Retail Industry News

Retail Industry News

http://news.apparelresources.com/retailers-news/

http://news.apparelresources.com/retailers-news/

2 StitchWorld

3 StitchWorld

4 StitchWorld

E D I T O R I A L

Deepak Mohindra Editor-in-Chief

Read and comment on my blog athttp://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com

www.apparelresources.com SEPTEMBER 2016 StitchWorld 7

The latest edition of GTE at Bangalore was quite a huddle affair. Most of the companies were represented by their senior managers like ITC, Texport Industries, Madura, and this is just tip of the long and impressive list of visitors. However, this does not mean that the owner-level visitation was missing. Right from Indian Designs, Golden Seams, Gokaldas Images (from Bangalore) to Sree Santosh Garments, Tirupur and Global Mode and Accessories, Delhi-NCR were represented by their owners, creating quite a buzz among the technology suppliers.

What emerged from the various discussions I had with many of them was that companies in Bangalore have created niches in their respective specialized categories based on product development as the growth engine. Also, most of the companies were happy with their growth and very upbeat of the future…

This was in contrast to the feedback I have been getting from exporters in Delhi-NCR, who have had a bad S/S ’16 season due to many reasons, among which the prime reason is the slowdown in Europe, resulting in even more demand for tighter prices… I have even heard that a company doing business of around Rs. 75 crore has lost a major account worth Rs. 50 crore because the buyer wanted a price reduction of around 20 per cent (US $ 3.25 to US$ 2.5) and has since shifted the orders to Vietnam.

Another very strong fact that emerged from my discussions at GTE was that very few exporters are willing to move out of their comfort zone, despite increasing cost of production in Bangalore. The farthest they are ready to go is to the border of Karnataka or coastal Andhra that too because the Government is pursuing them very pro-actively.

Technology providers believe that the migration into new states is a must for the garment industry to grow and many of them claim that they are supporting companies that are willing to make the move. Another strong point made by the stalwarts of the technology industry is that automation alone is not the answer to labour issues… They emphasize on the need to balance automation with motivation.

Also too much automation is not the solution, it has to be selective automation on those operations where replacing the labour makes sense. After all it is about replacing labour wages that cost ‘rupees per month’ as against western countries where the equation is ‘dollars per day’.

I was also happy to see the equally good response at the inaugural Gartex exhibition held at Pragati Maidan, Delhi. Though the fair was small and focused mainly on value-addition technology that too mostly digital printing with huge participation from all leading players, the attention it attracted was worth noticing. It only goes to show that digital printing is still an opportunity area for many.

An interesting comment from one of the participants that fascinated me, was that exhibiting at the iconic Pragati Maidan was a matter of prestige. In fact, the location was also partly responsible for the huge response… Good infrastructure no doubt adds value to an exhibition and the first-time professional efforts of the Gartex team was appreciated.

http://stitchworldmagazine.blogspot.com/

http://www.apparelresources.com/

15 StitchWorld


21

Stitc

hWor

ld


22 StitchWorld SEPTEMBER 2016 www.apparelresources.com

The wheel has come full circle, from bespoke to mass production to mass customization, and now back to somewhere between mass customization and bespoke. Various industries have customized their respective systems to woo consumers in a very personalized way, offering products made especially for them. Though it is a growing business model, it is difficult to implement and the most critical part is achieving the ‘perfect fit’. Team StitchWorld elucidates the process of achieving‘perfect fit’ of selected bespoke service providers…

High-end Savile Row fittings trickling down to your streets…

n the quest to corner theexclusive-wear seeker inIclothing, two similar systemsare prevailing in the market to serve the

customer. First is bespoke tailoring, which denotes clothing made entirely from measuring the individual, from pattern making, cutting fabric to tailoring and isa system of working on the exact specifications of the customer. The second one is made to measure– refers to clothing sewn from a standard-sized base patterninvolving less workmanship than bespoke tailoring because of the incorporation of standardization in the pattern making and manufacturing processes. Also,it can be manufactured in modular system.

Although the two concepts are technically different, in today’sfast-paced fashion requirement, the lines between made to measure and bespoke tailoring are getting finer. Bespoke is now relying on standardized patterns, trespassing its exclusivity of individually-cut patterns and also using technology for manufacturing, disseminating with the exclusive handcrafting of the product.The sewing process

Generic process followed for bespoke tailoring

bespoke is the latest buzz word for some big brands. In fact, many companies today are offering bespoke options and the numbers are growing.

To start visit store or browse websiteCustomers interested in bespoke tailored shirts, suits or blazers just need to visit the nearest Raymond’s made to measure store or to the nearest Van Heusen’s store or even log on to Van Heusen’s site. The brand provides custom tailoring for both men and women.A venture of Arvind, Creyate – a ‘bridge’ to luxury made to measure brand, offers its customers the indulgence of custom tailoringof shirts, suits, denims and chinos through Creyate customization studio. Customers can also browse through their website and book a home visit. It caters to both domestic and international markets, shipping custom-made clothes across USA, Middle East, Singapore, etc.

It’s My Life Jeans also provides bespoke tailoring in denim jeans.

– key differentiator of MTM and bespoke, is also fading away, as most of the bespoke tailoring service providers use modular system of manufacturing instead of the ‘make through system’ keeping in mind the average skill-level of operators and also to cut the hike in cost.

Off-the-rack vs. MTM and BespokeCatering well to ‘on-the-go’ generation, an off-the-rack suit may be the best option, but won’t necessarily be the best fit option. An off-the-rack suit is basically made keeping in mind the general measurements of the populace, using common dimensions.Whereas, a made-to-measure or bespoke suit will fit like a glove, as it will be made from exactmeasurements. When shopping for a suit, the customer may choose to be quick and take the easy route by buying off-the-rack or to make a customized one – a ‘just-for-them’ piece of art, personalized right down to the type of collar, cuff or lining that the wearer desires. In India, a country known to have grown on personalized tailoring,

TechTalk



Customers can browse through the website and book an appointment to get the measurements done or can visit their partner stores across the Delhi-NCR, Mumbai and Hyderabad. Either way the clothes are made based on individual measurements. Offering tailoring services ranging from shirts andpants to kurta-pyjama and Nehru jackets for men, and from shirts and blouses to lehenga and salwar kameez, for women, Tech-Tailor enables customers to schedule garment-technician’s visit at their doorstep.

Catering to the fashion sense of Indian middle-class segment, Poptailor provides bespoke tailoring of men’s shirts and trousers. Customer can browse through theirwebsite and personalize their look..., a modern take on the traditional neighbourhood master jee.

Selection of fabric… A personalized choiceAt Raymond, a customer is shown the fabric booklet which contains assortments of fabric pattern swatches, each with a unique code.Fashion consultants also assist the customer in creating a personalized style for his suit, trouser, shirt or jacket. Colour variants available for some swatches are also displayed in the booklet and have a unique code as well. A customer selects the fabric based on his interest. Choices for cufflinks and collars are also available at an extra cost. The customer care executive then checks the availability of the fabric and the colour chosen bythe customer in an online

database which is connected to the fabric mills in Bangalore.

However, a different approach is followed by Van HeusenMY FIT concept, where it starts the process with the customer’s measurements. The customer then selects the fabric with a unique code from the fabric booklet past the measurement process.However, colour options are not available, though choices in sleeve, sleeve length, collars and cuffs are available.

With a wide range of over 1,500 internationally sourced fabrics and many options of trims displayed on its website, Creyate allows its customers to create a garment for themselves from a numberof choices in collars, cuffs, pockets, buttons, hems and plackets. Customers can also get their customized clothing

monogrammed. Creyate, also allows the wearer to makea choice from different fits available, viz. Regular Fit, Tailored Fit and Slim Fit. At the studio, the customer is shown the swatch booklet which comprises fabric swatches with a unique code.

At IML, a customer can choose from a wide range of fabrics sourced from the best mills in India, Italy, Spain, Japan, Turkey and US, and also trims right from the colour of thread, to buttons and rivets and the type of stitches they wanton their tailored jeans. The customers can also decide for monogramming, embroideries and types of washes they may desire for their jeans.

At Tech-Tailor, customers can select their style from the e-catalogue available orcan simply upload their style

image for reference. They can select fabric of their choice from fabric swatches sourced from best Indian mills; there is also an option to provide their own fabric. Also, customers can choose from different types of fittings.Poptailor procures fabric from Siyaram, Raymond, Arvind Mills, and other well established mills in the international markets... Offering a total of 10 customization options incollar, cuffs, placket, pocket, hem, sleeves, piping, fit, embroidery and yoke, the bespoke tailoring service provider’s unique 3D design studio lets customers design their own apparels to their taste. The customer, if he/ she desires, can also choose material/colour contrast for different parts; moreover

“People never get their right fit and eventually have to get their clothes altered. IML not only designs a product which ages with you but also celebrates your life, your personality and your choices.”– Aditya Singhal, CEO and Founder, IML Jeans

“Tech-Tailor is one of the most trusted tailoring doorstep delivery servicesin the country. We offer our services not only in India butinternationally also in Denmark, Sweden & Australia.”– Premjeet Singh, Founder,Tech-Tailor

“Poptailor provides its customers with unbridled passion for perfection. It poses as the ultimatedestination for perfect fit, personalized designs and curated fabrics.”– Ankit Rajput, Co- Founder, Poptailor

Tech

Talk


25 StitchWorld


It’s My Life Jeans Co.Formerly a finishing agents’ manufacturer, Aditya Singhal, CEO and Founder, IML Jeans, ventured into bespoke tailoring of jeans in 2011 to express his love and understanding for jeans. IML completely re-engineered the whole process of jeans construction to provide ultimate fitto customers after surveying 1,000 men and women.“People never get their right fit and eventually get their clothes altered. IML not only designs a product which ages with you but also celebrates your life, your personality and your choices,” says Aditya.

Unique Feature: IML surprises the customer with the ‘Surprise You’ lining where they place some funky linings in the tailored jeans. It also embroiders the customer’s name and initials on the jeans with the computerized embroidery machine.

Tech-TailorPremjeet Singh, Founder, Tech-Tailor, believes that Tech-Tailor is one of the most trusted tailoring doorstep delivery services in the country. Their highly trained tailors and on-time delivery ensure that the garment altered or stitched is exactly the way customer wants it. “Tech-Tailor offers its services not only in India but internationally also in Denmark, Sweden & Australia,” informs Premjeet.

Unique Feature: Tech-Tailor provides the option of 72 hours express delivery for quick orders.

PoptailorAimed at providing uncompromised quality for those who only benchmark perfection, Poptailor addresses the problems of ill-fittings and the desire of perfect fit. Ankit Rajput, a young and enthusiastic, Co-Founder, Poptailor believes, “Poptailor provides their customers with unbridled passion for perfection. It poses as the ultimate destination for perfect fit, personalized designs and curated fabrics.”

Unique Feature: This technology-driven fashion company offers a unique proposition by offering 3D design studio dynamic in nature allowing customers to interact while designing. It allows the customers to create their personal environment, e.g. skin tone; matching trousers are manufactured to get that one perfect fit suiting their individual preferences.

record body specifications. In India, conventional method of measurement tape is applied for measuring while for customers abroad a bodyscanner is installed. Tech-Tailor maintains anthropometric database and algorithmsto generate suitable fit for customers in differentgeographies. In India, they also have an option for the customer to send their best fit garment with free pick up.

After personalizing his/ her wear, the customer can book visit of an ‘outfitter’on Poptailor’s website, who makes home visits to takemeasurements. Customers can also provide their best fit shirt measurements online. Once the outfitter takes the measurements, it is saved in the customer’s online profile. Customers can use the same profile for the next order.

Production adding the final touch…Bangalore seems to be the preferred manufacturing base with Raymond, Van Heusen, Tech-Tailor’s and Creyate having factoriesin the city. Shirt orders for Raymond MTM aremanufactured at Celebration Apparels Ltd., and suitsand blazers orders are

manufactured at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. Both shirts and suits/blazers are manufactured through PBU system. After the recording of size and specifications, Van Heusen accelerates the measurements to Madura Bangalore online. The orders of Tech-Tailor are produced through modular systemof production. Individual patterns for custom fitted clothes are being made with the help of CAD at times. The unit encompasses a finishing unit as well in the premises.

For the manufacturing of tailored clothing at Creyate, all the patterns are made on CAD system which are then fed into the system for automated cutting at state- of- the art, tech-forward factory in the outskirts ofBangalore. Patterns to nearest fit are altered according to the measurements of the customer. Patterns come from Japan for suits, blazers, bandhgalas and formals. Italian production technology for shirts, denims and chinos with Japanese- certified MTM specialists give Creyate an edge.

Jeans orders for IML are manufactured at its production unit in Gurgaon in an assembly line system. Individual digitized patterns are made for every individual and cut in singleply through straight knife.

An operator doing PP spray finishing on jeans at IML Factory

Tech Talk



Operational and financial metrics are aplenty in the apparel industry…, most of which are a result of financial analysis and review after a typical month-end. As a result, the impact of process measurements on problem-solving is not in real-time and hence not as much effective. An organization can meet its operational goals by designing metrics that can be reviewed in a transparent manner either daily or hourly on the production floor.Anand Deshpande, Founder and CEO – Admaa Consulting, a specialist in Lean and Six Sigma consulting in the apparel, automotive, financial services and education sector, talks about the metrics and process of reviewing an apparel manufacturing unit’s production floor.

Operational Metrics – A ‘shopfloor dashboard review process’ in apparel industry

hey say in the managementparlance ;“If you cannotTmeasure, you cannot manage”.

Performance measures or KPI’s (Key Performance Indicators) are an outcome of management’s need to manage performance. Some KPI’s like output per day are the lagging indicators while some like cycle time are the leading indicators. A good factory scorecard consists of both lagging and leading indicators with a bias towards Operational Metrics. An example of leading indicators is cycle time, whereas an example of lagging indicator could be volume of goods produced daily.Success of the factory depends a lot on the quality and the quantity of metrics that are measured and frequency of their review on the production floor. If the factory meets production targets on an hourly basis it can meet monthly targets with ease.

Current scenario of performance measurement onapparel manufacturing shopfloorPerformance measurement on the shopfloor is typically limited

hour on an hourly basis can help address constraints immediately and ensure smoother production flow in the ensuing hours. Lean measurements are lesser compared to financial performance measures in an organization. Therefore, only a few measures help an organization to focus on Lean manufacturing and meet overall operational goals.

Group leaders and supervisors collect floor measurements on an hourly and daily basis. The focus is on detecting abnormalities from standards and take immediate actions to rectify any issues that prevent meeting of standards.The data is represented visually at the end of the line or in thevisual information centre, enabling transparency and problem-solving. Lean measurements help sustain Lean Culture in the organization. Sustenance of Lean Culture largely depends on Daily Accountability, Visual Management and Leader Standard Work.

Accidents Per DayThe accidents per day on the floor are depicted on the Safety Cross. The Safety Cross consists of 31 days of the month divided into the cross

to measuring output from some critical machines having sunrise and sunset meetings within teams and rounding off the day with priorities for the next day. Some factories do have a visual metric dashboard but metrics are usually not reviewed on an hourly basis. Hourly measurement ofperformance and its review on the production floor facilitate problem solving and play an important role in improving the flow throughthe constraint.

SQDCME Visual DashboardShopfloor success is supplemented by creating visual dashboards that display the trend of important metrics over a period of time. These metrics are either measured daily or on an hourly basis and review of the same serves to institutionalize a problem-solving culture in the organization. Table 1 summarizes the dashboard metrics under various SQDCME elements of production management.

The review frequency of the metric depends on its impact on the floor performance. Review of jobs per

TechTalk



35

Stitc

hWor

ld



mixed-cut, clockwise and anticlockwise, it can be displaced crosswise. It has the ability to manage, convert and transform all kinds of notches,i.e. normal, V-notch and fly notch, allowing the operator to change the bite size, if needed. A re-sealer can be used to avoid vacuum losses.The blower system holds the material firmly in place during the cutting process delivering cut parts that are accurateto ply. The blade monitoring system detects the abrasion of the blade and automatically stops working needing replacement. It can change the radius of patterns at corners, suggesting that the knife goes up if there is a sharp corner which eventually increasesthe cutting quality and is considered a very efficient feature for suit manufacturers. It resumes cutting from hibernation if any kind of disturbance persists.

MC 80-70 with Intelligent Knife SystemThis special CNC operates at the speed of 80 m/min with a cutting height up to 0.08 metres. The fabric cutting width available isfrom 1.6 metres to 2.6 metres. MC 80-70 comes with an intelligent knife system which senses deflection of theknife while cutting high-ply spreads and changes the knife angle to compensate for the deflection. It results in more accurately cut parts and nest parts closer together to

achieve outstanding material utilization. The Lateral Travel Kit in this CNC cutter enables the cutter to move between multiple spreading tables.MC 80-70 is designed to cool down the knife with a vortex tube to reduce fusing between plies while cutting.

MC 50-30 cuts ply height as low as0.03 metreConveyorized automatic fabric cutting machine MC 50-30 cuts at the speed of 80 m/min with a cutting height of 0.03 m-0.05 m. The fabric cutting width available isfrom 1.6 metres to 2.8 metres.Its long lasting bristles allow the knife to penetratewithout damaging the fabric. Ensuring quality in cut parts from top to bottom ply, its automatic knife re-sharpening eliminates hanging threads. The machine includes a user- friendly keypad which controls functioning of the cutting head. Additionally, software and operating manuals are available in Turkish, English and other foreign languages.Manufacturing the machines in Europe ensures the quality of the parts and guarantees that the product parts will not fail untimely. The company has already installed two full cutting rooms and will exhibit the same as the showroom for other perspective clients. Their reasonable pricing and the ability to customize their products give this company an edge over others inIndian market!

MC 80-70 cuts upto 0.08m high ply

MC 50-30 cuts at speed of 80m/min

Automatic knife re-sharpening eliminates hanging threads ensuring quality cut parts from top to bottom ply

MC 80-70 CNC cutter fabric is incorporated with an Intelligent Knife System which senses deflection of the knife while cutting high-ply spreads and changes the knife’s angle to compensate for the deflection. Common for all automatic cutters of Serkon Makina, there is a user- friendly keypad which controls many machine’s functions at the cutter.

Tech

Review


Thanks for watchingFor more interesting updates

like these visit @

