Commonly Used Irrigation Methods with CA Native Plants

Method Description Advantages Disadvantages Best Used for

Hand watering with hose

Area is watered by letting a hose run at a low rate for a period of time

Cheap Simple; no moving parts Flexible; use/move as needed Leaves kept dry Low water pressure not a

problem

Requires convenient spigots* Takes time

Zone 2** with well-drained soils (not sand)

Zone 3 (around a pond) Pots or planters with

raised edges to allow flooding

Rain gardens/swales Established trees

Hand watering with hose & sprinkler

Area overhead watered with a sprinkler attached to a hose

Cheap Simple; few moving parts Flexible; use/move as needed Can water a fairly large area

depending on sprinkler Good for delicate plants,

seedlings Low water pressure not a

problem

Requires convenient spigots* Takes time; but could attach a

simple timer Wets foliage – need to water

in early a.m. Have to replace sprinklers

periodically

Zone 2 or 3 Just about any soil Native prairies/lawns

(establishment) Annual wildflower

meadows Mixed beds (grasses,

annuals, perennials)

Overhead watering with ‘rainbird’ type sprinkler

Area overhead watered with fixed rainbird sprinkler (or one attached to hose or quick-coupler)

Moderately inexpensive Moderately simple; durable Can water a large area,

including on hillsides Can be flexible (if attached to

hose)

Requires good water pressure May not get even coverage May damage delicate plants

Zone 2 or 3 Large areas (meadows;

prairies) Hillsides/slopes

Method Description Advantages Disadvantages Best Used for

Overhead watering with conventional fixed sprinklers

Area overhead watered by a conventional sprinkler system; may be fitted with low flow (water saving) heads

Relatively permanent Easy to connect to timers;

don’t need to be there to water

May already be in place May get good coverage

Expensive Requires installation Costs & time to maintain (e.g.,

broken pipes, etc) Not as flexible as hand

watering Requires sufficient water

pressure Heads/risers can be trip

hazard

Zone 3 Mowed lawns Tropical plants

Drip irrigation: conventional emitters

Emitters emit a trickle of water. They come in different sizes; larger sizes allow a higher flow of water. Emitters are placed at the root zone of individual plants or in pots.

Water efficient – water only applied where it’s needed

Water applied at slow enough rate to soak in

System can be covered with mulch

Relatively easy to install Foliage is kept dry Low water pressure is fine Fewer weeds – less area

watered

System has limited lifespan Moderately expensive

(depending on size of system) Regular maintenance;

emitters get plugged If mulch-covered can’t see

whether working properly Soil can become over-watered

leading to disease Tubes have to be staked down

or they move Tubes can be a trip hazard If too few emitters root

growth may be inhibited

Zone 1 & 2 Establishment of shrubs

(CSS & chaparral particularly)

Larger vegetables (tomatoes; melons)

Pots Berms Odd-shaped & narrow

areas Areas that cannot be

conventionally piped

Method Description Advantages Disadvantages Best Used for

Drip irrigation fitted with bubblers or pop-up micro-sprayers

Bubblers emit higher flows in a circular pattern (useful for irrigating shrubs and for filling basins around newly planted trees/shrubs Microsprays emit large droplets or fine streams of water just above the ground. They have higher flow rates than conventional emitters

Water efficient – water only applied where it’s needed

Water applied at slow enough rate to soak in

System can be covered with mulch

Relatively easy to install Foliage is kept dry (larger

plants) Can see the emitters, so can

monitor their function better than with conventional emitters

Foliage can be washed (some native like occasional summer spray)

Low water pressure is fine

Many of same disadvantages as conventional drip

Less water efficient than conventional drip

Maintenance; can over-pressure the system

Can’t put as many emitters on a line compared to conventional emitters

Zone 1 & 2 Establishment of shrubs

(coastal, CSS, chaparral & woodland)

Berms Odd-shaped & narrow

areas Areas that cannot be

conventionally piped

Soaker hose

Area is watered by porous hoses that emit water at a moderate rate. Hose may be covered with mulch

Low cost Easy to install Flexible; can install when &

where needed Moderate lifespan (3-5 years) More water-wise than spray

systems

Less water efficient than drip If mulch-covered can’t see

whether working properly Soil can become over-watered

leading to disease Hoses have to be staked down or

they move

Zones 1-3 (best 2 & 3) Vegetable gardens New shrubs/perennials Established trees & shrubs Tropical plants Wetland plants

* spigot or quick-coupler connect ** Water Zone 1 = no/very occasional irrigation / Water Zone 2 = occasional water (once every 3-4 weeks in summer) / Water Zone 3 = regular