p Cuffie River Nature Retreat: 8 a little way inland, this is a place for real nature lovers, with great bird watching, nature tours, and an easily accessible river
p Castara: 9 memorable snorkelling and views in this quiet village. The beach is a lovely stretch of palm-lined sand with clear, calm water, and two beachside bars
p Main Ridge & Forest Reserve: inland, the Main Ridge runs down two-thirds of the island, reaching 1,890 feet at its highest point. It was the first protected Crown Reserve in the western hemisphere (1776). A good, scenic road runs across the Ridge from Bloody Bay to Roxborough, giving access to forest trails like Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to a small waterfall
Scarborough
p Fort King George: au Tobago’s most important colonial fort, named after King George III, stands high above Scarborough, with some of its buildings still intact. It houses the Tobago Museum (early Amerindian and colonial collections). You can see why the squabbling French and British chose the spot – it commands the approaches to Scarborough, with views over much of the windward coast
p Botanical Gardens: al extensive sloping grounds with majestic trees and captivating views: a quiet escape from the bustle of Scarborough among brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees, and royal palms
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Argyle Falls
p Scarborough Mall: am in the heart of Lower Scarborough, opposite the docks: banks, post office, library, pharmacies, bus station, etc. The Scarborough Market, next to the Mall, is the place for fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods, especially on Friday and Saturday mornings
p Rockly Bay an, effectively Scarborough’s natural harbour, was the scene of two horrendous naval battles in 1677 between fleets of French and Dutch warships, and the sea bed is supposedly strewn with wrecks and remnants. The first serious excavations may well produce some interesting discoveries in the coming months
From Scarborough up the windward (Atlantic) coast
p Granby Point: ao a relaxing stop-off point on your way up the windward coast. The colonial fort was named after John Manners, the Marquis of Granby, a British military hero of the Seven Years’ War; it offered protection to Tobago’s former capital, Georgetown
p Richmond Great House: aq this quiet and charming Great House (1776) has been attractively restored to function as a guesthouse/hotel and restaurant. It houses an extensive collection of African art
p King’s Bay: as once a large Carib settlement. The water is calm and warm, and there are beach facilities. King’s Bay Waterfall can be reached via a trail on the opposite side of the road; the falls may be dry if there’s been little rain
p Speyside: at Tobago’s diving centre, and the departure point for Little Tobago, the island bird sanctuary off the northeast coast. Magnificent views from the Speyside Lookout just before the descent into the town. Tourist office, good dive shops, watersports operators, good restaurants
p Flagstaff Hill:bu almost the northernmost tip of Tobago, reached via an unpaved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville. It was the site of an American military lookout and radio tower during World War II. The view is panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and the village of Charlotteville
p Charlotteville: bl legendary for its peace and beauty, lying at the foot of a steep hill at the end of the Windward Road, on the shore of Tobago’s finest natural harbour, Man-o’-War Bay. Like Speyside, Charlotteville is an excellent dive centre with its own dive shops. The beach is great for swimming, with beach facilities at the southern end
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see reefs and corals and fish without getting wet. They’re suitable for all ages and fitness levels. The most popular tours include Buccoo Reef bm and the intriguingly named Nylon Pool bn, and the other-worldly Coral Gardens with their staghorn, star coral sea fans (departures from Store Bay and Pigeon Point). From Speyside and Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay beach, boats visit the reefs and the offshore islands
Produce from Tobago Cocoa Estate
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p Hiking & biking trails: the Main Ridge forest is great hiking country, criss-crossed by ancient hill and forest trails. Biking enthusiasts who prefer easy trails head for the boardwalk in Lowlands, but there are much tougher mountain trails accessible only on foot (with spectacular views)
p Offshore islands: some of the very best places for bird watching. The imposing frigate birds circling high above the ocean roost on St Giles. Rare red-billed tropicbirds nest between December and July on Little Tobago bo. Boat tours start in Speyside
Tobago Cocoa Estate:ap a working cocoa plantation and heritage park, where visitors can take part in the fermentation and drying processes. Once considered a dying art, these techniques are being revitalised for the first time since Hurricane Flora wrecked Tobago’s cocoa industry in 1963
p Tobago was voted the world’s top eco-tourism destination (World Travel Awards, 2003)
p Buccoo Reef was designated a nationally protected marine area in 1973p Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon br is the island’s first Ramsar Site
(i.e. recognised as a wetland of international importance); the system includes the inshore coral reefs and the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds, where the rare green sea turtle is sometimes sighted
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Tobago has:p over 220 recorded bird speciesp 133 species of butterflies (including the impressive blue emperor)p 25 species of snake (none of them poisonous)p 17 species of batsp 14 species of frogp 12 species of mammalsp 5 species of marine turtles (including the endangered giant
leatherback)p 6 species of lizard
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p Snorkelling & diving: there’s something suitable for anyone, regardless of their age or level of expertise. Drift snorkelling and diving in coastal areas minimises damage to the living reefs. In addition to the multitude of tropical fish, manta rays may glide silently beside divers in November to June
p Waterfalls: experienced guides will take you to the three-tiered Argyle Falls bp near Roxborough (there is an entrance fee). Visitors to Rainbow Waterfall bq can study cultivation techniques and (literally) share in the fruits of their labour
p Watersports: the early months of the year are specially good for sailing … Pigeon Point, Mt Irvine and Charlotteville are popular spots for kitesurfing, kayaking, and windsurfing … for surfboarding, head for Mt Irvine and Grange Bay … and for kitesurfing, Little Rockly Bay
The entrance to the charming village of Speyside aria
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get startedp Frankie’s Tours & Rentals (Tobago): with nearly 25 years’ experience, Michael Frank’s strong
team and fleet of boats and buses can provide tours for bird watchers and hikers, island tours, snorkelling, even dolphin watching. Frank’s evening cruise offers unlimited cocktails, a buffet, the chance to watch roosting birds flying in over tranquil lagoons, and a dip in the Nylon Pool. He also operates an extensive fleet of rental cars and vans
p Plantation Beach Watersports/Sail Tobago: here, you can book an all-inclusive boat cruise on theIsland Girl, a 43-foot catamaran that sails up Tobago’s western coast in a convivial Caribbean atmosphere. A day of great sailing with friendly and professional crew and some fantastic snorkelling (equipment supplied) plus an open bar and buffet lunch
p Sherman’s Auto Rentals & Ground Tours (Tobago): Sherman’s boasts top-notch customer service including accommodation arrangements; airport transfers; vehicle exchange and maintenance; collision damage waiver; free eighth day with seven days’ rental; free weekly maintenance; and a 24-hour emergency service
Quick tipsp It would be a shame to spoil your tour by running out of gas (petrol). Most gas stations are in southern
urban areas, and the further north you go, the scarcer they are. So make sure to top up your tank before setting off
p If you plan to drive into the mountains or off-road, especially if it’s wet, a 4WD vehicle is recommendedp Drive with extra caution at night, and don’t expect much street lighting p If you’re renting, choose the smallest vehicle to suit your needs; drive within the speed limit; don’t let
your car idle. It all helps the conservation cause
Iguana dining on a hibiscus flower
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Life is a beachTobago is a dream for beach-lovers, especially along its Caribbean coast. Sunbathing on white
coral sand, watersports of every description, clear crystal water, offshore reefs and sandbars … Imagine your perfect beach getaway, then write “Tobago” underneath.
Store Bay
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Pigeon Point bsp Near Crown Point and close to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, this is probably
Tobago’s most popular and most photographed beach p There’s a US$3 entrance fee and a lengthy road into the Heritage Park of which the
beach is a part (so it’s probably best to go with a vehicle), but it’s worth your while when you get there
p The beach scores high for accessibility, cleanliness, amenities (including ample food and drink, and bathroom facilities), safety, sunbathing, watersports, and clear shallow water that makes swimming and snorkelling a dream
p Glass-bottom boat trips to the Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool begin here, and several watersports have equipment for hire
Pigeon Point
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Store Bay btp Another exquisite bay, in the heart of Crown Pointp The strong draws are generally calm, clear water, perfect for swimming; the recently upgraded
amenities on site – shopping stalls (souvenirs and craft items); food and drink; bathrooms; lifeguards; and umbrellas and beach chairs for hire
p Glass-bottom boat tours leave twice a day for Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Poolp Its location and popularity with beach-goers and vendors means that Store Bay can get a bit
crowded
Englishman’s Bay cup Reached via a dirt road off the Northside Road (keep your eyes peeled for the sign), this quiet,
crescent-shaped beach is one of the island’s best-kept secrets p Hidden away from the main road, its half-mile of powdery golden sand is hugged by lush
vegetation (including manchineel trees – be careful not to touch them)p Snorkelling is great here, and there’s a wonderful, unassuming little restaurant serving up delicious
local food. There’s also some useful craft shopping
Bloody Bay clp Its name recalls a colonial-era battle, but today this is one of Tobago’s most peaceful and unspoilt
beaches p Changing rooms, picnic tables and bathroom facilities have been installed, and lifeguards keep an
eye on swimmers
Bloody Bay
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Crown Point & the Caribbean coast
p Back Bay: cm a wonderfully secluded small bay between Mt Irvine and Grafton, accessed via a cliffside trail. Good for body surfing, tanning and snorkelling. It’s isolated, so go in a group
p Buccoo: cn this narrow fishing beach is the centre of the action for goat and crab racing at Easter time. There’s a small beach bar on site
p Canoe Bay: co a five-minute drive down a dirt road off the Milford Road, this scenic bay has a calm, shallow beach and an air of serenity. Tobago’s calmest and shallowest bathing beach, it’s perfect for young families. Rarely crowded, the excellent facilities include a bar and beachfront cabanas; there is a small entrance fee
p Castara: cp a quiet and unspoilt beach in a friendly fishing village, with calm water and fine golden sand. You might see fishermen hauling in their nets (“pulling seine”) or bread baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens. Facilities include a restaurant, stores and craft stalls, and there’s accommodation nearby
Speyside
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p Grange Beach (aka The Wall): cq just past the Mt Irvine Golf Course cr, this is a good beach for swimming and a popular spot for afternoon dips
p Great Courland Bay (aka Turtle Beach): cs this long, sandy stretch is a nesting place for leatherback turtles during the season (March to August), as is Stonehaven Bay
p King Peter’s Bay: ct quiet and calm, with dark sand. Good snorkelling
p Mt Irvine: du a pair of beaches with excellent facilities, snorkelling and surfing. Surfers flock here in season (November–May) and when tropical storms are in the region, anticipating the perfect swell. The hotel side offers refreshments and beach amenities (a bar, restaurant, lifeguards, watersports and tour operations), and is ideal for swimming and snorkelling. Watersports gear can be hired on site
p Parlatuvier: dl fishing village with a tranquil beach and a few snackettes
p Stonehaven Bay: dm a magnificent, rugged dark-sand beach with good facilities. The area is home to some of Tobago’s more luxurious resorts and villas
The Atlantic coast
p Bacolet: dn close to Scarborough, and used as a location in the 1960s movie Swiss Family Robinson, this dark-sand beach is popular with surfers
p Bellevue: do reached from the Belle Garden Bay Road junction, the waters here are calm by windward-side standards
p Granby Point: ao a windswept, dark-sand beach with the remains of a colonial fort
p King’s Bay: as a long, picturesque stretch with calm water and good facilities, including showers, lifeguards and shaded cabanas. A good place to buy fresh fish and watch the traditional “pulling seine”
p Little Rockly Bay: dr a scenic stretch running along the old coast road, with crashing waves and Atlantic Ocean views. The area has several accommodation options, as well as restaurants and hangouts
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p Man-o’-War Bay: ds in the serene village of Charlotteville, at the northern tip of Tobago: ideal for swimming, with cottages, guesthouses and eateries nearby. The village is the main venue for the Fishermen’s Festival in June
p Pirate’s Bay: dt a stunning beach with crystal-clear water and a fabulous view; accessed via dirt track from the end of the Charlotteville seafront, or by sea
p Richmond Beach: eu a quiet, pretty beach near a river mouth
p Speyside & Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay: el sandy beaches within swimming distance of the reef. Speyside and Blue Waters offer tranquillity and great snorkelling. Glass-bottom boat trips to Angel Reef, Goat Island and Little Tobago start here. Speyside itself, Tobago’s dive capital, has a tourist office, watersports facilities, varied accommodation, and several good restaurants
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Quick tipsp Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am–5pm or 10am–6pm,
but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing areasp Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential – tropical
sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still health threats
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aAccommodation 50-59, 90-96Adventure Farm & Nature
Reserve 102Airbridge 9Airlines 6, 9Airports 6Amerindian Heritage Day 23Angostura Bitters 61Argyle Falls 106Ariapita Avenue 80Arima Borough Day 20Aripo Caves 75Arnos Vale 102Asa Wright Nature Centre 75Athletics 47ATM, ABM 7
BBack Bay 112Bacolet 113Bake & shark 60, 63Balandra 86Banwari Trace 74Basketball 47Beaches
Trinidad 85–87Tobago 108–115
Best Village Competition 20Bicycles 8Blanchisseuse 86Bloody Bay 111Blue Devils 76Blue Food Festival 23Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay 114Body building 47Boldon, Ato 12Bon Accord Lagoon 105Botanical Gardens 66, 102Bovell, George III 12Brian Lara Promenade 69Buccoo 112Buccoo Reef 104, 105Buses 8
Bush bath 8Business 28Business hotels 50
CCalendar of Events 14–26Calypso 78Canoe Bay 112Carnival 14, 76–78Caroni Bird Sanctuary 74Car rentals 8Castara 112Cedros 87Celebrities 12Cerro del Aripo, El 75Chacachacare 44Chaguanas 72Chaguaramas 70Charlotteville 103Chinese New Year 14Chow 62Christmas 26Cleaver Woods 71Climate 11Cocoa 28, 104Columbus Bay 87Commissiong, Janelle
(“Penny”) 12Conferences & Conventions 29Courland Monument 102Cove Eco-Industrial Estate 28Crawford, Hasely 12Cricket 47Crown Point 90Cruise Ships 6Cuisine 60-65Currency 7Cycling 47
dDance 32Derby 22, 48Devil’s Woodyard 73
Dimanche Gras 78Divali 24Divali Nagar 17, 24, 72Diving 37, 38, 44, 94, 106Doubles 63, 64–65Dragon boat racing 47Driving 7, 107
eEaster 16Economy 28Edith Falls 70Eid-ul-Fitr 20, 21Electricity 7Ellerslie Plaza 40El Tucuche 75Emancipation Day 20Emergencies 10Emperor Valley Zoo 66Englishman’s Bay 111Entry requirements 6Events, see Calendar of Events
fFalls at West Mall, The 40Fashion 32Fast food 62Ferries 9Festivals 14–24Fête 58, 78Film 22, 33, 99Fisherman’s Fest 18Fitzwilliam, Wendy 12Flagstaff Hill 103Flora, Hurricane 105Folk traditions 99Food, local 60–65, 98Football 48Fort Bennett 101Fort George 70Fort King George 102Fort Milford 100
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gGalera Point 71Game fishing 46, 104Ganga Dhaara River Festival 18Gasparee Caves 70Gaspar Grande (Gasparee) 70Get started 67, 75, 107Glass-bottom boats 104Golf 45Government 11Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary 101Granby Point 103, 113Grand Bazaar 7, 40Grande Rivière 85, 86Grange Beach (“The Wall”) 113Granville Beach 87Great Courland Bay 113Great Fête Weekend 18Great Race, Carib 20, 47Guanapo Gorge 75Gulf City Lowlands 40, 99Gulf City Mall 7Gyms 44
hHall of Justice 69Hanuman Temple 72Harvest festivals 14–24, 99Hasely Crawford Stadium 47Hashing 48Headley, Heather 12Heights of Guanapo 75Highest points 11Hiking 39, 48, 104Hockey 48Holder, Geoffrey 12Holi 15Horse racing 48Horse riding 44Hosay 26
iIndependence Day 20
Indian Arrival Day 17International Gospel Festival 22Investment 28
JJames, CLR 12Jazz 16Jean Pierre Complex 47Jewellery 32, 43J’ouvert 77
kKayaking 45Kimme Museum 100King George V Park 45King’s Bay 103, 113King’s Bay Waterfall 103King Peter’s Bay 113
LLabour Day 18La Brea 73La Divina Pastora 17Lara, Brian 12La Ronde, Giselle 12Las Cuevas 86La Vega Garden Centre 72Lime, liming 58, 80Lionfish 44Literature 34Little Rockly Bay 113Little Tobago 106LNG (liquefied natural gas) 28Location 11Long Circular Mall 40Lopinot 71
mMacqueripe 85Magnificent Seven 66, 67Mail 7
131discovertnt.com
Main Ridge, Tobago 102, 104Man-o’-War Bay 45, 114Manzanilla 86Maps 116–128Maracas Bay 22Maracas Open Water Swim Classic 22Maracas Waterfall 75Martial arts 48Matura 86Mayaro 85Media 7Methanol 28Minaj, Nicki 12Minshall, Peter 12Morne Catherine 70Motor sports 48Mountain biking 48Mount Irvine Bay 113Mount St Benedict 71Muhtadi International Drumming Festival 20Music 33, 42Mystery Tombstone 102
nNaipaul, Sir Vidia 12Nariva Swamp 74National Academy of Performing Arts 68National Library 34, 69National Museum 68National Science Centre 71Nightlife 80–82, 98–99Noel, Claude 12Northern Range 75Nylon Pool 110, 111
oOcean, Billy 12Osun River Festival 20
PPan 76, 78Panorama competition 76
Pan yard 76, 78Paramin Parang Festival 26Parang 22, 26Paria 86Parlatuvier 113, 115Petrochemicals 28Phagwa 15Pigeon Point 110Pirate’s Bay 114Pitch Lake 73Plymouth 102Point Lisas 28, 72Pointe-à-Pierre 45, 47Pointe-à-Pierre Wild Fowl Trust 72Point Fortin Borough Day 16Population 11Port of Spain 66–69Portuguese Man-o’-War 39President’s House 66
QQueen’s Hall 68Queen’s Park Oval 47, 79Queen’s Park Savannah 66Quinam Bay 87
rRamleela 23Real estate 84, 97Recycling 39Red House 69Reefs 38Regatta 14, 45Republic Day 22Restaurants
Trinidad 60–63Tobago 98
Richmond Beach 114Richmond Great House 103Robinson, Arthur NR 12Rockly Bay 103Roti 63Roxborough 102, 106
132
index
Rudder, David 33
SSailing 45Sally Bay 86Salybia 86San Fernando Hill 73Santa Rosa Festival 20Scarborough 90Scarborough Mall 103Scotland Bay 86Security 10Shopping 40–43Snorkelling 106, 111Soca 78Soca Monarch 14, 76Speyside 103, 114Spiritual Shouter Baptists 15Sports 44–48Sport fishing 46Steel pan 78St Giles Islands 106St James 18, 26, 79Stonehaven Bay 113Store Bay 108–109, 111Street food 62, 65Sunday School 43, 99Surfing 46Swamplands 74
tTaxes 7Taxis 8Telecommunications 7Telephones 7Television 7Temple in the Sea 72Tennis 45Theatre 34, 99Tobago 88
Accommodation 90Beaches 108–115Capital 11
Carnival 14Entertainment 98–99Houses of Assembly 13Real Estate 97Touring 100–107
Tobago Carnival Regatta 45Tobago Cocoa Estate 104Tobago Fest 22Tobago Heritage Festival 18,
99Tobago Museum 99, 102Tobago Underwater Carnival
18, 38Touring 66–75, 100–107Tourism 28Tour operators 8
see also Get startedTransport 8–9Triathlon 17, 47Trincity Mall 40Trinidad 50
Accommodation 50–59Beaches 85–87Carnival 76Dining out 60–65Name 7Real Estate 84Where to go, what to see?Touring 66–75
Trinidad & Tobago 6Capitals 11Climate 11Coat of arms 12Festivals 14–28Flag 9Government 11Highest point 11History 13Language 11Location 11National flower 15Population 11Size 11Time zone 11
Turtle Beach 113
Turtles 36, 37
VValsayn Plaza 40Vessigny Beach 87Villas 92Visual arts 35, 99
wWalcott, Keshorn 12Water 7Waterfalls 106Watersports 47, 106Weddings 49Williams, Dr Eric 12Woodford Square 69
yYorke, Dwight 12
2013
2013
